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OUR READERSMany thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anec-dotes: Julie Cowan, Peter Stumvoll, Ramadan Besim, Sandra Buchanan, Simone Mollard

WRITER THANKSGreg BloomBig thanks to pop for tagging along and lending anecdotes, insight and much bar research. To Callie, who couldn’t wait until after my dead-line to arrive: you were so worth the sleepless nights. To her mama, Windi, T.Y. for keeping it together while I was away. To Callie’s sister, Anna, thanks always for keeping me sane. On the road, thanks to Nikolai (Minsk) and Leonid (Chişinău), and to Mike T and Fabian M, respec-tively, for setting me up with them.

Mark ElliottCountless kind Bosnians (and Hercegovinians, too) offered more help than I have space to acknowledge. Enormous thanks to the great philosophers at Savat, to Kate Hunt for so much emotion, Wangdi for the space and sustenance, and to Harriet Einsiedel, Izzy and Shashka for the amazing coincidences. Love and endless gratitude beyond words to my unbeatable family.

Anita IsalskaMy research in Slovakia was hugely enriched by the people I met on the road. I’m especially thankful for the tips and insights from Slavo Stankovič, Marek Leskovjanský, Erik Ševčík, Jiri Sikora, the incredibly helpful tourist office teams in Bratislava, Žilina and Martin, and pret-ty much everyone in friendly Košice. Big hugs to Normal Matt for being an invaluable write-up morale-booster.

Tom MastersMany thanks to Valmir, Emin, Esra, Granit, Shemsi and Lorik in Pristina, to Shpendi, Joard, Mateo, Renato and Rita in Tirana, and to dozens of hostel owners around both coun-tries who supplied such helpful information, especially to Walter in Gjirokastra, Catherine in Valbona, Roza in Shkodra, and the crews at Driza’s House in Prizren, Tirana Backpacker’s Hostel in Tirana and Hostel Saraç in Peja. Spe-cial thanks also to Jimmy in Theth for being a good Samaritan when I had car trouble!

Lorna ParkesA huge thank you to the friendly people of Macedonia who helped guide me through bad signposting, lost trail markers, GPS black holes and the basics of Cyrillic. Your warmth and good nature is a testament to your country. Equal thanks go to my husband, Rob, without whom I would not have been able to do this

Behind the Scenes

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

461BEH

IND TH

E SCENES

job, both mentally and physically, and my beautiful son, Austin, who patiently waited for my return.

Leonid RagozinHuge thanks to Olexiy Skrypnik, Serhiy Savchuk and Yevhen Stepanenko for helping me to explore Lviv. Another jumbo plane of gratitude goes to Lena Lebedinskaya, Ruslan Popkov and their wonderful friends in Odesa. Finally, thank you, Masha Makeeva, for endur-ing my long absences.

Tamara ShewardEvery time I go to Serbia, the hvala list gets outrageously longer; if I keep this up, I’ll be trying to cram 7.13 million names into this tiny space. To whittle down the numbers somewhat, I’ll offer my undying gratitude to the Lučić and Eremić families, Srdjan (the lifesaver) and Gordana, the NS Kitchen Col-lective, the wonderful folks of Šekspirova, and Brana Vladisavljevic at LP. My Dušan and Ma-sha, may 10000 trubači bands forever toot in your honour: poljupci zauvek!

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTSClimate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrol-ogy and Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344.Cover photograph: Fresco, Rila Monastery, Bulgaria. Walter Bibikow / AWL ©

THIS BOOKThis 14th edition of Lonely Planet’s Eastern Europe guidebook was curated by Mark Baker, Greg Bloom, Peter Dragicevich, Marc Di Duca, Anita Isalska, Tom Masters, Hugh McNaughtan, Lorna Parkes, Leonid Ragozin, Tim Richards, Simon Richmond, Tamara Sheward and Anna Tyler. This guidebook was produced by the following:Destination Editors Gemma Graham, Lauren Keith, Anna Tyler, Branislava Vladisavljevic Product Editors Anne Mason, Jenna Myers

Senior Cartographer Mark GriffithsBook Designer Mazzy PrinsepAssisting Editors Janet Austin, Sarah Bailey, Michelle Bennett, Kate Chapman, Katie Connolly, Melanie Dankel, Bruce Evans, Sam Forge, Carly Hall, Trent Holden, Kate James, Amy Karafin, Kellie Langdon, Jodie Martire, Anne Mulvaney, Rosie Nicholson, Lauren O’Connell, Kristin Odijk, Charlotte Orr, Monique Perrin, Sarah Reid, Gabbi Stefanos, Saralinda Turner, Fionnuala Twomey

Assisting Cartographer Valentina KremenchutskayaCover Researcher Naomi ParkerThanks to Cheree Broughton, Jennifer Carey, David Carroll, Kate Chapman, Neill Coen, Daniel Corbett, Joel Cotterell, Shona Gray, Jane Grisman, Andi Jones, Ivan Kovanovic, Borbála Molnár-Ellis, Catherine Naghten, Claire Naylor, Karyn Noble, Bridget Nurre Jenn-ions,, Martine Power, Rachel Rawling, Kirsten Rawlings, Kathryn Rowan, Ellie Simpson, Dora Whitaker

462

Index

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

Aaccommodation 23, 426-8,

see also individual locations

Accursed Mountains 18, 50-1, 18

activities 28-32, see also individual activities, individual locations

airports 436air travel

to/from Eastern Europe 436

within Eastern Europe 437

Albania 42-57, 43accommodation 57business hours 56climate 42costs 56, 57food 42, 55, 56highlights 43itineraries 44money 56public holidays 56telephone services 56travel to/from 57

Albanian Riviera 54Altja 172archaeological sites

Ancient Serdica Complex 88

Butrint 53Diocletian’s Palace 120-1Heraclea Lyncestis 256Kazanlâk tombs 98Medijana 374Salona 121Sirmium Imperial Palace

Complex 371architecture 27, 152, 219,

297, 326

art galleries, see museums & galleries

art nouveau 14ASTRA National Museum

Complex 324ATMs 431Auschwitz-Birkenau 295

BBalatonfüred 193-4Banat 328-31basilicas, see churches &

cathedralsbathrooms 434Bay of Kotor 13, 272, 13beaches 24

Albania 54Belgrade 363Black Sea Coast

(Bulgaria) 102-6Budva 272Dubrovnik 127Keszthely 195Lake Balaton 193Nesebâr 103Novi Sad 372Odesa 421Ohrid 249Pärnu 175Sozopol 105Varna 102

Bear Sanctuary Pristina 207

Belarus 58-69, 59accommodation 58, 69business hours 68climate 58costs 69food 58, 65, 69highlights 59itineraries 60money 69telephone services 69travel to/from 69travel within 69visas 69

Belgrade 17, 362-70, 364, 17accommodation 363-5drinking & nightlife 367-8entertainment 368-9food 365-6sights & activities 362-3tourist information 369travel to/from 370travel within 370

Belavezhskaya Pushcha National Park 68

Berat 52-3bicycle travel, see cyclingBitola 256Bjelašnica 78Bjelave 73Bjeshkët e Namuna 50-1Black Sea Coast 19,

102-6, 19Bled 403-5Bled Island 403-4boats, see ferry travelBohemia 148-53Bohinj 405-7border crossings 438Bosnia & Hercegovina

70-85, 71accommodation 70, 85business hours 84climate 70costs 85food 70, 84, 85highlights 71history 79internet access 84itineraries 72money 84postal services 84public holidays 84-5safety 85travel to/from 85visas 85

Bovec 407-8Boyana 94Brajčino 255Bran Castle 12, 322, 12

Braşov 319-22, 321Bratislava 377-84, 380

accommodation 379-81activities 379drinking & nightlife 382entertainment 382-3food 382history 377shopping 383sights 377-9tourist information 383tours 379travel to/from 383-4travel within 384

Brest 66-8breweries

Brewery Museum 149Jan Olbracht 309Old Town Brewery 246Pilsner Urquell

Brewery 149Sabaja Craft

Brewery 206 bridges

Charles Bridge 12, 138-9, 12

Crooked Bridge 81Stari Most 79

Brno 153-6Bucharest 313-19, 314

accommodation 316-17drinking & nightlife 317entertainment 318food 317shopping 318sights 313-16tourist information 318travel to/from 318-19travel within 319

Budapest 11, 181-91, 184, 186, 11

accommodation 185-7drinking 188-9entertainment 189festivals 185food 187-8


463IN

DEX B

-C shopping 189-90sights & activities 182-5tourist information 190travel to/from 190travel within 191

Budapest Spring Festival 29

budgeting 23Budva 272-4Bulgaria 86-107, 87

accommodation 86, 106climate 86costs 106, 107food 86, 105, 107gay & lesbian travellers

106highlights 87itineraries 89travel to/from 106-7travel within 107visas 106

bunkers 45Burgas 104bus travel


within Eastern Europe 438-9

business hours 432, see also individual locations

Ccable cars

Dubrovnik 127Kasprowy Wierch Cable

Car 298Mt Tâmpa 320

camping 426, 428canoeing 308, 407Canyon Matka 247-8car travel


within Eastern Europe 439-40

Carpathian Mountains 297-9

cash 431castles, fortresses &

palaces 24Asen’s Fortress 97Barbican 284Bendery Fortress 267Biljarda 278Bled Castle 404Bran Castle 12, 322, 12Bratislava Castle 377Brest Fortress 67Brukenthal Palace 324

Car Samoil’s Fortress 250-1

Catherine Palace 353Cēsis Castle 223Český Krumlov State

Castle 150Citadela (Budva) 272Citadella (Budapest) 182Devín Castle 384Dubrovnik forts 126Eger Castle 198Festetics Palace 195Fortica 124Gediminas Castle 228Gjirokastra Castle 54Kalaja 52Kalemegdan Citadel 362Karlštejn Castle 147-8Ljubljana Castle 398Lobkowicz Palace 136Lublin Castle 295Malbork Castle 307Mir Castle 66Niš Fortress 374Njasvizh Castle 65-6Old Royal Palace

(Prague) 136Palace of the Grand

Dukes of Lithuania 228

Peter & Paul Fortress 347

Petrovaradin Citadel 371Prague Castle 136, 137Predjama Castle 409Prizren Fortress 209Râşnov Fortress 322Reök Palace 197Royal Castle

(Warsaw) 284Royal Compound

(Belgrade) 363Rozafa Fortress 49Rundāle PalaceSighişoara Citadel 322Soroca Fortress 266Špilberk Castle 154Spiš Castle 390Tsarevets Fortress 100Turaida Museum

Reserve 222Tvrdina Kale

Fortress 242Wawel Royal Castle

289-91cathedrals, see churches &

cathedralscaves

Cave Vrelo 248Dobšinská Ice Cave 391

Postojna Cave 408Predjama cave system

409Škocjan Caves 408

cell phones 22, 433-4cemeteries

Antakalnis Cemetery 229

Capuchin Monastery 153-4

Kerepesi Cemetery 185Lychakiv Cemetery 419Mirogoj 109-10Old Church &

Cemetery 298Cēsis 223-4Český Krumlov 20, 150-3,

151, 20Cetinje 278-9Charles Bridge 12, 138-

9, 12Chernobyl 420children, travel with 428Chişinău 259-64, 262Chopin, Frédéric 285Chopin Museum 285Chornobyl 420churches & cathedrals

Aleksander Nevski Cathedral 88

Alexander Nevsky Orthodox Cathedral 164

Annunciation Cathedral 341

Archangel Cathedral 341Assumption Cathedral

341Basilica of St

Stephen 183Benedictine Abbey

Church 194Black Church 319Boyana Church 94Cathedral of Christ the

Saviour 340Cathedral of SS John

the Baptist & John the Evangelist 308

Cathedral of St Dmitry 346

Cathedral of St Domnius (Diocletian’s Palace) 121

Cathedral of St Elizabeth 392

Cathedral of St George 409

Cathedral of St John the Baptist (Lublin) 296

Cathedral of St John the Baptist (Racławice) 300

Church of Mariánska Hora 389

Church of Our Lady Before Týn 138

Church of Our Lady of Ljeviš 209

Church of Rozhdestvo Bogorodichno 95

Church of St Euphemia 116

Church of St James 138Church of St John the

Baptist 406Church of Sveti Andrej

247Church of Sveti Jovan at

Kaneo 249, 17Church of the Deposition

of the Robe 341Church of the Holy

Cross 284-5Church of the Saviour on

the Spilled Blood 347Latin Cathedral 420Loreta 136Matthias Church 182Nativity of Christ

Cathedral 215Nativity of Christ

Metropolitan Cathedral 260

Old Princely Court Church 315

Orthodox Metropolitan Cathedral 329

Plaošnik 249-50Poznań Cathedral 302Reformed Church 329Rīga Cathedral 214Saviour Monastery of St

Euthymius 346Sedlec Ossuary 148Spiš Chapter 390St Anne’s Church 229St Basil’s Cathedral

337, 15St Donatus’ Church 118St Francis Xavier Church

& Monastery 233St Isaac’s Cathedral 347St Martin’s Cathedral

377St Mary’s Basilica

(Kraków) 292St Mary’s Church

(Gdańsk) 305St Mary’s Evangelical

Church (Sibiu) 324

464

IND

EX C-H

St Mary’s Lutheran Cathedral 164

St Michael’s Church 325-6

St Moritz Cathedral 156St Nicholas’ Cathedral

(Braşov) 319-20St Nicholas Church

(Prague) 139St Nikolaiv Church

(Brest) 66St Olaf’s Church 165St Peter’s Church 214St Sophia’s

Cathedral 413St Stephen’s

Cathedral 124St Tryphon’s Cathedral

275St Vitus Cathedral 136Stavropoleos Church 315Sveta Bogorodica

Bolnička & Sveti Nikola Bolnički 250

Sveta Petka Samardzhiiska Church 88

Sveta Sofia Church (Sofia) 88

Sveta Sofija Cathedral (Ohrid) 250

Sveti Georgi Rotunda 88Sveti Sava Temple 363Sveti Spas Church 242Sveti Stefan Church 103Vilnius Cathedral 228Wawel Cathedral 291

citadels, see castles, fortresses & palaces

City Walls Dubrovnik 126climate 22, 28-32, see also

individual locationsCluj-Napoca 325-8communist relics 26concentration camps

Auschwitz-Birkenau 295Red Cross Concentration

Camp 374Majdanek 296

convents, see monasteries & convents

corruption 432-3credit cards 431Croatia 11, 108-33, 110

accommodation 108, 131-2

activities 122

business hours 132climate 108costs 131, 132food 108, 130, 132highlights 110itineraries 114public holidays 132telephone services 132tourist information 132travel to/from 133travel within 133visas 132

Curonian Spit 18, 236-7, 18currency 22cycling 437-8

Bratislava 379Curonian Spit 18, 237, 18Riga 218 Tallinn 168 Zagreb 113

Czech Beer Festival 29Czech Republic 134-61, 135

accommodation 134, 158business hours 158climate 134costs 158, 160food 134, 159, 160gay & lesbian

travellers 158highlights 135itineraries 138money 159public holidays 159telephone services 159travel to/from 159-60travel within 160-1visas 159

DDalmatia 117-31dangers, see safetyDanube Bend 191-2Danube Delta 326Debrecen 198Dihovo 255Diocletian’s Palace 120-1disabilities, travellers with

434-5discount cards 428-9Dracula 322Dragalevtsi 94driving, see car travelDrvengrad 373Dubrovnik 13, 126-31,

128, 13accommodation 127-9activities 127food 129-30

sights 126-7tourist information 131travel to/from 131travel within 131

Durmitor National Park 279-81

EEger 198-9electricity 429emergencies 429Estonia 162-79, 163

accommodation 162, 178climate 162costs 178, 179food 162, 177, 179gay &lesbian

travellers 178highlights 163itineraries 165telephone services 178tourist information 178travel to/from 179travel within 179visas 179

Estonian Open-Air Museum 168

Esztergom 192events see festivalsexchange rates 23EXIT Festival 30

Ffarm tourism 427Ferdinand, Franz 72ferry travel


within Eastern Europe 438

festivals 28-32, see also individual locations

food 26, 399-401, see also individual locations

fortresses, see castles, fortresses & palaces

GGagauzia 261Galičnik 249galleries, see musems &

galleriesgardens, see parks &

gardensgay travellers 430-1

Bulgaria 106Czech Republic 158Estonia 178Latvia 225

Poland 310Romania 331

Gdańsk 304-7, 304Gierłoż 308Giżycko 308Gjirokastra 54-6Golden Ring 345-7Golem Grad 254Gorky Park 337Gospa od Škrpjela 276Great Masurian

Lakes 308Great Plain 197-8Grūtas Park 233

Hhealth 429-30Heraclea Lyncestis 256Hercegovina, see Bosnia &

HercegovinaHermitage 16, 351, 16Hévíz 195High Tatras 14, 386-9, 14hiking 24-5

Accursed Mountain 18, 50-1, 18

Bled 404Durmitor National

Park 279High Tatras 386Pelister National Park

255-6Rugova Mountains 208safety 386Zakopane 298

Hill of Crosses 235historic sites 25

Andriyivsky Uzviz 413Auschwitz-Birkenau 295Hrnčiarska 392Majdanek 296

hitching 440homestays 427horse riding

Bled 404Mavrovo National

Park 249Hoxha, Enver 54Hradčany 136Hrebienok 386Hrodna 66Hungary 180-201, 181

accommodation 180, 200

climate 180costs 200food 180, 200, 201highlights 181itineraries 182


465IN

DEX H

-M

money 200telephone services 200tourist information 200travel to/from 200-1travel within 201visas 200

Hvar Island 124-6, 11

Iinsurance 430

health 429vehicle 439-40

internet access 430internet resources 23

travel advisories 434island hopping 11islands

Bled Island 403-4Elafiti Islands 127Golem Grad 254Gospa od Škrpjela 276Hvar Island 124-6Lokrum 127Margaret Island 183Paklemi Islands 125, 11Sveti Djordje 276Sveti Ivan 105

Istria 115-17itineraries 33-40, 33, 34,

35, 36, 38, 39, 40

JJahorina 78Janče 248-9Jewish heritage

Galicia Jewish Museum 292

Great Synagogue (Bucharest) 315

Great Synagogue (Budapest) 184-5

Holocaust Memorial Center for the Jews of Macedonia 244

Museum of Jewish Culture 379

Museum of the History of Polish Jews 285

Prague Jewish Museum 143

Rīga Ghetto & Latvian Holocaust Museum 218

Schindler’s Factory 292Vilnius 229Zamość synagogue 297Zaslavsky Jewish

Monument 60Julian Alps 403-7Jūrmala 221-2

KKableshkov, Todor 99Kadare, Ismail 54Kalamaja 165Kaliningrad 354Karlštejn 147-8Karst 408-10Kaunas 233-5kayaking

Bled 404Durmitor National Park

279-80Elafiti Islands 127Lake Balaton 193Lake Matka 248

Kazanlâk 98Kazimierz 292Keszthely 194-5Klaipėda 235-6Konjic 78Koprivshtitsa 99-100Korčula 117Košice 391-3Kosovo 202-11, 203, 13

accommodation 202business hours 210-11climate 202food 202, 206highlights 203itineraries 205public holidays 211travel to/from 211travel within 211visas 211

Kotor 13, 274, 274-6, 274Kraków 17, 289-94, 290, 17

accommodation 292-3drinking & nightlife

293-4entertainment 294food 293sights 289-92tourist information 294travel to/from 294

Kremlin (Moscow) 336-7Kuldīga 224Kutná Hora 148Kyiv 413-19, 416

LLahemaa National Park 172Lake Balaton 15, 193-5, 15Lake Bled 403Lake Koman 50Lake Ohrid 252landmines 433languages 22, 443-59Latvia 212-25, 213

accommodation 212climate 212food 212, 222highlights 213itineraries 214telephone services 225travel to/from 225travel within 225

Latvian Ethnographic Open-Air Museum 220

legal matters 430Lenin, Vladimir Ilych 337Lenin’s Mausoleum

(Moscow) 337lesbian travellers 430-1

Bulgaria 106Czech Republic 158Estonia 178Latvia 225Poland 310Romania 331

Levoča 389LGBT travellers see gay

travellers, lesbian travellers

Lithuania 226-39, 227 accommodation 226, 237

business hours 237climate 226costs 238, 239food 226, 237highlights 227itineraries 228money 237telephone services 238travel to/from 238travel within 238

Ljubljana 397-403, 400accommodation 399drinking & nightlife

401-2entertainment 402sights 397-8tourist information 402travel to/from 402-3travel within 403

Lokrum 127Lovćen National Park 277-8Lublin 294-7Lviv 21, 419-22, 21

MMacedonia 240-57, 241


climate 240

costs 256, 257food 240, 254, 257highlights 241itineraries 245money 256-7travel to/from 257travel within 257

Malá Strana 138-9Małopolska 289-97Margaret Island 183markets

Bratislava Christmas markets 379

Cheese Market (Peja) 208

Danilovsky Market 342Dolac Market 109Izmaylovsky Market 344Ljubljana Central Market

398Rīga Central Market 215

mausoleums, see also cemeteries

Lenin’s Mausoleum 337Njegoš Mausoleum 277Tito’s Mausoleum 362

Mavrovo National Park 248-9

Melnik 95-6Mezhyhirya 419Mikołajki 308Mileştii Mici 18, 265, 18Minsk 20, 60-5, 62, 20

accommodation 61drinking 63-4food 61-3shopping 64sights 60tourist information 64tours 60travel to/from 64-5travel within 65

Mir 66mobile phones 22, 433-4Mokra Gora 373Moldova 258-69, 259


business hours 269climate 258costs 269food 258, 268highlights 259money 269public holidays 269travel to/from 269travel within 269visas 269

Moldova wine country 265

466

IND

EX M

monasteries & conventsBachkovo Monastery 97Cave Monastery 265Cetinje Monastery 278-9Gračanica Monastery

207Kyevo-Pecherska Lavra

413Noul Neamţ Monastery

267Ostrog Monastery 278Patriarchate of Peć

207-8Rila Monastery 95Southern Bucovina

monasteries 328St Francis Xavier Church

& Monastery 233Sveta Bogorodica

Monastery 248Sveti Jovan Bigorski

Monastery 248Sveti Naum Monastery

253-4Trinity Monastery of St

Sergiy 346Visoki Dečani Monastery

208money 22, 428-9, 431-2

see also individual locations

Montenegro 270-81, 271accommodation 270, 281climate 270costs 280, 281food 270, 280highlights 271itineraries 272travel to/from 281travel within 281

monumentsCandle of Gratitude 266Ćele Kula 374Fishermen’s Bastion 182Freedom Monument 215Holy Trinity Column 156Newborn Monument 205Njegoš Mausoleum 277Sea Organ 117-8Sun Salutation 118Zaslavsky Jewish

Monument 60Moravia 153-8Moscow 336-45, 338

accommodation 341-2art galleries 344

drinking 343entertainment 343-4food 342-3shopping 344-5sights 336-40tours 340-1travel within 345

mosquesEt’hem Bey Mosque 45Gazi-Husrevbey

Mosque 72Jashar Pasha

Mosque 205Mosque Church

(Pécs) 196Sinan Pasha

Mosque 209Sultan Mehmet Fatih

Mosque 205Mostar 16, 79-84, 80, 16

accommodation 82drinking & nightlife 83food 82-3shopping 83sights & activities 79-81tourist information 84tours 81

motorcycle travelto/from Eastern

Europe 437within Eastern Europe

439-40Mt Tâmpa 320Mt Triglav 21, 407, 21Mt Vitosha 94Mucha, Alfons 139Muhu 176museums & galleries 26

Aleksander Nevski Crypt 88

Apple Museum 138Archaeological Museum

(Nesebâr) 103Archaeological Museum

(Sofia) 88Archaeological Museum

(Sozopol) 105Archaeological Museum

(Split) 121Archaeological Museum

(Varna) 102Archaeological Museum

of Macedonia 242Armoury (Kremlin) 336Arsenāls Exhibition

Hall 215Art Pavilion (Zagreb) 109ASTRA National Museum

Complex 324Balabanov House 96-7

Belarusian State Art Museum 60

Brewery Museum 149Brukenthal Palace 324Bunk’Art 44-57Chopin Museum 285City Museum of Lju-

bljana 398Danubiana Meulensteen

Art Museum 384Despića Kuća 73Egon Schiele Art

Centrum 151Emin Gjiku Ethnographic

Museum 204Estonian National

Museum 173Estonian Open Air

Museum 168Ethnographic Museum

(Berat) 52Ethnographical Museum

(Plovdiv) 97Ethnographical Museum

(Sofia) 88Galerija 11-07-95 73Galicia Jewish Museum

292Gallery of Matica Srpska

371Grigore Antipa Natural

History Museum 316Hammam Museum 81Hermitage 351Historical Museum of

Gdańsk 304-5Historical Museum of

Poznań 302History Museum of

BiH 75History Museum of

Lithuania Minor 236Holocaust Memorial

Center for the Jews of Macedonia 244

Holocaust Museum (Vilnius) 229

House of Terror 183Hungarian National

Museum 183Jūrmala City

Museum 222Kadriorg Art

Museum 167Kajtaz House 81Kaunas Picture

Gallery 234Klaipėda Castle

Museum 235Kraków Gate 295Kumu 168Kunstkamera 347-50

Latvian Ethnographic Open-Air Museum 220

Latvian National Museum of Art 215

Lennusadam 165Maironis Lithuanian

Literary Museum 233-4

Maritime Museum of Montenegro 275

Marubi National Photography Museum 49

Memorial House of Mother Teresa 242

Meštrović Gallery 121MK Čiurlionis National

Museum of Art 234Moscow galleries 344Mucha Museum 139Muhu Museum 176Museum Fotoateliér

Seidel 151-2Museum of Broken

Relationships 109Museum of Confiscated

Art 66Museum of Contempo-

rary Art (Skopje) 244Museum of Contempo-

rary Art (Zagreb) 109Museum of Decorative

Arts & Design 214Museum of Genocide

Victims 229Museum of Jewish

Culture 379Museum of Modern Art

(Olomouc) 156Museum of New Art

(Pärnu) 175Museum of Railway

Technology 66Museum of Roses 98Museum of Socialist

Art 89Museum of the 1989

Revolution 329Museum of the Great

Patriotic War 60Museum of the History

of Polish Jews 285Museum of the Infant

Jesus of Prague 139Museum of the Ninth

Fort 234Museum of the

Romanian Peasant 316Museum of Vojvodina 371Museum of Yugoslav

History 362Museum of Zakopane

Style 298


467IN

DEX M

-R Museum of Zamość 297Museum on Water - Bay

of the Bones 254National Archaeology

& History Museum (Chişinău) 260

National Gallery of Arts (Tirana) 44

National Gallery of Macedonia 242-4

National History Mu-seum (Tirana) 44

National Maritime Mu-seum (Gdańsk) 305

National Museum (Belgrade) 363

National Museum (Ohrid) 250

National Museum (Racławice) 300

National Museum (Sarajevo) 73

National Museum of Ethnography & Natural History (Chişinău) 260

National Museum of History (Boyana) 94

National Museum of Lithuania 228

National Museum of Montenegro 278

National Museum of Slovenia 398

Neon Museum 287New Tretyakov Gallery

337Nikola Tesla Museum

362-3Onufri Museum 52Palace of the Grand

Dukes of Lithuania 228

Perast Museum 277Pharmacy History

Collection 326Prague City Museum

139-42Prague Jewish Museum

143Pushkin Fine Arts

Museum 340Red Cross Concentration

Camp 374Russian Museum 347Rīga Ghetto & Latvian

Holocaust Museum 217

Rynek Underground 292Sarajevo 1878-1918

museum 72Schindler’s Factory 292Sergej Mašera Maritime

Museum 409-10

Stalin Line Museum 60State History Museum

(Moscow) 337State Tretyakov Gallery

337Storno House 192Techmania Science

Centre 149Rīga History & Naviga-

tion Museum 214Timișoara Art Museum

329Tiraspol National History

Museum 267Toruń Gingerbread

Museum 308Tunnel Museum 76University of Tartu

Museum 173War Photo Limited 127Warsaw Rising Museum

285Zepter Museum 362

Nnational parks & reserves,

see also parks & gardens

Belavezhskaya Pushcha National Park 68

Curonian Spit National Park 236

Djerdap National Park 369

Durmitor National Park 279-81

Galičica National Park 253

Hortobágy National Park 198

Kurshskaya Kosa National Park 354

Lahemaa National Park 172

Lovćen National Park 277-8

Mavrovo National Park 248-9

Mt Dajti National Park 45Pelister National Park

255-6Plitvice Lakes National

Park 119Slovenský Raj National

Park 390-1Tara National Park 369

Nesebâr 103-4, 19nightlife 26, see also

individual locations Niš 373-5Njasvizh 65-6Njeguši 278

Nové Město 139-42Novi Sad 370-3Novo Sarajev 73-5

OOdesa 421Ohrid 17, 249-53, 250, 17old towns 24, see also

individual locationsOlomouc 156-8Opatija 117opening hours see

business hoursOrheiul Vechi 265Ostrów Tumski 302Otepää 174-5

PPakleni Islands 125, 11palaces, see castles,

fortresses & palacesPaneriai 232-3parks & gardens, see

also national parks & reserves

Gorky Park 337Grădina Publică Ştefan

cel Mare şi Sfînt 260Grūtas Park 233Kadriorg Park 165-8Łazienki Park 285Maksimir Park 109Marjan Forest Park 121Memento Park 182Parcul Catedralei 260Parcul Etnografic Romu-

lus Vuia 326Punta Corrente Forest

Park 116Vintgar Gorge 404

Pärnu 175-6Pécs 196Peja 207-9Pelister National Park

255-6Perast 276-7Peterhof 353phonecards 434photography 432Piran 409-10Pirita 168planning

budgeting 23calendar of events 28-32Eastern Europe basics

22-3internet resources 23itineraries 33-40, 33, 34,

35, 36, 38, 39, 40

travel seasons 22, 28-32, 426

Plitvice Lakes National Park 119

Plovdiv 96-9Plzeň 148-50Podgórze 292Poland 282-311, 283


business hours 310climate 282costs 310, 311food 282, 309highlights 283gay & lesbian

travellers 310itineraries 284money 310public holidays 310telephone services

310-11travel to/from 311travel within 311visas 311

Pomerania 304-9Poprad 385-6Poreč 117postal services 432Postojna 408-9Poznań 301-3Prague 12, 136-47, 137, 140

accommodation 143drinking & nightlife

145-6entertainment 146food 144-5sights 136-42tourist information 146-7travel to/from 147travel within 147

Prague Castle 136, 137Pristina 203-7, 204Prizren 21, 209-10, 21public holidays 432, see

also individual locationsPula 117Pushkin, Alexander 260

Rrafting, see kayakingrail passes 442Red Square (Moscow) 15,

337, 15reserves, see national

parks & reservesRīga 14, 214-21, 216-17, 15

accommodation 218-19drinking & nightlife 220

468

IND

EX R-T

entertainment 220food 219-20shopping 221sights 214-17tours 217travel to/from 221travel within 221

Rila Monastery 95road hazards 440Romania 312-33, 313

accommodation 312, 331climate 312costs 331, 332food 312, 332gay & lesbian

travellers 331highlights 313itineraries 316money 331telephone services 331-2travel to/from 332-3travel within 333visas 332

Rovinj 116-17Rugora Mountains 208ruins, see archaeological

sitesRundāle Palace 215Russia 334-59, 335

accommodation 334, 355business hours 355climate 334costs 355, 357food 334, 357, 358highlights 335itineraries , 336money 356postal services 356public holidays 356safety 356telephone services 356travel to/from 358travel within 358-9visas 357

SSaaremaa 176-8safety 432-3, see also

individual locationshiking 386road hazards 440

Sarajevo 72-9, 74accommodation 75-6drinking 77-8

entertainment 77-8food 76-7shopping 78sights & activities 72-5tourist information 78tours 75travel to/from 78travel within 79

Sarajevo Film Festival 31Saranda 53-4Savamala 368scams 433Schiele, Egon 151senior travellers 428Serbia 360-75, 361


climate 360costs 374, 375food 360, 367, 374highlights 361itineraries 362money 375travel to/from 375travel within 375visas 375

Sergiev Posad 346-7Shkodra 49-50Sibiu 323-5Sighişoara 322-3Sigulda 222-3Silesia 299-301Skalnaté 386skiing

High Tatras 388Sarajevo region 78Zakopane 298

Škocjan Caves 408Skopje 241-8, 243

accommodation 244-5drinking & nightlife 246food 245sights 242-4tourist information 246tours 244travel to/from 246-7travel within 247

Slovakia 376-95, 378accommodation 376,

393, 394, 395climate 376costs 394, 395food 376highlights 378itineraries 377money 394tourist information 394travel to/from 394-5

travel within 395visas 394

Slovenia 396-411, 397accommodation 396, 411activities 407climate 396costs 411food 396, 405, 411highlights 397itineraries 398money 410tourist information 410travel to/from 411travel within 411

Slovenský Raj National Park 390-1

Smokovec 386, 387, 388Soča Valley 407-8Sofia 88-94, 90

accommodation 89-90drinking & nightlife 92entertainment 92-3food 91-2shopping 93sights 88-9tourist information 93tours 89travel to/from 93-4travel within 94

Sopron 192-3Soroca 266Sozopol 105-6Spišské Podhradie 389-90Split 119-24, 120Srem 371Sremska Mitrovica 371Sremski Karlovci 371St Anastasia Island 104St Basil’s Cathedral

(Moscow) 337, 15St Michael’s Church

(Cluj-Napoca) 325-6St Petersburg 347-55, 348

accommodation 351entertainment 354-5food 351-2sights 347-50tourist information 355travel within 355

Staré Město 137-8Stari Most (Mostar) 79Štart 386State Hermitage Museum

16, 351, 16Štrbské Pleso 387, 388Suzdal 346Sveti Djordje 276Sveti Ivan 105

Svetlogorsk 354synagogues

Choral Synagogue 229Great Synagogue

(Bucharest) 315Great Synagogue

(Budapest) 184-5Old-New Synagogue 143Prague synagogues 143Synagogue in the

Fortress 329Zamość synagogue 297

Szeged 197-8Szentendre 191

TTallinn 19, 164-72, 166, 19

accommodation 168-9drinking & nightlife 170-1food 169-70shopping 171sights & activities 164-8tourist information 171tours 168travel to/from 171travel within 171-2

Tartu 173-4Tatranská Lomnica 386-87Tatras Mountains 385-6,

see also High TatrasTelč 152telephone services 22,

433-4, see also individual locations

Tesla, Nikola 362-3theft 433Theth 51Tihany 194Tikveš 253time 434time zones 22Timişoara 329-31tipping 431Tirana 44-8, 46

accommodation 45-7drinking 48food 47-8sights & activities 44-5tourist information 48tours 45travel to/from 48travel within 48

Tiraspol 267-9Tivat 277toilets 434Tőkés, Father László 329Toompea 164Toruń 307-9


469IN

DEX T-Z

tourist information 434, see also individual locations

train travelrail passes 428to/from Eastern Europe

437within Eastern Europe

441-2Trakai 233Transdniestr 266-9Transylvania 12, 319-28travel advisories 434travellers cheques 431-2travel to/from Eastern

Europe 436-7travel within Eastern

Europe 437-42trekking, see hikingTrogir 118Tsarskoe Selo 353

UUkraine 412-24, 414

accommodation 412, 422, 423

climate 412costs 423, 424

food 412, 422, 424highlights 414itineraries 413money 423postal services 423safety 423travel to/from 423-4travel within 424visas 423

Vvaccinations 429Valbona 50-1Varna 102-3Veliko Târnovo 100-1Ventspils 224-5Vevčani 254Vilnius 227-32, 230

accommodation 229-30drinking & nightlife 231-2entertainment 232food 231sights 227-9tourist information 232travel to/from 232travel within 232

visas 22, 435, see also individual locations

Visegrád 192Visoko 78Vladimir 345-6Vlkolínec 384Vojvodina 370-3Vršič Pass 21, 21Vuno 54

Wwalking, see hikingWarsaw 283-9, 286

accommodation 287drinking & nightlife 288entertainment 288food 287-8sights 284-7tourist information 288travel to/from 288-9travel within 289

water 430weather 22, 28-32websites, see internet

resourcesWhite Nights 29Wieliczka 293

Wielkopolska 301-3wildlife refuges

Bear Sanctuary Pristina 207

wine 18, 26festivals 28, 32, 95,

185, 197regions 253, 265

women travellers 435work 435Wrocław 299-301

ZZadar 117-19Zagreb 109-15, 112

accommodation 113drinking & nightlife 114food 114shopping 115sights 109-13tourist information 115tours 113travel to/from 115travel within 115

Zakopane 297-9Zamość 297Zlatibor 373

470

NO

TES

471N

OTES

472

NO

TES

473N

OTES

474

NO

TES

475N

OTES

476

NO

TES

47 7

Walking Tour detourWalking Tour

Path/Walking Trail

BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information

AirportBorder crossingBus

CyclingFerry

U-Bahn/Underground station

MonorailParking

Metro station

Petrol stationS-Bahn/Subway stationTaxi

Train station/RailwayTram

Other Transport

LighthouseHut/Shelter

Beach

LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall

River, CreekIntermittent River

Swamp/Mangrove

Reef

Canal

Water

Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake

Glacier

Beach/Desert

Airport/Runway

Cemetery (Christian)

Cemetery (Other)

Park/Forest

Mudflat

Sportsground

Sight (Building)

International

DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall

Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

State/Province

LaneTertiary

TollwayFreewayPrimary

StepsPlaza/Mall

Pedestrian overpass

Secondary

Unsealed roadRoad under construction

Tunnel

Cable car/Funicular

BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin

Sento Hot Baths/Onsen

ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight

DivingBodysurfing

Sleeping

Eating

Entertainment

Shopping

Drinking & NightlifeCafe

Camping

Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour

SkiingSnorkellingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity

Tube station

T-bane/Tunnelbana station

Gate

Information Routes

Boundaries

Hydrography

Areas

Geographic

Population

Transport

Sights

Activities,Courses & Tours

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

ShoppingNote: Not all symbols displayed aboveappear on the maps in this book

Map Legend


478

BEHIN

D THE SCEN

ES

Tim RichardsPoland Tim is a travel writer whose work has appeared in a variety of news-papers, magazines and websites. He also researches and writes guidebooks for Lonely Planet. Tim lived in Egypt for two years, and Poland for a year, while teaching English as a foreign language in the mid-1990s. Nowadays he lives in the city centre of Melbourne, Australia, with his wife, Narrelle Harris.

Simon RichmondJournalist and photographer Simon Richmond has specialised as a travel writer since the early 1990s and first worked for Lonely Planet in 1999 on their Central Asia guide. He’s long since stopped counting the number of guidebooks he’s researched and written for the company, but countries cov-ered including Australia, China, India, Iran, Japan, Korea, Malaysia, Mongolia, Myanmar (Burma), Russia, Singapore, South Africa and Turkey. For Lonely

Planet’s website he’s penned features on topics from the world’s best swimming pools to the joys of Urban Sketching - follow him on Instagram to see some of his photos and sketches. Simon contributed to the Plan and Survival Guide chapters

Tamara ShewardMontenegro & Serbia After years of freelance travel writing, rock’n’roll journalism and insalubrious authordom, Tamara leapt at the chance to join the Lonely Planet ranks in 2009. Since then, she’s worked on guides to an incongruous jumble of countries including Montenegro, Australia, Serbia, Russia, the Samoas, Bulgaria and Fiji. She’s written a miscellany of travel

articles for the BBC, The Independent, Sydney Morning Herald et al; she’s also fronted the camera as a documentary presenter for Lonely Planet TV, Nat Geo and Al-Jazeera. Tamara’s based in far northern Australia, but you’re more likely to find her roaming elsewhere, tattered notebook in one hand, the world’s best-travelled toddler in the other.

Contributing Writers & ResearchersCarolyn Bain (Iceland & Slovenia)Steve Fallon (Hungary, Slovenia & Romania)Anna Kaminksi (Hungary)Anja Mutić (Croatia)Andy Symington (Estonia, Latvia & Lithuania)Neil Wilson (Czech Republic)


479BEH

IND TH

E SCENES

Mark Elliott Bosnia & Hercegovina Having already lived and worked on five continents, Mark started writing travel guides in the pre-Internet dark ages. His first work, Asia Overland, was a ludicrously over-ambitious opus covering a whole continent and designed to aid impecunious English teachers make the trip home to Europe from Japan with a minimal budget. It was one of the first guides to help backpackers across the then-new states of the former USSR.

Elliott has since written, or co-written, around 60 other travel books, while acting as a travel consultant, occasional tour leader, video presenter, interviewer and blues harmonicist.

Anita IsalskaBulgaria, Hungary, Romania & Slovakia Anita is a travel journalist, editor and copywriter whose work for Lonely Planet has taken her from Greek beach towns to Malaysian jungles, and plenty of places in between. After several merry years as an in-house editor and writer – with a few of them in Lonely Planet’s London office – Anita now works freelance between the UK, Australia and any Balkan guesthouse with a good wi-fi connection. Anita writes about

travel, food and culture for a host of websites and magazines. Read her stuff on www.anita- isalska.com.

Tom MastersAlbania & Kosovo Dreaming since he could walk of going to the most ob-scure places on earth, Tom has always had a taste for the unknown. This has led to a writing career that has taken him all over the world, including North Korea, the Arctic, Congo and Siberia. Despite a brief spell living in the English countryside, Tom has always called London, Paris and Berlin home. He cur-

rently lives in Berlin and can be found online at www.tommasters.net.

Hugh McNaughtanLithuania A former English lecturer, Hugh swapped grant applications for visa applications, and turned his love of travel intro a full-time thing. A long-time castle tragic with an abiding love of Britain’s Celtic extremities, he jumped at the chance to explore Wales, from the Cambrian Mountains to the tip of Anglesey. He’s never happier than when on the road with his two daughters. Except perhaps on the cricket field....

Lorna ParkesMacedonia Londoner by birth, Melburnian by palate and ex-Lonely Planet staffer in both cities, Lorna has spent more than 10 years exploring the globe in search of the perfect meal, the friendliest B&B, the best-value travel expe-rience, and the most spectacular lookout point – both for her own pleasure and other people’s. She’s discovered she writes best on planes, and has con-tributed to numerous Lonely Planet books and magazines. Wineries and the

tropics (not at the same time!) are her go-to happy places. Follow her @Lorna_Explorer.

Leonid RagozinLatvia, Russia & Ukraine Leonid studied beach dynamics at the Moscow State University, but for want of decent beaches in Russia, he switched to journalism and spent 12 years voyaging through different parts of the BBC, with a break for a four-year stint as a foreign correspondent for the Russian Newsweek. Leonid is currently a freelance journalist focusing largely on the

conflict between Russia and Ukraine (both his Lonely Planet destinations), which prompted him to leave Moscow and find a new home in Rīga.

OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

Published by Lonely Planet Global LimitedCRN 55415314th edition – October 2017ISBN 978 1 78657 145 8© Lonely Planet 2017 Photographs © as indicated 201710 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona-ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

OUR WRITERSMark BakerBulgaria, Czech Republic, Romania & Slovenia Mark is a freelance travel writer with a penchant for offbeat stories and forgotten places. He’s originally from the United States, but now makes his home in the Czech capital, Prague. He writes mainly on Eastern and Central Europe for Lonely Planet as well as other leading travel publishers, but finds real satisfaction in digging up stories in places that are too remote or quirky for the guides. Prior to becoming an author, he worked as a

journalist for The Economist, Bloomberg News and Radio Free Europe, among other organisations.Instagram: @markbakerprague Twitter: @markbakerprague

Greg BloomBelarus & Moldova Greg is a freelance writer, tour operator and travel planner based out of Siem Reap, Cambodia, and Manila, Philippines. Greg began his writing career in the late ‘90s in Ukraine, working as a journalist and later edi-tor-in-chief of the Kyiv Post, an English-language weekly. As a freelance travel writer, he has contributed to some 35 Lonely Planet titles, mostly in Eastern

Europe and Asia. In addition to writing, he now organises adventure trips in Cambodia and Pala-wan (Philippines) through his tour company, Bearcat Travel.

Marc Di DucaCroatia, Poland & Ukraine A travel author for the last decade, Marc has worked for Lonely Planet in Siberia, Slovakia, Bavaria, England, Ukraine, Austria, Poland, Croatia, Portugal, Madeira and on the Trans-Siberian Railway, as well as writing and updating tens of other guides for other publishers. When not on the road, Marc lives between Sandwich, Kent and Mariánské Láznĕ in the Czech Republic with his wife and two sons.

Peter DragicevichCroatia & Estonia After a successful career in niche newspaper and magazine publishing, both in his native New Zealand and in Australia, Peter finally gave into Kiwi wanderlust, giving up staff jobs to chase his diverse roots around much of Europe. Over the last decade he’s written literally dozens of guidebooks for Lonely Planet on an oddly disparate collection of countries, all of which he’s come to love. He once again calls Auckland, New Zealand his home – although his current no-madic existence means he’s often elsewhere.


© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’

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