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OUR READERSMany thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: A Adeline Bouchery, Amanda Larson-Mekler, Amber Richardson, Andy Foster, Ansuya Patel-Yorke, Anthony Naylon, Arpita Singh B Bernd Scholz, Borja Ramirez, Brett Leighton C Callum McQueen, Carolina Ech-enique, Chimmy Vyas, Chris Vaughan, Cindy Gray D Daniel Scott, David Wilson, Deanna D’Onofrio, Deep Grewal E Emanuela Milo, Erica Wijarnako G Gabriele Marangon, Gail Bruk-Jackson, Glenn Riddell, Grant Szuveges H Harry Smith, Henk Hilkmann, Hugh Connolly I Igor De Ruitz, Isabel Barrientos J James Freeborn, James Gannon, James Huxley, Jane McNab, Jessica Killaspy, Joe Morley, Josée Arsenault, Julian Trummer K Kai Xue, Katya Burns, Kevin Pomplun, Kirit Mehta L Les Sutherland, Lidor Cohen, Lisa Wor-thington, Lorenzo Facinelli, Lucas Almendra, Lynnell Mickelsen M Manish Jain, Marie Grif, Mario Tarallo, Martin Davis, Michael Bridger, Michael Hornsby, Mi-chael Yon, Mrinal Kamat N Nasreen Singh, Nicholas cooper, Nick Brock, Nikola Smith, Nina Bee O Ofelia Diaz P Patricia Keith, Paul Wiegmann, Pratibha Sahu R Rachel Ross, Rolf Wrelf, Ronin Pierre, Rosemary O’Donnell, Roz Green S Sam Ewalt, Samantha Spiro, Santosh Mohanty, Sean McHugh, Shane Hussey, Stephen Grinter, Steve Hughes T Thomas Janssens, Tom Stuart, Tony Wheeler, Tricia Bergman V Van Cau-wenberghe, Vanessa Bulhões, Víctor Castro, Vincent Robitaille Z Zachary Nowak, Zoe Evans

WRITER THANKSAbigail BlasiThanks to all the people who helped me in Delhi, including my Delhi family Jyoti and Niranjan Desai, to Danish Abbas, Nicholas Thompson, Sarah Foth-eringham, Toby Sinclair and the Delhi Walla himself, Mayank Austen Soofi. Special gratitude to Joe Bindloss and to all the other India authors for their help and knowledge. Huge thanks to my Mum, Ant & Luca for looking after everyone at home.

Lindsay BrownI am very grateful for the help and encouragement provided by Satinder, Karan & Ritu and Dicky & Kavita in Jaipur, Anoop in Pushkhar, Usha in Ranth-ambhore, Harsh in Bikaner, Siddharth in Jaisalmer, Ramesh Jangid in Nawalgarh, Laxmi Kant Jangid in Jhunjhunu and many many others who helped out along the road. Last but not least, thanks to Jenny.

Anirban MahapatraMy sincerest thanks above all to the amazing people of Punjab, Haryana, Kolkata, West Bengal and the Northeast States for their splendid warmth and hos-pitality. To Raja, Gina, Ashish, Samita, Joyita, Krishno, Sukanya, Jone, Rajib, Mamli, Oken, Sum, Richard, Kanno, Omak, Souvik, Madhuparna, George, Sheila, Mahesh, Vikas, John, Tatu, Punyo and many other wonderful souls for sharing their local knowledge and experience, inviting me into their homes, throwing me their car keys and cooking me some delicious meals along the way. Thanks to everyone at Lonely

Behind the Scenes

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

1225BEH

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E SCENES

Planet who made working on this title a breeze – cheers to all of you!

Isabella NobleThanks to everyone in Tamil Nadu, Ashish and Rucha Gupta and Shoshana Treichel in Chennai, Bernard Dragon and Michel Adment in Chetti-nadu, Raja Balasubramanian in Trichy, Junaid Sait and team in Ooty, Vijay Kumar in Kodai, and Mr Krish namurthi on the Kanyakumari–Puducherry Express. In Madhya Pradesh, huge thanks to Belinda Wright and Saptarishi Saigal. Thanks to the dream India co-author team, especially John Noble for laughs, tips and tiger safaris. At home, extra- special thanks to Jack, Andrew and Sarah.

John NobleSo many fantastic people in India gave me help, smiles and fellowship. Extra special thanks to Balvinder, Shubhda Chaturvedi, the Dhami family, Mark Elliott, Gilbert Gillou and family, Nitesh Jaiswal, Puneetinder Kaur Sidhu, Kristina Lauer, Vaneet Rana, Saptarishi Saigal, Sagnik Sengupta, Reggie Singh, Ankit Sood, Panki Sood, Praveen Sood, Sumit Raj Vashisht and Belinda Wright. Also to Joe Bindloss for steering the ship so expertly, and above all to Isabella Noble with whom I shared the entire experience!

Kevin RaubThanks to my wife, Adriana Schmidt Raub, Joe Bindloss, Sarina Singh, John Noble, Izzy Noble, Paul Harding and all my partners-in-crime at LP. On the road, Anil Wadwa, Amit Arora, Dhanya Pilo, Sarita Hedge Roy, Tanvi Maidkaker, Roshnee Desai, Greg Kroitzsh, Rishupreet Oberoi, Bindu Panicker, Aditya Dhanwatay, Ashok T Kadam, Abha Lambah, Karina Aggarwal and Pankil Shah.

Michael BenanavHuge thanks to Michael Schmid at Brown Bread Bakery in Varanasi for being incredibly helpful to many travellers, including myself, when the ‘cash crisis’ of 2016 struck. Thanks also to Shikha Tripa-thi, Sindhu Shah, Mukti Datta, John Noble, Monika Agarwal, Karan Singh, Praveen Kaushal and Mohan Rayal. As always, I’m ever grateful to Kelly and Luke for taking care of the animals and each other while I was on the road.

Mark ElliottEnormous thanks to Rouf John & family, Tundup & Gurmet, Mikka, Darren Clarkson-King, Najum, Meraj, Shubham & Pranav, Manon, Maunil Vora, Abhishek & Pranav, Wasil Nawaz Khan, Namgyal & Sani, Christina & Tashi, Peter & Wendy, Veena & Maruti, Nittish & Sri, Tashi Tsering, Thinley, Sonam, Jamie McG, Yanin & Mushtaq, Linda, Marie & Claire. In Sikkim thanks so much to Smriti and Sartaj, Nukul, Rinjong, OT Lepcha, Karma Dorje & Minla Zaymu, Wangdi, Sonam Bhutia, Pema at Mama’s, Tom, Kheli & Gili, Anuj & Sonali, Edu, Jacky, Monika & Stina, Chundip, Champala & Thendup at Gang-yak, Passang, Guus, Pala, Farid Belhadj, Michael.

Paul HardingThanks to all my dear friends in Goa and Kerala who helped out with company, advice and friend-ship – you all know who you are. Thanks also to new people, travellers and locals, I met on this trip. The biggest thanks goes to Hannah and my worldly young daughter Layla for accompanying me at least part of the way and putting up with my absences at other times.

Anna KaminskiThank you to Joe for entrusting me with Gujarat and Odisha, and to all who’ve assisted me along the way, including: Abigail, Michael, Kevin, Iain (fel-low scribes), Abhay, Rajiv, Saiyed, Mohammed and Anil in Ahmedabad, Jehan, Katie and Salim in Bhuj, the Singhs in Wankaner, Mustak in Jamnagar, the good people of Desia and Chandoori Sai in Odisha’s tribal country, Bubu in Puri; also Debjit, Sangarmi-tha, the Raja of Aul and everyone who helped me during the demonetisation crisis.

Bradley MayhewThanks to Norden and Thinley at Holumba Haven for their many tips and to Jigme Tshering and Bunty for showing me around Kalimpong. Tash delek to Norbu and Sangay-la in Darjeeling. Thanks also to Mithun Das in Madarihat and Gatty in Darjeeling.

Sarina SinghThank you to everyone who worked on this edition, with special thanks to Joe for being such a fab DE. Gratitude, also, to the many readers who took the time to send in their feedback and travel experi-ences – much appreciated indeed. Finally, warm thanks to my wise and wonderful parents who have always encouraged me to walk my own path.

Iain StewartThanks to Trent Holden and John Noble for tips and contacts, and Joe Bindloss and the LP team in London and Melbourne. On the road I was helped by Jonty in Hyderabad, Poornima Dasharathi in Bengaluru, the teams at Golden Mist in Kodagu and Uramma in Hampi, Prakash in Vijapura, Oliver the yogi in Gokarna and Vijay in Vizag.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTSClimate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrol-ogy and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633-44.Illustrations pp1164–5, pp1166–7, p1168 by Kelli Hamblet; pp372–3, pp870–1 by Michael Weldon, pp62–3, pp356–7, pp638–9 by Javier Zarracina.Cover photograph: Woman covered in coloured gulal (powder) celebrating Holi/THEPALMER/Getty Images©

1226

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THIS BOOKThis 17th edition of Lonely Planet’s India guidebook was curated by Abigail Blasi, Lind-say Brown, Anirban Mahapa-tra, Isabella Noble, John Noble and Kevin Raub, who also researched and wrote it along with Michael Benanav, Mark Elliott, Paul Harding, Anna Kaminski, Bradley Mayhew, Sarina Singh and Iain Stewart. This guidebook was produced by the following:

Destination Editor Joe BindlossProduct Editor Kathryn RowanCartographers Lonely Planet CartographyBook Designer Michael BuickAssisting Editors Sarah Bailey, Judith Bamber, Imo-gen Bannister, Bridget Blair, Nigel Chin, Melanie Dankel, Sam Forge, Carly Hall, Helen Koehne, Kellie Langdon, Ali Lemer, Anne Mulvaney, Rosie Nicholson, Lauren O’Connell,

Kristin Odijk, Ross Taylor, Saralinda TurnerCover Researcher Naomi ParkerThanks to Will Allen, Michelle Bennett, Hannah Cartmel, Kate Chapman, Joel Cotterell, Sasha Drew, Daniel Fahey, Gemma Graham, Shona Gray, Liz Heynes, Kate Kiely, Virginia Moreno, Catherine Naghten, Martine Power, Kirsten Rawl-ings, Alison Ridgway, Wibowo Rusli, Tom Stainer, Tracy Whitmey

1227

Index

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

AAbhaneri 125accommodation 1182-4, see

also individual locationslanguage 1214, 1217

activities 24-8, see also individual activities

Adivasi people 1129Agartala 586-8, 587Agonda 845-6Agra 51, 352-75, 353, 360,

362accommodation 352climate 352drinking & nightlife 367festivals & events 365food 352highlights 353medical services 368shopping 367-8sights 353-61tourist information 369tours 361-2travel seasons 352travel to/from 369-70travel within 370

Agra Fort 358-60Ahmedabad (Amdavad)

688-99, 690-1accommodation 694-5festivals & events 694food 695-7shopping 697sights 689-93tourist information 697-8tours 693-4travel to/from 698-9travel within 699

Aihole 906-7air travel 1195, 1197-8Aizawl 585-6Ajanta 12, 787-90, 788,

12, 629

Ajmer 133-6, 134Akhnoor 281Alappuzha (Alleppey) 960-

6, 962Alchi 257Allahabad 404-8, 406Alleppey 960-6, 962Almora 447-8Along 575-6altitude sickness 241, 1211Alwar 129-31Amaravathi 933-4Amaravati 931Amber 125-6Amber Fort 125-6Amrithanandamayi 960Amritsar 212-19, 214amusement parks

Esselworld 745Mountain Magic 443Water Kingdom 745

Anandpur Sahib 211-12Andaman Islands 54, 1086-

104, 1087climate 1086highlights 1087tourist information

1088-9travel seasons 1086travel to/from 1089travel within 1089-90

Andhra Pradesh 53, 911-13, 931-40, 912

climate 911festivals & events 913food 911highlights 912travel seasons 911

Anegundi 903animals, see wildlife, individ-

ual speciesAnjuna 829-32, 830Anmu 266antiques 1188aquariums 953-4arak 1147

Araku Valley 938Arambol (Harmal) 838-40archaeological sites, see

also ruinsDholavira 730Lalitgiri 617Mehrauli Archaeological

Park 101Qutb Minar Complex 101Ratnagiri 617Udayagiri 617Unakoti 588

architecture 13, 868, 1164-8area codes 19, 1088, 1193art galleries, see galleriesartist colonies 1024arts 1159-63, see also indi-

vidual artsAru 275Arunachal Pradesh 572-9Ashoka 1112ashrams 39

Matha Amrithanandamayi Mission 960

Rishikesh 415Sabarmati Ashram 690Sivagiri Mutt 953Sri Aurobindo Ashram

1038-9Vivekanandapuram 1067

Assagao 832-3Assam 561-72Aswem 837ATMs 1188-9Auli 438-9Aurangabad 779-83, 780Auroville 1044-5autorickshaws 1201Avalanche Valley 1082avian flu 1209Ayodhya 402-4ayurveda 23, 39-40, 957, 41

Alappuzha (Alleppey) 961Bengaluru (Bangalore)

858Delhi 79Dharamkot 331

Goa 811Jaipur 113Kochi (Cochin) 980Kollam (Quilon) 959Kovalam 949, 952Mamallapuram

(Mahabalipuram) 1027Mandrem 838McLeod Ganj 324Mysuru (Mysore) 869Periyar Wildlife Sanctu-

ary 969Puducherry (Pondicherry)

1040Pushkar 137-8Thiruvananthapuram

(Trivandrum) 945Udaipur 156Varanasi 383

Ayyappan 968

BBadami 905-6Badshahi Ashurkhana 914Baga 825-9, 826Bageshwar 450-1Bahai House of Worship 76-7Bandel 487-8Bandhavgarh Tiger Reserve

678-80Bandipur National Park

878-80Bangalore, see BengaluruBangladesh

border crossings 494, 586, 592, 1196

travel to/from 1196Banjar Valley 299-301Bansberia 488bargaining 1152Barkul 610-11Baroda 701-3Barsheni 305Basgo 256Baspa Valley 294-5Bathinda 221-2bathrooms 1193


1228

IND

EX B- C

bazaars, see markets & bazaars

beaches 22Alleppey Beach 961Anjuna 829Aswem 837Bheemunipatnam 937Chennai (Madras) 1009Cherai 989-90Cola Beach 844Corbyn’s Cove 1090Diu 710Gokarna 893Havelock Island 1095, 23Kattoor 966Khancola Beach 844Kollam (Quilon) 958Lighthouse 949Little Andaman 1104Malvan 796Mamallapuram (Mahaba-

lipuram) 1027Mandarmani 487Mandrem 837-8Mangaluru (Mangalore)

887Marari 966Morjim 836Mumbai (Bombay)

745, 748Neil Island 1099Palolem 846-9, 847, 14Patnem 849-50Payyambalam Beach

998Puri 604Visakhapatnam 935

bears 371, 902beer 762, 862, 1148Bekal 1000-1Belur (Beluru) 884Belur Math 464Benaulim 843-5Bengaluru (Bangalore) 53,

853-66, 854accommodation 858-60activities 858drinking & nightlife

862-3entertainment 863food 860-1shopping 863-4sights 856-8tourist information

864-5

tours 858travel to/from 865travel within 866

Berhampore 491-2Betla (Palamau) National

Park 533-4Bhadarwah 281Bhagsu 329-31Bhaja Caves 799Bhandardara 777-9bhang lassi 1191Bharatpur 126-9, 127Bharmour 339-41Bhavnagar 704-6, 705Bheemunipatnam 937Bhimbetka 651Bhitarkanika Wildlife

Sanctuary 618-20Bhojpur 651Bhongir 929-30Bhopal 645-50, 646Bhubaneswar 595-602,

596-7Bhuj 724-9, 725Bhuntar 301-2Bhutan

border crossings 494, 1196-7

travel to/from 1196-7bicycle travel, see cyclingBidar 909-10Bihar 52, 516-31, 517

accommodation 516climate 516festivals & events 518food 516highlights 517

Bijapur 907-9, 908Bikaner 194-200, 196-7Biligiri Ranganna Temple

Wildlife Sanctuary 879Billing 334Binsar 449Bir 334bird flu 1209birds 1172birdwatching 1170, 1172

Backwoods Camp 818Hampi 898Keoladeo National Park

127-8Khijadiya Bird

Sanctuary 723Kumarakom Bird

Sanctuary 967-8Majuli Island 569Mumbai (Bombay) 751Nalsarovar Bird

Sanctuary 699

Nameri National Park 567

Ranganathittu Bird Sanctuary 878

Sultanpur Bird Sanctuary 224

Thattekkad Bird Sanctuary 975

Bishnupur 488black market 1189Blackbuck National Park

706blackbucks 706boat travel 1196, 1199, 1201boat trips 22

Alappuzha (Alleppey) 961

Assam 563Candolim 823Diu 710Goa 815-16Hooghly River 488Kerala’s backwaters

964-5Kochi (Cochin) 981Kolkata (Calcutta) 466Kollam (Quilon) 958Kota 148Lakshadweep 1001Periyar Wildlife

Sanctuary 969Puducherry (Pondi-

cherry) 1040Srinagar 268, 270-1Sunderbans Tiger

Reserve 486, 487Udaipur 154Valiyaparamba

backwaters 1001boating

Kodaikanal (Kodai) 1070Ooty (Udhagamanda-

lam) 1081Bodhgaya 525-9, 526Bodhi Tree 525Bollywood 765Bombay, see MumbaiBomdila 576books 1106

food 1141, 1142, 1143, 1144, 1145

health 1208history 1110, 1113, 1115,

1117, 1118, 1121, 1122border crossings 1196-7

Bangladesh 494, 586, 592, 1196

Bhutan 494, 1196-7Nepal 390, 391, 396, 447,

494, 524, 1197, 1198Pakistan 183, 220-1, 1197

Tibet 538Brahma 1133Brahman 1133Brahmasarovar 223British Residency (Hydera-

bad) 915-17Buddhism 932, 1138-9Buddhist temples, see also

stupasAjanta 12, 787-90, 788,

12, 629Burmese Temple &

Monastery 392Chetiyagiri Vihara 654Chokhang Vihara 229-30Choskhor temple

complex 257Ellora 785-6Global Pagoda 748-9, 41Himalayan Nyinmapa

Buddhist Temple 309Japanese Peace Pagoda

499-500Mahabodhi Temple 525Mahaparinirvana Temple

394Mathakuar Temple 394Mulgandha Kuti Vihar 393Sanchi 650-5, 652, 1168Thai Temple & Monas-

tery 392Triloknath Temple 343Tsuglagkhang Complex

321, 323Tsuklakhang 539Wat Thai Complex 394

budget 19buffalo racing 892Bundi 143-8, 144bus travel 1199-200, 1201business hours 19, 1190Bylakuppe 883

Ccable cars

Auli 439Mussoorie 430Raj Bhavan 443Rangit Valley Ropeway

500Calangute 825-9, 826Calcutta, see KolkataCalicut 993-5, 994camel fairs 138camel safaris

Bikaner 195Jaisalmer 190-1Sam Sand Dunes 193

camping 1183Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

1229IN

DEX C

- CCandolim 823-5canyoning 47, 846, 904Capital Complex 203car travel 1200-1carbon-monoxide poison-

ing 1210carpets 1151-2cash 1189caste system 1127-8cathedrals, see churches &

cathedralsCauvery River 1047caves

Ajanta 12, 787-90, 788, 12, 629

Aurangabad Caves 779-80

Badami Cave Temples 905-6

Bhaja Caves 799Borra Caves 938Cave Temples (Badami)

905-6Edakkal Caves 995Ellora 784-7, 785, 21Karla Caves 799Khandagiri Caves 597-8Pachmarhi 657Padmasambhava Cave

298Tabo 350Tiger Cave 1024Trimurti Cave Temple

1028Udaigiri Caves 655Udayagiri Caves 597-8

cell phones 18, 1191-2Cellular Jail National

Memorial 1090cemeteries

Dutch Cemetery 979Imphal War Cemetery

583Nicholson Cemetery 67South Park Street

Cemetery 456-7War Cemetery 579

chai 1147Chamba 336-9Chamba Valley 335-41Champaner 704Chand Baori 125Chandarnagar 487Chandigarh 203-10, 204-5

accommodation 207-8activities 206-7drinking & nightlife 209food 208-9shopping 209-10sights 203-6

travel to/from 210travel within 210

Chandor 842chapatis 1141Chapora 833-6, 834Char Dham 433-7charas (hashish) 302Chaturbhuj Temple 631,

629Chemrey 248Chennai (Madras) 54,

1002-25, 1006-7, 1012-13

accommodation 1011-15activities 1011climate 1002courses 1011drinking & nightlife

1018-19entertainment 1019festivals & events 1011food 1015-18history 1005medical services 1020-1orientation 1020shopping 1019sights 1005-11tourist information 1021tours 1011travel seasons 1002travel to/from 1020,

1021-2travel within 1022-4

Chennamangalam 991Cheras, kingdom of 943Cherrapunjee (Sohra) 592Chettiars 1057Chettinadu 1057-9Chhatrapati Shivaji

Terminus 739, 742Chhattisgarh 52, 621-3,

681-5, 622accommodation 621climate 621festivals & events 623food 621highlights 622travel seasons 621

Chidambaram 1045-7Chidiya Tapu 1094-5children, travel with 47-9,

745Chilika Lake 609-11Chilling 255-6Chinese Fishing Nets 977Chinnar Wildlife

Sanctuary 976Chinsurah 488Chitkul 294-5

Chitrakote Falls 685Chitrakut 404Chittorgarh (Chittor) 149-

52, 150Chola 1049cholera 1209choli 1127Christianity 1139-40churches & cathedrals

Armenian Church 1011Basilica of Bom Jesus

820Christ Church (Mus-

soorie) 430Christ Church (Shimla)

283, 287Church & Convent of St

Cajetan 821Church of Our Lady

of the Immaculate Conception 813, 815

Church of South India 993

Luz Church 1011MacFarlane Church 509New Jerusalem Church

1047Notre Dame des Anges

1040, 17Our Lady of Immaculate

Conception Cathedral 1040

Our Lady of Lourdes Cathedral 991

Sacred Heart Basilica 1040

Salvation Army Temple 585

San Thome Cathedral 1010

Santa Cruz Basilica 979Sé Cathedral 820St Aloysius College

Chapel 886St Andrew’s Church 1011St Francis Church 979St John in the Wilder-

ness 323St John’s Church 460St Mary’s Church 1009St Paul’s Cathedral 456St Stephen’s Church

1079St Teresa’s Church 511St Thomas’ Cathedral

744cinema 1162-3Cinque Island 1094climate 18, 24-8, see

also individual regionsCochin, see Kochi

Coimbatore 1073-6, 1074Colva 842-3Connemara Tea Factory

968-9consulates 1184-6cooking courses

Anjuna 829Assagao 832Delhi 80Jaipur 113Kochi (Cochin) 981Kolkata (Calcutta) 467-8McLeod Ganj 326Munnar 973Palolem 846Periyar Wildlife

Sanctuary 969Pushkar 138Udaipur 156

Coonoor 1076-8Corbett Tiger Reserve

440-3costs 19

accommodation 1182car travel 1200-1food 1186solo travellers 1181train travel 1205

courses, see also cooking courses

art 1011ayurvedic 722language 1011, 1187martial arts 945

Covelong 1025credit cards 1178, 1189cricket 1131-2crocodiles

Bhitarkanika Wildlife Sanctuary 618-19

Madras Crocodile Bank 1024

Cubbon Park 857cultural programs

Puducherry (Pondi-cherry) 1040

Thiruvananthapuram (Trivandrum) 945

Thrissur (Trichur) 993culture 1126-13currency 18, 1189customs regulations 1184cycle-rickshaws 1201cycling 20, 1198-9, see also

mountain bikingDelhi 79Jaipur 113Kochi (Cochin) 981Kodaikanal (Kodai) 1070Leh 232

1230

IND

EX C- F

cycling continuedMamallapuram

(Mahabalipuram) 1028Orchha 631-2Udaipur 156-7

Dda Gama, Vasco 943, 993dabba-wallahs 759Dal Lake 267-8Dalai Lama 324Dalhousie 335-6, 335dance 1159Dandeli 904dangers, see safetyDaporijo 575Darcha 266Darjeeling 52, 497-507,

498, 509, 14accommodation 502-3drinking & nightlife 505food 503-5internet access 506itineraries 500medical services 506shopping 505-6sights 497-501tea estates 504tourist information 506travel to/from 506-7travel within 507

Darjeeling Himalayan Railway 507

Daulatabad 783-4Deeg 130Dehra Dun 425-9, 427Delhi 16, 50, 56-103,

58-9, 16accommodation 56, 80-5activities 79climate 56Connaught Place 68-9,

83, 87-8, 95, 68-9courses 80drinking & nightlife 91-2entertainment 93festivals & events 57food 56, 85-91highlights 58-9internet access 97Majnu-ka-Tilla 85medical services 97New Delhi 69-75, 84,

88-90, 95-6, 72-3

Old Delhi 60-8, 80-1, 85-6, 94-102, 64-5

Paharganj 81-3, 86-7, 82safety 96-7shopping 93-102sights 57-79South Delhi 76-8, 84-5,

90-1, 96, 76-7tourist information 97tours 79-80travel seasons 56travel to/from 97-8travel within 98-101West Delhi 83-4, 86-7

Demul 348dengue fever 1209Dhainkund 335dhal 1142Dhankar 349Dhanushkodi 1065Dharamkot 329-31Dharamsala 319-20, 320Dharmasthala 888-9dhoti 1127diarrhoea 1209-10Dibrugarh 571-2Diglipur 1102-3Dimapur 579Dirang 576-8disabilities, travellers with

1193Diskit 251Diu 708-12, 709diving

Havelock Island 1095-7Kovalam 949Lakshadweep 1001Long Island 1102Malvan 796Neil Island 1099Port Blair 1090

Diwali 24, 28Don Bosco Museum of

Indigenous Cultures 589-90

dosas 1142Dr Graham’s Home 511drinks 1146-8driving 1200-1drugs 1178, 1187-8Dudhsagar Falls 813Durga Puja 471, 485Dussehra 24, 27, 306,

694, 869Dzongri 556-7, 557

Eeconomy 1107electricity 1184

elephant rides & safarisBetla (Palamau) National

Park 533-4Corbett Tiger Reserve

441Jaldhapara Wildlife

Sanctuary 495Kaziranga National Park

567-8Elephanta Island 749elephants 1169, 23

Wayanad region 995Ellora 784-7, 785Eluru 934embassies 1184-6embroidery 728-9emergencies 19

language 1216, 1218encephalitis, Japanese

B 1209environmental issues

1174-6climate change 1176,

1195deforestation 1172-3,

1176endangered species 1171internet resources 1170Kerala (houseboats) 965water 233, 1176

Eravikulam National Park 976

etiquette 1108, 1137, 1146events 24-8, see also festi-

vals & eventsexchange rates 19

FFaridkot 222Fatehpur 172Fatehpur Sikri 371-5, 373-

4, 629festivals & events 24-8

Adivasi Mela 599Amarnathji Yatra 277Andhra Pradesh 913Ardh Mela 404Baisakhi 203Bastille Day 1041Bengali New Year 485Boro Din 468Brahmotsavam 913,

938, 1010Chandi Mata Yatra 228Chariot Festivals 1046Chennai Festival of

Music & Dance 1011Chhath Festival 518Chithirai Festival 1062Cochin Carnival 981

Covelong Point Surf & Music Festival 1025

Delhi 57Dev Diwali 377Dharamsala Interna-

tional Film Festival 326

Diwali 28Dosmoche 228Dover Lane Music 468Durga Puja 471, 485Dussehra 24, 27, 306,

694, 869Dussehra Mela 112Eid-ul-fitr 468Ernakulathappan

Utsavam 981Festival of Dance 642Free Spirit Film Festival

326Ganesh Chaturthi 27Ganga Sagar Mela 485,

486Gangaur 112Gita Jayanti 203Goa 811Gujarat 688Harballabh Sangeet

Sammelan 203Haryana 203Himachal Pradesh 283Holi 24, 25, 410Holla Mohalla 203International Yoga

Festival 418Jagaddhatri Puja 485Jammu 228Janmastami 410Jodhpur Flamenco &

Gypsy Festival 178Kailash Fair 365Karnataka 853Kashmir 228Kerala 943Ki Chaam Festival 283,

347Kila Raipur Sports

Festival 203Kolkata Book Fair 468Kolkata (Calcutta) 468Kolkata Film Festival 468Kolkata Jazzfest 468Kollam Pooram 959Kottamkulangara Cha-

maya Vilakku 959Kumbh Mela 421-2, 663,

775, 1129Ladakh Festival 228Losar 228, 283Madhya Pradesh 623Madras Week 1011


1231IN

DEX F- G

Magh Mela 377, 405, 489Maharashtra 774Mamallapuram Dance

Festival 1028Mamallapuram (Mahaba-

lipuram) 1028Manimahesh Yatra 283Marwar Festival 178Matho Nagrang 245Mewar Festival 157Minjar Festival 283Muharram 913Natyanjali Dance Festival

1046Navratri 27, 694Nehru Trophy Boat

Race 961Northeast States 561Odisha 595Onam 26, 943Pandit Motiram-Maniram

Sangeet Samaroh 920Pataliputra Mahotsava

518Phulech Festival 283Pinjore Heritage Festival

203Poush Mela 489President’s Trophy Boat

Race 959Punjab 203Puri Beach Festival 605Purnima 377Pushkar Camel Fair 138Rajasthan 112Rajasthan International

Folk Festival 178Rajgir Mahotsava 518, 529Ram Barat 365Ram Lila 377Rath Yatra 468, 485, 605Sankranti 913Saraswati Puja 468Shivaratri Mela 658Sikkim 537Sonepur Mela 518SulaFest 776Surajkund Crafts Mela

224Taj Mahotsav 365Tamil Nadu 1004Teej 112Telangu 913Teppam (Float) Festival

1062Thrissur Pooram 991Thyagaraja Aradhana

1052Thypooya Maholsavam

991

Tibet Film Festival 326Tibetan Opera Festival

326Uthralikavu Pooram 991Uttarakhand 414Uttar Pradesh 377Virupaksha Car Festival

899Visakha Utsav 935West Bengal 485

film 765films 1106, 1162-3food 1141-50

Bengali cuisine 473books 1141, 1142, 1143,

1144, 1145chapatis 1141costs 1186desserts 1144dhal 1142dosas 1142etiquette 1146Goan cuisine 817Gujurati cuisine 696Hyderabad cuisine 924internet resources 1147Kashmiri cuisine 273kebabs 400Ladakhi cuisine 239language 1148-50, 1214-

15, 1217Mumbai cuisinepaan 1143rice 1141roti 1141safety 1178, 1210Sikkim cuisine 543spices 1141street food 1144-5tours 1061

forts 20Agra Fort 358-60Akbar’s Fort 405Amber Fort 125-6Anandpur Sahib

Fort 212Bala Quila 130-1Bangalore Fort 857Bhadra Fort 691Bidar Fort 909-10Chandragiri Fort 940Chittorgarh 149-51Citadel (Vijapura) 907Dansborg 1047Daulatabad 783-4Diu Fort 708-9Fort Aguada 823Fort St George 1009Gingee Fort 1037

Golconda Fort 917-19Govindgarh 221-2Gwalior Fort 625-6Hari Parbat Fort 272Jaigarh 126Jaisalmer Fort 15, 184, 15Janjira 793Junagarh 194-5Kamru Fort 294Kangla Fort 583Kangra Fort 332Kankwari Fort 132Kumbhalgarh 163Lohagarh 127Madikeri Fort 881Mehrangarh 17, 175-6, 17Naggar Castle 307Nahargarh 111-12Pratapgad Fort 807Purana Qila 73-104Qila Mubarak 219-20Raghupur Fort 299Raigad Fort 794Red Fort 60-1, 62-3,

62-3Shaniwar Wada 801Shivneri Fort 806Sindhudurg Fort 796Sinhagad 806Sultan’s Battery 886Taragarh 145Tsemo Fort 230Tughlaqabad 102Uparkot Fort 716-17Vellore Fort 1033Warangal 930

Ggalleries, see also

museumsAcademy of Fine Arts

(Kolkata) 459Birla Modern Art Gallery

917Book Building 1011Cholamandal Artists’

Village 1024CIMA 465Crystal Gallery 153DAG Modern 744Government Museum &

Art Gallery (Chandi-garh) 204-6

Harrington Street Arts Centre 459

Jehangir Art Gallery 743Kalakriti Art Gallery 917Karnataka Chitrakala

Parishath 856

National Gallery of Modern Art (Ben-galuru) 856

National Gallery of Modern Art (Delhi) 71, 856

Gandhi, Mahatma 450, 720, 724, 1121-2, 1155

Ganesh 1134Ganesh Chaturthi 24, 27Gangotri 433-4Gangtok 538-45, 540Ganpatipule 794-5gardens

Cubbon Park 857Lalbagh Botanical

Gardens 857Garo Hills 591-2Gaumukh 433-4Gaur 491gay travellers 763, 1188Gaya 524-5gem scams 1178-9geography 1174-5Gete 347ghats

Dashashwamedh Ghat 382, 4, 14

Haridwar 421Mahalaxmi Dhobi Ghat

745Mathura 409Mumbai (Bombay) 745Ram Ghat 663Ramkund 775Varanasi 381-2, 4, 14

Ghum 501Gingee (Senji) 1037Gir National Park & Wildlife

Sanctuary 713-15Girnar Hill 716glaciers 433, 435Goa 14, 53, 809-50,

810, 14accommodation 809climate 809festivals & events 811highlights 810travel seasons 809

Goecha La 556-7, 557Gokarna 893-6, 891Golconda Fort 917-19Golden Temple 17, 212-13,

17, 1166-7golf

Delhi 79Kolkata (Calcutta) 467Naldehra 292

gompas 1139

1232

IND

EX G- H

Gondal 719-20Gopalpur-on-Sea 611-12Gorakhpur 393-4Govind Wildlife Sanctuary

& National Park 434Gramphu 341, 344Great Himalayan National

Park 299, 301Guda Bishnoi 183Gujarat 53, 686-733, 687

accommodation 686climate 686festivals & events 688,

700food 686highlights 687travel seasons 686

Gujarat Ayurved University 722

Gulabgarh 280, 281Gulmarg 276, 28Guntupalli 933Gurgaon (Gurugram) 102-3Guru Shikhar 167Guwahati 561-5, 562Gwalior 623-30, 624Gwalior Fort 625-6

Hhaggling 1152Hajo 565-6Halebid 884-5Hampi 11, 842, 896-902,

898, 900, 11handicrafts 447, 500, 511,

728-9Haridwar 421-4, 422Harmal, see ArambolHaryana 50, 201, 223-4,

202accommodation 201climate 201festivals & events 203food 201highlights 202travel seasons 201

hashish 302Hassan 884havelis

Bhagton ki Choti Haveli 169

Binsidhar Newatia Haveli 173

Le Prince Haveli 172Modi Havelis 171

Mohanlal Ishwardas Modi Haveli 171

Murmuria Haveli 173Nathmal-ki-Haveli 187Patwa-ki-Haveli 186-7Shekhawati 173

Havelock Island 1095-8, 1096, 23

Hawa Mahal 111headhunting 581health 1206-12

books 1208checklist 1206-7children 49environmental hazards

1210-12insurance 1206internet resources 1208services 1208vaccinations 1206, 1207

heatstroke 1211Heliodorus Pillar 655Hemis 247-8Hemis National Park 248Hemis Shukpachan 256henna 1161hepatitis 1209Hesaraghatta 866-7hijras 1131hiking, see trekkingHikkim 347hill stations 14

Coonoor 1076-8Dalhousie 335-6, 335Darjeeling 52, 497-507,

498, 509, 14Kotagiri 1078Morni Hills 211Mt Abu 165-9, 166Mussoorie 429-32, 430Ooty (Udhagamandalam)

1078-84, 1080Shimla 283-91, 286-7

Himachal Pradesh 51, 282-351, 284-5

accommodation 282climate 282festivals & events 283food 282highlights 284travel seasons 282

Himalaya 1174Hindi language 1213-17Hindu temples

1000-Pillared Temple 930

Ahom Temples 570Airavatesvara Temple

1049

Akshardham Temple 78Arunachaleshwar Temple

1034-5Badrinath Temple 436Bala Hanuman Temple

722Bhimakali Temple 293Bhootnath Mandir 297Bijamandala Temple 642Bijli Mahadev Temple

306Birla Mandir (Hydera-

bad) 917Birla Mandir (Kolkata)

465Bisheshwar Mahadev

Temple 301-2Brahma Temple (Khaju-

raho) 641Brahma Temple (Push-

kar) 136-7,Brajeshwari Devi Temple

332Brihadishwara Temple

1050Bull Temple 857Cave Temples (Badami)

905-6Channakeshava Temple

884Chaturbhuj Temple

631, 629Chaturbhuja Temple 642Chaurasi Temples 339Chausath Yogini Temple

640Chhatarpur Mandir 77-8Chitragupta Temple 640Devi Jagadamba Temple

640Duladeo Temple 642Ekambareshwara Temple

1031Elephanta Island 749Ellora 786, 21Five Rathas 1025-7Galta 112-13Gangaikondacholapuram

Temple 1049Gangotri Temple 433-4Gauri Sagar 571Gita Temple 409Govind Dev Temple 411Hadimba Temple 309Hanuman Temple

(Anegundi) 903Hanuman Temple

(Khajuraho) 641Hanumangarhi 402Harsiddhi Mandir 663Hoysaleswara Temple 884

Iskcon Temple (Ben-galuru) 857-8

Iskcon Temple (Mum-bai) 748

Jagannath Mandir (Puri) 604

Jagannath Temple (Koraput) 612

Jagdish Temple 155Jakhu Temple 288Jalakantesvara Temple

1033Janardhana Temple 953Javari Temple 641Jhandewalan Hanuman

Temple 68Kailasa Temple 784-5, 21Kailasanatha Temple

1030-1Kala Rama Temple 775Kalighat Temple 464Kamakhya Mandir 561Kamakshi Amman

Temple 1031Kanak Bhavan 403Kanaka Durga Temple 931Kandariya-Mahadev

Temple 637, 640Kapaleeshwarar Temple

1010Karni Mata Temple 198Kesava Deo Temple 409Khajuraho temples 15,

635-45, 636, 15, 628, 638-9

Krishna Balaram Temple Complex (Vrindavan) 410-11

Krishna Temple (Udupi) 889

Kumari Amman Temple 1065-6

Kumbeshwara Temple 1048

Lakshmana Temple 637Lakshmi Narayan Temple

( Delhi) 67-8Lakshmi Narayan Temple

(Rajgir) 530Lakshmi Narayan Temple

Complex (Chambra) 336-7

Laxminarayan Temple 186

Lingaraj Mandir 596Mahabaleshwara Temple

893Mahadeva Temple 640Mahaganapati Temple

893Mahakaleshwar Mandir

663


1233IN

DEX H

- JMahalaxmi Temple

745, 807Manjunatha Temple 888Manu Maharishi Temple

309Markula Devi Temple 343Matangesvara Temple

640Meenakshi Amman

Temple 1059-60, 1165, 1164-5

Mukteswar Mandir 596Nageshwara Temple

1047-8Naina Bhagwati Temple

306Nanda Devi Temple 447Nataraja Temple 1046Nil Kanth Palace 669Old Rangji Temple 136Pagal Baba Temple 411Pap Mochani (Gayatri)

Temple 137Parthasarathy Temple

1009Parvati Temple 640Patalpuri Temple 405Pratapeswar Temple 640Raghunath Mandir

(Jammu) 278Raghunath Temple

(Kullu) 306Rajarani Mandir 598Ramappa Temple 930-1Ram Janam Bhumi 403Ram Raja Temple 631Rock Fort Temple 1054-5Sarangapani Temple 1048Sasbahu Temples 626Savitri Mata Temple 136Shore Temple 1025Shri Padmanabhaswamy

Temple 945Simhachalam Temple 935Sri Jambukeshwara

Temple 1054Sri Kalahasteeswara

Temple 940Sri Manakula Vinayagar

Temple 1039Sri Ranganathaswamy

Temple 1053-4Subrahmanya Temple

1024Sun Temple 608-9Swaminarayan Temple

692Swarg Niwas & Shri

Trayanbakshwar 414-15Tapkeshwar Temple 426Teli ka Mandir 626

Temple of Somnath 713Thirunelly Temple 995Triloknath Temple 343Trimbakeshwar Temple

779Trimurti Cave Temple

1028Undavalli Cave Temples

931Vadakkunathan

Kshetram Temple 991Vaidyanath Temple 333Vaikunta Perumal

Temple 1031Vamana Temple 641Varadaraja Perumal

Temple 1031-2Vashisht Mandir 317Venkateshwara Temple

938-9Vijayalaya Cholisvaram

1058Virupaksha Temple 896Vishvanath Temple 640Vishwanath Temple

380-1Vittala Temple 896-7Yamunotri Temple 433

Hinduism 1133-6history 1109-25

books 1110, 1113, 1115, 1117, 1118, 1121, 1122

British rule 1118-19Buddhism 1111early civilisations 1109-11films 1121, 1125French era 1118Gupta empire 1111-13Hindu reign 1113independence 1122-4Indian Uprising 1120internet resources 1109,

1110Jainism 1111Kashmir conflict 1123Maratha era 1117Mauryan empire 1111Mughal empire 1115-17Muslim reign 1113-14Partition 1122-4Portuguese era 1118-19Rajput era 1117Vijayanagar empire 1116

hitching 1201HIV 1209hockey 1132Holi 24, 25holidays 1190-1Homestay Trail 348homestays 1183-4

Hooghly River 487-8horse riding

Darjeeling 501Nainital 444Udaipur 156

Hosapete (Hospet) 904hot springs

Khir Ganga 305Vashisht 317-18Yamunotri 433

houseboatsAlappuzha (Alleppey)

961Kerala’s backwaters

964-5Kollam (Quilon) 958Srinagar 268, 270-1Valiyaparamba’s backwa-

ters 1001Hubballi (Hubli) 904-5Hundarman 261Hunder 251Hyderabad 913-29, 915,

916, 918, 922, 925accommodation 920-2drinking & nightlife 926-7entertainment 926-7festivals & events 913food 922-6medical services 927shopping 927tourist information 927tours 920travel to/from 927-8travel within 928-9

IIgatpuri 779immigration 1195Imphal 583-4Indian Coffee House 946indigenous peoples

Adivasi people 1129Andamanese people 1101Apatani 575Jarawa people 1101Nicobarese people 1101Odisha 614Onge people 1101Sentinelese people 1101Shompen people 1101

Indore 659-62, 660influenza 1209insurance

health 1206motorcycle 1203travel 1186

internet access 1186-7

internet resources 19air tickets 1197-8food 1147health 1208history 1109, 1110

Islam 1136-7Islamnagar 651islands

Andaman Islands 54, 1086-104, 1087

Elephanta Island 749Havelock Island 1095-8,

1096, 23Jagmandir Island 154-5Majuli Island 569-70Neil Island 1099-10Ponnumthuruthu

(Golden) Island 954Ross Island 1092Sagar Island 749St Mary’s Island 892

Iswari Minar Swarga Sal 111Itanagar 573-4itineraries 29-33

Darjeeling 500Kolkata (Calcutta) 457

JJabalpur 673-6, 674Jagdalpur 683-5Jageshwar 449Jagmandir Island 154-5Jain temples

Adinath Mandir (Jamna-gar) 721

Adinath Temple (Khaju-raho) 641

Babu Amichand Panalal Adishwarji Jain Temple 745

Bhandasar Temple 195Cave Temples (Badami)

905-6Delwara Temples 165Digambara Jain

Temple 61Ellora 786-7Ghantai Temple 641Hutheesingh Temple 689Jaisalmer 185Mahavira Temple 183Nasiyan (Red) Temple

134-5Parasnath Temple 532Parsvanath Temple 641Ranakpur 164Shantinath Mandir

(Jamnagar) 721Shantinath Temple

(Khajuraho) 641

1234

IND

EX J- K

Jainism 1139Jaintia Hills 591-2Jaipur 105-25, 108-9

accommodation 115-17activities 113courses 113drinking & nightlife 120entertainment 120-1food 118-19internet access 122medical services 122shopping 121-5sights 105-13tourist information 122tours 113-15travel to/from 122-4travel within 124-5walking tours 114, 114

Jaisalmer 15, 184-93, 186-7, 15

Jaisalmer Fort 15, 184, 15Jaldhapara Wildlife

Sanctuary 495-6Jalgaon 790Jallianwala Bagh 213

massacre 217Jama Masjid (Ahmedabad)

693Jama Masjid (Delhi) 66-7,

16, 1168Jama Masjid (Fatehpur

Sikri) 371, 629Jama Masjid (Mandu) 667Jammu (city) 278-81, 279Jammu & Kashmir (state)

51, 225-81, 226-7accommodation 225climate 225festivals & events 228food 225highlights 226-7travel seasons 225

Jamnagar 720-3, 721Janki Chatti 433Japanese B encephalitis

1209Jari 302-3jeep safaris

Betla (Palamau) National Park 533-4

Jaldhapara Wildlife Sanctuary 495

Leh 233Spiti 345

jewellery 1152-3

Jhansi 403Jharkhand 52, 516-18,

531-4, 517accommodation 516climate 516festivals & events 518food 516highlights 517

Jhunjhunu 171-2Jodhpur 174-83, 176-7jodhpurs 181Jog Falls 892Jorhat 569Joshimath 437-8Junagadh 716-19, 717

KK3 route 280Kaba Gandhi No Delo 720kabaddi 1132Kachchh (Kutch) 724-33Kakkabe 883Kalakshetra Foundation

1010kalarippayat 986-7, 990Kalga 305Kalimpong 509-15, 510Kalka-Shimla Railway 291Kalpa 295-6Kalpetta 995Kama Sutra 15, 638, 884Kamakshi 1031Kanchipuram 1030-2, 1031Kanger Valley National

Park 685Kangra 331-2Kanha Tiger Reserve 676-8Kannur 998-1000Kanyakumari (Cape Co-

morin) 1065-8, 1066Kapurthala 223Karaikkudi 1057Kargil 260-2Karla Caves 799Karnataka 53, 851-910,


Karsha 265Kasar Devi 448-9Kashmir, see Jammu &

KashmirKashmir conflict 1123Kasol 304-5

Kathakali 972, 981, 986, 987, 990

Katra 281Kausani 450kayaking

Alappuzha (Alleppey) 961

Leh 232-3Palolem 846Rishikesh 417

Kaza 345-6Kaziranga National Park

567-8Kedarnath 435-6Keoladeo National Park

126-9Kerala 13, 54, 941-1002,

942, 13accommodation 941boat trips 964-5climate 941festivals & events 943food 941highlights 942travel seasons 941

Keylong 280, 342-3khadi 1155, 1156Khajuraho 15, 635-45, 636,

15, 628, 638-9Khalsa College 213-14Khandagiri Caves 597-8Khangchendzonga Trek

556-7Kharsali 433Khecheopalri Lake 554Khejadali 183Khir Ganga 305Khoksar 341Khonoma 580Khotachiwadi 749Khuri 193-4Ki 346-7Kibber 347Kigwema 580Killar 280Kinnaur 292-7Kisama Heritage Village

580Kishtwar 280Kishtwar-Killar-Keylong

route 280Kochi (Cochin) 976-90,

977, 978, 980, 984accommodation 981-5activities 980courses 981drinking & nightlife

985-6entertainment 986-7festivals & events 981

food 985-6medical services 987-8shopping 987sights 977-80tourist information 988tours 981travel around 989-90travel to/from 988-9

Kodagu (Coorg) 881-3Kodaikanal (Kodai) 1069-

73, 1070Kohima 579-81Kolhapur 806-8Kolkata (Calcutta) 51,

452-82, 453, 454-5, 458-9, 462, 466

accommodation 452, 468-72

climate 452drinking & nightlife 476-7festivals & events 468,

471food 452, 472-5highlights 453internet access 479itineraries 457medical services 479shopping 477-9sights 455-66tourist information 480tours 468travel seasons 452travel to/from 480-1travel within 481-2

Kollam (Quilon) 957-60, 958

Komic 347-8Konark 608-9Konkan Coast 793-7Konkan Railway 795Konyak Villages 582Koraput 612-13Korzok 254-5Kota 148-9Kotagiri 1078Kottayam 966-7Kovalam (Kerala) 949-53,

950Kovalam (Tamil Nadu)

1025Kozhikode (Calicut) 993-5,

994Krishna 1134Kullu 306-7Kullu Valley 300Kuluk 558Kumarakom 967-8Kumarakom Bird

Sanctuary 967-8Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

1235IN

DEX K

- MKumbakonam 1047-50,

1048Kumbhalgarh 163-4Kumbhalgarh Wildlife

Sanctuary 163Kumily 968Kunzum La 344Kurseong 496-7Kurukshetra (Thanesar)

223-4Kushinagar 394-5, 395kushti 93Kutch 724-33

LLachen 548-9Lachung 547-8Ladakh 12, 228-66, 12Lahaul 340-51lakes

Ashtamudi Lake 958Berijam Lake 1069Chandratal (Moon Lake)

344Chilika Lake 609-11Dal Lake 267-8Hem Kund 439-40Jait Sagar 145Khecheopalri Lake 554Lake Gangabal 276-7Lake Pichola 154Loktak Lake 584Naini Lake 443Nakki Lake 166Pangong Tso 253-4, 2Ranmal Lake 721-2Rewalsar Lake 298Saryolsar Lake 299Sukhna Lake 203Tso Moriri 254-5Tsomgo (Changu) Lake

547Ward’s Lake 590

Lakshadweep 1001Lamayuru 258-60Lamb’s Rock 1076language 18, 1107, 1148-50,

1213-23language courses 1187

Darjeeling 502Delhi 80McLeod Ganj 326Mussoorie 431Varanasi 385

Langza 347lassi 389Lauriya Nandangarh 523Lava 513leatherwork 1153

legal matters 1187-8Leh 229-44, 230, 234-5

accommodation 233-8activities 232-3drinking & nightlife 240food 238-40internet access 241medical services 241shopping 240-1sights 229-32tourist information 241travel to/from 242-3travel within 244

Leh-Manali route 249leopards

Chinnar Wildlife Sanctuary 976

Mt Abu Wildlife Sanctuary 166

LGBTI travellers 763, 1188Lhalung 350libraries

Institut Français de Pondichéry 1039

Nilgiri Library 1079lighthouses

Alleppey Lighthouse 961Thangassery Lighthouse

958Vizhinjam Lighthouse

949Likir 256Lingaraj Mandir 596lions

Gir National Park & Wild-life Sanctuary 714

Lion Safari Park 948literature 1162, see also

booksLittle Andaman 1103-4Little Rann of Kachchh

732-3Loktak Lake 584Lonar Meteorite Crater 783Lonavla 798-9Long Island 1102Losar 344Lothal 699-700Lucknow 397-402, 398lungi 1127

MMachail 281Madhya Pradesh 52, 621-

85, 622accommodation 621climate 621festivals & events 623food 621

highlights 622travel seasons 621

Madhav National Park 626Madikeri (also known as

Mercara) 881-2Madras, see ChennaiMadras High Court 1008-9Madurai 1059-64, 1060magazines 1187Mahabaleshwar 804Mahabalipuram, see

MamallapuramMahabharata 960, 1135Mahabodhi Temple 525Maharashtra 53, 772-808,


Mahé 995Maheshwar 670-2Majnu-ka-Tilla 85Majuli Island 569-70Malabar 943Malana 303-4malaria 1208-9Malayalis 943Malpe 892Malvan 795-7Mamallapuram (Mahabali-

puram) 1025-30, 1027Mamallapuram Hill 1028Man 254Manali 309-17, 310, 314Mananthavadi 995Mana Village 436Manas National Park 572Mandarmani 487Mandawa 172-4Mandi 297-8Mandrem 837-8Mandu 665-70, 668Mandvi 731-2Mangalajodi 610Mangaluru (Mangalore)

885-8, 886Manikaran 305-6Manipur 583-4maps 1188Mapusa 821-3Marble Rocks 673Marine National Park 723-4Margao 840-2markets & bazaars 22,

1151-8Amritsar 218

Anjuna 832Arpora 828Baga 828Bengaluru (Bangalore)

857Central Market 579-80Connemara Market 947Delhi 93, 94, 94-5, 95, 96Hyderabad 926Indore 661Jaipur 121Khwairamband Bazaar

583Kolkata (Calcutta)

457, 461Kochi (Cochin) 979Koraput 612, 613, 614Mandu 669Mattancherry 979Mumbai (Bombay) 766Mysuru (Mysore) 868Pushkar 141Rayagada 615Saturday Street Market

(Aizud) 585SMSM Institute 947

Markha Valley 248-50massages 40-2Matha Amrithanandamayi

Mission 960Matheran 797-8Matho 245Mathura 409-10, 409Matrimandir 1045mausoleums, see tombs,

shrines & mausoleumsMayabunder 1103Mayapur 490-1McLeod Ganj 320-9, 322measures 1187Mechuka 577media 1187medical services 1208meditation 40

Bodhgaya 527Chennai (Madras) 1011Delhi 80Dharamkot 331Eluru 934Goa 811Hyderabad 920Igatpuri 779Jaipur 113Leh 232Nagarjunakonda 934Pune 802Rishikesh 415Sri Ramana Ashram

1035

1236

IND

EX M- M

meditation continuedSri Seshadri Swamigal

Ashram 1035Meenakshi Amman Temple

1059-60, 1165, 1164-5Meghalaya 588-92mehndi 1161Mehrangarh 17, 175-6, 17Melaghar 588Melukote (Melkote) 878Mettupalayam 1076misal pav 777Mizoram 584-6mobile phones 18, 1191-2Modhera 700Mon 582-3monasteries

Bhutia Busty Gompa 499Choskhor temple

complex 257Drikung Kagyu Gompa

298Druk Sangak Choling

Gompa 501Dubdi Gompa 555Durpin Gompa 509Dzongsar Khyentse

Chökyi Lodrö Institute 334

Enchey Gompa 539Guru Ghantal Gompa

342Guru Sakya Gompa 501Hemis Gompa 247-8Kardang Gompa 342Mane Choekhorling

Gompa 550Matho 245Mindrolling Monastery

426Ngadak Gompa 549Old Ralang Gompa 550Palchen Choeling

Monastery 550Pemayangtse Gompa 552Resum Gompa 558Rumtek Gompa 545-6Samten Choling Gompa

501Sanchi 654Shashur Gompa 342Sherabling Monastery

334Spituk Gompa 231Tabo Gompa 350Tangyud Gompa 347

Tashiding Gompa 557Tawang Gompa 578Than 730Tharpa Choling Gompa

510Thekchhok Gompa 248Thiksey Gompa 245-7Tso-Pema Ogyen Heruka

Nyingmapa Gompa 298

Ugyen Sangnak Choling Gompa 349

Urgeyling Gompa 578Von Ngari Monastery

309Yiga Choling Gompa 501Yungdrung Gompa 258-9Yungdrung Kundrakling

550money 18, 19, 1188-90moneychangers 1189monuments & statues

Agrasen ki Baoli 69Arjuna’s Penance 1027Bibi-qa-Maqbara 779Buddha Park 550Buddha Statue on

Hussain Sagar 920Charminar 914Chausath Yogini 602-3Coronation Durbar

Site 67Dhauli 603Gandhi Memorial 1067Gateway of India 738-9Golgumbaz 907Ibrahim Rouza 908Kamaraj Memorial 1067Raj Ghat 67Royal Gaitor 112Sanchi 651, 653Thiruvalluvar Statue

1067Vivekananda Memorial

1066-7Morjim 836-7Morni Hills 211mosques

Ahmed Shah’s Mosque 693

Dilawar Khan’s Mosque 667

Fatehpuri Masjid 61-6Gaur 491Haji Ali Dargah 745Jama Masjid (Agra) 361Jama Masjid (Ah-

medabad) 693Jama Masjid (Delhi) 66-7,

16, 1168

Jama Masjid (Fatehpur Sikri) 371

Jama Masjid (Mandu) 667

Jama Masjid (Srinagar) 271

Katra Masjid 409Khanqah Shah-i-Hama-

dan 270Mecca Masjid 914Nakhoda Mosque 461Rani Sipri’s Mosque 693Rani-na-Hazira 693Siddi Sayid’s Mosque

693Sidi Bashir Mosque 693Sunehri Masjid 61Taj-ul-Masjid 647

Mother Teresa 465Mother Teresa’s Mother-

house 457Motihari 523motorcycle travel 1202-4

hire 1202-3Kochi (Cochin) 981purchase 1203tours 1203-4

mountain bikingAlmora 447Manali 312Sikkim 537Spiti 345

mountain railwaysDarjeeling Himalayan

Railway 507Kangra Valley Toy Train

332Kalka–Shimla Railway

291Nilgiri Mountain Railway

1084, 16mountaineering

Darjeeling 501-2Ladakh 232Manali 309, 312Spiti 345Uttarkashi 437

mountainsHimalayas 1174-5Mt Abu 165-9, 166Mt Arunachala 1035

Mt Abu 165-9, 166Mudumalai Tiger Reserve

1084-5Mulbekh 260Mumbai (Bombay) 13, 53,

734-71, 735, 738, 740-1, 746-7, 13

accommodation 734, 752-6

activities 749-51climate 734courses 751-2drinking & nightlife 761-4entertainment 764-5festivals & events 737food 734, 756-61highlights 735shopping 765-7sights 737-49spas 751tourist information 767-8tours 752travel seasons 734travel to/from 768-70travel within 770-1walking tours 753, 753

mundu 1127Munnar 972-6, 973, 2Munsyari 451Murshidabad 491-2Murudeshwar 894Murud-Janjira 793-4museums, see also

galleriesAnand Bhavan 405Anokhi Museum of Hand

Printing 126Anthropological Museum

1090Arakkal Museum 998Archaeological Museum

(Fatehpur Sikri) 374-5Archaeological Museum

(Khajuraho) 641Archaeological Museum

(Mathura) 410Archaeological Museum

(Sanchi) 654Archaeological Museum

(Sarnath) 392Archaeology Museum

(Thrissur) 991Assam State Museum

561Bagore-ki-Haveli 155Baroda Museum &

Picture Gallery 701Bhuri Singh Museum 337Calico Museum of

Textiles 689Car Museum 888Central Asian Museum

(Leh) 229Central Museum (Jaipur)

111Central Tibetan Secre-

tariat 323Chandigarh Architecture

Museum 206Chhatrapati Shivaji


1237IN

DEX M

- NMaharaj Vastu Sangra-halaya 742-3

Chitrali Museum 945City Palace (Kota) 148City Palace Museum

(Udaipur) 153Crafts Museum 74Don Bosco Museum of

Indigenous Cultures 589-90

Desert Cultural Centre & Museum 188

Dr Bhau Daji Lad Mumbai City Museum 744-5

Dr Ramnath A Podar Haveli Museum 169

Folk Art Museum 726Forest Research Institute

Museum 426Fort Museum 1009Gandhi Memorial

Museum 1061Gandhi Smriti 71Goa Chitra 843-4Goa State Museum 815Government Museum

(Bengaluru) 857Government Museum

(Chennai) 1005, 1008-9

Government Museum (Udaipur) 153-4

HAL Aerospace Museum & Heritage Centre 858

Hall of Fame 231HEH The Nizam’s

Museum 914Himachal State Museum

287-8Himalayan Mountaineer-

ing Institute 500Indian Museum 456Indira Gandhi Memorial

Museum 71Indo-Portuguese

Museum 977-8International Roerich

Memorial Trust 307-8Jageshwar Archaeologi-

cal Museum 449Jai Vilas Palace & Scin-

dia Museum 626Janapada Loka Folk Arts

Museum 867Jayalakshmi Vilas Man-

sion Museum Complex 868-9

Joshi’s Museum of Min-iature Railway 801

Kachchh Museum 726Kerala Folklore Museum

980

Khalsa Heritage Complex 212

Krishnapuram Palace Museum 960

Lahaul-Spiti Tribal Museum 342

Le Corbusier Centre 203-4

Lepcha Heritage Museum 511

Living & Learning Design Centre (LLDC) Crafts Museum 730

Lokayatan Folk Museum 690

Maharaja Sansar Chand Museum 332

Marble Palace 463Maritime Museum 979Mattancherry Palace 980Mehrangarh Museum

175-6Men-Tsee-Khang

Museum 324Morarka Haveli Museum

169Museo Camera 102Museum of Christian

Art 821Museum of Habitat 938Museum of History &

Heritage 943-4Museum of Kangra

Art 319Museum of Tribal Arts &

Artefacts 597Nagarjunakonda

Museum 934Namgyal Institute of

Tibetology 539Napier Museum 943National Bal Bhavan 67National Gandhi Mu-

seum 67National Museum

(Delhi) 71National Rail Museum 74National Research Cen-

tre on Camels 200Natural History Museum

(Chandigarh) 206Naulakha Museum 719NC Mehta Gallery 691Nehru Memorial Mu-

seum 71-2Netaji Bhawan 458-9Odisha State Maritime

Museum 616Patan Patola Heritage

Museum 700Prabhas Patan Museum

713

Prachina Cultural Centre & Museum 195

Puducherry Museum 1039

Pudukkottai Museum 1058

Puthe Maliga Palace Museum 944-5

Rail Museum 868Railway Museum 1055Raja Dinkar Kelkar

Museum 801Ramkatha Museum 403Rani Durgawati Museum

674Rashtrapati Bhavan

Museum 71Ratnagiri Museum 617RKK Memorial Museum

961Rukmini Devi Museum

1010Sacred Heart Natural

Science Museum 1069Salar Jung Museum 914Sanskriti Museums 78-9Sea Shell Museum 710Shankar’s International

Dolls Museum 67Sheesh Mahal 220Shree Chhatrapati Shahu

Museum 806SRC Museum of Indology

111Sri Krishna Museum 223Sri Pratap Singh

Museum 272State Academy of Tribal

Culture 586State Museum (Bhopal)

647State Museum

(Hyderabad) 915Submarine Museum 935Sudha Cars Museum 917Sulabh International

Museum of Toilets 78Sullivan Memorial 1078Survey of India Museum

426Swami Vivekananda

Wandering Monk Exhibition 1067

Tagore’s House 464Taj Museum 358Tea Museum 973Temple Art Museum

1060-1Thar Heritage Museum

188Tibet Museum 321Toilet Garden 693

Tribal Heritage Museum 451

Tribal Museum 646-7Uttarayan Complex 489Vechaar Utensil Museum

692Vintage & Classic Car

Collection 156Vivekananda House 1009Wayanad Heritage

Museum 995music 1159-60Mussoorie 429-32, 430Mysuru (Mysore) 867-

77, 872Mysuru Palace 868, 870-1

NNabadwip 490-1Nagaland 579-83Nagarhole National Park

880Nagarjunakonda 934-5Naggar 307-9Nagpur 790-2Nainital 443-6, 444-5Nako 296-7Nakthan 305Nalanda 531Naldehra 291-2Nalsarovar Bird Sanctuary

699Namchi 549-50Namdapha National Park

574Nameri National Park 567Namgyal Institute of

Tibetology 539Naranag 276-7Nasik 774-7, 775national parks, reserves

& wildlife sanctuaries 1172, 1173

Anamalai Tiger Reserve 1075

Arunachala Animal Sanctuary 1036

Bandhavgarh Tiger Reserve 678-80

Bandipur National Park 878-80

Betla (Palamau) National Park 533-4

Bhitarkanika Wildlife Sanctuary 618-20

Biligiri Ranganna Temple Wildlife Sanctuary 879

Blackbuck National Park 706

Chinnar Wildlife Sanctuary 976

1238

IND

EX N- P

national parks, reserves & wildlife sanctuaries continued

Corbett Tiger Reserve 440-3

Dandeli 904Daroji Sloth Bear

Sanctuary 902Eravikulam National

Park 976Gir National Park &

Wildlife Sanctuary 713-15

Govind Wildlife Sanctu-ary & National Park 434

Great Himalayan Na-tional Park 299, 301

Hemis National Park 248Jaldhapara Wildlife

Sanctuary 495-6Kanger Valley National

Park 685Kanha Tiger Reserve

676-8Kaziranga National Park

567-8Keoladeo National Park

126-9Khijadiya Bird

Sanctuary 723Kumarakom Bird

Sanctuary 967-8Kumbhalgarh Wildlife

Sanctuary 163Lion Safari Park 948Madhav National Park

626Malvan Marine Sanctu-

ary 796Manas National Park 572Marine National Park

723-4Mt Abu Wildlife

Sanctuary 166Mudumalai Tiger Reserve

1084-5Muthanga 995Nagarhole National

Park 880Nalsarovar Bird

Sanctuary 699Namdapha National

Park 574Nameri National Park

567Neyyar Wildlife

Sanctuary 948

Panna Tiger Reserve 645Parambikulam Tiger

Reserve 972Pench Tiger Reserve

680-1Periyar Wildlife

Sanctuary 968, 970Pobitora National Park

566Rajaji Tiger Reserve

424-5Ranganathittu Bird

Sanctuary 878Ranthambhore National

Park 141-3Sajjan Garh Wildlife

Sanctuary 156Sanjay Gandhi National

Park 743Sariska Tiger Reserve &

National Park 131-3Satkosia Tiger

Sanctuary 603Similipal National Park

619Singalila National Park

507Sultanpur Bird

Sanctuary 224Sultanpur National

Park 102Sunderbans Tiger

Reserve 486-7Tadoba-Andhari Tiger

Reserve 792Thattekkad Bird

Sanctuary 975Tholpetty 995Tiger Cave 1024Valley of Flowers

National Park 439Wayanad Wildlife

Sanctuary 995White Desert 730Wild Ass Sanctuary 732

Navratri 24, 27, 694Nawalgarh 169-71Neermahal 588Neil Island 1099-10Nepal

border crossings 390, 391, 396, 447, 494, 524, 1197, 1198

travel to/from 1197, 1198New Jalpaiguri 492-5newspapers 1187Ney 256Nilgiri Hills 1079Nilgiri Mountain Railway

1084, 16Nilgiris 1077Nimmu 255-6

Norbulingka Institute 333Northeast States 52, 559-

92, 560accommodation 559climate 559festivals & events 561food 559highlights 560travel seasons 559

North Paravur 991Nubra Valley 250-3nurseries 512

Oobservatories

Jantar Mantar (Delhi) 69Jantar Mantar (Jaipur)

109-11Observatory Hill 499Odisha 52, 593-620, 594


Old Goa 819-21, 820Om 1138Omkareshwar 672-3Onam 24, 26Ooty (Udhagamandalam)

1078-84, 1080opening hours 19, 1190Orchha 630-5, 632Orissa, see OdishaOsho 802Osian 183-4

Ppaan 1143Pachmarhi 655-9, 656Padum 263, 21Pahalgam 275painting 1154, 1160-2Pakistan

border crossings 183, 220-1, 1197

travel to/from 1197palaces 20

Aga Khan Palace 801Aina Mahal 725-6Amar Mahal 278Bangalore Palace 857Bawali 490Baz Bahadur’s Palace

667Bundi Palace 145Chitrasala 145

Chowmahalla Palace 914City Palace (Alwar)

129-30City Palace (Jaipur)

105-9City Palace (Kota) 148City Palace (Udaipur)

153Daria Daulat Bagh 877Fatehpur Sikri 371-4,

373-4, 629Fort Palace 184-5Gauhar Mahal 647Hazarduari 491-2Hindola Mahal 666-7Itachuna 490Jaganmohan Palace 868Jahaz Mahal 666Jai Vilas Palace 626Jal Mahal 112Krishnapuram Palace

Museum 960Lal Bagh Palace 659Laxmi Vilas Palace 701Leh Palace 229Maheshwar Palace 671Mattancherry Palace

979-80Mubarak Mandi 278Mysuru Palace 868,

870-1Naropa Royal Palace 245Padam Palace 292Padmanabhapuram

Palace 951, 1069Prag Mahal 726Raj Mahal 631Rajwada 659Royal Palace 1050-2Sajjan Garh 155-6Sharad Baug Palace 726Stok 244Suraj Mahl’s Palace 130Tirumalai Nayak Palace

1061Ujjayanta Palace 586Umaid Bhawan Palace

178Vijay Vilas Palace 731-2

Palampet 930-1Palampur 333-4Palitana 706-8palloo 1127Palolem 846-9, 847, 14,

890Panaji (Panjim) 813-19,

814Panamik 253Pandua 491Pangi Valley 343-4


1239IN

DEX P

- SPangong Tso 253-4, 2Panna Tiger Reserve 645paragliding

Arambol 838Bir 334Kalimpong 511-12Lonavla 798Manali 312Varkala 955

parasailing 487Parasnath Hill 532Paravati Valley 300parks & gardens

Badamvaer 272Botanical Gardens

(Kolkata) 465Botanical Gardens

(Ooty) 1079Bougainvillea Garden

206Bryant Park 1069Chitralekha Udyan 566Floating Gardens & Lake

Villages 268Flower Exhibition Centre

539Horticultural Gardens

466Khusru Bagh 405Lloyd Botanical Gardens

501Lodi Gardens 70Maidan 457-8Mananchira Square 993Mehtab Bagh 358Mughal Gardens (Delhi)

71Mughal Gardens

(Srinagar) 269Nek Chand Rock Garden

203, 207Pinjore Gardens 211Rabindra Sarovar 464-5Ram Bagh 213Rao Jodha Desert Rock

Park 176-7Sim’s Park 1076Theosophical Society

1010Parsis 756Partition 1122-4Parvati Valley 302-6Pasighat 576passports 1193-4, 1195Patan 700Pathankot 221Patiala 219-20Patna 518-22, 520Patnem 849-50Pattadakal 906

Pattan Valley 343-4Pavagadh 703-4Payyanur 1001pehlwari 93Pelling 552-4, 553Pemako 577Pench Tiger Reserve 680-1Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary

968, 970permits

Corbett Tiger Reserve 441

Kinnaur 293Ladakh 252Spiti 345

phonecards 1192-3photography 1179Phuktal 266Phyang 255pilgrimage 1128-9Pin Valley 348-9Pithoragarh 451planetariums 458planning, see also individ-

ual regionsbudgeting 19calendar of events 24-8children, travel with 47-9India basics 18-19India’s regions 50-4internet resources 19itineraries 29-33train travel 34-5travel seasons 18, 24-8trekking 36-7volunteering 43-6

plants 1172-3Poa Mecca 565-6Pobitora National Park 566police 1188politics 1106-8

Dravidian 1009Tamil Tigers 1009

pollution 1174, 1175, 1210Pondicherry, see

Puducherrypolo 1132Poovar 953population 1107, 1176Port Blair 1090-3, 1091postal services 1190Pratapgad Fort 807public holidays 1190-1Puducherry (Pondicherry)

17, 1037-44, 1038Pune 799-806, 800Punjab 50, 201-23, 202

accommodation 201climate 201

festivals & events 203food 201highlights 202travel seasons 201

Puri 604-8, 606Pushkar 136-41, 137Pushkar Camel Fair 138Pusphagiri Ruins 617-18

QQuilon, see Kollam

Rrabies 1209Rabongla 550-1radio 1187rafting

Leh 232-3Manali 312-13Nubra Valley 250Orchha 632Rishikesh 417

Raghurajpur 604Raipur 681-2Rajaji Tiger Reserve 424-5Rajasthan 50, 104-200,

106-7accommodation 104climate 104festivals & events 112highlights 106-7travel seasons 104

Rajgir 529-31Rajkot 720Ram Raja Temple 631Ramayana 1135Rambha 611Rameswaram 1064-5Rampur 292-3Ramtek 792Ranakpur 164-5Ranchi 531-3Rangat 1100-2Rangdum 263rangolis 1128Rani Abbakka 889Ranthambhore National

Park 141-3Ravangla (Rabongla) 550-1Raxaul 523-4Rayagada 615-16Red Fort 60-1, 62-3, 62-3Rekong Peo 295religion 1107, 1126-7,

1133-40Buddhism 932, 1138-9Christianity 1139-14etiquette 1137

Hinduism 1133-6Islam 1136-7Jainism 1139Sikhism 1137-8tribal religions 1140Zoroastrianism 1140

Residency 397rest houses 1183Rewalsar Lake 298rhinoceros, one-horned

567, 1169rice 1141Rinchenpong 558Rishikesh 414-21, 416rock climbing

Hampi 898Manali 309

Rohtang La 341Ross Island 1092roti 1141Roy, Arundhati 967Royal Enclave 666-7ruins 20-1, see also archae-

ological sitesAdhai-din-ka-Jhonpra

135Bavikonda 937Bhangarh 132Dhamekh Stupa & Mon-

astery Ruins 392Feroz Shah Kotla 67Khwaja Mahmud Gawan

Madrasa 910Mahanavami-diiba 897Mehrauli Archaeological

Park 101Pusphagiri Ruins 617-18Qutb Minar Complex 101Rabdentse 552Talatal Ghar 570-1Thotlakonda 937Zenana Enclosure 897

Rumbak 250Rumtek 545-6

SSabarimala 968Sabarmati Ashram 690safaris 13


Bandipur National Park 878-9

Gir National Park & Wildlife Sanctuary 714-15

Jabalpur 674Kanha Tiger Reserve 676Osian 184

1240

IND

EX S- T

safaris continuedPachmarhi 657-8Pench Tiger

Reserve 680safety 582, 1178-9, 1191

animals 1171bhang lassi 1191Delhi 96-7drinking water 1178, 1211drugs 1178food 1178, 1210hitching 1201internet resources 1192Kashmir 267Kullu Valley 303marijuana 302Parvati Valley 303road 1203scams 1178-9solo travellers 1181trekking 37Varanasi 383women travellers 1180-1

Sagar Island 486Sakti 248Salawas 183salwar kameez 1127Sam Sand Dunes 193Sanchi 650-5, 652, 1168Sangam 404-5Sangla 294Sangla Valley 294-5Sankaram 937Sarahan 293-4saris 1128, 1155-6Sariska Tiger Reserve &

National Park 131-3Sarnath 392-3, 392Saspol 257Satapada 609-10Satkosia Tiger Sanctuary

603satras 570Saurashtra 704-24scams 368, 383, 390,

1178-9Senji 1037Serampore 487Sevagram 792-3Sham 256-7Shanti Stupa 230, 12Shantimalai Handicrafts

Development Society 1037

Shantiniketan 488-90

Shargol 260Shatrunjaya 707shawls 307, 1155Shekhawati 169-74, 170Shey 245Shillong 588-91, 599Shimla 283-91, 286-7Shiva 1134Shivneri 806shopping 1151-8, see

also markets & bazaarsbooks 1156carpets 1151-2haggling 1152jewellery 1152-3paintings 1154saris 1155-6shawls 1155woodcarving 1157

shrines, see tombs, shrines & mausoleums

Sikh templesBaba Atal Tower 213Central Gurdwara 278Golden Temple 17, 212-13,

17, 1166-7Gurdwara Bangla Sahib

75-6Guru Gobind Singh

Gurdwara 298Guru Nanak Jhira Sahib

910Kesgarh Sahib 212Sisganj Gurdwara 61Sri Guru Nanak Ji

Gurdwara 305Sikhism 1137-8Sikkim 52, 535-58, 536


Siliguri 492-5Similipal National Park 619Singalila National Park 507Sinhagad 806Sirpur 682-3Sivasagar 570-1skiing

Gulmarg 276, 28Manali 309, 313

sloth bears 371, 902slums 744smoking 1187snorkelling

Diglipur 1102, 1103Havelock Island 1095-7Long Island 1102

Neil Island 1099Wandoor 1094

snowboardingGulmarg 276, 28Manali 309, 313

snow leopards 245Solang Nullah 318-19solo travellers 1181Somnath 713Somnathpur 878Sonamarg 277-8spa treatments 40-2, 489spice farms 821, 969spices 1141, 1157Spiti 340-1, 344-51sports 1131-2Sravanabelagola 885Sree Vallabha Temple 968Sri Kalahasti 940Sri Ramakrishna Math 1010Srinagar 267-75, 268Srirangapatna (Srirangapa-

tnam) 877-8St Mary’s Island 892St Thomas’ Pole 1010statues, see monuments &

statuesstep-wells

Adalaj Vav 699Rani-ki-Vav 700

Stok 244-5street food 757stupas, see also Buddhist

templesAmaravathi 933Dhamekh Stupa & Mon-

astery Ruins 392Gomang Stupa 230Great Stupa 650Kesariya Stupa 523Ramabhar Stupa 394Sanchi 653Shanti Stupa 230, 12Vishwa Shanti Stupa 529

Sullivan, John 1078Sultanbatheri 995Sultanpur National Park 102Sun Temple 608-9Sumur 253Sunauli 395-7Sunderbans Tiger Reserve

486-7surfing 1025

Agonda 845Arambol (Harmal) 839Covelong Point 1025Gokarna 894Kovalam 949Little Andaman 1104

Mamallapuram (Mahaba-lipuram) 1027

Mulki 887Puducherry (Pondi-

cherry) 1040Varkala 955

Suru Valley 262-3synagogues

Chennamangalam 991Keneseth Eliyahoo

Synagogue 743Pardesi Synagogue 980

TTabo 350-1Tadoba-Andhari Tiger

Reserve 792Taj Mahal 11, 354-8, 359,

367, 368, 7, 10-1, 356-7Taj Mahal Palace, Mumbai

737-8Takthog 248Tamil language 1217-18Tamil Nadu 54, 1002-85,

1003accommodation 1002climate 1002festivals & events 1004highlights 1003history 1004-5temples 1002, 1034travel seasons 1002

Tandi 341-2Tanjore 1050-3, 1051Tashiding 557-8Tashigang 347Tawang Valley 578-9taxis 1201-2tea 504tea estates 14

Ambootia Tea Estate 496Connemara Tea Factory

968-9Darjeeling 504Happy Valley Tea Estate

501Highfield Tea Estate 1076Kausani Tea Estate 450Makaibari 496Temi Tea Garden 551-2

Tegar 253Telangana 53, 911-31, 912


telephone services 18, 1191-3


1241IN

DEX T- U

temples 1164-8, see also Buddhist temples, Hindu temples, Jain temples, Sikh temples

tempos 1201textiles 1155-7Tezpur 566-7Thanesar 223-4Thanggu 548Thanjavur (Tanjore) 1050-

3, 1051Tharangambadi 1047Thattekkad Bird Sanctu-

ary 975theft 1179theyyam 999Thiksey 245-7Thiruvananthapuram

(Trivandrum) 941, 943-8, 944

Thoh Tim 590Thrissur (Trichur) 991-3,

992Thukye (Tso Kar) 255Tibet

border crossings 538travel to/from 1196

Tibetan arts 333Tibetan exiles 325Tibetan medicine 326tiffin-wallahs 759tigers 1169, 1170

Anamalai Tiger Reserve 1075

Corbett Tiger Reserve 440-3


Kanha Tiger Reserve 676-8

Mudumalai Tiger Reserve 1084-5

Panna Tiger Reserve 645Parambikulam Tiger

Reserve 972Pench Tiger Reserve

680-1Rajaji Tiger Reserve

424-5Ranthambhore National

Park 142Sariska Tiger Reserve &

National Park 131-3Satkosia Tiger

Sanctuary 603Sunderbans Tiger

Reserve 486-7Tadoba-Andhari Tiger

Reserve 792Tiger Cave 1024

time 18, 1193

Timishgan 256-7tipping 1189Tirthan Valley 299-301, 300Tiruchirappalli, see TrichyTirumala 938-40Tirupati 938-40Tiruvannamalai 1034-7toilets 1193tombs, shrines & mauso-

leumsAkbar’s Mausoleum 360Badshah Tomb 270-1Bahu Begum Ka

Maqbara 402Bara Imambara 397Chhatris 631Chini-ka-Rauza 361Chota Imambara 397-8Dargah of Khwaja Muin-

ud-din Chishti 133-4Ellangudipatti 1058Gumbaz 877Hazrat Nizam-ud-din

Dargah 69-70Hoshang Shah’s Tomb

667Humayun’s Tomb 69Itimad-ud-Daulah 360-1Khan-i-Khanan’s

Tomb 75Mahabat Maqbara 717Mausoleum of Ahmed

Shah 693Moula Ali Dargah 919-20Naqshband Sahib 271-2Paigah Tombs 919Qutb Shahi Tombs 919Ram Rai Darbar 426Safdarjang’s Tomb 75Sheikh Chehli’s Tomb

223Shiva Shrine 1024Taj Mahal 11, 354-8, 359,

367, 368, 7, 10-11, 356-7

Tiger Cave 1024Vaishno Devi Shrine 281Vazir’s Mausoleum

717-18Venugopal Shrine 1053

tourist information 1193tours

motorcycle 1203-4Northeast 564

touts 1179train travel 16, 34-5, 1204-

5, see also mountain railways

Araku Valley 938booking 34-5

classes 34Darjeeling Himalayan

Railway 507Konkan Railway 795toy trains 332, 495, 507

transportlanguage 1216, 1218

Travancore 943travel to/from India 1195-7travel within India

1197-205trekking 36-7

Almora 447Anmu to Phuktal 266Bhagsu 330Chamba Valley 338,

339-40Chandrisilla Peak 439Chitkul 294Darjeeling 501Dehra Dun 426Dharamkot 330-1Gaumukh Glacier Trek

433-4Great Himalayan

National Park 299Hamta Pass 318Har-ki-Dun Valley Trek

434Homestay Trail 348Indrahar La 330Joshimath 437-8Kalimpong 512, 513Khangchendzonga Trek

556-7Kodaikanal (Kodai) 1070,

1072Kuari Pass Trek 434-5Ladakh 258-9, 264Lake Gangabal 276-7Leh 233Manali 309, 313Markha Valley 248-50McLeod Ganj 324-5Milam Glacier Trek 435Mt Abu 167Munnar 973Mussoorie 430-1Naggar 308Ooty (Udhagamandalam)

1080Palampur 333Palolem 846Parasnath Hill 532Pindari Glacier Trek 435Pin-Parvati 304Ravangla

(Rabongla) 551Rishikesh 417-18Sham 256-7

Shimla 288Singalila Ridge Trek

507-9Spiti 345Tungnath Mandir 439Wayanad region 995-6West Bengal 485Yuksom 555Zanskar 258-9,

263, 264Zanskar to Darcha 266

Trichur, see ThrissurTrichy (Tiruchirappalli)

1053-7, 1054, 1056Trimbak 779Tripura 586-8Trivandrum, see

ThiruvananthapuramTso Kar 255Tso Moriri 254-5Tsomgo (Changu)

Lake 547Tsopta 548Tsuglagkhang Complex

321, 323tuberculosis 1209turtles 618, 1102Turtuk 252-3Tuting 577TV 1187typhoid 1209

UUdaigiri Caves 655Udaipur (Rajasthan) 152-

63, 154accommodation 157-9activities 156courses 156drinking & nightlife 160emergencies 161entertainment 160-1festivals & events 157food 159-60internet access 161medical services 161shopping 161sights 153-6tourist information 162tours 156-7travel to/from 162travel within 162-3

Udaipur (Tripura) 588Udayagiri Caves 597-8Udhagamandalam 1078-84,

1080Udupi 889-92Ujjain 663-5, 664-5Unakoti 588

1242

IND

EX U- Z

Uttar Pradesh 51, 376-411, 378-9


Uttarakhand 51, 412-51, 413accommodation 412climate 412, 414festivals & events 414food 412highlights 413travel seasons 412

Uttarkashi 437

Vvacations 1190-1vaccinations 1206, 1207Vadodara (Baroda) 701-3,

702Vagator 833-6, 834Vaishali 522-3Valley of Flowers National

Park 439-40Valparai 1075Varanasi 14, 377-91, 380,

384, 14accommodation 386-8drinking & nightlife 389entertainment 389food 388-9shopping 389-90sights 380-3tourist information 390tours 385-6travel to/from 390travel within 391

Varkala 953-7, 954, 891Vashisht 317-18, 310vegan travellers 1143vegetarian travellers 1143Vellore 1032-3Veraval 712Viceregal Lodge 287Victoria Memorial 455-6viewpoints

Doddabetta 1079-80Dolphin’s Nose 1076Lamb’s Rock 1076

Vijapura (Bijapur) 907-9, 908

Vijayawada 931-3

vikrams 1201Visakhapatnam 935-7visas 18, 1193-4Vishnu 1133-4Vishwanath Temple 380-1volunteering 43-6

Assagao 832-3Goa 843Hyderabad 920Keystone Foundation

1078Kolkata (Calcutta) 467Mapusa 822McLeod Ganj 325Puri 605Varanasi 383, 385

Vrindavan 410-11, 411

WWakha 260walking tours 1061-2

Ahmedabad (Amdavad) 694

Bengaluru (Bangalore) 858

Chennai (Madras) 1011Delhi 79-80Hyderabad 920Jaipur 114Kolkata (Calcutta) 468Mumbai (Bombay) 752,

753, 753Orchha 631-2Udaipur 157

Wandoor 1093-4Wankaner 719Warangal 930-1water, drinking 1178, 1211water sports 1064waterfalls

Chitrakote Falls 685Dudhsagar Falls 813Hampi Waterfalls 897Jog Falls 892Nohkalikai Falls 592Phamrong Falls 557Vasudhara Waterfall 436

Wayanad Region 995-8, 996

Wayanad Wildlife Sanctuary 995

weather 18, 24-8, see also individual regions

weights 1187West Bengal 52, 483-515,

484accommodation 483climate 483

festivals & events 485food 483highlights 484travel seasons 483

Western Ghats 1068-85whisky 867Wild Ass Sanctuary 732wildlife 13, 1169-17, see

also national parks, reserves & wildlife sanctuaries, individual species

books 1171endangered species 1171internet resources 1170volunteering 46

wine 778, 867, 1147women in India 1129-13women travellers 1180-1women’s health 1212woodcarving 1157World Heritage Sites

Ajanta 12, 787-90, 788, 12, 629

Anegundi 903Champaner 704Chhatrapati Shivaji

Terminus 739, 742Darjeeling Himalayan

Railway 507Elephanta Island 749Ellora 784-7, 785, 21Fatehpur Sikri 371-5,

373-4, 629Hampi 11, 842, 896-902,

898, 900, 11Jantar Mantar (Jaipur)

109-11Kalka–Shimla Railway 291Keoladeo National Park

126-9Khajuraho 15, 635-45,

636, 15, 628, 638-9Nilgiri Mountain Railway

1084, 16Pattadakal 906Pavagadh 703-4Sun Temple 608-9Sunderbans Tiger

Reserve 486-7Taj Mahal 11, 354-8, 359,

367, 368, 7, 10-11, 356-7

Valley of Flowers Na-tional Park 439-40

YYamunotri 433Yangthang 256

Yapola Valley 257-8yoga 23, 38-9, 42

Arambol (Harmal) 838Bengaluru (Bangalore)

858Chennai (Madras) 1011Delhi 80Dharamkot 331Goa 811, 833Jaipur 113Kalimpong 512Kolkata (Calcutta) 467Leh 232Lonavla 798Madurai 1061Mandrem 838McLeod Ganj 324Mumbai (Bombay) 749,

751-2Mysuru (Mysore) 874Puducherry (Pondi-

cherry) 1040, 1041Pushkar 138Rishikesh 415-16Udaipur 156Varanasi 383, 385Varkala 955

Yuksom 554-6Yumthang Valley 548

ZZamorin dynasty 993Zangla 265Zanskar 263-7ziplines 178Ziro Valley 574-5zoos

Alipore Zoo 466Himalayan Zoological

Park 539Madras Crocodile Bank

1024Mysuru Zoo 869Nandankanan Zoological

Park 603National Zoological

Gardens 74-5Padmaja Naidu Him-

alayan Zoological Park 500

Zoological Gardens (Thiruvananthpuram) 943

Zoroastrianism 1140


1243N

OTES

1244

NO

TES

12451245

Walking Tour detourWalking Tour

Path/Walking Trail

BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin

Sento Hot Baths/Onsen

ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight

DivingBodysurfing

Sleeping

Eating

Entertainment

Shopping

Drinking & NightlifeCafe

BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information

AirportBorder crossingBus

CyclingFerry

Underground station

MonorailParking

Metro station

Petrol stationSubway stationTaxiTrain station/RailwayTram

Other Transport

LighthouseHut/ShelterBeach

LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall

River, CreekIntermittent River

Swamp/Mangrove

Reef

Canal

Water

Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake

Glacier

Mudflat

Beach/Desert

Airport/Runway

Cemetery (Christian)

Cemetery (Other)

Park/Forest

Sportsground

Sight (Building)

International

DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall

Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

State/Province

Camping

Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour

SkiingSnorkellingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity

LaneTertiary

TollwayFreewayPrimary

StepsPlaza/Mall

Pedestrian overpass

Secondary

Unsealed roadRoad under construction

Tunnel

Cable car/Funicular

Sights

Activities,Courses & Tours

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Information Routes

Boundaries

Hydrography

Areas

Geographic

Population

Transport

Note: Not all symbols displayed aboveappear on the maps in this book

Map Legend


Anna KaminskiOdisha, Gujarat For as long as Anna has been travelling in India, she’s been en-chanted and exasperated by the country in equal measure, and never ever bored. This trip was no exception. Cons? The demonetisation crisis. Pros? Exploring two vastly different corners of the country. Highlights included the ancient ar-chitecture of Ahmedabad, spending time in traditional villages in Odisha’s tribal country, lion-spotting in Sasan Gir National Park and witnessing first-hand the

centuries-old craft kept alive in the villages of Kachchh.

Bradley MayhewBihar & Jharkhand, West Bengal & Darjeeling Bradley has been writing guide-books for 20 years now. He started travelling while studying Chinese at Oxford University, and has since focused his expertise on China, Tibet, the Himalaya and Central Asia. He is the co-author of Lonely Planet guides to Tibet, Nepal, Trekking in the Nepal Himalaya, Bhutan, Central Asia and many others. Bradley has also fronted two TV series for Arte and SWR, one retracing the route of Marco Polo via

Turkey, Iran, Afghanistan, Central Asia and China, and the other trekking Europe’s ten most scenic long-distance trails.

Iain StewartKarnataka, Telangana & Andhra Pradesh Iain’s trained as a journalist and worked as reporter and restaurant critic in London in the 1990s. He started writing guide-books in 1997 and has penned more than 60 titles for destinations as diverse as Ibiza and Cambodia. For Lonely Planet, Iain’s worked on books including Mexico, Indonesia, Croatia, Vietnam, India, Sri Lanka and Central America. Other passions include tennis, scuba and freediving. He’ll consider working anywhere there’s a

palm tree or two and a beach of a generally sandy persuasion. Home is Brighton, UK, within firing range of the city’s south-facing horizon. He tweets at @iaintravel.

Contributing Writer Joe Bindloss wrote the History and India Today chapters.

John NobleHimachal Pradesh, Madhya Pradesh & Chattisgarh John has been travelling since his teens and doing so as a Lonely Planet writer since the 1980s. The number of LP titles he’s written or co-written is well into three figures, covering a somewhat random selection of countries scattered across the globe, predominantly ones where Spanish, Russian or English are spoken (usually alongside numerous local languages). He still gets as excited as ever about heading out on the road to un-

familiar experiences, people and destinations, especially remote, off-the-beaten-track ones. Above all, he loves mountains, from the English Lake District to the Himalaya. See his pics on Instagram: @johnnoble11.

Kevin RaubMumbai, Maharashtra Kevin Raub grew up in Atlanta and started his career as a music journalist in New York, working for Men’s Journal and Rolling Stone mag-azines. Being a pursuer of hops himself, he was all too happy to put Kingfisher in his rearview drinking mirror and immerse himself in Mumbai’s exploding craft beer scene for this edition of the India guide. This is Kevin’s 40th Lonely Planet guide. Follow him on Twitter and Instagram (@RaubOnTheRoad). To learn more

about Kevin, check out www.lonelyplanet.com/members/kraub.

Sarina SinghAndaman Islands, Plan & Understand sections After finishing a business degree in her hometown of Melbourne, Sarina went to India to pursue a corporate train-eeship before working as a journalist. After five years she returned to Australia and completed postgraduate journalism qualifications before authoring Lonely Planet’s first edition of Rajasthan. Apart from numerous Lonely Planet books she has written for a raft of other publications and has been a scriptwriter and expert

commentator. Sarina is also the author of Polo in India as well as India: Essential Encounters. Her award-nominated documentary premiered at the prestigious Melbourne International Film Festival before screening internationally.

Michael BenanavUttar Pradesh, Uttarakhand When Michael was young, his father made the mis-take of handing him a biography of Lawrence of Arabia, along with adventure novels like Around the World in 80 Days. Something was sparked as this book-wormish boy over-identified with the main characters in these tales. Today, he is a veteran traveller, writer, and photographer, who loves exploring places far from beaten tourist trails. He’s authored three non-fiction books (set on three different

continents) and writes and shoots for major publications. He also founded Traditional Cultures Project, which documents indigenous cultures around the world. To see some of his work, visit www.michaelbenanav.com.

Mark ElliottJammu & Kashmir (including Ladakh), Sikkim British-born travel writer Mark Elliott has lived and worked on five continents, authoring or contributing to more than 60 books. He has been visiting the subcontinent since a 1982 trip which lined his stomach for all eventualities. While delighting in India’s full rainbow of cultures, he’s especially drawn to the cool air, magnificent mountains and spiritual warmth of the Himalayan regions whether sharing sufi secrets in Srinagar, mumbling man-

tras in Ladakh or being dazzled by Sikkim’s larger than life mega-temples/statues.

Paul HardingGoa, Kerala As a writer and photographer, Paul has been travelling the globe for the best part of two decades, with an interest in remote and offbeat places and cultures. He’s an author and contributor to more than 50 Lonely Planet guides to countries and regions as diverse as India, Iceland, Belize, Vanuatu, Iran, Indone-sia, New Zealand, Finland and – his home patch – Australia.

OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

Published by Lonely Planet Global LimitedCRN 55415317th edition – October 2017ISBN 978 1 78657 144 1© Lonely Planet 2017 Photographs © as indicated 201710 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in SingaporeAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona-ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

OUR WRITERSAbigail BlasiDelhi, Plan & Survival sections A freelance travel writer, Abigail has lived and worked in London, Rome, Hong Kong, and Copenhagen. Lonely Planet have sent her to India, Egypt, Tunisia, Mauritania, Mali, Italy, Portugal, Malta and around Brit-ain. She writes regularly for newspapers and magazines, such as the Independent, the Telegraph, and Lonely Planet Traveller. She has three children and they often come along for the ride. Follow her on Twitter and Instagram: @abiwhere

Lindsay BrownRajasthan Lindsay started travelling as a young bushwalker exploring the Blue Mountains west of Sydney. Then as a marine biologist he dived the coastal and is-land waters of southeastern Australia. He continued travelling whenever he could while employed at Lonely Planet as an editor and publishing manager. On becom-ing a freelance writer and photographer he has co-authored more than 30 Lonely Planet guides to Australia, Bhutan, India, Nepal, Pakistan and Papua New Guinea.

Anirban MahapatraPunjab & Haryana, Kolkata, West Bengal & Darjeeling, Northeast States Ever since he gave up his journalist day job in 2009, Anirban Mahapatra has been travelling across the farthest extents of India on professional assignments as a travel writer and documentary filmmaker. A Lonely Planet writer since 2007, he has so far worked on five consecutive editions of the India guidebook, mostly specialising in destinations in east and northeast India. When not socialising with

tribal chiefs over rice beer in Meghalaya or hiking along jungle trails in primeval Arunachal Pradesh, he cools his heels at his studio in Kolkata, conveniently located near some of the city’s choicest pubs and restaurants.

Isabella NobleTamil Nadu English-Australian on paper but Spanish at heart, Isabella has been wandering the globe since her first round-the-world trip as a one-year-old. Having grown up in a whitewashed Andalucian village, she is a Spain specialist travel journalist, but also writes extensively about India, Thailand, the UK and beyond for Lonely Planet, the Daily Telegraph and others. Isabella has co-written Lonely Planet guides to Spain and Andalucía, and contributed to India, South India,

Thailand, Thailand’s Islands & Beaches, Southeast Asia on a Shoestring and Great Britain, and authored Pocket Phuket. Find Isabella on Twitter and Instagram (@isabellamnoble).

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