BNBSB1214B

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© 2014 Kalmbach Publishing Co. This material may not be reproduced inany form without permission from the publisher.

December 2014 1

HERRINGBONE / WIREWORK

Cascadingfloral bracelet

Embark on a creative journey

using the 2015 Bead&ButtonShow commemorative beadto create a multifacetedflowing design.

by Cassie Donlen

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2

Cassie Donlen is an

associate editor at

Bead&Button. Contact her at

[email protected]

Materialsbracelet 8¼ in. (21 cm)

• 1 2015 Bead&Button Show commemora-

tive bead by Andrea Guarino-Slemmons

(www.BeadAndButton.com/showbead)

• 18 g 110 seed beads (Miyuki 9458-TB,

metallic iris brown)

• 14 2 mm round beads, sterling silver

• 6 x 1 in. (15 x 2.5 cm) 20-gauge (0.8 mm)

silver sheet metal, dead soft

(www.monsterslayer.com)

• silver wire, round, dead soft

- 7 in. (18 cm) 14 gauge (1.6 mm)

- 5 in. (13 cm) 16 gauge (1.3 mm)

• 16 2½ in. (6.4 cm) 22-gauge ball-end

head pins, fine silver(www.missficklemedia.etsy.com)

• 6 18-gauge 4.5 mm silver jump rings

• 1 12 x 12 mm 2-strand toggle clasp

(www.monsterslayer.com)

• Fireline 6 lb. test

• beading needles, #11 or #12

• fine-tip permanent marker

• 2 pairs of chainnose, flatnose, and/or

bentnose pliers

• 1.25 mm metal hole-punch pliers

• roundnose pliers

• wire cutters• 2 hammers (chasing and light utility)

• center punch

• dapping set with block

• disc cutter set

• steel bench block or anvil

Online Beading Basicswww.BeadAndButton.com/basics

• herringbone stitch: tubular

• ladder stitch: making a ladder, forming

a ring

• ending and adding thread

• opening and closing loops and jump rings

• wrapped loop

Base

1 The base is formed from two identical

sections of tubular herringbone that

have been flattened to form a double

layer. On a comfortable length of thread,

pick up four 110 seed beads, leaving a

20-in. (51 cm) tail. Sew through all the

beads again, and form them into two

stacks of two beads each. Working intwo-bead ladder stitch, pick up two

110s, sew through the previous stack

of beads, and continue through the

two 110s just picked up to form a new

stack. Continue working in two-bead

ladder stitch until you have 18 stacks

of two beads each. Form the ladder

into a ring.

2 Working off the ladder and using

110s, work in tubular herringbone stitch

for 41 rounds. End and add thread as

needed. If the working thread is less

than 20 in. (51 cm) after the final round,

end the thread and start a new thread

that is 2 ft. (61 cm) long.

3 Flatten the tube to create two layers.

There should be nine columns on each

side with the working thread and tail

located in the same column (either

layer) of an outer edge.

4 Pick up six 110s, and sew through the

top two 110s in the corresponding col-

umn on the opposite side (photo a).

Continue through the adjacent top

Difficulty rating

c

e

a b

d

two 110s in the next column. Repeat

these stitches for the next two columns

to create three loops. Retrace the

thread path of the loops several times.

5 Sew through the top edge 110s

in the next three columns (same side

as your working thread), and repeat

step 4 on the remaining three columns

(photo b). End the working threadand tail.

6 Repeat steps 4–5 using the tail for

the other end of the base.

7 Repeat steps 1–6 to make another

base section.

Wire components

1 Cut four 13 ⁄ 4-in. (4.4 cm) pieces of

14-gauge round wire. On a bench

block, use a chasing hammer to flatten

approximately ¼ in. (6 mm) at one end

of each piece of wire (photo c).

2 With the tips of a roundnose pliers,

grasp the flattened end of a piece of

wire, and rotate to form a small loop

(photo d). Repeat for the other three

wire pieces, and set aside.

3 Use a disc cutter and utility hammer

to punch 12 15 ⁄ 64 in. (6 mm) discs (small),

12 5 ⁄ 16 in. (8 mm) discs (medium), and

two 3 ⁄ 8 in. (1 cm) discs (large) from

20-gauge silver sheet (photo e).

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3

f

i

g

j

l

h

k

m

no disc cutter?Order the discs precut in 22 gauge

(6.4 mm, 8.0 mm, and 9.5 mm) at

www.riogrande.com

4 Use a marker to identify the center

on each disc, and use hole-punching

pliers to make a hole (photo f).5 Place each disc on a bench block,

and use a center punch and utility

hammer to texture one side of each

disc (photo g).

6 Place each disc, textured side up, in

the corresponding dome of a dapping

block, and use doming punches to

create a concave dome (photo h).

no doming block?No worries — just opt to keep the

discs flat.

7 On a head pin, string a large disc,

and make a wrapped loop. Repeat to

create dangles with the second large

disc, six of the medium discs, and eight

of the small discs (photo i).

Clasp

1 Open two 4.5 mm jump rings, slide

one through each loop on the toggle

ring, and close the rings.

2 Slide a 14-gauge wire component

(from steps 1–2 of “Wire components”)

through three of the seed bead loops

on one end of a bracelet base and the

two jump rings attached to the toggle

ring. Continue through the remaining

three seed bead loops (photo j).

3 If needed, trim the wire so that only7 ⁄ 16 in. (1.1 cm) is exposed from the

edge of the last beaded loop. Work as

in steps 1–2 of “Wire components” to flat-

ten this end and form a loop (photo k).

This loop should face the same direc-

tion as the first one.

4 Repeat step 1 with the toggle bar, but

add a second pair of 4.5 mm jump rings

to each loop on the toggle bar. Con-

tinue with steps 2–3 to attach the toggle

bar to one end of the other base.

Assembly

1 Cut a 5-in. (13 cm) piece of 16-gauge

round wire, and make a wrapped loop

on one end. Slide the commemorative

bead onto the wire, and make another

wrapped loop (photo l).

2 Lay the base flat on a hard surface,

and slide a 14-gauge wire component

through the outer seed bead loop on

the remaining end of a herringbone

base. String a medium and a small disc

dangle onto the wire, and slide the wire

metalworking Learn how to use a disc cut-

ter and doming block at www.

artjewelrymagazine/videos.

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through the second loop. String a small

disc dangle onto the wire, and slide the

wire through the third loop.

3 String a small disc dangle, a loop

from the lampwork bead, and a large

disc dangle onto the wire (photo m)

before sliding the wire through the next

loop. String a small disc dangle onto

the wire, and slide the wire through thesecond-to-last loop. String a small and

a medium disc dangle, and slide the

wire through the last loop (photo n).

4 If needed, trim the wire so that only7 ⁄ 16 in. (1.1 cm) is exposed from the

edge, and work as in steps 1–2 of

“Wire components” to flatten the wire

(photo o) and form a loop.

5 Repeat steps 2–4 on the second base.

Embellishments

1 On 1 yd. (.9 m) of thread and leavinga 6-in. (15 cm) tail, sew up through a her-

ringbone base about 3 ⁄ 16 in. (5 mm) from

n o

q r

To brush up on the basic tech-

niques referenced in this project, go

to www.BeadAndButton.com/basics.

p

the end where the clasp is attached.

Exit the center column. Pick up a med-

ium disc and a 2 mm round silver bead,

and sew back through the disc and the

base. Retrace the thread path.

2 Sew through the beadwork to exit

two columns over from where you

attached the medium disc. Pick up a

small disc and a 2 mm bead, and sewback through the disc and the base

(photo p). Retrace the thread path.

3 Work as in step 2 to add a small disc

on the other side of the medium disc

(photo q). End the working thread

and tail.

4 Repeat steps 1–3 on the second base.

5 Work as in steps 1–4 to add two

medium discs and two small discs for

embellishment next to the disc dangles

on each base. Position the discs asdesired to make them look as if they

are cascading or flowing away from the

focal bead (photo r).w

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