Backyard Gardener

O C T O B E R 2 0 1 5 U F / I F A S E X T E N S I O N , V O L U S I A C O U N T Y I N T H I S

I S S U E

Fall Lawn

Care...Page 1

Caring for

Christmas

Cactus… Pg 4

Major Lessons

Learned During

Year One of

Hydroponics.

...Page 5

Unforgetable

Chicken Casserole

Recipe… Page 6

Heirloom

Vegetables

… Page 7

Give Abelia A

Try… Page 8

Calendar of

Events...Page 9

The Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences (IFAS) is an Equal Opportunity Institution authorized to provide research, educa-

tional information, and other services only to individuals and institutions that function with non-discrimination with respect to

race, creed, color, religion, age, disability, sex, sexual orientation, marital status, national origin, political opinions, or affiliations. U.S. Department of Agriculture, Cooperative Extension Service, University of Florida, IFAS, Florida A&M University Coopera-

tive Extension Program, and Boards of County Commissioners Cooperating. The Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences

(IFAS) is an Equal Opportunity Institution authorized to provide research, educational information, and other services only to individuals and institutions that function with non-discrimination with respect to race, creed, color, religion, age, disability, sex,

sexual orientation, marital status, national origin, political opinions, or affiliations. U.S. Department of Agriculture, Cooperative

Extension Service, University of Florida, IFAS, Florida A&M University Cooperative Extension Program, and Boards of County Commissioners Cooperating.

As many of you already know, Volusia County has a summer fertilizer blackout. Be-tween June 1 and September 30, we are not allowed to apply fertilizers containing nitrogen and phosphorus to turfgrasses. Many folks will rush to the store and pur-chase fertilizer to fortify their lawns before the onset of cooler temperatures. Before you do that, put on the brakes a bit. Fall fertilizer can have some benefit to the turf as long as nitrogen isn’t over-applied. Here, in central Florida we grow warm-season species of turf. This includes St. Augustine grass, Bahia grass, centi-pede grass and Zoysia grass. These are the dominant species in our area. Research at the University of Florida has shown that as temperatures start to cool, turf growth slows and this includes the roots of warm-season grasses. The research shows that warm season turfgrasses will lose 50% of their root mass in the winter! This is why we should refrain from heavy applications of fertilizers as the weather cools. Having said that early to mid October is a good time for one more application of nitrogen to the turf. Apply up to one pound of nitrogen (N) per 1000 sq. ft. making sure that at least 50% of the nitrogen is slow-release. If you use a readily available form of N, then apply no more than 0.5 lbs of actual N per 1000 sq. ft. If your lawn is cared for by a professional lawn care company, be sure you com-municate with them and be sure that they aren’t over-applying nitrogen. Too much nitrogen while warm-season turf grasses are going dormant or are dormant can lead to increased risk or runoff or leaching of applied elements.

Fall Lawn Care Joe Sewards

UF/IFAS Extension, Volusia County Urban Horticulture Agent and Master Gardener Coordinator

Continued on Page 2

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If you take care of your turf yourself and need help figuring out how much of a given brand of fertilizer will apply the recommended amount of nitrogen, you can call the UF/IFAS Extension, Volusia County Master Gar-dener Plant Clinic at: 386-822-5778. You can also e-mail them at: mastergardener@volusia.org. Potassium One element that shouldn’t be ignored when it comes to the health of your turf is potassium (K). Potassium is not a pollutant of our waterways like nitrogen or phosphorus and is readily leached from our sandy soils as well as utilized by the turf in amounts almost as much as nitrogen. I get several soil test results each week from folks who have sent samples to the UF soil testing laboratory and K is commonly deficient. So, if you want to help your turf in the fall and winter, be sure that K is present in adequate amounts. If you haven’t tested your soil within the past year, I recommend that you do. Potassium promotes overall health and disease resistance in plants as well as turf. It enhances cold-hardiness too. So, look for a fertilizer that has a primary nutrient ratio of 1-0-1. That would be something like a 15-0-15 or 10-0-10 etc. That is the ratio of N-P-K. Phosphorus (P) is rarely necessary since most Florida soils are natu-rally high in P. More is not better in this case and applying P to soils that already have adequate amounts will possibly (probably) contribute to runoff and leaching into our waterways. Fall Weed Control Now that temperatures are cooler, lawn weeds can be controlled without fear of damaging the turf, especial-ly St. Augustine grass. Be on the look-out for the germination or emergence of cool-season weed species. Weeds can be divided into different categories based upon their life cycles.

Annual weeds are those that germinate from seed, grow and produce more seeds in one growing season. The length of the season depends on the species of weed. Examples of annual weeds include chick-weed, crabgrass, doveweed and many others.

Perennial weeds are those that germinate, grow and persist for three or more seasons. Some of the more common winter lawn weeds include:

Florida Betony (Stachys floridana) a perennial weed that begins to emerge in early autumn and persists until mid-spring. Also known as rattlesnake weed. Difficult to control due to the root system (pictured at right), especially if it gets in flower beds. Post emergent controls are the most effective.

Common Chickweed (Stellaria media) is a winter annual weed. It lies dormant from spring until fall. It germinates from seed and grows throughout the fall and winter. Easily controlled with both post-emergent and pre-emergent herbicides. As with all pre-emergent herbicides, timing is critical. Apply pre-emergent controls in very early fall when temperatures start to cool. In a St. Augustine grass lawn, use a product containing atrazine. In Bahia, a product containing 2,4-D will work well.

Fall Lawn Care Continued from Page 1

Continued on Page 3

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Sticky Chickweed (Stellaria glomeratum) is a relative of Common Chickweed and is controlled the same way. Pre-emergent herbicides work well when applied in very early autumn.

Carolina Wild Geranium (Geranium carolinianum) another winter annual. Also known as Crane’s Bill. Reproduces by seed. Same control measures as with the oth-er winter-annual weeds.

Annual bluegrass (Poa annua)- This is a monocot that is also a winter annual. It be-gins to germinate in early fall and reproduces by seeds. It can be effectively con-trolled with pre-emergent products applied in late summer. Difficult to control se-lectively in the lawn, once germinated, since it is also a grass.

Asiatic Hawksbeard (Youngia japonica) is not a native weed. It isn’t an invasive but, it is native to Southeast Asia. Another winter annual that can survive mild winters as a perennial, reappear-ing when the temperatures start to cool, much like Florida Betony. There are more weeds out there but, these are the most common to appear in the fall and winter in the lawn. Be sure to read the label directions of any weed control product to be sure that it is labeled for the particular type of turf you have. Also, read the label to be aware of any restrictions or precautions. Not all herbicides can be applied to all grasses. If you need help with understanding the label, you can call the UF/IFAS Extension, Volusia County Master Gardener Plant Clinic. We can be reached by phone at: 386-822-5778 or, via e-mail at: mastergardener@volusia.org.

Fall Lawn Care Continued from Page 2

GARDEN: One of a vast number of free outdoor restaurants operated by charity-minded amateurs in an effort to provide healthful, balanced meals for insects, birds, and animals.

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Caring for Christmas Cactus By Terri Olson, Master Gardener UF/IFAS Extension, Volusia County

The Christmas Cactus originated in the rain forests

of Brazil and is named for the season in which it

blooms. The Schlumbergera bridgesii also has

other varieties known as the Easter or Thanksgiv-

ing Cacti. These are easy to grow plants that can

live for up to 20 years.

The Christmas Cactus is a tropi-

cal type plant, not quite as

drought tolerant as its desert rel-

atives. It can be grown as a

house plant or outside in the gar-

den. While the Christmas Cac-

tus can adapt to low light, more

abundant blossoms are produced

on plants that have been exposed

to more light.

One important note—the more you read about how

to care for Christmas Cacti, the more variations in

opinions you will find! The most important ele-

ments are the right amount of light, moisture and

temperature. So it seems there will be some trial

and error involved in growing Christmas Cactus!

Blooms: Getting the Chr istmas Cactus to

bloom right at Christmas is the tricky part! It’s

nice whenever the plant

blooms, so here are some

things that can be done to

ensure the plant blooms.

Starting in September put

the plant in a location

where it gets four to six

hours of indirect sunlight.

Keep the soil moist. There

should not be any light at

night either, so place in an

unlit area.

The temperature should be above 70 degrees dur-

ing the day and from 55 to 65 degrees at night.

The Central Florida climate is fairly good for

maintaining the plant outdoors all year.

Buds should appear after about four to five weeks.

Maintaining proper temperature ensures the buds

will set.

Additional moisture is very im-

portant to the Christmas Cactus.

Placing the pot on a pool deck or

on a tray of pebbles filled with

water beneath the Christmas Cac-

tus is a good way to add more

humidity.

After blooming, the plant begins

its dormancy period, so cut back

on moisture and reduces both

light and temperature. Also, keep Christmas Cac-

tus away from drafty areas. Just remember, during

the warm Summer months, the Christmas Cacti

should be kept out of direct sun, as the leaves will

burn.

Soil: The ideal soil for the Chr istmas Cactus is

the combination of two parts plain potting soil and

one part clean sand or vermiculite. Well-drained

soil is important to the health of the plant and to

prevent the roots from rotting.

Fertilizer: It is not essential to fer -

tilize in order for the plant to bloom.

In fact, it is recommended that fertili-

zation take place in the Spring after

flowering. A light house-plant ferti-

lizer is sufficient.

Nutrition: Chr istmas Cactus has a

high magnesium requirement. Some

references recommend a supple-

mental feeding of one teaspoon of

Epsom Salts mixed in one gallon of water and ap-

plied monthly throughout the Spring and Summer.

It is best to stagger the Epsom Salts with any ferti-

lizer. Don’t apply the Epsom Salt mixture the

same week the plant fertilizer is applied.

Continued on Page 5

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Propagation: Propagating a Chr istmas Cactus is quite easy. Take a single segment and plant

one-quarter of its length in a pot filled with a slightly sandy soil. Place the pot in a well-lit area, but not

in the direct sun. Keep the soil moist. The cutting should show signs of

growth in two to three weeks.

To root cuttings, cut back shoots from the tips at the second joint of each

tip. Place cuttings in a moist peat and perlite, or peat and sand mixture.

Water sparingly at first to prevent rotting of the cuttings. After two or

three weeks, normal watering is fine.

Do keep in mind that there are different varieties of these Holiday Cacti

Caring for Christmas Cactus Continued from Page 4

As a lazy master gardener of reasonably comfortable means, I found: 1. A recommended 35 gallon garbage can filled with solution empties way too quickly, somewhat

defeating the purpose of leisurely gardening. 2. I located a 65 gallon "sprayer tank" at Tractor Supply. Lots more expensive, but more volume for

solution. 3. It worked extremely well except solution (I guess, predictably) started to build up green sludge

near the end of the season. 4. The tank was located on the ground. How to clean out and prepare tank solution for the fall gar-

den— a real chore. Difficult to "pump out" mess 5. Solution: Once emptied-place tank on sawhorses. In the future it will be possible to drain and

clean out tank attaching hose and using gravity to water/feed adjoining beds.

Major Lessons Learned During Year One of Hydroponics By Rich Cherry, Master Gardener UF/IFAS Extension, Volusia County

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UniversityOfFloridaIfasVolusiaCountyExtension

“If you have a garden and a library, you have everything you need.” Marcus Tullius Cicero

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HOSE: Crude, but effective and totally safe, type of scythe towed through

gardens to flatten flower beds and level vegetable plantings.

Unforgetable Chicken Casserole with Water Chestnuts Jean Porter, Master Gardener

UF/IFAS Extension, Volusia

Yield 1 (9x13) casserole Mr food

3 cups cubed or chopped cooked chicken (lemon pepper rotisserie chicken) 2 cups finely chopped celery 1 cup (4 oz) shredded sharp Cheddar cheese (Sargento’s) 1 cup sour cream 1 cup mayonnaise ½ tsp poultry seasoning* 1 (4 oz) can water chestnuts, drained and chopped 1 (10 ¾ oz) can cream of chicken soup ! (8 oz) pkg. mushrooms, sliced and sautéed* ½ cup slivered almonds 1 (6 oz) can French Fried onion rings with cheddar Preheat oven to 350* Coat a 9x13 inch baking dish with cooking spray 1. In a large bowl, stir together chicken, and next 9 ingredients 2. Spoon into prepared baking dish 3. Bake, uncovered for 45 minutes (or until casserole reaches 145*) 4. Sprinkle 1 cup shredded sharp cheese over casserole (if desired), then sprinkle onion rings evenly

over top and bake 5 to 10 more minutes or until bubbly around the edges. 5. Let stand 5 to 10 minutes before serving 6. Serve with side of broccoli. NOTE: I used a 3 quart casserole which is deeper than a 9x12 casserole…. So it took 45 minutes to heat the casserole to 145 in the center of the dish. A 13x9 dish is shallower and will probably take only 30-35 minutes. *Items with asterisk were not in original recipe. I added them for additional flavor

Master Gardener Program Mission Statement To assist extension agents in providing research based horticultural education to

Florida residents.

Master Gardener Vision Statement To be the most trusted resource for horticultural education in Florida

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Heirloom Vegetables

Jody Skeen, Master Gardener

UF/IFAS Extension, Volusia County

As opposed to the modern-day hybrid cultivars, heirlooms are old cultivars generated by handing down seeds from generation to generation. In order to be considered an heirloom, three criteria must be met. The variety must be true to type, open pollinated, and it must be in use for at least 50 years. This means that pollination occurs by insects, birds, wind, or any other natural means, and the plants produced will be identical to the parent plant. Heirlooms are not generally selected for traits such as disease resistance; instead the best heirlooms are prized for traits such as superior flavor, color, and texture. Because heirlooms are true to type, they will have consistent traits from one generation to the next; therefore, the seeds can be saved and regrown the following year. Hybrids are produced by breeding two genetically different purebred varieties to produce fruit; seeds from hybrid plants are not consistent from generation to generation. Hybrid varieties are preferred by commercial growers due to their vigor, uniformity, and marketability. Suppliers of heirloom seeds include Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds, Burpee, High Mowing Seeds, Seed Savers Exchange, Southern Exposure Seed Exchange, Tomato Grower Supply Company, Seeds of Change, Territorial Seed Company, and My Patriot Supply. EDIS (Electronic Data Information Source) References: see link below EDIS Publication #HS921, Growing Heirloom Tomato Varieties in Southwest Florida EDIS Publication #HS1189, Tomato Varieties for Florida – Florida “Red Rounds,” Plum, Cherries, Grapes, and Heirlooms EDIS Publication #HS124, Heirloom Eggplant Varieties in Florida EDIS Publication #HS1244, Heirloom Hot Pepper Varieties for Florida

Website address: http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/

Heirloom Hybrid

Flavor Superior Inferior

Vigor/Stress Resistance Inferior Superior

Disease Resistance Inferior Superior

Uniformity/Marketability Inferior Superior

True to Type Seeds Yes No

“When the world wearies, and society ceases to satisfy, there is always the Garden.” Minnie Aumonier

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Give Abelia A Try! Steve Smith and Mary Wright, Master Gardener Volunteers

UF/IFAS Extension, Volusia County

Abelia (Abelia grandiflora) is a wonderful shrub to add to any garden. This flowering plant has a lot going for it year round and here’s why:

Glossy Abelia is a semi-evergreen with red tinge to its leaves most of the year. Unlike most Florida shrubs, Abelia does not lose its color throughout the year. Abelia keeps its white tubular flowers most of the year in Florida. These flowers attract butterflies, moths and bees. Abelia can be planted year round and is a versatile plant that can be used for hedges, mass plantings, as a specimen, in containers, in the ground or even used to cascade down walls. Abelia is very helpful to control soil erosion on a hillside or to replace failing turf.

Soil requirement has a broad range of conditions, from alkaline to acidic, from clay to sand. One drawback is that Abelia does not tol-erate salt. It blooms on new growth and benefits from a spring pruning. If you choose to prune, make sure it is narrower at the top and wider at the bottom to encourage full growth and to allow sunlight to reach all the leaves. No pests or diseases are of major concern, but Abelia plants are occasionally bothered by aphids. Scout often and when you see aphids, spray with Insecticidal soap or a horticultural oil as per the label instructions. You can even find Abelia varieties in dwarf form. New cultivars come in different flower and leaf colors. Come out to the Extension Office to see the beauty of Glossy Abelia for yourself.

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Calendar of Public Events October/November

Topic Date/Time Location

Edible Heirloom Veggies (2 CEUs) October 3, 9 a—1 pm Ag Center Auditorium

Ormond Beach Library Plant Clinic October 5, 10 am —12 N Ormond Beach Library

Ask a Master Gardener October 6 , 10 a— 12 N Edgewater Library

Port Orange Library Plant Clinic October 13, 2-4 pm Port Orange Library

Adding Color to Your Landscape October 15, 1-3 pm Ormond Regional Librarhy

Growin’ On Rain Barrels (2 CEUs) October 17, 10am—12 N Ag Center Auditorium—$5.00

Florida Master Gardener Conference October 18-21, 8-5 Kissimmee

Sugar Mill Garden Q&A Workday October 21, 9-11 am Sugar Mill Garden, Port Orange

Ormond Beach Library Plant Clinic Nov. 2, 10 am —12 Noon Ormond Beach Library

Ask a Master Gardener Plant Clinic November 3, 10 a –12 N Edgewater Library

Port Orange Library Plant Clinic November 10, 2-4 pm Port Orange Library

Sugar Mill Garden Q&A Workday November 18, 9-11 am Sugar Mill Garden, Port Orange

Christmas Plants and Their Care November 19, 1-3 pm Ormond Beach Regional Library

Growin’ On Poinsettias (2 CEUs) November 21, 10a—12n Ag Center Auditorium—$5.00

For more details Master Gardeners should check the VMS calendar. The general public may contact the Volusia County Agricultural Center.

Volusia County Agricultural Center 3100 E. New York Ave. (S.R. 44),

Deland, FL 32724 At the Volusia County Fair Grounds

West Volusia… 386-822-5778 Daytona Beach… 386-257-6012 New Smyrna Beach… 386-423-3368

What: This Month’s Topic: “Rain Barrels and Water Conservation” Who: EVERYONE is invited to attend Why: To learn how to collect and store rainwater for lawn and garden use. When: Saturday, October 17, 2015 from 10:00 a.m. to noon Where: Volusia County Extension, 3100 E. New York Ave in DeLand. Cost: $5.00 which includes one free soil sample test and one raffle ticket. Additional raffle tickets can be purchased for $2.00 or, 3 for $5.00 How: PRE-REGISTER by calling the numbers listed below by October 16th… For your convenience please pay at the door

BRING ONE SOIL SAMPLE FOR A FREE TEST