Vol. 1/january 8-january 14, 2015

The ‘Mekotekan’ ritual Troubles in paradise Divine collision

Troublein Paradise

2 january 8, 2015

PT BINA MEDIA TENGGARA I EDIToRIAl AND GENERAl DEPARTMENTjl. Tukad Musi VI/17 Kav.1 renon Denpasar Bali (0361) 265 436, 265 437 Fax (0361) 223 698 jpbali@indosat.net.id, advertisingbali@thejakartapost.com, promotionbali@thejakartapost.com

Divine collision Pandawa Beach festival welcomes the new year

Milo’s High Society

The ‘Mekotekan’ ritual

‘Mesuryak’

Enjoying a moment of stillness by misty Buyan lake

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from THE EdiTor

Board of Directors Jusuf Wanandi, Cherly P. Santoso, Meidyatama Suryodiningrat, Riyadi Suparno I Editor in Chief/Guarantor Meidyatama Suryodiningrat

Editor I Wayan Juniarta I Contributing Editor Rita A. Widiadana I Editorial Staff Desy Nurhayati, Fikri Zaki Muhammadi, Bram Setiawan, Anton Muhajir, Alit Kertaraharja, Ni Komang Erviani, Luh De Suriyani, Wasti Atmodjo I Photographers Agung Parameswara, Lukman SB, Zul Trio Anggono, Anggara Mahendra Graphic Designer Budhi Hartono, Sunaryo, Mohamad Soleh

General Manager Wiradiatma Wijoga I Advertising Intan Indahsari, Kadek Ita Noviyanti, Ngurah Agung I Circulation Slamet Sunarno I Promotions Mirah Adi

ConTEnTsThe best book repositories in Bali

‘Sokok’

Taking shelter at Tutmak

Cover Photo: anggara Mahendra

Trouble in paradise

The New Year has arrived and naturally people here have greeted it with a sense of optimism. It is a reasonable response given the fact that the island has not suffered any catastrophes, unlike in 2002 and 2005 when terror attacks sent the island reeling to her knees. The economy has been growing at a commendable pace, the tourist industry keeps expanding, and the country has just elected a very popular and promising leader as its president.

The elevated sense of optimism, however, must be taken with a healthy grain of salt. For instance, official data shows that the number of tourists visiting this resort island has kept growing, and 2014 was no exception. Curiously, there have been growing complaints from restaurant and hotel proprietors claiming they received fewer guests, hence, less revenue in 2014.

a large number of the island’s scholars and thinkers have warned from as early as the 1990s of the dangers of the current model of tourism developed by the island’s administration, the central government, as well as by the tourist industry itself. Based on the mass-tourism approach, which believes in “more tourists bring more money, thus, greater prosperity, the model is feared to trigger uncontrolled development, natural-resource depletion, ecological damage and,” more importantly, growing economic inequality.

all of these are taking place here.our cover story in this issue shines a light on the problematic state of the tourist industry, which is the island’s

economic backbone and the single most influential player in its development, with the hope that it will trigger public discourse on a better approach for tourism development.

— The Editor

new approach

3january 8, 2015

as Balinese Hindus across the island celebrated Kuningan in late December last year, the congregation of Panti temple in Timbrah hamlet, Paksebali village in Klungkung regency, held a ritual that doesn’t exist

anywhere else in Bali.In the olden times, it was called Siyat jempana, literally

meaning the battle of jempana, a term that refers to the tiny wooden palanquin used to transport pretima, small statues bedecked with precious gems that function as the earthly representation of the deities. nowadays, it is called Dewa Mesraman, the divine’s meet-up, probably because the idea of having “quarrelsome” gods who love to fight each other is too shocking for the modern mind.

The ritual, which is held once every 210 days, started in the

afternoon with a communal feast outside the temple’s gate and involved children below 12 years of age.

The devotees then escorted six jempana with the pretima inside to a sacred spring for a purification ritual.

The peak of the ritual occurred when the entourage returned from the springs. The jempana bearers went into a state of trance when they entered the temple’s middle yard and began running in circles before stopping abruptly to bump their jempana into each other, repeating the sequence several times. The rest of the devotees stood guard around the bearers and intervened to prevent the collisions from becoming too violent.

Held to celebrate the victory of dharma (virtue) over adharma (vice), the boisterous climax of the ritual lasted for 45 minutes.

Divine collision“a unIquE rITual SEES THE THronES oF goDS CollIDE wITH EaCH oTHEr”worDS anD PHoToS AguNg PArAmeswArA

Monochrome

4 january 8, 2015

sight

festival welcomes the New Year“THE DEVEloPMEnT oF PanDawa BEaCH aS a TourIST SITE HaS HaD a PoSITIVE

EConoMIC IMPaCT on THE lIFE oF THE loCal PEoPlE, Many oF wHoM arE TraDITIonal FISHErMEn anD SEawEED FarMErS”

worDS anD PHoToS ekA JuNi ArTAwAN

located in the secluded village of Kutuh, sandwiched between uluwatu and jimbaran in south Bali, Pandawa Beach is a newly attractive destination

for visitors tired of Kuta’s busy beach.Thanks to its pristine scenery and white

sandy beach surrounded by a high cliff, Pandawa Beach offers a serene atmosphere for beach lovers. named after the five Pandawa brothers in the famous Mahabharata epic, the beach has become the talk of Bali.

at the end of 2014, Pandawa Beach’s community-based management organized a year-end festival entitled Pandawa Beach Explore to celebrate Christmas and to welcome 2015. a series of traditional dance performances were staged to entertain beach visitors, as well as dynamic music concerts and Dj performances to warm new year’s Eve. as the clock struck midnight, new year was welcomed with sparkling fireworks exploding across the sky.

Held between Dec. 24-31, the beach festival aimed to introduce local arts from Kutuh village and to promote the beach to travelers.

I Made Kodim arthawinaya, chair of the festival’s organizing committee, said the festival was the third of its kind. “we have already held festivals for three years to promote the beach’s nature and cultural potential to people visiting Bali,” arthawinaya said on Christmas Day.

The year-end holidays were the best time for the beach’s management to get the maximum impact in promoting the site’s unique resources. “around 10,000 people came to Pandawa Beach every day in the last holiday season. In the low season, at least 7,000 people spend their leisure time here,” he said.

a few years ago, Pandawa Beach was known as Kutuh Beach, being located in Kutuh village, which borders ungasan village. on March 12, 2002, Kutuh village separated

from ungasan village and the local residents decided to develop Kutuh Beach into a tourist site.

led by nyoman Mesir, a village leader and currently a legislator, the residents of Kutuh village began improving basic facilities, such as the entrance road, parking lot, public toilets and food stalls. on the path to the beach site, visitors find statues of the Pandawa brothers — Dharmawangsa or yudhistira, Bima, arjuna, nakula, Sadewa and their mother Kunti. The statues are sheltered in hollowed out spaces carved within the cliff.

The development of Pandawa Beach as a tourist site has had a positive economic impact on the life of the local people, many of whom are traditional fishermen and seaweed farmers.

“The locals have also preserved the beach as a suitable habitat for seaweed, which is one of main sources of income for the residents,” he said.

For many holidaymakers, visiting Pandawa

Beach reminds them of the Mahabharata epic.“we take pictures with the Pandawa

statues in the background. The scene is so dramatic and picturesque,” said one visitor. The Mahabharata epic has become very popular recently since a local television station has been airing an Indian television series based on the epic.

lidya Kade, a visitor from west Sumba in East nusa Tenggara, came to Pandawa Beach to see a different side of Bali. “The beach is quiet and beautiful. It is refreshing to spend a holiday here,” said Kade.

The local residents are still hoping the Badung regional government will help them improve and add more facilities to make Pandawa Beach more attractive to both domestic and international vacationers.

Its location adjacent to nusa Dua, jimbaran, uluwatu and the garuda wisnu Kencana statue makes it appealing to people eager to easily spend time at a more underexplored beach.

5january 8, 2015

Sipping a cup of coffee may be your morning and afternoon ritual a few minutes before and after work. But imagine you are drinking a hot black

coffee and enjoying a moment of stillness in a cool and misty resort area nestled hundreds of meters above sea level.

welcome to gobleg village, one of the old villages in north Bali on the border of Buleleng and Tabanan regencies, around a 30-minute drive from the famous Bedugul resort area.

Home to lush coffee and clove plantations, the village produces the best coffee beans in north Bali.

It was a rainy afternoon in gobleg that ended in a break to visit a modest coffee shop run by a local entrepreneur. There are several coffee shops along the narrow and winding road through gobleg, but this one is special because of its strategic location.

Dozens of domestic and foreign visitors were seen enjoying their coffee that damp, foggy afternoon.

overlooking the breathtaking views of Tamblingan and Buyan lakes, Puncak Bagus coffee shop is a perfect site to stop for a while on the way to Singaraja, the capital of Buleleng regency.

Do not expect to find professional barista ready to prepare a fancy cup of coffee.

Here, guests enjoy the local Balinese kopi tubruk, black coffee, or kopi susu (coffee with sweetened condensed milk). The coffee shop also serves various teas and cold drinks, as well as fruit juice.

a black coffee costs only rp 5,000 (39 uS cents). If you order snacks, you will pay rp 15,000 for a plate of fried bananas served with brown sugar caramel. Visitors looking for that authentic Balinese coffee experience will find gobleg the perfect site.

rarely visited by foreign tourists, the village offers beauty and abundant agricultural produce.

Some local residents run home-based eco-tourism businesses with small nature-friendly accommodation and modest restaurants.

The hilly village is close to two major lakes - Buyan and Tamblingan, which are considered sacred by the Balinese and serve as the major water supplies for the island. There are a number of important Hindu water temples to honor the goddess of the lake and agriculture within the 1,450 hectare Tamblingan and Buyan forest reserve.

an investor was once eager to develop a massive resort area in this important water catchment area, however, the plan eventually went nowhere.

Tamblingan and Buyan lakes are not far from Beratan lake in Bedugul. The lakes and their surrounding forests are designated as water and forest preservation areas.

Visiting gobleg, Munduk and other nearby villages is possible on various tour packages in the Bedugul-Beratan-Tamblingan-Munduk area. These packages can give you a different experience from the norm while vacationing in Bali.

worDS anD PHoToS Luh De suriYANi

by misty Buyan Lake “oVErlooKIng THE BrEaTHTaKIng VIEwS oF TaMBlIngan anD Buyan laKES, PunCaK BaguS CoFFEE SHoP IS a PErFECT SITE To SToP For a wHIlE on THE way To SIngaraja”

enjoying a moment of stillness

savor

6 january 8, 2015

soul

on the morning of Kuningan, on Dec. 27, hundreds of people rushed to the center of Bongan gede hamlet in Tabanan.

one man shouted loudly in the Balinese language: “Sira sane demen pis barak, enggal mai!” which translates as: “whoever wants to get a red banknote, please come here!” The man threw banknotes and coins into the crowd and everyone tried to grab as much money as

possible.Every village in Bali has its own unique

traditions to celebrate important days. Bongan gede hamlet in Tabanan has preserved its tradition of honoring its ancestral spirits during Kuningan with a ritual called Mesuryak, which means joyous hearts.

Balinese Hindus observe Kuningan 10 days after galungan, the day on which they celebrate the victory of dharma (virtue) over adharma

‘Mesuryak’ “a SPECIal way To SEnD anCESTral DEITIES BaCK To HEaVEn”worDS anD PHoToS BrAm seTiAwAN

(vice). galungan and Kuningan fall every 210 days based on the Balinese lunar calendar and are the most eagerly awaited and celebrated festivals in Bali.

The Balinese believe that their ancestral spirits descend to earth to visit their old homes and family shrines one day before galungan and stay with their living families until Kuningan, when they return to heaven at noon.

“The Mesuryak ritual is a symbolic action by the living to send the souls of their ancestors back to heaven. It is a happy moment of farewell symbolically expressed by throwing money,” said I Ketut nuraga, head of Bongan village.

The ritual has to take place before noon as that is when the ancestral spirits have to return to heaven.

around 127 families in Bongan village participated in Mesuryak on Kuningan, starting from 9 a.m. and finishing before noon. Prior to the ritual, every family made special prayers and presented lavish offerings at their family shrines.

In the past, after performing the family prayer, families would place the offerings and money in front of their homes. The oldest member of the family would later perform

another prayer before throwing the money to the waiting crowd.

“now, families gather here at the village community center and collect all the money in a joint ritual so that everyone in the village can have a chance to get the money. But it is mainly intended to create a sense of togetherness between village residents,” he said.

nuraga added that each family would present the amount of money they could afford, ranging from rp 500,000 (uS$39.33) to rp 10 million. Sometimes, american dollars were also included. “There is no strict rule. The most important point is their pure heart and the intention to present the money as an offering,” he said.

In the old days, the Bongan residents used pis bolong, or old Chinese coins. “now, it is quite difficult to get authentic Chinese coins. we use real money so that people can use it to buy their daily needs,” nuraga said.

However, teenagers have a different idea. Putu Budi Mulyawan, 16, successfully grabbed rp 400,000 in the Mesuryak ritual. “I will spend the money on clothes and shoes for the new year,” he said.

7january 8, 2015

Bali-based Italian fashion designer Milo Migliavacca unites his skills with inspiration drawn from the beauty of Indonesian culture and tropical

nature to create simple yet elegant designs for men and women.

on the afternoon of the last Sunday of 2014, Milo presented his latest collection for the next three months in a trunk show titled High Society amid the relaxing ambience of Mulia resort and Villas.

around 40 models walked around The Bar to showcase Milo’s designs of flowery resort wear and ready-to-wear designs in exclusive contemporary batik, while onlookers enjoyed delicate desserts and special beverages.

The trunk show was divided into three sections. The first being resort wear, all in flower motifs, reflecting the beauty of nature.

Since Milo has also drawn inspiration from outside Indonesia, he presented osaka, inspired by spring in japan, and Suzie wong, inspired by China in the 1930s.

The second part of the show was presented to Milo’s loyal clientele and possible new customers who love batik. The collection was dominated with pink, black and green.

Milo designs all of his batik exclusively with contemporary motifs and based on the technique of batik tulis (painted batik).

Having been popular for his batik designs

high society“a TrunK SHow For FaSHIonISTaS To PEEK aT MIlo’S laTEST CollECTIonS” worDS DesY NurhAYATi PHoToS CourTesY of DewANDrA DJeLANTik PhoTogrAPhY

Milo’sfor many years, he has been hailed in the fashion world as “The original Prince of Batik Couture”. These designs reflect the island’s subdued and inherent simple serenity.

why batik? “Because batik represents the heart of Indonesia, and it’s good to keep this tradition, although batik is becoming more difficult to produce,” Milo said on the sidelines of the show.

“I design my own batik, and it’s the kind of batik that could be appreciated by both Indonesians and foreigners.”

The third section of the show was also about batik, but predominantly in shades of blue.

Milo came to Bali from Milan in 1973 as a young professional fashion designer. He united his appreciation of European design with his enchantment with the refined potential skills of the Balinese.

Initially developing his signature rayon-jersey, silk-jersey, appliqué embroidery and knits, he then extended his collections

to include silk chiffon, silk organza and ultimately redefined the traditional technique of batik.

Milo integrated these into a refined Italian aesthetic of timeless elegance and balance, in tune with the modern fashion world. often his patterns and motifs are interpretations of his great love of nature inspired by his collection of cultivated orchids.

His designs for women give the impression of a liberating freedom of sexiness, with free-flowing lines creating a silhouette showing the natural curves of the body.

with almost four decades of experience and with the support of his in-house team, Milo has radically developed and ushered in a renaissance of batik and has brought the Indonesian textile industry to the global market of high fashion.

Milo’s highly acclaimed brand in the mid-90s, naga, evolved into “Milo’s”, and has been enthusiastically accepted by the fashion world in finer shops and showrooms in Italy, France, the uS, England, Spain, germany and japan.

style

8 january 8, 2015

Cover story

“aS BalI aIMS For MorE TourISTS EaCH yEar, ProBlEMS oF SuSTaInaBIlITy, unBalanCED DEVEloPMEnT anD IllEgal BuSInESSES looM - THrEaTEnIng THE ISlanD

aS a ToP, awarD-wInnIng DESTInaTIon” worDS DesY NurhAYATi PHoToS ANggArA mAheNDrA AND AguNg PArAmeswArA

Trouble in paradise

9january 8, 2015

This year, Bali’s tourism authority has set a target of attracting 4 million foreign tourists to the island, in addition to 7 million domestic visitors.

although calculations have not been completed, the provincial tourism agency is optimistic that the total number of foreign visitors in 2014 reached 3.7 million, exceeding the targeted 3.5 million and increasing by around 14 percent on the previous year.

The agency welcomed 2015 with a positive outlook, convinced that Bali remained attractive for both repeat and new visitors, able to draw millions more tourists to enjoy the enchanting paradise.

“Bali possesses taksu [divine charm]. That is why tourists keep coming back, and those who haven’t been here are interested in exploring this magical island,” said agency head anak agung yuniartha Putra.

although the Central Statistics agency has recorded a rising number of inbound tourists every year, there has yet to be deeper analysis on how the visits really benefit local people.

“we should not be proud merely of the rising numbers. The most important thing is how long they stay, how much they spend, and how to make the booming tourist industry favorable for the locals,” senior tourism figure Bagus Sudibya commented.

He said that Bali was now dominated by short- and middle-haul tourists, particularly domestic visitors and those from asian countries, australia and new Zealand.

To attract more long-haul and upscale tourists that would spend more time and money here, the government should think of better policies to improve the quality of Bali as a destination, and it should not be another “good rules, zero enforcement” thing.

Basic problems like traffic congestion, hygiene and cleanliness, infrastructure, poor access to tourist sites, as well as unpleasant services to tourists, should be addressed properly.

“a quality destination will attract quality tourists that better appreciate the nature and culture. They will choose only the best places, ones that provide security, convenience, cleanliness, good service, competitive prices,” Bagus added.

The tourism prospects this year fully depend

on whether the government, businesses and the people can play their roles in improving the sector.

as the number of tourist visits keeps growing fast — alongside the island’s permanent population and the influx of migrants from other parts of Indonesia who want to benefit from the island’s economic development, experts have said that the growth is no longer sustainable.

“with its tourism development, Bali is submerged in an environmental crisis caused by competition over very limited natural resources; it is beyond its carrying capacity,” Bagus said.

He cited an example that the construction of a hotel with 1,000 rooms would need about two megawatts of electricity and 2,000 m3 of water per day. This comes at the expense of the environment, sacrificing water for the public and for farming.

“Those hotels should compensate for their excessive use of water in any way to ensure the long-term sustainability of water for all. This rule should also be included in the licenses to build a hotel or to extend permits,” Bagus said.

“Someday, there will be a point of no return, when Bali, as a small island, cannot cope anymore with this,” he said.

The Indonesian Forum for the Environment (walhi) Bali has also forecast that within the next few years, the southern part of the island will not be able to accommodate the huge burden of rampant construction and the failure to preserve water catchment areas, which continue to decline fast.

as more hotels, villas, golf courses and businesses are built to cater for tourists, the quality and quantity of forests, lakes, water catchments and watersheds decline, reducing the availability of water.

rice terraces are being converted to

buildings at a rate of about 1,000 hectares a year, and demand keeps increasing. In some parts of the island, farmers sell their land to expatriates who fall in love with the island and want to stay, or to developers who build villas, hotels and shopping areas.

Budget hotels continue to burgeon in Denpasar and Badung, where tourism analysts have said supply (the number of rooms) and demand (tourist visits) are no longer in balance, with supply far exceeding demand, thus reducing the average occupancy rate.

The moratorium on new hotel developments imposed in 2011 by governor Made Mangku Pastika had not been implemented by the regency administrations that had the power to give approval, Bagus said.

on the other hand, the regional and provincial spatial plans that protect green areas from conversion had yet to be effectively enforced.

The presence of illegal hotels and villas is another serious problem that threatens licensed accommodation businesses and poses a great loss of tax opportunities for the state.

“These illegal accommodations are registered as private residences, but in fact, they are rented out to tourists,” Bagus said, adding that the owners of these properties were not merely Indonesians, but also expatriates who rented out their accommodation to visitors from the same country.

In 2006, according to a survey by tourism high school STP Bali, the number of these illegal rooms had reached around 6,000. “It is feared that the number has exceeded 10,000 now,” he commented.

These unlicensed accommodations have taken over the niche market of legal businesses and further lowered their occupancy rates.

as unregistered businesses evade tax, Bali could lose some rp 800 billion (uS$62.8 million) in potential tax each year, according to Bagus.

Stricter requirements should be implemented in granting licenses for new properties. The authorities should also act firmly against unregistered accommodations.

as the largest sector, making up around 80 percent of the island’s economy, tourism should really benefit local people in all areas,

not only in the southern part of the island where the industry is more advanced.

To ensure balance in tourism development throughout the island, as well as minimizing the burden on the environment, community-based tourism should be developed further in rural areas.

The tourism agency has put this high on its agenda as it aims to develop 100 tourism villages by 2019. In these villages, the villagers’ homes are adapted to be able to welcome tourists. Tourists can then spend a few days in the villages and do activities with local people, learning their culture and enjoying nature.

Ida Bagus ngurah wijaya, chairman of the Indonesian Tourism Businesses association (gIPI) Bali chapter, highlighted that Bali should focus on developing community-based tourism.

as an experienced Balinese hotelier who has witnessed tourism development on the island for about four decades, wijaya fears that Bali, especially in the south, will be overdeveloped as a mass tourism destination.

Even in the 1980s, he said, tourism practitioners had been worried about this issue, which was now turning into reality. areas like Kuta, legian and Seminyak have become very capitalistic, putting aside the crucial role of the local community in development. The local governments continue to grant licenses to investors to build big hotels without considering the carrying capacity in those areas.

“Bali should be developed based on the principles of community-based tourism by prioritizing its people and culture,” he noted.

“Bali’s assets are its people, culture and tradition. Some 80 percent of people’s income is from tourism, so Bali cannot be developed the same way as other destinations in Indonesia. Bali without its culture would just be another Singapore. we have seen the Balinese culture diluting in the overdeveloped areas in southern Bali.”

Therefore, the issues facing Bali into the future were not just those of environmental damage and diminishing culture, but also of the will to recognize and address issues head on and inform the public about why changes should be made if the island’s tourism was to survive, he concluded.

10 january 8, 2015

soul

Hundreds of villagers from Munggu gathered in front of their village Pura Dalam waiting to perform a ritual called mekotekan, held during the Kuningan celebration, which this year fell in late December.

among Balinese Hindus, Kuningan, held 10 days after galungan, is one of the most important religious celebrations. Both galungan and Kuningan are held every 210 days according to the Balinese lunar calendar.

In Munggu village, some 15 kilometers west of Denpasar, Kuningan has always been an extra-special celebration and gathering for all the residents.

Male members of the village — from 12 years old to middle-aged, don their mid-level, or madya, traditional Balinese costumes to participate in the mekotek war ritual, a tradition started in the 17th century when the Mengwi kingdom defeated soldiers from Blambangan kingdom in East java.

“Mekotekan is a ceremony to celebrate the victory of the Mengwi kingdom over its enemy, the Blambangan kingdom,” explained I Made rai Sujana, the village head.

Sujana claims Mungguh village was the center of the Mengwi kingdom and shared that the origin of the mekotek ritual was

“an anCIEnT rITual KEEPS away nEgaTIVE ForCES anD CElEBraTES VICTory”

worDS anD PHoToS BrAm seTiAwAN

The ‘mekoTekAN’ ritual

when the Mengwi soldiers returned home after their victorious battle against Blambangan.

arriving home, the people cheered and adored them as heroes and this tradition has continued to flourish until the present day. In December, every participant carried a 5-meter long wooden stick to be used in the war ritual. after they arrived at the Pura Dalam, they performed a special prayer to ask for divine blessing, then a Hindu priest sprinkled holy water over the participants to protect them from any negative forces.

Prayers over, the participants marched toward the village’s Pura Puseh temple, beating their wooden sticks along the way while the women, children and elderly cheered them along the way.

The men were divided into two teams, each tasked with charging at the opposing team using the wooden sticks as their weapons in this war-like game until eventually, in the center of battlefield, they erected a pyramid from all the sticks. Members of the winning team scaled the pyramid to proclaim their victory.

one elderly resident, I nyoman arti, recalled the days of this youth. “In the past, we used spears, but now people use wooden sticks, which are safer,” arti said.

The wooden sticks were made of pullet wood, which was soft and flexible and thus safer to use in the ritual, arti explained.

In the early 1900s, the Dutch colonial administration banned mekotekan. However, a series of calamities then befell the

villagers, which were blamed on negative forces that had not been banished as the ritual had not taken place. Many villagers suffered various diseases and some even died. The village’s elders insisted on resuming the ritual to ward off all evil forces from the village.

nowadays, the spiritually and culturally rich mekotekan tradition serves as a powerful communal ritual that brings all members of the village together in joy and gratitude.

11january 8, 2015

Finding a good read in Bali requires a little more time and patience than finding, say, a taxi. But whether you’re looking for some truly thought-

provoking literature or are simply craving a trashy novel to be devoured poolside, chances are you will find what you’re looking for at one of these locations, served with a refreshing side of vibrant local color.

The ganesha bookshops have a wide selection of secondhand books in several languages. The collection has a wonderful variety, with titles ranging from potboilers to classic literature and chick-lit. ganesha also has an excellent collection of books from Indonesian and Balinese writers, as well as literature focusing on the culture and history of the Indonesian archipelago. ganesha has three locations; the main store is in ubud and the other two are in Kerobokan and Sanur. In Kerobokan, ganesha is located within Biku restaurant, which gives customers the rare

opportunity to combine book browsing with high tea.

located just a few blocks from the ganesha store in ubud is Pondok Pekak. This library, nestled in a little alley off jl. Dewi Sita, prides itself as “ubud’s only local library” and houses a collection of over 30,000 titles. The library has a rooftop terrace where you can relax and read or use the free wi-Fi. as an added bonus, Pondok Pekak is more than a library, doubling as a learning center with courses ranging from making silver jewelry to learning Indonesian. and if upon leaving Bali you should find your suitcase a little too heavy for boarding, Pondok Pekak happily accepts book donations.

If you find yourself a little farther down south in Seminyak, make sure to stop by Drifter on jl. Kayu aya. as far as bookstores go, this one is pretty easy to miss. From the outside, Drifter looks more like a surfer’s paradise than a place to pick up an Ernest Hemingway novel. Indeed, once you step inside, you are greeted by board shorts and surfboards. But in the midst of all that surf gear there is a beautifully curated collection of books, as well as a cute little coffee shop. The shelves at Drifter house an eclectic mix, with titles ranging from rock star biographies to classics from the likes of Hemingway and arthur Miller. and, of course, there are more than a few titles focusing on surfing too.

If the hectic pace of southern Bali is starting to get to you and you are looking for a place to simply sit down and relax with a good book, you can’t go wrong with Taman Baca Kesiman. as the name suggests — taman baca literally translates to reading garden — this relaxed lending library, located on jl. Sedap Malam in Denpasar, has a tranquil garden area where you can sit with a cup of coffee or a bowl of noodles and get lost in a truly great read. Taman Baca has a beautiful collection of books in English and Indonesian. non-fiction titles focus on everything from modern art to anthropology and from Indonesian history to permaculture. as for the fiction side, you can find everything from Pramoedya ananta Toer all the way to jane austen.

This is by no means the full extent of all the reading material available on the island. But these four outlets are a good place to start as they obviously share one key ingredient — an evident love for literature. Happy reading!

worDS PiA VuoLTeeNAho PhoTos PiA VuoLTeeNAho, ANggArA mAheNDrA AND i wAYAN JuNiArTA

sight

12 january 8, 2015

on the predominantly Hindu island of Bali, Muslim communities are in the minority. However, they have been living in peace and harmony with

their Hindu neighbors for hundreds of years.Pegayaman village in Buleleng regency in

north Bali is an typical Muslim enclave on the island.

last week, the village celebrated an important Muslim day — the birth of Prophet Muhammad, a day locally known as Maulid Nabi, which fell on jan. 3.

all the residents took part in celebrations centered around the village’s mosques and main streets. a group of hadrah musicians performed prayers and songs in praise of Prophet Muhammad. Hadrah is an Islamic musical genre that originated in the Middle East and is usually performed by sufi (holy men) in praise of the prophet.

over the course of time, hadrah music has been adapted and modified by local Muslim communities.

“Hadrah means presence in the arabic language. The music and art is an expression of gratitude for the birth of Prophet Muhammad,” maintained Haji I wayan Hasyim, a prominent

figure in the village.Hadrah incorporates elements of music,

song and movement and hadrah groups usually perform their music combined with displays of martial arts or self-defense-style dance movements.

Everyone in the village was buoyant. women prepared their best meals for their families, while men organized pre- and post-birthday events in mosques and at public venues. For the residents of Pegayaman, Maulid nabi is a major celebration.

one day before the celebration, the village residents held the Muludan Sirih ritual which involved the people making sokok base (offerings made of betel leaves). on the day of celebration, the locals observed Muludan Taluh by creating sokok taluh (taluh means egg).

“Sokok means gratitude to god,” Hasyim explained. a sokok is a symbol of the people’s thankfulness.

The sokok is made from the trunk of a banana tree and is decorated with flowers, eggs and other materials depending on people’s creativity. It also includes a grodok, or paper box.

The tradition of making sokok dates back

“a rITual To PraISE THE BIrTH oF ProPHET MuHaMMaD”

worDS anD PHoToS BrAm seTiAwAN

to the late 16th century, when Islam came to Pegayaman. Each element of a sokok has a symbolic and religious meaning. The grodok symbolizes Kabah in Mecca. The four corners of the box illustrate the strong and faithful friends of Prophet Muhammad — abu Bakar ash Shiddiq, usman bin affan, umar bin Khatab and ali bin abi Thalib.

Flowers portray the Prophet’s exemplary characteristics, while threads symbolize the strong Muslim brotherhood. “In the past, people put 63 eggs on a sokok, representing the age of Prophet Muhammad when he passed away,” he said.

Every family made a sokok to be taken to the village’s oldest mosque, jami Safinatussalam, in a merry procession. after being placed in the mosque, the villagers sat inside the mosque to perform prayers and sing religious songs and recite from the Koran. They were also entertained by the Barzanji qasidah ensemble, which sang poetic stories of the Prophet Muhammad and his life. once finished, people carry their sokok back home.

another attractive event taking place during Maulid nabi is metabur in which money is given to children. “This is the happiest moment for children,” he said.

For the residents of Pegayaman, maintaining and preserving Islamic traditions comes naturally. rich in cultural and religious history, the village was established in 1639 under the auspices of King Panji Sakti of Buleleng, who granted the plot of land to his javanese Muslim soldiers.

In Bali, Islam entered the island peacefully. Muslim communities in Bali, including in Pegayaman, are mostly direct descendants of Muslim soldiers from the Mataram kingdom in Central java, which helped the Balinese king in his battle with East java’s Blambangan kingdom.

“In Pegayaman, there is a strong Balinese

cultural influence. we use Balinese names, such as wayan for the eldest child, Made, nyoman or Komang for the third child, and Ketut,” said Ketut Muhammad Tanwiri, another prominent leader.

Their Hindu neighbors called the Pegayaman people Nyama Selam, or Muslim brothers, Ketut said. Some residents of Pegayaman are married to Balinese, thus blending the javanese and Balinese cultures.

In addition, Pegayaman also welcomed the seafaring Bugis sailors from South Sulawesi, who deserted in Buleleng harbor in the 17th centry. “Currently, we have family members whose ancestors were from java, Bugis and Bali.”

The word Pegayaman itself is believed to be from the javanese language. Gayam is the name of a plant. “a story says that Pegayaman village was once a hilly site filled with the gayam plant,” Ketut recalled.

other story has a different version. according to a study done in 2007 by the Surakarta royal family, which was once part of the Mataram kingdom, the people of Pegayaman are relatives of the royal house. Their ancestors were the Mataram kingdom’s soldiers. The word gayaman, according to the study, was the name of a traditional javanese kris dagger.

no one in Pegayaman village knows for certain the genuine history of their presence in Pegayaman. But one thing is for sure, Pegayaman village is a real portrayal of loving and kind Muslims living among their tolerant and understanding Hindu brethren — a perfect model of social, cultural and religious tolerance.

soul

13January 8, 2015

Archipelago International’s popular select service hotel brand, favehotel, is debuting in Lombok. Opening its doors in early 2015 for travelers seeking a modern, comfortable, professional and well-managed hotel, favehotel Langko Mataram – Lombok is situated in the heart of Lombok’s thriving capital, Mataram.Mataram, the largest city in West Nusa Tenggara province, is a popular staging point for travelers exploring the splendors of Lombok and its neighbor, Sumbawa.The hotel is conveniently less than 45 minutes from Lombok International Airport and within easy walking distance of the top government officials’ offices and key government departments.The hotel has four conference rooms, an eclectic restaurant and ample parking space, as well as complimentary high speed Wi-Fi throughout the hotel, making it comfortable for business guests.favehotel Langko Mataram – Lombok is also just 20 minutes from Senggigi Beach. Set to cater to the island’s growing number of tourists learning of Lombok’s undiscovered beauty, favehotel Langko Mataram – Lombok has 117 rooms, all non-smoking and decked out in fave’s hallmark edgy design. Unlike most budget choices, each room is equipped with high-end amenities, such as LED TVs and 100 percent knot-count linens, bringing the signature favehotel experience to yet another paradise island.“Our favehotel brand has gone from strength to strength over the years, so we at Archipelago International are delighted to be marking yet another impressive milestone, this time celebrating two significant achievements with one opening. Not only will favehotel Langko Mataram – Lombok be our first fave on Lombok, it will also be our 32nd property in Indonesia, a milestone we are very proud to be commemorating,” said Norbert Vas, Archipelago International’s VP sales and marketing.

Discovery Kartika Plaza Hotel Bali, managed by Discovery Hotels & Resorts, was recognized, along with other hotels in the group, with a prestigious award at The Indonesia Travel & Tourism Award 2014/15. The awards are presented by the Indonesia Travel & Tourism Awards (ITTA) Foundation to only the best in each category of the hospitality industry and are known as the Oscars of Indonesian tourism.For the fourth time, Discovery Kartika Plaza Hotel was awarded Indonesia’s Leading Beach Resort. The hotel’s convenient beachside location makes it an ideal gateway to the vibrant and colorful sights of central Kuta. With 318 modern rooms, suites and villas, guests can rest in comfort and experience Balinese hospitality with international service standards.Poul Bitsch, president director of Discovery Hotels & Resorts, said: “We are really proud and honored to accept several prestigious awards,” adding: “Recently, Discovery Hotels & Resorts has been developing hotels and resorts all over Indonesia to provide for needs and support the tourism of Indonesia.”The ITTA Foundation is an organization that recognizes, rewards and celebrates excellence across all sectors of Indonesia’s travel and tourist industries. The ITTA Foundation aims to instill the importance of service-quality provided in the travel and tourism sector and to encourage strong branding in the hospitality industry serving the Indonesian market. To be nominated, a screening process was conducted by the ITTA Foundation. Judging combined online voting, assessment by Binus (Bina Nusantara) Business School, as well as evaluation by the ITTA Board of Advisors. Judging criteria included service quality and brand image. The award night was attended by approximately 500 high-profile tourism personalities and was one of the largest tourism gatherings in Indonesia.

cladsAdvertise with us! Call : 0361 265 436/7 or email to advertisingbali@thejakartapost.com

Island BuzzArchipelago International announces first favehotel in Lombok

Discovery Kartika Plaza Hotel wins top award

SERVICESAccountant, tax consultant, QuickBooks expert. Call 0878 600 22239 anggra1@yahoo.com

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Do you need a consultant for your F&B outlet? Contact Fokus Hospitality for one-stop solution. 0361 274 0619

English private tutor offers English/Math tuition for chil-dren 5-12yrs. 7 years experience as a classroom teacher in UK & Australia. Call 0817 470 3070

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Indonesian lessons, free trial class. Contact: 0878 616 37555, nika.wirawan@gmail.com

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Made to order: bags, wallets, jackets, leather. Pls call 0819 3621 9030

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Private courses in the Chinese language. Simple system. Call: 0818 055 60595 / 0813 382 17788

Private Indonesian language classes for foreigners. Call Dwi 0813 3870 5158

Private piano lessons for kids. Contact Steven, 0813 393 21615 / 089 651 434612

Private yoga lessons: in a studio, in a villa or in the com-fort of your home. British teacher. All levels catered for. 0817 470 3070

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www.BaliShoot.com. Affordable commercial advertis-ing photography.

14 January 8, 2015

Promote your event with us! Call : 0361 265 436/7 or email to promotionbali@thejakartapost.com

Events

Calendar of EventsBali Bungkus: Being IndieJan. 8, 9Starts 12 p.m.Start 2015 with Singapore-based artist, Stephen Black, opening your horizons to start an art project.HubudJl. Monkey Forest No. 88, Ubud

Beach Cleaning Day – CangguJan. 11From 6 – 7 p.m.Batu Bolong Beach, Canggu

Jazz and Blues Session Every Thursday, Friday and SaturdayFrom 9 p.m. – 11:45 p.m.Mannekepis Jazz and Blues BistroJl. Raya Seminyak, Kuta

: (0361) 8475784

Jenja: 200 and OneJan. 9Starts 11 p.m.Townsquare SuitesJl. Nakula No. 18, Seminyak

The Lights of Faith - Theater show From Monday to SaturdayStarts 8 p.m.A cultural theater show to feel the magic of Bali in every story!Kuta TheaterJl. Kartika Plaza, Kuta

: (0361) 762750 or Robert 0878 617997

Limbo Hip – Where The Night StartsEvery SaturdayStarts 8 p.m.Get together with friends, mingle and get down to our DJ’s music.La FincaJl. Subak Sari No. 77, Batu Belig, Kerobokan

Made’s Warung Live Performances Balinese Dances Every Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday, SundayLive MusicEvery Tuesday, Thursday, Friday, SaturdaySalsa DanceEvery SundayMade’s WarungJl. Raya Seminyak, Kuta

: (0361) 755297

Metis Friday Aperochic Every FridayNothing beats the true indulgence at the new Metis Lounge with its delicate tapas and cocktails!Jl. Petitenget No. 6, Kerobokan

Stage One: Sting and The PoliceJan. 10 Starts 8 p.m.A tribute to Sting and The Police by Azazi.CasablancaJl. Danau Tamblingan No. 120, Sanur

Sunset Beach Bar & GrillEvery SaturdayChill-out music, snack-style menu, true Balinese hospitality.Intercontinental Bali ResortJl. Uluwatu 45, Jimbaran

: (0361) 701888

Taksu’s Music and Mysticism edition of Spirit NightJan. 8Starts 7 p.m.An eclectic live music event inspired by indigenous and mystical music traditions, an intimate gathering to celebrate sacred healing sounds, voice, movement and community.Taksu Event PavilionJl. Gautama Selatan, Ubud

Touching Essence and Esalen Massage Workshop by Bali International Spa AcademyJan. 12 – 16From 9 a.m. – 5 p.m.12 Essential Elements of Esalen’s approach to healing through touch. For more info email admin@balibisa.comJl. Sekuta No. 57 A, Sanur

Watch Worldwide Sports Events Live sports coverage at Meads, watch live AFL, NRL, Super Rugby, cricket, tennis, F1. Meads Boutique Villas HotelJl. Pratama No. 99, Tanjung Benoa

: (0361) 776604

Food & Drinks

Canggu Berawa Beach Tavern Great tavern to enjoy sunset with cold beer, barbeque, hot dogs, and sport shows.Jl. Perancak, Berawa, Canggu

Green Ginger Noodle houseJl. Pantai Berawa, Canggu : (0361) 8446640

dEnpaSaRKopi BaliA tiny, old school coffee shop selling Bali’s original coffee, Butterfly Globe Brand that was founded in 1935.Jl. Gajah Mada No. 80, Denpasar

Manifesto CoffeeCozy place for lunch and snacks.Jl. Hayam Wuruk No. 226B, Denpasar

JImbaRanChiringuito El KabronSpanish Restaurant & Cliff ClubJl. Pantai Cemongkak, Pecatu : (0361) 7803416www.chiringuitoelkabron.com

Furama Café Good seafood at an affordable price and just the right sized portion.Jl. Pantai Kedonganan, Jimbaran: (0361) 7470805

KERoboKanKobetei A simple Japanese stall that serves good food, cheap for lunch and dinner.Jl. Petitenget No. 17E, Kerobokan

: (0361) 8025320

Les BukuFrench restaurant.Jl. Raya Semer, Kerobokan

: (0361) 8499335

KutaK22 IzakayaJapanese restaurant specializing in yakitori and seafood; shochu and vodka cocktailsJl. Nakula No. 6, Legian

: (0361) 7472324

Monokrom Coffee And Bar Bakery, restaurant, and bar.Jl. Raya Legian No. 358A, Kuta

: (0361) 753693

SanuRDusk BlueFresh, health-conscious menu of tasty food.Jl. Duyung No. 3, Sanur

SoyaJapanese restaurant with a casual vibe.Jl. Danau Tamblingan, Sanur

SEmInyaKCorner HouseStylish, cozy restaurant with great food and coffee.Jl. Kayu Aya No. 10 A, Seminyak

: (0361) 730276

Holy CrabJakarta’s famous crab restaurant opens in Bali Jan. 14. Jl. Petitenget, Seminyak

ubudAbe Do Food prepared after you order it. 100 percent organic products from local farmers. Jl. Tirta Tawar No. 43, Kutuh, Ubud

:0813 380 21855

Kailasha RestaurantDining with a beautiful view and romantic atmosphere.Puri Gangga ResortSebatu, Ubud

: (0361) 902222

Activities

bIllIaRdSMango Beach BarPlay pool, relax with your friends over a beer and enjoy the beach view.Jl. Pantai Kuta, Sanur

Obrigado Billiard hall in downtown Denpasar. Play and enjoy Italian food.Jl. Teuku Umar, Denpasar

WBC Billiard Open daily. Play pool with your friends, choose the table you like and get the stick you love.Jl. Teuku Umar No. 39, Denpasar: (0361) 7420676

Courses

Adjani Bali Learn to prepare a variety of dishes, presentation and garnishing.Kaliasem, Lovina, Singaraja: 081236232019www.adjanibali.com

Centrestage Music & DramaMusic lessons, music studio, drama and musical theater, musical productions and DJ workshops, hip hop and V street dance.CentrestageJl. Dukuh Indah, Umalas, Kerobokan : 082144815165

Gamelan Course – Mekar BhuanaLearn more about Balinese culture and music.Jl. Gandapura III No. 501X, Denpasar: (0361) 464 201

Gaya Ceramic Arts Center Private tutelage for individuals and small groups — potter’s wheel throwing techniques to hand-crafted sculptures.Jl. Raya Sayan, Ubud: (0361) 7451413 or 976220

Nirvana Batik CourseLearn the traditional art of batik making. Jl. Gautama No. 10, Padangtegal, Ubud: (0361) 975415

Cycling

Bali Star Cycling Young, dynamic, experienced friendly guides, great cycling tours. Routes off the beaten track for a totally different view on Bali then the average tourist has. Jl. Imam Bonjol, Perum Cipta Selaras No. 30, Denpasar: (0361) 3172020 or 9228274

Diving

Absolute Scuba Dive paradise in the middle of the Indonesian archipelago and at the westernmost end of the Lesser Sunda Islands.Jl. Pantai Silayukti, Padang Bai: +62 (0363) 42088Email: info@absolutescubabali.comabsolutescubabali.com

Fitness

Celebrity Fitness Lippo Sunset PlazaJl. Sunset Road, Kutawww.celebrityfitness.com

Paragliding

Bali ParaglidersJl. Bypass Ngurah Rai No. 12 A / 99 Blok A5, Kuta: (0361) 704 769Email: info@baliparagliders.comwww.baliparagliders.com

Timbis Aero Club Paragliding operations, flight instructors and tandem pilots.Timbis Beach, Ungasan: 0812 391 6918 (Ketut Manda)

Rafting

Bali Payung Rafting Adventure For more than a dozen years, Ayung River rafting has been hugely popular. Jl. Raya Payangan, Gianyar: 0819 994 4188payung_rafting@yahoo.com

Mega Rafting Bali Journey through winding gorges, luscious jungles, magnificent terraced rice fields and breathtaking waterfalls for unparalleled fun on the river.Jl. Hayam Wuruk No. 114 Tanjung Bungkak, Denpasar: (0361) 246724

Shopping

Perum Dalung Permai Pertokoan A.11 – A15, Kerobokan Kaja Jl. Raya Seminyak No. 17, KutaJl. Raya Campuhan No. 45, Ubud

Nirmala Supermarket Jl. Uluwatu II no. 10 Jimbaran - Phone (0361) 81470919Jl. Uluwatu Ungasan - : (0361) 705454Jl. Uluwatu Pecatu - : (0361) 7472303Jl. Uluwatu II no. 10 Jimbaran: (0361) 81470919Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai 81 Jimbaran: (0361) 4729081

Spa

Eastern Garden Martha Tilaar SpaLuxurious, holistic, and culture blending.Jl. Camplung Tanduk No. 5A, Seminyak: (0361) 731648

15January 8, 2015

Gilimanuk

Tanah LotKerobokan

CangguSeminyak

LegianKuta

Jimbaran

Nusa Dua

Benoa

Sanur

Ngurah Rai Int’ Airport

Penida Island

LOVINA

SINGARAJA

BANGLIAMLAPURA

KLUNGKUNG

GIANYAR

DENPASAR

TABANAN

NEGARA

Menjangan Island

Mt. Musi

Besakih

Mt. Sangiang

Pulaki

West BaliNational Park

Sangeh

Pura LuhurUluwatu

Pura Rambut Siwi

Mt. Batur

Pura Batu Madan

Mt. Agung

3

2 5

4

1Ubud

Where to go

2

3Friday MasterclassEvery FridayStarts 5:30 p.m.Expand your wine knowledge in a relaxed atmosphere and get insights and tasting notes in a quick and easy way from our wine expert.bridgesJl. Campuhan, Ubud

: (0361) 970095www.bridgesbali.com

1Detak: Retas with FilastineJan. 9Starts 7 p.m.Detak invites you to a concept music showcase featuring Filastine, contemporary duo hip-hop and bass artist with a Javanese twist. Tickets Rp 50,000.BetelNutJl. Raya Ubud, Ubud

Sama-SamaJan. 17 – 23

Starts 6 p.m.Art exchange project between Indonesia, Malaysia,

Philippines.Bentara Budaya Bali

Jl. Prof. DR. Ida Bagus Mantra No. 88A, Gianyar

Ryoshi House of Jazz Live Music

Every Monday, Wednesday, FridayStarts 9 p.m.

Jl. Raya Seminyak No. 17www.facebook.com/page/ryoshi-bali/

5Sunset on Ice

Every SaturdayFrom 5 – 7 p.m.

W Retreat & Spa BaliJl. Petitenget, Seminyak

: (0361) 4738106

4

16 January 8, 2015

One of Bali’s most beloved poets, Made Adnyana Ole, once gave a very convincing argument to motorists for loving a sudden

downpour of rain. He eloquently stated: “Rain will give you a chance to take shelter, to take a break from whatever important thing you are currently pursuing.”

So there we were, on the narrow and heavily populated Jl. Dewi Sita in downtown Ubud when the dark sky decided to taunt mortals with a slight drizzle that quickly transformed into an all-out flood from above.

We could have cursed our bad luck, but we chose to trust Ole’s words and sprint to the nearby coffee shop. The sign says “Tutmak” and there were several patrons inside, mostly foreigners enjoying their lunch or sipping on a coffee while checking emails. The two-story establishment is the oldest coffee house in Ubud, dating back to 1995, way before all the current commotion about Anomali, Seniman and the other hip coffee shops that have become the favored meeting places for the town’s elite.

Two hours later, we found that the previous animosity we had over being trapped in the rain had been replaced with a sense of peaceful contentment.

We had even arrived at that point where we enjoyed watching the rain sooth the grass on Ubud’s soccer field, right across from the coffee house, while at the same time wondering why so many motorists kept braving the torrent instead of taking shelter.

We are no poets, so we will not try to compose and compete with Ole. But simply put, Ole knows his stuff and his words on being trapped in the rain are not only beautiful but

also spot on.Two satisfying meals and two perfectly

brewed coffees definitely had something to do with our state of mental happiness.

Tutmak’s Mexican Steak Fajita was heavenly. Its slices of grilled beef sirloin were tender and rich with Mexican spices. The two house-made warm flour tortillas provided a perfect chance to “play” with the food, bringing back a lot of happy childhood memories. We mixed the beef slices with salsa, guacamole and sour cream before wrapping them in the tortilla. It was a messy affair that brought smiles to our faces and tummies. We ended up ordering another plate of tortillas.

Yet, it was the coffee that really set the place apart. The beans were sourced from various places around Indonesia before being roasted and blended in Tutmak.

“It is not a huge, industrial-grade operation. Often, friends from Sumatra or Papua are visiting Bali and bring me a couple of kilos of their regions’ beans. We mostly use beans locally sourced from private plantations here in Bali,” Ketut Suwitra, aka Tutmak, said.

The reserved man, who loves muscle bikes and is still “traumatized” by the ill-advised decision to sell his vintage BMW bike, recalled that he had decided to open a coffee house following his multiple trips to Seattle in the 1990s.

“There I saw Starbucks outlets all over the place and thought that it might be a good idea to open a coffee house back home.”

We ordered a long black and a latte. After we finished them, we prayed to the gods to prolong the rain because we needed an excuse to stay put and order another, or maybe two cups of coffee.

taking shelter at Tutmak“UBUD’S OLDEST COFFEE HOUSE STILL OFFERS MAGNIFICENT BREWS AND A MEMORABLE ExPERIENCE”WORDS AND PHOTOS I WAyAn JunIArtA

savor