BIOMIMETIC HAIR SHIELD AGAINST POLLUTION
Transcript of BIOMIMETIC HAIR SHIELD AGAINST POLLUTION
Pollution is not a trend, it is a reality!!
1.2
billioncars
2.5 by 2050
1600cities
worldwide
are reporting
air pollution levels
.34.5
billions tons
CO2
emission
11
billions smoked
cigarettes
a day
7.3
billions humans8.5 by 2030
9.7 by 2050
54%live in urban
areas 66% by 2050
8-12
millionstons
plastics
a year in
oceans
55%of Chinese consumers would like
to learn more about how to protect themselves from pollution
70%of Chinese consumers are very
concerned about water pollution
In Thailand, some brands differentiate recently their haircare offering with less
mainstream claims, such as anti-ageing and anti-pollution.
ASIA
39%of US women and 20% of men use moisturizers for the anti-pollution
purpose
34%of US women and 21% of men use
anti-pollution cleansers
US
37%believe pollution has a big impact on hair appearance
BRAZIL
23%would be interested in facial
suncare products that protect the skin from pollution as well as UV
rays
52%of Italian consumers are
interested in haircare products that have anti-pollution claims
85%of Spanish consumers would like to
learn more about how to protect themselves from pollution
33%of UK women say they think the environment has an impact on the appearance of their hair
EUROPE
Source: Mintel 2017-2018
Pollution is an increasing worldwide concern!
Hair protection against pollution is on trend!
Cigarette smoke
Pollution and damage
Agriculture
Motor vehicles(Fuel exhaust)
Burning of wood, oil, grass, etc.
Wood combustion (fireplace & burning stove)
Coal/charcoal (coal stove)
Power plants & Factories
indoor
pollution
outdoor
pollution
Paint/ varnish
AIR
POLLUTION
WATER
POLLUTION
→ Cuticle damage→ Keratin damage→ Rough hair→ Dull hair
→ Premature hair loss→ Premature hair greying→ Scalp irritation and itching→ Asphyxiated scalp
Alteration of hair integrity by pollution
MAIN
AIR & WATER
POLLUTANTS
EXO-P™
BIOMIMETICHAIR SHIELD
AGAINSTPOLLUTION
HAIR
PROTECTION
• Protects keratin structure against water pollution
• Protects hair cuticle integrity from air pollution
• Improves hair glossiness
Protects hair integrity to help maintain strong
and soft hair, and provides shiny hair
• French Polynesia is a group of volcanic islands and atolls located in the Eastern South Pacific.
• Kopara is a unique ecosystem constituted of microbial mats found along atoll rims and in large ponds inside islets.
• To protect themselves from UV, pH and salinity variations, Kopara microorganisms produce unique exopolysaccharides (EPS) as a protective shield.
Exo-P™, hidden beauty from French Polynesia
*Do not contain and are not processed with ingredients manufactured with processing aids from or obtained from animal origin, animal by-products or derivatives (fibers, eggs, dairy, honey, etc…),
are not tested on animals after September 11, 2004 & are GMO-free (PCR (-) or not GMO concerned)
Environmental FootprintKey ingredient SourcingNaturalness
SUSTAINABILITY
•Key ingredient: Exopolysaccharide from Kopara (microorganisms mat) living in unique ecosystem in the rims of French Polynesian atolls
•Preservative free
•Bio-based: 100%
•ISO 16128: NOC = 100%
•Vegan compatible*
•Traceability: High visibility on supplychain
•Nagoya: Sourced in compliance with applicable biodiversity laws
•Biotechnological process: No pressure on Kopara unique marine ecosystem
•Ecotoxicological data
- Readily biodegradable
- Aquatoxicity >100mg/L
• Heavy metals are metallic chemical element highly reactive due to their ionic charge. They are naturalcomponent of the Earth’s crust and cannot be degraded or destroyed.
Main ones: Lead (Pb) Cadmium (Cd) Arsenic (As) Mercury (Hg) Nikel (Ni)
• Chelation is the neutralization of heavy metals by ionic binding (attraction between a negative and apositive charge)
Chelation properties of Exo-P™ EPS are the due to the presence of 25 % uronic acids (gluconic andgalacturonic acids) => interaction between metal cation and negative charge of acid functional groups ofEPS
Chelation of heavy metals
Non-reactive non-ionicstable complex
=> neutralization
Positive chargedheavy metal
Negative chargeduronic acid group
Exo-P™ neutralizes heavy metals to reduce their skin & hair toxicity
Chelation of heavy metals
In tubo test protocol
• Water solution with 5% Exo-P™ was incubated for 3 hours under agitation in the presence of 0.3 µg/mL of cadmium (Cd) or lead (Pb).
• After 3h, the concentration of the different metal was measured by flame atomic absoprtion spectrometry (FAAS) in order to determine the chelation capacity of Exo-P™
Cadmium
0
20
40
60
80
100
120
140
160
180
0 100 200 300 400 500 600
[Cd] eq (mg/L)
Ch
ela
ted
Cd
(m
g/g
EPS)
Lead
0
50
100
150
200
250
300
0 100 200 300 400 500 600
[Pb]eq (mg/l)
Ch
ela
ted
Pb
(m
g/g
EPS)
Exo-P™ exopolysaccharide
Neutralized lead
Exo-P™ exopolysaccharide
Neutralized
Cadmium
154 250
Water pollution protective action• Protection of keratin structure against
polluted water rich in heavy metals
1
Ex vivo studies
Air pollution protective action• Protection of cuticle integrity against
urban dust / UVs synergy
2
Evaluation of hair glossiness3
Less spotlighted, polluted water is also a true concern!
Among all the harmful pollutants of water, heavy metals bring about the most dangerous form of water pollution!
Main contaminants and sources
Pathogen
microorganisms
resulting from on-site
sanitation systems (septic
tanks, pit latrines) or
inadequately treated sewage
discharges
Organic
pollutants
such as chloroform, fats and
grease, halocarbons,
petroleum hydrocarbons,
VOC, perchlorate coming
from detergents, disinfection
by-products, food
processing waste,
insecticides and herbicides,
fuels and lubricants,
chlorinated solvents…
Macroscopic
pollution
such as trash or garbage
(e.g. paper, plastic, or food
waste) discarded by people,
nurdles, small ubiquitous
waterborne plastic pellets,
shipwrecks, large derelict
ships.
Inorganic
pollutants
such as heavy metals, sulfur
dioxide, ammonia, nitrates,
phosphates, sediments
coming from industrial
discharges and by-products,
food processing waste,
fertilizers, motor vehicles,
acid mine drainage, slash
and burn agricultures…
1
Impact of water’s heavy metals in hair
Ex vivo protocol
• Natural healthy hair locks from Asian women• 10 cycles: 1-minute immersion of hair in polluted water highly concentrated in heavy metals* or in distilled water (3 locks / condition)• Dosage of heavy metals (Lead, Cadmium, Copper) of hair fiber (inside & surface) by spectrometry (ICP/MS)
10 cycles
1min immersion in polluted
water
*Polluted water composition based on a high polluted cityLead 428 μg/L ; Zinc 3.42 mg/L; Copper 7.085 mg/L ; Cadmium 865 μg/L;Chrome 662 μg/L ; Iron 24.5 μg/L ; Mercury 1 μg/L; Silver 10 μg/L ;Calcium Carbonate 180 mg/L
NEW LMC’S
EX VIVO
MODEL! By its structural property, hair can interact with metals. What does it happen when hair is in contact with pollutedwater rich in heavy metals?
In contact with polluted water, hair fiber increases significantly its heavy metals content,
which could lead to hair structural impacts
1
Positive charge
of heavy metalNegative charge
of hair bonds
Evaluation of hair structure exposed to water pollution1
In hair, crystalline structure of keratin is a birefringent material!
NEW
TEST
METHOD!
• WHAT TO MEASURE?Birefringence = optical property of some material to divide in two thelight beam that penetrates it
• HOW TO MEASURE?K-PROBE® scanner coupled to XPolar® technology: imagery systemintegrated on a microscopy platform which analyzes birefringence bymeasuring modification of light polarization induced by the sample
Color map Resulting image
Km
axco
lor
scal
e
Optical microscopy
Experimental Kmax imagery of birefringence response
Kmax value enable the quantification of hair fiber birefringence related to keratin organization
Kmax value is calculated from intensityand polarization of reflected light and is represented by a Kmax color scale
x40
Xpolar®
x40
Xpolar®
The device emits a polarized light on the sample and collects the light reflected by a mirror under the sample
Non birefringentmaterial
Birefringentmaterial
Evaluation of hair structure exposed to water pollutionEx vivo protocol
• Natural healthy hair locks from a Caucasian woman• 30 cycles: 2-minute immersion of hair in a 0.5% Exo-P™ aqueous solution or placebo then 2-minute immersion in polluted water* (1 lock / condition)• Analysis of keratin structure by birefringence measurement with K-PROBE® polarimetric scanner (41 hair fibers / lock)
1
Short width by
color band
=
High birefringence
=
Structured keratin
Exo-P™ protects keratin against exposure to polluted water. Hair fiber structure is maintained
Placebo Exo-P™ 0.5%
Increase in
band width
=
keratin
denaturation
Exposed to polluted water
Same band width
as untreated
=
keratin structure
is maintained
Untreated
Non-exposed
Modelized
images
*Polluted water composition based on a high polluted cityLead 428 μg/L ; Zinc 3.42 mg/L; Copper 7.085 mg/L ; Cadmium 865 μg/L; Chrome 662 μg/L ; Iron 24.5 μg/L ; Mercury 1 μg/L; Silver 10 μg/L ; Calcium Carbonate 180 mg/L
Hair fiber
is protected
Hair fiber
is damaged
*p < 0.05
Significant
variation of +11%*
compared to
placebo
Product
application
Urban dust
spray
AFTER POLLUTION
Evaluation of hair cuticle exposed to air pollutionEx vivo protocol
• Natural healthy hair locks from Asian women• Application of a 0.5% Exo-P™ aqueous solution or a placebo on hair then rubbing (3 locks / condition)• Preliminary spraying of urban dust (200g/m3)• Exposure in a chamber with UVA/UVB (1 mW/cm2) + urban dust (800 μg/m3, similar to highly polluted city) for a total of 8 hours• Hair scaling observation after natural drying by Scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM) before and after pollution
Urban dust composition PAHs, nitro-PAHs, PCB congeners,chlorinated pesticides, and inorganicconstituents (nickel copper chromiummanganese vanadium), aluminum
Particule size distributionMain size: from 1 to 100 µm - 10 µm
2
Hair scaling observation
Chamber exposure
with urban dust + UVs
Hair scaling observation
T0 8H
Exo-P™ acts as a shield to protect hair cuticle integrity from air pollution
Agglomerates
of cuticles
BEFORE POLLUTION
PL
AC
EB
OE
XO
-P™
0.5
%
Hair fiber isprotected
Hair fiberbecomes porous
Breakage of cuticles
Loss of cuticles
Undamaged and overlapped cuticles
Less cuticle
agglomerates
> Low damage
Evaluation of hair glossinessEx vivo protocol
• Natural healthy hair locks from Asian women• Application of a 0.5% Exo-P™ aqueous solution or placebo on hair then rubbing (3 locks / condition)• After natural drying, glossiness analysis with Glossymeter® GL200
2
Exo-P™ increases hair glossiness for shinier hair appearance
Glossiness evaluation
Natural
drying
Product
application
Glossiness evaluation
AGAINST AIR POLLUTION
↘ cuticle damage• ↗ hair protection• ↗ visual aspect
AGAINST WATER POLLUTION
↘ keratin degradation• ↗ fiber structure• ↗ physical strength
EXO-P™, GLOBAL HAIR CONCEPT
Exo-P™ is a biomimetic shield against pollution,
to protect hair integrity.
Exo-P™ helps maintain strong, soft and shiny hair.
PROTECTIVE SHIELD GLOSS BOOSTER
↗ hair glossiness• ↗ shiny hair appearance
Exo-P™Biomimetic shield against pollution for skin and hair
NATURE-INSPIRED AND
SUSTAINABLE INGREDIENT• Unique protective exopolysaccharides
from French Polynesian Kopara
(endemic microorganism ecosystem)
• Proprietary blue biotechnology
process
• Manufactured in French Polynesia to
maintain local economy
GLOBAL HAIR PROTECTOR• Protects keratin structure against
water pollution (heavy metals)
• Protects hair cuticle integrity against
air pollution (urban dust + UVs)
• Improves hair glossiness
SKIN MULTI-PROTECTION
AGAINST POLLUTION• Reduces skin adhesion of PM2.5
• Chelates heavy metals
• Fights free radical activity
• Decreases hydrocarbon- & heavy metal-
induced damage
MANUFACTURER BENEFITS• Aligned with sustainable trends
• Unique story-telling
• Global pollution new approach: air and
water pollution protection
• Multi-applications: efficient on skin & hair
CONSUMER BENEFITS Skin benefits
• Protects and cleans immediately skin
• Fast action in 7 days only!
• Purifies asphyxiated, dull and devitalized skin
• Provides a luminous and healthy-looking skin
• Prevents pollution-induced irritation and
premature aging
Hair benefits
• Protects hair from air and water pollution
• Helps maintain strong and soft hair
• Boosts hair shine
INCI NAME Water (and) Butylene Glycol (and) Alteromonas Ferment Extract
ADDITIVE None
APPEARANCE White to off-white viscous solution
FORMULATION Incorporation at the end of the formulation at a temperature below 40oC
DOSAGE Skin care: 1-3 %Hair care: 0.5-1 %
OPTIMUM PH 4-8
APPLICATIONS Skin care • Protective care• Anti-pollution care• Detoxifying care• Urban skin care• City defense care• BB,CC, DD care
Hair care • Anti-pollution hair care• Hair defense care• Protective hair care• Anti-aging hair care• Damaged hair care
PRODUCT INFORMATION
Good safety profile
TOLERANCE STUDIES• Cytotoxicity - Exo-P™ tested at concentrations from 4,57x 10-4 g/L to 1g/L
• Eye Irritation (HET-CAM) - Exo-P™ (3g/L) tested
• Skin irritation (48-hour single patch-test ) - Exo-P™ (3g/L) tested
• Sensitization (HRIPT) - Exo-P™ (3g/L) tested
• Mutagenicity (AMES - OECD 471) - Exo-P™ (3g/L) tested
• Phototoxicity (3T3 NRU test - OECD 432) - 100% Exo-P™ tested
ECOTOXICITY• Easy biodegradability (OECD 301D) - 100% Exo-P™ tested
• Aquatic toxicity on daphnia (OECD 202) - 100% Exo-P™ tested
• Aqua toxicity on freshwater alga and cyanobacteria (OECD 201) - 100% Exo-P™ tested