Latest Word!Welcome to a the continuing study of

Billiards.

 

 

This section is devoted to billiard study material that would normally be includ-ed in a Billiard Atlas Book On Systems and Techniques, probably Volume V---and now offered as a free site to the players of the world.

New information will be added on a regular basis. Hope you enjoy the variedareas of study.

 

  Turkish Delight

Shown below, is an uncomplicated system donated by Turkey's Murat Tuzul.

The cue ball employs a dead ball hit (one cue tip above center). Avoid afollow-through stroke and use soft speed.

The first rail hit spot (point of aim) = the cue ball origin number minus the (third raildesired hit spot plus 50% of that number).

Use the rail edge for all numbers.  Note that the first rail hit spot of zero is dif-ficult to hit (on the short rail) --- use a hit spot of about 2 instead of the exact corner.

This method can determine the desired path off an object ball.

One cue tip of side english, can alter the 3rd rail hit point by one diamond, but thisneeds practice.  This system can locate many cue ball paths.

Miscues

Along the cue ball’s horizontal axis , a safe maximum hit spot is where the center of the cue tip is 18mm away from the cue ball’s center---a caromball has similar results.

The diameter for a pool ball is 56mm diameters, and 61mm diameters forthe carom ball.

The cue ball’s miscue area is at 24mm away from center ball, and miscuesare sporadic at 21mm. Some miscues were evident at under 20mm on thesmaller ball---great care must be taken with chalking the cue tip.

The “double hit” area on a cue ball, is about 20mm from the cue ballcenter---the first hit determines the initial cue ball english---the second hitmay act like a brake, thus slowing the initial desired english---this doublehit can only be observed with a high speed camera.

This entire “double hit” subject is difficult to assess since this test wasshot by the robot, and Iron Willie has a very firm arm grip on the cue butt---thus, the stroke does not slow down.

In actual play, a player’s back hand slows down during the tip-ball con-

tact, and they may not have this second hit---each player slows his strokedifferently.

Note: Several factors were involved in the above test---level cue---fullfollow through stroke---medium cue ball speed--- normal cue ball coating---a cue stick that has a medium stiffness---various brand cues were used inthe tests---a 12mm cue tip was employed and the results depend somewhaton the tip diameter.

Note: The below information is confirmed by a high speed camera, one thattakes a maximum of 12,000 frames per second---tests were conducted byexperts Bob Jewett and Michael Shamos---others taking part were WaltHarris, Jim Buss and Hans de Jager. Test location was at Clawson Cue Com-pany, home of the Predator cues, during the week of November 2, 1998.

The Bridge Hand

A good billiard shot will fail if not made from a solid bridge, which is thefoundation upon which a player builds his or her stroke.

With good support on all sides, a three-finger bridge should form a solidtripod for support. A "closed" bridge is needed but an "open" bridge canbe used occasionally.

Comfort is one of the aspects you have to deal with in making a bridgeand at first may be uncomfortable, but not so after a prolonged practice.Once you get used to your solid foundation, you will never have to makefurther uncomfortable changes.

How tightly your bridge grips the shaft is a matter of personal taste, how-ever, it is best to retain slight contact on all sides of the shaft. If yoursseem too tight, use a bridge glove to allow the cue to move smoothlythrough the fingers.

"The more contact you maintain with the shaft, the lesslikely your stroke is to deviate when you actually execute a shot."

If you start from the basics and adjust to the bridge that works for you,you will have a solid foundation and can then move on to other aspectsof the stroke and game without worrying about the bridge.

Ken Tewksbury, BCA Advanced Level Instructorcueball1@mediaone.net

Below, are two graphic examples---courtesy of the master instructors of Japan.

Bridge height adjustment

How to form an open bridge bridge

The Cue

Blomdahl once spoke about cue characteristics and mentioned thatthe key ingredient in determining whether a cue hits well is theshaft. He went on to say he might go through a hundred shaftsbefore finding a good one.

Cuemaker Dennis Dieckman mentioned that he heard Kobayashiactually would go through several hundred shafts at Japan’sHelmstetter's factory, not just looking at them but playing withthem all before picking the three or four that he would use. SangLee also tests many shafts before selecting one. Komori on theother hand would take whatever shafts Helmstetter gave him andplay with them without comment.

The problem with a wood shaft is that it has properties that arenot homogeneous. Some parts of the wood shaft are stronger andhave more density than other parts---because of the grain.

An example of this shown when a piece of wood is splintered andthe broken portion follows the curved grain line.

This grain line may not have the hitting quality of the shaft in theactual center of the shaft, but off-center.

If fiberglass or metal were used for shafts, it would not have a

grain to deal with. The shaft would hit evenly throughout and thecenter of the shaft density would never be off-center---but awood shaft is much more desirable.

Dennis further mentioned that his order of grain importance istightness, straightness, then color. Dennis further mentioned thatit’s very important for a player to get at least two shafts with acustom cue and that they be weight matched.

Shafts can vary in density and thus in finished weight. Player’susually use the shaft that most closely matches the feel orbalance they are looking for and seldom use the other because ofthe weight difference. They do not realize that the two shaftsmay not be matched and just use the one that "feels better.”

From a different perspective, Raymond Ceulemans once commentedon what is the most important part of the cue.  "The only thing thatmatters to me is the tip.  Give me a good tip on a broomstick and Iwould still beat everybody."

Bob Byrne related a story where Ceulemans once said that whenhe found a good tip, he would remove it from his shaft and save itfor future use since he favored a good tip that is broken in.

As new cue information arrives it will be added here---check back

A Good Tip

During the 2001 Las Vegas World Cup, many of the world’s best 3-Cplayer’s were surveyed on what cue tips they use, along with othercue data.

It seems that most Belgium players stayed with tradition, which is touse a smaller tip size, while most other top players use tip sizes bet-ween 11.5 and 12.0 mm.

Name Tip Size mm

TipMake Type Shaft type

Bitalis 11.4 Mori Hard Extra StiffBlomdahl 12.0 Mori Medium Varies with tableCeulemans 12.0 Triangle Medium StiffDeBacker 11.6 Mori Medium Medium StiffDielis   9.5 Chandivert Hard StiffHabraken 11.0 LePro Medium StiffJaspers 11.7 Mori Medium Stiff

Leppens 10.5 Mori Medium Extra StiffPiedrabuena 12.0 Mori Medium Medium StiffSang Lee 12.0 Mori Medium Medium StiffSayginer 12.0 Mori Medium StiffTheriaga 12.0 Mori Medium StiffSanetti 12.0 Chandivert Medium Medium Stiff

While all were quizzed on their tip size and shaft configuration selections, DickJaspers summed up this subject best by stating that the 12 mm size was best forpower shots, while the 11.5 size handled cue ball spin best---an 11.7 mm tip washis selection.

In my 3-C travels, it seems that the average 3-C player does not use a cue thathas tip and shaft configurations that compares to the above.

Incidently, most new cues come with inexpensive tip material.

The stiff shaft allows for much better cue ball deflection, thus much better objectball hits---same for 12mm tip sizes---yet, having a good feel for cue ball spin, is important.

Ball Polish

For those players who desire cue ball slide, a certain product is availableand is listed below---coatings are not to affect the cushion edge, or thecue tip.

The 3-M corporation has one liquid as the cleaner and the other liquidas the final finish---the cleaner is named “Finesse-It” and the final finishis named “3-M Liquid Polish, Clear Coat Face”---this is a two coatoperation and can be hand buffed or machine buffed, to a final gloss---usually found at automobile supply stores.

Corner Pocket in Ft Lauderdale Florida, and Master Billiards in NewYork, use this type of ball conditioning.

Top pocket billiard players are known for not liking this type of ball “slide”---someday, somewhere, a 9-ball event will feature this type of cue ballslide, and the locals will have the advantage---maybe China ?

Ten Second Lesson

At the 1999 Las Vegas World Cup I asked Raymond Ceulemanswhat would be the most important "stroke advice" he would offerthe average player.

"Try to move only the arm below the elbow and do not use muchwrist for most shots", was his reply..

Much can go wrong if you do not follow his advice. This has a lot to dowith losing control of the shot and becoming a better player. 

It’s easy to classify billiard players; those who stroke the ball correctly,and those who do not. For example, most players move their head orupper body as they strike the cue ball…notice this when observing others.  

The player must stay motionless until the cue ball is gone. Peeking at theshot too quickly causes problems such as slightly pulling up and not follow-ing through completely. 

Shoot most shots without using much wrist, especially short angle shots.The forearm and hand work as a unit and have much more control of thecue ball with better results.

Once practiced, your stroke will magically improve.

A Ladder Tournament

River City Miracle

In Wichita, I selfishly organized these locals recently using Bondzinski'sladder club concept so that they could see their averages and have theirhearts on improvement. It worked too. There are 14 players. In one monththey've played over 100 games and the housemen are cleaning the tableeveryday. Without 4 pounds of chalk, they play longer and rather well.

Then, I make available the Atlas books for those that stand still long enoughto read a select page or two. Most will.

Those of us that rely on the books and our working our way through them(one new thing at a time) "call our shots" to each other, so we can compareand discuss the many approaches. It's a minor miracle, right here in RiverCity. One guy will say, "Rising Sun," another offers, "Dead Ball here", "Sid","Walt's," "Sang Lee," "Plus," all those familiar names in the books.

Here's the punch-line: "these writings have given even Wichita a body of infor-mation that is improving play and interest in the game...not just for students and3 cushion fanatics, like me, but for the newcomers and converted pool playersin town. The way these books play a part in the improvement of the game isprobably greater than Walt will ever know."

Author of the above, David from Wichita, Kansas , December 12, 1998 <DKS411@aol.com> Ladder expert, Frank Bondzinski,1301 Ironwood Dr.Mount Prospect, IL 60056.

Simple Reverse-the-Rail System (Cho-dan-cho)

One of Korea's World Class Players CHUL MIN KIM donated  this simplereverse-the rail system.

Table and ball conditions vary so you may have to adjust a little....a level cuewith a full follow through stroke is needed....shoot softly for desired cue ballspin....Cho-dan-cho makes billiard life easier. 

Q-ball at 20 on short rail---Object balls at 10 on short rail.20 + 10 = 30     Aim point on long rail is 30.

99 to 1

Many thanks to Sancho, the Frenchman, for locating this fourth rail cue ball path---which originates from the short rail (A)--- to a target on the opposite short rail(B)---with numbers as shown.

The odds of scoring a billiard here are 99 to 1 !

Example: Cue ball (Q) origin = 25---fourth rail destination = 30.

Select a point on the origin rail (A) that is opposite the fourth rail target on (B)(which is 30)---then divide by 2 (which is 15), this is the base line.

Formula is: Origin on  rail (A) is 25, minus 15 = 10---aim at 10 on rail (B).

  Cue ball origins from 15 to 0 are outside the system limits

Greek Backout

Antonios Gallopoulos, a 3-Cushion systems player from Greece, donated thisunique "Backout" system.

If cue ball is at position "5 or 12" and first ball (Red) is at position "5 - 3"  thefirst rail hit point is 5.      If cue ball is at position "5 or 12" and first ball (Red) is at position "7 + 4" thefirst rail hit point is 12.     For other short rail cue ball origins put together the origin rail multiplier and firstball (red ball) number and make the calculation e.g. as in the drawing. (cue ballorigin number is at 3x).3 x 7 + 4 = 25  when red ball is at position "7 + 4".3 x 5 - 3  = 12  when red ball is at position "5 - 3".

Two Thirds System

Here's another short angle gem from Greece (where the angle into the first

rail is less then 45 degrees).

Antonios Gallopoulos has simplified the Billiard Atlas's "two thirds" system---and it becomes "3/2"

Suppose we want an arrival at diamond 3---multiply 3 x 3/2 = 4.5

On the line 4.5 to 0, find a spot on the wall , aim the cue ball---et viola !!

Center Cue ball hit---soft stroke---spot on the wall distance is important---for distance, use the distance from the cue ball's origin rail to the first rail.

Latest Word Note: With practice, a player can use this aim point and add one,two, or three tips of side english to the cue ball---each tip of side english adds1/3 of diamond to the third rail hit point---an excellent drill for accuracy---notethat a center cue hit can spell path trouble on certain tables.

A short angle example is shown here:

Billiard Posters from Professorqball

Thanks to Paul Frankel, the billiard world can finally see large colored postersshowing "systems and techniques"

One poster shows the important "Ball System"---the other shows the "BernieSystem"---both nice to know.