Bio Intensive Farmers Handbook

8/8/2019 Bio Intensive Farmers Handbook

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A F a r m e r ' s M i n i - H a n d b o o k : G R O W B I O I N T E N S I V E S u s t a i n a b l e M i n i - F a r m i n g

By Margo Royer-Miller, Ecology Action Apprentice

An Ecology Action Self-Learning Series Publication

An Ecology Action

Sel-Teaching Publication


2/22A F a r m e r ' s M i n i - H a n d b o o k : G R O W B I O I N T E N S I V E S u s t a i n a b l e M i n i - F a r m i n g

2010 Ecology Action. All Rights Reserved. The Farmer's Mini-Handbook... is provided ree o charge to individuals byEcology Action in order to help increase the number o people who know how to grow their own ood using the ecient andearth-riendly GROW BIOINTENSIVE method o arming. You have permission to print and distribute exact copieso the Handbook in its entirety only i you do so without charge to the recipients and you preserve the integrity o the work.Permission to use excerpts rom the handbook, or use o any o the component portions o the material, such as text or images,or other purposes or in other works must be obtained in writing, in advance o use or publication, rom Ecology Action.No permission is granted or any other use, in any other medium, or o any other rights. Without limitation, permission totranslate must be obtained rom Ecology Action. Thank you!


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INDEXIntro ductio n.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . i

Principle 1: Deep Soil Preparation...................................................................................................................................1

Principle 2: Composting....................................................................................................................................................3

Principle 3: Intensive Planting..........................................................................................................................................7Principle 4: Companion Planting.....................................................................................................................................9

Principle 5: Carbon Farming..........................................................................................................................................10

Principle 6: Calorie Farming...........................................................................................................................................11

Principle 7: Open-Pollinated Seeds................................................................................................................................12

Principle 8: The Whole-System Approach........................................................................................................................14

Next Steps/ Notes..................................................................................................................................................................16

The basic tools for creating your own GROW BIOINTENSIVE garden:D-Handled Shovel, Spading Fork, Trowels, Fork, and Dibber.


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a INTRODUCTIONa

Communities, amilies, and individuals all over the world are searching or ways to provide the necessary ood andnutrition or sustenance and health. This handbook is a simple and instructive look at GROW BIOINTENSIVE(GB) Sustainable Mini-Farming. It is a method o ood-growing that helps revitalize our planet by building soil, usinga smaller area to produce higher yields than conventional methods, and minimizing water, organic ertilizer, and bio-

logical pesticide use. It attends to the long-term sustainability o armland, so that ood can be produced generationater generation. GB may be part o the solution you, your amily, and your community are pursuing.

As you read this handbook and implement GB, please keep in mind these important basic ideas that under-gird andsupport this method:

1. GB works with the Earths natural cycles to create balance and diversity in the growing space and surroundingareas.

2. GB involves observation, recognizing recurring patterns to learn how to improve the health and productivity othe growing system.

3. Local armers are important resources.

As a armer or gardener you are also important to your amily, your community, and the world! Everyone relies onnourishing ood to eat. You produce that ood. All o our grandchildren will need healthy land so they can produceood, too. We must take care o the earth or uture generations. The armer aces the unique challenge o how to growgood ood and care or the armland at the same time.

Note: this handbook is written or all people who plant and grow ood, whether you identiy as armer, gardener, orproducer. For simplicity and consistency we have chosen to use the terms arm and armer throughout, to ac-knowledge that all ood-growers contribute to the eeding o humanity, no matter the scale o production.

GROW BIOINTENSIVE Sustainable Mini-Farming consists o eight principles to guide the armer to simultane-ously grow healthy ood and care or the land. These principles are inspired by how plants grow in nature and are

based on using natural processes to create a thriving and sustainable ood-production system. A well-executed GBarm approaches sustainability as it becomes a closed system with noo-arm sourcing o inputs AND nurtures the soil and ecosystem tobe sel-sustaining. In the long run, a GB arm is a arm that will bevital and productive or generations, a monumental achievement!

The eight principles o GROW BIOINTENSIVE are:

1. Deep Soil Preparation2. Composting3. Intensive Planting

4. Companion Planting5. Carbon Farming6. Calorie Farming7. Open-Pollinated Seeds8. Whole System Method

Read on to see how you can make your arm the bountiul, healthysystem you want it to be, or your amily and your community todayand in the uture.



Goal: Build Soil and Soil Structure

Looking at GB as a three-legged stool, deep soil preparation is one o the legs. Deep soil preparation builds

soil and soil structure by loosening the soil to a depth o 24 inches (60 cm).

Ideal soil structure has both pore space or air and water to move reely and soil particles that hold togethernicely. Air supports plant roots and soil organisms that give lie to the soil and enhance nutrient availability

or the plants. Aerated soil holds water better than compacted soil, requiring lesswatering. It also acilitates root penetration, supporting healthy plants and mini-mizing erosion.

To prepare the soil on your arm, determine where

your growing beds will be and where your pathswill be. (Paths are necessary because stepping onthe bed compacts the soil, reversing the process odigging.) Recommended bed dimensions are 4-5eet (1-1.5 m) wide and 20-25 t (6.5-10 m) longor a total o 100 t2 (10 m2). This bed size works well or labor and space eciency, and or waterretention. Make your paths wide enough or youto work easily, but not so wide that you sacricegrowing space unnecessarily.

To double-dig, stand on a digging board positioned12 in (30 cm) rom the end o the bed. Facing theend, use a fat digging spade with a D-handle (orthe tools available to you) to remove soil to makethe rst trench, 12 in x 12 in x 5 t (30 cm x 30cm x 1.5m). Put the soil you dig out o the trenchin a bucket, basket, wheelbarrow or pile to save orlater. Some o this soil will go back into the bed tocomplete the double-dig, and some can be used or

compost building and to start seeds. (More aboutthe uses or bed soil later.)

With a D-handled digging ork (or other locally available tool), gently loosenthe lower level o the rst trench 12 in (30 cm) deep. I you cannot penetrate12 in (30 cm), simply loosen as deeply as you can. Each year the soil will improve rom a combination odouble-digging and the growing action o roots, until you are able to achieve a loose, healthy soil structureto the ull 24 in (60 cm).

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a PrinciPle 1: DeeP Soil PreParation a

HINT:Make the work easier byallowing the soil to gentlyslide o the digging spadeinto the open trench, byletting your weight sinkthe ork into the lowertrench, and by rakingater every 5 trenches!

HINT:When digging or

planting, put a strong,wide digging board onthe bed to distribute

your weight and avoid

compacting the soil.


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Next, move your board 12 in (30 cm) back rom the rst trench to expose more soilto begin the second trench. Using your digging tool again, move the soil rom thetop 12 in (30 cm) into the rst trench. Now you have a new trench. Loosen the soilin the bottom o this second trench, as deeply as you can.

Repeat this pattern until you reach the other end o the bed. At the end you willhave one last trench to ll. This soil comes rom the soil you removed rom the rsttrench. Fill the trench and rake your soil smooth, your bed is ready or compost. Youhave crated the rst leg o the stool.

Notes to Refne Deep Soil Preparation:

Soil o proper moisture level (like a wrung-out cloth) will be the easiest to work with. I the soil is too dry ortoo wet it is more dicult to dig and the soil structure can be damaged in the process. Make your job easierand take care o the soil by watering the bed or keeping it dry, as appropriate, in preparation or digging.

Choose cool and comortable times o day or digging. Working in the heat o the day exposes the soilorganic matter to accelerated oxidation and more will be lost. The armer uses less energy digging in thecool o the day, too!

I the soil is very compacted, it may not be possible to dig 24 in (60 cm). Simply dig as deeply as you canand let the plant roots help you. You can plant deep-rooting crops to accelerate this process. Rememberthis is part o building soil structure, over time the ull depth will be achievable!

Another important part o building soil structure is supporting the benecial interactions between theorganisms living in the soil, the roots, and the soil itsel. The disruption o deep soil preparation is bestlimited to once every growing season, until good soil structure allows you to dig less oten.

I your soil is overly loose due to sand, double-digging is not helpul. Instead you will want to build soilstructure by adding organic matter in the orm o compost and keeping plants growing year-round so rootscan support soil microbial lie.

GB Farmers Challenge:

Watch your soil grow and change. Rememberthe goal o deep soil preparation is to build soiland soil structure, not to double-dig. Beore youdig, check the soil down to 24 in (60 cm), i it isloose all the way down you might only single-dig

(gently loosening the top 12 in (30 cm) with a dig-ging ork, like you do or the lower trench in thedouble-dig) or even just loosen the top surace othe soil 2-4 in (5-10 cm) so it is ready or compost

and planting.



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Goal: Maximize compost quality and quantityAND

maximize microbial diversity

Composting is the second leg o the three-legged stool. GB composting strives to produce the maximumamount o compost rom the materials used. It also maximizes microbial biodiversity through a correctlybuilt and cured compost pile using plant material rom your arm, ood scraps rom your kitchen, and soirom the beds.

Healthy compost is broken down plant material that returns nutrients and carbon to the soil, so the soilregains ertility and waste is minimized. Quality compost in the soil provides sustained release o nutrientsor plant roots and microorganisms. It provides more aeration or roots and microbes. Compost helps buer

challenging soil conditions, like high or low pH, or too much clay or sand. The organic matter in composalso helps increase water retention, so you need to water less. By usingcompost to support soil ertility you can be more sel-sucient andrely less on purchased organic ertilizer.

To make GB compost, start by picking any space available to putyour compost pile, maybe even on a growing bed. Next, gather yourmaterials, collect them over time and/or use what you have on hand:

1. Mature Material Did this plant grow to its old age and produce seed? I so, the plant is mature and made up o

material that is complex and tougher to breakdown. Think o a corn stalk ater it has borne ruit. It is structurallystrong.

2. Immature Material Did this plant grow to its old ageand produce seed? I not, the plant is immature and madeo material that is less complex and easier to break downThink o alala plants or lettuce leaves that are very fexibleIt can sometimes be hard to dierentiate between matureand immature materials, so just do your best.

3. Soil this comes rom the rst trench o soil you re-

moved during the double dig. Keep a little around aterdouble-digging or compost building.

4. Roughage - This is plant material that is thick andtough and will take many compost piles beore it decom-poses. Think o branches rom trees or stalks o cassavaRoughage is used once in each pile, so only a small amounis necessary.

a PrinciPle 2: coMPoStinGa

HINT:Make the base o the pile at least

3 t x 3 t (1 m x 1 m) so the pile isbig enough to retain moisture and

heat or healthy decomposition.

Adding mature material to a compost pile


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Now you are ready to build:

Step 1 Gently loosen the soil where you will build down to 12 in (30cm), so the pile can drain.

Step 2 Apply roughage about 4 in (10 cm) thick so the pile can drainand breathe.

Step 3 Apply a layer o mature material, about 2 in (5 cm) thick andwater until evenly moist.

Step 4 Apply a layer o immature material, about 2 in (5 cm) thickand water until evenly moist.

Step 5 Apply a layer o soil about in (-1 cm) thick and wa-ter. The soil plays an important role, helping to stabilize themoisture and temperature levels o the pile and inoculating itwith microorganisms.

Step 6 Repeat steps 3 through 5 until you have used up your mate-rials or the pile is tall enough or you to stop working on it,whichever comes rst.

Notice that you are using equal volumes o mature and immature ma-

terials. This is an important component in producing healthy com-post, as both the structural integrity o the mature material and theless-structural immature material contribute to the process o decom-position and the humus-ormation that make compost so valuable.

GB Farmers Challenge:Get to know your compost pile. Watch it, smell it, and eel it as it

changes. Even on the inside! Learn to know when it is healthy.Let it teach you how to make even better compost.

I your pile was short when materials ran out or it shrinks a lot, youmay want to keep adding to the pile when you have more material,until you decide to call your compost pile nished. Finishing a pilewithin one month is a good guideline. When you are done building,an additional layer o soil on the top will help the pile to hold mois-ture. Your compost pile will begin to shrink ater you build it.

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5

4

3

2

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To maintain your compost pile:

Because compost is the result o decomposition, maintaining a compost pile isabout creating the ideal conditions or this process. Decomposition is carriedout by microorganisms in the presence o moisture and air; thereore, the pile

must have enough moisture (like a wrung-out cloth) and enough air (too muchmoisture limits air). You have our strategies to create the moisture balance youwant: a) You can loosen your pile, b) water your pile, c)cover your pile or d) donothing. In some climates, it may be necessary to water the entire pile, or atleast the edges daily, to retain moisture. Pile location can help with this too, asshaded piles will retain moisture better. I you notice a sour smell or white color,your compost pile may be anaerobic (not enough air, too much water); loosenit to add air. I the materials are not breaking down, your pile may be too dry;water it and/or cover it to hold the moisture. I all is going well, enjoy observingthis miraculous process!

One to two weeks ater nishing your pile (adding material or the last time),you may choose to turn the pile. The best time to do this is ater the tempera-ture o the pile has peaked and dropped 20 F (11 C) (you can monitor thetemperature o the pile using a thermometer). Turning will result in more uniorm decomposition, but is noabsolutely necessary. To turn a pile, choose a site close-by and complete steps 1 and 2 as outlined on the pre-vious page. Move your pile with a pitchork or locally available tool, by taking orkuls o the top o the pileand putting them on top o the new roughage. Form the new pile by placing the less decomposed materiatowards the center o the new pile and the more decomposed material to the outer edges. Water ater every

layer you make, i needed, to establish good moisture (like a wrung out cloth). Turning will add air, restart-ing the decomposition process. Now maintain a healthymoisture level and let your pile cure.

The pile should smell musty, then earthy. The materi-als should become harder to recognize, ending up as acrumbly, brown-black, woodsy-smelling ertile materialthat eels rich to the touch. Your pile should take about3-6 months to cure, depending on the climate. Whenyou decide it is ready, put it onto already prepared beds,working it gently into the top 2-4 in (5-10 cm) o soil.The beds are now ready to plant. I you are not ready touse the compost, disassemble and dry the pile in a dry,airy and warm location, so it doesnt continue decom-posing (over-decomposition reduces the nutrient valueo the compost). Store compost dry; it will rehydratewhen you use it.

HINT:Use many dierent

kinds o plant materialto support a variety omicroorganisms. Thismaximizes microbial

diversity, creating morevibrant, healthierdecomposition and

compostplus naturalantibiotics in the

soil to encourage the

maintenance o planthealth.


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Notes to Refne Composting:

I the material available has a lot o oils or readily available nutrients like coee grounds, citrus peels, ormanure, limit it to no more than 1/6th the volume o the completed pile.

There are some things that are better to avoid putting into compost piles because they dont decomposewell. They have strong components that inhibit the decomposition process, or they contain undesirableeggs or seeds that can survive the curing process. Examples include: magnolia and eucalyptus leaves, poi-sonous plants, ivy, insect or disease inested plants, etc.

The more mature material in a compost pile, the cooler and slower the decomposition. The resultingcompost has higher amounts o stable organic matter that will have positive long-term aects in the soil.Cool composting is also better at maximizingthe quantity o cured compost created per unito built compost, which is part o the compost-ing goal.

A yearly compost application or each growingbed is a general guideline.

When applying compost, more is not alwaysbetter. Remember to apply a quantity that canbe sustainably produced by your arm.

Because compost is a stable orm o organic mat-ter with long-term benets or soil ertility andstructure, it is preerable to put all crop mate-

rial into a compost pile rather than turning cropmatter directly into the soil.

Compost supports soil ertility, but it may notcontribute specic nutrients that a soil is lack-ing. For this reason, it is recommended to testyour soil annually or basic and trace nutrients.I the soil is decient, an annual addition o or-ganic amendments as recommended by the soiltest can help stabilize the soil nutrients.

Caring or soil through composting and careulpreparation will help hold onto these nutrientsand over time you will nd yoursel needing to add ewer and ewer amendments.

http://www.timberleasoiltesting.com/ is a trusted resource.

By composting your own materials, you are actively taking care o your land by returning ertility to the soil.You are building soil and contributing to the long-term health o your arm! Your three-legged stool has twostrong legs.

A compost sifter helps remove un-decomposed roughage



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Goal: Create enhanced anduninterrupted root and plant growth

The third leg o the stool is intensive planting. It creates enhanced and uninterrupted plant and root growthby transplanting seedlings in a close, o-set spacing pattern so their leaves are barely touching at maturity,creating a living mulch over the soil!

The living mulch results in a mini-climate between the plants and the soil, retaining moisture and protectingsoil rom wind and water exposure that can lead to erosion. Intensive planting also maximizes root materialwhich increases the biological activity and the organic matter in the soil. (When the soil is healthy, roots canbe healthy; when roots are healthy, plants can be healthy.)

Intensive planting limits weed growth, supporting the plants and saving labor. Additionally, the armerbenets because the hexagonal pattern maximizes the number o plants in a given area, increasing yield.

From above, the pattern looks like this:Each plant is the same distance rom all the plants aroundit. In the center is the seedling and the circle around it is thearea the plant covers when it is ull-grown. From the sidethe leaves should look like this:

GB Farmers Challenge:Experiment with the best spacing or your climate. For example, try lettuce 8, 10, 12, and 14 in (20, 25, 30, 35 cm)apart and measure your yields per unit o area to compare production, soil coverage, and plant health. Remember

to try experiments 3 or more times to be condent in the conclusions!

Intensive planting is also utilized in the process o growing your own seedlings or transplanting. This arm-ing practice contributes to the sustainability o the arm through supporting a closed system (not buyingseedlings). Seedlings can be grown in fats, in any container that drains well and is deep enough or roots(at least 3 in/ 7.5 cm), or in a nursery bed. Propagate seedlings in a way that allows them enough room togrow, while creating a good mini-climate over the fat, container or bed. Use the o-set spacing pattern, put-ting most seeds on 1 or 2 in (2.5 or 5 cm) spacing. I the seeds are too small to handle, scatter them evenlyTo have enough space or the seedlings to develop properly, it may be necessary to move these seedlings toanother fat, container or area on o-set spacing once they have germinated. This process is called prickingout. Most seedlings are pricked out on 1.5 or 2 in (3 or 5 cm) spacing.

a PrinciPle 3: intenSive PlantinG a


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Your plants will be healthiest i you transplant the seedlings when theirroots and leaves are thriving and in balance with one another. Rootsare too big when theyve hit the bottom o the fat or container. Re-member to harden o seedlings or a ew days beore transplanting by

bringing them rom a protected temperature into the ambient tem-perature. Transplanting is best done in the cool o the day, ollowed byimmediate watering to settle the roots into the soil. Transplanting ispreerable to directly sowing seeds in the bed because you can:

avoid empty spaces in the bed caused by poor seed germination,

establish living mulch aster because seedlings are already large;thereore they cover the soil sooner and the soil requires less water,

use the healthiest seedlings to maximize yield,

produce warm-loving seedlings earlier (with some protection)that will be ready to plant when the weather allows, and

bring the crop already in the bed to uller maturity (producingmore compost material and higher yields), while the seedlingsare growing.

Another important part o attaining enhanced and uninterrupted plantand root growth is watering gently. I the rains arent enough and youwater your garden, make the water all gently like raindrops instead o

beating onto the plants or running over the soil. And remember i thesoil is healthy, the plants will benet, so when watering think aboutcreating good soil moisture instead o ocusing on the plants.

Using intensive planting, along with compost and deep soil preparation, is the oundation or a sustainablearm. These principles work together to create and support a healthy, vibrant soil, which can produce higheryields. A key in sustainable arming is to recognize that soil is the oundation o lie! Farmers grow ood thatnurtures lie; thereore, armers must grow and honor the soil.

These rst three principles o GROW BIOINTENSIVE take care o the soil; they are the three legs that arethe solid oundation o a good stool. To strengthen the system and complete the stool, the GB armer em-ploys ve more principles.

GB Farmers Challenge:Continue reading and implement these ideas on your arm. Watch careully to see the patterns that are consistent

between beds, crops, and seasons. Learn rom these patterns and remember that things take time.

HINT:Some ast growing plants like

radishes dont benet romtransplanting.

HINT:I the plants look stressed, check

the soil 2, 6, and 8 in (5, 10, 15cm) deep, there may be a hiddenmoisture imbalance.

HINT:To attend to the closed system o

the arm, make fat soil (soil usedin fats or containers or seedling

propagation) rom equal amountso compost and bed soil (saved

rom the double-dig). Once soilis available rom used fats or

containers, use equal parts o oldfat soil, compost, and bed soil. I

seedlings were diseased, use thatold fat soil or compost where themicroorganisms can transorm it

into healthy soil again.



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Goal: Focus on the whole gardento create a thriving mini-ecosystem with

benefcial interrelationships

Companion planting strengthens the whole arm by crop and layout choices that support benecial rela-tionships between plants, insects, and the soil.

Companion planting includes choosing crops that aregood neighbors and encourage each others growth.Good companion plants can ollow one another in thesame area, grow next to one another at the same time,or be interplanted to cooperatively share the same

space. Avoid putting plants in the same area or spacethat inhibit each others growth. Observing patternscan teach you a lot about companion plants.

Companion planting draws a diverse insect population to the garden by using plants o many types andcolors that fower all-season long. Additionally, a place or insects to drink water and to be protected at nightcan be helpul. These actions will support a balance o benecial insects that prey on insect pests and pollinatethe crops. Lastly, choosing strong-scented plants, like marigolds, will help repel unwanted insects.

Crop rotation is another way to use companion planting. Crop rotation means that crops o the same amily

are not planted in the same place within three years, creating diversity in the bed and over time AND mini-mizing disease pressure; thereore caring or the living soil and the whole garden.

a PrinciPle 4: coMPanion PlantinG a

HINT:Plant a deep- and thick-rooting grain like rye atera root crop to loosen the soil. Interplant beans with

corn to help support soil nitrogen and ecientlyuse the above-soil area while covering the soil

thoroughly. Plant basil near tomatoes to encourageboth growth and favor.

Corn, squash and beans are traditional companion plants, known as "the three sisters"


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Goal: Support closed-systemsustainable soil ertility

Carbon reers to plant material, also called biomass, that has a lot o complex cell structures and meetsthe criteria or mature material or compost building. Carbon arming promotes sustainable soil ertility byocusing on growing crops that produce a large amount o carbonaceous material (mature material) or composting. A armer in tune with producing enough mature compost material will grow these crops in at least60% o the cultivated area. By ocusing on growing enough compost material through choosing carbon-producing crops, a armer becomes more sel-sucient, relying on his/her own compost or soil ertility insteado buying resources rom o o the arm.

Some crops o importance are: maize, sorghum, amaranth, quinoa, millet, rye, wheat, barley, rice, oats, and

sunfowers. An important production goal or mature compost material is an average o 30 lb (13.5 kg) oair-dry material per 100 t (10 m) bed. A sustainable arming system ocuses on crops that have this po-tential.

In addition, carbon arming has a diet element. The important cerealcrops mentioned above also produce an edible seed. Emphasizing cropsthat produce compost material AND a signicant amount o calorie-rich ood sustains the soil and the armer!

Carbon arming can be enhanced by growing a small area o perennial

crops like alala that can produce large quantities o immature compostmaterial. Growing cover crops in the o-season keeps the soil coveredand supports sustainable soil ertility with more compost material. Keeping something growing in the soil atall times is an important arming practice or soil building and compost material, worth the extra planningit requires.

GB Farmers Challenge:Learn which crops are the best producers o mature material and edible seeds in your area and ocus on growing

and eating these. Always plan to plant enough carbon crops or your compost needs.

a PrinciPle 5: carbon farMinGa

HINT:Mix legumes and grains ora diverse cover crop that xesnitrogen and benets the soil

system with dense, soil-looseningroots.

Barley Cereal Rye Corn Hull-less Oats Wheat



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Goal: Grow a complete dietin the smallest area possible

Calorie reers to the energy that is ound in ood we eat. Calories are essential or human lie and are inall ood to some degree. Calorie arming produces a complete diet in the smallest space possible by ocusingon special root crops that are calorie-dense and yield well in a small area. These specic crops are: potatoes,sweet potatoes, parsnips, leeks, garlic, Jerusalem artichoke, and salsiy. A arm with 30% o its area in speciaroot crops maximizes its area-ecient production o calories and can grow a complete diet in the smallestspace possible.

Ater accounting or carbon crops and special root crops, the remaining 10% o area can grow vegetable cropsor a nutritionally diverse diet and a modest income. Orange and dark green vegetables can help boost im-portant vitamins and minerals in the diet, especially Vitamins A and C and iron.

With special root crops, nutritionally-rich vegetables, and the calorie-dense seeds from

carbon crops, a complete diet can be sustainably grown in a small area.

Remember that the purpose o the arm is to eedpeople! All armers are calorie armers, and smartarmers know which crops produce the most calories inthe smallest area, which crops give valuable nutrientsand which carbon-crops produce calorie-dense seeds.

GB Farmers Challenge:Slowly work yoursel toward growing your diet in the smallest area possible by adding

more o these special root crops into both your diet and your garden.

a PrinciPle 6: calorie farMinGa

HINT:Everything sold rom the arm contains organic

matter and nutrients that are not returned to thesoil. Consider choosing crops you will sell based on

minimizing nutrient loss. Plan to reclaim those

nutrientsmaybe customers can bring kitchenscraps to contribute to your compost.

Potatoes

Sweet Potatoes

Leeks

Garlic


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Goal: Maximize seed production andquality and preserve genetic diversity

Using open-pollinated (OP) seeds allows the armer to save seeds on the arm, providing or uture cropthrough growing healthy, locally acclimatized, resh seeds. This helps create a sel-sucient closed system byreducing dependence on large or small seed vendors, and by saving money. It is generally possible to grow althe seeds necessary or next years garden in about 3% additional area.

Seed savers must start with OP seeds. This is because hybridseeds have been crossed already, and do not have pure genes;seeds saved rom hybrid plants will not produce ospring thatare true to type (have appropriate characteristics or the variety).

Only ospring rom OP seeds will be true to type.

Saving seeds requires learning how specic crops reproduce.Some crops produce seed in one growing season (annuals),while others require two seasons or seed production (bienni-als). Some crops can sel-pollinate while others require pollenrom another plant to produce seed (cross-pollination). Thisinormation will help you learn how to grow the seed.

When growing seed in the garden, the armer must pay atten-

tion to the purity o the seed. Pure seed will produce true totype ospring, keeping the variety strong and consistent. Seedsrom some crops, like those that require cross-pollination, arenaturally more likely to become impurely crossed (hybrids) with a dierent variety or crop. Some plants will even crosswith wild relatives. To attend to seed purity it is wise to growmost crops or seed at a good distance rom other varieties andother crops in the same amily. For crops that cross readily,like corn, it may be advisable to grow only one variety eachseasonand that variety 2,000 t (610 m) rom other corn vari-

eties. Another method o isolating seed rom potential crossingis to grow varieties that mature at dierent times, so the pollenhas no opportunity to cross.

In addition to purity, genetic diversity is an important practice o good seed saving. Always save seed roma minimum o 5 plants, preerably more. (For corn at least 50 plants are needed.) You can never save seedrom too many plants (o the same variety). In this way your seed harvest has a wider range o genes andtraits. This will result in a healthy and diverse crop that will be better able to deal with various challenges olie, insects, climate, etc. Over time, seed saved consistently will be more acclimatized to local conditions andbe more genetically adapted to the area, a benet o careul seed saving.

a PrinciPle 7: oPen-PollinateD SeeDS a

A pollinator at work



13

Each type o seed generally has an average number o years it is able to germinate. A seed saver must attendto seed storage in such a way that the viability (ability to germinate) and vitality o the seed are supportedConditions that are ideal or seed storage are the opposite o conditions that are good or germination. Forexample, seeds stored in airtight containers in cool and dark places are likely to remain viable longer than

seeds stored in open containers in warm, sunny places.

GB Farmers Challenge:Start small and grow one crop out to seed the rst season. Start with a simple crop like dry beans or lettuce. Add

other crops over time to produce most o or all o your arms seeds.

Using companion planting, arming or carbon and calories, and using open-pollinated seeds are like choos-ing the strongest material to make the three-legged stool, so it will truly last. They are actions o intention.They allow GB to produce enough compost and ood to truly build and sustain the soil, to eed the armerand help the arm approach sustainability.

Lactuca sativa (lettuce), in its seed-producing phase


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Goal: Integrate all the principlesinto your garden to create balance

GB is a unied arming method, with all eight principlesplaying an important role in creating a thrivingmini-ecosystem that sustains itsel and its armers. The closer you can come to a closed system, the moresustainable your arming methods will be.

I, instead o using all the principles on your arm, some principles are used and others are discarded, yoursoil may eventually be in worse condition than when you began. For example, deep soil cultivation partneredwith intensive planting but without the benets o compost may strip the soil o ertility and structureSimilarly, adding more than a sustainably produced amount o compost or extra biological ertilizer mayimprove crop yields or a ew years, but lead to soil imbalances that could cause uture insect and disease issuesand a less-healthy soil. Not growing enough compost material on your own arm may be depleting your soior lack o the compost needed to hold minerals in your soil. Buying materials to build compost may depletesomeone elses land.

The benets o patient and consistent work necessary to create the healthy soil and the crop diversity inherenin the GB method will be evident over time. Though crops may struggle during the rst years in challengingsoil, or insect pests may be an initial problem, careul attention to all eight principles will transorm the arminto a vigorous ecosystem that grows healthy, high-yielding crops and can keep insect pests in balance.

GB requires armers to act with thought and oresight, recognizing that the arm itsel is part o a greater eco

system that should be thriving. Keeping hal o your land in the wild, i possible, nurtures the plant, insectand animal diversity that surround the arm and provides a buer that allows it to exist and thrive. In urbansettings, perhaps an area or native fowers, shrubs, and trees can be a welcome space or visitors that also helpssupport a larger ecosystem.

This nal principle is the essential top o the stool so that, when all other principles are considered, you cansit and rest with the satisaction that the stool is well ormed, strong and beautiul!

Ultimate GB Farmers Challenge:When considering any one aspect o the garden, always remember that all things are connected and that only a

healthy soil will produce healthy crops. Only a healthy system can sustain a healthy soil. Challenge yoursel andyour neighbors to become aware o and to nurture the WHOLE ecosystem!

GROW BIOINTENSIVE Sustainable Mini-Farming is an exciting recognition that armers are importantpeople who care or other people and or the land. Be creative as you remember each o the goals and work to-ward creating a thriving mini-ecosystem on your arm. Ask yoursel i your actions uphold the goal and moveyou toward sustainability. Be patient; knowledge and skill are things that are built by practice, dedicationand timejust like soil. Ultimately, start small, do the best with what you have, and learn rom everythingyou do. As you master this, you hold a beautiul seed. As a armer, this seed o knowledge will be in youhands to nurture and to share!

a PrinciPle 8: whole SySteM aPProach a


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a next StePS a

NOTES

I you are ready to learn more, visit Bountiul Gardens (Ecology Action's International Mail Order Service)at www.bountiulgardens.org and consider getting How To Grow More Vegetables and Fruits, Nuts, Berries,Grains and Other Crops Than You Ever Thought Possible On Less Soil Than You Can Imagine,and/or TheSustainable Vegetable Garden.

Also, or more inormation on events, tours,workshops, tips, publications, videos and more, you may want to visit:www.growbiointensive.org

www.commongroundinpaloalto.orgwww.johnjeavons.ino

www.renewallgardenproject.net

ABOUT THE AUTHORMargo Royer-Miller was a Three-Year Ecology Action Apprentice, and aterwards acted as a

GROW BIOINTENSIVE Field Coordinator at the Golden Rule Mini-Farm Garden.She now lives on her own mini-arm with her husband Dan and their son Alten Lee.


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Bio Intensive Farmers Handbook

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