Bicycle Cargo Trailer 200lb Capacity - $30 in Parts
24
http://www.instructables.com/id/Bicycle-cargo-trailer--200-lb-capacity%2c-%2430-for-pa/ Home Sign Up! Browse Community Submit All Art Craft Food Games Green Home Kids Life Music Offbeat Outdoors Pets Photo Ride Science Tech Bicycle cargo trailer--200 lb capacity, $30 for parts by aaron on March 19, 2006 Table of Contents License: Attribution Non-commercial Share Alike (by-nc-sa) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 Intro: Bicycle cargo trailer--200 lb capacity, $30 for parts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 step 1: Obtain parts and tools . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 step 2: Cart Fabrication overview . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 step 3: Fabrication of the parts: Main frame . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 step 4: Fabrication of the parts: Spine and one Rib . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 step 5: Fabrication of the parts: One rib and two wheel weels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 step 6: Fabrication of the parts: Pulling arm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 step 7: Fabrication of the parts: Handle and third rib . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 step 8: Fabrication of the parts: Wheel Dropouts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 step 9: Miter the tubes to fit together for brazing/welding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 step 10: Aligning the frame for brazing/welding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 step 11: Safety considerations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 step 12: Creating the pulling arm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 step 13: Hitch creation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 step 14: Finishing the cart . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 step 15: Possibilities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 step 16: Buying and Selling carts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 Related Instructables . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 Advertisements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 Comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
-
Upload
skyboundguy -
Category
Documents
-
view
180 -
download
0
Transcript of Bicycle Cargo Trailer 200lb Capacity - $30 in Parts
http://www.instructables.com/id/Bicycle-cargo-trailer--200-lb-capacity%2c-%2430-for-pa/
Home Sign Up! Browse Community Submit
All Art Craft Food Games Green Home Kids Life Music Offbeat Outdoors Pets Photo Ride Science Tech
Bicycle cargo trailer--200 lb capacity, $30 for partsby aaron on March 19, 2006
Table of Contents
License: Attribution Non-commercial Share Alike (by-nc-sa) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Intro: Bicycle cargo trailer--200 lb capacity, $30 for parts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
step 1: Obtain parts and tools . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
step 2: Cart Fabrication overview . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
step 3: Fabrication of the parts: Main frame . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
step 4: Fabrication of the parts: Spine and one Rib . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
step 5: Fabrication of the parts: One rib and two wheel weels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
step 6: Fabrication of the parts: Pulling arm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
step 7: Fabrication of the parts: Handle and third rib . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
step 8: Fabrication of the parts: Wheel Dropouts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
step 9: Miter the tubes to fit together for brazing/welding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
step 10: Aligning the frame for brazing/welding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
step 11: Safety considerations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
step 12: Creating the pulling arm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
step 13: Hitch creation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
step 14: Finishing the cart . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
step 15: Possibilities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
step 16: Buying and Selling carts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
Related Instructables . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
Advertisements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
Comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
http://www.instructables.com/id/Bicycle-cargo-trailer--200-lb-capacity%2c-%2430-for-pa/
License: Attribution Non-commercial Share Alike (by-nc-sa)
Intro: Bicycle cargo trailer--200 lb capacity, $30 for partsThis bicycle trailer is made from 1/2" EMT conduit that is bent and brazed into a frame. It uses scavenged bicycle wheels, has a plywood cargo bed, and can be modifiedfor any use easily. The frame alone weighs 15lbs, and with a hitch, plywood, and wheels it weighs 25lbs or so. It carries 200 lbs safely, and it can haul up to 450 lbscarefully.
Image Notes1. pushing handle2. 5/8" plywood cargo bed3. bicycle pulling arm4. 26" (or 24", 700c, 27") front bicycle wheels
Image Notes1. a new design that i recommend for most uses over the one featured here. seecomments below for obtaining the plans.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Bicycle-cargo-trailer--200-lb-capacity%2c-%2430-for-pa/
step 1: Obtain parts and toolsTool list1/2" conduit benderhack sawtape measuremarkerpunch (or nail)hammervice1/8" bit and 3/8"drillhalf round fileoxy-acetylene torch or arc welderplentiful brass brazing rodbrazing flux. goggles, and glovesbricks for holding frameframing square / "L" layout tool
Finding and Buying PartsYou can find a lot of the parts, particularly if you're near a metal dumpster or a building renovation that might be ripping out conduit. Metal shops often have scraps of flatstock that you might be able to take.
Wheels: Go with what you can find. Feel lucky if you have the option of mountain bike wheels over road bike wheels. The dimensions given here are for carts with 26",27", or 700c wheels. If you use 24" wheels, you can reduce the cart depth by 1", and if you use 20" wheels reduce the dimensions by 3" (spine and ribs dimensions).700c and 27" wheels work, but ther're less strong, particularly laterally, which is important when you're hauling a load around corners.
Find wheels at bike shops or in the dumpsters out back. I've had good luck asking bike shops for old wheels, and in college metal recycling dumpsters. Make sure youget 2 of the same diameter, with the diameters within 1/2" or so with the tires on. You can get tubes with small punctures behind bike shops.
Another wheel possibility: It's easiest to use 2 front wheels because they will have the same hub spacing. However, you can use a front wheel and a rear wheel if youmake one of the wheel wells longer and increase the hub spacing for the rear wheel to 4 3/4", instead of 4". Or measure your wheels exactly. Hardware stores carry theEMT conduit and hardware.
You will save some money if you can find scrap 3/16" by 1" bar, plywood and 3/8" ID tubing. Try metal dumpsters, scrap bins at machine shops and mechanics' garages,etc.
In the store, hardware parts are generally less expensive in the bulk bins than in pre-packaged boxes. I can't find rod end ball joints anywhere accept mail order (I'veused McMaster-Carr). The shaft should be 1 1/4" or more, and have threads that are 3/8"-24 or 3/8"-16. (The 24 and 16 refer to threads per inch.) Get a nut to match thethreads. The hole through the ball should be 3/8" wide. You can order it from mcmaster.com. It is part 6072K64 for the oil-impregnated bronze race with a chrome platedsteel ball and right hand threads. It costs $5.92 without shipping. I think shipping is $3 or $4. You might consider getting a welding respirator ($12) from McMaster-Carr atthe same time.
For plywood, ask at a lumber yard if they have scrap wood. Building renovations and construction also generate waste plywood that will work fine.
Using the toolsTo use a conduit bender, line up your bend mark with the arrow on the bender. Step on the foot plate, while pushing down and pulling sideways on the handle of thebender. Bend until the bubble level reads level with no force on the handle.
Working with metal in this project is easy, but takes some practice. To cut with a hacksaw, make sure the piece is clamped well and the cut is close to the clamp. Use thefull length of the blade, pushing down hard enough to cut but not hard enough to bind the blade. Use steady, even strokes pushing forward. Don't press down hard on thereturn stroke. Hold both the back and front of the saw.
When using files, the cutting happens on the forward stroke. Pulling back with downward pressure on the file will only dull the file.
To cut with a tube cutter, align the mark with the cutting wheel and tighten the screw just enough to score the metal all the way around the tube. Tighten a little more andcontinue turning the tool, ensuring that the cut is in the original groove. Continue around the tube. This tool is useful for the conduit, but a hacksaw is more reliable.
To braze with an oxy-acetylene torch, it's a good idea to get a lesson from someone who knows how. Always set the regulator carefully and keep the tanks well securedso they could not fall. Use gloves, #5 shade eye protection, and work on non-combustible surfaces. Keep fire-extinguishing paraphernalia present. Work with goodventilation, especially with galvanized conduit.
To drill into metal, make a starting dent with a punch or nail, and drill a small hole at high speed with a sharp metal bit. To enlarge it, use a lower speed and watch out forthe bit catching as it breaks through the material. Always drill into material secured in a vice or by clamps.
General safety: Wear gloves when things are hot, don't wear gloves with spinning tools. Wear safety glasses when there are chips flying (drilling, cutting). Wear long non-synthetic, non-flammable clothes when working with the torch. Wear closed-toe shoes or boots. Don't breathe fumes from cutting, heating, or painting. Have fun and takecare of yourself so you can ride your bike and pull your bike cart and tell your friends how great it is to not use a car.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Bicycle-cargo-trailer--200-lb-capacity%2c-%2430-for-pa/
step 2: Cart Fabrication overviewFabrication Breakdown (more detail in next steps)
Get 5 pieces of 1/2" EMT conduit and cut and bend in the following manner:
Piece #1:Full length. Mark and bend at 2", 41", 61", and 100". Overlap the last 2".
Piece #2:Cut at 59". bend 6 1/2" from each end to make a "U" (spine)Cut at 38 1/2". bend 5 3/4" from each end to make a "U" (rib 1)
Piece #3:Cut at 38 1/2". bend 5 3/4" from each end to make a "U" (rib 2)Cut at 38 1/2". bend at 3/4" from each end to make a "U" (wheel well 1)Cut at 38 1/2". bend at 3/4" from each end to make a "U" (wheel well 2)
Piece #4:Cut at 50" and bend a 45 degree bend 10" from end (bottom pulling arm)Cut at 51", and bend a 45 degree bend 11" from end (top pulling arm)Cut a 15" piece (arm brace)
Piece #5:Cut a 72" piece. Bend at 26" from each end to make a "U" (handle)From flat stock: (1" by 3/16" thick): make (4) 1 1/2" long dropouts with a 3/8" slot.
*Miter the ends of the tubes with a file to fit as shown in the assembly diagram.
*Braze the main-frame, ribs, and spine together.
*Make a dropout jig. each set of dropouts is 4" apart, and space the sets at 22 1/2".
*Put the dropouts in the jig and support the jig level from the ground so that the wheel wells rest on the outside dropouts, and the inside dropouts contact the center rib.Braze.
*Braze the two pulling arm pieces together as shown in the assembly diagram.
*Braze the pulling arm to the front and center ribs. Add the arm-brace.
*Drill a hole in the pulling arm at the end, and attach a 2" long 3/8" bolt as shown.
*Make a hitch out of 1" by 3/16" flat stock, 1/4" rod, and a 3/8" ID tube as shown.
*Make an extended wing nut, attach 2 front bicycle wheels to the cart, paint the joints.
*Add a plywood bed made that is 19" by 38" with notches cut for the ribs and spine.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Bicycle-cargo-trailer--200-lb-capacity%2c-%2430-for-pa/
step 3: Fabrication of the parts: Main frameFrom the first piece of 1/2" EMT (10' long)
*This piece will be the main frame. With all tubes, make all marks before bending.
*Mark at all the following lengths from one end before bending. Make a small star symbol at the starting end to signify start bending from this side. Mark at 2", 41", 61",and 100".
*Make a dotted line at 118". This will be the mark to which the tube overlaps when it is bent into a rectangle. Eventually, the last 2 inches will be cut off, but the tube isbent with the 2 inches to allow adjustment if the bends are uneven.
*Bend 4 bends to make rectangular shape. With each bend, make sure that the previous bend is in the same plane. Line it up by eye, and fix mistakes by hand.
*Holding the two ends of the tube in overlap of 2", measure the width of the frame at the front and back, before the bends. It should be around 22" or 22 1/2". If the frontand back are unequal distances, you can cut off more or less than 2" from the end of the tube. Cut approximately 2" off the end of the tube. Bend the frame by hand sothat the two mating tubes are in line with each other.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Bicycle-cargo-trailer--200-lb-capacity%2c-%2430-for-pa/
step 4: Fabrication of the parts: Spine and one RibFrom the second piece of 1/2" EMT (10' long)
*Cut a piece 59" long, which will be the spine. Cut a piece 38 1/2" long, which will be one of the two ribs.
*Mark the spine at 6 1/2" from each end.
*Bend from each end to create a wide "U" shape, as shown.
*Mark the rib at 5 3/4" from each end.
*Bend from each end to make another "U" shape, as shown.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Bicycle-cargo-trailer--200-lb-capacity%2c-%2430-for-pa/
step 5: Fabrication of the parts: One rib and two wheel weelsFrom the third piece of 1/2" EMT (10' long)
*Cut another piece 38 1/2" long, which will be the second rib. Mark and bend this rib like the first.
*Cut two pieces 38 1/2" long, which will be the two wheel wells.
***NOTE: If you are going to be using rear wheels for the cart, and don't want to take out the spacers (with hub adjustment), you should add 1 inch to the length of thewheel wells, and cut at 39 1/2" If you don't add length, but use the wider rear hubs, the wheel wells will have less of a slope downward and will be a little weaker. (Tovisualize this, think about the wheel wells as a part of a structural triangle, from the back of the bike cart looking forward.) You can use any combination of front and rearwheels as long as the diameters are within 1/2".
*Mark the wheel wells at 3/4" from each end. Bend into "U"shapes, as shown.
***Note again. If you added an inch to the wheel wells above, mark the wheel wells 1 1/4" from each end.
step 6: Fabrication of the parts: Pulling armFrom the fourth piece of 1/2" EMT (10' long)
*Cut a piece 50" long. This will be the bottom arm. Mark and bend a 45-degree bend at 10" from one end.
*Cut a piece 51" long. This will be the top arm. Mark and bend a 45-degree bend at 11" from one end.
*Cut a piece 15" long. This will be the arm brace, and will be cut down more once the arm is on the cart.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Bicycle-cargo-trailer--200-lb-capacity%2c-%2430-for-pa/
step 7: Fabrication of the parts: Handle and third ribFrom an optional fifth piece of 1/2" EMT
If you don't want a handle, you can save some time and money by skipping the fifth piece which makes an optional third rib and the handle. The handle adds quite a bit ofversatility and usability to the cart.
*Cut a third rib that is 38 1/2" long. This is a nice piece for easy attachment of the bed, but is not necessary structurally. Bend at 5 3/4" from each end. Position it where itfits at the back of the cart, mitered where it connects to the main frame and in contact with the spine.
*Cut a piece 72" long. This will be the handle. Mark and bend the handle 26" from each end into a "U" shape. Make sure that the angles are 90 degrees at each bend, orthe cart will have a visibly crooked handle.
step 8: Fabrication of the parts: Wheel DropoutsFrom the 3/16" X 1" flat stock
*Cut four pieces 1 1/2" long.
*With a nail or a punch and hammer, make a small dent in the middle of the material (3/4" and 1/2" from the edges). Put the piece in a vice, or clamp it really well. Drill a1/8" pilot hole, and then enlarge to 3/8".
*Using a hacksaw, cut in from the end to meet the hole. The slot should be 3/8" wide. Make sure your wheel axles fit in the slots. Finish the slot with a file.
*File off the sharp edges.
*Repeat, to make a total of 4 dropouts.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Bicycle-cargo-trailer--200-lb-capacity%2c-%2430-for-pa/
step 9: Miter the tubes to fit together for brazing/weldingMitering fits the end of one tube with the side of another, to make brazing strong and easy. Miter with half round file or hole saw that makes a 3/4" miter. File the tube enduntil there is a good fit between the miter and another piece of tubing.
Note: make sure the miters go the right direction and are in parallel or perpendicular planes to the rest of the tube. Each miter should only take about a minute. If it takeslonger, use stronger strokes (pushing forward only). To determine which direction to miter, refer to the image of the assembled cart, or below.
*Miter the wheel wells, cutting parallel to the bottom of the "U".
*Miter the ribs cutting perpendicular to the tube (opposite from wheel wells).
*Miter the ends of the spine, cutting perpendicular to the tube.
*Miter one end of the arm brace. The other end will be cut straight at an angle later.
*Miter the handle, cutting parallel to the bottom of the "U".
Image Notes1. The closer you can get to a "perfect fit", the easier the welding will be. Spend time here, instead of trying to fill in holes with brass or steel welding rod.
step 10: Aligning the frame for brazing/weldingThe first brazes attach the ribs and spine to the main frame. The cart is upside down for this part.
*Place the main frame on a flat fire-proof surface. Paint flux on the ends of the tubes and inside of the coupling, and slip the two tubes inside the coupling as far as theywill go, ensuring that there is flux at the edge of the joint. If the tubes spring back out, bend them in.
*Measure 19" from the back end of the main frame. Use a square to get even measures on each side of the frame. Mark on the side of the tube, so the mark is visiblewhen a tube is placed on top.
*Place one of the ribs between the two marks. Check to see if the miters fit well. If the tube does not fit, bend by hand until it does. Support this rib with bricks, magnets,or other metal scraps, but not right in the center, where the spine will be.
*Mark for the front rib 16 1/2" in front of the marks for the center rib. This positioning is not exact, but should be right where the bends start on the main frame. The frontrib needs to stay out of the way of the wheel well. Adjust to fit, and support this rib as well. Do the same for the back rib.
*Mark the center of the front and back ends of the main frame by marking half-way points on the table where the sides are parallel, then by drawing a line through thosepoints to the main frame end pieces. Lay the spine over the ribs.
*Once the pieces are centered, vertical, aligned, plumb, flush, or otherwise how you want them to be, take them all off and coat each surface that will be brazed with flux.Replace all the pieces.
*Read the brazing information on the following pages. Braze the frame together, starting with the ribs. If the spine does not sit perfectly on the ribs, tilt the ribs towards thecurve of the spine until there is contact, or bend the spine down to make contact.
Creating the dropout jigNote: These measurements assume that you are using 2 front wheels from bikes, with 4" distance between the outside surfaces of the locknuts. If you are using rearhubs or hubs with a different spacing make an appropriate adjustment in the jig.
*If you are lucky enough to find 20" wheels, measure the axle width, adjust the dropout jig, make the wheel wells shorter by 6 inches or so, and take off 3 inches off ofeach side of the ribs and spine to keep the same clearance. (Axle height on a 26" wheel is 13", and on a 20" wheel it's 10".) If your wheels are strong, the cart with 20"wheels should be more stable and stronger than a cart with larger wheels. Move the wheel wells and center rib back by 6 inches to stabilize the cart. If you are going tobe making several trailers, I suggest using nylon nuts for this jig. If you are making just one trailer, you could make a cheaper jig from wood or metal rod. As an alternativeto nylon nuts, use 2 regular nuts tightened together.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Bicycle-cargo-trailer--200-lb-capacity%2c-%2430-for-pa/
*Measure the width of the center rib from the outside of the one mitered end to the outside of the other end. Center to center will be about 22, and outside to outside willbe about 22 3/4". Take your measurement, and subtract 1/4" (to allow the dropouts to sit well against the tube). It will be about 22 1/2".
*Thread on a wing nut on each side, with the flat side of the nut facing out. Slide on two 3/8" washers on each side.
*Thread 2 nylon nuts onto the threaded rod, one from each end. (The side without the nylon has to go on first.) To hold the rod while threading, you can thread tworegular nuts onto the opposite end of the rod and tighten them together. Hold this end in a vice or another wrench.
*Thread the first nylon nut 6" onto the end of the rod. Thread the other nylon nut on the other far enough so the distance from the outside of the two washers is the sameas the distance measured along the center rib, minus 1/4" (see above, probably 22 1/2" or so).
*Thread another nylon nut onto each side, so that the distance between the two nylon nuts and two of the washers is the same as the spacing for your wheels. For 26"mountain bike wheels, this distance is 4". For road bike wheels, the distance may be less, down to 3 7/8". If you're using rear wheels, it might be 4 3/4" or more.
*Slide on two more washers on each side. Thread on one more wing nut.
Adding wheel wells and dropouts*Turn the frame right side up. It will rest on just the spine. Place 4 bricks under the front and back ribs to make the main frame parallel to the ground.
*Place a dropout between each set of washers on the dropout jig(4 sets). Align them on a flat surface with all the slots in the same direction. Tighten the wing nuts.
*Use 4 rubber bands or string to get the wheel wells snug against the main frame.
*Find and mark the centers of the wheel wells (about 16" from each side).
*Place the dropout jig with dropouts on bricks/metal scraps, etc, just behind the center rib. It should be at such a height so that when the wheel wells come down to reston the outside dropouts, the inside edge of the tube restswith the dropouts. Note: if the dropouts are centered on the tubes, or too far from the wheel-side of the tube, there could be clearance issues with the spokes hitting thetubes, especially on 700c and 27" wheels. See diagrams.
*When everything is aligned nicely, apply flux, and braze the wheel wells onto the main frame.
*Make a small tack braze on each dropout. Remove the jig before brazing the dropouts completely, or the nylon in the washers will melt or the nuts could get brazed tothe dropouts. Brazing the dropouts to the rib will require much more heat than brazing two tubes together because of the wall thickness. To keep from burning through thetubes, aim the flame mostly at the dropout.each side, so that the flat sides of the nuts are facing the washers.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Bicycle-cargo-trailer--200-lb-capacity%2c-%2430-for-pa/
step 11: Safety considerationsSafety Considerations:VentilationRespiratory protectionEye ProtectionHeat Protection
Danger of welding galvanized metal (from cutting, welding, and brazing) You are heating galvanized metal, which is coated in zinc. The zinc will burn off and oxidize inthe air, creating zinc oxide. Breathing zinc oxide can cause Metal Fume Fever. According to the American Welding Society, Metal Fume Fever causes flu-like symptomsincluding headache, fever, chills, muscle aches, thirst, nausea, vomiting, chest soreness, fatigue, gastrointestinal pain, weakness, and tiredness. Symptoms start severalhours after exposure and last 6 to 24 hours. The American Welding Society claims that there are no known long-term affects from Metal Fume Fever.
Ventilation:*Braze outside. Portability is one nice thing about oxy-acetylene torches.*Keep air moving across the work, with a fan or align yourself with wind so that the smoke blows sideways. (If your back is to the wind, your body will stop the airflow infront of your face.)*Don't breathe the smoke plume.*Keep your head back from and never above the area that you are brazing.*Watch the ends of tubes, because fumes will escape from them.
In the process of designing and learning to build bike trailers with galvanized conduit, I got metal fume fever twice, through carelessness. You should be careful, and Ithink it is possible to braze EMT conduit safely. The sickness felt like the head and body ache that are symptoms of influenza. I felt dehydrated and tired. I felt fine thenext morning.
Respiratory Protection:If you cannot ensure adequate ventilation, wear an N95 (or higher) type respirator. You can buy a N99 filter respirator from McMaster-Carr for $11.09 (Part #53565T2).The instructions say it;s good for 8 hours of breathing through, or until it gets hard to breathe through. 2 replacement filters are $5.61. I don;t like buying from large mail-order corporations, but if the tradeoff is getting sick or not building a bike cart, I will do it.
Eye protection:Use #5 shade eye protection. If you look at the flame for a second, you;re not going to lose your sight, but it;s bright and bad for your eyes, a bit worst than looking at thesun. I've heard that you're eyes are safe 10 feet back from the flame.
Heat Protection:Use gloves to touch the metal that you are working on. The brazing rod will get hot close to the end.
Metal Fume Fever Information
According to the American Welding Society, Metal Fume Fever is an illness caused by exposure to zinc oxide, a chemical present in fumes from welding and brazinggalvanized metal. The symptoms of metal fume fever are flu-like, including headache, nausea, fever, fatigue, and chills. Symptoms start several hours after exposure andlast 6 to 24 hours, although total recovery might not be for 48 hours. High levels of exposure may cause metallic taste in mouth, dry and irritated throat, and coughing.Several hours after exposure, you may have a fever (lower than 102 degrees F, then chills before returning to normal). The OSHA standard for zinc oxide exposure is 5miligrams per cubic meter of air averaged over an 8 hour work shift. NIOSH uses the same 5 mg per m3 (cubic meter), but suggests that it is permissible for 10 hours perday, or 40 hours per week. They further permit a STEL (short term exposure limit) of 10 mg/m3 averaged over a 15 minute period. There is no published informationabout long term effects of zinc oxide exposure. (American Welding Society. Safety and Health Fact Sheet No. 25) Even though there are no known long term effects, itdoesn't make sense to expose yourself to zinc oxide and potentially suffer from Metal Fume Fever, because it's easy to prevent exposure. Brazing, as opposed towelding, produces fewer fumes because of the lower temperatures.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Bicycle-cargo-trailer--200-lb-capacity%2c-%2430-for-pa/
step 12: Creating the pulling arm*Line up the top and bottom arms together on a flat surface with the longer piece, with the hole in it, on the top. Make sure the pieces line up on the long straight side andat the bend. If they don't, bend them until they do. The arm should look like a backwards "L".
*Coat 2" sections of the tubes with flux at 8" intervals (or so) and braze the tubes together. Make it strong enough to be stiff but not overkill. Braze on both sides of thetubes.
*Let arm cool or dip in water. Place the cart on a flat surface with blocks under the ribs to keep them parallel to the ground. (The same position for brazing the wheel wellsand dropouts.)
*Support the arm with three piles of bricks/scrap metal so that the top of it is 1" below the bottom of the dropout on the center rib. This should be about 4 1/2" down fromthe main frame tube. If you are not using 26", 700c, or 27" wheels for the trailer, or if you are not going to make the trailer for a bike with a rear wheel of those sizes, youwill want to adjust this dimension. The goal is to have this arm be parallel to the ground and meet the bike 2 inches under the rear axle. The bottom of the trailer shouldbe at least 4" above the ground.
*Flux and braze the arm to the front and center ribs at the same height. This braze needs to be very strong.
*Measure the distance from the point just before the bend in the arm to the front of the spine at the same height. Cut the arm brace to fit here, ensuring that it intersectsthe arm at least 14 inches from the hole in the arm, and that the angled cut is aligned so that the mitered side fits the spine, and the angle has a decent fit with the arm.Again, accuracy is not that crucial. It just needs to be strong.
Image Notes1. Three 1/2" EMT compression couplings this pulling arm to be removed. It'sabout as strong as the fixed version, because the added height of the short tubesections increase the effective tube diameter by 3/4".
http://www.instructables.com/id/Bicycle-cargo-trailer--200-lb-capacity%2c-%2430-for-pa/
step 13: Hitch creationThe hitch is made from flat stock, a short tube, a rod, a ball joint, and a nut. It clamps onto the left side of the rear axle. There is a slot cut for the wheel's axle, a tube ordrilled-out female coupler to allow the ball joint to pivot, and a rod that is braced against the chainstay to keep the hitch from twisting around the axle.
*Start with a piece of the 1" X 3/16" flat stock that you used for the dropout jigs. This will be the hitch plate.
*Cut a piece 3" long.
*Drill a 3/8" hole for the axle 1/2" from the end and 1/2" from each side.
*From one side of the hitch plate, cut towards the hole so that there are 2 parallel cuts 3/8" apart that meet the hole at the widest part.
*Cut the other end at a 30 degree angle. Make the cut so that the shortest side is the side that has the slot cut into it. Make two more cuts to create a place for the balljoint nut to freely spin, as pictured.
*Clamp the slotted end of the piece in a vice at a 30 degree angle from vertical. Clamp it so that the slot is hidden in the vice by 1/2" and so that the end of the piece isparallel to the ground.
*Look at the hitch plate from the side so that the metal angles upward from the vice to the right. Hit the piece with a hammer away from your point of view to make a bendin the hitch plate away from the bike. The end of the piece should be bent until it is about 1/2" away from vertical. The purpose of this bend is to get the ball joint farenough away from the wheel that there are no clearance issues.
*Get a 3/8" threaded female coupler from a hardware store. It will probably be 1 3/4" long. Holding it firmly in a vice, drill out the threads with a 3/8" drill bit. If you havebits close in size to 3/8", start smaller and increase the dimension. If you don't, be really careful doing this part because the bit can grab the metal and twist the drillforcefully. Cut its length in half with a hacksaw. File smooth. This tube will hold the ball joint loosely so it can turn freely. Alternative: cut a 7/8" long piece of tubing thathas a 3/8" ID.
*Place the hitch plate on a flat surface so that the end with the slot is sticking up.
*Line up the tube along the angle of the hitch plate, so that the ball joint sticking out of the end could rotate freely. Make sure that there is enough room for a 3/8" nut(which has a 1/2" head) to spin freely at the end of the tube. This needs to be very strong.
*Cut a piece of 1/4" or 5/16" rod that is 8 inches long. Bend the end in the shape shown in the diagrams (a hook to go around the chainstay).
*Braze the rod onto the opposite side of the hitch plate, so that the straight end runs at the same angle as the cut, making sure that it does not hang over the edge of thecut. See diagram for details.
*Put the hitch on a bike through the left side axle. Loosely tighten the axle nut. With a vice, hammer, pliers, or your hands, bend the rod until it fits well on the chainstayand meets the rest of the hitch. The 3/8" ID tube needs to be parallel to the ground and the hooked arm should rest on the chainstay without interfering with the spokes ofthe wheel.
*File everything smooth. Paint the hitch. Once dry, attach the rod end ball joint through the tube, and secure it with a nylon lock-nut. Make sure the ball joint can spinfreely without play.
Image Notes1. This brace keeps the hitch from twisting around the axle.2. This is the most crucial weld on the cart, because its small and needs to bestrong. Give it enough heat to penetrate all the way around the tube and build up anice fillet.3. nylon locking nut4. Rod end ball joint. $6 from McMaster Carr.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Bicycle-cargo-trailer--200-lb-capacity%2c-%2430-for-pa/
Image Notes1. These bolts clamp a piece to the inside of the frame. The outer nuts are drilledto allow the bolts to pivot, and the inner nuts are threaded. This hitch is modelledafter the Bikes At Work commercial hitch. It's stronger than the bolted hitch, butharder to make, more expensive, and overkill for most loads.
Image Notes1. Bad paint choice.
step 14: Finishing the cart*Drill a 1/8" starter hole 1/2" from the end of the pulling arm, and enlarge to 3/8". This hole should be as close to vertical as possible.
*Crush the end of the pulling arm slightly around the bolt hole so a 3/8" nut just slides inside. Slide a 2" long 3/8" bolt through the arm, from the top to the bottom,threaded through the bolt inside the arm. Slip a 3/8" split-ring lock washer on, and then thread another 3/8" nut onto the end of the bolt and tighten it until the tube iscrushed around the interior nut. Thread one more 3/8" nut onto the bolt. Make it tight. Option: Braze the nuts and bolt together, and to the arm.
*Take a 3/8" wing nut and braze a 2" long piece of scrap metal onto the two wings. Use some of the rod from the hitch, or whatever you find. This will be the nut thatattaches the cart to the bike, and the wing nut extension allows removal without tools. (Alternative: use a 3/8" nut with a wrench.)
*Attach the wheels to the cart. If there are quick release skewers, put the levers on the outside of the cart.
*Paint the joints of the cart with an outdoor metal paint and/or primer. You don't need spray paint. Any anti-rust brush-on paint works. Paint the hitch too, but not theinside of the nuts (clamp hitch). Remove the ball joint before painting the hitch.
*Add a bed. Use 1/2" plywood that is 19" by 38". Use any kind of clamp to attach the bed to the ribs. Plumbing or conduit clamps work. Sheet metal strips with punchedholes are cheaper but more work. You could try plumbers' tape, screwing through the holes into the plywood. Cut slots in the plywood to fit the tubes where they curve.This part can be any kind of creative expression. Metal, driftwood, plastic, canvas, plywood, rope, glass--some ideas are better suited to certain applications.
*Make tie-down straps out of old bicycle tubes, with the valve cut off. Use bowline knots to attach them to the main frame.
*A nice option: Add something unique and special to the cart. My personal favorite is a pole with space for art and signs."One less car""Yes, I'm moving by bike""One less car; make it two?"
http://www.instructables.com/id/Bicycle-cargo-trailer--200-lb-capacity%2c-%2430-for-pa/
step 15: PossibilitiesThere are many variations on carts using these fabrication techniques and design principles. Please post or send me your photos and comments!
Image Notes1. "Deep and Long," 6' cart with 3/4" 0.049" wall mild steel tubing. 60 feet oftubing, and the cart weighs about 40 lbs.
Image Notes1. me (aaron) and my sister in the cart, at hampshire college, in amherst, ma2. Bus stop sign, aluminum. Cut and bent to create fenders and wheel guards atthe same time.
Image Notes1. I gave a fabrication manual to an Indian man that I met, and he had a few builtin India for the local community supported agriculture program with which he isinvolved. It looks like they didn't bend the tubes at all, but instead welded squaretube(?) together at the ends.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Bicycle-cargo-trailer--200-lb-capacity%2c-%2430-for-pa/
Image Notes1. These tubes keep stuff up off the wheels, and the back one is a pushinghandle as well. It's a bit low to push comfortably.
Image Notes1. Bent conduit keeps hitch pin from scraping against the ground.2. The little one is now redundant with the addition of the pushing handle,except for carrying sheets of plywood ot other boards.
Image Notes1. These three compression couplings allow the pulling arm to be removed forstorage, trasportation, or versatility. It's more labor intensive to make, but it'sstrong enough, I didn't notive a decrease of strength in pulling arm, partlybecause the arm is strengthened so much my adding the 3/4" of vertical heightbetween the two pulling arm tubes.
Image Notes1. The Halifax scavenger society built this cart, and modified the pulling arm toattach under the seat. They say it works well. I would worry about stabilityaround corners if he weight in the cart weren't well-balanced just in front of thewheels.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Bicycle-cargo-trailer--200-lb-capacity%2c-%2430-for-pa/
Image Notes1. Halifax Scavenger Society: their hitch design. I think this will torque thethreaded shaft of the ball joint too much with such a short sleeve.2. And you can see that they MIG welded thier cart. These welds look good, andare probably stronger than brazed joints. It takes more skill to MIG weld EMTconduit than it does to braze it, however, and the brazed joints are strongenough.
Image Notes1. lillifer
Image Notes1. Bolt-together cart. There's no welding involved, but it's much more timeintensive to make, and much less sturdy. Each joint has four 1/4" bolts. Thedropouts are made from 4" square metal electrical box covers, cut in half andslotted.
Image Notes1. the sign says, "yes, i'm moving by bike"
Image Notes1. deep and long with 5 bikes, including a tall bike.
Image Notes1. This pulling arm is designed to allow the wheelchair rider to swing the chairaround and access the cargo area of the trailer just by her left knee.2. Ingrid and I designed this cart for a wheelchair user to carry groceries andother cargo. Her kids wanted us to build pedals into it so they could ride andhelp propell the whole family along.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Bicycle-cargo-trailer--200-lb-capacity%2c-%2430-for-pa/
Image Notes1. This "Farm cart" lives at the food bank farm in Hadley, Mass. It's used forhauling stuff around the farm, either with a bike or with the push handle. This oneis made with 3/4" 0.049" wall mild steel tubing, and is sturdier and heavier thanthe EMT versions.
step 16: Buying and Selling cartsI have been working on this design since the spring of 2004. I'm hoping people will be excited about making carts for themselves, but I know some people would ratherbuy them. If you need a cart and can't build it, email me, and I'll try to connect you with people making carts or build you one. They should cost $100 to $150, for partsand time. So far, carts might be available around Northampton, MA, San Francisco, CA, and San Diego, CA.
If you want make these carts to sell, go ahead, but please include a link to the Instructables page or a copy of the fabrication manual from bikecart.pedalpeople.com Mygoals are to increase car independence and empower people through fabrication in their communities. Let me know if you sell these carts, and what you think about thisproject. If you build a cart for yourself, let me know how it goes because I'm continuously working on the design and feedback is useful.
One of the more time consuming parts of cart fabrication is finding wheels and tires and making the plywood bed. One way to spread these bike carts might be to buildand sell just the cart body, and let the user find and mount wheels and plywood.
If you want to make a bike cart but can't make a hitch, I will send you one for the cost of parts, postage, and the time for making it (cost is $20 in 2006. $6 for the hitch, $2for metal stock, for $4 for postage, and the rest for time and gas). I want to increase the accessibility of this project. For more information, contact me [email protected]. These hitches are compatible with Bikes At Work trailers.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Bicycle-cargo-trailer--200-lb-capacity%2c-%2430-for-pa/
Related Instructables
Combined cartbike trailer bywedjlok
NoWeld BikeTrailer by frenzy
SURF FISHINGCART / BIKETRAILER bymarple200
Shopping CartBike Trailer byberserk
Building astrong flexiblebicycle trailercoupler. byweblar
Fast HandlingBike Trailer bycouchchangeracing
Advertisements
Comments50 comments Add Comment view all 75 comments
strollersstore says: Aug 13, 2010. 3:06 AM REPLYThese Trailers are amazing to look and very useful
co2wms7whcc says: Aug 4, 2010. 2:37 PM REPLYReally, MIG welding is fairly easy to learn. Especially if you braze, because you will already have practice watching the bead.
Crashbox says: Jan 1, 2009. 5:57 PM REPLYHere's a cart that started as a trash find. It was an InStep bike trailer I found in a neighbors trash. I welded in a couple of frame supports, changed the hitch,welded up the 3/4 emt tubing, added lights, works great. Crashbox. [email protected]
Eric B. says: Jun 24, 2010. 7:44 PM REPLYCrashbox, I am interested to know how you built the axle assembly for this trailer. It looks awesome! I have been creating plans for a trailer like the Y-frame that Carry Freedom builds but I can't seem to figure out how best to mount the wheels without building a 'wheel well'. I like the clean looks ofyours.
Crashbox says: Jul 11, 2010. 5:29 PM REPLYEric, Attached are pictures of the wheel mounts.
bikerusl says: Jun 25, 2010. 12:06 AM REPLYI would caution people about brazing the coated or galvinized metal. That stuff is extremely toxic, you don't want to breath any chrome! Other than that this isthe most professional seeming DIY trailer I've seen. Good job. I build trailers with CrMo bicyclefamily.ca
http://www.instructables.com/id/Bicycle-cargo-trailer--200-lb-capacity%2c-%2430-for-pa/
hackin5hit says: Apr 14, 2010. 11:41 AM REPLYThanks for some inspiration!!! Because of this Instructable, I made my own trailer, viewable at
http://undefined-macrolife.blogspot.com/
Thanks again, I will be making one from your design this week. I weld them, and am very much a beginner welder so the welds are ugly (getting better fastthough). Anyone in the Olympia, WA area wanting one of these contact me through here or the link, I'll help you build one, it is fun.
foothillfrontier says: Apr 7, 2010. 7:57 PM REPLYSo glad that you have this posted on instructables. I was going to make this cart a while ago and lost track of the instructions. It was the first thing thatpopped up when I googled EMT Bike Trailer. Thanks!
clockworkdoorbell says: Sep 5, 2009. 9:41 AM REPLYWhat a great project! I've just cobbled together my first trailer from bits and pieces, it pales in comparison to your professionalism.Here are some photos. It was the hitch that flummoxed me the most.http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/clockworkdoorbell/Trailer#
cavegit says: Aug 21, 2009. 11:54 AM REPLYHow do I convert my salvaged rims that I have to bolt on one-side, instead of having to bolt them on both sides of the rim? Almost completed my 2 carts witha 225lb. each weight limit. I used a frame from 2 fold out lawn chairs that I had gotten from CVS for 90% marked down price :)
cavegit says: Aug 21, 2009. 12:37 PM REPLYI dont wanna spend $35 per rim for these and i need 4 total :(http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200331764_200331764
goodgnus says: Aug 10, 2008. 9:11 PM REPLYAlmost finished, just need a plywood bed and add some nylon washers to the hitch to stop a little rattle.
tobbylj says: Apr 17, 2009. 12:17 AM REPLYi think there is buffer between, just steel pin contact is very hard, not comfortable with bike rider
SureShot says: Mar 29, 2009. 12:10 PM REPLYThis is great, thanks for an awesome instructable!!!
dm_metalsmith says: Mar 9, 2009. 10:24 PM REPLYthis is fantastic! thank you! i've been playing around with trailers for some time. i've got a shabby wooden one right now that squeaks like an old rockingchair. i haven't really tried to max it out. . . it's still needs some finishing touches. this is a great instructable! i love the pictures too! - doug from somerville
jeremysp1993 says: Jan 2, 2009. 5:33 PM REPLYyou could mount that ball joint horizontally from the plate going to the left...and inside the ball joint, you could attach another ball joing going in the samedirection that you have yours already in the picture...this would allow for movement up and down and left to right...that is if you have your ball joint freelymoving within the tube that is attached to the bike
Thelonelysandwitch says: Nov 2, 2008. 11:57 AM REPLYmy cousin made one of these but with smaller wider wheels. it worked great.
goodgnus says: Aug 5, 2008. 2:47 PM REPLYYou can get plans in PDF format from the original designer at http://bikecart.pedalpeople.com
Plans are very comprehensive. I built a slightly modified version of this last weekend, almost complete, very sturdy, looking forward to using it, see attachedpic.
Uses 20" bmx wheels instead and moved back to aid stability, details in the PDF version.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Bicycle-cargo-trailer--200-lb-capacity%2c-%2430-for-pa/
farbs says: May 18, 2007. 3:25 PM REPLYHi! Im 13, and I desperately want to build a trailer. The problem is, I dont own a welding gun (Mainly because im 13) but my moms boyfriend is a carpenter,and I could probably convince him he could use one. If im lucky,he might get one by christmas. Then I could get the parts and make it by Febuary. way toomuch work. I dont think he would let me use it anyway and its not the same watching someone else build it. So even before I saw this, I decided that I wouldbuild a cheap, no-weld trailer. Any suggestions or tips?
zach911 says: Jun 26, 2008. 5:47 AM REPLYif you were to weld make your sure you were a helmet. the bright light could burn your retina in 15 nanoseconds. thus causing you to lose ability to see.
bumpus says: Jul 18, 2008. 9:37 AM REPLY"Wear" not "were" "god ppl learn English"
zach911 says: Jul 18, 2008. 10:22 AM REPLYDude its people not ppl
bumpus says: Jul 18, 2008. 11:18 AM REPLYI was quoting you:
http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-tell-different-grenades-apart/?ALLSTEPS
portland454 says: Jun 5, 2008. 9:35 PM REPLYAluminum is great. I had a friend in high school who's grandpa built him a trailer using the the 'L' shaped aluminum rod(angle iron). We used it for oursurf boards for years. You can use screws to bolt it together. Be sure to use lock washers/bolts. You might also consider looking at reclaiming usedmaterial, such as rods from an old patio umbrella, lounge chair, etc. Good Luck and don't stop until you've got it!
Grey_Wolfe says: May 13, 2008. 9:18 AM REPLYYou could probably build this same trailer using brackets and pipe fittings instead of welds. Though it may not be quite as strong, it should still be ratherstructurally sound.
aaron says: May 19, 2007. 7:21 AM REPLYYeah, check out the plans for the "bamboo trailer" from carryfreedom.com/bamboo.html You'll have to email Nick for the plans. It's a lovely design, andfairly simple. You can build it from conduit, bamboo, wood sticks or poles, (i wouldn't recommend PVC)... Good luck.
Kevvixx says: Feb 24, 2008. 12:34 PM REPLYIf I were to use bamboo, where could I get it?
Kevvixx says: Feb 24, 2008. 12:32 PM REPLYwhat is a good cheap material that I could use since you said that PVC was not a good recommendation?
camb00 says: Mar 19, 2008. 2:31 AM REPLYcopper pipe no welding just soldering but its very expensive now but would be easy to use
Grey_Wolfe says: May 13, 2008. 9:23 AM REPLYThis is a good suggestion for ease of costruction, though it would have to be for farely light loads, copper is rather soft. PVC is very sensitiveto sunlight, it will scorch and become even more brittle than it already is. Aaron's right, it's a bad choice. Threaded piping/tubing is a goodidea. Preferrably aluminum, though steal would work, it'd be very heavy.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Bicycle-cargo-trailer--200-lb-capacity%2c-%2430-for-pa/
Lokisgodhi says: Feb 24, 2010. 2:07 AM REPLYI'd say fiberglass tubing would be a good substitute for bamboo. It comes in round and square.
shyrell says: Jun 26, 2008. 9:36 AM REPLYWhat an amazing idea. I've been thinking of all things I could use these carts for: haul my 7 cats around town (kidding), hook one to the back of my ridingmower, modify a wheelbarrow... Could you design something like a wheelbarrow? It would have to be easy to push and pull up to (but not including) 100pounds, easy to lift the handle and set it down, and of course built on 2 wheels. I have a few small hills in my yard and I am not very strong. Or could youdesign a cart for the back of my riding mower that does not need a ball and hitch devise to attach and remove? What a great instructable! Thanks so muchfor sharing this idea. Shyrell
dancmarsh says: Jul 26, 2007. 3:41 PM REPLYdoes anyone know the best place to get emt conduit in the uk? It seems that everyone uses PVC here. Is it known as something else? Can't seem to get iteasily at all. Love the design, need to learn to weld anyway, seems like the perfect way to learn!
killerjackalope says: May 2, 2008. 3:30 PM REPLYB&Q and homebase do this stuff, getting to it is the fun bit, I've spent an hour explaining to the peons to take me directly to the metal threaded plumbingpipes for example, at one point we ended up in the only easy part of the stores to find... Lighting... However they do it and cheap aswell, B&Q arecheaper as memory serves...
kington99 says: May 2, 2008. 6:25 AM REPLYMetal supermarket is a UK chain that sell material of this nature in any quantity rewuired, cut to size. It will be plain steel tubing rather than conduit, butas far as I can see there's no difference. I presume he only uses conduit because oif its ease of availability. Steel conduit is no longer used in themajority of UK wiring, doesn't surprise me you can't buy it anywhere.
altomic says: May 2, 2008. 5:43 AM REPLYI found an old beat up shopping trolley. removed the cage. welded to front bike forks to the sides (took the wheels off first). welded a bar bent midway at65degrees which attached to my bike rack with a hand made universal joint thing. remember : it is a hell of a lot easier to pull than carry.
skeegan says: Nov 6, 2006. 5:32 AM REPLYHi: I have a couple of pieces of copper piping - about 2.5 m long and 25mm diameter. Would they be suitable for this project? I will bolt not braze..
camp6ell says: Dec 28, 2007. 6:35 AM REPLYyou can probably sell the copper for more scrap value than the cost of (stronger) new steel conduit...
dawnkasotia says: Aug 30, 2007. 2:11 PM REPLYCan the conduit be used to create a frame like this one instead of having the frame go around the outside of the tires?
http://www.carryfreedom.com/downloads/Y-Frame_Instructions.pdf
zapt says: Jul 5, 2007. 2:43 PM REPLYHi Aaaron - this is a great resource!! I've been looking around the web for cargo trailer plans that wouldn't take up days - I know, you can probably whip thisout in an hour or so but I'm not that handy but I do enjoy myself, I guess more of a low-grade tinkerer than a bike mechanic. But I only get a snip of time hereand then to work on a project, so time is a concern. How much time did this all take you to do? I like to go DIY when I can but in this case I'm eying thecommercial bicycle cargo trailers available and wondering if maybe I shouldn't just drop a couple hundred bucks - even waiting for shipping, I'd be hitting theroad this summer, and not still building when the snow flies ... on the other hand, I could tinker over the long cold winter and have a trailerweird, at first I didtake your : I'm proud to have built to roll out with in the spring ...
gmichaelt says: May 17, 2007. 12:43 PM REPLYAll very useful info, and I've sent reference to the ALLSTEPS to a number of people already. Kudos to the OP and to everyone contributing, whatever theangle; a great resource for velorutionaries. A few questions remain... What's the consensus on the use of muriatic acid - or similar - to make the welding ofthis conduit less noxious/toxic? Would the use of star-nuts and appropriate bolts and other findings make it possible to build the frame, complete with mitredjoins, without welding? If not, could start-nuts and bolts be used contribute to/make for better/stronger joins for the welding? What is the practical limit of theradius of the curve for a given tube - e.g. the conduit referenced here - and how is that limit determined (other than via testing-to-disaster)? In other words,what's the smallest safe radius of a curve to give to conduit using the pipe-bending rig mentioned here? (The questions above are probing in the direction ofbending and otherwise securing the longest-possible sections of the conduit so as to minimise the need for welding...) Where can information/discussion oncamber be found? In particular, how to determine what limits there are for the degree of camber (positive or negative) when using spoked wheels in thisapplication? And, on a related note, given that the trailer wheels don't take much side-loading, is more-than-moderate dishing of the trailer wheels worth theeffort for the modest volumetric gains?
HarveyandCarol says: May 16, 2007. 10:26 PM REPLYI was wondering if anyone out there, preferably in the Minneapolis area, would be willing to build a bike trailer to accommodate my 16 year old chocolateLaborador named Harvey. He weighs 75 lbs and when he lays down he is about 3.5 feet long. My email is [email protected] Thanks so much.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Bicycle-cargo-trailer--200-lb-capacity%2c-%2430-for-pa/
The Texas Pirate! says: May 13, 2007. 9:29 PM REPLYI plan on making a cross country trek on my bicycle and am looking to build a trailer that I can sleep in. Does anyone here have any sugestions?
aaron says: May 15, 2007. 3:04 AM REPLYA guy named greg built a version of Nick's Carry Freedom Bamboo trailer with a bed, for Burning Man. Photos here:http://flickr.com/photos/gregveen/235244713/You could do something similar and more simple with welding 3/4" X 0.049" round or square tube together...
def71 says: Apr 16, 2007. 7:39 PM REPLYGreat design and great project! As a person with no welding skills and no hopes of obtaining them, I have been looking at this design and Mark Rehder'sweldless emt tube design. It seems like a combination of the two would join simplicity with sturdiness. Could the emt connectors that art fair display-tent-vendors sell stand in for some joints? Yes, the cost would go up, but not dramatically. In particular, the T joints they sell might be good for connecting theundercarriage to the frame loop.
aaron says: Apr 17, 2007. 5:02 AM REPLYThanks. My favorite Bolt-together design is Carry Freedom's Bamboo Trailer, for which plans are availbale if you email Nick from the site:http://carryfreedom.com/bamboo
But no hopes of obtaining welding skills? If you're interested in learning, a bicycle trailer might just be a great way to join forces with someone who does,and share skills.
I think you should also look at Flatsy plans, and my new design, which I'm hemming and hawing over calling "Chariot" or sometime else. They arewelded also--the advantage of welding trailers is that you can create incredibly light and strong devices without a lot of bulk. I've only worked with tentconnectors a bit, but I haven't seen any that can stand up to heat, cold, UV light, and impact very well--they're made to carry static loads, not dynamicloads. That said, you could probably find some nice ones somewhere, but why not go with the bamboo trailer design, made from EMT, and eliminate theneed for connectors?
kwsmithsr says: Jan 18, 2007. 11:17 AM REPLYAnother website says remove zinc with muratic acid before welding. If I can still get it cheap as driveway cleaner (don't remember when I last saw it) thatsounds like a solution. (stumbled on this thread as I prepare to weld up some EMT snowshoes, but a trailer is high on my list o' things to do).
The Full Belly Project says: Dec 27, 2006. 8:41 AM REPLYHi Aaron,Excellent work on the bike trailers. This is exactly the sort of thing that we need in our efforts at the Full Belly Project to transport our shellers around RuralUganda (they're about 80lbs) . But I was wondering, would it be possible to simply replace the trailer bed with an oil barrel, attach two wheels, and either cutthe barrel in half or put a hatch on it. It would be an ideal way to transport grain to market as well (definitely more efficient then carrying it on one's head). Ifyour load was relatively light perhaps you could even attach a few to each other and make a little train car out of them.
aaron says: Dec 31, 2006. 7:38 AM REPLYHi Roey. I'm glad you wrote--I just dug out the full belly project video that Jock gave me on a very chance encounter in October--I was in Cambridge MA,visiting a friend at MIT before I flew out to Namibia to design bicycle-pulled amnbulances for rural medical transportation. Walking past a pickup truch fullof a pedal-powered contraption (all i noticed at first was the use of split hardwood blocks for bushings/pedals), I commented to my friend, "people makesuch interesting things here," and out came Jock, who I had seen in a video about the first peanut sheller, years ago.
Anyhow, it is good to make contact with you. There are many adaptations of bicycle trailers that might work for you. I wouldn't recommend using an oilbarrel as a stuctural part of the trailer (is this what you meant?), because that would limit the versatility, and it might be hard to make good joints to thethin barrel without significant reinforcement. Design something that's going to be used well beyond your intentions, because if a trailer will fit two people,then two people are going to ride in it sooner or later. I've been building bicycle-pulled ambulances here in Namibia out of 25mm tubing, 1.6 and 2.0mmwall thickness, with solid wheels. I haven't found a locally availailable bender capable of making small radius, 90 degree bends in the tubing, but cutting
http://www.instructables.com/id/Bicycle-cargo-trailer--200-lb-capacity%2c-%2430-for-pa/
and welding works ok, as does reinforcing kink bends. I'm mitering with files, welding with stick, and only using locally available parts and fabricationtechniques, to facilitate easy repairs and increase the transferability of the design.
I might start with the same basic frame of "flatsy", but build just longer than the length of a barrel on its side, and just narrower than it's diameter, so thatit sits down in the frame nicely. The wheel guards might not be necessary anymore. I would also recommend creating a pulling handle that attachesunder the seat, so that it may be pushed by hand easily, without the addition of another handle. The wheels should go just behind the center of the cartperhaps back 10 percent of the length.
Let's chat about this further off line. You can find my contact information athttp://bikecart.pedalpeople.com/
hoolio says: Nov 22, 2006. 4:39 PM REPLYHey Aaron! Ryan's sister hoolio here. He just sent me your info and I got sidetracked on this site. I built a tall cruiser this last spring - just paid $133 for notbeing street legal. I'll save that discussionfor the too-tall thread. As for your trailer: we've hacked and mitered. Hope to do some amatuer brazing thisweekend. I'll send you some feedback soon! Happy Thanksgiving.
view all 75 comments
![Home [] · Testimonials Trailer Delivery Horse Trailer Blog Horse Trailer Buying Guide Horse Trailer Lingo Horse Trailer Maintenance Trailering Safety Search Inventory OR enter Trailer#:](https://static.fdocuments.us/doc/165x107/5f60b857e51db4230831ff65/home-testimonials-trailer-delivery-horse-trailer-blog-horse-trailer-buying-guide.jpg)
