bettafishsecrets

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Betta Fish Secrets

ByMike Worthington


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Chapter 1: The History, Background and Biology of

Your Betta Fish

Betta fish are easily recognized by their brilliant coloring and long

flowing fins. They run the gamut of the rainbow - everything from

blue to red to white, and the female especially will usually have

horizontal stripes. As in many species in nature, the female Betta fish

is not as brilliantly colored, and her fins will be shorter than her male

counterpart. To find out more about Betta coloring, read the chapter

on "Breeding and Spawning Your Betta Fish."

Betta fish are prized as much for their unique personalities and their

warmth towards their owners as for their beautiful colors and flowing

tales. Experienced Betta owners insist that each Betta has its own

personality traits, habits and methods of communicating theirfeelings, needs and wants.

Betta fish also make excellent "first fish" for children because of their

high degree of interactivity, their personalities and the fact that they

children can master the steps required in their care and feeding and

need only a little help with the tank cleaning and water changing

processes.

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Classification and Basic Overview

Category: Fish -> FreshwaterKingdom: Animalia

Phylum: Chordata

Class: Actinopterygii

Order: Perciformes

Betta Family: Belontiidae

Genus: Betta

Species: splendens

Scientific Name: Betta Splendens

Common Name: Siamese Fighting FishOrigin: Cambodia, Thailand,

Indonesia, Malaysia, Vietnam and parts of China

Natural Habitat: Bettas originated in Thailand - (formerly called

Siam, which is how they got their common name)

Basic Information:

Lifespan: 2-3 years

Adult Size: 3 inches (7 cm)

Socialization: Males cannot be kept together as they can be

aggressive. Bettas react poorly to stress, and if kept in stressful

conditions for a period of time, will become nervous and get

physically sick.

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Minimum Tank Size: 3 gallon (Although it's become "chic" for Betta

fish to be sold or kept in flower vases, this is actually cruel to the fish,

since it's very difficult to maintain the water temperature needed and

doesn't give them enough room to swim around.)

Tank Level: Top dweller

Water Type: Fresh water

Optimum pH Level: 6.8 - 7.4

Water Hardness: up to 20 dGH

Water Temperature: 75-86 F (24-30 C) Bettas originated in tropical

countries and therefore their water temperature needs to be

consistently maintained.

Diet: Live food is preferable, freeze-dried foods have the fewest

parasites and is much better for their health they will eat flakes and

frozen foods if there is no alternative.Care: Easy to Intermediate

Breeding: Egg layer - bubble nest

History and Background

Historically speaking, Betta Fish are said to have gotten their name

from an ancient clan of Asian warriors called the "Bettah." They were

given these warriors' names because about 150 years ago people

enjoyed participating in a popular sport that involved the fighting of

two of these warrior fish. (In fact, the sport was so popular that it was

regulated - and taxed - by the King of Siam!)

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One interesting note about Betta fish fighting is that, unlike cock or

dog fighting in the west, at Siamese fighting fish tournaments, the

actual fight was more to test the bravery of the fish, rather than a fight

to see how much damage would be inflicted, or a death match.

Spectators bet on how long a particular fish would fight, and which

one would give up first. (In fact, most fish would only fight once or

twice, and then live out the remainder of their lives being pampered

and used for breeding.)

Natural Habitat

A Betta fish's natural habitat is in shallow, tropical water. This is

because they need to be able to surface frequently, in order to

breathe air. They can be found in nature in rice paddies, drainageditches, slow moving streams and fresh water ponds. Betta fish have

even been known thrive in large puddles! Their natural food source is

insects and mosquito larvae.

How Breeding Began

According to historical accounts, a close friend of the King of Siam,

Dr. Theodore Cantor received a pair of breeding Bettas from the king

in 1840. The doctor bred them and studied them for several years,

and then wrote a scientific paper about them, giving them a Latin

name of "Macropodus Pugnax." However, shortly after his paper was

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How to Tell the Difference Between Male and Female

Betta Fish:In addition to being brighter colored and having longer fins, the

easiest way to tell males from females is to put the new Betta fish in a

flat sided container and put it next to the tank of another male. If it

flares up at the site of the other male Betta, then congratulations, it's

a boy. If, on the other hand, it suddenly shows vertical stripes, then

the Betta fish is a girl. (Female Betta fish - when they're older than 4

months - will have a bumpy white spot on their underbellies. It's the"ovipositor" (egg spot) where she'll release her eggs from when she's

breeding.

The Labyrinth

Betta Fish are called anabantids because they breathe surface air,much the same way we do, through special organs called "labyrinth

organs." This is a small chamber that takes in air, much the way our

lungs do. Because of this, you won't need to use aeration, but you'll

have to make sure that the tank isn't overfilled, so that your Betta can

swim to the top and gulp in the air he needs. By the way, your

Betta's labyrinth only functions when it's moist, so it's very important

that he doesn't jump out of the tank, and that he can easily get to the

surface.

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The Fins and the Tails

The long, flowing fins of the Betta fish are what make it so beautiful

and sought after by aquarium owners today, and it is by the shape of

their tails that the different breeds are named. Thanks to current

breeding methods, there are several different breeds of Betta Fish

available today. Here's a short list:

Crown Tail: The "rays" or spines of the tail extend beyond the

webbing. This gives the tail a kind of coronet shape andappearance. The most common Crown Tails have a single ray,

although breeders have now bred Double-Ray Crown Tails, and

"Double-Double Ray" and finally "Double Double Double Ray"

Crown Tails. Because of their scarcity and rareness, these

Bettas are very costly. If you're just starting out, you'll probably

want to start with a more common variety.

Double Tail: This is another genetically bred Betta that is rare

and can only be purchased from a breeder. The tail is split into

two halves, making it appear to have two tails.

Half Moon: The tail is so wide that it forms a kind of half-moon

shape. Very graceful and beautiful to look at, these Bettas are

often the most sought-after.

Delta Tail: The tail forms a triangle because the outside rays of

the tail are the same length as the middle ones. If you're

planning to "show" your Betta, find one with the largest Delta.

Round Tail: The tail actually appears round on this breed.

The shape comes from the middle rays being the longest, with

progressively shorter rays growing out on from the middle.

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Veil Tail: This is the most common variety of Bettas sold in pet

stores. The bottom fin rays are longer than the top rays. When

flared, they have a diamond rectangular shape. These fish are

seldom used by show professionals or breeders, who consider

them too common.

SAFETY TIP: Your Betta loves

to jump - and will jump out of the

tank if he gets the chance! You

need to take precautions to assure

that this doesn't happen, because

not only does he risk injuring

himself, if he's out for too long, your

The Mouth

Some Betta owners say one of the reasons they were first attracted

to the fish because they appeared so "happy." The shape of the

Bettas mouths have also been compared to that of bulldogs, both

because of the pugilistic look and upturned corners. Something

interesting to note is that the Betta's bite actually has the comparable

power to that of a shark, although because of its size, it won't hurt

you, even if it were to give you an affectionate little "nip" to say hello.

Betta fish take in oxygen through their mouths, so when they swim to

the top of the tank to catch a breath of air, they may look like they're

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talking or singing. There have even been Betta owners who insist

that their fish sing along with certain songs when played on the radio.

But for all its power, the Betta fish's mouth is also made to be

incredibly gentle. When spawning, the male Betta will swim to the

bottom of the tank, gently scoop up the eggs in its mouth and carry

them safely to the bubble nest.

To find out more about the bubble nest and how the breeding and

spawning processes work, read the chapter on "Breeding Your Betta

Fish".

Because they're so easy to take care of,Betta fish are great "first pets" for children,

who can learn quickly how to feed and care

for them, and need only a little help from

you with water changes.

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Chapter 2: Preparing Your Betta Fish's New Home

You should have your Betta fish's new home all set up before you go

to the pet store, or order him from a reputable breeder. Taking the

time to plan and prepare the perfect environment will help to ensure

that your Betta fish thrives.

Because Betta fish don't react well to stress, there are several factors

to consider when deciding where to set up your Betta's new home.

Of course you're going to want to place the tank somewhere where

you'll be able to see it and enjoy it, but there are also some other

practical considerations to take into account. For example:

The Ideal Tank Size:

Actually, there is some controversy about the best tank size for Betta

fish. Because in their natural environment they live in small shallow

water, some people believe that Bettas can - and even should - be

kept in any small container - such as a goldfish bowl or large glass

vase.

Others believe this is cruel to the fish, and believe that on a

psychological and emotional level Bettas experience less stress, and

are happier when they've got room to swim around.

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One important factor that people forget is that, when they're in their

natural environment, although they may live in a small, shallow pool

of water, it is part of an entire eco-system that is constantly being fed

with fresh water, which helps to clean and maintain it while removing

harmful bacterium. You won't have that in a small fishbowl or

aquarium. And the smaller the tank size, the more difficult it is to

maintain the constant water temperature your fish needs.

No matter what tank size you choose, make sure that you've got

some places for your Betta to hide, and especially if you're putting

him into a tank with other fish, that he can choose for his own private

territory. And remember, if you run into water quality issues, or one

of your fish has a disease, it's going to spread like wildfire in an

overcrowded tank!

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[This is an example of an overcrowded fish bowl

- and is a bad idea. Not only will it stress the

fish, which could kill them, but putting too many

fish in too small of a tank will cause fighting and

injuries.

I'm squarely in the middle of the tank size controversy and believe

that the minimum tank size for a Betta should be at least 3 gallons

(11.36 liters), and up to 10 gallons (37.86 liters), especially if you're

going to keep other fish, or have more than one Betta in the tank.

(Get anything bigger than 10 gallons (37.86) liters and you'll run into

issues with cleaning the tank and maintaining the proper water

temperature).

The Ideal Site for Your Fish Tank:

When deciding where to set up your tank, remember this:

Water is heavy - one gallon of water is equal to about 8 pounds

(3.63 kilograms), so you're not going to want to be lugging it

around.

Make sure that whatever surface you place the tank on is

strong enough to support it, and large enough that the tank isn't

going to be close to any edges, and can't be easily knocked off

or bumped by passers-by.

Never place your tank where it will be in direct sunlight, or

heating or air conditioning units, or near a draft. (Not only can

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the sun raise the temperature of the tank too high, it also spurs

the growth of certain algae which are bad for your fish.

Likewise, water that's too cold, or constantly fluctuates can be

deadly for Betta fish.)

Choose a site that has a natural day/night cycle. (In other

words, don't choose a location that has light or dark all the time

so that your Betta doesn't get agitated or depressed.)

In order to keep the water temperature constant, you'll need to

invest in a heating system. Which means you'll need an

electrical outlet near the tank.

Make sure that the tank isn't near stereo or video equipment,

especially if you like loud music. The constant vibrations will,

over time, stress out and agitate your Betta fish, and chances

are, he'll react by getting sick, or becoming listless and inactive.

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The Best Aquarium for your

Betta Fish:When it comes to aquariums, tanks and

bowls, you'll have an amazing variety to

choose from, based on your budget, your

likes and your needs. You'll also have

your choice between glass and acrylic.

(Remember though that acrylic tanks often

need additional support or treatments at

the edges to prevent leaking).

Something else to remember for your

Betta fish - since he needs to breathe

frequently, make sure that the tank is

wider than it is deep - you don't want himto have to struggle to get to the surface.

In fact, an idea depth is about 10 inches

(25.40 centimeters) from the bottom of the

tank to the surface.

How to Prepare the Tank:

Don't skip this vital step or your Betta fish

could get sick and even die. No matter

whether you're using a brand new tank or

a used one, you need to make sure that

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it's prepared correctly for your Betta. Luckily, if you follow these

steps, you can make sure that your Betta lives a long and happy life.

New Aquarium:

The waste that your Betta excretes turns into ammonia, and other

waste and debris turn into nitrites that, unless treated or turned into

less harmful compounds, can poison it. This phenomenon sadly

happens to fish when they are put into a brand new tank that hasn't

been properly prepared. It's called "New Tank Syndrome" and it

happens because new aquariums don't have the natural and

beneficial bacteria that consume those compounds. In fact, the

whole biological process of creating the good bacteria can't start until

you introduce your fish into the tank.

If you've bought a new aquarium, the easiest and quickest way to

protect your Betta fish is to "seed" it by adding some aquarium gravel

from an established tank. But if you don't have any used aquarium

gravel, take heart because here are the steps you need to take to

protect your Betta and help him to stay healthy and happy:

1. When you buy your aquarium, also buy a testing kit to measure

nitrates and ammonia. For the first little while, you're going to

need to test daily - you want to monitor the levels of ammonia

and nitrate in your tank - if they start going up or keep going

up, it means you don't have enough good bacteria in the tank.

You'll want the ammonia and nitrate levels to be close to zero.

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And the pH levels should be from 6.8 to 7.0 - slightly acidic to

neutral, which will mimic their natural environment.

. Before filling the tank with water, wipe out any dust. (You can

buy aquarium disinfectant or make your own - see the recipe in

the section on cleaning a used tank.) Use paper towels rather

than cloths, so that you don't add any chemical residue, such

as fabric softener on the glass.

. Replace about 20 to 25% of the water in the tank three times a

week during the "break in" process. Here's the easiest way to

do this. Let's assume you have a five gallon tank. (Make the

appropriate adjustments depending on the size of your tank.)

Fill it with four gallons and then take a magic marker, and in an

inconspicuous place, mark where the water line is. Then as

you're changing the water, simply draw out enough to reach

that line, and replace that much. By the way, don't take yourfish out of the tank when you're changing the water. It's

actually easier on them and causes less stress.

. When changing the water, add teaspoon of aquarium salt per

gallon to the new tank water. Aquarium salt helps prevent

stress, adds needed minerals and electrolytes your Betta fish

needs and also helps to prevent diseases.

. Buy a package of Java Moss. It also consumes the nitrates

and ammonia that your Betta fish excretes, so it will help to

keep your tank cleaner. It also has the added benefits of not

requiring sunlight and it doesn't grow roots. Plus, you'll only

need to buy it once. If you need to add some to another tank,

simply tear off a hunk from the first tank and there you go. (By

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the way, make sure when putting Java Moss into a new tank

that the fish in the first tank aren't sick - otherwise the bacteria

will transfer as well, making the new fish sick.)

. Don't feed your Betta fish much during while you're going

through this process. Betta fish can actually go up to ten days

without eating, and the less food they eat, the less waste they

produce, plus you reduce the amount of harmful bacteria and

parasites that can gain a foothold until there's an adequate

amount of nitrifying bacterium to control them. If you still have

food floating around after five minutes, then you're feeding your

Betta too much!

Safety Tip: Don't add antibiotics to the

water during this time. Although it can

seem like an easy way of getting rid ofany bad bacterium, and speed up the

process of protecting your Betta,

antibiotics can't determine the

difference between good and bad

After about two months of testing, you should discover that the nitrate

levels in your tank are remaining consistently low, which means that

you've built up enough positive bacteria that you can switch to regular

cleaning and water changing methods. (If they're not, then continue

the introduction method until they are.)

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By the way, it takes between 6 to 8 weeks for the levels to stabilize

after adding fish to your aquarium for the first time - so don't be

alarmed if the water is clear some days and cloudy others during that

time. The best way to deal with this problem is to do change about

25% of the water once a week until has completed the cycle, and the

levels of nitrate and ammonia have leveled off.

Used Aquarium:

If you have a used aquarium, or you buy one, it's important that you

make sure you clean it thoroughly to destroy any lingering "bad"

bacteria. But in this case, cleaning it doesn't mean using soap (Soap

leaves a residue which can actually harm your fish.) Follow these

steps and you'll ensure that your Betta is safe:

1. Use a scraper and remove any algae from the sides of the tank.

2. Create your own cleanser by sprinkling baking soda over thewalls of your aquarium. Then using a mixture of one part

vinegar to four parts water in a spray bottle, spray the walls of

your aquarium. Let this mixture sit for several minutes. (It will

bubble.)

3. Using a scrubby (or a sponge with the abrasive side), scrub the

walls of your aquarium. Rinse at least 3 times, using very hot

water.

4. If you still see any residue, wipe it down with a scrubby again,

this time using straight lemon juice. (When finished, rinse again

a couple of times to make sure that it's completely clean.)

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Aquarium Heaters - Do You Really Need One?

While it can be difficult to maintain the water temperature in a tank,

it's absolutely necessary that you have one. There are two reasons

for this. First of all, if your Betta gets too stressed out over a period of

time, his immune system will become compromised, and he'll begin

to lose his ability to fight off infection and disease.

The second reason is that your Betta is used to living in water that is

between 75 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit - and he will become listless

and unresponsive if the water is too far above or too far below that

temperature. This becomes even more important in a large tank.

It's also very important that you maintain a fairly consistent

temperature in your Betta fish's tank. Your fish won't handle extreme

temperature changes either. By the way, it doesn't take much of a

water temperature change - just the matter of a couple of degrees

Fahrenheit - for your Betta to be affected - so this is something you

really need to pay attention to.

The unit of measurement for aquarium heaters is in watts. When

trying to decide on which heater will be best for you, a good basic

guideline is 5 watts per gallon of water. Make sure that the heater fits

your tank and, if it's an internal one, can be properly inserted.

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If you're not sure and you didn't buy the tank and heater together,

take the tank with you to the store, and ask the manager to help you

get the right one.

Two Types of Heating Systems:

Safety Tip: Whichever heating

unit you choose, don't rely on

that unit alone. Buy a backupthermometer, such as the kind

that sticks to the outside of the

tank, and use it to double check

the water temperature.

There are two main types of heating systems - internal and external.

You'll have to decide which one works best for you - and if you have

any questions, ask your local pet store or your Betta breeder for

recommendations based on your tank set up.

One other important thing to keep in mind is the water circulation -

without proper water circulation, you're going to have "hot spots" and

"cold spots" in the water, both of which can be harmful to your Betta

fish. Heaters cost anywhere from about $20 to $50, although like

with anything else, you can find more expensive models.

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Internal Tank Heating Systems:

Internal heating systems are the most common. They usually consist

of a glass tube anywhere between 4 inches (10.16 cm) to 12 inches

(30.48 cm) long. Some offer a built-in thermostat, while others will

have an external thermostat, usually outside the tank and are usually

used to control multiple heating units.

External Tank Heating Systems:

There are several different models of external heating systems, such

as a model which fits under the tank and heats the water from below,

or one that connects to the filtering system. They are widely available

both online and off.

Decorating Your Aquarium

There are as many choices for decorating your aquarium as there are

fish to fill it. Your Betta fish will enjoy having a beautifully decorated

home the same as you do - but there are a few things to remember

to keep him happy and safe.

NEVER use any metallic decorations in your aquarium. Most

metals will leech minute amounts of residue into the water and

that will, over time, poison your Betta

Don't use fabric plants in your aquarium

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Be careful of any decorations with sharp or serrated edges that

could catch or tear your Betta Fish's fins

Do not use colored stones, decorative rocks or small stones

from your garden or marbles in the tank with your Betta fish.

(In addition to harboring bacteria, your fish could injure himself

- many Bettas like to toss their gravel, or hide under it.)

Do add caves or other decorations your Betta can use to hide

himself in. (This is especially important if there will be other

fish in the tank. Bettas are extremely territorial, and need to

have a space to go to when they need a little "alone time".)

Some Bettas like to rest near the top of the tank on a horizontal

floating leaf or other decoration that they can swim on and off

of when they want to.

Pay attention to decorations with small holes or crevices that

your Betta could swim into and get stuck - Bettas love

exploring tiny hiding places, but sometimes once they're in,

they can't get back out!

Because Bettas love to jump - especially when they're happy,

it's also a good idea to install a mesh web or other covering

over the top of your tank. This will protect your Betta from

jumping out of his tank and not being able to get back in.

Putting some plants in your fish tank does more than make it look

nice. Real plants offer several advantages to plastic ones: they

increase the oxygen in the water, and provide a place for your Betta

to hide, rest, and even anchor his bubble nest to. Of course, you

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have to weigh those advantages to the fact that, because they are

alive, you'll have to take care of them as well.

Check with your pet store or Betta breeder for the right plants for your

Betta fish based on the type and size of your tank, the number of

Bettas you'll have and the area you live in.

The Best Water for Your Betta:

First of all, let's dispel a myth about the best water for your Betta fish

- it is NOT using bottled water! Many people, in an effort to give their

fish the best possible environment will rush out and buy the most

expensive bottled waters on the market. But the truth is, not only do

most bottled waters not contain the essential minerals your fish

needs, they may also contain some harmful chemicals. Likewise, you

should never use distilled water or water that has been "purified" inany way - including through a carbon filter. This water won't have

the minerals that your Betta needs.

The actual best water for your Betta fish is just plain old tap water!

(By the way, if you've been using bottled water in the past, don't

worry. It won't kill your fish, but unless your local tap water is so bad

that you don't drink it either, switch back to tap water ASAP. And if

you have to used bottled water, make it spring water, and follow the

steps below, to make sure that you remove any harmful chemicals

before adding it to your Betta's tank.)

Of course, because most of the water we drink is chemically treated,

there are a few steps to follow to make the water safe for your Betta

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aquarium) and Under Gravel Filters (they use a tube to suck

aquarium water through a filter in the bottom of the aquarium).

Box filters are the most common type of filtration system for

freshwater aquariums. They consist of a pump, a filter and a carbon

insert. They're housed in a plastic box that sits on the back of the

aquarium. Water goes through a small tube that's inside the

aquarium, is drawn up and through the filter and carbon insert and

then flows back down into the aquarium.

Box filters provide chemical, biological and mechanical filtration for

your aquarium. The filter also acts as the base for colonizing

nitrifying bacteria (the good bacteria you want to have growing in your

tank) - this is the biological filtration process. Capturing the debris in

the water is the mechanical filtration process. And the carbon filterprovides the chemical filtration process by removing organic material

(waste) from the aquarium water.

The main advantage for using a box overflow system is that it's easy

to set up, change filters and clean.

Undergravel Filters work by using an uplift tube to draw water through

a filter plate located in the bottom of the aquarium. These filters use

a biological filtration process to keep nitrate and ammonia levels low.

The filter plate and substrate provide the base that nitrifying bacteria

colonize on. (Substrate is the gravel, crushed coral and sand that

you put in the bottom of your tank.)

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Many experts believe that Undergravel filters do the best job of

maintaining a healthy biological environment in freshwater

aquariums. Their main drawback is that it's a pain to clean them.

You have to clean them every year (because of the buildup of debris)

both above and below the filter plate. So you have to completely

remove the filter plate from the aquarium to clean it.

Filtration systems are usually rated by the number of gallons of water

filtered per hour. When choosing a filtration system for your tank,

make sure that it's large enough to do the job. Other than that, it's a

matter of choice.

Chapter 3: Buying Your Betta Fish and Bringing Him

Home

Now that you've got everything ready,

it's time to go out and choose your

new Betta fish.

You basically have two choices when

it comes to buying a Betta fish -

either a pet store or a professional

Betta fish breeder.

Timely Tip: When you're rinsing

the filter, DON'T rinse it in tap

water! Why? Because you'll be

etting rid of the good bacterium

that the biological filter process

has worked so hard to create inyour aquarium.. Since the good

bacterium is growing on the

sponge, just carefully rinse it in

water from the aquarium. (Each

time you do a water change, just

save some in a covered jar for the

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Making that decision is going to be a personal choice, and will be

based on a number of factors. For example:

Is this your first Betta fish?

Will the Betta be a pet for children?

Do you plan on breeding your Betta?

Will you enter your Betta fish in shows?

Will the Betta be put into a tank with other fish?

If the answer to questions one, two and five is yes, then you might

want to start by getting your first Betta fish from a pet store.

If on the other hand, your answer to questions three and four is yes,

then you'll want to find a professional breeder.

Choosing the right Betta for you is going to be a subjective matter,

and will be based on some of the questions above plus others. And it

will be harder to choose if you pick your Betta from a breeder and

can't see it in person. If you are choosing your Betta fish from a pet

store, spend a little time observing them. See if there is a fish which

exhibits personality traits you like, or one that seems lively and aware

of his surroundings.

The best advice in that case is simply to choose a Betta whose colors

and tail shape you like.

No matter where you buy your Betta from, here are some tips that will

help you choose the best Betta fish for you:

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Buying Your New Betta Fish from a Pet Store

Buying a Betta fish isn't like choosing a puppy or a kitten based on

how cute and fluffy it is, or how it seems to beg to be taken home with

you. In fact, before you even start looking in the Betta tank, you need

to check out the rest of the pet shop very carefully.

If the pet store you've chosen raises any of the following red flags,

then don't buy a fish from them - even if the Bettas found appear

healthy.

Timely Tip: Never buy a fish that's just

rrived at the pet store. Not only will it be

gitated and stressed out from the trip,

ut any illnesses or diseases it might haveon't show up right away!

Here's what you're looking for:

The overall cleanliness of the store itself

The general knowledge and attitude of the employees

The cleanliness of all the fish tanks

The cleanliness of the water

The general condition of all the animals, especially the fish

The condition of the fish

Are they losing their scales?

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Timely Tip: Ask the store what their

uarantee for your fish is. Reputablestores will offer a refund or replacement if

your fish should get sick or die within a

specified period of time. If your store

doesn't offer a guarantee, then that's a red

lag and you should look somewhere else

to buy your new Betta!)

Do they have "fur" or

other strange

substances on their

bodies?

Are any of them

suffering from bulging

or displaced eyes?

Do their tails have cuts

or older wounds?

If the store passes muster, then it's time to look at their Betta fish.

Many pet stores keep their Bettas in small containers, both to keep

them isolated so they don't fight with other fish, and to make it easier

to transport them. So don't expect the Betta fish to jump for joy or

wag their tails when they see you. But check for the following:Are their colors bright? (Dull colors indicate stress, agitation or

illness)

Are they alert?

Are they clean and free from obvious injuries to their scales,

tales and eyes?

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Taking Your Fish Home from the Pet Store

Although it's certainly easier on your fish for you to take him home

yourself, rather than having him shipped, there are still certain

precautions you need to take to ensure his safe arrival and reducing

the amount of stress he'll experience during the ride.

One of the main things to remember is to try to keep from jostling him

as much as possible. Following these simple steps will go a long way

in keeping your fish safe:

Don't try to bring him home in a large container filled with a lot

of water - in fact, in this case, air is the most important

consideration. Try to give your Betta about three times more air

than water.

Bring a small cooler with you - one for holding a six pack of

coke is perfect.

Start by packing the bottom of the cooler with several layers of

newspaper. (Two or three of the free newspapers with the

classified ads is perfect). This is to make sure that you're

putting your Betta on a flat surface.

Buy a Styrofoam block that you cut at home to fit the cooler -

and take a knife with you, so you can quickly make the final

adjustments before putting your fish inside. (If you don't want

to use Styrofoam, you can use wadded up newspaper to

surround and protect your fish, but make sure that it provides

enough support!) Once you know how big the container your

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fish will be in is, cut the top of the Styrofoam block to cover

about of it. Place it inside the cooler.

Put the cooler on the floor or your vehicle, or strap it into the

back seat of your car, using the seat belt. (Don't put it in the

trunk, especially if it's summer). Secure it again with a small

bungee cord, to keep it from moving around if you go over any

bumps or when you go around corners.

Drive slowly and carefully and go straight home. (This isn't the

time to stop and pick up a gallon of milk from the store). Pay

attention to bumps, railroad track and sharp corners.

Buying Your Betta from a Breeder

One of the best places to find a reputable breeder - and also to get

more information about Betta fish, is the International Betta

Congress. You can find them on the Internet at:

http://www.ibcbettas.com

If at all possible, find a breeder in your area, and go and pick out -

and bring home - your fish yourself.

If that's not possible, and you've decided to buy your Betta fish from a

breeder, here are some tips to make sure you choose the best

possible fish for you:

Check out the breeder's Website. You should be able to find

pictures and descriptions of the Betta fish they have for sale.

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Take your time and note down specifics about the fish you're

most interested in.

After narrowing down your search, contact the breeder, either

by email or telephone. Ask any questions you have about the

fish, its personality, care and feeding, etc.

The Journey from the Breeder to You:

Once you've chosen your fish, and made your payment, find out from

the breeder how the fish will be shipped.

Special Note: If you're buying a fish in the spring or winter, or any

time the temperature will be going lower than 65, make sure the

breeder is including heat packs.

To insure the safe arrival of your fish, the breeder should be taking

the following precautions when packing and shipping your Betta fish:

A professional shipping container that's large enough for the

number of fish you've purchased

Styrofoam blocks or peanuts for protecting the container and

fish during shipping

Each fish should be placed inside its own container or plastic

bag. (If plastic bags are used, it should be double or triple-

bagged, to help protect your fish if one of the bags breaks).

The bag should not be full of water - in fact, special canned

oxygen should have been added to the bag before it was

sealed, to create an air bubble for your Betta fish to breathe

during transport.

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Your Betta fish should be shipped "overnight" whether you're

using FedEx, UPS, or the Postal Service.

The bag should be packed inside a specially cut foam block, or

other protective material with Styrofoam peanuts on the bottom

of the shipping container and on all sides.

The shipping container should be marked "Live Fish - Handle

with Care"

If the breeder doesn't follow these basic steps, ask what their method

for transporting is, and make sure that you're comfortable with it. If

not, you have the choice of asking the breeder to ship your Betta fish

differently, or finding a different breeder. By the way, not all breeders

offer a guarantee if your fish doesn't arrive alive. So if your fish is

traveling a long distance, or the weather conditions are extreme, you

might want wait or find a breeder closer to you.

Chapter 4 - The Care and Feeding of Your Betta Fish

Introducing Your Betta Fish into his New Home:

So, you found your new pet, and brought him home. But wait! Don't

just throw him into the tank, toss him some food and expect him to

adapt!

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As has been mentioned before, Bettas can suffer from stress, and

introducing your Betta fish into his new home is something that you

should do with some care and consideration. (After all, he doesn't

know what's going on, and unless you speak fish, you can't explain

that he's about to become king of a brand new castle!)

Here's how to give your Betta the keys to his new home, and give him

a chance to explore the neighborhood.

If your Betta is the Only Fish in the Aquarium:

Put your Betta fish - in the original bag or container he arrived

in - inside the tank. Let him float there for at least 15 minutes

inside that container. This gives equalizes the water

temperature (and gives your Betta a chance to get used to the

temperature in the tank), and also gives him a chance to relax

and look around.

To avoid starting your Betta out in dirty water, when you put

your Betta into his new tank, use a net or tip him in gently - but

don't add the water he's been swimming in into the tank.

Let your Betta fish swim around and explore for several hours

before feeding him. It won't hurt him, and it will give him a

chance to feel settled in.

How and When to Add More Fish to the Tank:

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According to Betta fish experts, the safe maximum number of fish in

your aquarium is to plan one inch of adult fish for every gallon of

water in the tank. (This means that if your Betta is going into a one

gallon container, then it should be the only fish.) And if you're buying

fish that have not reached adult size, you need to make your

calculations based on how big they'll get, not how big they are when

you get them.

To start adding more fish to the tank, start with two strong, healthy

fish for every ten gallons of water. You need to go through the first

water stabilization process (six to eight weeks) before adding any

more. After the water has had a chance to stabilize, and your

readings show continued low levels of nitrites and ammonia, you can

begin adding on or two fish a week until you've reached the maximum

population level for your tank size, (or the total number of fish youwant to keep.)

By introducing the fish in this way, it allows the good bacteria in your

tank to adjust to the additional population before adding more. If your

ammonia and nitrite levels begin to rise, make a 25% water change,

and monitor the levels carefully for the next two or three days. Don't

add any more fish until the levels have gone back down.

Friends of Betta Fish - How to Choose Other Fish to

Add to Your Aquarium

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Contrary to what you may think, your Betta fish is not a solitary

creature, and actually enjoys the company of other fish. However

there are some fish that you should never put into a tank with your

Betta - either because they are natural enemies, or because they'll

be attracted to your Betta fish's long flowing fins and tail, and try to

"take a bite" every now and then!

Here are some fish that DON'T belong in the tank with your Betta

fish:

Gouramis

Platy

Variatus

Any species that has long fins

Guppies

Fish that make good companions for Betta fish include:

Angelfish

Swordfish

Cory

Catfish

Some other tips to assure a happy, healthy mixed fish population:Make sure that you don't put any cold water fish into the tank

with your Betta - because somebody is going to end up getting

sick (goldfish for example, are cold water fish, and can't survive

in water that's too hot. But if you put a Betta fish into water

that's too cold, he will become listless, won't eat and may die.

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Choose slow-moving fish. Some fish swim around very fast,

and can break your Betta fish's bubble nest, not to mention

make him very nervous and stressed out.

Snails are good friends in a fish tank because they eat the

debris (leftover food) and other organic matter. (But if you

suddenly have too many snails, it means that you're not

keeping the tank clean enough, and there is too much leftover

food. Snails are asexual, and it only takes one to reproduce).

When introducing a new fish to the tank, make sure you monitor

the behavior of the rest of the fish for a couple of hours, and if

anyone is getting too aggressive, remove it at once.

A lot of the happy cohabitation is going to depend on your Betta

fish's personality and habits. Just like people, Bettas have their

own unique likes and dislikes, and your Betta fish will be no

exception. Pay attention to his nonverbal clues and he'll let youknow what he likes and what (or who) he doesn't.

Socialization Issues - Fighting, Being with Other

Bettas, Livin with Other Breeds of Fish

Why Betta Fish Fight Each Other

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Betta fish fight to protect their territory, to ensure that they have

enough food, and also because they want to be "king of the hill" when

it comes time for them to breed. These are genetic traits, and you

won't be able to train your fish not to fight.

When you have two male Betta fish in the tank, they will "flare" at

each other - (this means they puff up, flaring out their fins and gill

covers, to make themselves look bigger and more threatening.)

Often one fish will admit defeat and swim away, leaving the other

male victorious.

When people began keeping and fighting Betta fish, aggression was

bred into them, but over the last few years, this trait has begun to be

bred out of them.

Most of the time male Bettas will only attack other males. However

it's not totally unheard of for a male Betta fish to attack a new female

or one that he feels threatened by, so it's always a good idea to keep

an eye on your Betta fish when you first introduce another fish into

the tank, or if you're putting your Betta in with other fish.

Sometimes more aggressive Betta fish will nip or bite the other fish.

So if you see this happening, remove the aggressive one right away

to avoid injuries.

How to Keep Your Betta Fish from Fighting:

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There really is only one way - don't put two male Bettas in the same

tank. If you only have one tank and two male Bettas, you have a

couple of choices - the first is to use a "fish condo".

Fish Condos: These are clear plastic containers with air holes that let

the tank water flow through them. Depending on the size of your

tank, you may be able to fit in a two, three or four space condo. Each

Betta fish has his own space, and you can put up visual barriers such

as plants or java moss so that he can't see the other Betta.

You can also put a single mesh divider in one section of your tank

that will keep your male Betta fish separated from each other.

Flaring and Showing Off

If you're going to "show" your Betta fish, one of the things the judges

want to see is your Betta flaring.

In addition to flaring at other male Bettas, your Betta may flare when

he's introduced to a new Betta female - a kind of mating dance.

(Again, make sure that he doesn't get too aggressive!) Some male

Bettas will even flare if they catch sight of their own reflections in a

mirror!

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Safety Tip: Don't show your new Betta his reflection or

other male Betta fish right away. Remember, he'll be

stressed out enough from the journey, and needs time to

et used to his new home and new surroundings.

Whenever possible give him a week or so in the tank

alone, to really give him time to get comfortable and

relaxed. Sometimes when Bettas get nervous they'll bite

their own tails - this is a sign of extreme stress, and

Some Betta experts agree that flaring or showing off for female

Bettas is a normal and healthy exercise for your male Betta fish.

They insist that it keeps them alert and interested in what's going on

in their world.

If you only have one Betta fish, you can put a small mirror down in the

tank once in a while. Chances are he will think he's seeing another

male and will flare up, to "warn off" the intruder. Don't do it too often

or for too long, or you could cause your Betta to become stressed.

If you have two male Betta fish in the same tank that are separated

by mesh, here's a trick that is used by Betta Breeders to induce

flaring: About 30 minutes before it's time to feed your Bettas, just

remove the moss or plants and let them naturally discover that they're

not alone - they'll begin flaring as soon as they see each other.

When it's feeding time, go ahead and feed them. When they're done

eating, put the moss or plants back in place.

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Female Betta Fish - Divas in Disguise

Male Betta fish aren't the only ones that can be aggressive. Yourfemale Bettas have a pecking order all their own as well. (Think of a

harem in the days of the Arabian Nights stories) When kept in the

same tank, female Betta fish will establish a social order from the

most dominant to the least. So if you're introducing a new female into

an established tank, keep an eye on the ladies to make sure that no

one is getting pushed around or bullied.

Creating a Calm and Soothing Environment

If your fish is acting agitated or disturbed, or exhibiting signs of stress,

such as biting himself, then it's time to create a calm and soothing

environment. Here are some tips to help:

If your new Betta is very stressed out, add one square inch ofdried Indian Almond leaves (also known as "wild Almond

leaves" or "Ketapang") to the tank water, and let it seep over

night. It will turn the water brown (like tea), but according to a

Betta expert at "tothefish.com", your Betta fish will love it! The

leaves contain organic acids tannins and humic, and lowers the

pH of the water, absorbs harmful chemicals and may inhibit

harmful forms of bacteria. In addition to producing water very

much like that of the natural environment of Betta fish, it also

has healing properties, and has been known to help fish when

they are pale and floating on the bottom of the tank, or refusing

to eat or after injuries. Some Betta breeders also use it to help

condition the bodies of small fry.

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If your Betta seems agitated for no apparent reason, and you've

got him in a round tank, try one that's rectangular shaped.

Some fish may find the distorted reflections confusing.

Try adding a female to the tank. For many male Betta fish,

once they've accepted the female, having her around has a

calming effect.

Put him in a bigger tank. If your Betta fish is in a small tank, it

may be that he needs more room.

Turn on soft music, your television or even put try a lava lamp

or fiber optic lamp near the tank for a short time. (Pay close

attention to your Betta's behavior though - this calms some

Betta fish, while it agitates others.)

Clean his tank. It may be that the dirty water is making him sick

or agitated.

Feeding Your Betta Fish

The first thing you need to know is that Bettas are basically meat

eaters.

The second thing is that they love live food - mosquito larvae, live

blood worms and brine shrimp. The problem is that live food is prone

to carry bacteria and parasites (and let's face it - not really an

attractive idea for the owners to have to touch either!)

There is a huge variety of Betta fish food on the market - everything

from flakes to live food. So how do you choose?

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Here's what NOT to feed your Betta:

Fish flakes (your Betta's mouth isn't cut out for this type of food,

and you'll probably find he nibbles and tastes and then just

swims away).

Live food (too many parasites or bacteria that can harm your

fish)

Food blocks (although they are advertised as being a good way

to feed your fish while you're on vacation, in reality they pollute

the water and your fish won't like them).

Too much of one kind of fish food (just like us, Betta fish like -

and need - variety).

The best food for your Betta is going to be freeze-dried brine shrimp.

Not only is it safe from bacterium and parasites, but once it hits the

water, it will quickly thaw, and tastes like the live variety to your Betta

fish.

As a special treat, occasionally offer freeze-dried bloodworms.

For more information and ideas about the perfect food choices for

your Betta fish, check with your vet, local pet store or Betta breeder.

Don't "Supersize Me" Please! (How Much to Feed

Your Betta Fish)

Remember, your Betta has a very small stomach, and he really

doesn't need much food. A good rule of thumb to follow is to feed

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your Betta fish as much food as he or she can eat in 2 or 3 minutes.

And make sure to remove any floating food pieces after 5 minutes,

because if left in the tank, it will just float down to the bottom and start

to decay, which causes dirty water and illnesses.

How Often To Feed Your Betta

Only feed adult Betta fish once a day. According to leading Betta

experts, here are a few other tips you should follow to keep your

Betta healthy and happy:

Feed your Betta fish about an hour before or after sunset. This

will simulate his natural environment, because that's when live

bugs often come out and land in the water.

Choose a set day of each week not to feed your Betta at all.

This will help to make sure that his digestive tract doesn't get

overloaded, and will help to keep him healthy and strong.

Check with your vet, pet store or Betta breeder for specific

information about the best brand names of food and types and

varieties to feed him.

Everything You Need to Know About Changing the

Water in the Tank

Breeders and veterinarians agree that in the majority of cases, the

leading causes of death for Betta fish can be linked back to a dirty

tank.

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When you change the water in the tank weekly, you're reducing the

ammonia and nitrites that will continually be produced in the tank,

while the good bacterium continues to multiply and grow.

By checking the levels once or twice a week (or if the water becomes

cloudy once you've past the first stage of bacterial growth), you'll be

able to monitor when the ammonia and nitrite levels get too high, and

can add an extra water changing if necessary. (Remember too that

high levels of ammonia and nitrites cause your Betta fish to

experience stress and over time, this can kill him).

Use a good water conditioner when you're replacing the water, and

remember to make sure that the water you add is the same

temperature as the water still in the tank, to avoid putting your fish

into shock. Carefully monitoring of the water every few days will helpyou to ensure that your fish stay healthy and disease free.

Therefore it's vitally important that you build some time into your

schedule to clean your Betta's tank once every week.

If you follow these simple steps, and put the cleaning into your

schedule, you'll find it's not at all difficult.

Leave your fish in the tank whenever possible during cleanings

- it causes them less stress or shock from too drastic a change

in water temperatures.

Use a siphon to clean out any gunk from under the gravel,

especially if you're using an under gravel filter. (Remember to

gently clean the filter using water from the fish tank).

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Never use soaps, cleaning products or chemicals to clean the

tank - they can be harmful or even deadly to your Betta fish.

Use an algae scrapper or scrubby (that's only used for your fish

tank) to clean of any accumulated algae or other debris that's

clinging to the sides of your tank.

Use either a siphon hose or a scoop (again that's only used for

your fish tank) to remove the correct amount of water from the

tank.

If you've got algae growing on plants or other decorations,

clean them with warm water, or water saved from the fish tank,

and use a scrubby, but no soap or detergents.

Replace the gravel and any decorations that were removed.

Trim back any plants and take out dead leaves.

Fill the tank back up with treated water that is the same

temperature.

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Chapter 5: Love is in the Air - Breeding Your Bettas

Many people who start off with one Betta fish at first decide to buy

another one later on. And then after that, they decide to try breeding

their Bettas.

This isn't as easy as it sounds, especially for the beginner. In fact,

unless you're serious about breeding, and are ready to take on the

additional responsibility, time and cost involved, my suggestion would

be for you not to do it.

But if you do decide to try breeding your Betta fish, here are some

simple tips that will help you to get started, and increase your

chances of success:Don't buy Betta fish that you intend to breed from a pet store.

Chances are the fish will be too old, not healthy enough or from

impure strains. All of these factors mean that your chances of

success will be slim to none.

Buy your Betta fish from a reputable Breeder, and ask for their

help in choosing the right breeding pair. (Most breeder experts

agree that the best pair will be brother and sister, and come

from the same group of fry.)

Buy two pairs each of male and female Betta fish. That way if

one pair doesn't like each other, or there are other problems,

you've got a back-up.

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Buy young Betta fish for Breeders. Don't look for the flowing

fins and bright colors - they're often too old for breeding.

Instead, look for younger fish - ideally between 8 and 12

months old.

Breed the same strain together - mixing breeds often yields

poor results, and there are some pairs that are totally

incompatible to breed together. If you are going to mix strains,

talk to an experienced breeder first for his or her

recommendations about colors, fin and tail shapes, etc.

Choose fish that have the colors you're looking for. And don't

breed a male that's aggressive - because that's a genetic trait

that is passed down.

Make sure the female isn't larger than the male. During

breeding, the male wraps his body around the female to fertilize

the eggs, and if she's bigger than he is, it will be physicallyimpossible.

Setting Up a Breeding Tank

Just like when you set up your first fish tank, you have to set up a

separate tank for breeding. Choose a suitable 10 gallon (37.86 liters)

tank, and follow these steps - do this about two weeks before you're

going to start breeding:

Prepare the water (it's the same procedure as you used for

your regular aquarium)

Install the heater (make sure to get it in the right position and let

it sit in the water for a half hour before turning it on, to avoid

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just don't want to deal with live food, then it's okay to use the freeze-

dried. Follow the same feeding procedure - hand feed your fish, and

only give them as much as they can eat in two minutes. After that,

remove all excess food with a turkey baster.

Introducing Your Betta Fish into the Breeding Tank

Start by introducing the male into the tank. Put him into a cup and

float it in the new tank for about a half hour, to let him adjust to the

new water temperature. After half an hour, add some of the tank

water to the cup, and wait for another 20 minutes to a half hour.

Then release him into the tank. Let him look around and check thingsout for while. After a couple of hours, put the female into a smaller

tank and set it next to the breeding tank so the two can get a look at

each other.

If he starts flaring and she starts showing vertical stripes, it means

they're interested in each other! He should start building a bubble

nest - but this could take anywhere from a few days to a week or

more, so you're going to have to be patient.

If after an hour or so they're not showing any interest in each other, or

worse, the female is flaring at the male - which is her way of saying

"Get Lost!" then it's time to try the second female.

Introducing the Female Betta into the Tank

If they've shown that they're interested in each other, then it's time tointroduce the female into the tank.

Make sure the temperature of the water is around 82 F. Remove all

but about 5 inches of water in the tank. (This simulates the dry

season in your fish's natural environment, which is their normal

mating time.) You may have to adjust the filter so that it's still

working properly now that there is less water in the tank.

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Start by floating the female in a cup, and letting her get used to thetemperature of the water. Follow the same steps that you did when

you introduced the male into the new tank - but when you're ready toput your female into the water, insert the glass tube from a hurricane

lamp, placing the biggest end down into the water, with the narrowerend extending up out of the water. Carefully put the female into the

tube, and let her and the male get a closer look at each other. If

they're still acting interested, after half an hour, release lift the glass

tube out of the tank, and let her begin to swim around.

You need to monitor their behavior for the next couple of hours -

make sure that the male isn't getting too aggressive, and that he's not

attacking her to the point of really hurting her.

Timely Tip: Some aggression during this period is normal

- after all, you want them to be excited to be together, and

the male should be flexing his fishy muscles and showing

off for her. He'll probably be swimming around her in

circles, and maybe rubbing against her or pushing her.

That's all normal! What you don't want is for them to be

in opposite corners of the tank ignoring each other, or

fighting enough that the neighbors would call the policeabout a domestic dispute!

What Happens During Spawning

As strange as it seems, one of the signs that the male Betta is readyto spawn is when he begins biting the female. She will probably react

by swimming away and hiding, but will venture out from time to time,

and then hide again. At some point however, she will come out from

hiding, swimming with her head pointed down submissively toward

the male.

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At this point, he will become almost frenzied - probably swimming in

circles around her, building his bubble nest, and flaring like crazy!

They will begin swimming together, probably swimming around eachother, and it may look as if they're caressing each other, or it may

look as if they're still fighting. If it gets rough, don't separate them,

but keep a close eye on them - some males will actually kill their

mates by being too rough.

When they find the right angle and their bodies fit together perfectly,

the male will wrap around her and squeeze tightly and lock in place

for a few seconds - they may even sink to the bottom of the tankduring this "embrace."

When he lets her go, she'll be temporarily paralyzed, and he'll most

likely swim to the bottom of the tank to see if she's released any

eggs. If not, they'll repeat the process as many times as it takes until

she does.

As soon as she releases her eggs, he will fertilize them. The eggs

will sink to the bottom of the tank, and he'll begin the process ofswimming down, gathering them up in his mouth, and carrying them

up and attaching them gently to the bubble nest. Since there could

be as many as 500 fertilized eggs, this is a lot of work - back and

forth, up and down. But he'll do it quickly and almost mechanically.

He may be so involved in taking care of the eggs that he'll even

refuse to eat for the next couple of days. Don't worry - he'll start

eating again when his job is done.

While he's doing this, the female will swim away and may hide again.

At this point, it's a good idea to remove her from the tank to makesure that she doesn't start eating the eggs. (Also, if she swims too

near the bubble nest, he may kill her.)

Just make sure that you don't disturb the bubble nest when you take

her out.

After you've taken her out, cover the top of the tank either with plastic

wrap or a lid, so that there is no cool air moving over the bubble nest.

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You want a high level of humidity in the tank while the fry are growingtoo, as this helps the development of their labyrinth. If you don't do

this - most of your fry will drown, so it's very important!

Make sure that you're changing the water in the tank every other daystarting about 24 hours after the fry are born - but be very careful that

they don't get caught up in the siphon! You'll want to test the water

every day, and monitor the water temperature carefully.

Over the next two days, you'll see the male Betta periodically take theeggs into his mouth, to clean them. After a couple of days, the

chemicals in his mouth change, and will dissolve the outer layer ofthe egg shell so that the fry are released.

About thirty-six hours after spawning, you should begin to notice little

black dots that resemble commas on a typewritten page. They will

begin to fall out of the bubble nest and sink to the bottom of the tank.

The male Betta will make several trips to the bottom of the tank to

patiently retrieve them, and put them back inside the bubble nest.

Shortly after that, the fry will begin swimming in a horizontal position

on their own. When that starts happening, you can remove the male

Betta from the tank. (If he starts eating the fry, you can remove him

earlier.)

When you remove him, the fry will begin falling again to the bottom of

the tank - don't worry, they will be fine until it's time to start feeding

them.

Feeding the Fry

In the beginning, the fry will live off the egg sack, and you don't have

to do anything. When they start swimming on their own, you'll need

to begin feeding them with a product called "microfood" or "Infusoria"

or other liquid food that you can buy from your local pet store. They'll

need to be fed 4 or 5 times a day.

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After about two weeks, you'll need to begin feeding them live babybrine shrimp or microworms. Once they are about 1 inch (2.54

centimeters) long, you can begin feeding them ground up adult Bettafood - the freeze dried is fine. Reduce the number of feedings per

day to two or three. Remove all the food they don't eat after fiveminutes, to help keep the water clean.

Characteristics of Your New "Small Fry"

Your fry will be very small when born, and they don't grow rapidly. In

fact, it will take about 7 months before you notice that they begin

really growing or gaining colors.

Your fry aren't going to be very active during this stage of their

development either. Most of the time, they'll probably sit on the

bottom of the tank and wait for you to feed them.

But as they grow, keep an eye on them and watch for aggressive

behavior from some of the males. If they start getting too aggressive

with the other fry, then it's time to remove them from the breeding

tank and put them into their own containers. Females can usually bekept together longer, but again, watch for aggression and be

prepared to remove aggressive females too.

If Your First Breeding Attempt Fails

First of all, don't get discouraged. Successful breeding depends onso many different factors, and you won't have control over many of

them. If your first attempt doesn't work out, try again in a couple ofweeks, using a different pair.

One good practice when you're just getting started is to take lots of

notes - about the time of day, the weather, the temperature, the

temperature in the tank, the actions and reactions of the fish, etc.

That way, when you're talking to a breeder about what happened,

you won't have to try and rely on memory alone. And it may be the

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breeder may be able to give you some valuable insight about what todo - or not to do - the next time you try to breed your Betta fish.

Chapter 6: Common Health Problems and

Treatments for Your Betta Fish

As was mentioned earlier in this book, most Betta illnesses can be

traced back to one thing - dirty water in the aquarium. However,there are a couple of other problems as well - that if you pay

attention to them, you can prevent illness - which is a lot easier than

trying to treat it after the fact.

Before handling anything in the tank or your Betta fish, wash your

hands thoroughly - (and use a natural soap, with no preservatives oradditives or perfumes.)

Handling Your Fish

Unless it's absolutely necessary, NEVER pick your fish up with

your hands - squeezing your fish even a little bit can cause

internal injuries

Don't touch your fish or pet it, as you'll damage the slime coat

which is nature's way of protecting it from illness and disease

If you must pick up your fish by hand (use a net whenever

possible), try to keep it in the palm of your hand only, and don't

try holding it between your fingers. If possible, cup your hand

and let it float in a little aquarium water, rather than resting

directly on your palm

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Water Precautions

Follow a regular schedule for cleaning the tank and do partialwater changes once a week

Use the right additives to the water, and follow mixing directions

on the package carefully

Monitor and maintain the proper water temperature and don't

let it vary more than one or two degrees

Feeding Precautions

Feed your Betta on a regular schedule

Don't over-feed your Betta fish and remove leftover food right

away

Give your Betta fish the proper food - no flakes, or blocks and if

you're using live food make sure you clean it first

If your fish does get sick or injured, you can contact your Betta

breeder, your local pet store (if they have a fish expert on staff) or

your local vet, to get advice and information.

But in the meantime, check out the chart on the next page forinformation and treatment advice about some of the most common

illnesses, and injury problems.

Remember though - this information should not be substituted for

sound medical advice, and neither the author or publisher of this book

take any responsibility for the consequences if your fish should get

worse, or die.

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Common Illnesses, Ailments, Injuries and How to

Treat Them

Symptoms

Fish die suddenlyfor no

apparent reason

Sudden death, presence of

worms noted hanging from

anus, excessive or rapid

weight loss, lethargic

Analysis of Problem

Possible poisoning

Endoparasites

Bacterial or Parasitical

Infection

Fish stay near the bottom of

tank

Fish stay near the top of the

tank

Fish are sluggish and refuse to

eat or eat less than normal

reatment

Post-mortem exam necessary

for proper diagnosis

Usuallycaused byeating live

rown worms. Treat with

parasitical product such as

Metrozol

est water for chlorine or

other harmful chemicals

Examine fish and treat with

proper medicine

Do a 100% water change with

properlytreated, aged water

lean tank and test storage

ontainers for chemical

residue

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Fish lose their colorOxygen levels too low

Fish rub against plants,

ornaments or sides of tank &

mayshow a "silver flash" on

underbelly

Possible skin irritation or

allergy

heck O2 Levels in everya.m.

If consistentlylow, install anair pump

est water for ammonia,

nitrite & pH levels.

Use additives and do a water

hange

Examine fish for parasites

(such as Trichodina, flukes

and white-spot

reat as recommended

Fish has small white spots that Bacterial infection called

look like salt on skin and fins, "Ichtyophthirius" or "Ich" or

mayalso have mucus on skin; "Ick"

rubs against sides of tank and

ornaments, maybe listless and

lie on bottom of tank

Add 1 teaspoon of pure rock

salt (available at grocery store)

for everygallon of water

Increase water temperature in

tank to between 81 - 83

uring treatment

If salt treatment is not

ffective, purchase "ick"

treatment medication at pet

store and follow directions

Betta covered with a thin gold

or rust colored film, loses its

color, rubs against sides of

tank and ornaments, loses

appetite

Betta has white colored

patches on skin that look like

cotton, or skin is inflamed or

patches of eroding skin

Infectious parasite called

"Velvet".

Quarantine infected fish

Follow same treatment for Ich

Fish seem to be experiencing

difficultybreathing

Fungal Infections - either

Saprolegenia or Columnaris

(also called cotton mouth

fungus)

Low O2, or dissolved 02 in

water

Filter clogged or dirty

reat with Methylene Blue an

ffective anti-fungal treatment

available at local pet store or if

that doesn't work, useaquarium tetracycline

heck 02 levels in a.m. - if

onsistentlylow, buyan air

pump

lean filter and make sure it's

working properly

High chemical levels in tank

water

est water & adjust as needed

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O2 in water are within normal Quarantine fish & give highlevels - possible viral

infection

protein diet; clean tank daily,

add teaspoon aquarium saltper gallon of tank water

Fish stays on bottom of tank,

or buries self in water,

surfaces onlyto breathe

Betta Fish refuses to eat

Milky gray patches on skin

Dirtywater

Possible parasites on fish

Possible bacterial infection

lean tank and do 100% water

hange

Do a water change

Add teaspoon of aquarium

salt per gallon of tank water

heck water for ammonia,

nitrite and pH levels. Adjust as

needed.

reat water with Methylene

lue

Fish seems unusually agitated High chemical levels in water Check nitrite, ammonia and

or hides all the time

Shredded or Torn fins

Fins appear to be witheringaway

High levels of organic debris

in tank

Potential Bacterial infection

Possible Fin Rot

Betta appears to be swollen or Parasitic Cysts

patches of skin are swollen

pH levels. Adjust as needed.

Do a water change. Clean and

heck filter

reat with Methylene Blue

reat with Neosulfex for up to1 month until healed

hange water and treat with

aquarium salt

Swelling accompanied by

raised scales

Internal Tumors, unusual

Damage caused byother fish

in tank or tank ornaments

Bacterial infection reat tank with Methylene

lue

growths or protrusions on skin Genetic Cancers, lymphocytes No treatment available. Do notor fins, large & smooth

growths on skin, or growths

resembling cauliflower, may

be red and white

Tumors uyadditional fish from that

line, and do not breed that line

carp pox, warts (papillomas), Some maydisappear on their

own over time

CloudyEyes (Corneal

Opacity)

Damage Caused by Other fish Monitor behavior of other fish,

or ornaments in tank

Poor Diet

remove and replace dangerous

tank ornaments

Add more protein to diet

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DirtyWater

White coating on eye

Bacterial Infection

Possible fungus infection

One or both eyes bulge

outwards, loss of appetite,

lethargic or listless

Bacterial infection called

Popeye - caused bydirty

water

Spinal Deformities Electrical shock

Improper use of medical

treatments

Poor nutrition

Presence oftoxins in water

Genetic Conditions

Fish swims in unusual manner, Swim-bladder infection

mayfloat on back when not

swimming, appears dizzyor

off-balance

caused byover eating

Scales develop raised prickly

appearance resembling pine

cones, abdomen swells, fish

dies suddenly

Swim-bladder bacterial or

viral infection or other organ

disease

Kidneydisease or intestinal

blockageDropsy

heck chemical levels, change

water

Apply anti-bacterial treatment

reat water with Methylene

lue or anti-fungal medication

reat with antibiotic called

Ampicilex; Change water

twice as often during

treatment; maintain regular

water changes and tank

leaning

heck all electrical appliancesin tank

Follow all directions on

packages carefully

heck diet and provide more

protein

est water, adjust as

necessary, do a water change

o treatment available. Do notuyfrom that strain again and

o not breed that strain

ut back on amount of food,

ut back on brine shrimp and

loodworms

Quarantine fish and apply

Methylene Blue to water

Fatal, no treatment available

Highlycontagious, quarantine

sick fish immediately. Add 1

teaspoon of salt per gallon of

water. Applyaquarium

etracycline. Slight chance of

survival, but usuallyfatal

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