Behind the Scenes - Lonely Planetmedia.lonelyplanet.com/shop/pdfs/nova-scotia-new...Celtic Colours...

11
SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travelers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-traveled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to postal submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/privacy. 278 Behind the Scenes OUR READERS Many thanks to the travelers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and inter- esting anecdotes: Amy Goben, Carmen Stanley, Chad Stewart, David Drake, Gisela Broderick, Helen Tyson, Herman Goellnitz, Lynette Olfert, Meike Ferrari, Michael Duffey, Nigel Rayner, Rob McCleave, Sarah Hayter, Sebastian Cool, Semin Poonja, Sheree and Carl Lovell, Tarini Casinader and Terrie Phillips. AUTHOR THANKS Celeste Brash Thanks to Andrea Young at Destination Hali- fax and Isabel MacDougall with PEI Tourism, to the good folks of Digby Backpackers, Bear on the River and Kiwi Kaboodle, John Tattrie, everyone at Authentic Seacoast in Guysburough, Coastal Adventures Sea Kay- aking, Kate Prest and Doug in Pictou, Isaac in Mabou, Sandra in Creignish, Beartown Baskets, Juana in North Sydney and Brian and Al in Wolfville. I wish I could work with Karla Zimmerman on every book. Biggest thanks as always to my family. Caroline Sieg Thanks to everyone who shared their tips with me and for the friendly conversations at all the local watering holes, where (thank- fully) few things change. Karla Zimmerman Thanks to St John’s gurus Bryan Curtis, Sarah Mathieson and their compadres. Huge gratitude to Lisa Beran for woman’ing the wheel once again. Kudos to fellow scribes Celeste and Caroline for awesome work. Thanks most to Eric Markowitz, the world’s best partner for life. ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updat- ed World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344. Cover photograph: Peggy’s Cove Lighthouse, Nova Scotia, Beverley Lu/Alamy. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Transcript of Behind the Scenes - Lonely Planetmedia.lonelyplanet.com/shop/pdfs/nova-scotia-new...Celtic Colours...

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SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travelers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-traveled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to postal submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters.

Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions.

Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/privacy.

278

Behind the Scenes

OUR READERSMany thanks to the travelers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and inter-esting anecdotes: Amy Goben, Carmen Stanley, Chad Stewart, David Drake, Gisela Broderick, Helen Tyson, Herman Goellnitz, Lynette Olfert, Meike Ferrari, Michael Duffey, Nigel Rayner, Rob McCleave, Sarah Hayter, Sebastian Cool, Semin Poonja, Sheree and Carl Lovell, Tarini Casinader and Terrie Phillips.

AUTHOR THANKSCeleste BrashThanks to Andrea Young at Destination Hali-fax and Isabel MacDougall with PEI Tourism, to the good folks of Digby Backpackers, Bear on the River and Kiwi Kaboodle, John Tattrie, everyone at Authentic Seacoast in Guysburough, Coastal Adventures Sea Kay-aking, Kate Prest and Doug in Pictou, Isaac in Mabou, Sandra in Creignish, Beartown Baskets, Juana in North Sydney and Brian and Al in Wolfville. I wish I could work with Karla Zimmerman on every book. Biggest thanks as always to my family.

Caroline SiegThanks to everyone who shared their tips with me and for the friendly conversations at all the local watering holes, where (thank-fully) few things change.

Karla ZimmermanThanks to St John’s gurus Bryan Curtis, Sarah Mathieson and their compadres. Huge gratitude to Lisa Beran for woman’ing the wheel once again. Kudos to fellow scribes Celeste and Caroline for awesome work. Thanks most to Eric Markowitz, the world’s best partner for life.

ACKNOWLEDGMENTSClimate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updat-ed World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344.

Cover photograph: Peggy’s Cove Lighthouse, Nova Scotia, Beverley Lu/Alamy.

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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THIS BOOKThis 3rd edition of Lonely Planet’s Nova Scotia, New Brunswick & Prince Edward Island was commissioned in Lonely Planet’s Oakland office, and produced by the following:

Commissioning Editor Korina MillerCoordinating Editors Kate Mathews, Amanda WilliamsonSenior Cartographer Mark GriffithsBook Designer Katherine Marsh

Assisting Editor Kristin OdijkAssisting Book Designer Virginia MorenoCover & Internal Image Research Naomi ParkerThanks to Samantha Forge, Briohny Hooper, Indra Kilfoyle, Trent Paton, Tracy Whitmey

BEHIN

D THE SCEN

ES

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Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

IndexAAboriginal culture

art 237-8music 233

Aboriginal people, see Mi’kmaq, Maliseet

Acadian Peninsula 141Acadian people 89, 167

culture 20festivals 21-2, 68, 141food 67, 135, 164historic sites 72, 75-6, 137,

141, 146, 160-61history 41, 66, 68, 104,

167, 227, 228-30music 10, 69, 90, 234-5restaurants 69, 90, 138theater 68, 137tours 68

accommodations 254-6, see also individual locations

language 273-4activities 28-33, 256, see

also individual activities, individual locations

African Nova Scotians, see also Black Loyalists

culture 48, 235-6history 41, 47, 65

air travel 266-7, 268airlines 267airports 266-7Alma 132Amherst 82amusement parks

Avonlea Village 163Magnetic Hill 133

animals 248, see also individual species

Annapolis Royal 71-3Annapolis Valley 67-77Anne of Green Gables 14,

158, 163, 14, 36, see also

Montgomery, Lucy MaudAntigonish 86aquariums

Aquarium & Museum Center 141

Atlantic Salmon Interpretive Centre 117

Bonne Bay Marine Station 201

Fisheries Museum of the Atlantic 60

Fundy Discovery Aquarium 116

Arctic foxes 248area codes 17art 237-40

festivals 240museums 238

art galleries, see museums & galleries

ATMs 260Avalon Peninsula 184-8

Bbagpipes 234, 11bald eagles 249Barrington 66Basin Head Provincial

Park 156Bay of Fundy 9, 115, 8Bear River 71bears 248

Cape Chignecto Provincial Park 82

Kouchibouguac National Park 138

Mt Carleton Provincial Park 112

Terra Nova National Park 195

beer 243, see also breweriesBell, Alexander Graham 94Beothuk 226-7bicycle travel, see bicyclingbicycling 31, 268, 271, see

also mountain bikingAntigonish 86

Birchtown 65Bouctouche 137Cape Breton Highlands

National Park 90Confederation Trail 151Fundy National Park 131Gros Morne National

Park 203Halifax 49Kouchibouguac National

Park 138Lunenburg 60Mahone Bay 59Miramichi River ValleyMt Stewart 157Murray River 154North RusticoPetit Témis Interprovincial

Linear Park 114Prince Edward Island 151St Peter’s 157

birds 249, see also individual species

bird-watching 30-31Amherst Point Migratory

Bird Sanctuary 82Antigonish Landing 86Avalon Peninsula 184-5Digby Neck 69Grand Manan Island 122Kouchibouguac National

Park 138Mavilette Beach 67Saint John 126Tatamagouche 83Taylor Head Provincial

Park 100Witless Bay Ecological

Reserve 184Black Loyalists 65, 229, 235boat travel 269, see also

canoeing, ferry travel, kayaking

Bonavista 190-91books 224border crossings 267

Bouctouche 137-8Brackley Beach 159-60Bras d’Or Lake 94-5breweries

Alexander Keith’s Nova Scotia Brewery 45

Big Tide Brewing Company 128

Garrison Brewing Company 53

Pump House 135Quidi Vidi Brewery 175St John’s 175

Brimstone Head 198budget 17Burin Peninsula 191-2bus travel 267, 269business hours 17, 261

CCabot, John 171, 172, 190,

228Cabot Trail 88-94Campbellton 142camping 255Campobello Island 120-21canoeing 20, 28, 35, 251,

256 see also kayakingAvalon Wilderness

Reserve 185Chiputneticook Lakes 114Corner BrookKejimkujik National

Park 63Kouchibouguac National

Park 138Miramichi River Valley 140Mt Carleton Provincial

Park 112Saint John 127Tobique 112

Canso 99-100Cape Breton Highlands

National Park 12, 90-1, 13Cape Breton Island 87-98Cape Chignecto Provincial

Park 81-2

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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281IN

DEX C- H

Cape d’Or 81Cape Enrage 132Cape George 86-7Cape Jourimain 136-7Cape Shore 187-8Cape Spear 183-4Cape St Mary 67car hire 270car travel 267, 269-71, see

also scenic drivesCaraquet 141-2caribou 248caribou moss 250Cartier, Jacques 228Cavendish 163-8Ceilidh Trail 87-8ceilidhs 22, 234cell phones 16, 262Celtic Colours 23Change Islands 198-9Charlottetown 147-53, 148Chester 58children, travel with 34-6,

270amusement parks

133, 163Halifax 51St John’s 177

Chiputneticook Lakes 114climate 16, 21-3, see also

individual regionscod 249, 250-1coffee 244colonization 228-9common murres 249Conception Bay 186-7Confederation Trail 151consulates 257cookery course 164Corner Brook 208-11, 209covered bridges 110, 129-

30, 133-4credit cards 260Cremo, Lee 233culture 224-5currency 16customs 246customs regulations 256cycling, see bicycling

DDalvay by the Sea 159dangers, see safetyDartmouth 55-6Deer Island 119-20Deer Lake 200Digby 70-1Digby Neck 69-70

dinosaurs 80, 81, 248disabilities, travelers

with 263distilleries 18, 155, see also

whiskeyGlenora Inn & Distillery

18, 88Ironworks Distillery 60Myriad View Distillery 155Prince Edward Distillery

18, 155dog sledding 33drinks 243-6, see also

breweries, distilleries, wineries

beer 243customs regulations 256language 274-6vodka 18whiskey 18, 193, 243wine 18, 23, 76-7, 176,

243driver’s licenses 269driving, see car travel,

scenic drivesdrugs 259-60

EEast Point 157economy 224-5Economy 79Edmundston 114-15electricity 257Elliston 191embassies 257emergencies 17

language 276employment 225environment 247-52environmental hazards 259environmental issues 225,

250-2Eriksson, Leif 18, 171, 205,

206, 227events 21-3, see also

festivals, individual events

exchange rates 17

Ffarmers markets, see

marketsferry travel 267-9festivals 21-3

Acadian 21-2, 68, 141arts 50, 61, 107, 177,

203, 240beer 83blues 107carnivals 177

cultural 50, 59, 68, 149, 193, 198

film 50, 107folk 197, 198food 150, 244history 63Irish 23, 87, 139, 198jazz 107music 50, 61, 75, 100,

149, 156, 165, 177, 236sports 59, 177theater 68, 149, 203wine 23, 243

films 224fish 249fisheries 60Fisherman’s Cove 56fishing 31-2, 68

Corner Brook 208Labrador 220Miramichi River Valley

140Pinware River 216South Coast Outports

214Five Islands 79Florenceville 110-11Fogo Island 198-9food 241-6

Acadian 67, 135, 164festivals 150, 244language 274-5lobster suppers 12, 22,

244, 12Newfoundland dishes

180oysters 165recipes 242seafood 18, 241-2specialities 244

Fort Beauséjour National Historic Site 136

fossils 80, 82, 248foxes 248fracking 225, 252Fredericton 105-10, 106French 273-7French Shore 67-77, 207Fundy Isles 119-24Fundy National Park 130-1Fundy Trail Parkway 132

Ggalleries, see museums &

galleriesGander 196gannets 249gardens, see also national

& provincial parks,

reserves Annapolis Royal Historic

Gardens 72CA Pippy Park 176Halifax Public Gardens 45Kingsbrae Garden 117New Brunswick Botanical

Garden 114gay travelers 257-8geology 80, 173, 200, 247-8Georgetown 156Glace Bay 97golf 70, 92, 93, 99, 120, 176Grand Banks 249Grand Falls 114-15Grand Falls-Windsor 199Grand Manan Island 14,

122-4, 15Grand Pré 75-6Green Gables, see Anne

of Green Gables, Montgomery, Lucy Maud

Greenwich 157Gros Morne National Park

200-4Guysborough 99

HHalifax 10, 44-55, 46-7, 10

accommodations 50-1activities 49children, travel with 51cycling 49drinking 52-3entertainment 53-4food 51-2gay & lesbian travelers 53highlights 49hiking 49shopping 54tourist information 54tours 49travel to/from 55-7travel within 55

Hartland 110health 258-9heath 250hiking 19, 30, 251

Antigonish Landing 86Burin Peninsula 192Canso 99-100Cape Breton Highlands

National Park 90Cape Chignecto

Provincial Park 81-2Delap’s Cove Wilderness

Trail 72Economy 79

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INDEX H

- M

Elliston 191Five Islands 79Fundy National Park 131Grand Hermine Park 220Grand Manan Island 123Gros Morne National

Park 201-2Halifax 49International

Appalachian Trail 211Irving Nature Park 126Kaumajet Mountains 219Kejimkujik National

Park 63Kouchibouguac National

Park 138Mabou 88Meat Cove 92Mt Carleton Provincial

Park 112-13New River Provincial

Park 119Partridge Island 80Pollett’s Cove 91Sambro 56Shelburne 65Taylor Head Provincial

Park 100Terra Nova National

Park 195Trinity 189

historic sites 18history 226-32

Acadian people 41, 66, 68, 104, 167, 227, 228-30

Black Loyalists 65, 229, 235

Irish heritage 125Scottish heritage 94vikings 206

hitchhiking 271hockey 33, 224, see also

pond hockeyholidays 261-2Hopewell Rocks 132-3House of Green Gables see

Anne of Green Gables, Montgomery, Lucy Maud

Hynes, Ron 234

Iice skating 33, 50Iceberg Alley 13, 21, 197,

207, 13icebergs 176, 184, 196-7,

198, 206, 207, 13immigration 266immunizations 258insects 249-50insurance

car 270health 258travel 259

internet access 259internet resources 17

health 258Irish heritage

festivals 23, 87, 139, 198history 125legends 139music 87, 97, 152-3, 181,

233-4itineraries 24-7

JJoe, Rita 233Joggins 82

Kkayaking 20, 28,29, 251,

256 see also canoeingAlma 132Cape Chignecto

Provincial Park 82Cartwright 218Fredericton 107Fundy Isles 119Grand Manan Island 123Gros Morne National

Park 202-3Hopewell Rocks 133Kejimkujik National

Park 63Kouchibouguac National

Park 138Lunenburg 60Mahone Bay 59Malpeque 165Miramichi River Valley 140North Rustico 162Point Joli Migratory Bird

Sanctuary 64St Andrew’s by-the-

Sea 117St John’s 177St Martins 129St Mary’s Bay 68Tangier 101Terra Nova National

Park 195Trinity 189Victoria 158Witless Bay Ecological

Reserve 184-5

Kejimkujik National Park 251, 63-4

Kennebecasis River Valley 130

Kensington 165King’s Landing Historical

Settlement 110kitchen parties 23, 150,

234-5, see also ceilidhskite-surfing 32Kouchibouguac National

Park 138-9, 251

LLabrador 38, 215-21, 217

climate 169, 171fast facts 215food 180highlights 170history 171language 171planning 171travel seasons 169travel to/from 171-2wildlife 171

Labrador Straits 215-18land disputes 123languages 16, 273-7L’Anse aux Meadows 205-6legal matters 259-60Lennox Island 168lesbian travelers 257-8Lewis, Maud 45, 237Lighthouse Route 57-8lighthouses 18-19, 35

Cape Bonavista Lighthouse 190

Cape George Point Lighthouse 86

Cape Ray Lighthouse 213

Cape Spear 183Cape St Lawrence

Lighthouse 92East Point Lighthouse

157East Quoddy Head

Lighthouse 121Long Point Lighthouse

196-7Panmure Island 154-5Peggy’s Cove Lighthouse

9, 57, 9Point Amour Lighthouse

216Point Prim 154Point Riche Lighthouse

204Rose Blanche Lighthouse

213

Swallowtail Lighthouse 122

West Point 165Yarmouth Light 66

live music 20, see also music

Acadian 69, 90Halifax 53Irish 97, 152-3, 181St John’s 181venues 236

Liverpool 62-3lobster suppers 12, 22,

244, 12Louisbourg 97-8Lunenburg 60-2, 61lynx 248

MMachias Seal Island 123Mahone Bay 58-60Maitland 77-8Maliseet, see also

Aboriginal cultureart 238history 104, 226-7

Malpeque 165maps 260markets 243

Annapolis Royal 73Charlottetown 151Fogo Island 198Fredericton 108Grand Manan Island 124Halifax 54Kingston 130Moncton 135Saint John 127

Mary’s Point 132measures 264medical services 259Meteghan 67Mi’kmaq, see also

Aboriginal cultureart 238historic sites 140history 41, 226-7legends 131Lennox Island 168music 233

Miquelon 192-5Miramichi 139-40Miramichi River Valley

140-1mobile phones 16, 262Moncton 133-6, 134money 16, 17, 257, 260-1money pit 59Montague 155-6

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

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283IN

DEX M- N

Montgomery, Lucy Maud 158, 162-3, 164, see also Anne of Green Gables

moose 77, 112, 121, 129, 138, 171, 184, 185, 195, 248

motorcycle travel 267, 269-71

Mt Carleton Provincial Park 112-14

Mt Stewart 157-8mountain biking 31, 251,

see also bicyclingCape Breton Highlands

National Park 90Fundy National Park 131Wentworth 83

Murray River 154museums & galleries 238

Acadian Museum 167Admiral Digby Museum 70Africville Heritage Trust

Museum 47Alexander Graham Bell

National Historic Site 94

Atlantic Salmon Museum 140

Basin Head Fisheries Museum 156

Beaverbrook House 139Black Loyalist Heritage

Society Historical Site & Museum 65

Bras d’Or Lakes & Watershed Interpretive Centre 94

Burin Heritage Museums 192

Canadian Museum of Immigration at Pier 21 45

Canadian Potato Museum 168

Cape Breton Miners’ Museum 97

Centre de la Mi-Carême 89

Chocolate Museum 115Dartmouth Heritage

Museum 55-6Dory Shop Museum 65Durrell Museum 196Fisheries Museum of the

Atlantic 60Fisherman’s Life

Museum 101Fundy Geological

Museum 80Garden of the Gulf

Museum 155Grand Manan Historical

Museum 122

Great Hall of the Clans Museum 93

Green Park Shipbuilding Museum & Historic Yeo House 167

Grenfell Museum 207Hank Snow Home Town

Museum 63Highland Village Museum

94Historic Ferryland

Museum 185Historical Museum of

Tracadie 141Inverness Miners’

Museum 88Iron Ore Mine & Museum

183Island Museum 69Labrador Interpretation

Centre 220L’Arche Museum 193Les Trois Pignons 89Lighthouse Museum 158Loggers’ Life Provincial

Museum 199Lordly House Museum 58Mahone Bay Settlers’

Museum 58Maritime Command

MuseumMaritime Museum of the

Atlantic 45Mary March Provincial

Museum 199Muir-Cox Shipyard 65Museum of Industry 85Museum of Natural

History 51New Brunswick Museum

125North Atlantic Aviation

Museum 196Northern Lights Building

219Northumberland

Fisheries Museum 84Old Court House

Museum 99Old King’s County

Museum 73Ottawa House Museum

80Perkins House Museum

63Potato World Museum 110Prescott House Museum

74Prime Berth/Twillingate

Fishing Museum 196Provincial Seamen’s

Museum 192

Queen’s County Museum 63

Railway Heritage Centre 211

Randall House Museum 74Rooms 173Rossignol Cultural

Centre 62-3Ross-Thomson House 65Saint John Jewish

Historical Museum 125Sardine Museum 122Shelburne County

Museum 65Trinity Museum 189Twillingate Museum 196Wallace Museum 82Whitman House Museum

99Yarmouth County

Museum 67York Sunbury Historical

Museum 105music 10, 20, 233-6, see

also live musicAfrican influences 235-6ceilidhs 22, 234festivals 50, 61, 75, 100,

149, 156, 165, 177, 236Irish 87, 97, 152-3, 181,

233-4playlist 235Scottish 10, 167, 233-4

musk oxen 248

Nnational & provincial parks

250, 251, see also gardens, reserves

Barachois Pond Provincial Park 211

Basin Head Provincial Park 156

Blomidon Provincial Park 74

Brudenell River Provincial Park 155

Cape Breton Highlands National Park 12, 90-1, 13

Cape Chignecto Provincial Park 81-2

Cedar Dunes Provincial Park 168

Central Grove Provincial Park 69

Dungeon Park 190Five Islands Provincial

Park 79Fundy National Park 130-1Gros Morne National

Park 200-4

Herring Cove Provincial Park 121

Kejimkujik National Park 63-4

Kouchibouguac National Park 138-9

La Manche Provincial Park 185

Mealy Mountains National Park Reserve 218

Mt Carleton Provincial Park 112-14

New River Provincial Park 119

Point Pleasant Park 48Prince Edward Island

National Park 158-9, 160-61

Roosevelt Campobello International Park 121

Smuggler’s Cove Provincial Park 67

Sugarloaf Provincial Park 142

Taylor Head Provincial Park 100-1

Terra Nova National Park 195-6

Thomas Raddall Provincial Park 64

Torngat Mountains National Park 219

Victoria Harbour Provincial Park 158

natural gas exploration 225, 252

nature reserves, see national & provincial parks, reserves

Naufrage 157New Brunswick 38, 102-42,

103accommodations 102activities 109climate 102, 104driving distances 104food 102geography 104highlights 103history 104itineraries 109language 104scenic drives 111, 130,

132, 141travel seasons 102travel to/from 104-5

New Glasgow 85, 161-2New London 164New River Provincial

Park 119New World Island 196-8

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INDEX N

- T

Newfoundland 38, 169-221, 170

accommodations 169car rental 183climate 169, 171customs 181driving distances 172food 169, 180geography 171highlights 170history 171language 171planning 171travel seasons 169travel to/from 171-2wildlife 171

newspapers 264North Cape 168North Rustico 162-3North Sydney 95-6Nova Scotia 37, 40-101,

42-3accommodations 40climate 40culture 41food 40highlights 42-3history 41travel seasons 40travel to/from 41-4travel within 44

OOld Man Luedecke 234opening hours 17, 261orchids 250Orwell 153-4otters 186, 248, 251oysters 165

PPanmure Island 154-5Park Corner 164parks, see gardens,

national & provincial parks, reserves

Parrsboro 80-1passports 266Peggy’s Cove 9, 56-7, 9Petty Harbour 184phonecards 262Pictou 84-5piping plover 249pirates 227

planningbudgeting 16-17calendar of events 21-3children, travel with 34-6internet resources 16-17itineraries 24-7travel seasons 16

plants 250Point Prim 154polar bears 248politics 224-5pond hockey 21, 113, see

also hockeypopulation 225Port au Choix 204-5Port aux Basques 211-

13, 212postal services 261potatoes 110, 168Prince Edward Island (PEI)

38, 143-68, 144-5accommodations 143climate 143culture 146cycling 157food 143highlights 144-5history 146travel seasons 143travel to/from 146-7

Prince Edward Island National Park 158-9, 160-61

Prohibition 193Prospect 57public holidays 261-2pubs 236puffins 94, 109, 122, 123,

171, 176-7, 184, 190, 191, 216, 249

QQuébec

scenic drive 216

Rrazorbill 123, 188, 249Région Évangéline 167regions 37-8religion 225reserves, see also gardens,

national & provincial parks

Antigonish Landing 86Avalon Wilderness

Reserve 185Baccalieu Island

Ecological Reserve 187CA Pippy Park 176

Cape St Mary’s Ecological Reserve 188

Fortune Head Ecological Reserve 192

Grande Hermine Park 220

Irving Eco Centre 137Irving Nature Park 126Mistaken Point

Ecological Reserve 186restaurants 245reversing rapids 125root cellars 191Route 430, see Viking TrailRustico 160-1

SSable Island 100Sackville 136safety

driving 271environmental hazards

259hitchhiking 271marine conditions 32moose 129

sailing 60Saint John 124-9, 126salmon 117, 140, 199Sambro 56scenic drives

Acadian Peninsula 141Cabot Trail 88-94Fundy Trail Parkway 132Kennebecasis River

Valley 130Lower St John River

Valley 111Route 138 (Québec)

216Viking Trail 10, 200, 11

Scottish heritageculture 93, 94music 10, 167, 233-4

sea kayaking see canoeing, kayaking

seafood 18, 241-2, see also lobster suppers, oysters

seal hunting 202seals 69, 83, 91, 117, 121,

126, 168, 193, 248Seaside Adjunct

(Kejimkujik National Park) 64

Shediac 137Shelburne 65-6Sherbrooke 100shipyards 65, 167, see also

Titanic

shopping, see also individual locations, markets

language 276Shubenacadie 77skating 33, 50skiing 32-3

Corner Brook 208Fundy National Park 131Gros Morne National

Park 202Terra Nova National

Park 195Wapusakatto Mountains

220slavery 65, 229, 235smoking 264snowboarding 32-3, see

also skiingsnow-kiting 32, 208Souris 156-7South Coast Outports

214-15sports 28-33, see also

individual sportsspruce 250St Andrews by-the-Sea

115-19, 116St Ann 162St Anthony 206-7St Barbe 205-6St John’s 172-83, 174St Martins 129-30St Peter’s 157-8St Stephen 115Stan Rogers Folk Festival

22St-Pierre 192-5Summerside 165-7, 166surfing 32

Lawrencetown Beach 56Seaside Adjunct

(Kejimjukik National Park) 64

Sydney 96-7

Ttall ships 22, 49Tangier 101Tatamagouche 83-4taxes 260-1taxis 271Taylor Head Provincial Park

100-1telephone services 16,

262television 264Terra Nova National Park

195-6tidal bores 79, 133

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

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DEX T- Ztides 125, 131Tignish 168time 16, 263

language 276tipping 245, 261Titanic 44, 45, 173, 230Tobique Valley 112-14Torngat Mountains

National Park 219tourist information 263tours 271-2, see also

individual locationswine 76-7

Tracadie-Sheila 141train travel 267, 272travel to/from Nova Scotia,

New Brunswick & Prince Edward Island 266-8

travel within Nova Scotia, New Brunswick & Prince Edward Island 268-72

language 277traveler’s checks 261trekking, see hikingTrinity 188-90Trinity Bay 187

Truro 78-9Twillingate Island 196-8Tyne Valley 167-8

UUnesco World Heritage

sites 249Grand Pré 75-6Gros Morne National

Park 200-4Joggins 82L’Anse aux Meadows 205Lunenburg 60-2Red Bay 218

Vvacations 261-2vaccinations 258vegan travelers 245vegetarian travelers 245Victoria 158Viking Trail 10, 200, 11vikingsvisas 16, 263-4vodka 18volunteering 264

Wwalking, see hikingWallace 82weather 16, 21-3websites, see internet

resourcesWentworth 83West Pubnico 66whale-watching 20, 21, 28,

29, 248Avalon Peninsula 184-6Digby Neck 69-70Grand Manan Island 123

whiskey 18, 193, 243, see also distilleries

wildflowers 250wildlife 248-50, see also

individual speciesWindsor 76-7wine 18, 176, see also

wineriesfestivals 23, 243tours 76-7

wineries 18, 243, see also wine

Annapolis Highland Vineyards 71

Auk Island Winery 196

Bear River Vineyards 71Blomidon Estate Winery

76Domaine de Grand

Pré 77Gaspereau Vineyards 77Jost Winery 83L’Acadie Vineyards 77Luckett Vineyards 77Newman Estate Winery

154Rossignol Estate Winery

154, 19Wolfville 74-5wolves 248women travelers 264-5Wood Islands 154work 265World Heritage sites, see

Unesco World Heritage sites

YYarmouth 66-7

Zziplining 208

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287

Walking Tour detourWalking Tour

Path/Walking Trail

BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuinSento Hot Baths/OnsenShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight

DivingBodysurfing

Sleeping

Eating

Entertainment

Shopping

Drinking & NightlifeCafe

BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information

Airport

Border crossingBART station

BusBoston T station

CyclingFerry

Underground station

MonorailParking

Metro/Muni station

Petrol stationSubway/SkyTrain stationTaxiTrain station/RailwayTram

Other Transport

LighthouseHut/ShelterBeach

LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall

River, CreekIntermittent River

Swamp/Mangrove

Reef

Canal

Water

Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake

Glacier

Mudflat

Beach/Desert

Airport/Runway

Cemetery (Christian)

Cemetery (Other)

Park/Forest

Sportsground

Sight (Building)

International

DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall

Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

State/Province

Camping

Canoeing/KayakingCourse/TourSkiingSnorkelingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity

LaneTertiary

TollwayFreewayPrimary

StepsPlaza/Mall

Pedestrian overpass

Secondary

Unsealed roadRoad under construction

Tunnel

Cable car/Funicular

Sights

Activities,Courses & Tours

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Information Routes

Boundaries

Hydrography

Areas

Geographic

Population

Transport

Note: Not all symbols displayed aboveappear on the maps in this book

Map Legend

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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Celeste BrashCoordinating Author, Nova Scotia, Prince Edward Island Trading Dungeness crab for lobster was no hardship on this, Celeste’s fourth grand tour of the Maritimes. Over the years she’s rafted the Fundy tidal bore, watched eagles nest, got stuck in a ‘moose jam,’ and climbed more lighthouses than she can count and yet, these provinces come up with new surprises on each visit. Celeste has written around 50 Lonely Planet guides. Find out more about

Celeste and her writing at www.celestebrash.com.

Caroline SiegNew Brunswick Caroline Sieg is a half-Swiss, half-American writer. Her relation-ship with New Brunswick started when she first lived in Boston and she began heading up to Canada to see the crazy high tides everyone told her about. She was delighted to return for Lonely Planet.

Karla Zimmerman Newfoundland & Labrador Karla has covered Canada coast to coast for Lonely Planet. Newfoundland is her current beat, and over the years she has paddled by icebergs, come nose-to-beak with puffins, hiked in polar bear territory and driven by most of Newfoundland’s 120,000 moose. She’s visited Dildo, Come by Chance and Heart’s Delight, and intends to get to Jerry’s Nose one day soon. Karla writes travel features for books, magazines and online outlets. She has

authored or co-authored several Lonely Planet guides to the USA, Canada, Caribbean and Europe. Follow her at twitter.com/karlazimmerman.

OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

OUR WRITERS

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason-able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi-mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdABN 36 005 607 9833rd edition – Apr 2014ISBN 978 1 74220 294 5© Lonely Planet 2014 Photographs © as indicated 201410 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

Read more about Karla at: lonelyplanet.com/members/karlazimmerman

Read more about Caroline at: lonelyplanet.com/members/carolinesieg

Read more about Celeste at: lonelyplanet.com/members/celestebrash

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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’