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648

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OUR READERS Many thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anec-dotes: Emily Brackstone, Ed Carlisle, David Carr, Paymon Daneshpay, Carlotta Fabian, Mick Groucott, Anne Gunn, Yael & Gil Hartman, Fre-drik Janson, Colin Kenning, Rikke Palm, Emilia Pawłowska, Kelly Pickerill, Jim Pincini, Nina Plumbe, Derek Rosen, David Ryder, Cornelius Schröder, Anfrew Seitz, Maddy Smith, Elgin Tay, Rachel Wheeler

AUTHOR THANKS

Anthony HamHeartfelt thanks to Matt Phillips, Mary Fitzpat-rick and Peter Ndirangu, three wise compan-ions of the Africa road of long-standing. Thanks also to Stuart Butler, Kate Thomas, Luke Hunter, Philipp Henschel, Thomas Temple, George Muriuki, Leela Hazzah, Stephanie Dol-renry, Kamunu Saitoti, Eric ole Kesoi, Richard Bonham, Rosie Kempson, Alex Walters, Nadia Walford, Lucy Cameron (Lewa Safari Camp), Wanjiku Kinuthia (Lewa Wildlife Conservancy), Annick Mitchell (Ol Pejeta), Daryll Pleasants (Ol Pejeta), Luca Belpietro (Campi y Kanzi), Jens Kozany (Segera Retreat), Tamsin Corcoran (Mbulia Conservancy), Katito Sayialel (Am-

boseli), Dr Cynthia Moss (Amboseli), Sandy Evans, (Manyara Ranch Conservancy), Ingela Jansson (Ngorongoro Lion Project), Daniel Rosengren and Craig Packer (Serengeti Lion project). To Marina, Carlota and Valentina – next time with you.

Stuart ButlerFirst and foremost I must thank my wife, Heather, and children Jake and Grace for once again putting up with my absence for too long while I worked on this book. It is ever appreciat-ed. In Rwanda and Burundi I would like to thank Sarah Hall at Akagera National Park and Daniel Niyonsaba at Nyungwe Forest National Park. At the RDB office in Kigali huge thanks to Isaac Niyoyita and Norbert. At Volcanoes National Park big thanks to Prosper Uwingeli and the fine folk of the Iby’lwacu Cultural Village for the good times. Finally thank you to Jean-Paul Bira-sa and, for great driving and company, Damas.

Mary FitzpatrickMy gratitude goes in particular to Matt Phil-lips and Anthony Ham for their insights, wise perspectives, patience and assistance with this project, and with many others. Thank you also to the inimitable J4 in Dar es Salaam, to the outstanding Mtemere entry gate rangers at Selous Game Reserve and – most of all – to Rick, Christopher, Dominic and Gabriel for the companionship, love and humour on this and all our journeys.

Behind the Scenes

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

BEHIN

D THE SCEN

ES649

Trent HoldenThanks first up to Matt Phillips for giving me the amazing opportunity to work again on Uganda – seriously a dream gig. Anne-Marie Weeden, for taking the time and effort to help out with incredibly useful tips, contacts and hilarious anecdotes. The guys from UWA for their assistance, info and efforts in main-taining the parks, as well as John Mugisha in Mgahinga for letting me interview him. Plus Benson, Hassan and Noor for getting me around in one piece. Lance Goettsch for his help in Masaka, and to all those I met on the road and shared a beer with along the journey. But as always my biggest thanks goes to my beautiful girlfriend Kate, and my family and friends whom all I miss back home in Melbourne.

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633¬44.

Cover photograph: Bull elephant, Ngorongoro Crater, Tanzania; Nigel Pavitt/AWL

THIS BOOK This 10th edition of Lonely Planet’s East Africa guidebook was researched and written by Anthony Ham, Stuart Butler, Mary Fitzpatrick and Trent Holden. The previous edition was written by Mary Fitz-patrick, Anthony Ham, Trent Holden and Dean Starnes. This guidebook was produced by the following:

Destination Editor Matt PhillipsProduct Editors Briohny Hooper, Martine PowerSenior Cartographer Corey HutchisonBook Designer Wibowo RusliAssisting Editors Melanie Dankel, Kate Evans, Samantha Forge, Andi Jones, Jodie Martire, Kate Mathews, Lauren O’Connell, Kristin Odijk,

Gabrielle Stefanos, Simon WilliamsonAssisting Cartographers Julie Dodkins, David Kemp, James LevershaCover Researcher Naomi ParkerThanks to Sasha Baskett, Elin Berglund, Kate Chapman, Ryan Evans, Larissa Frost, Clara Monitto, Katie O’Connell, Samantha Tyson, Diana Saeng-kham, Dianne Schallmeiner, Ellie Simpson, Luna Soo, Amanda Williamson

650 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Index

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

AAberdare National Park

275-8, 276abseiling 410-11accommodation 22, 620-1,

see also individual locations

activities 23-4, 621-2, see also individual activities

Adamson, George 240, 296Adamson, Joy 240, 242, 343African buffaloes, see

buffaloesAfrican elephants, see

elephantsAfrican fish eagle 595, 594-5African Queen, The 403,

461, 472African wild dogs 576, 14air travel 632

Burundi 546-7Kenya 369, 370-1Rwanda 533-4Tanzania 207-8, 212Uganda 482, 484

Akagera National Park 523-5Akamba people 563altitude sickness 640Amabeere Cave 422Amani Nature Reserve 104-5Amboseli National Park

298-302, 300, 21Amin, Idi 378, 379, 407, 417,

466, 467, 468amoebic dysentery 640Angolan colobus monkeys

518Antigay Bill 479animals 573-6, see also

individual speciesaquariums 79-80Arabuko Sokoke Forest

Reserve 328

archaeological sites, see also ruins

Oldupai Gorge 134-5Kondoa Rock-Art Sites

152-3architecture 357, 608area codes 19, 626art galleries

Kenya 279, 312, 336Rwanda 490-1Uganda 392

arts 608-11, see also individual arts

Kenya 356-7Rwanda 530Tanzania 201, 202Uganda 472-3

Arusha 109-19, 110-11Arusha Declaration 200Arusha National Park

119-24, 120ATMs 624

Burundi 546Kenya 365Rwanda 532Tanzania 206Uganda 479

augur buzzards 595

BBabati 153baboons 582Bagamoyo 96-8Baganda people 563-4balloon safaris 38, 136,

253, 363banded mongooses 593,

592-3banditry 366, 618Bantu people 565bao 561Baragoi 348bargaining 480, 624basketry 473bateleurs 595, 595bathrooms 626-7

Bawi Island 79beaches 22

Bofa Beach 326Dar es Salaam area 62-3Diani Beach 320-3, 322Entebbe 395-8, 396Fumba 89Gisenyi 508-11, 508Jambiani 87-8Jimbizi Beach 193Kendwa 82Kilifi Creek Beach 326Kitangani Beach 326Kiwengwa 83-4Kizimkazi Dimbani

88-9, 21Kunduchi Beach 62-3Lake Tanganyika 17, 168,

538, 17Malindi 329-32, 330Matemwe 82-3Mbuyuni Beach 92Mikadi Beach 63Nungwi 79-81Pemba 90-6, 90Pongwe 84Saga Beach 538Tiwi Beach 320, 322Verani Beach 96Vumawimbi Beach 96Watamu 327Zanzibar 80

beer 613benga music 610bicycle travel, see cyclingbig cats 12, 20, 578-9, 12,

578-9Big Five 282, 358, 456-7,

474, 573Bigodi Wetland Sanctuary

424bilharzia 637birds 595, 597, 594-5, 596-7birdwatching 30

Amboseli National Park 298

Arabuko Sokoke Forest Reserve 328

Bigodi Wetland Sanctuary 424

books 473Budongo Forest Reserve

464, 465Busingiro 465Bwindi Impenetrable

National Park 437Kakamega Forest Reserve

265Kenya 358Kihingami Wetlands

Sanctuary 422Lake Bunyonyi 443Lake Mburo National

Park 452Mabamba Swamp

Wetlands 399Mgahinga Gorilla National

Park 449Mt Elgon National Park

(Kenya) 270Mt Elgon National Park

(Uganda) 408Murchison Falls National

Park 460, 461Ol Pejeta Conservancy

282Rubondo Island National

Park 160Rwanda 519, 524-5Saiwa Swamp National

Park 270Selous Game Reserve 190Semuliki National Park

425Tanzania 204Tsavo West National

Park 303Uganda 474

black market 625black rhinos 20, 573-4,

589, 588Kenya 221, 222, 251, 273,

275, 279, 280, 282, 285, 296, 302, 358

Tanzania 131, 190

651IN

DEX B

- Dblack-and-white colobus

monkeys 585, 584Kenya 270, 320-1Uganda 421, 465

Blixen, Karen 223, 283blue monkeys 505, 585, 585boat safaris 16, 38boat travel 633, see also

dhow travel, ferry travelKenya 370, 371Rwanda 522, 524Tanzania 211-12, 212-13Uganda 483, 484

boda-bodas 373, 394-5, 454, 485

books 550, see also literature

field guides 35, 473Borana Conservancy 285-6border crossings

Burundi 547Kenya 369Rwanda 534Tanzania 208-12Uganda 482-3

Born Free 240, 296, 342budget 18, 19Budongo Forest Reserve

464-5Buffalo Springs National

Reserve 342-5, 344buffaloes 586, 586-7

Kenya 221, 243, 270, 275, 279, 283, 286, 319, 346, 358

Tanzania 126, 131, 135, 146, 170, 173, 179, 190, 202

Uganda 408, 412, 423, 426, 433, 448

Bujumbura 537-44, 540-1accommodation 539-41activities 538-9drinking 542emergency services

542-3food 541-2internet access 543medical services 543money 543nightlife 542postal services 543shopping 542sights 538-9tourist information 543tours 539travel to/from 543travel within 543-4

Bukoba 161-2, 161bullfighting 267

Burundi 48, 536-47, 537accommodation 546border crossings 547climate 536consulates 546culture 545economy 545embassies 546environment 546highlights 537history 544-5money 538, 546national parks &

reserves 543, 606public holidays 546safety 541, 546, 619telephone services

538, 546tourist offices 543travel seasons 536travel to/from 546-7travel within 547visas 546

Burundian civil war 545bus travel 633, 634-5

Burundi 547Kenya 370, 371Rwanda 534, 535Tanzania 208-11, 213Uganda 482-3, 484

business hours 19, 625Burundi 546Kenya 365Uganda 480

Busingiro 465Butare 511-14, 512Bwejuu 85-6Bwindi Impenetrable

National Park 43-4, 437-42

Ccamel safaris 38camels 346, 348, 349camping 620canoe safaris 38car travel 633-4

Burundi 547driving licences 634hire 634insurance 634Kenya 338, 370, 371-3road accidents 619road rules 634Rwanda 535Tanzania 208-11, 213-14Uganda 393, 482-3, 484-5

caracals 581, 581

cats 580-1caves

Amabeere Cave 422Elkony Caves 272Mau Mau Caves 294Musanze Cave 497Slave Caves 324-5

cell phones 18, 626Central Island National

Park 352Chake Chake 92-4, 93Changuu Island 78-9cheetahs 578, 33, 579

Kenya 221, 251, 258, 307Tanzania 124, 135, 137,

179, 202Uganda 412, 474

children, travel with 45-6chimpanzee tracking

Rwanda 518, 519Uganda 423, 433, 461,

465, 474chimpanzees 13, 37, 582,

13, 583Kenya 282Rwanda 516, 518Tanzania 168-9Uganda 398-9, 423,

426, 433Chogoria 297cholera 637Christianity 561Chumbe Island 79Chumbe Island Coral

Park 79Chutes de la Karera 544cinema 608-9climate 18, 23-4, see also

individual countriesclimbing, see also hiking

Kenya 243, 363Uganda 410-11

coffee 613coffee tours 143, 411colobus monkey tracking

518colonialism 554-5community projects 481,

see also volunteeringCongo Nile Trail 509conservancies 360-1, 606-7

Borana Conservancy 285-6

Laikipia conservancies 281

Lewa Wildlife Conservancy 283-4, 285

Mara North Conservancy 257-8

Masai Mara conservancies 256

Naboisho Conservancy 258

Ol Pejeta Conservancy 282-3

Olare-Orok Conservancy 258

Olderikesi Conservancy 258

consulates, see individual countries

coral reefs 79costs 18, 19Crater Highlands 14, 134Crater Lakes 420-2Crater Lakes Game

Sanctuary 241credit cards 625


crime 366, 618, see also safety

cuisine, see foodcultural tourism

Kenya 253Rwanda 500, 506Tanzania 56, 114, 149, 172Uganda 451

culture 558-62currency 18, see also

exchange ratescustoms 562customs regulations

Kenya 363Tanzania 204

Cyangugu 521cycling 632-3

Kenya 244, 283, 363Tanzania 204Uganda 404, 411

cycling safaris 37-8

Ddalla-dallas 214dance 609-10

Rwanda 530Uganda 473

dangers, see safetyDar es Salaam 51-62,

54, 58accommodation 55-7activities 55drinking 60entertainment 60food 57-9

652

IND

EX D- H

Dar es Salaam continuedimmigration office 60internet access 60medical services 60money 60nightlife 60safety 60shopping 60sights 51tourist offices 61tours 56travel agencies 61travel to/from 61-2travel within 62

deforestation 360, 576Democratic Republic of the

Congo (DRC) 42 dengue fever 637desertification 360deserts 598dhow travel 632

Dar es Salaam area 63Lamu 333

Diani Beach 320-3, 322diarrhoea 639-40diphtheria 637disabilities, travellers with

368, 627discount cards 621diving & snorkelling 22,

621, 624Kenya 321, 325, 326, 363Tanzania 55, 63, 67, 71,

78, 79, 80, 82, 86, 91, 96, 168, 188, 189, 198

Dodoma 150-2, 151dolphin watching 88drinks 612-16driving, see car traveldriving licences 634dysentery 640

Eeagles 595, 594-5ecotourism 358El Molo people 349, 564Eldoret 267-9, 268electricity 622elephants 20, 573, 589,

13, 588Kenya 222, 251, 299, 307,

318, 342Tanzania 179, 190-1Uganda 460

Eliye Springs 352Elsamere 240embassies, see individual

countriesemergency services 644,

see also individual countries

endangered species 358-9Engaruka Ruins 126Entebbe 395-8, 396environment 571-6, 598-9

Burundi 546Kenya 357-61Rwanda 530-1Tanzania 202Uganda 473-6

environmental issues 550-1cattle grazing 575deforestation 360, 576Kenya 240, 255, 360-1poaching 303Rwanda 531tourism, effects of 576

equator 399, 434etiquette 562events, see festivals &

eventsexchange rates


exchanging money 625

Ffemale genital mutilation

560ferry travel 630Festival of the Dhow

Countries 24festivals & events 23-4,


field guides 35, 473filariasis 637films 550, 608-9Fischer’s Tower 244fishing 462flamingos 126, 128, 131, 240,

246, 248, 597, 596-7flying foxes (Pemba) 94food 612-16, see also

individual locationscustoms 613, 614language 614-15, 643-4

football 560forest reserves

Arabuko Sokoke Forest Reserve 328

Budongo Forest Reserve 464-5

Kakamega Forest Reserve 266

Mpanga Forest Reserve 399

Ngezi Vumawimbi Forest Reserve 95

Forodhani Gardens (Zanzibar Town) 74

Fort Jesus 310-12Fort Portal 416-20, 420Fossey, Dian 501, 502, 504,

505, 506French language 646Fumba 89

Ggay travellers 205, 364,

478, 479, 622gazelles 586, 587Gede Ruins 328genocide (Rwanda) 488-9,

514-15, 522, 527geography 571-3gerenuks 586, 587giardiasis 640giraffes 575, 589, 33, 589

Kenya 222, 241, 243, 251, 298, 303, 342

Tanzania 98, 121, 124, 126, 160, 170, 173, 202

Uganda 412, 456Gisenyi 508-11, 508Gitega 544golden jackals 593, 593golden monkeys 449, 505golden-rumped elephant

shrew 328Gombe National Park

167-8gorilla tracking 39-44

Democratic Republic of the Congo (DRC) 42

permits 44, 439, 449Rwanda 44, 502-5Uganda 43-4, 474

gorillas 11, 504, 574, 582, 11, 41, 582-3

Kwita Izina (Gorilla Naming Ceremony) 23, 503

Rwanda 516Uganda 437-9, 448-50

Gorillas in the Mist 504greater galago 585, 584-5Grevy’s zebras 575grey-crowned crane 597guesthouses 620-1Gulu 415-16

Hhabitats 598-9Hadzabe people 564-5handicrafts 473, 610-11Haya people 565health 636-41

insurance 636vaccinations 636water 641

heat exhaustion 640Hell’s Gate National Park

243-4, 243Hemingway, Ernest 462hepatitis 637hiking 21, 621-2, 623

Kenya 272, 286-91, 347, 351, 363

Rwanda 505-6, 509, 518-19

Tanzania 105, 106, 113, 122-3, 129, 134, 141, 145, 146-9, 204

Uganda 404, 408-9, 411, 425, 427-31, 438, 452

hiking safaris 37-8hippopotamuses 251, 590,

590-1historical sites 22, 553history 552-7, see also

individual countrieshitching 634

Kenya 373Tanzania 214Uganda 485

HIV/AIDS 471, 559, 637Hoima 459holidays 626

Kenya 366Rwanda 532Tanzania 206Uganda 480

Homa Bay 261-2honey badgers 593horseriding

Tanzania 83Uganda 403, 452

hostels 620-1hot air ballooning 38, 136,

253, 363hot springs

Kenya 352Rwanda 509Uganda 425

Hotel Rwanda 491hunting dogs 593Hutu people 565Huye (Butare) 511-14, 512hyenas 593, 592hyraxes 590, 590


653IN

DEX I-L

IIl Ngwesi 284-5independence 555-7insect bites 640-1insurance

car 634health 636travel 622

International Camel Derby 24, 346

International Criminal Tribunal for Rwanda 529

internet access 622-3, see also individual locations

internet resources 19, 619Iringa 176-9, 177Ishasha 436Isimba Dam 404Isiolo 340-2, 342Islam 561-2islands 21-2

Chole Island 188Mafia Island 187-90Manda Island 339Manda Toto Island 339Paté Island 339Ssese Islands 455-6Ukerewe Island 159-60Wasini Island 324-5Zanzibar Archipelago

78-9itineraries 25-9, 25, 26, 27,

28, 29Ivory Burning Monument 221

Jjackals 251Jambiani 87-8Jinja 401-7, 402Jozani-Chwaka Bay

National Park 84Jumba La Mtwana 312

KKabale 442-3, 443Kakamega Forest 265-7,

266Kakamega Forest National

Reserve 265Kakamega Forest Reserve

266Kalenjin people 566Kamembe 521Kampala 378-95, 380,

384-5accommodation 382-6activities 378-81drinking 389-90

emergency services 393entertainment 391festivals & events 381-2food 386-9internet access 393medical services 393money 393nightlife 389-90postal services 393safety 393shopping 391-3sights 378-81tourist offices 393-4tours 388travel to/from 394travel within 394-5

kanga 610-11Kaniyo Pabidi 464-5Karamojaland 414Karamojong people 414,

566-7Karatu 128-30Kasenyi 436Kasese 427Kasubi Tombs 378-9Katavi National Park 170-1Katunguru 435kaya 324Kaya Kinondo 324kayaking

Tanzania 63, 80, 96Uganda 402

Kendwa 82Kenya 47, 216-374, 218-19,

250, 299, 309, 340-1accommodation 361-2activities 362-3climate 216consulates 363culture 355customs regulations 363ecotourism 358embassies 363environment 357-61highlights 218-19history 352-5internet access 364internet resources 364language courses 364languages 217legal matters 364-5magazines 364money 217, 365national parks &

reserves 601, 604newspapers 364postal services 366public holidays 366

safari tours 229safety 366-7, 619telephone services

217, 367time 367tourist offices 367-8travel seasons 216travel to/from 368-70travel within 338TV 364visas 368volunteering 368wildlife 358-9

Kenya Wildlife Service 360-1

Kenyan Association of Tour Operators (KATO) 31

Kenyatta, Jomo 353Kericho 263-4, 264Kiambethu Tea Farm 227Kibale National Park 13,

423-4, 13Kibera 223Kibuye 521-3Kichwamba Escarpment

435-6Kidepo Valley National Park

412-15Kigali 487-97, 490-1

accommodation 493-4drinking 495emergency services 495food 494-5history 488-9internet access 495maps 495medical services 496money 496nightlife 495postal services 496shopping 495sights 489-92tourist offices 496tours 492travel to/from 496-7travel within 497

Kigoma 165-7, 166Kigomasha Peninsula 96Kihihi 436-7Kihingami Wetlands

Sanctuary 422kikoi 610-11Kikorongo 436Kikuyu people 567Kilifi 325-7Kilwa Kisiwani 194-5Kilwa Masoko 193-4, 194Kisii 262-3Kisii soapstone 263

Kisite Marine National Park 325

Kisoro 446-8, 447Kisumu 258-61, 259Kitale 269-70, 269kiteboarding 80, 86Kitgum 415Kiwengwa 83-4Kiweni 94Kizimkazi 88-9Kizimkazi Dimbani 88-9, 21kob 586Kondoa Rock-Art Sites

152-3Kunduchi Wet ‘n’ Wild 62Kwita Izina (Gorilla Naming

Ceremony) 23, 503Kyambura (Chambura)

Gorge 433

LLaikipia conservancies 281Laikipia Plateau 14, 273-97,

273Lake Baringo National

Reserve 248, 249Lake Bogoria National

Reserve 248, 249Lake Tanganyika 17, 168,

538, 17Lake Victoria 153-62,

260, 154lakes 572-3

Crater Lakes 420-2Lake Baringo 248, 249Lake Bogoria 248, 249Lake Bunyonyi 443-6Lake Eyasi 130Lake Kasenda 422Lake Kifuruka 421-2Lake Kivu 510Lake Lyantonde 422Lake Manyara National

Park 126-8Lake Mburo National

Park 452-4Lake Mutanda 450-1Lake Naivasha 240-3,

241Lake Nakuru National

Park 246-9, 247Lake Natron 128Lake Nkuruba 420-1Lake Nyabikere 421Lake Nyasa 185-6, 572Lake Nyinabulitwa 421Lake Nyinambuga 421Lake Oloiden 242Lake Turkana 15, 346, 15

654

IND

EX L-N

Lamu 332-9, 334landscapes 598-9language 642-7

courses 478food glossary 614-15French 646glossary 647Rwanda 531Swahili 642-6

Leakey, Dr Richard 350legal matters 623

Kenya 364-5Tanzania 205Uganda 479

Lekurruki Community Ranch 286

leopards 578, 578Kenya 257, 307

Les Tambourinaires du Burundi 539

lesbian travellers 205, 364, 478, 479, 622

lesser flamingos 597, 596-7, see also flamingos

Lewa Wildlife Conservancy 283-4, 285

lilac-breasted rollers 597, 596

lion tracking 434lions 574, 578, 12, 578-9

Kenya 251, 282-3, 301, 307

Tanzania 190-1Uganda 436

literature 609, see also books

Kenya 356-7Uganda 472-3

Livingstone, Dr David 538

Livingstone Memorial Museum 165

Livingstone’s Tembe 163-4lodges 621Lodwar 351-2Loita Hills 257long-horned ankole 453Longonot National Park

240Loroghi Hills Circuit

347Loyangalani 349-50Luo people 567-8Lushoto 105-7, 105

MMaasai people 253, 568Mabamba Swamp Wetlands

399Mafia 187-90, 189Mafia Island Marine Park

190Mahale Mountains National

Park 168-70Mahatma Gandhi 401Maji Maji rebellion 200Maji Moto Group Ranch

257Makambako 181Makanaga Wetlands 399Makonde people 568-9Makonde woodcarving 610Makunduchi 88malaria 638Malindi 329-32, 330Malindi Marine National

Park 329mammals 586-7, 588-9,

590-1maps 623

Kenya 365Rwanda 532Tanzania 205-6Uganda 478

Mara North Conservancy 257-8

Marafa 329Marafa Depression 329Maralal 346-8, 347Maralal International

Camel Derby 348Marangu 144-5Marich 351marine national parks

Chumbe Island Coral Park 79

Kisite Marine National Park 325

Mafia Island Marine Park 190

Malindi Marine National Park 329

Tanzania 203Watamu Marine National

Park 327Marsabit 345Marsabit National Park

346, 346Masai Mara conservancies

256Masai Mara National

Reserve 12, 251-7, 252-3, 12, 33

Masaka 454-5Masasi 198-9

Masindi 458-9, 458Matema 185-6Matemwe 82-3Mau Mau caves 294Mau Mau rebellion 352-3Mbale 407-8Mbamba Bay 186Mbarara 451-2Mbeya 182-4, 183Mbeya area 184measures 204, 621medical services 636-7,


Menai Bay 89-90meningococcal meningitis

639Meru 294-6, 295Meru National Park 296-7,

296Mgahinga Gorilla National

Park 44, 448-50Michamvi Peninsula 84-5Mida Creek 328Mikindani 198Mikumi 176Mikumi National Park

173-5, 176minibus travel 634-5Misali 92Mkame Ndume (Pujini)

Ruins 94Mkoani 94-5Mnarani Aquarium 79-80Mnemba Island 79mobile phones 18, 626Mombasa 308-19, 310,

314-15accommodation 313, 316activities 313drinking 317emergency services 318food 316-17medical services 318nightlife 317safaris 311safety 313shopping 317-18sights 310-13tourist offices 318tours 311travel to/from 318-19travel within 319

Mombo 107money 18, 19, 624-5,

see also individual countries

moneychanging 625Morogoro 172-3, 173

Moshi 140-4, 142mosquito bites 640-1motorcycle travel 633-4

Burundi 547hire 634insurance 634Kenya 370, 371-3road accidents 619road rules 634Rwanda 535Tanzania 213-14Uganda 484-5

mountain gorillas, see gorillas

Mpanda 170Mpanga Forest Reserve 399Mt Elgon National Park

(Kenya) 270-2, 271Mt Elgon National Park

(Uganda) 408-10Mt Kenya National Park

286-93, 287, 290, 292, 599

Mt Kilimanjaro National Park 12, 140, 145-9, 146, 12

Mt Longonot 240Mt Meru 122-3Mtae 107Mto wa Mbu 125-6Mtwara 195-7, 196Mugisha, John 450Muheza 104Murambi Genocide

Memorial 514-15Murchison Falls National

Park 459-64, 460Musanze (Ruhengeri)

497-501, 498-9museums

Lamu Museum 332Musée National de

Gitega 544National Museum of

Rwanda 513Oldupai Museum 135

music 609-10Kenya 356Tanzania 202Uganda 473

Musoma 154-5Mwaluganje Elephant

Sanctuary 318Mwangi, Meja 357Mwanza 155-9, 156-7Mweya Peninsula 434-5

NNabajjuzi Wetlands 454Naboisho Conservancy 258


655IN

DEX N

-P Nairobi 217-38, 220-1,

224-5, 230-1, 234accommodation 226-30drinking 233-5emergency services 236entertainment 235-6festivals & events 226food 230-3internet access 236Kibera 223medical services 237money 237postal services 237safety 235shopping 236sights 217-23travel to/from 237-8travel within 238

Nairobi National Park 221-2, 230-1

Nakuru 244-6, 245Nanyuki 279-82, 280Naro Moru 294Narok 249-51National Museum of

Rwanda 513national parks & reserves

601-7, 602-3, see also conservancies, marine national parks, wildlife reserves & sanctuaries

Aberdare National Park 275-8, 276

Akagera National Park 523-5

Amboseli National Park 298-302, 300, 21

Arusha National Park 119-24, 120

Bwindi Impenetrable National Park 43-4, 437-42

Buffalo Springs National Reserve 342-5, 344

Burundi 606Central Island National

Park 352Gombe National Park

167-8Hell’s Gate National Park

243-4, 243Jozani-Chwaka Bay

National Park 84Kakamega Forest

National Reserve 265Katavi National Park 170-1Kenya 359-60, 601, 606Kibale National Park 13,

423-4, 13Kidepo Valley National

Park 412-15

Lake Manyara National Park 126-8

Lake Mburo National Park 452-4

Lake Nakuru National Park 246-9, 247

Longonot National Park 240

Mahale Mountains National Park 168-70

Marsabit National Park 346, 346

Masai Mara National Reserve 12, 251-7, 252-3, 12, 33

Meru National Park 296-7, 296

Mgahinga Gorilla National Park 44, 448-50

Mikumi National Park 173-5, 176

Mt Elgon National Park (Kenya) 270-2, 271

Mt Elgon National Park (Uganda) 408-10

Mt Kenya National Park 286-93, 287, 290, 292, 599

Mt Kilimanjaro National Park 12, 140, 145-9, 146, 12

Murchison Falls National Park 459-64, 460

Nairobi National Park 221-2, 230-1

Ndere Island National Park 259

Nyungwe Forest National Park 16, 516-21, 16

Parc National de la Kibira 543

Parc National de la Rusizi 543

Parc National de la Ruvubu 543

Parc National des Virungas (DRC) 42

Queen Elizabeth National Park 431-7, 432

Ruaha National Park 179-81

Rubondo Island National Park 160-1

Ruma National Park 262Rwanda 606Rwenzori Mountains

National Park 14, 427-31, 430, 15

Saadani National Park 98-9

Saiwa Swamp National Park 270

Samburu National Reserve 342-5, 344

Semuliki National Park 424-6

Serengeti National Park 13, 135-40, 136-7, 13, 33, 598-9

Shaba National Reserve 342-5

Shimba Hills National Reserve 319-20

Sibiloi National Park 350South Island National

Park 349-50Tanzania 202-3, 601Tarangire National Park

124-5Tsavo East National Park

307-8, 304-5Tsavo West National Park

302-6, 304-5Uganda 474-5, 606Volcanoes National Park

44, 501-7, 501Ndere Island National

Park 259newspapers 621Ngamba Island

Chimpanzee Sanctuary 398-9

Ng’ambo, see Zanzibar Town

Ngezi Vumawimbi Forest Reserve 95

Ngoma 609-10Ngorongoro Conservation

Area 14, 131-4, 203, 132-3, 14

Ngorongoro Crater 131-4Nile River 16, 401, 16Njombe 181-2Nungwi 79-81Nyahururu 278-9Nyamwezi people 570Nyanza 515-16Nyeri 274-5, 274Nyero rock paintings 412Nyungwe Forest National

Park 16, 516-21, 16

OOl Doinyo Lengai 129Ol Pejeta Conservancy

282-3Olare-Orok Conservancy

258Olderikesi Conservancy

258Oldupai Gorge 134-5olive baboons 582opening hours 19, 625

Burundi 546Kenya 365Uganda 480

Operation Entebbe 468ostriches 597, 596Out of Africa 221, 223,

248, 550

Ppainting 611Paje 86-7Pangani 100-1papasi 65Parc National de la Kibira

543Parc National de la Rusizi

543Parc National de la Ruvubu

543Parc National des Virungas

(DRC) 42Pare people 569passports 628Pemba 90-6, 90Pemba flying foxes 94photography 625-6plains zebras 589, 588-9planning, see also

individual countriesbudgeting 18, 19calendar of events 23-4children, travel with 45-6East Africa basics 18-19East Africa country

overviews 47-8gorilla tracking 39-44internet resources

19, 619itineraries 25-9, 25, 26,

27, 28, 29safaris 30-8travel seasons 18, 23-4

poaching 303politics 550-1Pongwe 84population 551postal services


primates 20, 39-44, 475, 574, 582-3, 584-5, 582-3, 584-5

public holidays 626Burundi 546Kenya 366Rwanda 532Tanzania 206Uganda 480

656

IND

EX Q-T

QQueen Elizabeth II 278Queen Elizabeth National

Park 431-7, 432

Rrabies 639radio 621


rafting, see white-water rafting

Ras Mkumbuu 94religion 551, 561-2

Kenya 356Rwanda 530Tanzania 201Uganda 472

rhinoceros 20, 221, 223, 296, 456-8, 573-4, 589, 21, 600, see also black rhinos

Rift Valley 239-49, 239Rift Valley fever 639road accidents 619road rules 634rock art sites 152, 412rock climbing

Kenya 244, 363Uganda 410-11

rock hyraxes 590, 590Rothschild giraffes 575, see

also giraffesRuaha National Park 179-81Rubondo Island National

Park 160-1Ruhengeri 497-501, 498-9ruins 22, see also

archaeological sitesEngaruka 126Gede Ruins 328Jumba La Mtwana 312Kilwa Kisiwani 194-5Laetoli 135Mkame Ndume

(Pujini) 94Mnarani 326Ras Mkumbuu 94Swahili 553

Ruma National Park 262Rwanda 48, 486-535, 487

accommodation 531arts 530climate 486

culture 529-30drink 531economy 530food 531highlights 487history 526-9internet access 531-2languages 488, 531money 488, 532national parks &

reserves 605, 606newspapers 532population 488, 530public holidays 532safety 532-3, 619telephone services

488, 533time 533tourist offices 533tours 535travel seasons 486travel to/from 533-4travel within 534-5TV 532visas 533

Rwenzori Mountains National Park 14, 427-31, 430, 15

SSaadani National Park 98-9sacred forests 324safaris 30-8

balloon safaris 38, 136, 253, 363

boat safaris 38camel safaris 38, 347,

349canoe safaris 38cycling safaris 37-8field guides 35hiking safaris 37-8independent safaris 38Kenya 229, 311Tanzania 117Uganda 475-6vehicle safaris 37walking safaris 37-8

safety 618-19, 633, 634Burundi 541, 546Kenya 235, 313, 336,

339, 366-7, 373Rwanda 532-3Tanzania 60, 77, 147,

213, 214Uganda 393, 395, 480,

485Saiwa Swamp National

Park 270

Samburu National Reserve 342-5, 344

scams 366-7, 619secretary birds 595, 594Segera Ranch 283Selous Game Reserve 16,

190-3, 191, 16Semuliki National Park

424-6Serengeti National Park 13,

135-40, 136-7, 13, 33, 598-9

servals 581, 580Shaba National Reserve

342-5sharks 321Sheldrick, David 222-3Shimba Hills National

Reserve 319-20Shimoni 324-5shoebills 597, 597shopping, see handicrafts,

individual locationsSibiloi National Park 350Sipi Falls 410-12sitatunga antelopes 270Slave Caves 324-5slave trade 556small cats 580-1snake bites 641snakes 327, 328snorkelling, see diving &

snorkellingsoapstone 263soccer 560Solio Game Reserve 279Songea 186-7Soni 107Source of the Nile River

401, 544South Island National Park

349-50Southern Highlands

(Tanzania) 172-87, 174-5

sports 560-1spotted hyenas 593, 592Ssese Islands 455-6Stanley, Henry Morton 538Stone Town, see Zanzibar

TownSukuma Museum 159Sukuma people 570Sumbawanga 171-2Swahili 555, 642-6

architecture 357, 608language 563, 642-6people 308, 564ruins 553time 627

TTabora 163-5, 164Tanga 101-3, 102-3Tanzania 47, 50-215, 52-3,

97, 108, 150, 163, 188accommodation 203-4activities 204animals 202arts 201, 202border crossings 208-12climate 50consulates 204-5embassies 204-5etiquette 201highlights 52-3history 199-200internet access 205language 51language courses 205money 51, 206national parks &

reserves 601, 604newspapers 204plants 202public holidays 206safety 60, 77, 619telephone services 206-7time 207tourist offices 207travel seasons 50travel to/from 207-12travel within 212-15visas 51, 206volunteering 207

Tanzanian Association of Tour Operators (TATO) 31

Tarangire National Park 124-5

taxis 635Burundi 547Kenya 373Rwanda 535Tanzania 214Uganda 484, 485

tea 613tea plantations

Kericho 263-4, 264Kiambethu Tea Farm 227

telephone services 18, 626

terrorism 367, 618-19theft 618Thiong’o, Ngũgĩ wa 356-7Thomson’s Falls 278Thomson’s gazelles 586,

587time 18, 626, see also

individual countries


657IN

DEX T-Z

tipping 34, 625Kenya 365Rwanda 532Tanzania 206Uganda 480

Tiwi Beach 320, 322toilets 626-7Toro-Semliki Wildlife

Reserve 426tourism, effects of 576tourist information

Burundi 542Kenya 367-8Rwanda 533Tanzania 207Uganda 393-4

tours 631, see also safaris, individual locations

train travel 635Kenya 317, 374Mombasa-Nairobi

railway 317Tanzania 214-15

travel to/from East Africa 630-1

travel within East Africa 632-5

travellers cheques 625trekking, see hikingtribal groups 563-70trypanosomiasis 639Tsavo East National Park

307-8, 304-5Tsavo West National Park

302-6, 304-5Tsetse flies 640tuberculosis 639Tukuyu 185Tumbe 95Tunduru 187Turkana people 570turtles 347Tutsi people 565Twa (Batwa) people 445typhoid 639

Uugali 612Uganda 48, 375-485,

376-7, 400, 418-19, 457

accommodation 476-7activities 477climate 375consulates 477-8culture 471-2drink 476

embassies 477-8environment 473-6food 476highlights 376-7history 466-71internet access 478language 378language courses 478legal matters 479magazines 477money 378, 479-80national parks &

reserves 474-5, 605, 606

newspapers 477public holidays 480safety 480, 619telephone services 480tourist offices 207travel seasons 375travel to/from 482-3travel within 484-5TV 477visas 378, 480-1volunteering 481-2

Uganda kob 586Uganda Museum 378Uganda Wildlife Authority

474Ujiji 165Ukerewe Island 159-60Unesco World Heritage

Sites 553Fort Jesus 310-12Kasubi Tombs 378-9Kilwa Kisiwani 194-5Lamu 332-9, 334Ngorongoro Crater 131-4Sibiloi National Park 350South Island National

Park 349-50Usambara Mountains 104-7

Vvacations 626vaccinations 636vegetarian food 612-13Verani Beach 96vervet monkeys 582, 582visas 18, 627-8

Burundi 546Kenya 217, 368Rwanda 488, 533Tanzania 51, 206Uganda 378, 480-1

visual arts 611

Voi 308volcanoes

Mt Kenya 286Ol Doinyo Lengai 129Rwanda 505-6Uganda 448-9

Volcanoes National Park 44, 501-7, 501

volunteering 628Vumawimbi Beach 96

WWambaa 94warthogs 590, 591Wasini Island 324-5Watamu 327Watamu Marine National

Park 327Watamu Turtle Watch

327water safety 641waterfalls 544

Chutes de la Karera 544Murchison Falls 461Ngungwe Forest 519Sipi Falls 410-12Thomson’s Falls 278

weather 18, 23-4, see also individual countries

websites 19, 619weights 204, 621Wete 95wetlands

Bigodi Wetland Sanctuary 424

Kihingami Wetlands Sanctuary 422

Mabamba Swamp Wetlands 399

Makanaga Wetlands 399Nabajjuzi Wetlands 454Saiwa Swamp National

Park 270whale sharks 321white-backed vultures

595, 594white-water rafting

Kenya 363Uganda 16, 401-2, 477, 16

wild dogs 576, 14wildcats 581, 580-1wildebeest 135, 251, 586,

577, 586wildebeest migration 11,

23, 35-6, 10-11wildlife 573-6, 577-600

Kenya 358-9

Tanzania 202Uganda 474

wildlife drivesKenya 253Rwanda 524Uganda 432-3, 461-2

Wildlife Research Tours 434wildlife reserves &

sanctuariesAmani Nature Reserve

104-5Crater Lakes Game

Sanctuary 241Maralal National

Sanctuary 346-7Selous Game Reserve 16,

190-3, 191, 16Solio Game Reserve 279Toro-Semliki Wildlife

Reserve 426windsurfing 363wine 613women travellers 628-9woodcarving 610, 611woodland 598work 629

Yyellow fever 639

ZZanzibar 63-90, 66Zanzibar Archipelago 64Zanzibar Town 13, 64-78,

68, 13accommodation 72-4activities 67, 70drinking 75-6entertainment 76festivals & events 72food 74-5internet access 77medical services 77money 77nightlife 75-6safety 77shopping 76sights 64-7tourist offices 77tours 70-2travel to/from 77travel within 77-8

zebras 575, 589, 588-9Zhiwa Rhino Sanctuary

456-8

658

NO

TES

659N

OTES

660

NO

TES

661N

OTES

662

Walking Tour detourWalking Tour

Path/Walking Trail

BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin

Sento Hot Baths/Onsen

ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight

DivingBodysurfing

Sleeping

Eating

Entertainment

Shopping

Drinking & NightlifeCafe

BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information

AirportBorder crossingBus

CyclingFerry

Underground station

MonorailParking

Metro station

Petrol stationSubway stationTaxiTrain station/RailwayTram

Other Transport

LighthouseHut/ShelterBeach

LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall

River, CreekIntermittent River

Swamp/Mangrove

Reef

Canal

Water

Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake

Glacier

Mudflat

Beach/Desert

Airport/Runway

Cemetery (Christian)

Cemetery (Other)

Park/Forest

Sportsground

Sight (Building)

International

DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall

Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

State/Province

Camping

Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour

SkiingSnorkellingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity

LaneTertiary

TollwayFreewayPrimary

StepsPlaza/Mall

Pedestrian overpass

Secondary

Unsealed roadRoad under construction

Tunnel

Cable car/Funicular

Sights

Activities,Courses & Tours

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Information Routes

Boundaries

Hydrography

Areas

Geographic

Population

Transport

Note: Not all symbols displayed aboveappear on the maps in this book


Map Legend


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