From The Editor –

For me, March is likened to Wednesday being ‘hump’ day.

March signals the beginning of spring with daffodils,

March madness, St. Patrick’s Day, kite flying and

sometimes Easter baskets. I think in this issue of Bear in

Mind, we have touched on just about every one of those

aspects of March. It is another packed issue for you to

enjoy, hopefully with a cup of ‘green’ tea!

We welcome Susie Gay as our guest this month as she

shares a beautiful smocked collar. I have heard from many

shops in the past 18 months that they are seeing a revival of

smocked collars. This one is especially nice as the plate can

be so easily adapted and individualized! Susie even shares

her method of making padded coat hangers for adult, child

and even doll clothing!

Louise Hedrick is back with her immense knowledge of

vintage dolls. What a treat to have her sharing. This month

is an introduction to German china dolls and is so very

interesting.

Annabelle and Ping are hosting a Slumber Party in

celebration of St. Patrick’s Day. Oh, to have the energy of

these young ladies….My bet is that not much sleep was

had!

I will not keep you further as you have lots of reading and

enjoying inside, so I leave you to stay warm and

Happy stitching…

Sheila

About Susie Gay

Susie Gay has been stitching just about anything since she was six years old, from her wedding gown and trousseau, to a grass catcher for her dad’s lawn mower. A Home Economist by trade, and an early member of SAGA, she has taught formal classes since 1981, which included construction classes, smocking, shadow work, French hand sewing, and Crazy Quilting. She took a hiatus from teaching after following her Army husband to Germany for nine years, and entered Civil Service. Realizing her chance to finally return to her dream of living and breathing needlework and sewing, she left Civil Service in 2001 and has never looked back. Susie has won many blue ribbons in the SAGA Design Show including Best in Show (2005), Viewer’s Choice (2007) and Judge’s Choice (2x, 2009). She was awarded a Judge’s Choice award along with several ribbons at the prestigious Woodlawn Needlework Show (2010). A national teacher for the Smocking Arts Guild of America, she travels wherever she is hired across the U.S. She owns Berryhill Heirlooms, a web store that stocks patterns, books, kits, handmade sewing accessories and notions. She is the designer of Berryhill Heirlooms Patterns and has published several articles in Creative Needle, Sew Beautiful magazines and SAGA News.

Bear in Mind An electronic newsletter from Bear Threads Ltd. Volume 7 – Issue 3 March 2015

Elegant Easter Dress By Susie Gay

Take a dress, add a lovely smocked collar, and you have a beautiful outfit for Easter or any special occasion. The Harlequin smocking design (instructions and design plate follow) is very simple and entirely effective because it perfectly frames the wearer’s face. It’s also a wonderful choice for a floral fabric: just choose one dominant color and one contrasting color of the floral fabric for the smocking. The added benefit of this design is the ease with which it’s completed: its fast (Easter is on 6 April this year!) and requires only three stitches (cable, baby wave and 5-step trellis). Harlequin can be “dressed up or dressed down” by using flowerets in some of the diamonds formed by the 5-step trellis. Cast-on flowers could also be used, along with small colored buttons. Turn this into a basic yoke design by using the double cable/baby wave design on rows 1-2 at the bottom of the design and “fill it out” with the decorative stitches and ideas mentioned above. It’s really an open diamond design just waiting for your beautiful ideas. Two bullion roses adorn each front collar corner in three colors: the center is pale yellow, the middle is in white and the outer bullion row is the same pink as the smocking. Both roses have four cast-on leaves, two at each side, to complete the collar. The dress fabric is Bear Threads’ Pique Jacquard Floral 100% Swiss cotton in pink. It is absolutely gorgeous to work with and has a wonderful hand. Since it is 60” wide it goes a long way, and also comes in blue and green as well. As any pique can do, it does ravel a bit, so just finish the seams as you are stitching. I was able to stitch narrow French seams with the “Zorro” (lightening zigzag) stitch for the first pass of the French seam process, then completed the second pass using a narrow edge stitch foot as a guide to achieve very consistent results. This fabric would make a

beautiful adult-sized suit or a “shrug” jacket for a little girl besides other styles of elegant dresses. If you have any scraps left over, use them to make a matching padded hanger for your garment like the one shown with the dress. This particular hanger is tied with sparkle organza ribbon, and took me 45 minutes to make from start to finish. The pattern is available from my website, www.berryhillheirlooms.com, and is called “Berryhill Heirlooms Covered and Padded Hanger”. The wood hangers are also available and can easily be cut down to fit any size garment, from 18” doll dress up to children’s clothing, and of course, full size adult size hangers.

The pattern for the dress is Children’s Corner “Emily”, which has a “slightly scooped neckline” according to the pattern description. In order to substitute the smocked collar I had to re-draw the neckline higher, which was easy to do using Children’s Corner “Lee” (a basic yoke that has a smocked collar in View C). I added a small piece of tissue paper to the Emily front yoke neckline and laid the same size front yoke of Emily over the same size front yoke of “Lee”, and drew the Lee neckline onto the Emily neckline. The same alterations were done to the Emily yoke lining pieces and the back yoke. I used the smocked collar measurements from the Lee pattern for the smocked collar cutting the width at 5½” for this size 8 dress. The lace is stitched with the usual heirloom zigzag combination and then finished with a machine Madeira pinstitch using DMC Machine Embroidery 50wt thread (which is actually the same thickness as a 60wt thread). The collar opens in the front and the lace edging (L-17 from Bear Threads) aligns with the center front of the front yoke.

In order to make sure the collar lays flat and doesn’t roll I used piping around the neckline to strengthen the seam. I first pinned the collar to the yoke front, collar wrong side against yoke right side, and basted it in place. Then I laid the piping over the collar and basted it in place from front fold line to front fold line after removing about ½” of cord from each end of the piping. Proceed with the pattern instructions to place the right side of the yoke lining over the basted yoke/collar/piping and stitch the neckline together using the piping basting line as a guide. The result of adding the piping is a beautifully laying collar that has the smocking at Row 1 highlighted by the piping. Your little girl or granddaughter will love this elegant, tailored Easter dress for any occasion!

Harlequin A Smocking Design by Susie Gay of Berryhill Heirlooms

This design can be adjusted to fit any size of Bishop, Basic

Yoke or smocked collar by adding or subtracting the

number of 5-step trellis rows. For this design on a girl’s

size 8 dress pleat 9 rows, with Rows 1 and 9 as holding

rows. Row 2 of pleating is Row 1 of smocking design. All

smocking is done with three strands of stranded cotton

embroidery floss. Only two colors are used in the design in

addition to one to match the collar fabric.

1. Find center 2 pleats and mark. Backsmock (cable) Row

1 with 2 strands of embroidery thread to match the collar

fabric.

2. Row 1: Start with an up cable on center and cable across

row in color #1. Turn fabric upside down and cable across

to complete the other side. Change to color #2 and stack

cables across right next to the previous cable row with an

up cable next to the down cable of the previous cable row.

Change back to Color #1 for Rows 2-7.

3. Row 1-2: Starting at design center, complete a down

cable at Row 2 and a baby wave up to the down cable of

Color #2. Complete three cables (up, down, up), then baby

wave down to Row 2 and complete a down cable,

continuing in this manner across the row. Turn fabric

upside down and complete the same series of stitches from

center to the other side of the fabric.

4. Row 2-3: Starting at design center using color #1,

complete a down cable at Row 3 and a 5-step trellis up to

Row 2. Complete one up cable and a 5-step trellis back

down to Row 3 and one down cable. Continue the cable, 5-

step trellis and cable sequence across the row. Turn fabric

upside down and complete the same pattern from design

center to the other side of the fabric.

5. Rows 3-4: Complete the cable, 5-step trellis, cable

across between Rows 3 and 4.

6. Rows 4-5: Complete the cable, 5-step trellis, cable

across between Rows 4 and 5.

7. Rows 5-6: Complete the cable, 5-step trellis, cable

across between Rows 5 and 6.

8. Rows 6-7: Complete the cable, 5-step trellis, cable

across between Rows 6 and 7.

9. Row 7: Change to Color #2 and complete cable, 5-step

trellis, cable right next to the completed one in Color #1.

Change back to Color #1 and complete the cable, 5-step

trellis, cable right next to the previous one in Color #2.

German China Dolls by

Louise Hedrick

The production of China (glazed porcelain) dolls

began in Germany in the late 1830’s. Originally

there were only three companies engaged in this

activity. Shortly afterwards this would greatly

expand. Until recently little was known about

the origin of the individual dolls and who made

them. Their heads were unmarked and doll

resource books simply stated “maker unknown”.

In recent years, by excavating the grounds

around the ancient factories, broken shards

have surfaced. This, added to archives from the

factories and a study of the various painting

styles and colors, has provided a window into

this early period of German doll production.

When we talk about “Chinas” we are usually

referring just to the shoulderhead. Factory

bodies were few and didn’t last long. China

arms and legs were available separately.

However, most of these mass produced dolls

arrived in this country as just a shoulderhead

for clever mothers to finish with an all-cloth or

leather body which they would then go on to

costume in the styles of the period.

Their date of manufacture is largely identified by

their hair style. Fashion magazines were eager

to draw these styles for their customers and the

sculptors followed this closely. One of the first

to make its appearance was the hair style of

Queen Victoria on her wedding day in 1840

upon her marriage to Prince Albert. See photo

#1. She wore her hair in a center part, with

braids on the side looped to the back with ears

exposed. She had worn this hair style since she

was crowned queen at Westminster Abbey in

June 1838. Almost every doll maker produced a

likeness to this style. See photo #2 from the

Kister china company.

The china pictured in photo #3 came into my

collection from the original family that had

owned her since before the Civil War in Georgia.

She is known today as a “Grenier-type” china

because of the resemblance to the papier mache

dolls made and patented by Ludwig Grenier of

Philadelphia in 1858. This all original doll is 14”

tall. She is poured in pure white porcelain with

black painted hair and brown eyes. Judging

from the sewing techniques, her body and

clothing were made by the same person. This

china shoulderhead was made in Germany from

the 1850’s to 1867. In 2009 I lent her to the

Doll Artisan Guild International to be molded as

their souvenir doll for their convention. The

reproduction is pictured in phone #4. Both dolls

have a cloth body, but the Guild added china

arms to their version.

German China Dolls

The productions of China (glazed porcelain) dolls began in Germany in the late 1830's. Originally there were only three companies engaged in this activity. Shortly afterwards this would greatly expand. Until recently little was known about the origin of the individual dolls and who made them. Their heads were unmarked and doll resource books simply stated "maker unknown." In recent years, by excavating the grounds around the ancient factories, broken shards have surfaced. This, added to archives from the factories and a study of the various painting styles and colors, has provided a window into this early period of German doll production.

When we talk about "Chinas" we are usually referring just to the shoulderhead. Factory bodies were few and didn't last long. China arms and legs were available separately. However, most of these mass

produced dolls arrived in this country as just a shoulderhead for clever mothers to finish with an all-cloth or leather body which they would then go on to costume in the styles of the period.

Their date of manufacture is largely identified by their hair style. Fashion magazines were eager to draw these styles for their customers and the sculptors followed this closely. One of the first to make its appearance was the hair style of Queen Victoria on her wedding day in 1840 upon her marriage to Prince Albert. See photo #1. She wore her hair in a center part, with braids on the side looped to the back with ears exposed. She had worn this hair style since she was crowned queen at Westminster Abbey in June 1838. Almost every doll maker produced a likeness to this style. See photo #2 from the Kister china company.

The china pictured in photo #3 came into my collection from the original family that had owned her since before the Civil War in Georgia. She is known today as a "Grenier-type" china because of the resemblance to the papier mache dolls made and patented by Ludwig Grenier of Philadelphia in 1858. This all original doll is 14" tall. She is poured in a pure white porcelain with black painted hair and brown eyes. Judging from the sewing techniques, her body and clothing were made by the same person. This china shoulderhead was made in Germany from the 1850's to 1867. In 2009 I lent her to the Doll Artisan Guild International to be molded as their souvenir doll for their convention. The reproduction is pictured in photo #4. Both dolls have a cloth body, but the Guild added china arms to their version.

The odds of finding a four-leaf clover have been

calculated at 10,000 to 1! If you do find one, you

are lucky indeed.

‘SPSP’

St. Paddy’s Slumber Party!

It has been such a busy 2 months for

Annabelle and Ping, and the bitter cold in

Connecticut continues. I am sure all of our

readers have been hearing about all the

snow they have endured this winter in the

Northeast. Annabelle and Ping decided

instead of another ski weekend, and travel

being so wretched, they would play hostess

to their friends for a St. Patrick’s Day

Slumber Party. There was much to watch on

the TV …all of the March Madness

basketball games and St. Patrick’s Day

Parades. And there were many details that

needed attention before their trip to

Atlanta in April. (More about that next

month!) Curling up in front of a fireplace,

munching and watching TV sounded like just

the thing to do. They asked their friends to

wear green in celebration of St. Patrick’s

Day and what a wonderful array of green

loungewear appeared! There was a lovely

Print Pique in Jade Green, Spring Green in

Faille, Wintergreen Dotted Swiss gown,

Cotton Flannel in Wintergreen (Oh so

soft!), Forest Green was represented in

Mini Micro checks and Cotton Flannel, and

the pajamas in Seafoam green Voile Stripe

Dotted Swiss and Bearissima was to die

for. Who knew there were so many shades

of GREEN?

PS – For those who love the Voile Stripe

Dotted Swiss, we just might have some

wonderful news about it being available

again soon!!!

What a fun night the girls had! Lots of food and fun.

Ping and Annabelle planned for days and invited their closest friends from school.

Pajamas in Forest Green Micro-Check with Forest Green

Flannel applique. Pajamas in Spring Green Faille.

Wintergreen Cotton Flannel nightgown. Pajamas in

Jade Green Print Pique.

Wintergreen Dotted Swiss nightgown. Pajamas in

Seaform Voile Striped Dotted Swiss/Seafoam

Bearissima with E-29 in Seafoam.

FYI St. Patrick’s Day in Singapore

At the slumber party Ping shared with her friends a bit of trivia from her home in Singapore. It seems St. Patrick’s Day in Singapore is quite an occasion as well. One famous Irish Pub, Molly Malones, has the honor of being the first Irish Pub to open in Singapore. It was designed and built in Ireland and shipped to Singapore where it was re-assembled at Circular Road along Singapore’s famous Boat Quay area. It is a unique Irish experience with a beautiful Singapore influence and has been dishing up food and drink since 1995…and now you know!

National Quilt Day

National Quilt Day is March 21st. It

celebrates quilts and those who make them.

The National Quilting Association started

National Quilt Day in 1991 and is always

the 3rd

Saturday in March.

Toasting to all of you quilters out there, I

share this quote:

“Quilters know they have had enough coffee

when they can thread a machine needle

while it is still running!”

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Sewing for Dolls Tip #3

Different kinds of closures are

available for doll clothes, from buttons

to Velcro. For baby dolls and other

dolls for small children Velcro is a

good choice. For older girls other

closures will work.

Buttons and buttonholes are a pretty

finish to a really nice outfit.

Buttons can also be used in conjunction

with snaps.