Bird Town Trail 10 k

8/16/2019 Bird Town Trail 10 k

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I n 1892, the National Carbon battery factory opened up on the corner of Madison Avenueand West 117th Street. West 117th was a dirt road deeply rutted with wagon tracks and lined with afew farms. The factory owned 115 acres extending west along Madison Avenue to where Bunts Road isnow. It soon established the Pleasant Hill Allotment, subdivided into 424 lots, which it sold to itsworkers for minimal down payments. Originally referred to as the “Carbon District,” houses quicklysprouted. Only five of the streets are named for indigenous birds, but the area soon became“Birdtown.”

At its peak, National Carbon had 2,600 employees. Carpatho-Rusyns, Poles, Slovaks and Ukraini-ans filled the Birdtown area; quickly raising money to build churches for their various religious tradi-

tions. By 1906, several churches were already built. In 1910, according to the census, 70 percent ofthe residents listed their primary language as Slovak. In the 1920s, Birdtown reached its peak popula-tion of 4,000 residents. Now, about 100 years later, the population is only 1,300. (Much of the his-tory for the Birdtown area was provided by Rose Slavik, who grew up here in the 1930s.)

1. Leaving the Madison Branch of Lakewood Public Library, 13299 Madison Ave.,turn right, heading east on Madison Avenue.

Madison Branch, Lakewood Public Library .This branch originally opened in 1921 in a rented sec-ond-floor dance hall space at Madison and Newman Avenues, with Miss Florence Cottrell in charge and

3,854 books in the collection. In 1928, Lakewood CityCouncil sold a piece of land in Madison Park for $1 fora permanent branch of the library. The buildingopened in 1929 (pictured) — shelving 10,000 books inan adult room, children’s room and reading room.It also had an extensive collection of books in the Slo-vak language. In April 1932, a fire damaged 2,000books, but the library reopened in May. In 1956, itwas renovated and air conditioning was installed. In 1992, the library received a Community BlockDevelopment Grant to expand the back for a handicapped-accessible entrance, an elevator, and rest-rooms. Four years later, the Dennis G. Fedor Computer Center was installed. The collection now in-cludes over 40,000 items, including A-V materials.

Mahall’s Bowling Alley, 13200 Madison Ave. In 1924, John K. Mahall founded what was one ofseveral bowling alleys in Lakewood, but now remains the only one. It had six bowling lanes, a pool-room, snack bar, dance floor and a barbershop. The dance hall was upstairs; sometimes they had Slo-vak plays there, too. Later, Mahall expanded into space that held an ice house and added 14 lanes, abar and restaurant. Just east, across Clarence Ave., was a car dealership (now a printing shop).

Madison Park. In 1917, the city of Lakewood purchased 15 acres from Fred Zimmerman and JohnHahn for $40,222, which it then turned into this park. The baseball fields and playground equipmentwere set up amidst bordering trees. In 1924, the city added “comfort stations” and wading pools.In 1956, two pools were installed for swimming and diving.

Second Annual Lakewood History Walk

Birdtown Trail 10-Kilometer Walk


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Grace Lutheran Church, 13030 Madison Ave. Formerly Ss. Peter andPaul Evangelical Lutheran Church, this protestant Slovak congregation was formed on March 21,1901 — becoming Birdtown’s first church — and met ina plain, wood-frame building at Quail and Thrush streets. In 1927, the congregation built this church at Grace and Madison Ave. It was once the na-tion’s largest Lutheran Slovak church. In 1935, they began celebrating some

services in English. Until the 1940s, Slovak was the primary language andmost of the congregation attended those services. For many years, even tothe end of the century, priests continued conducting twice-monthly servicesin Slovak. In the late 1950s, the last section of this church was built, adding

an educational wing and a chapel. In January 2003, this church became Grace Lutheran Church, andthe original congregation no longer exists. Current membership is about 300 people, and its“Growing in Faith” preschool ministry serves about 35 children. Grace Lutheran Church will be opentoday from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. for anyone wishing to view inside.

St. Gregory’s School, northeast corner of Cohassett and Madison Ave. This school and recrea-tion center opened in 1962 as part of St. Gregory the Theologian Byzantine Church. Prior to that, itwas an open field for many years. Across Cohassett Avenue was a sweet shop. Kraus’s Pizza shop wasGeorge Fedor’s law office; next to that was Paul Misencik’s funeral parlor (now the Lakewood Com-

munity Development offices), then a beauty shop, a private home and a plumbing supply shop.

St. Hedwig Church, 12903 Madison Ave. Built in 1906, this is the onlyBirdtown church named after a female saint. It was created to serve RomanCatholic Poles. Early on, the yellow brick church building (with the mosaicof St. Hedwig above the door) was a frame building that housed a kitchenon the first floor and a dance hall upstairs. Dances were held every week-end for local girls and returning servicemen after World War II. At thattime, the red brick building on the corner of Halstead was used as thechurch. Unique features of the current church building are the electricvotive candle stand and a ceiling mural that is right-side-up whether you face the back of the church or the front.

Ss. Peter and Paul Russian Orthodox Greek Catholic Church, 12711 Madison Ave. The parish was founded around 1902 and met in a smallwooden church on Quail Street, but this quickly proved inadequate. In 1918,the parish moved to this location, building the new church in 1922. In 1925,they built a new rectory and an iconostas. Despite the Depression, the parish flourished and its basement church was full. From 1948-50, the upper levelwas built. Parishioners donated stained glass windows, pews, chandeliers,kitchen equipment, and other necessities. During the 1960s, the parishionersvoted to have mass sung in English on two Sundays every month. In 2001, theyinstalled the brilliant stained-glass front doors that depict the church’snamesakes. The doors are lit at night.

2. At Dowd Street, turn right.

Former Dukle’s Meat Market, southwest corner of Thrush and Dowd St.Many of the houses you will see on these streets were originally built tohouse businesses as well as homes — particularly those built close to thestreet. Every need Birdtown residents had, they could find on these streets.In its heyday, Birdtown was like a bustling European village set down in themidst of a growing urban city. Up this street, between Thrush and Plover,was one of three dairies in Birdtown.


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Former Lakewood Day Nursery, 2070 Dowd St. In 1920, the FederatedParent-Teachers’ Association, composed of Mothers’ Clubs in various Lake-wood schools, began planning a child care center for the many widows inBirdtown who had to earn a living. Many women had to leave their smallchildren alone all day, some in cramped spaces, while others left their chil-dren under casual supervision of neighbors. The PTA enlisted National Car-

bon Company’s help — who provided ahouse (pictured at right, no longer existing at 12203 Plover St.)rent-free for three years, $1,000 for repairs and $150 yearly forheat. The PTA raised another $3,000 and the Welfare Federation guaranteed $500 a month for expenses.

On May 11, 1921, the nursery opened, with Miss Belle Protzmanin charge. Parents were charged ten cents a day; plus five cents foreach additional child. The first week, 23 children were enrolled.Each child received a physical exam, then had their temperaturesand throats checked each morning. Undernourished children were put on a special diet; sick children received nose drops or cod liveroil. Each child had a weekly bath and own washcloth, towel, comb,toothbrush and napping blanket. Those under six had to take a two-

hour nap. By 1924, the nursery had outgrown its space.The nursery’s board,150 women, Friendshipclubs and high school YM-YW clubs — as well as schoolchildren donating dimes — raised $27,479.71. In 1925,two adjoining lots were purchased at this location for$3,200. The new nursery (pictured above left) had twicethe capacity of the former space and reached its peakquickly. Over time, some of the practices were dis-carded, like weekly baths. In June 2002, after 81 yearsof service, the center closed.

Private Residence, 2135 Dowd St. John Vavrek built this house around1910, originally at 2090 Quail Ave, next to Harrison School. Born in 1875 inSlovakia, Vavrek came to the U.S. at the age of 24. He and his family lived onthe first floor, while the two apartments upstairs were rented. His familymoved from this house to 1604 Winchester Ave. The house was moved to thissite years later.

3. At Plover Street, turn left.

Former “Casarna,” 12915 Plover . This large brick building was builtearly in the 1900s. Many of the Birdtown residents called it “casarna,” saysRose; loosely meaning a rooming house.

Lake Erie Screw Corporation, corner of Plover and Halstead (looking west). The first buildingshere were erected in 1917 by Templar Motors Corporation. They made high-quality “small” cars(essentially sports cars). The introductory models were four- and five-passenger touring cars (costing$1,985), a four-passenger Victoria Elite ($2,155), and a two-passenger roadster ($2,255). The bodieshad 27 coats of paint, in red, bronze, cream and blue, with fenders, chassis and splashguards in blackenamel. Wheels were natural finish woods. Accessories included a folding Kodak camera, compass,inspection light, electric horn, tire pump and pressure gauge, spotlight, dash light, ignition switchlock, windshield wiper, plate-glass rear window, and a complete tool kit with jacks.


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World War I was the first setback to success. With the first car completedin July 1917, they were ready for quantity production. Instead, they were fu-riously making 155mm shells, and only a token production of automobiles. In1918, they made about 150 cars. The next year, they turned out 1,800. Theybuilt five new buildings, costing $1 million. By 1920, they had 106 sales cen-ters in 32 states and 15 foreign countries.

In July 1919, famous racing driver E.G. “Cannonball” Baker set a newworld record driving 992 miles from New York to Chicago in a Templar in26 hours, 50 minutes, averaging just under 37 miles an hour.

But the postwar depression hit hard. From September 1920 to March 1921,they sold 128 cars. Employees fell to 165 from about 900. They lowered prices. “Cannonball” (pictured) set another record for a run from Akron toCleveland — 25 minutes, 26 seconds,at times exceeding 75 miles an

hour. An article recounted: “The route, via Brecksville andIndependence, is very dangerous, including 63 hills and val-leys, 45 turns, five railroad crossings, four bridges, two badroad breaks where [he had to straddle] dirt and paving, andthrough six towns.” By the end of 1921, they had about 850

cars produced. Recovery seemed assured.Then a fire destroyed much of the plant in December.The current main plant was fireproof, though, so produc-tion resumed a few days later. By April 1922, they were turning out eight cars a day, but by early1923 they were only producing one car a day. In the fall of 1924, a Cleveland bank took over thecompany for default of a loan payment. In all, some 6,000 Templar cars were made. The BramleyStorage & Power Lock Company next occupied this site, then Standard Dry Battery, until Lake ErieScrew Corporation was founded in 1946.

Not all Birdtown residents worked at National Carbon or Templar Motors — many worked at the factories on adjacent Berea Road (just across the railroad tracks, before the fence went up). Theseincluded Winton Motor Car Co., Empire Brass Manufacturing Co., White Sewing Machine Co., CrucibleEquipment Co., Precision Casting Co., Castle Auto Parts, and Howell Automatic Machine Co.

Former Slavik Grocery Store, 12721 Plover. This was a very small grocery store (pictured,house on right), with families living behind and above the store, like so many in Birdtown. Yet, evenwith the prevalence of grocery stores, they were able to do well be-cause the population was so dense. “My mother would go out every daywith her leather grocery bag,” says Rose. She would walk from store tostore, getting what she needed for that day’s meals; after all, theydidn’t have electric refrigerators at the time.

Former Bailey Meat Market, 12717 Plover. Mr. Bailey made hisown kielbasa and ran his market through the late 1980s (pictured,larger house on left). It was also a grocery store, and had a penny gumball machine. “If you got a yellow-and-red gumball, you got a free candy bar,” says Rose.

Former Misencik Funeral Home, 12707 Plover St. In the early days ofBirdtown, bodies were taken by horse-drawn hearses to Cavalry Cemetery onthe eastside of Cleveland. Later, they were interred at Holy Cross Cemeteryin Brookpark, when that cemetery opened. Most families had the bodies laidout in the house for viewing; the funeral homes prepared the bodies, pro-vided the caskets and transferred the bodies to and from the houses and thecemetery. Wreaths were placed on the front doors of the houses to signifythat someone was laid out in the home. Scerba’s Funeral Home was alsooriginally on Plover.


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4. At Quail Street, turn left.

Former Cifranic Hall, 2115 Quail St. This was one of the social halls ofthe neighborhood. “Everybody had their reception there,” says Rose. Her parents held their wedding reception here in 1916, as well as Rose and herhusband Charles in 1948.

Former Lakewood Hospital Dispensary, 2107 Quail St. In 1911, the Kate Cas-tle Rhodes Dispensary opened here — seeking to reduce the neighborhood’s highinfant mortality with medical care, information and formula. In 1921 the dispen-sary became the hospital’s out-patient treatment center, handling colds, fevers,cuts and scrapes. If someone broke out in a contagious illness, such as chicken poxor diphtheria, the city health department came by to put a red quarantine sign onthe front door and no one was allowed in or out until the illness had passed.

5. CHECKPOINT: St. Nicholas Ukrainian Orthodox Pro-Cathedral, 2101 Quail StWhose portrait is above the front door of the church? Write answer on the Start Card.

Built in 1916 to serve Eastern Orthodox Ukrainians, this church is home ofBirdtown’s first onion-shaped dome, which represents a candle flame burningheavenward. Many Ukrainians in this area were members of the Greek-Catholic Uniate Church and, in 1905, started a parish they named St. Greg-ory's Greek Catholic Church at 2035 Quail Street. Ten years later, they haddifferences within the congregation and some began celebrating mass in theirhomes. In 1916, at a meeting of the Brotherhood of St. Basil (a branch of theUkrainian Workingmen's Association), they formed a parish and purchasedthis property for $1,600. St. Nicholas Greek-Catholic Church was dedicated inOctober 1916. Differences arose again and, in 1932, the parishioners chose toreturn to the Orthodox Church; it became St. Nicholas Greek-Catholic Inde- pendent Ukrainian Church. In 1962, a fire destroyed much of thetemple’s interior. This was completely renewed and re-dedicated in 1963.

In 1980, more extensive remodeling began, including a new dome.

6. Leaving St. Nicholas, continue north on Quail Street.

Harrison Elementary School, 2080 Quail St. Built in 1896, HarrisonSchool is one of the oldest schools in Lakewood. It began as a one-roomschoolhouse called South School. Harrison was first a two-room brickschool, with additions built in 1904, 1906, and 1916, increasing the class-rooms to 21 plus a gymnasium. Many classes taught the students Englishand Americanization — the first Lakewood school to do so for children ofimmigrants. In 1940, enrollment peaked at 390 students.

Congregation of Yahweh Temple, 2051 Quail St. The building waserected in 1902 — making it the neighborhood’s first church — for the parishof Ss. Peter and Paul Lutheran Church, now in a building on Madison Ave. It isthe city’s oldest structure continuously used as a church. From 1921 into the1970s, it housed the Calvin United Presbyterian Church. Then it was a non-denominational Community Outreach Church, the name of which still standson the sign, but they no longer meet here.


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St. Gregory the Theologian Byzantine Catholic Church, 2035 Quail St.Organized in September 1905 to serve Eastern Orthodox Carpatho-Rusyns. In1915, parishioners from St. Gregory’s formed another Greek Orthodoxchurch, St. Nicholas, also on Quail. The current brick church building waserected in 1925, redecorated in 1935, and totally renovated in 1978 with theaddition of five shiny onion-shaped domes. Note the unusual façade, featur-

ing a central steeple set upon a brick tower. In 1959, a recreation center andschool was built at Madison and Cohassett. In Birdtown’s heyday, a beautyshop and a bar were in the front of two homes across the street.

7. At Madison Avenue, turn right.

Play It Again, Sam, 12611 Madison Ave. Leo Cieskowski’s drug store was here until he and hiswife were killed in an automobile accident in the late 1960s or early 1970s. “He was the dispenser ofdrugs and information,” says Rose. He had rock candy in jars and even leeches in jars, for extracting poisons in the blood. Upstairs was Dr. Kandrac’s office, whom everybody went to see. Next door,where Carpenter’s Cleaners are now, was Jones’s Candy Store with penny grab bags.

Ss. Cyril and Methodius Roman Catholic Church, 12608 Madison Ave. Built in 1903 to serve Roman Catholic Slovaks — making it Lake-wood’s first Catholic church — the parish originated with 80 familiesand a total collection at the first mass of $11.33. By the mid-1940s, ithad 1100 families. The parish was named for two missionary brotherssent to Central Europe by Emperor Michael III at therequest of King Rateslav, ruler of Slovakia, in the

8th century. The original church can still be seen on Lakewood Ave. (pictured atright). In 1927, rapid parishioner growth spurred the need for a bigger church;this was completed in 1931. It was decorated in 1948 with the artistry of Dr. Jo-seph G. Cincik and the marble work supplied by John W. Winterich and Associ-ates. The geometric interlacing and round leaf patterns are from the Carolingian period, of the time the brothers worked among the Slovak people. Once amonth, the church still holds a Slovak language mass.

Timothy Laskey Certified Public Accountants, 12511 Madison Ave. Char-tered by the state of Ohio in 1911, Orol Federal Savings and Loan was originallylocated on Plover, but then moved to this building. Orol means ‘eagle’ in Slo-vak and, despite the Depression, the bank had over $1.5 million in deposits andassets in 1933. It was Lakewood’s oldest locally owned bank. It eventuallymerged with another bank that merged again later to become Charter One. Just to the right of this building was a dry goods store (where residents boughtclothing and shoes), and to the left was a hardware store.

Misencik Funeral Home, 12500 Madison Ave. Paul Misencik Sr. had the original funeral home onPlover; this one was founded by his son, Joseph A. Misencik. The father had two other sons who alsoran funeral homes: Frank had one in Cleveland, and Paul Jr. had one in the small yellow brick build-

ing that is now the Lakewood Community Development office. He had a reception/dinner room inthe lower level for post-funeral gatherings. Originally, Joseph ran his funeral home in a small framebuilding on this site, then he moved across from Ss. Cyril & Methodius into a small brick house. In1967, he built this building.

Heading east, next to his original building was Andrews Dime Store, Lakewood Bakery, a meatmarket, a barbershop, a food market, Cort’s Shoes, Mansky’s Shoes, and Fisher Brothers Food Store(at the corner of Ridgewood and Madison Ave.). The new Misencik building took over most of thisarea, then the public parking lot, and eventually the Fedor Manor at the eastern end of the block.

Brennan Market, southwest corner of Robin and Madison Ave. This was Leader Food Town.


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Southeast corner of Robin and Madison Ave. Where Crafty Things now stands was Rosin’s Bak-ery; next door was Baum’s Ice Cream Shop (now the Coffee Pot Restaurant), then Frank Stepka’s Bar-bershop. Where Home Furnishings now stands was the Grand Variety, Lakewood’s last five-and-dimestore, which the Frankels ran until 1990. On the other side were a beauty shop and a shoemaker.

8. At Robin Street, turn right.

Former grocery store, 2050 Robin St. (pictured, left)Grocery stores were on almost every street in Birdtown, aswere bars — hardly surprising with a peak population of4,000 in the 1920s. In addition to the stores, peddlers drovehorses and carts along the streets — selling fruits, vegeta-bles, baked goods, and even live chickens. Down the street,on the left at 2059 Robin, was a bar (pictured, right).

Former Slavik Dairy, 2069 Robin St. As you look down the driveway, you can see the small brickbuilding in the back; this was the dairy. John Slavik, Sr., bought this dairy in the 1930s and ran it forabout 30 years. He and his wife had eight children; six were boys, whose job it was to unload theheavy milk cans delivered by truck every morning from Oberlin and Lodi.

They had to run the machine to wash the glass bottles, pasteurize the milk,and then deliver the cases of milk bottles to customers’ houses. Many houseshad a small “milk box” near the back or side doors. “One time, in the 1950s,there was a huge snow storm when the boys had to deliver the milk by sled,”says Rose. People often came to the dairy with pails for cream. The Slaviksmade butter in churns and would cut off big chunks and weigh it, to sell tocustomers. Rose lived next door with her husband and four children.

9. At Plover Street, turn left.

Former Byzowy Meat Market, 12501 Plover St. (pictured at left) Like other busi-nesses in Birdtown, the owners lived behind and/or above the store. The butcher cut themeat on-site. “As a rule, they’d cut whatever you wanted,” says Rose.

Former Prybish Bakery and Grocery Store. Joe Prybish ran the bak-ery, delivering his fresh bread, and his wife (Mr. Byzowy’s daughter) ranthe grocery store (pictured at right). “You could smell his bread allthrough the neighborhood,” recalls Rose. The building the bakery was inno longer exists. Across the street was a candy store.

Former Plover Café, northeast corner of Plover and Lark St. The downstairs ofthis building was the Plover Café, a bar, for many years and it had a dance hall up-stairs where wedding receptions were held. Before that, in the early 1900s to the1920s, it was a furniture store. Rose’s parents bought a kitchen table there.

10. At Lark Street, turn left.

Former Baratko’s Grocery Store, 2055 Lark St. Next door (pictured at right),at 2051 Lark, on the corner of Thrush Street, was a bar where — even after Prohibi-tion — the owners sold bootleg whiskey from a side door.


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Former Swiss Dairy, 2019 Lark St. Here was another of the three dairiesin Birdtown (pictured at left). Next door was a blacksmith shop; this house isnot the original building.

Former Market House, 2011 Lark St. This building (pictured at right), etchedwith “Lakewood Public Hall” at the top stone, was a grocery store and a meat mar-ket for many years — down one side were groceries; the other side had meat. Resi-dents came to refer to it as the “Market House.”

11. At Madison Avenue, turn right.

Southwest corner of Lark and Madison Ave. Where The Corner Pub now stands was a drycleaner and a small appliance repair shop. Just west, next to it, where the Madison bar is now, wasSabol’s Meat Market.

Fedor Manor, 12400 Madison Ave. Built in 1983, it was named for George E. Fedor, a local at-torney who arranged for land purchases and other vital steps in its construction as a high-rise for

seniors. Born in 1909 in Slovakia, Fedor settled in Birdtown in 1913. Part of the reason for buildingthis apartment complex was to stabilize and begin a resurgence in the neighborhood. Formerly atthis site was Mansky’s Shoes and Fisher Brothers grocery store.

Steel Valley Federal Credit Union, southeast corner of Lark and Madison Ave. Former site ofthe Cleveland Trust Co. office, a one-time banking landmark. Next to it was the Standard Drug Store,with a soda fountain, juke box and a phone booth in the back. “This was where all the young boyshung out,” says Rose. Next to the drug store was another dry goods store, then Leo’s vegetable mar-ket (now a parking lot), and a shoe repair shop.

Charter One Bank / Family Dollar, 12222 Madison Ave. Formersite of the U-NO movie theater, built in 1917. In 1931, it became theRoyal Theater. On the side next to Ridgewood Ave. was a hamburger

shop; on the other side was a tiny popcorn and candy store (theatersdidn’t sell snacks then). The Royal Theater had serials on Saturdayafternoons and double features. On certain nights during the week,they had “Dish Night,” when they would give away dishes to custom-ers, or “Bank Night,” when they had prize drawings. The theater

closed in 1952. In 1995, the building was torn down for the bank and what was a CVS drugstore. Thesmall building just east of this current building and parking lot was a private house next to a bar; anempty lot was at the corner of Winchester Ave. (now an apartment building).

Shamrock West Apartments, southwest corner of Magee and Madison Ave. This was originallythe site of Schermer Brothers Department Store, until it burned down in 1962. It was Lakewood’s first and only locally owned department store.

Former Voik’s Grocery and Poultry, northeast corner of Winchester and Madison Ave. WhenBirdtown residents wanted chicken for dinner, they went to Voik’s. In the back were cages with livechickens. Customers would pick out the bird they wanted and take it home to kill and pluck. Headingeast, next door (where The Winchester Bar is now) was Jacob’s Bowling Alley, a smaller center thanMahall’s. This was connected to a barbershop. At the east end of the block, where the ice creamshop is now, was a gas station.

Hopkins to Newman Ave. On the western corner was a restaurant and bar; next door was a tailorshop (where the Flying Rib is now). Another bar was where the Shamrock currently resides. Rose addsthat all of these buildings have been altered. Where the dentist office and radio station now stand,with the parking lot in front, was just an open field for many years.


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Rockwood Subs, northwest corner of Newman and Madison Ave. This was theoriginal Madison Branch of Lakewood Public Library, from 1921 until 1928, when itmoved to a rented store room directly across from the current branch, which openedin 1929. It was upstairs, in a dance hall, and downstairs was a bar. Later, the upstairswas used as a rooming house.

Newman to Coutant Ave. In 1913, the Highland Square Theater was here; then, in 1917, it wasthe Pastime Theater. By Rose’s childhood, this was mostly empty fields, except for a barbershop andan auto repair shop on the corner of Coutant.

GrafTech, 11709 Madison Ave. Originally the National Carbon battery factory, the first build-ings went up in 1892. According to Andrej Babej, one of the first Slovaks to move here: “People wereseeking work in all directions around Cleveland because it was so tough getting a job. I got a con-struction job on the factory. … The boss told me to bring in a couple more men; … as many as I could,even a dozen would do. So I called up my brothers and many others; all got hired.

“Since there were no houses, except a couple of farms on Highland Ave [West 117 th St.], we came towork from Cleveland in a horse-driven wagon. … I found an empty house leased by the farmer Warner,

his farm was situated around today’s Wagar Ave. …Living in town one had to get up around 5am to get tothe factory on time, around 7am. Several times thehorses slid on the icy road … the passengers had to get out to help push the wagon.

“South of Detroit consisted mainly of farms and it was only after the factory started to operatethat things changed. … The other neighborhoods around Madison were all empty [for] many years.

“The cheapest lots were the ones next to the railroad on Plover Street — that is why the workersbought these lots and in a very short time a fairly large Slovak colony appeared. … They called [St.Gregory’s] ‘Scerba’s church’ since it was the Scerba family who invested and sacrificed the most forit; [Ss. Peter and Paul Lutheran] was called ‘Babej’s church’ because the Babej family put into it the greatest effort and sacrifice. No one would have thought that Slovaks would be living in such homes[in 1930], since most of all the Slovaks that established themselves here during the first years

worked for the ‘Carbon Shop’ and their wages barely met their needs.”

Former Trolley Car Barns, from Coutant to West 117 th St. The trol-ley cars on Madison Ave. were the last to arrive in Lakewood, in 1917.They remained until 1954 when bus service replaced it. They ran east toCleveland’s Public Square and west to Spring Garden Ave., where theyturned around. “You paid a nickel to ride it in Lakewood,” says Rose.“And you paid another nickel to go downtown.” Up until about 10 yearsago, the Lakewood side of West 117 th St. was called Highland Ave.

12. At Coutant Avenue, turn left. (A Burger King is on the corner.)

Coutant Avenue. This street was named for Benjamin Coutant, who in 1819 came here from

Pennsylvania. A marble finisher and pattern maker by trade, Benjamin became known as a mechani-cal genius when he covered his well and built a device to fill the buckets. Children from the nearbyschoolhouse on West 117 th Street would fill the school pail from his well. They called him Uncle Benand often played checkers and chess with him during the week. On Sundays, in his kitchen, the chil-dren listened to his vivid interpretation of the Bible. The West Cleveland Mission grew from thissmall Sunday school, guided by the First Congregational Church.

Former Substation Building, 1592 Coutant St. This was the substationwhere electricity was converted from AC power to DC power for the trolleycars. “We called it the ‘power house,’” says Rose. “The men who worked therewere so nice; they let us play in the yard.” To the left, Clock Electric was onceBob White’s Dry Cleaning shop.


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13. At Franklin Boulevard, turn left.

14. At Newman Avenue, turn right.

Newman Avenue. In 1843, James Newman came from London with his family and helped buildtheir log cabin near what is now West 117 th St. He was 11 years old. His father was a Swedenborgian

minister (see entries below on Nicholson House and United Latvian Church) and barely eked out a liv-ing. So James worked by day for nearby farmers and by night at the Cleveland Leader newspaper.Eventually he saved enough money to buy some land. By 1896, the growing community of Lakewoodneeded low-cost housing, so James’s three sons cut this street through the farmstead and builtrental houses. One grandson, George, became a city councilman in 1926.

15. At Detroit Avenue, turn left.

Detroit Avenue is the oldest street in Lakewood, originating as an old Indian path running fromBuffalo, NY, to Detroit, MI. With farmers shifting to commercial agriculture, transportation becamevery important as fruit was sent to Cleveland markets. In 1848, the Rockport Plank Road Companyconstructed a toll road here, and then a new bridge over Rocky River. About 30 family farms lined

Detroit Ave. from West 117 th to the river. The toll road went through Lake-wood to five miles west of the river, with three toll stations. In 1901, it be-came a free road. The first toll station was at West 65th St. and moved west-ward three times until it reached Warren Rd. After 1901, it was moved againand remodeled into a private home (pictured), at 1325 Cook Ave.

In 1893, Cleveland’s streetcar line ran along Detroit, ending at W. 117 th,so Lakewood granted a franchise to extend service to Rocky River.

Fairchild Chevrolet, 12120 Detroit Ave. In this area, Otto C. Berchtoldbuilt a house at 12008 Detroit (pictured). From 1899-1900, he was the thirdmayor of Lakewood hamlet and gave the Cuyahoga Telephone Company theright to establish service in Lakewood. Rates of service could not exceed $24a year for a party line, $36 for a private line, and $46 for a business line.Born in New York, Berchtold came to the area in 1864 and was a meat packer

for 40 years — even during his mayoral term. He died April 30, 1940.

Fry Ave. In 1864, Dr. Richard Fry purchased 27 acres in this area. He had just retired from 17years of teaching in Cleveland and practicing medicine in Cuyahoga Falls. He would regale his stu-dents with stories of James Fenimore Cooper, whom he knew as a child. In 1871, when Lakewood’s first Board of Education was elected by ballot, Richard received the second largest share of votes andserved two years before being chosen as chairman of the board.

Hopkins Ave. In 1876, Thomas and Mathilda Hopkins Henry bought land in the West 117 th St.area. (He was a descendant of Patrick Henry.) The land included a log cabin that had been a populartavern with a 16x30-foot taproom. The Henrys remodeled it and raised five children. A spring maker,Thomas built a small cottage on the land as a forging shop. Later he gave the cottage to one of hisdaughters when she married. Many descendants remained in that cottage for years afterwards.

Thomas named this street for his wife’s maiden name.

Former Lakewood Fire Station, 1422 Hopkins Ave. Engine House No. 3 was built in 1926. Abuilding boom was on, and eight more firemen were added to the force. City council changed theirschedules from 72 hours on duty and 24 hours off to just 24 hours on and 24 off. Firefighters also re-ceived a two-week vacation with pay after a year of service. This engine house opened in 1927 withtwo officers and eight firemen. In 1939, the Ohio legislature passed a law reducing firefighters’hours of duty to not exceed 72 hours per week. Because of this, Engine House No. 3 was closed so themen could fill in the ranks at the other stations. The building now provides costume creation andstorage space for Great Lakes Theater Festival.


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Winchester Ave. This street was named after Philander Winchester, son of one of the first preachers in the Western Reserve. He married Eliza Calkins, daughter of another minister, and to- gether they worked tirelessly for the anti-slavery movement. They owned a house here that wasknown as “the key place in Rockport” for the Underground Railroad. Many stories circulated of nar-row escapes of frightened slaves, hidden in the Winchesters’ underground tunnel and then spiritedaway at night to boats bound for Canada. Helping a slave escape was risky business; a man could be

fined $500 — a lofty amount in those days. As early as the 1820s, abolitionists were known in Rock- port and African-Americans accounted for one-fifth of the township’s 157 residents. Many fleeingslaves were brought from Medina County to await boats for Canada. In 1848, Winchester returned tohis native Painesville to rescue Walter Clark from slave catchers.

Farmer House, 1435 Winchester Ave. In 1867, Dr. Jared Kirtland hired AndrewFarmer, a black man, to manage his farm. Although Rockport had had African-Americanresidents since the beginning (most notably George Peake and his family who arrived in1809), after the Civil War the area became increasingly hostile to blacks. AndrewFarmer was free-born and had previously managed the Eliza Jennings estate. His wifePhoebe (pictured) was a Native American who had been illegally enslaved. They had five children who remained in this house for many years.

Beach Ave. In 1864, Henry and Sabrina Frost Beach arrived in Rockportwith their five-year-old daughter Emma, settling on 28 acres and cultivat-ing fruit trees. As they became wealthier, their house grew from a modest frame structure (pictured, left) to a 17-room Victorian house. To heat it,he was one of the first residents to use thenatural gas discovered on his property. Henry

built a 10-unit Beach Terrace (pictured, right) on the northwest cornerof Beach and Detroit Ave. He advertised unlimited light and heat fortenants, supplied by his three gas wells. In 1879, Emma married CharlesTownsend, who became the first chief of police in 1889. They had twochildren, Henry and Edith.

Cove Ave. This street was named for the natural cove at the foot of the street. It was cut

through W.B. Smith’s farm in 1873 and soon became a popular bathing resort. Women then wore along-sleeved sailor blouse, full black bloomers to below the knee, and long black stockings. Men worea one-piece outfit much like a long john, with the pants ending at the knees. Each family brought itsown changing station with curtains to insure privacy while dressing.

Faith Presbyterian Church, 12601 Detroit Ave. In 1905, this church was builtwith stone donated by a quarry owner in Pennsylvania and hauled to this site in a bor-rowed truck. The building contains two stained glass windows made by the PhillipsStudio and original windows of traditional design.

Lakewood City Hall, 12628 Detroit Ave. In 1805, this area was designated asTownship 7, Range 14, of the Western Reserve and began being settled shortly thereafter. What arenow the cities of Lakewood and Rocky River were originally founded as the township of Rockport in

1819. Neighboring townships were Dover to the west, Middleburg to the south, and Brooklyn to theeast. Around 1871, this area east of the Rocky River became known as East Rockport.In 1889, Lakewood was incorporated as a hamlet, with Ira Canfield as the first president of the

board of trustees (mayor); then as a village in 1903; and finally as a cityin 1911. In 1890, the population was about 450 residents; by 1900 it was3,355; and by 1910 it reached 15,000.

City hall was first set up in the house of Lakewood’s former mayor, Jacob E. Tegardine (who served from 1900-01), at Warren and Detroit. In1920, it moved to the former Robert R. Rhodes estate (pictured; nowLakewood Park). In 1959, city hall moved into this building on Detroit. Italso houses the police department and courts.


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The Lakewood Police Department was formed when it became a hamlet, with Charles Townsendas the elected marshal and 11 officers sworn in and charged 50 cents each for their badges. The first‘prison’ was a room at the “Half-way House,” a tavern at Detroit and Thoreau Ave. Then a smallbuilding was erected (later used as a chicken coop). In 1896, the hamlet purchased two steel cagesand ‘installed’ them in Mayor Clayton Tyler’s barn. They were moved into other barns, sheds andback at the Half-way House. Finally, in 1911, the police department found a proper home — sharing

the Tegardine barn with the fire department. Henry C. O’Dell was the first Chief of Police.The officers used bicycles (pictured). In 1914, they got their firstmotorcycle and, in 1917, the first patrol wagon, a Model T. In 1918,city council raised salaries, giving new officers $1,200 and the chief$2,310 annually. The maximum age was raised from 33 to 36 years.

In 1923, the department moved into its first and only separateheadquarters, the former Cuyahoga Telephone Building at 1484 WarrenRd. (now Kirtland Apartments). The two original steel cages went intothe women’s prison section and a garage was added. In the early

years, officers erected and moved all traffic signs, painted lanes and cross walks, and repaired traffic lights, radios and cars. In 1959, the department moved to this location.

Elliott Homestead, Detroit near Cohassett Ave. In 1856 at the urging of Dr. Jared Kirtland,

Franklin Reuben and Sophia Hopkins Elliott settled on a 22-acre plot of land here and grew grapes.Their eldest son, Henry Wood Elliott, a painter and illustrator, worked for the Smithsonian Instituteand accompanied some major geological surveys, illustrating the far reaches of American territory —including the Klondike, 1865; Yellowstone region, 1869-71; and Pribilof Islands in Alaska, 1872.There, he met and married Alexandra Melovidoff, daughter of a Russian official, and they settled ina cottage back here until 1902, when they moved into a house on Grace Ave. For many years he fought to preserve seals against extinction, even producing the Hay-Elliott Fur Seal Treaty of 1911.

Garfield Elementary School, 13114 Detroit Ave. This is Lake-wood’s oldest school, begun in 1830 in a log cabin by James Nichol-son and Mars Wagar. Sometime between 1848 and 1870, the schoolwas moved to this location. In 1867, under the Ohio CommonSchools Act, three schools were allotted to East Rockport Town-

ship — known as East, West and Middle schools. East School waslater renamed Garfield. In 1871, Lakewood’s first board of educa-tion was elected and hired its first teacher, Julia Comstock, at$40 a month, for East School. It was a small, one-room building(pictured, 1870s). The first brick edifice was built about 1880.In 1891, it was partitioned into two rooms; in 1893, it was doubled to the brick colonial building stillexisting today. In 1897, a two-room frame relief building was added and, in 1908, the main buildingwas again doubled. In 1911, eight more rooms were added. In 1913, Garfield’s Mother’s Club was formed (PTA forerunner).

Church of Ascension, 13216 Detroit Ave. This Episcopalian parish was formed asa mission from Trinity Chapel in Cleveland. In 1876, Mrs. Mary Bradford donated thesite and encouraged the 50 other members to raise $1500 to build a church. A small

wood-frame church was built at the front of the lot. A few years later it was movedback to make room for a bigger church. In 1918, this church was built. Memorialstained glass windows were added. In 1954, Ascension Hall was added.

Nicholson House, 13335 Detroit Ave. In 1818, James and Betsey Nicholson set up a farmstead on140 acres, from what is now Madison Ave. to Lake Erie. They lived in their covered wagon until theybuilt their log cabin. Afterwards they built a modest wood-frame house and ran a tavern. In 1835,they built this colonial house — the oldest frame residence in Lakewood. Their granddaughter, GraceNicholson Thompson, said:

“Hired help was unobtainable, so neighbors and friends were invited to assist in setting up the frame. On the day appointed, entire families came from miles around, the men to do the work, andthe women to serve the meals. … Timbers had been cut for months, all selected from trees nearby.”


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James was very involved in community affairs. He and Mars Wagar set up the first schoolhouse onhis property (which was his log cabin), and he helped found the first church, The First New Jerusa-lem Church in 1841. Their youngest son, Ezra, lived in the house until he passed away, with twomore generations after him living here until 1948. Many additions came over the years as the familyincreased in size. The house is now home to the Lakewood Historical Society, saved through the ef- forts of Margaret Manor Butler, historian, writer and former curator of the Old Stone House in Lake-

wood Park, also home and museum for the historical society.

St. Edward High School, 13500 Detroit Ave. In 1949, the school was founded by the Brothers ofHoly Cross of Notre Dame, Indiana, through the vision of Cleveland Archbishop Edward F. Hoban.They first held classes at the former St. Theresa’s Academy, a girls’ high school at Detroit and Robin-wood. In September 1951, the students moved into this new building and in October, on the feast ofSt. Edward, the school was finally named, in honor of Archbishop Edward Hoban. Before the schoolcame, this was a pasture used to graze cattle transported on the Norfolk Southern Railroad.

Winterich House, 13521 Detroit Ave. Built in 1883, this house now fairly hidden behind the greenhouse was designed in the Stick style for Lewis Short. This style features boards strategicallyangled across the walls. The house also has two “jerkin-head” gables in the front.

Former Price French House, southwest corner of Wyandotte and De-troit Ave. Price French came to Rockport from Vermont in 1828 with his family. He purchased land here and built the first brick house in Rockport(pictured), using mustard-colored bricks made of clay from the area.

Giel Ave. This area was originally part of the Kundtz Lumber yards (siteof one of the worst fires in Lakewood’s history, May 1920). Later, realty dealer Claude Oates Frick purchased much of the land and named three streets. Giel Ave. (the only one that meets Detroit Ave.) was named for John Giel, who did most of the building. The other two streets run north offMerl Ave., just past the railroad tracks. Chase Ave. was named for business associate Wayne Chase. And Hathaway Ave. was named for Urshal Hathaway of Berea, whom Frick was courting.

Former Kirtland Estate. Dr. Jared Kirtland and his daughter Mary

Elizabeth arrived in 1839, on a 200-acre estate from Madison Ave. to LakeErie, with Bunts Road just a lane through it. His house was in the center,at what is now the southwest corner of Bunts and Detroit.

Soon enough, he became known as “The Sage of Rock- port” for his knowledge of soils, plants and animals. Al-ready a well-respected physician and medical school pro-

fessor (he helped found the medical school of Case Western Reserve University,where he taught until 1864), Kirtland determined Rockport’s thin humus soil over abase of clay and shale would be better for fruit growing than traditional farming.

Around 1840, Walter Phelps began growing small fruit trees and, around 1850,Ezra Nicholson converted his farm to grape vineyards. Soon other residentsswitched from subsistence to commercial farming, becoming quite prosperous.

On Kirtland’s estate, he had plants, trees, shrubs and flowers blooming all year round, many of

which were seldom seen in this area — cypress, Chinese gingko (said to be the largest in the U.S.), Japanese paulownis and Siberian beech. He created hybrids of strawberries, raspberries and cherries.Helping with Ohio’s first geological survey, Kirtland discovered the Kirtland Warbler among 222 spe-cies of birds he reported spotting — two-thirds of which were new records for Ohio.

Despite his international fame, Dr. Kirtland was very humble and unassuming; sharing his knowl-edge readily. He died on December 10, 1877, at 84 years old. In 1961, historian Margaret Butler gotKirtland Lane named in his honor (off Edgewater Drive near the lake, but still on his original estate).His house was razed in the 1950s for a Kroger Grocery store (now Giant Eagle).


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Winking Lizard Tavern, 14018 Detroit Ave. Built in 1915, the buildingoriginally housed the Lakewood Tennis Club (pictured) with tennis courtswhere the Tops Friendly Markets parking lot is now. The club hosted a na-tional clay court tennis tournament in July 1916. By 1917, the building housedLodge 1350 of the Elks, who turned the tennis courts into a baseball dia-mond — the first lighted softball field in the nation. During the 1930s and

‘40s, the Elks hosted nightly double-header games, drawing hundreds of spectators. In 1958, the Elksleased the field area to Pick-N-Pay. Inside, the Elks had a theater stage on the main floor, and a six-lane bowling alley below. The Winking Lizard bought the building in early 2003 and opened in Nov.

Hixson’s, 14125 Detroit Ave. In December 1952, Bill Hixson opened a small flower shop at 13615Detroit Ave. In 1959, he moved the growing shop into this location, a former car wash.

Pilgrim Lutheran Church, 14224 Detroit Ave. This congregation first met in April 1913, with the first services held in the Church of the Redeemer, at Detroit and Andrews Ave. In 1914, they boughtthis property and, the following year, the Fellowship Hall was dedicated. The main superstructure ofthe church was dedicated in November 1922. In 1952, they added an organ loft and Narthex, andchanged the front entrance. In 1976, they built a new addition with offices, classrooms and an en-closed courtyard. The stained glass windows have an intricate design and color scheme.

Lakewood Baptist Church, 14321 Detroit Ave. With 23 members, thiscongregation originally met in a little chapel behind what is now United Pres-byterian Church at Detroit and Lakewood Ave. In 1905, they raised money —with help from John D. Rockefeller, who offered dollar-for-dollar contribu-tions (through Euclid Ave. Baptist Church, whose pastor, Dr. Charles Eaton,helped form this church) — and bought a lot adjoining Garfield ElementarySchool for $3,000. The chapel was built in April 1906 (pictured). As Lake-wood’s business center emerged further west, the congregation voted to relocate. In October 1910,they bought this current lot for $5,000. In February 1918, the initial building opened, with meetingsin the basement until the sanctuary was built in September 1923 (work was delayed due to WorldWar I). In 1953, the annex was built and, in 1965, the sanctuary was renovated.

Lakewood Presbyterian Church, 14502 Detroit Ave. In 1905 some members of Old StoneChurch in Cleveland decided a Lakewood church was needed. Reverend Alfred J. Wright, assistant pastor of Old Stone, began church services in a tent at the corner of Detroit and Robinwood Ave. In January 1908, a small chapel was dedicated at this site. Wright Parlor was added in 1913. The pre-sent sanctuary was built and dedicated in March 1918. The education wing was completed in 1951. As the congregation grew, they sponsored two daughter churches: Grace Presbyterian Church in 1920and Rocky River Presbyterian Church in 1955.

D.J. Wright & Associates, northeast corner of Detroit and Marlowe Ave. Originally, the Bell“Lake” exchange occupied a small frame building on this site until 1912, when it was replaced by thisthree-story brick building and renamed the Marlowe Exchange. By 1921, Ohio Bell Company had pur-chased the second telephone company in Lakewood, making us a one-phone town.

Former Joseph Hall House, southwest corner of Marlowe and Detroit. Joseph and Sarah Curtis Hall came to the U.S. from England in 1837, andshortly after arrived in Rockport. Joseph hastily built a stone house here,with little help, trying to finish before winter set in. The Halls had sevenchildren, with the last two born in this house. They were neighbors of Dr.Kirtland, who instilled in them a love of literature and appreciation for flow-ers, plants and trees. When the four sons married, they were each given 80

acres, and three of them built homes to the east along Detroit Ave. (one of which is now home to theYMCA). In 1916 the house was razed. Before its demise, it housed the Genck Realty Co. (pictured).


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27 th Annual Lakewood Arts Festival begins at Belle Ave., running along Detroit Ave. Enjoy a walk through the arts and crafts exhibits.

Lakewood Hospital, Detroit and Belle Ave. In 1907, Dr. C. Lee Grabermortgaged his own home to found a hospital for the village. It was a 15-bed facility in a small wood-frame building (pictured); Graber felt it could still

be used should the hospital fail. With help from the Women’s Board of Lake-wood Hospital Charitable Association, the hospital became a voluntary, non- profit institution. In 1910, nurses’ training started. In 1917, a four-storybrick, 85-bed hospital was erected. Dr. Graber was Chief of Surgery until heretired in 1948. In 1931, the city bought the hospital and, in 1940, began sev-eral remodeling and expansion projects. By 1986, the hospital had 410 beds and offered many spe-cialized services. Today, it’s Lakewood’s largest employer.

Lakewood Center North, northwest corner of Detroit and Belle Ave.Former site of The Shanty Co. auto parts store. In 1918, Arthur E. Kellogg began his business in a little shack he built across the street. He made quite a profit selling tires and batteries from his one-room shop. In 1925, he movedhere into an expanded store selling auto parts plus hardware, sporting goods,

and even toys. The second floor housed apartments. The building was razedin 1970 for this 15-story office building.

Former Cemetery, south side of Detroit Ave., between Belle andSt. Charles Ave. Mars Wagar created Lakewood’s cemetery here, on his property, calling it “the burying ground.” The first burial was his motherLucy in 1826. Mars’ grandson, Mars E. Wagar, wrote in 1923:

“In the early days, it was the custom of our family to receive two or threedollars or five dollars for the trouble of digging graves … and often wheremoney was scant, the service was rendered for nothing. I have often helpedto dig the graves with our hired man, Ahab Jenks, whose favorite saying was,‘We are all born but not buried yet.’ I have often helped to lower a coffin[using] long reins from harnesses. … Although the school children in my young

days saw ghosts walking through the graveyard, it never frightened me; in fact, I grew to love the place and often passed through, marking the quaint epitaphs on the tombstones and feeling sorrow- ful for my young playmates, who were already sleeping quietly there.”

When Mars E. wrote that no burials had occurred for years, and many remains had been moved toother cemeteries. Even his grandfather, buried beneath the great elm tree over 80 years, had beenmoved to Lakewood Cemetery in Rocky River. The cemetery was completely abandoned by 1925 andchildren used it as a shortcut to and from school on Warren Rd. (pictured). The remaining graveswere moved to other cemeteries and the tombstones to the city dump at Lakewood Park — many ofwhich were later retrieved and moved to the Lakewood Historical Society's site in the park.

Einstein Brothers Bagels Parking Lot, southeast corner of St. Charles and Detroit. From 1915-16, this was the site of the St. Charles Theater. Later, it housed Gilbert’s Ballroom and the Lake-wood Chamber of Commerce and Community Center.

Former Honam Homestead . John Honam, a Scottish weaver, settled on land from Belle to War-ren Ave., north to the lake. In 1838, he built a sandstone house at the corner of what is now St.Charles and Detroit. He and his wife had one daughter, Isabelle, for whom Belle Ave. is named. Shemarried Orville Hotchkiss and they lived in the stone house until 1870. Later, the house served as adoctor’s office, post office, grocery store, barbershop, and an upholstery company. In 1952, it wasmoved to Lakewood Park and is home of the Lakewood Historical Society. One room of it is a memo-rial to Dr. Jared Kirtland, who probably visited often, as his grandson, Charles Pease II, married JohnHonam’s granddaughter, Hester Hotchkiss.


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Former Wagar House, southeast corner of Warren and Detroit Ave.Mars and Keturah Wagar first settled in what is now Avon, but his friend James Nicholson enticed him to move here, which they did in 1820. They paid $7 per acre for 111 acres that ran from Detroit to Madison Ave.; Mar-lowe Ave. to Warren Rd. They built a log cabin at what is now St. Charlesand Detroit Ave., under a large elm tree that still flourished in the ceme-

tery for years afterward. In 1837, they built a stone house on this site. In1884, their son Francis replaced that house with a large Victorian wood-frame house (pictured atleft). Two other sons, Israel Dwelle and Adam, set up estates in the 1870snear Madison and Hilliard Ave., both growing fruit.

Around 1910, a small, one-room, wooden Red Cross Gas Station wasbuilt right on the corner (pictured at right). The wood-frame Wagar houseand gas station were razed in 1930, when Bailey’s built their first suburbandepartment store branch — the first suburban branch of any major Ameri-can downtown department store.

Alger Street (now Warren Rd). In June 1812, the Alger family became some of the first settlershere, traveling through tangled brush along the Detroit Indian path and its crooked branch on what isnow Warren Road. Six months later, Nathan Alger died at the age of 47. His son Henry, a shoemaker,

at age 23 headed the family of his mother and wife. According to his published reminiscences (“TheFirst Settlement of Rockport up to 1821,” which he wrote in 1858), he had arrived with “an oldFrench watch, an axe, part of a ‘kit’ of shoemaker’s tools, and seven cents in cash; and no householdstuff except a bed.” He built a 13x15-foot log cabin, and “hewed out boards” for a door, table, shoe-maker’s bench, and two stools. When the family moved into their “mansion,” they found it “quiteroomy and convenient.” They had no provisions; for almost two and a half years their only cookingImplement was a broken teakettle. Henry not being much of a hunter, they lived primarily on pota-toes and beans. Finally they were able to buy a cow and then a “small” six-quart dinner pot. Theyboiled dinners in it, and made a lid and dasher to churn butter. After five years, they went into debt$80 for a yoke of oxen. Although this is now Warren Rd., a small strip of Alger St. still remains — justsouth of the fork in the road, where Warren Rd. veers to the left when heading south.

Former Tegardine Estate, southwest corner of Warren and Detroit

Ave. Jacob Tegardine was the fourth mayor of Lakewood hamlet; he served four years as a trustee prior to that. He was first elected to the council in1897, and succeeded Otto C. Berchtold as mayor from 1900-01. During histerm, ordinances were passed for paving, sewers, water mains and fire hy-drants — all preparations for rapid growth. He also served Lakewood as con-stable, road supervisor, board of education member and postmaster, andwas a Civil War veteran. In 1866, he married Mary K. Wagar and they had five daughters. In 1884, they built a very large house, which became Lake-wood’s first city hall in 1911 (pictured). Tegardine passed away in 1923.

Detroit-Warren Building, southwest corner of Warren and Detroit Ave. Built in 1924, this five-story building boasted the first elevator in Lakewood. The first floor had Weinberger’s Drug Store.The barn of the Tegardine house remained behind it (where the Marc’s Plaza is now), which held the

police and fire departments; the latter of which remained until January 1994.

First Federal Bank, northwest corner of Warren and Detroit Ave.The Lakewood Market building was built here about 1900. This simple two-story brick building (pictured) had a hall on the second floor where Lake-wood Presbyterian Church met from 1905-08, then St. James CatholicChurch in 1910. By 1915, it had been incorporated into a commercial blockwith the Guardian Bank building, featuring a Greco-Roman façade. By 1944,it was further renovated and expanded along Detroit and Warren, and heldMarshall’s Drugstore downstairs and the American Legion Center of Lakewood, Post 66, upstairs.


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The Frame Up, 14822 Detroit Ave. From 1923-30, the Bernice Pyke Book Shopwas at 14824 Detroit. In 1905, Bernice (pictured) and her husband Arthur movedhere. Soon after she served on the school board, and helped found the local PTA andLakewood Public Library. In 1917, she helped women gain voting rights within thecity with her “direct, eloquent appeal to the city council.” In 1921, as a Democrat,she challenged five Republican male candidates running for mayor. They didn’t take

her seriously until her supporters staged an impressive parade just days before theelection. Four candidates withdrew to back the incumbent mayor, Louis Hill, whowas narrowly re-elected. In 1931, Bernice became supervisor of the Cuyahoga CountyBoard of Elections. In 1934, President Franklin D. Roosevelt appointed her Collectorof Customs for Cleveland. In 1954, at age 74, she ran unsuccessfully for Congress. She died in 1964.

Cook Medical Building, northwest corner of Cook and Detroit Ave. An F.W. Woolworth Com- pany store occupied the first floor of this building from at least the 1930s through the 1960s. Up un-til the Great Depression, Young’s Furniture shared the first floor.

Chipotle’s, Marc’s Plaza. From 1912-22 and again from 1924-30, this was the site of the Lakewood Theater — the city’s first mo-tion picture house (pictured). In the early days, many theaters had

a vaudeville show along with moving pictures. During and after theDepression, to attract customers, many theaters had game nights(like Bingo or Zippo) or plate nights (giving away place settings). Inthe 1920s, the Saturday matinee shows cost a nickel; by the late‘40s, they cost 10 cents; and by the late ‘50s, 25 cents.

16. CHECKPOINT: Lakewood Historical Society; last table at the festival.Get Start Card stamped by Historical Society volunteer.

United Latvian Evangelical Lutheran Church, Detroit and Andrews Ave.In 1841, James Nicholson and Mars Wagar helped found the First New JerusalemChurch, based on the writings on Emmanuel Swedenborg. In 1846, the congre- gants built a small church on this site (pictured). In 1906, they built a new

church nearby, called the Church of the Redeemer. In 1964, it became home tothe current congregation, which was formed in 1963 when two Latvian congrega-tions merged, most of whom came to this country after World War II. Worshipservices are held in the Latvian language, except for occasional baptisms, mar-riages and funerals. They also run a Latvian Church School where they teach re-ligious instruction, Latvian language, literature, history, geography, and cul-tural heritage. The education wing was built in 1972.

Lakewood Masonic Temple, Detroit and Andrews Ave. The Lakewood Masonic Lodge began in1907 with a census of the Masonic population in the village, and a petition was signed by 116 MasterMasons. The first meeting was held March 24, 1908, in the Lakewood Market building. In November,Lakewood Lodge No. 601 was granted a charter. In 1912, the members began plans for a Masonictemple and, the next year, purchased this site. The temple was dedicated on September 30, 1916.

Lakewood Plaza. This shopping plaza was formerly the French-Andrewshomestead (pictured). A son of early settler Price French, Collins left as hecame of age, marrying Rosetta Saxton in 1832. In 1856, they returned, pur-chasing 80 acres from here to Lakeland Ave., up to the lake. Soon after,Collins took Edwin Ruthven Andrews as a partner to help clear the land andestablish orchards and vineyards. Edwin married the Frenchs’ adopteddaughter Virginia (“Jennie”), Rosetta’s orphaned niece. Edwin and Jennie

had four sons. With guidance from Dr. Kirtland, their farm became famous for super-sized fruit —strawberries, cherries, grapes, apples, pears and plums — and they became one of the most prosper-ous fruit-growing families in Ohio. The house was razed in 1948 for this plaza.


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First Church of Christ, Scientist, northeast corner of Arthur and Detroit Ave. Formed in 1909,with members meeting in the home of Frank L. Thurber, this congregation then met in a hall untilthey bought this lot in 1911. In September 1914, the first service was held in what is now the base-ment. By 1918, average attendance was 600. In 1919, the upper level was built. The last serviceswere held February 29 this year, and the church is now for sale.

St. Paul Lutheran Church, southwest corner of Arthur and Detroit Ave.In 1903, five Lutheran families lived here and attended St. Luke Church inCleveland so St. Luke began a mission station, with the first service in theSwedenborgian Church. In 1904, two lots at Detroit and Lakeland Ave. were purchased for $875. On June 26, 1904, the church was dedicated (pictured).Pastor Fred Zucker opened the school in September 1905 and served as pas-tor and teacher for two years. In 1915, they purchased land at Detroit and Arthur Ave. and, on April 22, 1917, dedicated the new church. In May 1956,after extensive remodeling and expansion, the church was rededicated.

17. At Arthur Avenue, turn left.

Arthur Ave. This street was named after Arthur Hall, a son of John Curtis Hall, an early settler

with a fruit farm where the YMCA is now. Feeling college too confining, Arthur educated himself byreading — and collecting about 4,000 books. This led to two hobbies: bookbinding and making book-cases. After 70 years on his father’s farm, he moved to Indiana due to illness in his wife’s family.

Lakewood Public Library, 15425 Detroit Ave. In 1913, Mrs. C.Lee Graber and Mrs. Arthur B. Pyke, Board of Education members, got a $45,000 grant from the Andrew Carnegie Corporation to build alibrary. The site was purchased for $9,728 and construction began in1915. In May 1916 the library opened (pictured at right) in a one-story building, with a mezzanine across the front, constructed ofIndiana limestone. Miss Roena A. Ingham was the librarian, with a$10,000 budget and over 10,000 books. The first book checked outwas “The White Linen Nurse,” by Eleanor Hallowell Abbott (and still

available for check out). The library had 7,640 patrons.By 1921, the library had 13,884 registered patrons and 26,287 books. In addition, the Madisonbranch opened, plus “stations” were located at the high school, the Cleveland Yacht Cadet School,

the National Carbon Company, and the Marlowe telephone exchange. (Laterstations opened at Madison School and the three junior high schools.)

By 1922, Roena was requesting more space. In June 1924, renovationsincluded a fireplace in the children’s area (pictured at left), and a second floor with a reference area, quiet reading room, and lectureand meeting rooms. Roena (pictured at right) arranged forart loaned from the Cleveland Museum of Art to bedisplayed. She was librarian until she passed away in 1938.

Many renovations came over the years. In 1958, the current front design of thelibrary came, with the larger windows creating an open look. In 1976, the library

purchased the small bank building next door and annexed it for the children’s department. In 1981, the steps up to the front door were replaced with a ground-levelentrance and the elevator for handicapped access was installed. In 1991, basementspace was joined for children’s programming and a handicapped ramp made the booksale room accessible. In 1993, with interior alterations, the technology center and quiet room wereinstalled. And, starting in 2005, more renovations are coming.

For the second year in a row, Lakewood Public Library has been ranked number one nationallyamong 523 libraries in its population category by Hennen’s American Public Library Ratings. Thelibrary has about 170,000 patrons; owns 430,000 items; and last year circulated almost 1.9 millionitems. During the Arts Festival, the Friends of Lakewood Public Library Book Sale is in the lowerlevel. Restrooms and a drinking fountain are available.


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18. At Hilliard Road, turn left. (At Warren Road, it becomes Franklin Boulevard.)

Hilliard Road . Named for Richard Hilliard, an early pioneer who owned land from Madison andHilliard north to the lake. Born in 1797 in New York, he came to Cleveland village in the early 1800sselling dry goods and groceries. From 1830-31, he served as president of Cleveland, then later waselected (in the first city election) an alderman and a member of the board forming the school sys-

tem. In 1845, he was appointed a director of the new Cleveland, Columbus, Cincinnati and St. LouisRailroad. In 1850, he helped organize Cleveland University, which was to be in the West 14th and Lin-coln Park area but never made it financially — although it did lead to the naming of College Ave.,Literary Rd., and Professor St. in the Tremont area. He married Sarah Katherine Hager in 1827 andthey had nine children. Apparently he never lived on his property here. A Hilliard Square Theateropened at Hilliard and Madison in 1927; it has been closed for many years.

Former Baptist Meeting House, corner of Warren and Franklin Ave. Baptists in the new town-ship of Rockport first organized in 1832. In 1846, they built a meeting house at this corner. By 1850,they had ceased regular meetings so the building served as an important community center for years.

19. At the light at Warren Road, cross to the south side of Franklin Boulevard.

20. At St. Charles Avenue, turn right.

21. At the ‘Y,’ turn right onto Onondaga Street.

22. At Madison Avenue, turn left.

Lakewood Fire Station, 14601 Madison Ave. Lakewood’s fire department began with a volunteer force in 1902. J.A. Mas-tick owned a funeral home at the northeast corner of Detroitand St. Charles Ave. and kept the hose wagon and horses in abarn behind it. The hamlet’s population was about 3,300. In1910, an official department was established — with Chief Eyner

Buhl and three firemen (William Curry, Jacob Hennie and HenryBulky) (pictured at right), plus volunteers who were paid 50cents hourly per fire. The hose wagon and horses were now keptin a barn behind the first city hall (on the former Tegardine estate). The village also purchased ahorse and buggy for the chief. Soon afterward, Lakewood got its first motorized fire engine.

In 1911, when Lakewood became a city, the department was reorganized and members had totake a Civil Service Examination. The first official chief was Joseph H. Speddy, who worked 16 years fighting fires at Standard Oil Company in Cleveland. Chief Speddy served until he passed away in1931. (Of the original firefighters, only William Curry and Jacob Hennie remained with the depart-ment.) In 1913, a simple two-story brick fire station was built in place of the barn (pictured below,1923), sharing it with the police. Engine No. 2 and a service truck were purchased. In 1915, the city purchased a Pulmotor and a Peerless Roadster for the chief, and sold the last of the horses. And alarge water supply tank was built just south of the fire department (which was torn down in 1936).

In 1918, the city built Engine House No. 2 at the northeast corner of De-troit and Kenilworth. Lakewood had a building boom, with many new three-to four-floor buildings, so Chief Speddy requested an 85-foot aerial truck.This required an extension on the back of Engine House No. 1 — made possi-ble by the police department moving out. In 1926, the Alarm Office was setup, with wires strung from factories and locations close to schools, as wellas street box alarms still in use today. In addition, Engine House No. 3 wasbuilt on Hopkins Ave. near Detroit.

By 1931, the department had 65 firefighters. It also won Grand Prize in National Fire Prevention;and for 13 years previous had won first place among cities of 50 to 100,000 population — a recordstill standing as the only city in the U.S. to win 13 national awards in that class.


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Waterbury Road . This street was named for the birthplace of Betsey Bartholomew Nicholson:Waterbury, Connecticut. She actually came to the Western Reserve several years before her husband James. They met in Conneaut and were married there on May 5, 1812. Six years later, they moved toRockport, where Betsey gave birth to seven children, three of whom died in childhood. Her youngestson was Ezra. Three of her oldest children were already adults when Ezra was born.

Pentecost Evangelical Lutheran Church, 13303 Madison Ave. Organized in1918 to serve Protestant Slovaks, the original church was dedicated in 1922.In 1952, the current building was dedicated, and the original buildings wereremodeled into a preschool and community/choir parlor. A built-overstained-glass window that once faced outdoors hides behind a gold curtain inthe pastor’s office. The recently rebuilt pipe organ, a 23-rank instrumentoriginally in the church basement, was moved to the balcony in 1994. It has

four divisions, 1,385 pipes and a computer-controlled system with recording and playback capabili-ties. In January 2003, this church merged with Ss. Peter and Paul Evangelical Lutheran Church (at thecorner of Grace and Madison Ave.) to become what is now Grace Lutheran Church. The original congregation no longer exists. This church is rented during weekdays to another Christian congregation.

Clarence and Grace Avenues. These streets were named for two of James and Betsey Nichol-

son’s grandchildren; their father was Ezra Nicholson. Ezra became quite famous and wealthy. He in-vented the Nicholson Self-Recording Ship Log and Speed Indicator, plus other mechanical devices.He was the founding president of the Rocky River Railroad Company, and director of the FannerManufacturing Company, the Lakewood Savings Bank, and Nicholson Realty. He served as school di-rector and chairman of the board, and president of the New Jerusalem Church that his father had founded. He also helped choose the name ‘Lakewood.’

At 1568 Grace Ave. is a spectacular Queen Anne-style house that was built for H.E. Hackenberg,vice president, secretary and treasurer of National Carbon Company.

23. Return to Start: Madison Branch of Lakewood PublicLibrary, 13299 Madison Ave.

(pictured, opening day, 1929)

Sources:

Borchert, James and Susan. Lakewood: The First Hundred Years. Norfolk/Virginia Beach:Donning Co., 1989.

Butler, Margaret Manor. The Lakewood Story . New York: Stratford House, 1949.

Butler, Margaret Manor. Romance in Lakewood Streets. Cleveland: W. Feather Co., 1962.

Chabek, Dan. Lakewood Lore Article Archives. Lakewood Public LibraryWebsite: http://www.lkwdpl.org/lore/

City of Lakewood Archives. Lakewood Public Library.

Farmer, Nell R ., editor. Early Days of Lakewood . The Historical Research Committee,Lakewood Chapter, National Society of the Daughters of the American Revolution, 1936.

Lindstrom, E. George. Unpublished Lakewood Historical Data. 1940?

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