BIRD TRIP REPORT – ETHIOPIA 26/10 – 16/11/2010 · BIRD TRIP REPORT – ETHIOPIA 26/10 ......

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BIRD TRIP REPORT – ETHIOPIA 26/10 – 16/11/2010: - Tripreport, pictures and maps by: Bart De Keersmaecker - Contact me for more info at: [email protected] - Find my picture of this trip at: https://picasaweb.google.com/DeKeersmaeckerBart/EthiopiaBirdingtripOctoberNove mber2010# - Find my videos of this trip on Youtube: http://www.youtube.com/my_videos?feature=mhum Sites visited: Ghion Hotel garden – Ankober – Jenna river and escarpment – Debre Libanos – Lakes Chelekleka and Hora – Awash NP – Bilen lodge – Dinsho area – Bale Mountains – Negele area – Dawa river – Yabello and Mega area – Lake Awasa – Wondo Genet – Lake Langano and Abiata – Lake Ziway and Koka – Sululta plains. INTRODUCTION: As my brother Kris had made a very successful birdtrip to Ethiopia in 2005. I always regret that I wasn’t able to join him on that trip and wanted to make up for it. And in 2010 I got that chance and took it with both hands. Me and my brother both travelled with the same Dutch agency (http://www.stichtingvogelreizen.nl/ ). I also had a very good birdingtrip, largely because of a lot of extra info from some great tripreport and two brand new site guides that give an excellent description of the best birding areas of Ethiopia. In this tripreport I will try to describe the birdingareas I visited during my trip and based on my personal experiences. I hope many independent birders will find some useful and up to date info in this report. Good luck & enjoy your birdtrip in Ethiopia, Bart ITINERARY: - Day 1: 26/10/2010: Flight Amsterdam – Karthoum (Sudan) – Addis Ababa. Night at Ghion hotel in Addis. - Day 2: 27/10/2010: Bird Ghion hotelgarden. Drive Addis – Debre Birham – Ankober Escarpment. Birding at Ankober. Night @ Eva Hotel Debre Birham

Transcript of BIRD TRIP REPORT – ETHIOPIA 26/10 – 16/11/2010 · BIRD TRIP REPORT – ETHIOPIA 26/10 ......

BIRD TRIP REPORT – ETHIOPIA 26/10 –16/11/2010:

- Tripreport, pictures and maps by: Bart De Keersmaecker - Contact me for more info at: [email protected]

- Find my picture of this trip at:

https://picasaweb.google.com/DeKeersmaeckerBart/EthiopiaBirdingtripOctoberNovember2010#

- Find my videos of this trip on Youtube:

http://www.youtube.com/my_videos?feature=mhum Sites visited: Ghion Hotel garden – Ankober – Jenna river and escarpment – Debre Libanos – Lakes Chelekleka and Hora – Awash NP – Bilen lodge – Dinsho area – Bale Mountains – Negele area – Dawa river – Yabello and Mega area – Lake Awasa – Wondo Genet – Lake Langano and Abiata – Lake Ziway and Koka – Sululta plains. INTRODUCTION: As my brother Kris had made a very successful birdtrip to Ethiopia in 2005. I always regret that I wasn’t able to join him on that trip and wanted to make up for it. And in 2010 I got that chance and took it with both hands. Me and my brother both travelled with the same Dutch agency (http://www.stichtingvogelreizen.nl/). I also had a very good birdingtrip, largely because of a lot of extra info from some great tripreport and two brand new site guides that give an excellent description of the best birding areas of Ethiopia. In this tripreport I will try to describe the birdingareas I visited during my trip and based on my personal experiences. I hope many independent birders will find some useful and up to date info in this report. Good luck & enjoy your birdtrip in Ethiopia, Bart ITINERARY:

- Day 1: 26/10/2010: Flight Amsterdam – Karthoum (Sudan) – Addis Ababa. Night at Ghion hotel in Addis.

- Day 2: 27/10/2010: Bird Ghion hotelgarden. Drive Addis – Debre Birham – Ankober

Escarpment. Birding at Ankober. Night @ Eva Hotel Debre Birham

- Day 3: 28/10/2010: Drive Debre Birham – Jenna Escarpment and Jenna River. Camp

@ Jenna River Valley.

- Day 4: 29/10/2010: Bird Jenna River Valley and drive to Escarpment and onwards to Debre Libanos. Birding in the forest. Drive to Addis and night @ Ghion hotel Addis.

- Day 5: 30/10/2010: Bird Ghion Hotelgarden. Drive Debre Zeit – bird Lake

Chelekleka and Lake Hora. Drive to Nazret – Lake Beseka – Awash NP. Stay @ Awash Waterfall lodge.

- Day 6: 31/10/2010: Early morning birding near Awash Waterfall lodge – bird

southern plains of Awash NP towards Kereyou Lodge. Bird Kudu Valley in Northern part Awash NP. Drive to Bilen lodge. Stay @ Bilen Lodge.

- Day 7: 01/11/2010: Bird Bilen Lodge area. Drive to Lake Beseka - Nazret and on to

Asela. Stay @ hotel in Asela.

- Day 8: 02/11/2010: Long drive Asela – Dinsho. Bird Dinsho area and drive on to Goba. Stay @ Wabe Shebelle hotel in Goba.

- Day 9: 03/11/2010: Bird hotel garden. Drive to Dinsho HQ and bird here. Bird marsh

near Dinsho and drive back to hotel in Goba.

- Day 10: 04/11/2010: Drive to Bale Mountains and birding the Sanetti Plateau. Later birding along road Goba – Bale Mountains. Stay @ Wabe Shebelle hotel in Goba.

- Day 11: 05/11/2010: Drive Goba – Sanetti Plateau – Harena forest – Dolo Mena –

Genale river – Negele. Camp near Negele.

- Day 12: 06/11/2010: Bird camp area. Drive Negele – Liben plains and search for Sidamo Lark. Bird area south of Liben plains. Camp near Negele.

- Day 13: 07/11/2010: drive very early towards Wadera. Bird Wadera and search for

Ruspoli’s Turaco. Drive back to junction and bird here. Bird along entrance road towards camp.

- Day 14: 08/11/2010: Bird camp area and drive Negele – Dawa river (birdingstops) –

Wachile – Soda – Yabello. Stay @ Yabello Motel.

- Day 15: 09/11/2010: Bird area near Motel. Bird area between Yabello and Mega. Stay @ Yabello Motel.

- Day 16: 10/11/2010: Bird area bear Motel. Bird hills and bushland along road Yabello

– Konso. Birding at dusk for nightjars along road Yabello – Arero. Stay @ Yabello Motel.

- Day 17: 11/11/2010: Birding at dawn at 10-15km south of Yabello. Drive Yabello –

Dila – Lake Awassa. Stay @ Wabe Shebelle lodge Lake Awassa.

- Day 18: 12/11/2010: Birding the fishmarket and woodland at Lake Awassa. Drive to Shasemene - Wondo Genet. Birding valley North of hotel Wondo Genet. Stay @ Wabe Shebelle Wondo Genet.

- Day 19: 13/11/2010: Birding eastern valley at Wondo Genet. Drive to Lake Langano.

Stay @ Sabana beach resort.

- Day 20: 14/11/2010: Birding the Southern and Southeast shore of Lake Langano. Stay @ Sabana beach resort.

- Day 21: 15/11/2010: Birding Lake Abiata. Drive to Lake Ziway and Koka Dam and

birdstops here. Drive to Addis and stay @ Ghion Hotel.

- Day 22: 16/11/2010: Bird Ghion hotelgarden. Drive to Sululta plains and birding. Drive back to hotel and later on to the airport. Flight back Addis – Karthoum – Amsterdam.

LOGISTICS: References:

- Lieven Temmerman: Birdwatching trip report Ethiopia: 8/10 –02/11/2009

(an excellent and very useful tripreport for independent birders)

- Jan Vermeulen: Tripreport Ethiopia: October 1999

(a bit outdated but still has some good info)

- Where to watch birds in Ethiopia door Claire Spottiswood, Merid Gabremichael en Julian Francis

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Where-Watch-Ethiopia-Claire-Spottiswoode/dp/1408130750/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1292004741&sr=1-1-fkmr1

- A Birdwatchers guide Birding Ethiopia: Birding Ethiopia, A birdwatching guide

to the country's birding sites by Ken Behrens, Keith Barnes, Christian Boix (Lynx Editions)

http://www.lynxeds.com/product/birding-ethiopia http://www.jvw.nl/alle-landen-ethiopie-natuurgidsen-c-1_140_2666/birdwatchers-guide-birding-ethiopia-p-46823

(These are two excellent and very good birdbooks that describe the best birdingsites in great detail)

Local Agency: Driver + guide:

- During this birdtrip Red Jackal was our local ground agent. They arranged all of the logistics in Ethiopia: the drivers, 4x4’s, local sideguide, local birdguides, accommodation, picknick, campingsite + camping-equipment.

- They were very well organized and have a lot of experience with birdtrips. We

experienced no logistical problems. And the guide and drivers were all very professional, very warm and friendly, helpful, interested in birds and birding although their not experienced birders and they all spoke good to very good English and several local languages.

- Our Ethiopian sideguide Tesfa is a great guy and although he’s not a real birdguide, he

still has a lot of experience as he has joined many birdtrips as a sideguide. He is a great communicator and excellent in arranging local birdguides, getting up to date info from locals about birdsites, targetbirds, fruitingtrees, state of the road etc….. He also arranges the local accommodation and is extremely handy at the chaotic Yabello Motel. Were he seemed to be the only person who was determined to get us our diner and breakfast. He’s also a wonderful and very bright person, with a great sense of humor and is great company. He also knows a lot about local history and has guided many historical tours throughout Ethiopia.

- Our two drivers Tazo and Tezera our excellent and experienced drivers.

- I’m very grateful for there great service and highly recommend Red Jackal, our site

guide Tesfa and drivers Tazo and Tezera.

- http://www.redjackal.net/

BIRDING AREAS: GHION HOTELGARDEN: ADDIS ADABA:

- The large garden of this hotel in the city centre of Addis Ababa is a very good place to spend a couple of birding hours. And it gives a very good introduction to the highland species of Ethiopia. That included several endemics. Common birds are: Hooded Vulture, Sacred- and Wattled Ibis, White-Collared Pigeon, Red-eyed Dove, Dusky Turtle Dove, Tacazze Sunbird, Abyssinian Slaty Flycatcher, Ruppel's Robin Chat, Mountain Thrush, Brown-Rumped – and Streaky Seedeater, Abyssinian White-eye, Dusky Flycatcher, Slender-Billed Starling, Yellow-Billed Kite, Thick-Billed Raven. Rarer birds are Abyssinian Woodpecker, Brown Parisoma, Greater Spotted-Eagle and Lanner Falcon. At the 2 entrances of the park are small bridges over small smelly rivers. Here Grey Wagtail, a pair of African Black Duck and the Brown Parisoma was found.

- I don’t think that it’s a problem for birdwatchers that are not staying at the Ghion hotel itself to visit and bird this park. As there are many locals that visit the park and have a drink at the bar and restaurant in the middle of the park (Unity House).

- Accommodation: Ghion Hotel or other nearby hotels (plenty of chose).

- More info at: http://www.ghionhotel.com.et/

ANKOBER ESCARPMENT:

- This is the site for the endemic and very local Ankober Serin. This site is close to the town of Debre Birham, and about 30 km east of town. After passing a Eucalyptus forest you will see an obvious escarpment rising above a bend in the road. In this bend is a small stream and many ploughed fields. These fields are full of small birds, mainly seedeaters and Black-Headed Siskins. But also Abyssinian Longclaws and the main target Ankober Serin. The best plan is to follow the small stream up the mountain and scan the fields and groups of seedeaters. Many small birds come to drink at the stream and Ankober Serin may join them. Only one person in my group was lucky enough the find these tricky birds. As they are very dull and similar to Streaky Seedeater they are easily overlooked. If you can’t find the serins in the fields continue walking up to the Escarpment. And then follow the escarpments edge to the right. This area is good for Geladas. Bird the area between the rocks and the upper fields. There are large groups

of Black-Headed Siskins that may hold Ankober serin. Erlanger’s- and Thekla larks are also here. Further along the escarpment you can find Erckel’s Francolin and flyby Black Eagles, Augur Buzzard, Rufous-Chested Sparrowhawk and Lanner Falcons.

- Accommodation: Debre Birham is close by and the local Eva Hotel is pretty good and serves good food. An other option is to stay at the Ankober Lodge.

- More info at: http://www.ankoberlodge.com.et/

JENNA RIVER & ESCARPMENT:

- The Jenna River and its Escarpment are further north of Debre Birham, near the town of Lemi or Lomi Ketima (not sure about this name???)

Jenna Escarpement:

- When driving North along this road you will see the Escarpments edge close to the road, just beyond the junction. (N° 7 on map) This is a very good area to search for birds of rocky areas like: White-Winged – and Mocking-Cliff Chats, Ruppel’s Blackchat, Erckel’s Francolin, White-Billed Starling, Hemprich’s Hornbill, Red-Collared Widowbird, Klaas’s Cuckoo and Cinnamon-Breasted Bunting.

- When descending the escarpment towards the Jenna River there are some nice birding areas along the many hairpin bends. (N° 6 on map) This area is good for White-throated Seedeater, Ortolan Bunting, Hemprich’s Hornbill, Erlanger’s Lark, White- Billed Starling, Abyssinian Black Wheatear, African Silverbill, Siffling- and Singing Cisticola and Ankober Serin has also been seen here (But I didn’t find them here).

- A bit further down there is a small gorge on the left. Check the cliffs for Fox Kestrel. (N° 5 on map)

Jenna River:

- This is the site for Harwood’s Francolin. This difficult and very local bird can be found in the reedbeds along the Jenna River. To find this bird and to reach the reedbeds it lives in you have to first find the small bridge across a usually dry riverbed about 5-600m before the large bridge across the Jenna River. (N° 4 on map) It’s less the 1 km before the main river. The bridge area is good for Speckle-Fronted Weaver, Fox’s Kestrel and Red-Collared Widowbird. When going down towards the main river, start following the dry riverbed right from the road. Best time to located the Francolin is early morning when it’s calling, feeding in the field close to the reedbeds. (N) 1 on map) before the first locals arrive at the fields. Then you reach a side river that may hold some water. But you may be able to wade through here or go bare food. The reedbeds are close by. At dawn and dusk Freckled Nightjar and Four-Banded Sandgrouse have been seen in the area of the dry riverbed by other birders.

- Close to the river was our Campsite. (N° 3 on map). Slender-Tailed Nightjar was

calling here at dawn. In the Sorgumfield you can find Northern Red- and Black- Winged Bishops. From the large metal bridge across the Jemma river you can see Senegal Thicknee, Wire-Tailed Swallow, Hemprich’s Hornbill, Mocking Cliff-Chat, Gaint- and Pied Kingfisher, Osprey and Pied Wagtail. A little bit further on the other side of the river is a small dirt track following the river and passing some large trees. (N° 2 on map) This is a good area for Blue-Breasted Bee-eater, Familiar Chat, Black- Billed Barbet, Crimson-Rumped Waxbill, Village Indigobird, Foxy Cisticola Cut- Throat and Red-Fronted Tinkerbird. The trail then goes up a small valley and on to the low hills and the Sorgumfields. A mixed flock of hundreds of swallows roosted here.

- Accommodation: Campsite near the Jennariver. (N° 3 on map)

DEBRE LIBANOS:

- Debre Libanos is a very famous monastery and close by is a nice forest and impressive gorge.

- The gorge offers a very nice view and is especially good for raptors and vultures. You

can see Black Eagle, Steppe- and Tawny Eagle, Bearded Vulture, Ruppel’s Griffon Vulture and White – Backed Vulture. There are also groups of Geledas here.

- Walk right from the entrance of the monastery to reach the forest. Cross the small dry rivervalley near the broken bridge and follow the trail in to the forest. A bit further are good fruiting trees with White-Cheeked Turacos and Mountain Orioles. There are also nice bird flocks with Montane White-eye, White-Rumped Babbler . Little Rock Thrush and Abyssinian Woodpecker can also be found. You can follow the trail to the left and explore the forest.

- There may be locals near the entrance of the monastery that want to guide you into the

forest for a small fee. But they are not birdguides and not useful.

- Accommodation: easy to visit during a day trip from Addis or when coming from the Jenna Valley.

LAKE CHELEKLEKA:

- This is a large shallow and marshy lake near the town of Debre Zeit / Bisoftu To reach the lake you have to turn left when entering Debre Zeit / Bisoftu when coming from Addis. When you enter the town you will see a large factory on the left side, possibly with Chinese signs on it. Drive past this building and turn left when you see a sign saying “ Ethiopian Dutch Furniture”. Follow this road for a will, maybe 1 or 2km until you can see the lake on the left. Try to find a small road towards the lakes shore, there is one just next to the property of the “Ethiopian Dutch Furniture”. Walk to the lakes shore and scan the lake from the small dikes. The lake is very good for waterfowl, waders, grebes, herons, terns, gulls, pelicans, ibises, raptors, rails, Kingfishers, warblers, cormorants and storks. Search the reedbeds and lillyponds for African Pygmy-Goose and White Backed Duck. Common- and Black Crowned Crane can also be present. Check the small fields for Quailfinches, Waxbills, African Silverbill and African Citril.

LAKE HORA:

- This Crater Lake just outside Debre Zeit / Bisoftu. And you can reach it by turning left at a roundabout in the centre of town. There’s probably a sign. A bit further along this road you turn left at the sign and drive down to the lakes shore. The lake itself is pretty boring. With only some Little Grebes, White-Breasted Cormorants and ducks. Beyond the bar and other small buildings a trail follows the lakes shore to the left. The riverine woodland is more interesting for forest birds. With Blue-Breasted Bee-eater, Black- Billed Barbet, Red-Fronted Tinkerbird, Grey-Headed Woodpecker, Black-Winged Lovebird, Ruppel’s Robin Chat, Banded Barbet and possibly also Spotted Creeper. The trail goes on for a will along the shore and this site is good for a couple of hours of birding when travelling from Addis towards Nazret and Awash NP.

AWASH NATIONAL PARK:

- More info at: http://save-awash-national-park.com/park.html

Southern part Awash NP:

- The southern part of the Awash NP can be reached by the main entrance along the main road. The grasslands are good for Northern Carmine Bee-eaters, Pygmy Falcons, Shrikes, Chestnut-Backed- and Black-Crowned Sparrow-Larks, Black- Chested Snake-Eagle, Rosy-Patched Bushshrike, Heuglin’s Courser and Grey-Headed Batis. Other have had Secretary bird, Chestnut-Bellied and sometimes Four-Banded Sandgrouse (along the road). Singing Bushlarks, Scissor – Tailed Kite, Grasshopper Buzzard and Abdims Storks. The area is very good for bustards with 6 species. Kori Bustard is often common on the open plains, Buff-Crested Bustard (between the bushes) and the rarer White-Bellied-, Black-Bellied and Hartlaub’s Bustard. Arabian

Bustard is easier outside of the park near the Bilen lodge. But we only had some Buff-Crested Bustards and not even one Kori.

- Best time to search the open plains is of course during early morning and late afternoon. Because birdactivity is lowest during the heat of the day.

- The lush riverine woodland along the Awash river at the Gotu campsite is also very good for birding with White-Billed Buffalo-Weaver, Bruce’s Green-Pigeon and many others. Especially during early morning, but may still be good during the hottest hours.

- A good place to stay is the Awash Waterfall lodge. The bushes around the lodge hold many small birds, as firefinches and Purple Grenadier. The area of the Awash river and waterfalls is good for Little Sparrowhawk, Olive Beeeaters. It’s not possible to go out on your own at night or before 6 in the morning. Because Lions sometimes visit the area. So a local guard joined us during our evening and early morning walkes and we gave him a small fee. We heard calling Slender-Tailed Nightjars and had great views African Scops-Owl. We also found tracks here of Leopard.

- The best areas for the birds of the open are the Illala Sala plains between the HQ and the Kereyou lodge. So focus on those tracks in the early morning. Two Scissor-Tailed Kites were seen here recently. These plains are also very good for mammals as: Beisa Oryx, Soemmerring’s Gazelle, Salt’s Dikdik, Common Warthog, Black-Backed and Common Jackal.

- Accommodation: - Awash Waterfall lodge: very nice place to stay just above the waterfalls. Nice clean

and new rooms and good food.

- An other possibility would be to camp at the Gotu campsite in the lush riverine woodland along the Awash river. But there are no facilities (I think, maybe near the HQ???). And there are Vervet Monkeys and Baboons that could destroy you’re tent. So take care if you camp here or always take your tents with you when birding.

- The Kereyou Lodge with its very old caravans is no longer open for business. At least

that’s what our guides told us. But you can still go there to look down the impressive gorge.

Kudu Valley Awash NP:

- This is a wooded valley in the Northern part of the Awash National Park. You can only enter the northern part of this park if you take an armed ranger with you. This can be arranged at the main entrance of the park along the mainroad. The first part of

gravel road into this part of the park goes trough dry woodland that has been badly and illegally overgrazed by goats. The ranger is not there to protect you from dangerous mammals but because the local herdsmen who are armed don’t like visitors that much. But it’s a save place to go. The dry woodland is good for: Sulphur-Breasted Bush- Shrike, White-Crested Helmed Shrike, Eastern Paradise-Widow, Grey-Headed Bushshrike, Purple Grenadier, Crested Francolin, Blue-Naped Mousebird, Striped Kingfisher, Little Beeeater, Abyssinian Scimitarbill and Black-Billed Wood Hoopoe. The Kudu valley has large acacia woodlands around small pools. This very good area to bird during the heat of the day, when it’s dead on the open plains. There are lots of Helmeted Guineafowl, Yellow-Throated Spurfowl, Orange-Breasted Parrot, Common Cuckoo and Grey-Headed Woodpecker. There are also Olive- and Anubis Baboons. The dry woodland holds: Mouse-Coloured Penduline Tit, Yellow-Bellied Eremomela, Northern Crombec, Grey-Headed Batis, Rufous Chatterer, Buffy-Bellied Warbler and an overhead Martial Eagle.

Sombre Rock Chat site: Lava fields Lake Beseka:

- The lavafields right next to the road from Nazret to Awash NP next to Lake Beseka are a very good place for Sombre Rock Chat. This very local bird is found in the lavafields north of the road, when you just crossed the lake for the first time. Park along the road about 2-300m after crossing the lake and walk up the lavafields north of the road. There is a sort of trail going into the fields. Take great care, when walking the lavafields because the lava is extremely sharp!!! So no sandals!!! Scan the small bushes and rocky outcrops. We easily found 3-4 Sombre Rock Chats. But also the very similar Blackstart, Stroilated Bunting, Cinnamon Breasted Bunting, Northern Crombec, Mouse-Coloured Penduline-Tit, Isabelline Wheataer and Yellow-Bellied Eremomela. The Sombre Rock Chats can be distinguished from Blackstarts by their larger size, larger bill and eyes and the spotted undertail coverts.

- Lake Beseka is pretty birdless, but sometimes Crocodiles are seen.

BILEN LODGE AREA:

- The Bilen lodge area is a very good birding spot, outside of the Awash NP. The area is not protected and completely overgrazed by goats. There is almost no grass left, what ironically makes find the main target Arabian Bustard easier. To reach the lodge turn left in Awash town and drive about 40 km north along the road towards Melka Werer and Gewane. After 40km turn left at a small dirt road just past a small village. The first nice dry woodland you meet is good for Gerenuk (a very elegant and long – legged antelope). Arabian Bustard is also present in this area. Follow this very dusty dirt road for 13 km from the turn off to the start of the entrance road to the lodge. The woodland around this dusty road has Pygmy Falcon, Short-Toed Eagle, Bateleur and much more. At the sign “Bilen Lodge” turn left and follow the entrance road towards the lodge. The lodge is on a kind of dry and bushy peninsula surrounded by a large marsh. In the marsh and it’s edge species like Blue-Headed Coucal and Blue-Breasted Beeeater can be found. But the very tall reedbeds will hide most birds. The lodge area

has breeding Ethiopian Swallows, Yellow-Breasted Barbets, Superb Starling and the entire area is excellent for Slender-Tailed Nightjars. This was the only nightjar we saw or heard during our stay. Despite several walks with spotlights at dusk and dawn. We also didn’t find any owls.

- The dry area round the waterpump and generator (N° 2 on map) had a group of 7 beautiful Lichtenstein’s Sandgrouse. The waterpools near the start of the entrance road (N° 5) have some waders and may be good for birds that come to drink, like sandgrouse. The large acacias here may be good for owls. But we didn’t find them. The large acacia woodland right of the lodge (N° 3) is very birdy during the morning and holds many small birds. Like Nubian Woodpecker, Abyssinian Roller, several Nile Valley Sunbird (eclipse plumage), Yellow-Breasted Barbet, large flocks of Queleas, and a roosting Slender-Tailed Nightjar. The dry area south of here (N° 1) is very good for Chestnut-Bellied Sandgrouse (we saw 2-300 birds in large groups). We also saw Chestnut-Crowned Sparrowlark and Heuglin’s Courser. And finally we found our target as a pair of Arabian Bustard flew past. The landed a bit further and we tried to get closer. We followed them all the way past the lodge to the edge of the marsh. Here they finally relaxed and started feeding and we could admire them in the scopes.

- During our dawn walk we heard Lion and Spotted Hyena calling very far away. If you want to walk or bird the area you always need to take a local guy with you. Especially during the nightwalks. If you stay very close to the lodge you don’t need them. You can arrange a guide / guard at the office / diningroom. We always gave our guides a small fee.

- Accommodation: The Bilen Lodge is a very nice place to stay. But maybe a bit expensive. But during a stay of 1 night you can see almost all species. It may also be possible to stay in a hotel in Awash town and visit both Awash NP and the Bilen Lodge area from there. But I’m not sure about it.

- More info at: http://www.village-ethiopia.net/afar_region_loge.htm

Extra Birdingsite: Other birdingcrews have seen Somali Ostrich, Arabian and Kori Bustards in the grasslands along the road North of the turn of to the Bilen lodge towards Melka Werer and Gewane. So when you return on the asphalt from the Bilen Lodge turn left (North) and drive for about 30 minutes. There are lots of Bustards, both Kori & Arabian and Ostrich. Large numbers of Chestnut Bellied Sandgrouse also but sightings are more distant than Bilen track so the need for early or late visit to beat the heathaze.

DINSHO AREA:

- Dinsho is a small town along the road from Shashemene and Asela towards Robe - Goba and the Bale Mountains National Park. The Northern most part of this National Park lies along the road towards Dinsho town. And the Headquarters HQ of the park is just outside the village along the road to Robe. Make sure you visit the HQ on the day of you’re arrival in the region. As the entrance building to the Dinsho forest is the only place were you can buy entrance tickets to visit and bird the National Park and the Sanetti Plateau. You can also stay at the Dinsho HQ.

Cape Eagle Owl site: 14 km before Dinsho:

- When approaching Dinsho from Shashemene, about 14 km before reaching the town you will see a obvious rocky gorge below the road on the right side. Walk about 50m to the right side of the gorge and look down the right in the gorge. Search for obvious bird droppings on the cliffs. Usually a pair of Eagle Owl is present. Sometimes locals may demand money for looking at the owls. But you can usually ignore them. We luckily didn’t have this problem.

Marsh and small pond 9 km before Dinsho:

- About 9 km before reaching Dinsho, just past an other small village you enter the national park. There’s a small pond on the left and large marshy areas on both sites of the road. This first area is very good for many highland endemics, unique to the Bale Mountains. Like: Spot-Breasted Plover (we had a group of about 50 here), Blue-Winged Goose, Rouget’s Rail and Abyssinian Longclaw. But also Pallid Harrier, Tawny Eagle and Purple Heron. The marshy areas are excellent for the special mammals that live here. Like herds of Mountain Nyalas, Bohor Reedbucks, Gaint- Rootrats, sometimes Ethiopian Wolves and the star of the day: a hunting SERVAL. That we could admire for some time.

- When you continue towards Dinsho the area is good for Chestnut-Naped and Moorland Francolins, Moorland Chat, Rouget’s Rail (along the roadside) but also herds of Mountain Nyalas and Bohor Reedbucks.

Rivervalley between border of NP and Dinsho town:

- When driving to Dinsho and just when leaving the National Park there’s a beautiful river valley that makes up the border of the NP. You can make a very nice birdwalk by following the river valley North of the road. The valley has: Chestnut-Naped Francolins, African Black Ducks, Common Waxbill, Abyssinian Longclaw and Blue- Winged Goose. Follow the river valley to the left and then start walking back across the plains towards the starting point of the walk. The plains hold: Moorland Francolin, Yellow Bishop and herds of Mountain Nyalas and Bohor Reedbucks.

Dinsho Forest and HQ:

- Dinsho forest is a small forest patch round the HQ of the National Park. This forest is a very good place to find the local forest birds. Best time is off course early morning. The bushes near the entrance hold Cinnamon-Bracked Warbler. Will walking up the road to the HQ you can find many birds and birdflocks. Like: White – Backed BlackTit, Abyssinian Woodpecker, Abyssinian Catbird, Grey-Headed Woodpecker, and Abyssinian Groundthrush. A good birdwalk in the early morning across the low-forested hills between the HQ and the open forest (N° 4). (see red line on map) This is a good place for Abyssinian Groundthrush and Chestnut-Naped Francolin. There are also herds of Mountain Nyalas and smaller numbers of the endemic Menelik’s Bushbuck, Common Warthog and Bushduiker.

- Web Valley: a very beautiful valley just beyond the HQ. There’s a nice trail along this valley and it’s probably very good for birding.

- African Woodowl roost (N° 2): The owl roosts in a juniper tree next to the small toilet

building. To see it you need to stand at the back of the toilets and look up high in the narrow juniper tree that is overhanging the toilets. Sometimes it may be difficult to find the owl.

- Abyssinian Long-Eared Owl roost (N° 1): To reach this site follow the dirt road below

the HQ to the small green building. You can also follow a small trail into the woods towards the site (see red line on map). Left of the Green shad is a clearing. On the back-left side of the clearing or 2 low broad juniper trees. The owl was roosting in the first – right tree, about 2-3m high.

- A local ranger called Abdu or Abdulla knows these owl roosts and shows them to

birders for a fee. For the Abyssinian Long-Eared Owl he asked 450 Bir (a lot of money in Ethiopia for a bird). The African Wood Owl we got for free. When he took us to the owl he first guided us to the upper part of the Web valley and then walked down. This was off course to pretend that the owl was pretty far away from the HQ, will negotiating the price to see the owl. When the price was set we walked 2-300 m south of the HQ and strait to the owl. So if you want to use this info and map to find the roosting owls yourselves it may be a good idea to keep a low profile. And go to the owls without the rangers if possible. Otherwise it’s possible that Abdulla or other rangers may start demanding money because you found their owls. 450Bir is good money for doing absolutely nothing and they probably get something from every birdcrew that comes here. Knowing all of this you can maybe negotiate a better price, because sometimes the rangers also know daytime roosts of Montane Nightjars. But they didn’t know any when we were there (November). And told us the birds aren’t in the area at that time of year.

- Accommodation: It’s possible to stay at the HQ in Dinsho. They’ve got Bunkbeds,

toilets, showers, a kitchen and there’s supposed to be someone who can cook. Red Jackal can help organize this stay. There may not be electricity and you will probably have to bring your own food that the local cook can prepare. Maybe you could also camp here. The local ranger who can arrange a stay here is: Kemal Mohammed (Mobile phone: 0913434654) . I would recommend stay 1 night at the HQ. This way you can bird here the afternoon and evening of you’re arrival. Maybe seeing the owls, Montane Nightjars or other goodies. And you can start birding at dawn. This is much better then staying at the Wabe Shebelle in Goba. Because then you need to drive for more then 1 hour just to get here. And I don’t know at what time the park entrance opens. These are all problems you don’t have if you’re staying inside.

- More info at: http://balemountains.org/

Sof Omar: Salvadori’s Seeadeater:

- This birdingsite at about 150km east off Dinsho is the best place for the endemic Salvadori’s Seedeater. Beyond the village of Soff Omar drive left and descend into the gorge. Search here for the seedeaters. Other good birds here are: Bristle-Crowned Starling, Lesser Honeyguide, African Hawk-Eagle, Blue-Breasted Beeeater, Pearl- Spotted Owlet and Red-Headed Weaver. A Swiss birdcrew claimed to have seen Jackson’s Hornbill here.

BALE MOUNTAINS

- The highplateau of the Bale Mountains have a unique fauna and flora. And harbor highland endemics as the unique Ethiopian Wolf and it’s favourite prey Gaint-Rootrat, Spot-Breasted Plover, Wattled Crane, Blue-Winged Goose, Rouget’s Rail, Gaint Lobelias and Ice age relics like: Alpine Chough, Ruddy Shelduck and Golden Eagle.

- Accommodation: The Wabe Shebelle hotel in Goba is a very good base to explore and

visit the Bale Mountains and the Sanetti Plateau. The hotel garden has many highland species like: Brown-Rumped and Streaked Seedeaters, Abyssinian Slaty Flycatcher, the local form of African Goshawk, Abyssinian Catbird and Rouget’s Rail (in a marshy area outside the garden). Most birdgroups stay in here so it’s also a good place to share birdinfo.

- More info at: http://www.wabeshebellehotels.com.et/

Sanetti Plateau:

- The high plateau 4000m is a very special place to bird. With many very localised species. When you reach the plateaus edge, there are some marshy areas and small ponds. Here you can find Ruddy Shelducks, Wattled Ibis, Spot-Breasted Plover, Abyssinian Longclaw, Wattled Crane, Blue-Winged Goose, waders and some ducks. Continue on the plateau and scan for Ethiopian Wolves that hunt rats here. They are pretty common. We saw 7 on day 1 and 9 on our second day here. Sometimes they are very close to the roadside and they are not shy. The plateau is full of rodents so there

are plenty of raptors like: Steppe- and Tawny Eagle, Lanner Falcons, Augur Buzzard, Cape Eagle Owl and rarely Golden- and Imperial Eagle. But I didn’t see these last two. A bit further is a marsh on the left with Ethiopian Snipe and a pair of Wattled Crane. When you cross the highest point of the plateau the landscape and vegetation changes and it becomes more barren to an almost lunar-landscape. We did see several more Ethiopian wolves here and also more Steppe Eagles.

- At the place where there’s a small broken bridge over a narrow stream, we explored

the small valley above the road. We checked a known roosting-site of Cape Eagle Owl. But the bird was not present. The first / Northern part of the plateau is the most interesting.

- When you drive from Goba towards the Sanetti Plateau you first pass Eucalyptus

plantations. Later they give way to cultivated fields surrounded by native trees and small forest patches. This area is also very birdy. Especially when you start seeing the flowering red and yellow Red Pokers. This area has: Abyssinian Catbirds, White – Cheeked Turaco, Ruppel’s Robin Chat, Abyssinian Woodpecker, White-Backed BlackTit, Mountain Buzzard, Rufous-Breasted Wryneck, Black Eagle and Steppe Eagle. Higher up you start seeing trees with yellow flowers. These are the very special St. John's Wort Trees (Hypericum revolutum). Check the cliffs in the background for raptors, including Taita Falcon that may be here???

- Then you reach a zone with large heathscrubs (Erica Arboreum). This is a good site to

search for the Bale Parisoma and Cinnamon – Bracked Warbler. The checkpoint is close by and here the local rangers check you’re entrance ticket to the national park. You can only buy these tickets at the HQ in Dinsho. So make sure you bought them there. Otherwise you risk losing half a day. Normally you only need to buy a ticket for the day you explore and bird the Sanetti plateau. If you want to drive across the plateau along the same road towards Negele you are on a transit day and don’t need to pay. As the locals don’t need to pay to cross the plateau either. But on our transit day the rangers demanded our entrance-tickets and only after a lot of discussing between them and our guides and drivers (and some waving with a satellite telephone) we could continue.

- It’s a good idea not to start birding when you just past the checkpoint on a transit day.

You’re suppost to drive on without stopping. So it’s better to get out of sight first. The zone just below the plateau edge has Chestnut-Naped Francolins, the first Ethiopian Wolves and Klipspringers. Here I also discovered a roosting Cape Eagle Owl on a rock left below the road in broadday light.

Bale Parisoma site:

- When you pass the Sanetti Plateau and drive towards the Harena Forest and South to Negele you enter the habitat of Bale Parisoma. First there’s a steep descent with many hairpin bends, then you enter Heathscrub. About 1 km before reaching the Harena Forest there’s a wide bend. Just after this bend are 3 pretty large trees, the old road also meets the new road here. Walk back about 50 meters, in the heath scrubs below the road we found a pair of Bale Parisoma. That is the highland form or subspecies of

Brown Parisoma. Some split this bird as a full species. They seemed to react to the calls of Brown Parisoma I played. But there song seemed to be different.

Harenna Forest :

- This beautiful and very interesting forest lies along the road down the Sanetti Plateau towards Dolo Mena and on to Negele. It continues for about 30-35 km along this road and is still in good shape. The forest changes dramatically when you descent. First you enter Cloud forest with old trees covered with thick packs of moss. Then you pass some cultivation and small settlements. Lower down you reach tall mountain forest. The road is very quite and roadside birding can be very good. The forest hold: African Crowned Eagle, Sharpe’s Starling and lot’s of other goodies. Roadside scrub may hold Green Twinspot and the endemic Abyssinian Crimsonwing. But we didn’t spot these little gems.

- There are very few sidetrails and this forest is relatively unexplored and still poorly

known. A good place to search for Abyssinian Crimsonwing is a small side trail to the left towards a small river. The rivers edge is a good place to look for them.

- Like so many other birders passing here we didn’t have time to do this place justice.

It’s a long drive to Negele and few birders spend time here. We only had half an hour you could drive here from Goba and explore the forest along the roadside. And camp along the road or sleep just outside the forest in a village. You could bird during the morning in the forest and then drive on towards Negele.

- Accommodation: You could perhaps camp in a clearing along the road. But would

need to bring everything with you. Maybe you could stay in a small hotel in the town of Dolo Mena (this is about half way between Goba and Negele). But I don’t know if this is possible.

NEGELE AREA:

- The area near Negele is famous as the place best place in the world for 2 of the best Ethiopian endemic: PRINCE RUSPOLI’S TURACO & SIDAMO LARK.

Liben Plains: SIDAMO LARK :

- The Liben plains are about 17 km east of Negele town along the road to Filtu. The plains are famous for being the last stronghold for the endemic and Critically Endangered Sidamo Lark. 17 km East of Negele you reach the junction with the road going south towards Arero and Yabello. Just north of this junction is an army base. The best place for lark is the plains east of the road to Arero. The plains are terribly overgrazed and the grass is very short now. In this area you will notice a patch of taller grass surrounded by thorny acacia branches. (N° 1 on map) Birdlife has made this enclosure international as an experiment. At least 1 pair of the highly endangered Sidamo Larks has found this small patch. You have a chance of seeing the larks by walking round the enclosure and scanning the taller grass. Please don’t enter the enclosure or remove branches. As the bird could be disturbed and cattle and local people can enter and destroy the place.

- The rest of the plains have very short grass and few birds. We did see Pectoral-

Patched Cisticola, Plain-Backed and Grassveld Pipit and White-Crowned Starling.

- About 2 km before the junction, when coming from Negele there’s a small building

with large fig trees on the right and a small valley to the left. This area should be good for the endemic White-Tailed Swallow. But I didn’t find them here. The valley and the rest of the area are very degraded now. Almost all trees and scrub has been cut down. Only in the valley our still some trees and birds. Only the huge figtrees are left. So the Ruspoli’s Turaco’s that used to be found here are long gone. We still found: Lilac-Breasted Roller; Gabar Goshawk, Bushduiker, Crested Francolin, Yellow-Throated Spurfowl, and Black-Headed Oriole.

- The first part of the road towards Arero is also pretty interesting. During our pick nick we birded the woodland near a road to the left. (N° 2 on map) This place had lot’s of birds with: Nubian Woodpecker, Black-Headed Oriole, Superb Starling, Red-Billed Hornbill, and all kinds of other stuff. There were many Reichnov’s Seedeaters and Salvadori’s Seedaeter may be here to. The fields north of this woodland (N° 5) had Kori Bustards, Eastern Chanting Goshawk, Black-Winged Kite and Black-Chested Snake-Eagle. The small woodland at N° 3 was also very nice as we found a beautiful pair of Heuglin’s Courser.

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GENALE River: Classic Prince Ruspoli’s Turaco site:

- This is the classic place where all most all birdgroups search for Ruspoli’s Turaco. The best places is north of the Genale river. There are several side rivers and valleys of the main river and here the turaco can be found in fruiting figtrees. The key is to find figtrees with ripe fruits that the turaco and lot’s of other fruiteating bird’s visit. Most birdgroups seem to be able to find the birds, but it doesn’t seem to be as easy as in Wadera. The habitat is probably pretty degraded because of deforestation. Only the large figtrees are left to stand, as there wood is useless. Most our maybe all birdcrews use local guides that guide them to the fruiting trees. It appears to be difficult to search for the turacos on your own. There will always be locals that want to show you the bird for a fee. One of the locals called Adem Dube . When you would find the turaco on your own it’s possible Adem Dube Or other locals will demand money because you looked at there birds. Also the number of birds seen here is always smaller then at Wadera that is definitely the best spot.

- The rocky outcrops along this road are also good for Bristle-Crowned Starling.

Wadera: Best Place in World for PRINCE RUSPOLI’S TURACO:

- Wadera is probably the best place in the world to find this endemic and enigmatic bird. The best place is about 40 km west of the Genale – Negele junction, in the direction of Kibre Mengist. This road is pretty bad and still under construction. After about 40 km you will see a large powerline that crosses the road 3 times. The 3the time you will see a row of large eucalyptus trees on both sides of the road. Stop here (N° 1). There’s a tree on the right that has “205km + 500” written on it in blue. Walk left of the road and cross some fields. The people of the first hut know about the turacos and guided us for a small fee down the steep river valley. Walk along the trail down to the bottom of the valley passing some more small huts and fields. At the bottom of the valley is a small stream and a few logs make up a small bridge. Across the stream walk to the left towards 3 large Juniper trees. In these trees we found our first pair of Ruspoli’s Turacos in the early morning (7:20). The birds were high up in the trees and started calling and showed very well. Soon 4-5 other Ruspoli’s Turacos appeared and started calling loudly and chasing each other in the trees near the small bridge. Will admiring these spectacularly beautiful birds we also noticed: Rufous- Breasted Wryneck, Doubled-Toothed Barbet, Augur Buzzard, 2-3 pairs of Yellow- Faced Parrots that flew past, and. After this wonderful show we celebrated the unforgettable views of the turaco with breakfast. Brought down from the car to the turacosite by locals, arranged by our Ethiopian guide Tesfa. At 9 o’clock the rest of our group joined us below and together we explored this wonderful valley. We crossed a small field left of the bridge and followed a trail. We found another Ruspoli’s Turaco, Red-Headed Weaver, Blue-Breasted Beeeater and Collared Sunbird. Then we crossed the small stream and walked to some large fruiting figtrees. These were full of fruiteating birds. With Black-Headed Oriole, Double-Toothed Barbet, Common Bulbul, Pygmy Batis, African Thrush, White-Browed Coucal, Nubian Woodpecker and another pair of beautiful Ruspoli’s Turacos. We stayed here along a small stream for a will and enjoyed the many birds. Afterwards we walked back up to the cars.

- The rest of our group who arrived later at the turaco site had seen 4 Ruspoli’s Turacos crossing the road when driving towards Wadera. They saw the birds at about 35km from the junction (N° 5). At 5 km from the junction surprisingly also 1 Ruspoli’s Turaco was found along the roadside (N°5).

- The dry woodland north of the junction (N° 6) was also very interesting and we found

many birds here including Foxy’s Lark. Rocky areas nearby can have Bristle-Crowned Starlings.

Campsite area near Negele:

- We camped in the dry woodland west of Negele. The campsite can be reached by turning to the right in a small dirt road when driving to Negele coming from the Genale river. There is a sign “ SOS Sahel Ethiopia”. Follow this dirt road for about 3 km and turn of to the left 3 times. It’s not easy to find and our drivers even got lost when returning from town. The entrance road is very good for birds, as is the campsite. One late afternoon we birded the entrance road to the campsite. And every morning we birded the area round the campsite before breakfast. The campsite had: Golden-Breasted, Shelley’s and Superb Starling, Crowned Lapwing, Somali Bunting, Nubian Woodpecker, Greater Honeyguide, Orange-Bellied Parrot, Red-Headed Weaver, and. I also tried to find owls our nightjars at dusk and dawn. But only had one flyby nightjar and no owls at all. The entrance road has Buffy-Crested Bustards, Purple-Crowned Roller, Red andYellow Barbet, Von der Decken’s Hornbill, Crested Francolin, Purple Grenadier and many more……..

NEGELE – YABELLO: DAWA RIVER AREA:

- This road goes through a very nice area in Eastern Ethiopia and offers a unique chance to find several birdspecies that are typical for Somalia. These birds have followed the rivervalleys in to Ethiopia and some only occur in this small area in Ethiopia. These species include: Hunter’s Sunbird, Black-Bellied Sunbird, Juba Weaver, White- Winged Collared-Dove, and Pringle’s Puffback.

First dryriver bed:

- When you drive south from Negele towards Arero and Yabello you can stop at the first bridge over a usually dry riverbed and explore the area. There is a small trail through the bushes left of the bridge. There was a small bird flock here and we also found a very large Panther Turtle. In a large flowering tree an the other side of the river we saw Hunter’s Sunbird with it’s purple rump. On the right side of the river is a small field that has been fenced of with thorny branches. In a tree in this field we found a very nice White-Winged Collared-Dove that was singing. You can enter this field at the riverside. Purple-Crowned Roller and was also present.

Dawa River:

- More to the south you reach the bridge over the Dawa River. Apparently it’s not a good idea to stop or bird watch at the bridge itself. As there may be soldiers in the area that could send you away as the bridge is of strategically importance. Don’t know if this is still the case.

- About 20-30 m beyond the bridge take a small dirt road to the left. And start walking

along it and explore the dry thorny bushes left and right of it. This is a very good bird spot and we saw lots of birds here, despite the heat (35 – 40°C). We found Somali Bunting, Pringle’s Puffback, Tree-Striped Tchagra and Black-Bellied Sunbird. Check all the weavers here for the local Juba Weaver. We didn’t find any in breeding plumage, but you can identify them by the bicoloured bill in eclipse plumage. Further

on you reach the rivers edge and it’s rapids. A very nice spot. You can continue to bird the trail along the river. The river’s edge at the rapids is also a very nice pick nick spot.

Wachile – Soda:

- The bushland along the road between the villages of Wachile and Soda are also very rewarding. Along the roadside you will see flocks of the beautiful but strange Vulturine Guineafowl and also Yellow-Throated Spurfowl, Crested Francolin and great numbers of Gunther’s Dikdik that replace the Salt’s Dikdik that occurs at Awash NP. This species even has a small-elongated nose, probably against the dust.

- We picnicked in one spot and explored the dry forest that was full of good birds. We found: Golden-Breasted Starling, Somali Crombec and Mouse-Coloured Penduline- Tit. Further on we made a short bird stop and found a nice flock. With Brubru, Abyssinian Scimitarbill, Red Faced Crombec, Rufous Chatter, White-Rumped Babbler, Acacia Tit and Klaas’s Cuckoo. This is also a good spot to search for Scally Babbler. They seem to occur in dry forests with lots of Commiphora trees. You can identify these trees by their pale green or yellow bark, flaky trunks and broad leaves.

- The Crater Lake near the village of Soda is a touristical site and the rocky hillsides

may have Bristle-Crowned Starlings. You may need to pay to visit this site. And be aware for pickpockets !!!!

MEGA - YABELLO AREA:

- The area between the towns of Mega – Yabello and Soda are a combination of dry bushland and savannah and they are home to the beautiful Stressman’s Bush – Crow that is endemic to this small area. This area is very good for birds and also offers the best chances to find species as White-Tailed Swallow, Short-Tailed and Masked Larks, Red-Naped Bushshrike, Grey-Headed Silverbill, Three-Striped Tchagra, Somali Courser, Scaly Babbler, Hunter’s and Black-Bellied Sunbird, Chestnut and Shelley’s Rufous Sparrow, Sociale Weavers, Donaldson’s-Smith’s Nightjar and many more.

Yabello Motel area:

- The Yabello Motel is the best place to stay to explore and bird the area. During you’re stay here you can bird a bit in the area near the motel. In the early morning birding can be very good in the fields and bushes in the area south of the motel (N° 8 on map). Walk up towards the edges of the fields and explore the scattered bushes. On two walks here before breakfast we saw: Foxy Lark, Tawny Eagle, 1 Long-Crested Eagle, Lilac-Breasted Roller, Red-Billed Buffalo-Weaver and Grey-Backed Fiscal.

- On the other side of the junction, north of the motel is a small rocky hill. Find a trail towards the green Mosque (N 9) and bird this area at the edge of the hill. At dusk this place should also be good for Freckled Nightjar. But do take care walking here or near the junction at night. There are always locals walking round here and some may see you as a target for theft. So take care and walk in a group. Don’t know if robberies have happened, so ask you’re drive / guide or the motel.

- Accommodation: The Yabello Motel is the best base from were to explore the area. But there’s something to say about its organization and service. All birdgroups seem to come here and also lot’s of groups of other tourists. And as agencies (like Red Jackal) seem to book there stay here 1 or even 2 years in advance there’s a risk that the place could be fully booked. But even without booking you could always give it a try. And even if you booked 1 year in advance they still seem to mix up the bookings. I had to sleep in a different room each night and put my stuff in someone’s room every day. And the rooms didn’t get any better. Started with a nice triple room with everything on it and ended with a small single room without private bathroom. Electricity can also be a problem here, but that counts for the whole of Ethiopia and even Addis.

- The biggest problem is ordering and getting food here. There are about 60 – 70 rooms

and only a very small kitchen area (about 6 by 2 meters), 2 ladies and 2 –3 fires. So it takes them a very looooooong time to prepare all the guests meals. The key is to make sure you arrive at 5 or 6 in the evening and order you’re meals immediately and tell them at what hour you want to eat it. It’s best to also order breakfast at the same time. After this you got time left and could even try to go for Freckled Nightjar (see N° 9) or Donaldson’s Smith’s Nightjar (N° 6). Dinner will probably only arrive 30minutes after the time you told them. But if you don’t order it in advance and arrive at 7: 30 or 8 o’clock there’s a chance they are so busy they will forget about your order and stop serving food at 9. This happened to a Swiss group we met here. They didn’t get anything and started eating the bread leftover by other groups. So be prepared. Even if you ordered in advance the waiters are very lazy and can forget you completely. The only way we got our food and drinks was because our Ethiopian guide and drivers started demanding our food at the kitchen and helping out to bring us our stuff. At breakfast it’s exactly the same drill. So motivated your driver or local guide to demand you get served.

- In case the Yabello Motel is fully booked you could also stay at a hotel at the other

side of the junction. Ask if you can get food here too. Because this was not the case in the past and guests still needed to go to the Yabello Motel for diner and breakfast.

Area south of Yabello:

- The bushland and savannah south of Yabello and on to Arero, Mega and Soda is very interesting and is home to many special birds and animals.

- A good place to start is at a small dry wadi / riverbed at 22.5 km south of the Yabello Motel. (N° 1) Walk into the dry acacia woodland to the left and bird this area. The first bird I saw here was a good one! Red-Naped Bush-Shrike, Hunter’s and Black- Bellied Sunbird, Spotted Palm-Trush and Sulphur-Bellied Bush-Shrike.

- Another good birding area is 54 km south of the Yabello Motel (N° 2). We explored the scattered bushes right of the road and found an excellent mobbing-party. The partybirds were: another Red-Naped Bush-Shrike, Three-Striped Tchagra, Grey- Headed Silverbird, Spotted Palm-Thrush, Pale Flycatcher, White-Browed Bush-Chat, Hunter’s Sunbird and Grey Wren-Warbler. Back at the road we discovered a Grey- Headed Silverbill building a nest left of the road. On the road it said “47 + 900m from the junction to Arero”.

- On two spots in this area we found feeding White-Tailed Swallows. They where flying very low over the road and in between the bushes. Beautiful birds!

- About 4 –500m to the south of place N° 2 Sunbirders birdcrew birded the bushland left of the road and found a flock of Scaly Chatters.

- Tp reach the savannah drive south of the town of Dubuluk and just south of the next small village. Turn left at a small dirt road and follow the tracks on to the savannah. A bit further you can start walking the savannah to track species as Taita Fiscal, Masked-- and Short-Tailed Lark.

- During this walk we found Coqui-Francolin, Eastern-Chanting Goshawk, Bateleur, Tawny Eagle, Grassveld Pipit, and finally Short-Tailed Lark. We also had a mixed flock of Stressman’s Bush-Crow, Superb Starling, Ruppel’s Starling, Red-Bellied Buffalo-Weaver and Somali Fiscal . We picnicked under a large acacia and there was a short rain-shower. Our first rain of the trip and a White-Bellied Bustard started to call in the distance. I quickly located this very nice male and we approached it. We walked another 1.5-2kms. But only saw White-Bellied Canary, Pectoral-Patched Cisticola and Pale Prinia. A bit further it gets drier and we encountered a herd of Grant’s Gazelle. In this area the Sunbirders-crew found a group of 4-5 Somali Coursers.

- We drove on to the road Soda – Yabello and turned left. In the acacia-woodland we started birding again. This area was very good and had large flocks of Grey-Headed

Social Weavers. These included small numbers of Black-Capped Social Weavers, Chestnut and Shelley’s Rufous Sparrow. Again mixed flocks of Stressman’s Bush- Crow, Superb Starling, Ruppel’s Starling and Red-Bellied Buffalo-Weaver were present. We also had Black-Shouldered Kite and White-Tailed Swallows in a tree.

- 1 km from the junction towards Arero (N° 6) is fields and some bushes. Here we met

Golden-Breasted Starling, Three-Striped Tchagra, Spotted-Palm Thrush, Buffy- Crested Bustard, and a pair of Pygmy Falcons. One of the large acacias sometimes has a roosting Verreaux’s Eagle Owl.

- A good area to find Donaldson’s Smith’s Nightjar at dusk is at about 2.5 km along the

towards Arero (N° 7). We taped in one bird here and it flew past nicely several times. And started calling a bit further away, were we couldn’t relocated it in the thorny bushland. Other good spots are in nice bushland 10-15km south of the junction towards Mega. We also had Pearl-Spotted Owlet here.

Road Yabello - Konso

- Yabello town is a couple of kilometres west of the junction and beyond it you enter the hills. Will birding along the road in these hills we found White – Cheeked Turaco, White-Bellied Go-away-Bird, Superb Starling and Red-Fronted Tinkerbird. In the trees near some field there was a small group of Bare-Faced Go-Away-Bird. A known roosting site for Verreaux’s Eagle-Owl is in a large broad acacia tree left-below this road trough the hills just next to two large Euphorbia-trees (look like gaint cactus but without spikes).

- Beyond these hills along the road towards Konso we explored the large acacia -

woodland. We had Golden-Breasted Starling, Somali Bunting, Spotted Palm-Thrush, Nubian Woodpecker, White-Crested Helmed-Shrike and Sulphur-Bellied Bush-Shrike. However couldn’t find any Steel-Blue Whydah’s. It was also very hot at this place and it was very overgrazed by camels and goats.

LAKE AWASSA:

- Lake Awassa is one of the large fresh water lakes in the Rift Valley. It’s very good for waterbirds, the riverine forests are rich in birdlife and the woodland behind the famous fishmarket must be one of the easiest places to find Spotted Creeper.

- We stayed at the old Wabe Shebelle hotel close by the fishmarket. The riverine forest in the garden had many Silvery-Cheeked Hornbills, Blue-Headed Coucal and Woodland Kingfisher. And also Northern Colobus Monkeys and Vervet Monkeys. The first one’s are beautiful and friendly, the last one’s are very naughty. So take care not to leave luggage, food or drinks alone. Or they will be quickly on the scene. The waterlevel in the lake was very high and we saw: a pair of African Pygmy Goose, African Fisheagle, Hamerkop, Malachite and Pied Kingfisher and some common waders.

- The area of the fishmarket (N° 1) has completely changed the last couple of years and is still under construction. Except for some Marabous, Pelicans, waders, Hamerkop, herons and African Fish Eagle there wasn’t much to see.

- To enter the nearby woodland and the peninsula were the fishmarket used to be you have to pass an entrance. Apparently you have to pay a small entrance fee now. But don’t know how much. The marshy area at the lakes shore (N° 2) had Purple Swamphen and Black Crake and could be good for other reedbirds, crakes and warblers. We followed the trail along the shore to the large figtrees. Watch out because there’s lots of humane shit on this trail. In the large fruiting trees we watched: Amethyst Starling, Golden Orioles and barbets Further on there’s another marshy area (N° 2) with Saddle-Bellied Storks and waders. We walked back trough the woodland and started searching for the Spotted Creeper. In some nice acacia trees (N°3) we found the Creeper and had lovely views. There was also a nice flock with Green – Backed Honeyguide, Red-Shouldered Cuckooshrike, Banded and Red-Fronted Barbet, Grey-Headed Batis, Red-Headed Weaver and African Paradise Flycatcher.

- Accommodation: We stayed at the very old Wabe Shebelle hotel that has a nice

garden. But the rooms are very old and the entire place is poorly maintained. But most rooms aren’t dirty, so you can survive a 1-night stay here. There are some newer and much nicer hotels nearby, like the one just next to the Wabe Shebelle. But I don’t know the prizes.

- More info at: http://www.wabeshebellehotels.com.et/

WONDO GENET:

- Wondo Genet is a famous birding site about 40 kms to the Southeast of Shashemene. It used to be the best place to find forest species in Ethiopia. But sadly those days or gone, as the forest is totally unprotected, is being cut down all over the place and very few trees or forest patches remain. In 5 to 10 years time all trees will be gone and locals are already cutting down the secondary forest and scrub.

- We stayed in the good Wabe Shebelle hotel that has a nice garden that had: Mountain Wagtail and the terrace on the roof of the diningroom is a good spot to scan for soaring raptors. During the afternoon after our arrival here we explored the valley north of the hotel (N° 1). We followed a dirt road up and then a trail that goes up the valley. Hundreds of poor local people came down this valley. Many of them where begging. Many of the small kids had large bunches of firewood on there backs. Total forest destruction at work!!!! Surprisingly there where still some birds here in the scrub and single trees. Many White-Cheeked Turacos, Sharpe’s Starling, Mountain Oriole, large flocks of Slender-Billed Starlings, flyby Yellow-Faced Parrots, Tamborine Doves, Double-Toothed Barbet and Lemon Dove. After a short thunderstorm and rain-shower birdactivity dropped down to zero.

- In this place it’s almost impossible to birdwatch without a local birdguide. If you try to they will just follow you, start pointing out bird faster then you can find them and demand money afterwards. Some of these guides are very good and know the best spots for you’re target species. A good idea is to arrange a guide the day of you’re arrival. They will hang around the entrance of the hotelgrounds. You could agree on a prize per target bird he shows you. Like 50 bir / bird. This will motivate them to search harder.

- The best area to start birding at dawn is near the pool and the small stream in front of it. The stream has Half-Collared kingfishers and Abyssinian GroundThrush can be found feeding in the understory near the pool. At this time it’s still quite here and birds feed more out in the open.

- Then walk up the valley to the East. Cross the small stream and go to the large empty building. Behind it is a gravelpit with a small marsh (N° 3) were Half-Collared Kingfisher has been found. Walk higher up to a zone with scrub and scattered trees. Here Narina Trogon has been seen and we found Abyssinian GroundThrush. Further on there are some more trees and small forestpatches and more birds. We found African Hillbabblers, many White-Cheeked Turacos, Yellow-Fronted Parrots in a tree, Scaly Francolins, several Spotted Creepers, Yellow-Fronted Tinkerbirds, Gray – and Red-Shouldered Cuckooshrike and Mountain Oriole. We also found an African Crowned Eagle on its nest on the other side of the valley. It’s probably possible to follow this trail further on and even link up with the trail at N° 1.

- Also scan the sky now and than for soaring Ayres’s and African Hawk Eagles, African Crowned Eagle and African Goshawk.

- More info at: http://www.wabeshebellehotels.com.et/

LAKE LANGANO

- Langano is a very big Alkaline lake in the Rift valley. Especially the South and Southeast shore are very rich in birdlife as there are large marshes and mature riverine woodlands.

Wabe Shebelle lodge:

- The only good thing about this old lodge is that it still has a nice garden. The rooms and service are very crappy and poor. The garden has some nice birds, including Greyish Eagle Owl and Slender-Tailed Nightjars at their daytime roosts. Check the tall trees for the owl and scan the dry leaflitter on the ground for the nightjar. Usually there will be locals who will show you these birds if you want. They will expect a

small fee. But you don’t really need them for the owl. 2 local boys chased the owl away because I had found it myself and didn’t want to pay for it. So I chased them of. Otherwise there are very few reasons to come or stay at this place.

Sabana Resort

- This is a very nice, new but pretty expensive beach resort on the West shore of Lake Langano. The birds found in its garden are typical for this dry and rocky habitat. With Little Rock Thrush, Hemprich’s Hornbill, Superb and Ruppel’s Starling. At dusk and dawn lot’s of Slender-Tailed Nightjars were hawking and singing around the accommodations. During two early morning walks I explored the area and found a beautiful pair of Heuglin’s Coursers between the dry acacia-bushes when you walk to the right when leaving the entrance of the resort. (N° 6)

South shore of Lake Langano:

- The South and Southeast shore of the lake are the most interesting for birds. You can reach the marshes along the southern shore by driving left at the junction, when driving south along the mainroad towards Shashemene. Follow this road for a will and turn left at a dirt road when you start seeing the lakes shore in the distance. Try and find a dirt road to the shore. And look out for Temminck’s coursers in this very dry landscape. When reaching the marshy shore, bird the marshes and walk to the right along the shore. (N°1) There are large numbers of waders here, with Little and Temminck’s Stints, Marsh Sandpipers, Greenshank, Avocets, Kittlit’s-, Little Ringed and Common Ringed Plovers, Green and Common Sandpipers, Black-Tailed Godwit and many more. Others have found the rarer Terek-, Broad-Billed Sandpiper and Red –Necked Phalarope. And also lot’s of ducks with Gargeney, Hottentot Tail, Shoveler, Common Teal and Pintail. Other birds here include lots of herons, cormorants, ibises and some warblers.

- About half way along the marsh you have to jump across a small channel. And further on you reach a nice acacia-woodland (N° 2). This was full of birds and we picnicked here. There were also several Slender-Tailed Nightjars at there daytime roosts.

- From the forest you can drive back to the asphalt road along a pretty rough and very dusty dirt road towards a small town with a large antenna. In the last part of this dirt road we found a group of 13 Temminck’s Coursers (N° 3).

- Turn left at the asphalt road and make another left turn at the turnoff to the Bishangari

Lodge. This road is extremely dusty and kids can be pretty naughty and try to clime up the back of you’re car. Drive on until the famous container-bridge across a small river. The small riverine woodland to the right can be interesting (N° 5). And we saw Mountain-Wagtail and Yellow-Fronted Parrots. We then started following the lakes shore and had several wader species, Goliath and Little Heron and Black-Crowned Nightheron. In the trees we found Red-Fronted Tinkerbird, Banded Barbet, a group of Bare-Faced Go-Away-Bird, and. In the marshy area further on I discovered an unexpected Pacific-Golden Plover. (N° 4) A bird I last saw in Thailand!!!

- We reached some nice mature riverine woodland with lots of fruiting trees (N° 5). We had: Silvery-Cheeked Hornbills, White-Cheeked Turacos, Red-Shouldered CuckooShrike, Double-Toothed Barbet, Spotted Creeper and more. Vervet and Colobus Monkeys were also present. We walked back to the dusty road and returned to the containerbridge. Along the road we met a nice pair of Grey-Kestrels that posed nicely in some trees.

- Accommodation: - Wabe Shebelle Lodge: I don’t recommend this lodge because it looked very poor and

service was lousy. During our visit there was no electricity and they didn’t even have softdrinks at the bar (on a Saturday!!!). But if you’re on a budget trip you could check out the rooms here.

- More info at: http://www.wabeshebellehotels.com.et/langano-hotel.htm

- Sabana Beach Resort: a very nice, new but a bit expensive resort. With very nice rooms, diningroom, great service, good food and a nice garden. The owner is Italian so that's why food is that good.

- More info at: http://www.sabanalangano.com/

- Bishangari Lodge: see http://bishangari.com/

LAKE ABIATA:

- Abiata is an alkaline lake that’s part of the Shala & Abiata Lake NP, just to the west of Lake Langano in the Rift Valley. Abiata is a very shallow lake and used to be famous for the thousands of flamingo’s that breed here. But since a Soda factory became operational the water levels have dropped dramatically. And some dry years there were far fewer flamingos than normal and they didn’t breed. Luckily the water level of Lake Ziway was extremely high this year. And Ziway is connected to Abiata trough a narrow river that feeds the flamingo lake and is its life-line. So this year waterlevels were higher again on Abiata and at the place where the river enters the lake an interesting marsh had developed. This marsh was full of birds, with groups of Common Crane, a pair of Black Crowned Crane, 1 Pink-Backed Pelican, Herons, ducks and lot’s of waders. Amongst these waders we found Marsh Sandpiper, Dunlin and 1 Broad-Billed Sandpiper. At the lakes edge many thousands of flamingos where feeding, with both Greater- and Lesser present. Also large groups of Northern Shovelers and smaller numbers of other wintering ducks. In the distance 3 Pallas’s Gulls were also detected.

- We also birdwatched the open acacia-woodland at the Northern entrance of Lake Abiata. Here next to the small river we noticed African Fish Eagle, and a Lesser Honeyguide that was feeding on a deserted beehive.

- To visit Abiata you must buy an entrance ticket at the main-entrance of the National

park that is along the main-road. This is the only place you can buy these tickets. At the other gates they only check them. You can only buy tickets between 8 or 9 in the morning to 3 or 4 in the afternoon. Because there is only one lady who sells them and if she’s not around there’s nobody who knows what to do. We made the local rangers call her, to make her come to the maingate.

- It’s best to visit Abiata along the Northern gate.

LAKE ZIWAY:

- Lake Ziway is a large fresh water lake and the jetty is a good place to find water- and marshbirds. You can reach the jetty by turning right at a roundabout in the city-centre when driving North to Addis. When the waterlevel is low you can go out on the jetty and bird from there on. But now water levels were very high and we had to look from the shore. At the smelly and dirty fishmarket there where large numbers of Marabous, Pelicans, waders, Hamerkop, Sacred Ibis and African Fish Eagle.

- In the marshy areas to the left we found: African Pygmy Goose, Pied and Malanchite Kingfisher, African Spoonbill, African Jacana, Black Crake, Reed and White-Breasted Cormorant.

- More to the left was a wooden jetty that looked interesting and could be a good viewpoint to search for the difficult Lesser Jacana. But the resort that owns the jetty was still under construction and the owners didn’t let us go on their jetty. Maybe you’ve got more luck!

KOKA DAM:

- This dam trough the Koka Lake along the road Shashemene-Addis offers a chance to see some more waterbirds from the roadside. But take care because is pretty busy!!! As a large part of the lake has been overgrown by invasive waterhyacints there are few birds here. We only saw some of the common waterbirds and large numbers of Goliath Herons. So this site isn’t that good, but during a short stop you may still something.

SULULTA PLAINS:

- The Sululta plains are wet grasslands along the road to the North of Addis. After you have crossed a mountain pass north of the capital. You descend and pass a town (Sululta), further on you will see wet grasslands left of the road. Walk on to plains towards a small river and a lone eucalyptus tree near a small bridge. Follow the river towards the bridge. In the river we saw African Black Duck (N° 1). And we also saw Black-Headed Heron, Wattled Ibis, Augur Buzzard, Groundscraper Thrush, 2 Bearded Vultures and Common Cranes. On the other side of the river was a marshy area with long grass. This may possibly be a good spot for White-Winged Flufftail. Along the low hills a Long-Legged Buzzard flew past. We walked past the bridge & lone tree and went to the marsh (N° 4). Here there were herons, a breeding pair of Black Crowned Crane, ibises, waders, ducks and some seedeaters.