BELGIUM OR BUST… - Light Aircraft Association · longer journey. It may be facultative, but I...

Main One of those perfect days when the Channel visibility is simply superb. Here we are approaching the French coast near Cap Gris Nez.

20 | LIGHT AVIATION | April 2020

Reading the Hilaire Belloc quote ‘I have wandered all my life, and I have also travelled; the difference between the two being this, that we wander for distraction, but we travel for fulfilment’ – I’m not exactly sure if either of the depictions are

apt for our little jaunts, or if indeed they fit into any particular category.

A ‘wander’ suggests something without a predetermined destination and ‘travel’ intimates a much longer journey. It may be facultative, but I consider them ‘jaunts’, conjuring up images of a short visitation with an indulgence of some kind. Assuming the aeroplane is running well, runways are drying out and with the prospect of better weather ahead, it’s time to start spreading our wings and take our little machines into their natural environment.

The likelihood is that during the brumal conditions of the last few months, bits and pieces will have been taken off the aircraft, inspected, and repaired or replaced in preparation for the coming season. On occasions, it will have been possible for a local flight here or a lunch stop there, but to go international for a few days with a reasonable expectation of getting back is a touch optimistic for the basic VFR pilot.

People rave about the splendours of winter flying and how some of the best days are found when the axis of the Earth is oriented away from the sun. With, short days, low sun and soggy underfoot, unless it’s from a tarmac runway, give me mid-summer, a period of high

pressure and a destination 400nm or 500nm away every time.

A friend was telling me about a recent trip to Spain, IMC nearly all the way down and most of the way back. How exciting? If you haven’t flown in IMC for any length of time, it’s extremely tiring and well… very grey! And, of course, all the things we usually delight in looking at can’t be seen, and you are totally reliant on the instruments for navigation. Each to his own I suppose.

My first introduction to Kortrijk, Belgium – or to the airport at least – was fraught, dodging thunderstorms en route to the vintage fly-in at Schaffen-Diest, sneaking in as best I could.

Compared to today it was not an easy time, navigation was without GPS, weather forecasts were a form of educated guesswork, and added to the mix was a nervous, low-hours pilot filled with a desire. As time went by, GPS came along, the internet revolutionised weather access and the pilot gradually gained that hard-earned experience. And what of the desire? Well, that was further enhanced by every trip. In fact, it grew at a rate that could easily compete with that of the fastest-growing 45 genera bamboo.

Originally known as the airfield of Bissegem, Kortrijk airport was created by the Germans in 1916, with Jasta 6 moving in under the command of Staffelführer Oberleutnant Eduard Dostler a year later. By 1918 it had been taken over by the RFC, flying an array of aircraft from DH.9s, F.K.8s, RE.8s, Sopwith Camels and Snipes to S.E.5.As.

Flying Adventure

BELGIUM OR BUST…

In a bid to recapture the thrill of flying for one pilot who had lost his ‘mojo’, Martin Ferid sets off with

him to Kortrijk, Belgium…

LAA04.adventure.V4.LB.indd 26LAA04.adventure.V4.LB.indd 26 24/03/2020 10:3524/03/2020 10:35

April 2020 | LIGHT AVIATION | 21

Being one of only six Belgian Customs airfields, over the years it has been a transiting point, a lunch destination, as well a weekend stopover. My first weekend away with Sian included a night in Kortrijk.

However, my latest outing was with Dave Workman, a paramedic and all-round nice guy, in his Eurostar EV97. With the build finished four years previously, Dave had taken up friends and family, done all the usual stuff and, like many pilots, his flying had reached a plateau and become immotile. In joining our fly-out list he hoped to find new challenges, get across the Channel and maybe rediscover his mojo. Once a person’s flying stagnates, the excitement and thrills tend to diminish and can develop into a self-perpetuating downward spiral, often accompanied by insecurities that get swept ‘under the carpet’. At this stage, without some positive action and some restorative confidence-building, another pilot is at risk heading for a more ‘sedate’ pastime. Well, having met numerous pilots in his current predicament, I felt pretty sure that not only was the antidote close at hand, but we could also add a dimension to his flying that every pilot should try at least once.

Lunch in France…Being based in the Midlands at Pound Green Airstrip, if Dave could get to Kent, we could pop to Belgium for a night and then nip into France for lunch before a leisurely return the following day. And by that, I don’t mean just a visit to the airfields, but into the towns themselves.

One of the pedagogical perks of instructing is being able to issue tasks for the ‘student’, such as checking-out the aeroplane or refuelling, while finishing off a cup of tea and biscuits. Well, on occasions, that complacency can backfire! Being very familiar with our

route to Kortrijk, I had tasked Dave to plan our trip and present it to me for checking. Unfortunately, or maybe fortunately, he discovered a problem I wasn’t aware of. Since my last visit, they had created a TMZ around the airfield and with us being ‘sans-transponder’ it created an issue. The despondency in Dave’s voice was hard to conceal and rather reminiscent of a youngster given a toy at Christmas without the batteries that were needed…

Trying my best to retain some semblance of professionalism and with the kind of quick thinking any politician would have been proud of, I suggested a call to ATC +32 56 36 20 40, as the red tape could be bypassed on their say so. Luckily, they were pretty chilled, unlike their counterparts at nearby Oostende, where you need a flight plan, 8.33 kHz radio, a transponder and a note from your mum – and that’s just for a local flight. The problem was averted, with nothing more than a little dented pride on my part.

Listening out on Headcorn’s frequency, I heard my ride call-up for landing and after a quick turnaround, an hour or so later we were mid-Channel with the White Cliffs behind us, en route to Belgium. From Dave’s perspective, it would be easy to think that the customs official and I were old pals by the greeting we got. Ivan Vanparys was the man on duty, and what a great advocate for the airport, Kortrijk and Belgium itself. When I explained that it was Dave’s first trip, he couldn’t have been more enthusiastic or helpful, much more like a welcoming host than an officious border guard. All I could say was a big thank you for the friendly manner, as opposed to the phlegmatic approach of so many people who are given a bit of authority.

I’m not sure how well it is known, but during WWII the Germans had built a bunker below the control tower that

“People rave about the splendours of winter flying and how some of the best days are found when the axis of the Earth is oriented away from the sun”

Left The little museum under the control tower at Kortrijk is well worth a visit.

Flying Adventure


Flying Adventure


Below The Broel Towers on either side of the River Leie, the only survivors from past fortifications.

has since been converted into a small museum. It was a place I had got to know quite intimately on a previous visit when weather had stopped play. Once mentioning that it would have been nice for Dave to have seen it, Ivan told us to wait while he went in search of the keys for our own private viewing. (http://fasinfo.be/)

Landing feeBooking-in is a self-service affair in the main foyer these days, and fuel can be uplifted with a credit card, although oddly the landing fee still can’t be paid at the time and gets posted on.

If you go for lunch and plan to stay at the airfield, there are three options. Biggles is the formal restaurant (www.restaurantbiggles.be), the bar under the control tower serves simple things like croque Monsieur, and the bar/restaurant just before the exit offers a variety of fast-food type meals. For technophobes, this could well be interesting as meals are ordered on iPads and just appear at your table a while later, very likely the shape of the future. Sitting at the bar, the realisation was

beginning to dawn on Dave as he tried to comprehend just how the pile of bits he had assembled in his garage came to be parked in Belgium, having crossed the Channel and flown through France to get there. To say the man’s demeanour had changed does not do it justice as the ebullience which was effusing from one very happy paramedic, was refreshingly pleasing and infectious.

Getting into town couldn’t be easier. You can, of course, get a taxi, but once out of the airport, about 50 metres away on the other side of the road is the bus stop where the number 40 will get you into town in about 15 minutes.

To add to the day’s excitement our accommodation for the night could best be described using a vernacular from times gone by, when flares, kaftans and drooping moustaches were fashionable. Bootel Ahoi is a converted cargo ship moored on the River Leie that serves as a hotel/bar, not far from the centre of town. Although the rooms/cabins are small and functional, there is a certain fascination about lying on a bed, with


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Flying Adventure

the water level lapping at a porthole above your head. They cost around €70 per night and the captain/owner, Stephan, is a larger than life character who could never be classified as one of life’s ‘also-rans’! Handelskaai 1, 8500 Kortrijk. (www.ahoi.be/kortrijk/ahoi).

Starting life as Cortoriacum this Gallo-Roman town was built on the River Leie (Lys) at the crossroads of two Roman roads and has known its fair share of conflict over the centuries. It has been fought over by the Vikings, Romans, Flemish, French, Portuguese, Spanish, Austrians and Germans, and was liberated in two World Wars by the Allies.

Philip, Count of Flanders, granted the town its city charter in 1190 and, due to good communications from both river and roads, the flax, wool, linen and the textile industry in general flourished.

Although once a walled city, the ongoing fisticuffs mean that the Broel Towers are all that remain of the fortifications today. As definitive symbols of the city, they sit either side of the river and, in spite of seeming identical in appearance, the ‘Speytorre’ was built in 1385, 20 years before the ‘Inghelburghtorre’ in 1415. The walk along the riverbank is particularly pleasant, especially if you have a bit of time on your hands and some sunshine to warm you. Perched in the middle of the bridge connecting the towers is a statue of John of Nepomuk, the Saint of drowning and floods, who oddly enough has ended up at the bottom of the river each time there has been a fracas of any kind.

Once in the centre of town, whatever you do you’re going end up at Grote Market Square, either for an evening stroll, a drink at one of the outside cafés, or even for something to eat or somewhere to sleep.

Out and AboutThe Béguinage is a halidom village within the old town consisting of 41 alms-houses and is said to have been founded in 1238 by Countess Johanna of Constantinople for religiously devout women. Visits are permitted throughout the day. (www2.kortrijk.be)

Broel Museum offers an insight into the town’s history, as well as an audio guide to talk you through both the classical and new artwork exhibits. Broelkaai 6, Kortrijk 8500.

Kortrijk 1302 is a small museum that has particular significance in Flemish history, highlighting the battle of the Golden Spurs which took place on 11 July 1302. Begijnhof-Houtmarkt, Kortrijk 8500 (www.kortrijk1302.be)

There are also two linen and textile museums, which are naturally interwoven into the development of the town’s past prosperity.

For those with an interest in WWI, which likely encompasses most pilots, a look around the battlefields of Ypres is probably easier from here than anywhere else. The 1C train takes about 30 minutes, although if you want the flexibility of a car, Avis delivers to the airfield, or for better prices in town, with cars from around £75 Friday-Monday. Try the comparison site (www.rentalcars.com).

Top This trip was Dave Workman’s first foray into mainland Europe in his Eurostar, and he thoroughly enjoyed the experience.

Above The busy main square in Kortrijk, plenty of ‘frites with everything’ restaurants where you can eat al fresco and watch the world go by.

Right John of Nepomuk, saint of drowning and floods, we can only hope he served the Belgians better that he did the UK in recent months!


Flying Adventure


A knife, a fork, a bottle and a cork…For food, well the French border may only be a few miles away but although the Belgians have their specialities – they are good with chips, chocolate and beer – they can’t cook like the French. Most of the restaurants you’re likely to encounter in and around the central square are very similar, they are dearer than they should be and most serve some variation of steak and chips. Of course, that is where we ended up having our evening meal, watching the world go by as Kortrijk society went about their business and the sun dropped below the horizon.

For the foodies, if money is no issue go to Oud Walle, not far from the station and one of Kortrijk’s best. Koning Albertstraat 4 +32 56 22 65 53. (www.oudwalle.be/nl)

A 20 minute walk away, but more affordable, is the Bistro Bordo, a cosy little restaurant where you can expect a friendly welcome. Sint-Rochuslaan 10, +32 56 32 09 68 (www.facebook.com/Bistro-Bordo).

A bed for the nightFor those using the airfield as a bolthole, who just want to overnight with an early getaway the next day, the Hotel Bell-X is about 100 metres away with rooms around €85 – and I’ve found booking direct cheaper than the comparison sites. +32 56 37 17 71. For details visit www.cubilis.com/en/

In general, hotels are going to be over £100 per night anywhere near the centre. A nice 4-star in that price band with its own sauna and pool is Hotel Wu Wei Kongoweg 23, +32 56 29 01 00 https://wuwei.be/nl. At the other end of the spectrum at about half the price, is the no-frills Hostel Groeninghe Passionistenlaan 1A, 8500 Kortrijk +32 56 98 06 92. For more information visit: www.jeugdherbergen.be/.

The following morning, skipping breakfast and with our flight plan filed, it was not long before we had crossed the border and were on short final for Calais. Just outside the terminal is the No 1 bus stop that will get you into town in about 20 minutes, where we rounded off the weekend with a very pleasant lunch.

The entire trip was an apotheosis of what is possible – and couldn’t have gone any better. After dropping me off later that afternoon, the flight home for Dave must have been like that of a conquering hero. I’m also guessing that he harboured hopes that the other pilots based at the strip had not yet gone home and were there to witness his triumphant return and maybe chat a bit about ‘mojo’.

Meeting Dave was an absolute pleasure. Although it is worth remembering that if you don’t do this kind of thing regularly, the euphoria lasts about four weeks, after which you tend to look back on the episode in mild disbelief as if it actually happened to someone else and you were merely a spectator.

The opportunity is there for the taking as there are so many charmingly romantic, interestingly enjoyable destinations out there. With that thought in mind, I’ll

leave you with three sanguine quotes from an American ground-breaking author of her day, Rita May Brown, and a little food for thought: ‘Lead me not into temptation; I can find the way myself’. ‘Good judgment comes from experience, and experience comes from bad judgment’ and ‘I finally figured out the only reason to be alive is to enjoy it’.

Next month’s Flying Adventure goes to Bourges (LFLD), central France.■

Get touring with the author! Martin Ferid is a Class Rating Instructor and Revalidation Examiner and specialises in helping qualified pilots expand their horizons into Europe, by flying with them in their aircraft both on day trips or for a few days at a time.

If you lack confidence in crossing the Channel, touring in general or indeed any aspects of flying, visit the contact details below. Just ask, as we are only too pleased to help!

A browse through the website’s ‘favourite destinations’ should help with a little inspiration, as it provides a selection of places we’ve visited, giving a snapshot of what to expect, cruising at a relatively sedate 90kt.

The ‘touring’ pages contain a useful amount of info with regards to formalities, radio procedures and flight plans etc.

For a little amusement on rainy days try the ‘bit of fun’.

Email: [email protected] Tel: 07598 880 178http://www.lightaircrafttraining.co.ukThroughout the season, in conjunction with this

monthly series of Flying Adventures, we arrange fly-outs to destinations in both the UK and abroad. The idea is to get you all to take part in these adventures that are literally at your fingertips.

Picture a weekend away – a nice town, good food, a glass or two and a bunch of like-minded people. If you would like to join us, you will be most welcome. It makes no difference whether you are a seasoned tourer or have never crossed the Channel before, there is enough support and experience around to help allay those fears.

Martin is giving a Touring presentation for the Gloster Strut in Cheltenham on 14 April at 6.30pm. Contact Mike Waldron on 07787 12394 for further details. Please check the event is going ahead nearer the time due to the current public health situation.

Cancelled


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