Bespoke - Wikipedia, The Fr..

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Fitting of a bespoke jacket

BespokeFrom Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Bespoke (pronounced bih-spohk') is a British English term employed in a variety of applications to mean an

item custom-made to the buyer's specification. While applied to many items now, from computer software toluxury car appointments, the term historically was applied only to tailored clothing, shirts and other parts of men's apparel involving measurement and fitting.

The distinguishing points of bespoke tailoring are the buyer's total control over the fabric used, the featuresand fit, and the way the garment should be made. More generally, bespoke describes a high degree of customisation, and involvement of the end-user, in the production of the good.

Contents

1 Bespoke clothing1.1 Meaning of the term1.2 Bespoke versus made-to-measure1.3 Savile Row Bespoke1.4 Advertising Standards Authority ruling

2 Other uses3 See also4 Notes5 References

Bespoke clothing

Meaning of the term

The word bespoke itself is derived from the verb tobespeak , to "speak for something", in the specializedmeaning "to give order for it to be made". [1] The termbespoke in fashion is reserved for individually patternedand crafted men's clothing, analogous to women's hautecouture ,[2] in contrast with mass manufactured ready-to-wear (also called off-the-peg or off-the-rack). Whilewidespread in the United Kingdom, the term is rarelyemployed in the United States, although it may be usedby some in the high-end tailoring business.

Bespoke clothing is traditionally cut from a patterndrafted from scratch for the customer, and so differsfrom ready-to-wear, which is factory made in finished

condition and standardized sizes, and from made-to-measure, produced to order from an adjusted block pattern. This opposition of terms did not initially implythat a bespoke garment was necessarily well built, but

poke - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bespok

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The ruling cited the Oxford English Dictionary definition of bespoke as "made to order", and considered thatdespite the fact a bespoke suit was "fully hand-made and the pattern cut from scratch, with an intermediarybaste stage which involved a first fitting so that adjustments could be made to a half-made suit", [11] while asuit made-to-measure "would be cut, usually by machine, from an existing pattern, and adjusted according tothe customer's measurements", [11] "both fully bespoke and made-to-measure suits were "made to order" inthat they were made to the customer's precise measurements and specifications, unlike off-the-peg suits". [11]

Some, such as the etymologist Michael Quinion, considered the ruling showed that "the historic term of arthad moved on". [14] Some others concluded that "bespoke tailoring has traditionally, if unofficially, meantsomething more than the dictionary definition allows" [5] and that the ASA "took a rather ignorant decision todeclare that there is no difference between bespoke and made-to-measure." [15]

Other uses

Once a fashion industry-specific term, bespoke is increasingly being applied to custom specification in otherindustries, including:

computer software, in which it refers to software designed and written for a single company and/ortask telecommunications, referring to non-standard solutions tailored for specific customersfinance, including individually tailored mutual fund portfolios and structured finance productsfurnitureinterior designmusic customised music projects, and production; also alias of rap artiste DeMarvlest is [BeSpoke]].luxury automobile interior appointments and coachbuilding.Bristol Cars in England is one of the rare remaining truly bespoke car manufactures, as its cars areonly made on order, not made on an assembly line, and in making some cars the body parts are still

made on an English Wheel (noting however, that its Chrysler engine & transmission are not bespoke).firearms, particularly luxury sporting arms such as shotguns and rifles, which may include customappointments (stocks made of rare woods, custom engraving, case colouring or other metalwork) andcustom fittingshoemaking, generally provided by small manufacturers working by handperfume, a custom made scent composed specifically for an individualporcelain

jewellery, including timepiecestravel planning [16]

customisation of a particular product or service ( e.g. envelopes)

Internet Marketing, or "Bespoke Strategy" a custom internet marketing strategy usually related to SEOor SEM

See also

Custom-FitHaute coutureMass CustomizationPersonalizationNew bespoke movement

BeSpoke - artiste

Notes


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^ In article published in Textile History (Volume 34, Number 2, November 2003 , pp. 192-213. Ready-to-wear or Made-to-measure? Consumer Choice in the British Menswear Trade ) Laura Ugolini concluded that"interested and well-informed male consumers generally preferred to buy bespoke suits : while usually moreexpensive than their ready-made counterparts, these were also perceived to be better quality, better looking, andbetter value, and therefore most likely to enhance the wearer's sense of self-worth as a manly, discerning andsuccessful consumer".

1.

^ A certain number of formal criteria, including the design for private customers with one or more fittings, mustbe met for a fashion house to use the label and a list of eligible houses is made official every year by the French

Ministry of Industry.

2.

^ The tailor Richard Anderson wrote an article in the Telegraph to explain that "the ASA has got the rulingwrong" (Anderson, Richard (2008-06-18). "Savile Row tailor Richard Anderson: bespoke must mean bespoke"(http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/uknews/2151888/Savile-Row-tailor-Richard-Anderson-bespoke-must-mean-bespoke.html) . The Telegraph . http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/uknews/2151888/Savile-Row-tailor-Richard-Anderson-bespoke-must-mean-bespoke.html. Retrieved 2008-10-10.).

3.

^ In 1895, the Leeds Factory Clothing Co. veered between calling itself "manufacturing clothiers" and "bespoketailors" ( cf. Benson, John (2003). A Nation of Shopkeepers: Five Centuries of British Retailing . HoughtonMifflin Cookbooks. p. 102. ISBN 1860647081.).

4.

References

^ Bailey, Nathan (1756). An Universal Etymological English Dictionary . R. Ware.

1.

^ Art of Textile Designing . Global Media. ISBN8189940031

2.

^ Ugolini, Laura (2003). Men and Menswear:Sartorial Consumption in Britain 1880-1939 ,p.181. Ashgate Publishing, Ltd. ISBN 0754603849

3.

^ Cockroft, Lucy (2008-06-19). "Savile Rowtailors lose fight to preserve the term bespoke"(http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/2149810/Savile-

Row-tailors-lose-fight-to-preserve-the-term-bespoke.html) . The Telegraph .http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/2149810/Savile-Row-tailors-lose-fight-to-preserve-the-term-bespoke.html. Retrieved 2008-10-10.

4.

^ a b c Sim, Josh (2008-07-12). "The b-word: notcut and dried" (http://www.ft.com/cms/s

/0/0ea5cbf6-4eed-11dd-ba7c-000077b07658.html). Financial Times . http://www.ft.com/cms/s

/0/0ea5cbf6-4eed-11dd-ba7c-000077b07658.html.Retrieved 2008-10-10.

5.

^ Benson, John (2003). A Nation of Shopkeepers:Five Centuries of British Retailing , p.102.I.B.Tauris. ISBN 1860647081

6.

^ Norton, Kate (2006-10-31). "Savile Row NeverGoes Out of Style" (http://www.businessweek.com

/globalbiz/content/oct2006 /gb20061030_512497.htm) . BusinessWeek .http://www.businessweek.com/globalbiz/content

/oct2006/gb20061030_512497.htm. Retrieved2007-05-22.

7.

^ Details, April, 20068.^ Savile Row Bespoke Association."Craftsmanship"(http://www.savilerowbespoke.com/About_Us

/Craftsmanship/) .http://www.savilerowbespoke.com/About_Us

/Craftsmanship/. Retrieved 2008-10-10.

9.

^ Savile Row Bespoke Association. "Garmentspecifications" (http://www.savilerowbespoke.com

/About_Us/Craftsmanship/Our_standards /Garment_specifications/) .http://www.savilerowbespoke.com/About_Us

/Craftsmanship/Our_standards /Garment_specifications/. Retrieved 2008-10-10.

10.

^ a b c d e Advertising Standards Authority(2008-06-18). "Sartoriani London"(http://www.asa.org.uk/asa/adjudications/Public

/TF_ADJ_44555.htm) . ASA Adjudications .http://www.asa.org.uk/asa/adjudications/Public

/TF_ADJ_44555.htm. Retrieved 2008-10-09.

11.

^ Advertising Standards Authority. "About theAdvertising Standards Authority"(http://www.asa.org.uk/asa/about/) .http://www.asa.org.uk/asa/about/. Retrieved2008-10-10.

12.

^ Advertising Standards Authority. "The CAPCode: truthfulness rule" (http://www.asa.org.uk

/asa/codes/cap_code

/ShowCode.htm?clause_id=1502) .http://www.asa.org.uk/asa/codes/cap_code /ShowCode.htm?clause_id=1502. Retrieved2008-10-10.

13.

^ Quinion, Michael (2008-09-13). "Bespoke"(http://www.worldwidewords.org/qa/qa-bes4.htm) .World Wide Words .http://www.worldwidewords.org/qa/qa-bes4.htm.Retrieved 2008-10-09.

14.

^ Crompton, Simon (2008-07-01). "A loss to(sartorial) language" (http://www.mensflair.com

/news/a-loss-to-sartorial-language.php) . Men'sFlair . http://www.mensflair.com/news/a-loss-to-sartorial-language.php. Retrieved 2008-10-10.

15.

^ Antrim, Taylor (2009-12-03). "Club Class:Behind the scenes with the new wave of bespoketravel planners (http://magazine.wsj.com/features

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/big-trip/club-class/) ". Wall Street Journal. Retrieved 2009-12-04.

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