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Market and Ship PlantsBalled and Burlapped Process

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Balled and BurlappedBalled and burlapped, otherwise known as B & B are transplants shipped to theconsumer after having been planted, dug up and wrapped. Balled refers to the root

ball has been dug up while burlapped refers to the wrapping material used for transporting these trees and shrubs. The burlap is used to hold the soil together and issecured with string, wire or twine.

Balling and burlapping trees and shrubs is one way of packaging them for market.This practice is usually done with large trees and with conifers and evergreens of various sizes.

Generally the larger sizes of deciduous types and all evergreen types of field grownnursery stock are dug as balled and burlapped, balled and potted or balled and bagged.It is important to dig the appropriate size ball for a particular size plant. These ball sizesshould always be of a diameter and depth large enough to contain the roots necessaryfor transplanting.Industry standards recommend the minimum sizes for these balls for different plants.

The recommended ball sizes are as follows;For plants with a diameter of less than 20 inches, the depth should not be lessthan 75% of diameter or of width.For plants with a diameter of 20- 30 inches, the depth should not be less than66 2/3% or 2/3 width.For plants with a diameter of 31- 48 inches, the depth should not be less than

60% or 3/5 of with. Balls with a diameter of 30 inches or more should bedrumlaced.

The following table outlines the advantages and disadvantages of this type of root form.

Advantages DisadvantagesLarger materials can be transplanted Usually the most expensiveLess damage to the root system Soil ball adds weight and bulk which add

to shipping costCan be transplanted at any time or season Expensive installation equipment required

for larger plants.

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Guidelines for digging and processing the plants

Smaller trees can be dug by hand while larger trees are dug mechanically (usingmechanical spades).The plants should be dug so as to retain as many fibrous roots as possible, andshould be handled in such a way that the ball will not be loosened to causestripping of the small feeding roots or cause the soil to drop away from theseroots.You should ensure that the soil ball is round, not flat and misshapen. It shouldcontain enough roots to ensure survival of the plants, yet not be too heavy.The plants should be taken from the field immediately after digging and placed

in a cool humid area and the root balls watered in order to minimize water stress.Use squares of burlap large enough to cover the ball. These are available pre-cutor they can be cut off a roll. Burlap is also available in treated (rot-resistant) or untreated form. Treated burlap is more expensive but is needed if the plants areto be stored unplanted for a while. Untreated burlap can be used when the plantsare going to be transplanted soon after harvest.The burlap should be secured with twine. Larger plants can be secured using thetechnique of drum-lacing, in which twine is wrapped around the ball then lacedin a zigzag pattern.Balled and burlapped plants are quite heavy. They require special equipment

and careful handling. All plants should be lifted and carried by the soil, not bythe branches. Large plants should be moved with a forklift or tractor. The ballshould be carefully handled to prevent it from breaking apart.Keep balled and burlapped stock in a sheltered location until you are ready toship them and remember to keep the root ball damp.The maximum time lapse between digging and being properly loaded for delivery to the site of the work or being placed in approved storage should be 4days.

Steps to Plant a Balled and Burlapped Plant

1. Buy balled-and-burlapped trees or shrubs for planting in autumn or spring.Deciduous plants can also be set out during mild spells in winter if groundconditions allow.

2. Put your tree or shrub in a cool, shady place, cover the rootball with mulch, andkeep the roots moist until planting time.

3. Calculate your hole dimensions carefully: a B-and-B plant is heavy, but theroots are easily damaged. The less you have to move it the better. You'll want toset the plant into the hole so that the bottom of the trunk (or trunks) is just abovethe soil surface.

4. Measure the rootball, then dig a hole that's about six inches wider all around and

roughly as deep. Lay a flat stake across the hole, measure the distance from thestake to the bottom of the hole and adjust the depth as needed.

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5. Loosen up the sides of the hole with your shovel, and, if your plant is too largeto lift and lower without strain, cut down one side of the hole so that it forms aslope. Then simply slide the plant down the ramp and into the hole. Place stakesin the hole if you're planting a tree that will need support .

6. Move the plant to the hole very carefully. Ease the plant onto a plastic tarpaulin

and drag it to the site; don't roll it. If your plant is large, or if you have several, it pays to rent a special plant-moving hand cart from a nursery or equipment rentalshop.

7. Lower the rootball into the hole, covering and all. Remove any syntheticwrappings or fastenings. Leave natural burlap and twine in place (they'll rotquickly) but cut away any burlap around the trunk; if it sticks out above groundit will wick moisture away from the roots.

8. Fill the hole about halfway with soil and tamp it lightly with your foot toremove large air pockets. Make sure the tree or shrub is standing straight up,then water slowly to saturate the soil and remove any remaining air pockets.

9. Finish filling the hole with soil. Use any extra to build a temporary berm at thedrip line (the place on the ground directly below the outer edges of the foliage)and water again.

10. Keep the soil moist for the first year after planting. Mulch to retain moisture, but keep at least six inches bare around the trunk. Check frequently; if you seeyellow leaves or the soil feels dry, water immediately.

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