Bead Jewellery Basics

8112019 Bead Jewellery Basics

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Beads Materials amp Tools 2Beads 2Findings 3Treads and Wires 4ools and Other Equipment 5

Basic Bead Jewellery Techniques 6Necklace Treading 6

Method 1 Nylon-coated Wire with Crimp Beads 6Method 2 Nylon-coated Wire with Gimp and Crimp Beads 7Method 3 Nylon-coated Wire with Crimp Beads and Clamshell Calottes 7

Beading Treads 8Method 4 Gimp with Beading Tread 8Method 5 Using Beading Tread with Clamshell Calottes 8Method 6 Tong or Cord with Box Calottes and Jump Rings 9

Basic Earring Making 9Method 7 Headpins 9Method 8 Nylon-coated Wire 10

om Beaded Jewellery by Barbara Case CD ROM book from wwwrainbowdiskscom



Tis section provides an introduction to the different kinds o beadwidely available together with a guide to the simple tools and basic ma-terials that the bead jewellery maker needs such as pliers and scissors

findings (clasps and so on) thread and wire However when you cometo work though the projects it will be apparent that you donrsquot needeverything itemized here or each project

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With every project you will find an lsquoingredientrsquo list that tells you whattype o beads are used Tis enables you to ollow the design exactlybut be aware that you can achieve alternative results by using differentbeads and I like to think that my designs will inspire you to experimentand create your own unique jewellery Te most popular varieties o

bead are listed below together with a brie description o each

Rocaille BeadsTese tiny glass beads are also known as seed beads Sizes range rom1ndash5mm Tey are sold by weight or packet size

Bugle BeadsTese tubular glass beads are mostly small ranging rom 2 times 5mm to2 times 10mm but giant bugles are also available that may be 5 times 50mm insize Tey are usually sold by weight or packet size

Larger Glass BeadsGlass beads vary enormously rom plainly coloured mass-producedpressed beads and diamond-like aceted crystals to elaborate lampbeads such as the one shown among the most attractive beads on offer

Metal BeadsTese beads also appear in an enormous variety rom plain base-metal2mm rounds through to large intricately worked silver or exquisitecloisonneacute and enamel

Acrylic Resin and Plastic BeadsTis type o bead is usually inexpensive brightly coloured and unand thereore useul or making jewellery or children However at theother end o the scale there are classy-looking beads available to suitmore sophisticated tastes

PearlsReal pearls are antastically expensive but cheaper options are avail-able Tese are made rom substances ranging rom pearlized plastic tocultured examples o the real thing Some are copies o real pearls butothers are colourul lustred beads that owe little to nature

2

S983137983142983141983156983161 983142983151983154 C983144983145983148983140983154983141983150Because beads are small theyshould be kept out o the reach

o very young children It is alsoadvisable to supervise olderchildren when bead jewellerymaking until they becomecompetent at handling the toolssharp wires and so on




Bone Horn and Wooden BeadsBeads made rom these natural sources have been around or as long asMan has been beading and there is a wide range o styles available tous rom the simple coloured wooden beads o childhood to intricately

hand-crafed carved bone

Semi-precious Stone Beadsoday the choice o semi-precious stone beads is vast and beads maderom all types o stone are easy to obtain in a wide variety o sizes andshapes

Ceramic BeadsTese have been around or many thousands o years and many differ-ent styles are available rom the rough terracotta beads o Arica to thefine painted porcelain varieties o China

Et al

Anyone who becomes really interested in beads will soon discover thatthere are more types available than those listed above and you will findexamples made rom or instance polymer clay seeds natural resinsand shell

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Findings are the metal components that are needed to complete nearlyevery piece o jewellery rom the clasp to asten a necklace and thehook rom which to hang an earring they are the essential lsquonuts andboltsrsquo that make jewellery work

Te Nickel IssueMany people will be aware that this metal which has been used in themanuacture o jewellery findings or many years can cause allergicreactions Consequently in recent times the EU brought in a directivethat reduced the amount o nickel allowed in such products to minuteproportions and disallowed the sale o jewellery containing highernickel content However not all countries adhere to these restrictions

and in the USA or example nickel is still used in some jewellery met-als I this issue affects you and you purchase products made in a non-EU country check out the nickel content or yoursel

3

You will notice that some metalfindings and other materialslisted in the project ingredientsappear within quotation marksor example lsquogoldrsquo Tis indicatesthat the metal is imitation




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One o the biggest advances in beading has been inthe materials on which beads can be strung oday the

choice o bead threading materials is huge

TreadsTese are available in various materials includingstrong man-made materials and traditional silk All areobtainable in a wide range o colours and thicknesses

Nylon-coated WireTis is now requently the threading material o choiceand or strength and ease o use it is incomparableTere are two main types One is generally known as

tiger-tail this is the least strong and flexible and byar the most inexpensive Te other type is known asflexible nylon-coated wire which is very strong andsupple and is my usual choice o threading mediumTe best-known brands o this type are Beadalon andSofflex Both types are available in a variety o coloursand thicknesses

Cord and TongTe choice o beading thong and cord is also huge andmany purpose-made examples are available Howevercreative beaders can also select cord rom haberdash-ery shops or even make their own rom embroiderythreads specially chosen to match their beads

WiresJewellery wires are available in a wide range o coloursand qualities Ofen these are simply coloured-coatedcopper but or the most upmarket jewellery anodizedniobium is available Tis expensive material is idealor those with allergies and can be used to produce

beautiul long-lasting jewellery o superior quality

Memory WireTis is another wire worthy o separate mention greator making simple jewellery Available in long coils ohard wire its uncut appearance is similar to that stair-creeping toy o childhood the Slinky It remembers itsshape so that when you pull it apart to thread beads orto wear it springs back to a round and needs no claspto asten in place It is made in three different diam-eters suitable or choker necklaces bracelets and rings




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Anyone can start beading with nothing more than a sharp pair o scis-sors and a small pair o household pliers but as you become involved

with this ascinating hobby you will eventually want to purchase toolsthat make the tasks easier or you

Te main tools required or making bead jewellery are pliers and thesecome in a variety o types Tey are also available in several qualitiesand as the saying goes lsquoyou get what you pay orrsquo Te very best areGerman and usually cost over pound20 (about $40) Tese are very highquality and should last a lietime (my own pair are nearly 30 years old)but those costing less than hal the price do the same job are perectlyserviceable and are pictured in the accompanying photograph

General-purpose Beading PliersTese are a miniature version o household pliers their small size aidsdexterity You can use them to do all the jobs that are required in bead-ing but more specialist pliers (see below) are very helpul

Round-nosed PliersTe sole purpose o round-nosed pliers is to aid the smooth bending owire Tey are invaluable i you intend to make a lot o earrings

Cutting PliersTese are useul when you need to cut with accuracy or in an area thatis not easy to access with a pair o general-purpose pliers

Crimp PliersTese specialist pliers are or use with high-quality crimp beads (seeStep 3 Method 1 page 9) Tey produce a neat finish to the crimp

Beading raysTere are purpose made to make lie easy or the beader However youcan work at beading very easily using a domestic tray and several smallflat containers to hold your beads (I find the plastic lids rom tubes o

savoury snacks perect or this) and in some ways this approach canbe preerable to the purpose-made tray which will give you less spaceA pucker beading tray however comes into its own when designingas the beads can be laid in the proposed order o threading within itsnecklace-shaped grooves

Bead ReamerTis useul tool enables you to enlarge most beads holes with ease or tosmooth the rough edges o bead holes It consists o a hand-held tubecontaining three different sizes and shapes o round file and at one endo the tube is a small chuck into which the required file is fitted




Most o the simple techniques involved in the projects are containedwithin this chapter so print these pages (9ndash13) or quick easy reer-ence When browsing the disk you can go quickly to any o these

techniques by clicking on its bookmark (go to top lef o this pd docu-ment) More specialist techniques are included with the projects

Te ollowing tools and equipment are required or most projects

beading tray or household tray with separate shallow containersbull

scissorsbull

cutting round and flat-nosed pliers or a small pairbull

o general-purpose pliers

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Most necklace making involves threading beads onto beading threadnylon-coated wire jewellery wire leather thong or cord and there are

various methods o attaching these threading mediums to a clasp Temost commonly used o these are demonstrated below

Method 1 Nylon-coated Wire with Crimp BeadsModern nylon-coated wire provides a flexible strong and simple choiceor threading beads It is made in various diameters that or simplicityI call fine medium and thick For each project unless I state otherwiseyou should assume that the wire used is medium but as a basic rulethe lighter the beads the finer the wire should be

1 Tread a crimp bead onto one end o the nylon-coated wire andthen thread the wire through the loop o one part o the clasp Tenthread the wire back through the crimp bead to make a small loop

2 Use pliers to close the crimp bead to secure it to the wire ndash seephotos or the use o general-purpose pliers Note or simplicity andclarity photos are shown with non-coated wire

3 I using specialist crimp pliers this involves a two-part process asthere are two sets o grooves in their lsquojawsrsquo First place the crimp intothe inner groove and squeeze the pliers then place it into the outergroove and squeeze the pliers again ndash this has the effect o rounding thecrimp

4 Afer securing the crimp bead use cutting pliers to trim the sparewire so that it appears as in the photo

6

o begin a project assembleall the ingredients on apurpose-made beading tray

or a household tray withseparate shallow containers

Method 1 Step 4

Method 1 Step 3

Method 1 Step 2

Method 1 Step 1




Method 2 Nylon-coated Wire with Gimp and Crimp BeadsTis is the same as Method 1 but instead o leaving the wire loop bareit is covered with gimp or a more attractive and proessional finishGimp (sometimes known as French wire or buillon) is a fine very flex-

ible tube o gold or silver coiled wire which is sold in long lengths thatare then cut into short pieces

1 Using a pair o cutting pliers cut an 8mm (⅜in) length o gimpFollow the instructions in Method 1 page 9 but afer threading on thecrimp bead in Step 1 thread on the length o gimp to cover the wire

Method 3 Nylon-coated Wire with Crimp Beadsand Clamshell CalottesTis is a very easy method o attaching a clasp and gives a neat finish

1 Apply a crimp bead to the end o a length o nylon-coated wire andsqueeze it firmly in place (see Method 1 page 9) Ten thread throughthe hole o a clamshell calotte and pull the wire through so that thecrimp bead sits inside the lsquoshellrsquo o the calotte

2 Use cutting pliers to trim any spare wire then use general-purposepliers to close the calotte Use the same pliers to open the loop o thecalotte and attach it to the clasp then use the pliers again to close thecalotte loop

7

Method 2 nylon-coated wire with

gimp and crimp beads

Method 3 Step 2 the calotte attachedto a clasp

Method 3 Step 1 threading on a

clamshell calotte

o ensure that there isno visible thread on yourfinished necklace beoreattaching the final part othe clasp hold the threadedbeads as shown so that theyall slide down to take upany slack thread




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Tere are many beading threads rom which to choose varying romsynthetic to real silk (which ofen comes ready threaded with a flexible

needle) and most are available in a wide range o colours I use beadingthread in two situations firstly when the beads are very lightweightand secondly when I want the thread to show as in knotting when thethread becomes an integral part o the design As with nylon-coatedwire there are several ways o attaching beading thread to a clasp

Method 4 Gimp with Beading Tread1 Tread an 8mm (⅜in) length o gimp onto your beading threadthen thread through the loop o one part o the clasp Ensure that thethreaded gimp sits inside the clasp loop and a 5cm (2in) length othread is lef at one end Ten use this short length o thread to tie an

overhand knot around the other side o the thread

2 Pull the knot tight and use a headpin to apply a tiny touch osuperglue to the knot to seal it then trim any spare thread Do not getsuperglue on your beads

Method 5 Using Beading Tread with Clamshell CalottesTis method is ideal or beginners and those who are unsure aboutmaking neat knots

1 ake your length o thread and tie a double overhand knot in oneend Alternatively tie on a small rocaille bead

2 Use a headpin to apply a tiny touch o superglue to the knot thentrim any spare thread As in Method 3 page 10 thread on a clamshellcalotte so that the knot (or the bead) sits inside the lsquoshellrsquo o the calottethen use pliers to close the calotte and attach it to the clasp Tismethod can also be used with cord but you will need to use a largerbead and clamshell calotte

8

983144983154983141983137983140983145983150983143 W983145983156983144983151983157983156 983137 N983141983141983140983148983141When using beading thread you will need either to use aneedle or threading or stiffen the thread by using superglueFor the latter dip the first 5cm (2in) o one end o your threadinto a bottle o liquid superglue Allow a second or two or itto penetrate the thread and then remove it and swifly wipe offthe excess with a tissue Te thread will now be stiff enoughor threading but it is also helpul to cut across it diagonally toprovide a sharp point (be careul not to get any glue on yourfingers)

Method 4 gimp with beading thread

Method 5 Step 1 tie a double overhand

knot or tie on a rocaille bead




Method 6 Tong or Cord with Box Calottes and Jump RingsTere are various styles o necklace end available or use with thongbut they all work on a similar principle that is they cover the end othe thong and are secured in place by being squeezed onto the thong

with pliers In the method shown here I demonstrate the use o a boxcalotte which is both neat and effective It is useul or all types othong such as leather suede cotton cord rat-tail ribbon or handmadecords and although the diagrams show just one piece o aux suede thesame method can be used or multiple lengths o suede or cord

1 Using flat-nosed or general-purpose pliers bend first one side othe box calotte and then the other side over and down onto the thong

2 Use general-purpose pliers to open a jump ring sideways Treadthe jump ring through the loop o the box calotte and then thread on

the loop o one part o the clasp

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Making beaded earrings is simple once you have mastered the art omaking loops in wire Most designs are based on beads threaded ontoheadpins which are then cut to size and linked either straight onto anear-wire a link or other beaded headpins

Method 7 Headpinso make one pair o earrings you will need


beads as required or your designbull

2 headpins (normally 5cm2in but other sizes are available)bull

2 ear-hooks ear-studs or ear-clipsbull

round-nosed and cutting pliers (it is possible to use general-purposebull

pliers but it will be more difficult to orm a good loop)

1 Place all your components on a beading tray or household tray

with separate shallow containers Select your beads and thread thoseor one earring onto a headpin

2 Use the round-nosed pliers to bend the wire over at a right angleclose to the top bead then use cutting pliers to trim any spare wireleaving about 8ndash10mm (⅜in)

3 Use round-nosed pliers to orm a loop with the end o the wireFor the best results do this gradually not in one motion Attach to aready-made ear-hook or other type o ear-fitting by opening the loopsideways (as or a jump ring ndash see Method 6 above)

9

Method 6 Step 2

Method 6 Step 1

I possible always open jumprings or other metal loops

sideways as simply pulling the joint apart weakens it

Method 7 Step 1

Ready to attach to

an ear-hook

Method 7 Step 3

Method 7 Step 2




Once your earring has its headpinloop it can be attached to an ear-hook or other type o ear-fittingHowever you may decide to addanother length o beaded head-pin as shown right to give a fluidmovement or attach your beadedheadpin to a link

Some ear-hooks are supplied un-finished (straight-leg ear-hooks)so you can add coordinatingbeads and make them up yourselas shown right

Method 8 Nylon-coated WireAs an alternative to using head-pins in earrings I ofen use nylon-coated wire and crimp beads Tismethod o suspending beads gives

a fluid movement to the finishedearrings and can also be used tomake beaded drops to hang roma necklace clasp or pendantReer to the instructions orapplying a crimp bead to nylon-coated wire in Method 1 page 9and ollow the photos opposite

Anodized niobium ear-hooks such as these areavailable in a range obeautiul colours that canbe damaged by roughhandling so when orm-ing loops cover the jawso your pliers with clearadhesive tape to protectthe colour finish




Tis section provides an introduction to the different kinds o beadwidely available together with a guide to the simple tools and basic ma-terials that the bead jewellery maker needs such as pliers and scissors

findings (clasps and so on) thread and wire However when you cometo work though the projects it will be apparent that you donrsquot needeverything itemized here or each project

B983141983137983140983155

With every project you will find an lsquoingredientrsquo list that tells you whattype o beads are used Tis enables you to ollow the design exactlybut be aware that you can achieve alternative results by using differentbeads and I like to think that my designs will inspire you to experimentand create your own unique jewellery Te most popular varieties o

bead are listed below together with a brie description o each

Rocaille BeadsTese tiny glass beads are also known as seed beads Sizes range rom1ndash5mm Tey are sold by weight or packet size

Bugle BeadsTese tubular glass beads are mostly small ranging rom 2 times 5mm to2 times 10mm but giant bugles are also available that may be 5 times 50mm insize Tey are usually sold by weight or packet size

Larger Glass BeadsGlass beads vary enormously rom plainly coloured mass-producedpressed beads and diamond-like aceted crystals to elaborate lampbeads such as the one shown among the most attractive beads on offer

Metal BeadsTese beads also appear in an enormous variety rom plain base-metal2mm rounds through to large intricately worked silver or exquisitecloisonneacute and enamel

Acrylic Resin and Plastic BeadsTis type o bead is usually inexpensive brightly coloured and unand thereore useul or making jewellery or children However at theother end o the scale there are classy-looking beads available to suitmore sophisticated tastes

PearlsReal pearls are antastically expensive but cheaper options are avail-able Tese are made rom substances ranging rom pearlized plastic tocultured examples o the real thing Some are copies o real pearls butothers are colourul lustred beads that owe little to nature

2

S983137983142983141983156983161 983142983151983154 C983144983145983148983140983154983141983150Because beads are small theyshould be kept out o the reach

o very young children It is alsoadvisable to supervise olderchildren when bead jewellerymaking until they becomecompetent at handling the toolssharp wires and so on








Et al


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3





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scissorsbull



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6



Method 1 Step 4

Method 1 Step 3

Method 1 Step 2

Method 1 Step 1










7





clamshell calotte





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8













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Method 6 Step 2

Method 6 Step 1



Method 7 Step 1

Ready to attach to

an ear-hook

Method 7 Step 3

Method 7 Step 2
















Et al


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scissorsbull



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Method 1 Step 4

Method 1 Step 3

Method 1 Step 2

Method 1 Step 1










7





clamshell calotte





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8













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Method 6 Step 2

Method 6 Step 1



Method 7 Step 1

Ready to attach to

an ear-hook

Method 7 Step 3

Method 7 Step 2












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scissorsbull



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Method 1 Step 4

Method 1 Step 3

Method 1 Step 2

Method 1 Step 1










7





clamshell calotte





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8













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Method 6 Step 2

Method 6 Step 1



Method 7 Step 1

Ready to attach to

an ear-hook

Method 7 Step 3

Method 7 Step 2












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scissorsbull



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Method 1 Step 4

Method 1 Step 3

Method 1 Step 2

Method 1 Step 1










7





clamshell calotte





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8













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Method 6 Step 2

Method 6 Step 1



Method 7 Step 1

Ready to attach to

an ear-hook

Method 7 Step 3

Method 7 Step 2
















scissorsbull



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Method 1 Step 4

Method 1 Step 3

Method 1 Step 2

Method 1 Step 1










7





clamshell calotte





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8













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Method 6 Step 2

Method 6 Step 1



Method 7 Step 1

Ready to attach to

an ear-hook

Method 7 Step 3

Method 7 Step 2


















7





clamshell calotte





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Method 6 Step 2

Method 6 Step 1



Method 7 Step 1

Ready to attach to

an ear-hook

Method 7 Step 3

Method 7 Step 2












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Method 6 Step 2

Method 6 Step 1



Method 7 Step 1

Ready to attach to

an ear-hook

Method 7 Step 3

Method 7 Step 2

















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Method 6 Step 2

Method 6 Step 1



Method 7 Step 1

Ready to attach to

an ear-hook

Method 7 Step 3

Method 7 Step 2










Bead Jewellery Basics

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Transcript of Bead Jewellery Basics