Basic Principles for Formulating Cosmetic Pigments€¦ · silky to glittering luster | Transparent...

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Basic Principles for Formulating Cosmetic Pigments

Transcript of Basic Principles for Formulating Cosmetic Pigments€¦ · silky to glittering luster | Transparent...

Page 1: Basic Principles for Formulating Cosmetic Pigments€¦ · silky to glittering luster | Transparent ... a pigment of different interference color (e. g. gold). This effect also cannot

Basic Principles for FormulatingCosmetic Pigments

Page 2: Basic Principles for Formulating Cosmetic Pigments€¦ · silky to glittering luster | Transparent ... a pigment of different interference color (e. g. gold). This effect also cannot

Why are pearlescent pigments used in rinse-off and gel products?

Spice up your marketing conceptsNew possible claims (e.g. ”silk & shine“)Attract customers’ attentionImprove the product appearance and acceptanceDifferentiation versus competitors at the point of saleBrand recognitionDiversification of product rangeIndividualization

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Pearlescent pigments will provide an irresistible shine of silver, gold or a rainbow of beautiful colors. The use of substrate-based pearl pigments in shampoo formulations creates iridescent effects which cannot be achieved with conventional stearate pearling agents. These pigments are ideally incorporated into transparent products.

In combination with dyes and/or other color pigments, pearl luster pigments enable the creation of a multitude of colorful luster effects with an impressive color shade and brilliance.

Transparent packaging is highly recommended for those products. They will stand out in the wide range of cosmetic rinse-off products.

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Effect of concentration

Required attributes Base Recommended pigmentsUsage concentration

Rinse-off and gel products with luxury pearl effects

| Transparent |Timiron® Silverwhite Pigments, Ronastar® Noble Sparks, Ronastar® Silver, Timiron® Interference Pigments or Ronastar® Interference Pigments | 0.05 – 0.3 %

| Opaque |Timiron® Silverwhite Pigments, Ronastar® Noble Sparks, Ronastar® Silver, Timiron® Interference Pigments or Ronastar® Interference Pigments | 0.5 – 1.0 %

Colored products with strong silky to glittering luster |

Transparent or opaque | Colorona® Metallic Pigments | 0.2 – 0.4 %

Skin coloring gel products |Transparent or opaque | Colorona® Earth-tone Pigments | 0.5 – 5.0 %

Recommended pearl luster pigments

Recommended pigments typeAppearance (mass tone) Effects* Comment

Silverwhite Pigments | White | Silver luster; silky to glittering | Slight brightening of the bulk tone

Interference Pigments | White |Gold, copper, red, violet, blue or green luster; silky to glittering | Slight brightening of the bulk tone

Xirona® Color Travel Pigments with TiO2 coating | White |Color changing effects in combination with background colors | Slight brightening of the bulk tone

* Effect achieved depends upon particle size of pigment.

Use the most transparent formulation possibleThe less opacity the formulation has, the better is the visible effect, and the lower is the concentration needed. Opaque formulations require higher pigment levels, because light scattering reduces pearlescence.

Create your colorUse a colored (water/oil soluble dyes) or non-colored base formulation and add a small amount of pearl pigments to add shine and highlights. Pearl luster pigments can be combined with all types of organic water- or oil-soluble dyes. By combining interference or color-travel pigments with background colors a unique „two-color” effect is created, in which the appearance varies with the angle of viewing.

Effect of particle sizeSmall particles create silky and satiny effects, opacify the mass and impart richer appearance. Larger sized particles will provide high luster, sparkling or glittering effects. The formulation will stay almost transparent.

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Pearl pigments do not tend to agglomerate but disperse evenly. The pearl pigment should be added to the water (or oil) phase before the anti-settling agent is dispersed. To achieve an almost bubble-free formula-tion, stir with low agitation.

Stabilization of pearl pigments in rinse-off and gel products

In highly viscous systems (hair styling gels, after sun gels, hydro gels) pearl luster pigments are stabilized within the gel base. Only in low viscous systems (shower gels, shampoos, and bath products) do pearl luster pigments need to be stabilized against sedimentation. An increase in viscosity alone will not prevent settling; a thixotropic gel is needed. The listed thickeners build a gel network which is compatible with many deter-gent systems.

A pearl shimmer effect may be achieved by adding a single silver pigment.

Attractive effects can be created by highlighting the base color, e. g. green, with a green interference pigment (e. g. Timiron® Splendid Green). The luster of the interference color will underline the mass tone. This effect cannot be obtained by using pearlizing agents.

Two-tone and unusual effects can be created if the base color (e. g. orange or brown) is combined with a pigment of different interference color (e. g. gold). This effect also cannot be achieved with pearlizing agents.

Eye-catching effects can be achieved by using our Xirona® Color Travel Pigments. They can be used alone or in combination with light colored background (water soluble dye). Only small amounts of pigment (up from 0.05 % pigment concentration) are necessary to result in stunning effects.

Product Anti-settling agent (INCI name) Tradename (Manufacturer) Concentration

Shower Gel / Shampoo

| Xanthan Gum |Keltrol – Various Grades (Monsanto) | 0.7 – 1.0 %

| Xanthan Gum (and) Hectorite (and) Cellulose Gum |Thickagent LC(Les Colorants Wackherr) | 0.7 – 1.0 %

| Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer | Carbopol ETD 2020 (Lubrizol) | 0.7 – 1.0 %

| Acrylates/Palmeth-25 Acrylate Copolymer | Synthalen W 2000 (3V) | 0.7 – 1.0 %

| Magnesium Aluminum Silicate and Hydroxypropylcellulose |Veegum HV (Vanderbilt) and Klucel G (Hercules) | 0.7 – 1.0 %

|Sodium Acrylate (and) Sodium Acryoyldimethyl Taurate (and) Isohexadecane (and) Polysorbate 80 | Simugel EG (Seppic) | 2.0 – 5.0 %

|Acrylates / Aminoacrylates / C10-30 Alkyl PEG-20 Itaconate Copolymer |

Structure Plus (National Starch & Chem. Ltd.) | 7.0 – 10.0 %

| Acrylates Copolymer |Carbopol Aqua SF-1 Polymer (Lubrizol) | 5.0 %

| Acrylates Crosspolymer | WorléeAqua Thix 100 (Worlée) | 2.0 – 10.0 %

Oil Gel / Bath Oil

| Silica | Aerosil (Evonik) | 1.0 – 4.0 %

| Dextrin Palmitate | Rheopearl KL (Ciba) | 2.0 – 10.0 %Pearl pigments containing carmine, chromium oxide, chromium hydroxide or ferric ferrocyanide should not be used in rinse-off or gel products because of their stability problems in water-based systems. Pigments containing Fe3O4 face stability problems in acidic solutions and may react with phosphates.

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