Best Travel Guides: Molokai, Grenadines, Mentawai

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  • 8/9/2019 Best Travel Guides: Molokai, Grenadines, Mentawai

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    Drn CoeeFy 25 minutes rom

    Maui to Mookai on

    board Mokuee Airines

    or Isand Air. Enjoy your

    rst views o Mookais

    word-amous sea cis.

    I made sure to heed the sign

    that visitors see when exit ing

    the isands airport: Sow Down,

    This is Mookai.There are ony a ew roads on

    the sma isand. Head toward

    Coees o Hawaii, a pantation

    and espresso bar, to order your

    rst o many Mocha Mamas. The

    beoved chocoaty iced coee

    drink is the unocia beverage

    o the isand or good reason.

    Eat dinner at the KuaapuuCookhouse. I its Thursday, its

    prime-rib night, so dont even

    ook at the menu. Order the

    specia a huge sab o bee

    cooked to order and served with

    rice and gried veggies and

    choose the papaya-seed dress-

    ing or your garden saad.Head 30 minutes west on the

    ony road toward Maunaoa, and

    check into the Mookai Komo-

    hana B&B. Your hosts, Tom and

    Kary Rancour, wi be waiting up

    to wecome you.

    Rde a MueMeet thepaniolos at

    Mookai Mue Ride in

    ront o their stabe at

    8 a.m. There are ony

    two ways to get down

    to the Kaaupapa peninsua: I

    you choose to hike, get ready or

    a ong, muddy day. Opt or the

    mue ride, and a you have to dois et your mue do its thing it

    knows the 26 switchbacks down

    to Kaaupapa Nationa Histori-

    ca Park better than you do, so

    theres no need to be nervous on

    this steep descent.

    At the bottom o the trai,

    board the bus with Damien Tours,

    the ony operator permitted to

    ead groups through this ercey

    travel guide

    protected nationa park. You

    make severa stops Mother

    Mariannes grave, St. Francis

    Church but the highight is

    St. Father Damiens seaside

    grave. At the end o the tour, your

    mues wi carry you back up to

    the top o the trai.

    Freshen up and then head to

    the Hote Mookai, just east o

    downtown Kaunakakai. Fridaynight is Kupuna Night when the

    isands eders break out ukue-

    es and perorm or diners at the

    propertys oceanront restaurant.

    Ater dinner, stop or another

    Mocha Mama at Coees o

    Hawaii. (Great any time o day.)

    You be gad you ueed upon caeine; at 10 p.m., Kane-

    mitsus Bakery and Coee Shop

    begins seing hot, reshy baked

    Mookai bread. Wak down the

    aey just to the right o the

    bakery and ook or the hand-

    painted sign or the ine o

    peope. A huge oa sathered in

    two toppings is $5.75.

    Scuba DveYou can meet Tim

    rom Mookai Fish &

    Dive at the Kaunakakai

    Harbor. Ask to see the

    Big Turte House or an

    a but guaranteed sea-turte

    sighting. Or et Tim expore new

    sites and see what you discover

    with him. He might even et you

    name the dive site.

    You be hungry ater the dive,so have a hamburger, ries and

    a shake at Mookai Burger in

    downtown Kaunakakai.

    Stro down the street to

    on the history but remember

    to bring your own unch. This u-

    day adventure isnt an easy hike.

    Back in Kaunakakai, eat aneary dinner at Mookai Pizza

    Cae. Its the ony pace on the

    isand to get a pizza pie and

    one o the ony spots that wi be

    open on a Sunday evening.

    On your way back to Komohana,stop and watch the sunset at

    Kapuaiwa Coconut Grove. Just

    beware o aing coconuts.

    Ht the BeachAsk Tom to make

    his amous banana-

    and-macadamia-nut

    pancakes or breakast.

    Pack a cooer with

    cod drinks and snacks. Tom and

    Kary can end you a reiabe

    map o the west-coast beaches

    and point out the best spots

    to snorke (Dixie Maru Beach),

    picnic (Kaupoa Beach) and take

    a stro (Papohaku Beach).

    Stop at Coees o Hawaii andorder one ast Mocha Mama or

    the road. You have to speed up

    again or the fight back home.

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    The FctsPASSPORT NEEDED > No CURRENCY > U.S. doars

    OffiCiAl lANgUAgE > Engish WHEN TO gO > May or dry, bamyweather and a historic hua estiva lOCAl DRiNk > Mocha Mama

    How to Do >MolokaiRustic charm meets tropical paradise on Molokai.And the people here are some of the warmest, most

    colorful friends Ive ever met traveling. This maynot be the Hawaiian island for everyone but itwas denitely the one for me. A DRi E N N E E gO lf, E Di TO R

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    MOlOkAi

    Kalaupapa National Park

    Komohana

    B&B

    Purdys Mac Nut Farms

    kauanaaa

    kuaapuuCoffees of Hawaii

    Haaw

    Airport

    Papohaku Beach

    Upload THIS ITInerary To yoUr pHone now

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  • 8/9/2019 Best Travel Guides: Molokai, Grenadines, Mentawai

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    Start Reaxn on CanouanThe Moorings cruise o the Grena-

    dines departs rom Canouan. So

    rst I f ew to Barbados (you can stay

    overnight at the Crane, i you ike). Then I

    took a erry to Canouan, amous or Rafes

    Canouan and its spa with gass-foor treat-

    ment rooms set over the water. linger there.

    Set Sa or BequaBoard the Moorings cruise, where

    Capt. Simon Goodhead and ance/

    rst mate louise Coe take care o

    everything. First stop: Bequia, perhaps the

    Grenadines most sociay vibrant isand.

    There are enough bars aong the waterront

    How to Do>GrenadinesMany travelers do the BVIsailing tour, but I think this

    Grenadines route is evenmore memorable, morebeautiful, more true to theold Caribbean we love. j O H N B R A D l E Y , C O N T R i B U T i N g E D i T O R

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    o Port Eizabeth or a proper pub craw; the

    busting ruit market is a must-shop and a

    must-eat is the obster pizza at Macs.

    Drn Up MustqueThe saiing cruise continues arther

    south to Mustique and egendary

    Basis Bar. Im sti dreaming about

    the rozen Mustique drinks. But ater, yound yourse drawn to Macaroni Beach, with

    a ong stretch o white sand. Its wakabe,

    but youre better o buying a ride rom

    one o the taxi drivers by the dock. Cimb

    the hiside at the south end o the beach

    or a birds-eye view. I you want to spend

    the night, Firefy is a great treehouse-stye

    boutique hote on the more ivey west side.

    Eat Up the Tobao CaysUpon arriva here, theres a good

    chance that Romeo, a boat boy, wi

    show you the resh obster you have

    or dinner that night. You can be sure to work

    up an appetite by snorkeing aong the ree

    and in the protected sea-turte agoon.

    get to Mopon EaryHeres the thing about Mopion its

    amost too awesome. Essentiay a

    hump o pure white sand in the sea, it

    has just one permanent thatched umbrea

    thats set near its highest point. I you want

    Mopion to yourse, make sure the captain

    pans to arrive just ater sunrise. Its your

    ony chance. Take it.

    Sette nto Unon isandAs you enter Citon Harbor, Jantis

    Happy Isand greets you. It ooks ike

    a foat ing patio. You shoud stop by

    or a beer. On Union, ook or some hand-painted signs on the main road poking out

    o the bushes just past Evergreen Cae. This

    is the entrance I ound to Costeo Paradise,

    the conederation o bars and art that cu-

    minates with the hitop Peican Bar and the

    best happy-hour view in the Grenadines.

    Swm o MayreauWith a popuation o 300, Mayreau

    barey ees inhabited. Cimb to the

    church at the isands highest point to

    see the wide-open view. Say goodbye to the

    Grenadines with a swim in Sat Whiste Bay.

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    travel guide

    Chec nto the kandu ResortFor this remote region, trave options

    are imited to charter boats and sur

    resorts. O the at ter, the Kandui Resort

    is considered the Cadiac. The a-incusive

    sits on its own private isand, can arrange your

    trave and hosts just 16 guests at a t ime. The

    resortsumas (Mentawai huts) oer air condi-

    tioning, hot water and Wi-Fi. But I mainy just

    sept there. The resorts odge and the daiy sur

    excursions to nearby isands are the big draw.

    Sur SaeyWake up, appy sunscreen and enjoy atraditiona egg breakast or a oca one

    caed Nasi Goreng. Then hop on one

    o two boats headed out or the morning sur

    session. There are 16 sur spots accessibe by

    canoe rom Kanduis odge that oer waves or

    any ski eve. I started on the smaer breaks

    rst. Regardess o where you go, sur guides

    join you, each o whom are trained paramedics

    a huge comort so ar rom civiization.

    Repeat, Repeat, RepeatSavor the daiy sur routine o morning

    and aternoon sur sessions with meas

    in between. The sta can aso arrange

    other activities such as touring a nearby

    viage or snorkeing or shing.

    Expore and Meet ShamansJump in a ski to expore the Dead

    Forest, a ed o uprooted trees in

    the swampy interior. Or hop in a boat

    headed to v iages in the heart o Siberut. To

    meet shamans, we, they come to you. The

    shamans stop in to entertain guests at the

    Kandui Resort with traditiona dances. Join in

    and i you dare ask them about sous.

    get a SouvenrWood crats abound. To fy home

    with a padde, concea its spear-ike

    appearance with cardboard. Prep or

    questions. Remind yourse this keepsakes

    sou is now connected to yours. Treasure it.

    How to Do>MentawaiOutside of talking with theshamans, the best way to

    experience these Indonesianislands is with a surfboard. E D D Y P A T R i C E l l i , E D i T O R

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