Backpacker October 2010

B AC K PAC K E R . C O M

OCTOBER 2010

THE SURVIVAL ISSUE

123LIFESAVING SKILLSHOW TOLIGHT A FIRE IN ANY WEATHER

FIND WATER IN THE DESERTBUILD A SURVIVAL SHELTER

STAY WARM IN KILLER STORMSNAVIGATE WITHOUT A MAP

50-Mile Life List

America’s 10 best

weeklong routes

NEW SECTION!

LOCAL HIKES

top trailsnear you28

The Best Park You’ve Never

Visited

PLUS

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storemags & fantamag - magazines for all

Bruce Dale for National Geographic

Will the Internet kill magazines?Did instant coffee kill coffee?

New technologies change many things. But not everything.You may surf, search, shop and blog online, but you still readmagazines. And you’re far from alone.

Readership has actually increased over the past fi ve years. Eventhe 18-to-34 segment continues to grow. And typical young adultsnow read more issues per month than their parents. Rather thanbeing displaced by “instant” media, it would seem that magazinesare the ideal complement.

The explanation, while sometimes drowned out by the Internetdrumbeat, is fairly obvious. Magazines do what the Internet doesn’t.Neither obsessed with immediacy nor trapped by the daily newscycle, magazines promote deeper connections. They createrelationships. They engage us in ways distinct from digital media.

In fact, the immersive power of magazines even extends tothe advertising. Magazines remain the number one mediumfor driving purchase consideration and intent. And that’s essentialin every product category.

Including coffee.


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EY 16 50-Mile Thru-Hikes

No six-month sabbatical in the works for a long trail? Not a

problem. Here are 10 point-to-point treks with the payoffs of a

thru-hike—new scenery and campsites every day, enough miles

to get into a rhythm—but all sized just right for your real-world

vacation: a week. From Pennsylvania to California, these are the

top routes for a thru-hike you can do this year. By Jim Gorman

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44 Trail EtiquetteGo ahead and get dirty. But please, don’t act like a Neanderthal

just because you’re 14 miles from indoor plumbing. Take our

quiz to see if you’re a civilized hiker—or need to pay a visit to

backcountry fi nishing school.

YOUARE

HERE

DESTINATIONS

26 NEW TRIPS NEAR YOU!

Our expanded Local Hikes section has 28

GPS-enabled trails, from San Francisco to

Atlanta, mapped by our fi eld scouts. Plus:

Free Print & Go planners for select trips.

30 TOP 3 RAINY SEASON HIKES

Get surprising payoffs on hikes in

California, Utah, and Pennsylvania

that save their best for soggy weather.

32 NATURAL WONDERS

Marvel at the country’s deepest gorge, and

watch Colorado’s bighorn sheep clash.

35 RIP & GO WEEKEND ADVENTURES

Less planning, more hiking. Tear out our

weekend guides to Kings Canyon, the inner

Grand Canyon, and the Shenandoahs.

42 MY BACKYARD NORTH CASCADES

See Washington’s jagged and remote

mountains through a ranger’s eyes.

43 THE PEAK MT. MARCY

Take the scenic—and sporting—route to

New York’s highest summit.

SKILLS

46 THE MANUAL PREDICT WEATHER

Can crickets tell you the temperature and a

cup of coffee forecast storms? Here’s how

to become a backcountry meteorologist.

48 HEALTH MEDICINE MAN

Feeling forgetful? Learn whether climbing

those Fourteeners caused brain damage.

50 PREDICAMENT LOST IN THE WOODS

You lose your way while hiking through a

dense forest. And night is falling. Can you

fi nd your way to safety?

52 DIRTBAG/GOURMET FONDUE

Add rich cheese and gourmet fl air to your

backcountry repertoire.

53 GEAR SCHOOL SNOWSHOES

Get expert tips on picking the right size,

shape, and style for optimal performance—

and get out more this winter.

GEAR

58 FIELD NOTES NEW REVIEWS

All-purpose boots, a three-for-one

winter jacket, a hard-duty pack for

peakbagging and bushwhacking, a

versatile three-person tent, and more

October 2010

Cover Photo by Dan Saelinger

FIELD TEST

54Sleeping bags and pads

On the Cover

71

B AC K PAC K E R . C O M

OCTOBER 2010

THE SURVIVAL ISSUE

123LIFESAVING SKILLSHOW TOLIGHT A FIRE IN ANY WEATHERFIND WATER IN THE DESERTBUILD A SURVIVAL SHELTER STAY WARM IN KILLER STORMSNAVIGATE WITHOUT A MAP

50-Mile Life List

America’s 10 best

weeklong routes

NEW SECTION!

LOCAL HIKES

top trailsnear you28

The Best Park You’ve Never

Visited

PLUS

Mountains

Ocean, Sea, or Lake

26

16

42


WHEN TRAVELING TO MILAN ON BUSINESS, YOU ALWAYS REMEMBER TO PACK VERY SENSIBLE SHOES.

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© 2010 Thule Inc. All trademarks and copyrights are property of their respective owners.

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60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 91 92 93 94 95 96 97 98 99 100 101 102 103 104 105 106 107 108 109 110

Volume 38 Issue 280 Number 8

EYE IN THE SKY

110

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Identify this deep,

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A practical guide to wilderness

catastrophes and the skills you need to:[ ] Navigate without a compass

[ ] Make a splint from sticks

[ ] Improvise a pair of crampons

[ ] Start a fi re with whiskey

[ ] Stay warm without shelter

...and more

Go back far enough, and we’re all descended from hunters, one way

or another. Yet the rift between hikers and hunters grows bigger

every year. But are the unarmed missing out on an important part

of the wilderness experience? Can shooting a deer actually make

you a better backpacker? Rifl e in hand, Bruce Barcott looks for an

answer—and a target—in eastern Washington.

60 Killer Hike

We like to think that a camping trip can

bring anyone together—even three siblings

harboring fi ve decades’ worth of betrayals,

resentments, and maybe one case of semi-

accidental poisoning. Will a backpacking trip

in the Rockies bring this family together—or

tear them apart? By Steve Friedman

92My F*&^ingFamily

84 Test Your Survival IQShort of getting attacked by a bear, lost in a storm, or caught in an avalanche, the best

(and safest!) way to measure your disaster know-how is this quiz. Resist the temptation

to peek at the answer key—and see if you’ll make it out alive.

Would You Survive?Take our quiz to rate your wilderness IQ.

start hereTrue or false: You can

stay alive in the wilds by…

1. Drinking urine

2. Eating snow

3. Drinking from a cactus

4. Sleeping in a space blanket

5. Staying positive

6. Tying bags over plants

7. Eating wild greens

8. True or false: A handful of

roasted, large grasshoppers has

nearly the same number of calo-

ries and protein as a hamburger.

9. True or false: Most bunched

berries are edible.

answers

10. Which mushroom is edible?

A) Cortinarius traganus

B) Clitocybe nuda

11. True or false: When you’re

hopelessly lost in the forest, you

can orient yourself by remem-

bering that all streams lead to

roads, moss grows thicker on the

north side of trees, and spiders

build their webs facing south.

12. You’re still lost, but now

you’re also tired and hungry, and

night is falling. Your only food is

a single energy bar. You should…

A) Save it as long as possible,

because your body will start

burning fat right away and you

might need a quick burst of

energy in the coming days

B) Ration the bar bite by bite,

nibbling on it just enough to

quiet the stomach growls

C) Eat the whole thing, to give you

energy to build a shelter and fire

23. Which of the following are

signs that someone is drowning?

A) Splashing and waving of arms

B) Shouting

C) Silence

D) Upright posture

24. While backpacking along the

Lost Coast, you pitch camp on a

beach and set out for a dip. You see

a spot in the surf where the waves

are flat, and it looks like there’s an

outbound stream on the surface. Is

this a safe place to swim

A) Yes, because the waves are

calmer at that spot

B) No, that is a danger zone

25. How do you escape a rip current?

A) Swim straight to shore using the

most powerful stroke, the crawl

B) Let it carry you out and then

signal a passing boat

C) Swim parallel to the shore

26. Assuming you can’t get to a

stand of tall trees, which of these

spots is the best place to wait out

a lightning storm?

A) Under any lone tree

B) In a low spot or ravine

C) Atop a rock slab

D) Inside a cave

cent constitutes the majority of those

seeking survival instruction.

15. True. These soft, resinous (sappy)

woods have a lower ignition point.

16. False. Diamonds are much

harder than the steel used in blades.

Hitting your wife’s ring against your

knife will gouge the blade but won’t

produce a spark. However, striking

the blade with the sharp edge of an

opal pendant will get the job done.

17. A. Coral snakes live mostly in the

Southeast and Southwest. The

others are harmless. To tell them

apart, remember: Red on yellow, kills

a fellow. Red on black, friend of Jack.

18. C. By restricting circulation, a

If you rewarm them in the field, two

things can happen: First, they might

swell up, preventing you from get-

ting your boots back on, and second,

they might refreeze, causing more

damage. Never use a fire or massage

(friction) to warm frostbitten tissues,

which burn easily under dry heat.

34. C. Says survival expert Laurence

Gonzales, “The personality type best

suited to survival is calm, humble,

curious, deliberate, cautious, and (at

the right times) bold.”

35. B. “When bad things happen,

denial is natural,” Gonzales says.

Getting beyond it fast is critical.

tourniquet prevents blood from

diluting the toxin and reducing tissue

damage. And suction methods have

been shown not to work.

19. All six of these will work (one point

for each), since they have a hardness

between 5 and 6.5 on the Mohs’ scale.

But the last three lose their edges

quickly and require frequent knapping.

20. B. Though cottonwoods are usually

a good sign of water, too, their roots can

reach 40 feet deep. But Bermuda grass

requires water close to the surface.

21. C

22. If you can’t do C, do B (one point for

each). Downed trees form underwater

obstacles called strainers, which can

of water flowing away from shore.

More than 100 Americans drown

in them each year. They can form

anywhere with breaking waves and

are most common around low spots,

breaks in sandbars, piers, and jetties.

Polarized sunglasses help you see

them by reducing glare.

25. C. Rip currents are typically only

30 to 100 feet wide, so you can easily

escape them before they carry you out

to sea. But swimming against the

current will exhaust you.

26. B. Lightning is attracted to high

points, and since wet rock conducts

electricity, lightning can also arc

across slabs and cave openings.

27. Fill in the blanks: If a black bear

attacks, you should and if a

grizzly attacks, .

28. If you stumble across a

bear, you should...

A) Play dead

B) Back away slowly while avoid-

ing eye contact, speaking in a low

voice, and slowly waving your arms

C) Run away

29. True or false: In the broiling des-

ert, stripping off clothes is the best

way to lower your body

temperature.

30. Never cross

ice unless you

know it’s con-

tinuous and at

least…

A) 3 inches thick

B) 4 inches thick

C) 5 inches thick

31. Which of

these is most

dangerous in out-

door emergencies?

A) Panic

B) Haste

C) Despair

D) Overconfidence

32. If you’re caught in an

avalanche, you should…

A) Curl into a tight ball to avoid

being crushed

B) Fight to stay in the slide’s tail

and create an air pocket in front

of your face with your hands

C) Shed your pack so it doesn’t

drag you down, and get your

feet forward

33. What is the best way

to treat frostbitten

feet?

A) Leave your

boots on until you

reach a warm

shelter, then heat

up your feet near

a fire (or apply

heat packets

or warm water

bottles against

the skin); speed

up the process by

rubbing your feet

with your hands

B) Leave your boots on

until you reach a warm

17. Which of these

snakes is deadly?

A) Eastern coral snake

B) Mexican milk snake

C) Organ pipe

shovel-nosed snake

D) California mountain

kingsnake

18. A rattler bites you.

You should...

A) Tie a tourniquet above the bite,

to keep venom from spreading

B) Suck out the venom with a

suction cup or your mouth

C) Immobilize the limb at heart

level and get to a doctor

19. Which of these throw a spark

when struck against a knife?

A) Flint

B) Chert

C) Jasper

D) Quartzite

E) Obsidian

F) Granite

p g

12

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bebe

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B)B)

shelter, then heat them in lukewarm

water or with hot, wet cloths

C) Remove your boots and have

your hiking partner suckle your toes

34. Which personality

type is best equipped

to handle survival

situations?

A) Popeye

B) Eric Cartman

C) Ned Flanders

D) Drill sergeant

E) Foghorn

Leghorn

F) Charlie Brown

35. What is the

most common

mistake people

make in the midst

of emergencies?

A) Attempting

to self-rescue

B) Refusing to accept the situation

C) Relying on others to save them

D) Freaking out and making

rash, irrational decisions

onality

pped

al

st

?

20. In a desert environment,

which of these is a better indica-

tor of accessible water?

A) Cottonwood trees

B) Patches of Bermuda grass

21. Most hikers know that drink-

ing alcohol speeds dehydration,

which creates great danger in

extreme weather conditions. But

how much water must you drink

to offset your booze intake and

avoid dehydration?

A) 2 times as much water

B) 3 times

C) 6 times

D) 10 times

22. Your canoe flipped, and you’re

headed downstream fast. Ahead,

you see a downed tree lying across

part of the river. You should...

A) Swim to it, grab on, and haul

yourself out of the water

B) Swim hard to it and use your

momentum to launch yourself over

C) Avoid it at all costs

D) Float with the current, feet

pointed downstream

when struck against

A)

B)

C)

D)

E)

F)

13. Identify the North Star.

14. True or false: Hikers get lost

more than any other group of

outdoor recreationists.

15. You surely know that dead,

dry wood (but not rotted) is

always better than wet for start-

ing a blaze, but type matters,

too. True or false: All else being

equal, pine and spruce will light

faster than maple and oak.

16. True or false:

You can start a fire

by striking a diamond

ring against your knife.

r body

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33. What

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uited to survival is calm, humble,

urious, deliberate, cautious, and (at

e right times) bold.”


enial is natural,” Gonzales says.

etting beyond it fast is critical.

10

Score Your OddsGive yourself one point for each correct answer. You are...

0-5 A Fabergé egg that mostly

serves ornamental purposes

6-10 A fickle ficus that thrives

only in a narrow range of

environments

11-25 A Tuff Shed that’s capable

of weathering most conditions

26-40 The love child of

Sir Ernest Shackleton and

Sigourney Weaver

41-43 A cockroach

1. False. It contains too many toxins.

But you can exploit its evaporative-

cooling powers: Pee on a shirt or

bandana, then tie it around your neck.

2. True. Eating snow will hydrate you.

However, if your body temperature

is dropping due to other factors,

chomping on snow will push you into

hypothermia faster.

3. False. The water inside of a barrel

cactus is full of alkaloids, which will

cause you to vomit the liquid. Some

species are also poisonous.

4. False. Although space blankets will

trap heat and are better than nothing,

the nonporous sheet seals in water

5 percent of wild mushrooms are

edible, and one wrong bite can

literally kill you via potent toxins.

11. False. These fables are all unreli-

able. See page 78 for an action plan.

12. C. Only ration the bar if the idea

of having no food freaks you out and

you want the psychological comfort.

13. 1. See page 78.

14. False. Big time. Gino Ferri, PhD,

director of the Survival in the Bush

school, in Ontario, says the vast

majority of lost people are hunters

(56 percent), anglers (24 percent),

and trappers (12 percent). The

remaining 8 percent are hikers and

other “patrons.” Curiously, this 8 per-

snare and drown swimmers.

23. C and D (1 point for each).

Contrary to Hollywood theatrics,

most drowning victims don’t make

a peep. The body’s instinctive

drowning response blocks voluntary

actions like shouting or waving

(though the person might do these

things in the stages preceding

drowning). All actions center around

inhaling, exhaling, and keeping

the mouth above water. Signs of

a drowning person include: mouth

and nose barely breaking the water’s

surface, mouth open, and an upright

posture with no signs of kicking.

24. B. This is a rip current—a stream

pid.” Haste can be good or bad depending

on the situation, and overconfidence

can lure you on into further trouble.

But despair saps the will to live, which

eliminates the #1 reason that people pull

through ordeals.

32. B. Fight: Self-arrest, grab a tree, or

swim (crawl or backstroke) to the side

or back (tail) of the slide, to avoid being

sucked into the subducting head. If you’re

in the head and likely will get buried once

the slide stops (which happens abruptly),

focus on forming a breathing space with

your hands, to disperse carbon dioxide.

33. B. Keep your boots on until you’re in

a place where you can revive your feet

permanently (camp, a cabin, the car).

vapor from your breath and sweat,

so overnight, you’ll wake up wet

and shivering. You’d be better off

using it to rainproof a debris shelter

(see page 73) or to signal rescuers

via the reflective area.

5. True. “Come up with a reason

to live and focus on that,” says

survival expert Tony Nester. “The

drive to get back home has proven

over and over to be the #1 factor in

successful survival stories.”

6. False. Not enough moisture is

produced to keep you alive. Five

gallon-size bags tied around bushy

plants for 24 hours will only pro-

duce a teaspoon or less of water.

27. With a black bear, fight back.

With a grizzly, play dead by lying on

your belly, legs spread for stability

and hands over your neck. If the bear

rolls you, keep rolling until back on

your belly. (One point for each)

28. B

29. False. Clothes block sun, cooling

you off more than going shirtless.

30. B

31. C. Panic usually strikes the

moment you realize your pre-

dicament. While the sensation is

intense, says survival expert Doug

Ritter, “For most people, that panic

dissipates quickly and generally

before they do anything really stu-

ome

s will

thinhing, thhtht

teter

majority of lost people are hu

(56 percent), anglers (24 perc


remaining 8 percent are hikers

other “patrons.” Curiously, this






7. False. All six-legged insects in

North America are OK, but most

wild plants will wreck havoc on

your GI system. Unless you’re a

skilled botanist, move on; starva-

tion is a slow killer (about 30 days).

8. True. A three-ounce hamburger

patty made from lean ground beef

has about 145 calories and about

15 grams of protein. Approximately

10 large grasshoppers weighing 3.5

ounces total offer about 121 calo-

ries and 13 grams of protein.

9. True. Bunched berries include

raspberries and blueberries.

Avoid white and yellow berries.

10. B. A is poisonous. Less than

Survive!71

October 2010


™

PUBLISHER Kent Ebersole(303) 625-1605 [email protected]

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Editor’s NoteBY JONATHAN DORN


Snakes in a CaveA GOOD FRIEND SURVIVES A HISTORIC

AND GRISLY BRUSH WITH DEATH.

WHEN SHE COULDN’T STAND UP, Michelle Barnes knew

something was seriously wrong. For days, she’d been feeling

achy and lethargic, but when her symptoms escalated to crip-

pling pain and a severe rash, the 44-year-old Coloradoan—

normally averse to doctors—headed out for a checkup. Must

be a bug I caught on my Africa trip, she thought. Some bug.

After 30 minutes in her physician’s offi ce, Michelle’s legs were

suddenly wobbly, and her brain was getting fuzzy.

Soon, she was lying semicoherent in a Denver hospital,

fi ghting for her life. Backpackers can learn how to stay

alive without essential gear (see “Survive!” on page 71), but

Michelle lacked something even more critical: information.

She was desperately ill and didn’t know why.

An avid camper and climber who lives in the shad-

ow of Colorado’s Front Range, Michelle is a longtime

BACKPACKER reader, a friend, and a fellow supporter of

Big City Mountaineers. In October 2007, she’d asked me for

gear advice in advance of a trip to remote Uganda. With

her husband, she planned to hike into Bwindi Impenetrable

National Park, home to the world’s last mountain gorillas.

On Christmas Day, after they’d viewed chimpanzees, their

guide suggested a side trip to a cave that held two horror-

fi lm-huge pythons and several hundred thousand fruit bats.

“We had to scramble up some rocks to look into the cave,”

Michelle recalls. “The stink was horrible, but I watched for 20

minutes as the snakes snapped up bats that fl ew too close.”

Doctors from the Centers for Disease Control would later

speculate that Michelle contracted her illness—the fi rst

known case of Marburg virus ever detected in a

North American—when she touched or inhaled

infected bat guano while climbing to the

ledge. A member of the hemorrhagic fever

family (which includes the Ebola virus and dengue fever),

Marburg is extraordinarily lethal: Some outbreaks have killed

80 percent of their victims. Starting with lethargy and bruis-

ing (caused by the hemorrhaging of millions of capillaries

in your body), symptoms progress to multi-organ meltdown,

as the liver, kidneys, and pancreas fail, typically followed by

the lungs and heart. [Travel alert: Uganda closed the cave

after the CDC confi rmed the bats are carrying Marburg, but

YouTube videos and other reports show that guides are still

taking groups to the lightly policed location.]

There is no vaccine for this killer virus, but Michelle’s sur-

vival might change that. After two weeks in critical condition,

she began to recover. Nowadays, no longer contagious, she

regularly visits the National Institutes of Health to give blood;

the live antibodies she carries are a gold mine for researchers.

Why did she live? Her existing fi tness certainly helped,

as did the timing of her illness, which manifested after

she’d returned to Colorado and its world-class medical care.

Survival experts would also cite Michelle’s will to live. The

technical skills we teach on pages 71-90 are valuable, but the

pros agree that in our darkest moments, the most effective

tool in your arsenal will always be a positive outlook.

Which Michelle has in spades. “My health is better than

ever,” she reports. “No meds, no colds, none of the stuff

that used to bug me—it’s like my

body rebooted and came

back stronger.” She’s

also returned to the

mountains (we

just hiked Pikes

Peak to raise

money for can-

cer treatment),

visited Chile,

and is even mull-

ing a trip to Africa.

“Being in nature is

who I am and what I

do, and I’d never change

that,” she says. “Yeah, bad luck

happens, but I’m proof that you can’t let

it defeat you. I’ll never go in a bat cave again, but

everything else is on the table.”


THE NORTH FACE® TRAILHEAD APP

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HERVE BARMASSE AND HIS TEAM PREPARE TO EXPLORE NEW ROUTES IN THE SHIMSHAL VALLEY OF PAKISTAN

THENORTHFACE.COM



Inside this month...

30 Top 3 Rainy Season Hikes

35 Rip & Go: California’s Kings Canyon

46 The Manual: Predict Weather

50 Predicament: Lost in the Woods

54 Field Test: Ultimate Sleep Systems

DISTANCE YEARNING: GET THE REWARDS OF A THRU-HIKE (LIKE THIS VIEW FROM MILE 16 OF THE HIGH SIERRA TRAIL) WITHOUT TAKING A SIX-MONTH SABBATICAL. TURN THE PAGE FOR OUR TOP 10 WEEKLONG ROUTES.

PHOTO BY PAIGE FALK

BASECAMP




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Less Is More

UNEXPECTEDLY AND ABRUPTLY, AT AROUND MILE 30, WE RUN INTO

a group of backpackers in their mid-20s. They are from West Chester,

Pennsylvania, and they’re the first people my buddy Alan and I have seen in

days. They smell like shampoo. They seem to be in a hurry.

“How far ya’ going?” one says.

“How many miles to Angel Falls?” asks another.

The trail chatter snaps me out of a thru-hiker’s hypnosis—I’m not sure what

time it is or exactly where we are on the map. My mind has been floating and drifting,

Six months for a long trail? Most folks don’t have that kind of time. So do the next best thing: Cash in a week on one of our 10 top 50-mile thru-hikes. By Jim Gorman

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GUMDROP FOREST: WITH OAK, ASPEN,

MAPLE, BEECH, AND HORNBEAM, YOU’LL

NEED ALL WEEK TO COUNT THE FALL

COLORS ON PENNSYLVANIA’S LOYALSOCK

TRAIL. PICTURED: CANYON VISTA AT MILE 43.

pleasantly void of stress or boundaries

as my feet pad methodically through

mile after mile of hemlock and hick-

ory laced with rushing creeks. This is

long-trail bliss.

The crazy thing? This “long trail” is

only 59 miles end to end, and we’re

already about halfway through. Our

trip isn’t a traditional multi-month,

foot-long-beard-growing, trail name-

acquiring, complicated-mail-dropping,

job-quitting thru-hike. My friend Alan

and I have families, careers, and mort-

gage payments that can’t be put on

hold for six months. But we also

have aspirations for long-trail satis-

faction—accomplishment, adventure,

scenic variety, disconnection, and the

bone-weary exhaustion that rewards

a hard effort. The solution: a point-

to-point hike of about a week. By

passing the aches-and-pain break-in

period of the weekend, getting to

know one trail intimately, and hiking

into new territory, we hope to arrive at

a place where contemplating the fuzzy

caterpillar crossing the trail is infinitely

more important than deciding whether

granite or engineered stone counter-

tops will better enhance resale.

Judging by the looks on the twen-

tysomethings’ faces, our lofty plan

appears to be working. They move on

while I’m still trying to pinpoint our

precise location.

Alan and I are on the Loyalsock

Trail, a little-known route through

the Nowheresville of north-central

Pennsylvania. The path rolls and dips

along the Allegheny Plateau in the

heart of one of the biggest green blobs

Google Earth shows south of Maine.

The scene past the trailhead, near

Hillsgrove Township, is straight out

of the Carboniferous Period. A colony

of fledgling ground pines—Joshua

tree-like evergreens—projects weird

lime-green antennae skyward. Stands

of spruce, their arching branches stud-

ded with needles, cast shadows on

an understory of spongy, star-shaped

mosses. It’s a fascinating prologue, but

we didn’t linger.

“We better get moving if we’re going



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DESTINATIONS

+

PLAYING THROUGH (CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT): THE HAYSTACKS ON LOYALSOCK CREEK, TWO MILES FROM THE EASTERN TERMINUS, CREATE CLASS IV+ RAPIDS IN SPRING; THE AUTHOR’S PARTNER AT MARY’S VIEW, MILE 28; MAKING CAMP BELOW HIGH KNOB.

to finish this thing,” Alan had said.

The Loyalsock is diverse. It visits

31 waterfalls, countless drips and run-

nels, and one impressive set of class

IV rapids. It pings to this beaver pond,

pongs to that clearing, then shoots into

an open forest of tall maple and black

cherry underplanted in ferns nipped

with autumn gold. The variety creates

the illusion of covering more ground

than we’d thought possible, a point

driven home as Alan and I take out the

maps while relaxing beside a small fire

at a campsite in Dutters Run. We listen

to a five-foot waterfall and play rewind

on our adventure.

“Wow, still 32 miles to go?” I point

out while tracing my finger back along

the squiggling red line. “Perfect.”

“That climb right there was a killer,”

adds Alan, jabbing a finger at the map.

“And there’s where we got the apples

off that old tree.”

But the best is yet to come. Going

west to east, the Loyalsock’s highlights

go from high to higher. The valleys are

deeper, the streams more acrobatic, and

the views more extensive. Fans of the

trail are divided in pinpointing its apex.

For some, it’s the collision of seven

mountain ranges at Canyon Vista, at mile

43 in World’s End State Park. For others,

it’s the Haystacks at mile 57, a sandstone

outcrop in Loyalsock Creek that forms a

snowmelt-charged, class IV+ rapid that

kayakers paddle in spring.

I say it comes at mile 34 at the

head of Ketchum Run, where the trail

teeters between darkness and light.

Cupped in a west-facing bowl carved

into steep hillsides, the east and west

branches of translucent Ketchum Run

converge in an intimate glen. It’s made

dusky even at midday by steep walls

of schist and a dense canopy of hem-

lock. Licks of cool air and the muffled

roar of Lee’s Falls below drift up on a

breeze. And there’s a campsite, too.

Debating a trail’s best spot can start

a campfire brawl. But as we descend

the final two miles, alongside Loyalsock

Creek, I recall that sweet spot by

Ketchum Run and realize that only one

truth matters: You can never be sure

until you’ve hiked the whole thing.

Contributing editor Jim Gorman vows to

thru-hike the Pacific Crest Trail before

he leaves this earth.

50-MILE THRU-HIKES


Hike it The elevation profile (below) of this

59.2-mile trail looks like an EKG of arrhyth-

mia as it cuts through the Endless Mountains

region of north-central Pennsylvania, part of

an immense deciduous woodland that spans

the northern tier of Pennsylvania and south-

ern New York. Target four to six days for a

thru-hike gaining 12,000 feet in elevation.

From the trailhead on PA 87 (1), climb

nearly 1,300 feet in two miles to ledges at

the lip of the Allegheny High Plateau, an

ancient uplift worn to a 2,000-foot-high nub

by glaciers. Quickly descend into rocky Pete’s

Hollow, losing all of that hard-won elevation.

Then it’s right back up again to hawk’s-eye

views of the Loyalsock Valley from atop

Smith Knob (2) at 1,850 feet.

The next seven miles gain minimal eleva-

tion, passing through open forest of cherry,

hickory, and gray birch, and paralleling sev-

eral small creeks. Make it an 8-, 11-, or 12.5-

mile day by picking from excellent campsites

beside mountain streams at Painter (3),

Shingle, and Grandad Runs, respectively.

The Loyalsock continues its mercurial ways,

dropping off of the Allegheny Plateau, then

regaining the heights on a three-mile walk

on Genesee Trail Road (4). The dirt road fol-

lows the Towanda Path, an Iroquois trade

route later used by soldiers in the War of

/// ///MAPS

TOPO PLUSTo view a detailed map, download a GPS tracklog, or share this trip with your hiking partners, go to backpacker.com/loyalsock.

Elevation Profile: Loyalsock Trail

500 ft

2,500 ft

Total miles: 59.2 Total elevation gain: 12,000 feet

10 mi 20 mi 30 mi 40 mi 50 mi

1

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1812, and runaway slaves.

Pass remnants of an old resort (5) built to

take advantage of superb views of pastoral

valleys and forested ridges at the brink of

the Allegheny Front. Lunch in open fields

at mile 19, near the trail’s high point (2,140

feet), before entering a section of steep

climbs and beautiful waterfalls, creeks,

and views. Soak tired feet in crystalline

Ogdonia Creek before the rapid ascent to

the .3-mile spur trail to 80-foot Angel Falls

(6). Continue north for two miles to Kettle

Creek, where you’ll be tempted to camp

next to the water but can’t; you’re in a pro-

tected natural area. Dutters Run (7) makes

a fine consolation prize, with four waterfalls

and several streamside campsites scattered

over a half-mile.

Next morning, hike 2.5 miles through

woodland skirted with gardens of maid-

enhair, ostrich, and Christmas fern. The

overlook at High Knob at mile 30 (8), one

of 25 vistas, looks west down sharply cut

Loyalsock Valley. Hike four rolling miles to

a veritable water park of flumes, falls, and

pools in Ketchum Run Gorge (9). From here,

switchback up to Alpine View, which makes

good on its name. Make your third camp at

raucous Double Run at mile 39.7.

The next morning, after two miles of

walking up knobs and grassy clearings, arrive

at Loyalsock Canyon Vista (10) for views of

World’s End State Park’s many deep ravines.

From here, drop 600 feet to a bridge cross-

ing Loyalsock Creek, followed by an 800-

foot climb up the gorge’s other side. Hike

east 2.5 miles to camping at Tamarack Run.

On the last day, recross Loyalsock Creek

on an iron bridge to follow a railroad grade

1.5 miles until the trail returns to the river at

the Haystacks (11), a class IV+ rapid in spring.

Finish with a two-mile, hemlock-shaded riv-

erside hike to the eastern terminus (12).

THE WAY West trailhead: on PA 87, seven

miles north of Montoursville. East trailhead:

.25 mile west of US 220 on Mead Rd., eight

miles northeast of Laporte.

THE SEASON April for enhanced views through

leafless trees, and October for vibrant fall

colors (check hunting season dates with

Loyalsock State Forest: 570-946-4049).

Summers are hot and humid.

GUIDEBOOK AND MAP A Guide to the Loyalsock

Trail ($7, lycoming.org/alpine)

SHUTTLE Local hiker and entrepreneur

Connie Wilson shuttles hikers from either

terminus ($35/hiker, $30/hiker if more than

one, 570-928-9475).

The Loyalsock Trail Go the distance in Penn’s Woods.

3

4

5

7

9

10

11

The Haystacks rapidapid

12

8

Sunset at 2,100- foot High KnobSunsfoot

Angel FallsAngel F

Extra day? Glade-camp in waterfall-rich Ketchum Run.

First reward: the view from Smith Knob, after gaining 2,000 feet

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DESTINATIONS

50-MILE THRU-HIKES

+

(72 miles, 6-7 days)

Toiyabe Crest Trail, NV Cross the state’s loftiest range.

In the big empty of central Nevada, the

Toiyabe Range rises like a line of after-

noon thunderheads. Of Nevada’s 314

mountain ranges, it is the longest and

consistently highest, topping 10,000

feet across an uninterrupted 50 miles.

Riding on or just off the ridgeline, the

Toiyabe Crest Trail exposes thru-hikers

to all of the range’s extremes, from sere

sage to cool aspen, windswept summits

to beaver-dammed marsh, and cattle-

cussed rangelands to pristine meadow.

The TCT was built by the Civilian

Conservation Corps in the 1930s, and

in some sections, it might seem that trail

maintenance hasn’t been done since.

The route’s rough edges mean you

better check yourself: If you haven’t

stalked a trail that habitually disappears

before your eyes, toted 18 pounds of

water at a time for purposes of dry

camping, and trekked in utter isolation,

then skip the Toiyabe Crest. This trek is

for experienced desert hikers with pol-

ished navigation skills. (775) 964-2671;

fs.fed.us/r4/htnf

The way South trailhead: From Tonopah,

go 59.7 miles north on NV 376 to a left

on South Twin Rd. (FR 080), then go

four miles west. North trailhead: on

Kingston Creek Rd., eight miles west of

NV 376 just beyond Groves Lake.

Shuttle DIY

Season Mid-June (after snow melts) to

mid-July (before water sources go dry)

Guidebook and maps Hiking Nevada,

by Bruce Grubbs ($16, falcon.com);

USGS quads Arc Dome, South Toiyabe

Peak, Tierney Creek, Brewer Canyon,

Bunker Hill, and North Toiyabe Peak

($9 each, store.usgs.gov)

Little Big Hikes


High Sierra Trail, CA Go straight to the top in the Range of Light.

This trail has no prologue. The John Muir Trail may hold the high country in a lov-

ing embrace for weeks, but the High Sierra Trail gets right down to business. That’s

because it cuts against the grain of the Sierra Nevada, from Crescent Meadow in

Sequoia National Park to just shy of 14,505-foot Mt. Whitney.

Thru-hikers usually go west to east, leaving the Whitney side-trip for the final

day. Most of the first two days are devoted to climbing to Kaweah Gap, a notch

in the impressively vertical Great Western Divide, a range of 13,000-footers. You’ll

shed that hard-won elevation in a gradual drop to Kern Canyon, a long, forested

trench that looks like it was scraped out of Sierra bedrock by a giant ice cream

scoop. The 49-mile HST officially ends where it intersects the JMT, but that would

leave you a long way from civilization. It’s another 23 miles up the back side of Mt.

Whitney and down to Whitney Portal. (559) 565-3708; nps.gov/seki

The way West trailhead: From Visalia, go 52.8 miles east on CA 198 to Moro Rock-

Crescent Meadow Rd. Turn right and go 2.5 miles. East trailhead: at the end of

Whitney Portal Rd., 11.4 miles west of Lone Pine.

Shuttle DIY or High Sierra Shuttle ($600/pair, highsierrashuttle.com)

Season Mid-August through September, for reliably pleasant, bug-free camping

Guidebook and map Sierra South, by Kathy Morey ($19, wildernesspress.com);

Whitney High Country ($10, tomharrisonmaps.com)

THE GREAT

WESTERN DIVIDE,

FROM MILE 27 ON THE

HIGH SIERRA TRAIL

Enjoy full-immersion backpacking on 9 more point-to-point trails.



Greenstone Ridge, MN Traverse a seldom-hiked national park.

Here’s an equation we like: One

seven-hour ferry plus a 42-mile trail

equals zero crowds. Thanks to boat-

only access, the Greenstone Ridge

Trail, which bumps along the view-

draped spine of Isle Royale National

Park, dishes up Alaska-style solitude.

Jump in at either end (usually done east to west, Rock Harbor to Windigo) and

emerge having snarfed thimbleberries by the handful, swum in remote lakes, and

walked grassy heights with lookouts sweeping to shores 50 miles distant. Most

GRT hikers skip the five miles from Lookout Louise to Mt. Franklin. Big mistake.

Arrange at the Rock Harbor Visitor Center for a water taxi ($45) to Hidden Lake

Dock. The views on this stretch are tops. (906) 482-0984; nps.gov/isro

The way/shuttle Take the ferry (from mid-May until late-October) from Grand

Portage, MN ($75 one-way to Rock Harbor, isleroyaleboats.com).

Season Mid-August through September for the first blush of fall color and few bugs

Guidebook and map Foot Trails and Water Routes, by Jim Dufresne ($13, mountain-

eersbooks.org); Trails Illustrated Isle Royale National Park ($12, natgeomaps.com)


West Coast Trail, BC Tackle Vancouver Island’s wild coast.

If the Navy SEALs got into trail build-

ing, they’d devise something like this.

Every mile brings a gut check: dizzy-

ing cable car rides across rivers, lad-

ders 20 stories tall, giant log hurdles,

boot-sucking mud, and seaweed-slick-

ened boulder courses. Overlay that

with potentially atrocious weather and

wildly surging tides, and you have a

trail for the brave and the few (just 30

permits for the north and south trail-

heads each day).

But the scenic payoffs are well

worth the physical tests. After watching

a pod of gray whales breach, playing

in the splash pool where Tsusiat Falls

crashes 50 feet to the beach, and hud-

dling by the warmth of a driftwood fire

in the fading light of a pastel ocean

sunset, you’ll be ready for another

tour of duty. (250) 726-3500; pc.gc.ca/

pn-np/bc/pacificrim/index.aspx

The way North trailhead: from Bamfield,

three miles south on Bamfield Rd.

South trailhead: at the Gordon River

Information Center at the end of BC 14.

Shuttle West Coast Trail Express ($85,

railbus.com)

Season August through mid-September

for drier weather (read: better footing)

Guidebook and map Hiking The West

Coast Trail, by Tim Leadem ($13,

dmpibooks.com); CanMap’s West Coast

Trail is free with your reservation.


Knobstone Trail, INClimb high (really!) in the Midwest.

Four hundred feet of incline here,

400 feet there, and before you know

it, you’re talking serious elevation.

That’s how it goes on the KT, Indiana’s

resounding rebuttal to misconceptions

that the state is basketball-court flat.

In 45 miles, the Knobstone racks

up a Rockies-esque 10,500 feet of

elevation gain while riding a rugged

escarpment that starts within eye-

shot of Louisville, Kentucky. When

united with its northern section (now

called the Tecumseh Trail), the KT will

extend a hard-to-ignore 140 miles. But

it’s not just hills that distinguish the KT.

You’ll pass through thickly forested

hollows, cross rocky outcrops, gain

tree-top vistas, and likely hear coyotes

yip in the night. Start from the north

in Delaney Creek State Park, leaving

the hardest climbs and best views for

the end. (317) 232-4029; in.gov/dnr/

outdoor/4224.htm

The way South trailhead: From

Louisville, take I-65 north six miles to

IN 60. Go nine miles to Deam Lake

State Recreation Area. North trailhead:

From Salem, IN, take IN 135 for 8.4

miles to E. Rooster Hill Rd. Go 2.3 miles

to Delaney Creek State Park.

Shuttle Go Deep Adventures ($65/two

hikers, 812-967-4620)

Season May for leaf-out. Mid-October

for colors. Must cache water from July

to September.

Guidebook and map Hiking Indiana,

by Phil Bloom ($17, falcon.com);

Indiana DNR Knobstone Trail Topo Map

($4, 317-232-4180)

TSUSIAT FALLS,

WEST COAST TRAIL

KNOBSTONE TRAIL,

DEAM LAKE STATE

RECREATION AREA


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DESTINATIONS


Resurrection Pass Trail, AKScore big scenery. No bush plane required.

Grizzlies do it. Moose and wolves

do it. Backpackers? Only occasion-

ally. That is, travel the Resurrection

Pass Trail. Ironic, because in a state

buzzing with bush planes, the RPT is

easy-access and much longer than a

dayhike. Bonus: Eight cabins dot the

trail, making hut-to-hut itineraries pos-

sible ($5/night; recreation.gov). Alaska

newbies, this is the trail for you.

An hour south of Anchorage, seven

of its 39 miles cruise above the trees

on either side of the pass, with snowy

peaks all around. The hike is a long,

gradual rise from near sea level to the

2,600-foot pass and then a long, easy

descent. Simple is good. Creeks line the

trail for much of the way, and cabins

are situated within earshot of tumbling

water, or beside trout-filled lakes. (907)

743-9500; fs.fed.us/r10/chugach

The way North trailhead: four miles

south of Hope on Resurrection Creek

Rd. South trailhead: mile 53.2 on Sterling

Highway in Tablerock State Park.

Shuttle DIY, or hire a cab. ($250/two

hikers, Soldotna Cab, 907-262-4200)

Season The trail is snow-free from mid-

June through September.

Map Trails Illustrated Kenai NWR/

Chugach National Forest ($12, natgeo-

maps.com)


Foothills Trail, SCSee bears, gorges, and falls.

Between Sassafras Mountain (at 3,554

feet the highest point in South Carolina)

and Lake Jocassee, the Foothills Trail

enters a mountainous realm containing

one of the East’s densest black bear

populations. What’s good terrain for

Ursus americanus—remote, thickly for-

ested, and cut through with creeks—is

prime habitat for backpackers, too. The

FT’s three distinct and roughly equi-

distant sections all feature waterfalls,

rivers, and creeks stoked on 75 inches

of annual rainfall as the trail drops

from the “Blue Wall” of the Southern

Appalachians to the Piedmont. The

Jocassee Gorges riddle the middle sec-

tion, between miles 14 and 45. Here,

the trail skirts the outstretched arms of

Lake Jocassee and vaults four rivers on

superbly engineered bridges, including

a 225-foot steel suspension bridge over

Toxaway River. Hemmed in by the lake

and the Blue Wall, the FT crosses nary

a paved road for 34 miles through here.

Whitewater Falls, the East’s second

highest waterfall, stair-steps 411 feet

just a short distance from the trail at

mile 46. In the last section, walk along

the churning rapids of the Chattooga

River, where parts of Deliverance were

filmed. (864) 467-9537; foothillstrail.org

The way East trailhead: From Greenville,

take US 276 23.1 miles north to SC 11

west. Head 6.6 miles, and turn left onto

East Ellison Lane, which leads to the

trailhead. West trailhead: From Walhalla,

take SC 107, 12 miles north to Oconee

State Park.

Shuttle The Foothills Trail Conference

(foothillstrail.org) maintains a list of vol-

unteers who offer free shuttles.

Season April for engorged falls. Late-

October for autumn colors.

Guidebook and map Guide to the

Foothills Trail, by Karen LaFleur ($13,

foothillstrail.org); Foothills Trail Map

($11, foothillstrail.org)

50-MILE THRU-HIKES

TABLEROCK MOUNTAIN

NEAR THE TRAILHEAD

JUNEAU FALLS,

RESURRECTION

PASS TRAIL

Outdoor Researchproudly supports

LAUREN O’CONNELL-FUJIITHRU-HIKER / OR RETAIL SALES SPECIALIST / SEATTLE, WA

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Middle Fork Trail, NM Trek along—and in—the Gila River.

It’s not quite canyoneering, not quite

hiking. Amphibipacking, anyone? This

trail fords the Middle Fork of the Gila

River no fewer than 100 times as it

pings between steep, ochre-colored

walls on the way to the Gila’s headwa-

ters in the Mogollon Mountains.

The hike up the Middle Fork is never

strenuous but slow nonetheless, due

to slick pebbles and bedrock at river

crossings, plus the occasional patch of

quicksand. The first few miles of walk-

ing, beyond the trailhead in Gila Cliff

Dwellings National Monument, can be

busy with dayhikers, but crowds soon

fade: Beyond Jordan Hot Spring, a 97°F

soaker at the eight-mile mark, you’ll be

alone in the canyon.

Every twist and bend in the river

alters the play of light. At midday,

silvery green leaves of sycamore and

cottonwood stand out in sharp relief

against muted rock walls. At sunset,

the odd spires, flutings, and buttresses

of the cliff walls come alive in glowing

reds and oranges. Dry your soggy toes

by an evening fire and cock an ear for

the echoing howls of Mexican gray

wolves. (575) 388-8201; fs.usda.gov/gila

The way South trailhead: 44 miles north

of Silver City on NM 15. North trailhead:

Snow Lake Campground on NM 159.

Shuttle Gila Backcountry Services

($175/pair, gilabackcountryservices.com)

Season Early summer (after runoff) and

autumn (after monsoons)

Map Silver City Ranger District Gila

Wilderness Map ($9, 575-388-8201)


The Press Traverse, WA Cross the Olympic Range on a forgotten explorers’ path.

When James Christie led an expedition across the Olympic Mountains in late 1889,

intent on “unveiling the mystery which wraps the land encircled by the snow-

capped Olympic range,” he and his men weren’t seen again until six months later,

when they emerged tattered and hungry. Strong backpackers can duplicate the

Press Expedition’s heroic feat with only four days of effort on this easy-to-follow

path. But why not take a fifth day to layover at a wildflower-lined lake?

As in Christie’s day, the only way to see the core of what is now Olympic National

Park is on foot. Start at Whiskey Bend in the north and follow the Elwha River Trail

upstream (south) to Low Divide (elevation: 3,602 feet), then take the North Fork

Quinault River Trail to shadow its namesake watercourse from freshet to torrent.

You can still find the expedition’s axe blaze of three stacked lines on trees between

Antelope and Idaho Creeks. You’ll walk through stands of colossal Sitka spruce,

western hemlock, and western red cedar making up one of the largest tracts of

old-growth this side of Canada. (360) 565-3130; nps.gov/olym

The way North trailhead: 8.2 miles south of US 101 on Olympic Hot Springs Rd.

South trailhead: 5.7 miles east off US 101 on North Shore Rd., past Lake Quinault

at North Fork Ranger Station.

Shuttle All Points Charters & Tours ($250/up to six backpackers, goallpoints.com)

Season August through September for drier days and crisp nights

Guidebook and maps Olympic Mountains Trail Guide, by Robert L. Wood ($19,

mountaineersbooks.org); Elwha Valley and Quinault-Colonel Bob maps ($5 each,

customcorrectmaps.com)

DESTINATIONS

50-MILE THRU-HIKES

SPIRES

AT MILE 5,

MIDDLE FORK

TRAIL

THE LILLIAN RIVER,

FROM THE ELWHA

RIVER TRAIL

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DESTINATIONS

LOCAL HIKES

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WestHike to a volcano, a 400-foot falls, and a desert oasis.

LAS VEGAS, NVCLIMB TO SOLITUDE

AND A CALM POND

Chelise Simmons

heads to Red Rock

Canyon’s Calico

Tanks for quick

getaways. The

secluded pool

(called a tinaja) at

the route’s turn-

around point is

rimmed by towering

slickrock and home

to brine shrimp. “I

rarely see others on

the trail and always

hear birds singing,”

she says. This 2.5-

mile out-and-back

is just a half-hour

from the Strip.

Trip ID 717877

/// ///MAPS

THE PERFECT TRIP MAP—FREE!Select trips on our Local Hikes pages now come with a companion Print & Go PDF (see example above), giving you turn-by-turn trail instructions and photos embedded on a usable topo map. There’s more: It has a gear checklist, driving directions, and waypoints for finding the trail’s nearest campground, restaurant, gas station, and grocery store. And did we mention it’s free? backpacker.com/printandgo

Ketchum: Hunter Creek You’ll share the trail with moun-

tain goats, elk, and deer on

this remote, 5.6-mile dayhike

in Idaho’s Boulder Mountains.

The trail crisscrosses the creek

six times before starting a mile-

long push to 9,400-foot Hunter

Creek Summit, a broad and

grassy saddle perched between

10,000-foot peaks. Have an

extra day? Spend the night in

the meadow just below the

route’s highpoint. Trip ID 616810

Haleakala NP: Waimoku Falls Here’s one more reason to visit

Maui: the 400-foot waterfall at

the end of the Pipiwai Trail. Hike

two miles northwest of Hana

Highway—passing 40-foot-tall

bamboo trees and an alluring

swimming hole nicknamed the

“Pool of No Return”—to a sheer-

walled lava amphitheater where

spring-fed Waimoku Falls plunges

down mossy cliffs. Trip ID 686237

San Francisco: Mt. Wittenberg Loop Top out on the tall-

est peak in Point

Reyes National

Seashore on a 6.3-

mile loop that begins

at the Bear Valley

trailhead and climbs

past violet Douglas

lilies and miniature

lupine. After crest-

ing the wooded,

1,407-foot summit,

descend 1,000 feet

in roughly two miles

on the Horse Trail.

Trip ID 705578

Portland: Ape Canyon Traverse the eastern fl anks

of the most active volcano

in the Cascades on this 11.3-

mile trek. It links wildfl ower

fi elds, pumice-covered

plains, and boulder-size lava

bombs in Mt. St. Helens

National Monument.

backpacker.com/ape

Trip ID 541023

Mt. St. Helens National Volcanic Monument: Ape Canyon

LOCAL HIKES

Do itWater gets scarce starting in July. Tank up before these sections: Tahoe City to Mt.

2

1

3

45

76

9

8

PAGE 1

MILE

1

DIRECTIONS UTM

0 Ape Canyon trailhead: Descend into second-growth maple and alder forest, heading tk. 0570078E 5112825N

2 .5 The mile-wide mud and rock lahar that wiped out forest on the southeast side of Mt. St. Helens. 0569521E 5113073N

3 3.5 Ridge views start to open to the east showcasing 12,276-foot Mt. Adams and tk-foot Mt. Rainier. 0567794E 5115598N

4 4.3 Stand at the edge of the 100’ slot at the head of Ape Canyon. Enjoy a tremendous view. 0566898E 5116120N

Elevation Profile

5 4.4 Junction with the Loowit Trail. Turn right (N) for 0.8 mile to the natural spring. 0566740E 5116129N

6 5.1 Follow large pyramids of rocks marking the path though the Plains of Abraham. 0566540E 5116658N

7 5.2 A miniature oasis filled with wildflowers at the brink of a towering cliff, amid the desolate pumice plains. 0566787E 5116670N

8 5.6 Giant lava bombs scattered around the area; similar to the the erratics left by passing glaciers. 0566578E 5117226N

9 5.7 A river of rocks at the 6-mile point. A good turnaround spot for a dayhike, or continue on to Windy Ridge for a shuttle hike or backpack.

0566564E 5117303N

300 ft

Day 1 Day 2 Day 3

700 ft

1 2 3 4 5

Total Miles: 15.2

Plan it GET THERE From South Lake Tahoe, take US 50 W 7.6 miles

to FR 11NO6C. Turn right and drive .1 mile to a slight right onto

FR 11N06 (becomes Echo Lakes Rd.) and go .9 mile.

GUIDEBOOK AND MAP The Tahoe Rim Trail, by Tim Hauserman

($13; wildernesspress.com); Tom Harrison Maps Lake Tahoe

Recreation Map ($10; tomharrisonmaps.com) The Tahoe

Rim Trail, by Ti

HYDRATION Water gets scarce starting in July. Tank up before

these sections: Tahoe City to Mt. Rose Highway (38 miles;

consider a cache at Brockway Summit); Kingsbury North to

Spooner Lake (20 miles); Spooner Lake to Ophir Creek (18

miles). kway Summit); Kingsbury North to Spooner Lake (20

PERMITS Required only in the Desolation Wilderness. Half

kept for walk-ups ($5/hiker/night; 530-543-2694; fs.fed.

us/R5/LTBMU/). ation WilderneR5/LTBMU/). R5/LTBMU/).

ation WilderneR5/LTBMU/). Thru-hikers must Thru-hikers

must pay fees, but aren’t subject to site quotas.

PAGE 2

Heart Lake and Mt. Sheridan

Restaurant/Bar Gear Shop TrailheadGas Station Grocery Store

Gear Lists

Day Trip

4 sterile, 3x3-inch or

5 1x3-inch adhesive strips

to cover cleaned wounds

2 blister dressings or

moleskin

1 roll tape (½ inch x 5

yards) to

6 200mg tablets ibupro-

fen for pain, inflammation,

and fever

2 packets antibiotic oint-

ment to cover wounds 4

sterile, 3x3-inch or

5 1x3-inch adhesive strips

to cover cleaned wounds


moleskin


yards) to



and fever


ment to cover wounds


yards) to



and fever


ment to cover wounds

CANYON MARKET AND CAFE

Milepost 238.4 Parks Hwy.,

Denali, AK; (907) 683-7467

Tk fact or tip about this

grocery store.

TK NAME OF

RESTAURANT

Milepost 238.4

Parks Hwy.,

Denali, AK;

(907) 683-7467

Tk fact or tip

about this

restaurant.

CONACO

Milepost 238.4 Parks

Hwy.,Denali, AK;

(907) 683-7467

CONACO

Milepost 238.4 Parks

Hwy.,Denali, AK;

(907) 683-7467

Driving Directions from TK1) Start at Tk spot

2) Take a right on St. George Street, go about 3.4 miles. You’ll see the

Save a lot grocery story on your right.

3) Take a left at the grocery store onto Elm St, head on this street for

about 6 miles.

4) Start at Tk spot the Save a lot grocery story on your right.

5) Take a L at the grocery store onto El street for about 6 miles.

6) Start at Tk spot

7) Take a right on St. George Street, go about 3.4 miles. You’ll see the

Save a lot grocery story on your right.

8) Take a left at the grocery store onto Elm St, head on this street for

about 6 miles.

9) Start at Tk spot the Save a lot grocery story on your right.

10) End at trailhead parking lot.

LegendBACKPACKER subscribersper square mileby zip code

New tripsAll backpacker.com trips

20-200

8-20

4-8

2-4

1-2

0.5-1

0.3-0.5

0.1-0.3

0.075-0.1

0.05-0.075

0.025-0.05

0.01-0.025

0.0003-0.01LOW

ES

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moleskin


ards) to

6 200 t bl t ib

PRINT & GO!

READERHIKE OF THE MONTH

Joshua Tree NP: Lost Palms Oasis Nope, it’s not a mirage. This 7.4-

mile desert trek really does lead

to a shady grove of palm trees

tucked in a rocky canyon bottom.

From the Cottonwood Spring

trailhead, the route rolls over hills

dotted with spiky yucca, ocotillo,

and cholla cactus before dropping

into a lush oasis. Trip ID 338185

PRINT & GO!


Mountain WestSee the best of Yellowstone, thru-hike the GilaWilderness, and scale a Salt Lake summit.

READERHIKE

OF THE MONTH

ROCKY

MOUNTAIN

NATIONAL

PARK, COLINK FOUR HIGH-

COUNTRY LAKES

Barbara Caisse mapped

this colorful, 3.8-mile

(round-trip) dayhike

in Tyndall Gorge in

September, when

the mountainsides

were speckled with

golden aspen groves.

Her route starts at

Bear Lake and climbs

west—passing the lily

pad-covered waters

of Nymph and the

turquoise blues of

Dream and Emerald

Lakes—to the base

of 12,000-foot

Hallett Peak and

Flattop Mountain.

“You’ll find clas-

sic Rocky Mountain

scenery in a relatively

short distance,” says

Caisse. “Make sure

to take plenty of

time to relax by all

the lakes and drink

in the landscape.”

Trip ID 488949

/// ///MAPS

GET MOREDownload GPS data by adding the Trip ID digits to the end of this URL: backpacker.com/hikes/__________. You’ll find maps, directions, trail beta, and more.

On the go? Send them to your mobile phone. Text “imap” and the numerical Trip ID to 32075.

Glacier NP: Grinnell Lake Back-to-back boat rides jump-start this

5.9-mile hike to an emerald-green pool.

Cruise across Swiftcurrent Lake and Lake

Josephine ($22; glacierparkboats.com/

manygl.htm), then pick up the well-signed

trail that leads to Grinnell Lake and its

eponymous waterfall. Connect North

Shore and Swiftcurrent Nature Trails to

return to the trailhead. Trip ID 508271

Telluride: Navajo Lake You name it, this 10.2-mile

hike has it. Mountain lakes?

You get two of ’em. Views

of 14,000-foot peaks?

You’ll see a trio. Waterfalls?

Catch a glimpse of one

at mile 3.7. To join in, link

Woods Lake and Navajo

Lake Trails and spend the

night at the lakeside camp-

site. Trip ID 528316

Grand Canyon NP: Grandview Loop

Drop into the Big Ditch on a network

of switchbacks and log stairs on this

three-day, 11.9-mile trek to and around

Horseshoe Mesa. Explore remnants of

Pete Berry’s Last Chance Mine, camp

along secluded Hance or Cottonwood

Creeks, poke your head into the Cave of

the Domes, and enjoy a sweet sunset

view of Zoroaster Temple. (p. 37)

Silver City: Middle Fork Trail Timing is everything on this 40-mile

thru-hike. You need low water, since

you’ll crisscross the Middle Fork of

the Gila River more than 100 times

as you wind along ruddy canyon

walls. Go in early summer for ideal

river fl ows or fall for sycamore and

ash displays. (p. 20)

Yellowstone NP: Heart Lake and Mt. Sheridan Let the crowds wait

for Old Faithful: Experience the rug-

ged side of Yellowstone on this two-

day, 23.2-mile backpack. You’ll track

past steaming creeks and old-growth

lodgepole en route to Heart Lake’s

rocky shoreline and Mt. Sheridan’s

10,305-foot crown. backpacker.com/

heart Trip ID 300069

Salt Lake City: The Pfeifferhorn Take two days to savor this 4.6-

mile (one-way) climb that ends

on a rocky, 11,326-foot peak. From

Little Cottonwood Canyon, hike

roughly three miles and spend the

night by Red Pine Lake. Rise early

for the fi nale, a 1.4-mile ascent

that gains 1,700 feet. Trip ID 728169

M

PRINT & GO!

5 7 0 0 TOTAL TRIPS 0 3 5 0 NEW TRIPS 1 1 8 MAP CONTRIBUTORS JOIN THE TEAM BACKPACKER.COM/POSTATRIPTHE ONLINE TALLY:


DESTINATIONS

LOCAL HIKES


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MidwestThru-hike Isle Royale, circle a granite monolith, and find hiking bliss in Kansas.

READERHIKE OF THE MONTH

OZARK

HIGHLANDS

TRAIL, ARSEE A NATURAL

ARCH AND

RUSHING RIVERS.

Charlie Williams is

a veteran map

contributor, so we

listen when he

drops phrases like

“one of my all-time

favorites,” which is

how he described

this 40-mile OHT

ramble from Ozone

to Fairview trail-

heads. You’ll cross

the remote Hurricane

Creek Wilderness,

see the state’s only

natural arch, and

ford the knee- to

hip-deep creek twice.

Trip ID 830236

/// ///MAPS

PRINT HIGH-QUALITY TOPOSEvery GPS-enabled trip on our site has a sweet new option. Click on the “Print MyTopo” button in our Map Tools menu, and you can custom-create a map (as large as 36’’ x 48’’) of your route using a topographical grid or aerial photo. BACKPACKER readers get 20 percent off. backpacker.com/hikes

Austin, TX: Enchanted Rock Loop“The Rock” is a huge, pink granite dome

that rises 425 feet above the surround-

ing woodland and covers 640 acres.

Circumnavigate the monolith on this 4.9-

mile loop. Spurs to Moss Lake (backcoun-

try campsites available) and the summit

are short (.4 mile each) and worthwhile.

backpacker.com/enchanted Trip ID 555380

Isle Royale NP: Greenstone Ridge Trail Take a long weekend or

a week to thru-hike this

42-mile trail that bumps

along the view-crazy

backbone of the park

from Rock Harbor to

Windigo. The 3.5 hours

of ferry rides to reach

the trailheads help

ensure hefty doses of

solitude. (p. 17)

Kansas City: Burr Oak Woods Conservation Area Link the Wildlife

Habitat, Hickory

Grove, and Bethany

Falls Trails for a 4.1-

mile loop winding

around limestone

bluffs, glassy ponds,

and deer-frequented

meadows—a 20-min-

ute drive from down-

town. Trip ID 503635

Badlands NP: Pinnacles Overlook Roadtripping?

Stretch your legs

outside of Wall,

South Dakota, on

this .2-mile trek to a

view that rivals any

in canyon country.

Trip ID 504426

Indianapolis: Knobstone TrailNew classic: This

45-mile point-

to-point gains

10,500 feet as it

ratchets along

a craggy ridge in

Deam Lake State

Recreation Area.

Slot four days to

complete it. (p. 17)

Salina: Wilson Purple Loop

Most of Kansas is crop-covered

and pancake flat. Hike into an

anomaly on this 4.7-mile loop in

wildlife-rich Wilson State Park.

From Hell Creek Bridge, drop into

a valley, switchback to a hilltop,

then trace the sandstone shores

of the reservoir. Trip ID 370885

A

PRINT & GO!


EastLeaf-peep in Vermont, climb an Adirondack classic, and catch brown trout.

READERHIKE

OF THE MONTH

STONE

MOUNTAIN, GABAG A SUMMIT

20 MINUTES

FROM TOWN

Terah Shelton hits this

7.4-mile loop when

she needs a breather

from the city. “Within

minutes, you’re sur-

rounded by granite

and trees,” she says.

“And when you reach

the summit, you

can see Kennesaw

Mountain, the

Appalachians, and

the hazy skyline.”

On the way, you’ll

pass the largest high-

relief sculpture in the

world—a carving of

confederate heroes

in the mountainside

that’s larger than

three football fields.

Trip ID 39456

/// ///MAPS

SHARE HIKES, WIN A TRIP! Score a hiking vacation in Rocky Mountain National Park next summer—on BACKPACKER’S tab! Here’s how: Upload GPS data for your favorite hikes to your profile at backpacker.com. We’ll send you a T-shirt for your first submission, then a gift from our gear closet for every fifth hike thereafter. To win the trip? Simple. The reader with the most hikes wins. Go to backpacker.com/mapcontest.

Great Smoky Mountain NP: Charlie’s BunionA 1925 wildfi re incinerated the slopes of this

5,565-foot knob and created the view—and

the peculiar name. A local outdoorsman

named the bulbous peak after his buddy’s

infl amed toe. Scramble to the summit for a

vista with 1,000-foot drop-offs. back-

packer.com/charlie Trip ID 30763

Adirondack Park: Mt. Marcy The

High Peaks region

is ground zero for

mountain climb-

ing in the East.

You could dayhike

to Marcy’s 5,344-

foot summit (the

state’s loftiest), but

take the 25.2-mile

Great Range route

instead. You’ll top

seven more 4,000-

foot peaks. (p. 43)

Hattiesburg: Black Creek TrailBurning quads are rare among Mississippi backpack-

ers. Which is why this 12.9-mile point-to-point along

the Wild and Scenic Black Creek is legendary for

its tough climbs and descents. You’ll roller-coaster

through long-leaf pines, oaks, and beech with inter-

mittent views into adjacent valleys. It’s great training

for mountain trips. Trip ID 330150

Tallahassee: Marsh Island Trail This lightly traveled 9.4-mile path

in Econfina River State Park strings

together sawgrass marshlands,

sandhill flats, and thick forests on

its way to end-of-the-earth views

overlooking the Gulf of Mexico.

Watch for egrets, herons, and bald

eagles. Trip ID 7757

Montpelier, VT: Cotton Brook Loop Hike beneath

the confetti of fall colors

on this 9.9-miler. You’ll trek

gentle logging roads and

crisscross Cotton Brook

to views of the Worcester

Range. Trip ID 8335Pittsburgh: Neshannock Creek Just an hour north of the Steel

City lies a rail-trail that parallels

this dreamy snow-fed creek. It’s

shrouded in fiery maples and oaks

come fall and is an ideal family

stroll. Trout bum? Target a rainy day.

This oxygenates and chills the water,

stirring up food and sediment—

encouraging them to bite. (p. 30)

Lexington, KY: Knobby Rock Loop This 4.8-miler links

caves, sandstone

towers, waterfalls,

and, yes, a knobby

overlook of old-

growth forest in

Blanton Forest State

Nature Preserve.

Trip ID 32359

PRINT & GO!



DESTINATIONS

DAYHIKES

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NESHANNOCK CREEK, PACAST A FLY TO LAND LUNKER BROWN TROUT.

Throngs of wily, foot-long browns inhabit

this lazy freestone stream (fed by snowmelt

and rain), but bright sunshine spotlights

anglers and scares fish away. Clouds and rain,

however, can ignite a feeding frenzy. Rainfall

oxygenates the water, stirring up food sources

and enough sediment to camouflage trout

and embolden them to bite. Stock up on

streamers at Neshannock Creek Fly Shop

(724-533-3212), pick up the rail-trail across

the street, and head south along the creek’s

western shore. Meander through hemlocks

and maples for 2.5 miles to Big Bend, where

trout cluster at the head of the pool. From

there, wade upstream and fish underwater

snags at the Coal Slide. Retrace your steps

along the shallow, rock-strewn bank back to

the trailhead. Not an angler? Catch the oak

and maple trees, beaming with autumnal

orange and reds. pagameandfish.com

RECHARGE

Warm up with tomato dumpling soup at the

Dumplin’ Haus in Volant. (724) 533-3732

THE WAY

In Volant, drive

north on Main

St. and park at

the fly shop,

opposite the

trailhead.

EMERALD POOLS, UTEXPLORE GUSHING, RAIN-FED WATERFALLS.

Water always dribbles over the cliff between

Middle and Lower Emerald Pools, in Zion

National Park—but rainstorms transform

that trickle into a dazzling torrent that lets

hikers pass behind a 15-foot-wide curtain of

water. From Zion Lodge, the 3.2-mile round-

trip route allows plenty of time to enjoy the

trio of pools. Take the Emerald Pools Trail

and follow the North Fork Virgin River before

contouring along a sandstone wall where

water trickles from above. At Lower Emerald

Pool, you’ll hear water drumming into the

60-foot-wide pond above; to stand at the

source, continue up the trail for another

half-mile to Middle Emerald Pool, where

water spills into a small basin. Cross to the

stream’s east side, then climb 250 feet in a

half-mile to Upper Emerald, which is fed by

a thundering waterfall and affords views of

Cathedral and Red Arch Mountains. Retrace

your steps to the trailhead. nps.gov/zion

RECHARGE

Watch the raindrops tumble as you slurp a

margarita at the Bit & Spur in

Springdale. (435) 772-3498;

bitandspur.com

THE WAY

From Zion Canyon’s south

entrance, ride the shuttle four

miles north to Zion Lodge.

Rainy Season HikesMake the best of fall storms on trails that improve with soggy weather.

MILL CREEK, CARAINS SUMMON SALMON AND SLUGS.

In any season, the 300-foot-tall redwoods

lining Mill Creek in Jedediah Smith Redwoods

State Park would be reason enough to

hike this 5.4-mile (round-trip) trail—but

autumn rains conjure a bonus. As precipita-

tion plumps up Mill Creek, steelhead, coho,

and chinook salmon take advantage of the

deeper waters to swim upstream and spawn.

Rain-lubricated leaves also create smooth

sliding surfaces for neon-yellow banana

slugs. Spot them among understory vines

and maple leaves glowing brilliant red and

yellow from October through December.

Start at the western trailhead on Howland

Hill Road and follow Mill Creek Trail as it bobs

among the ferns on the stream’s west side.

At 2.5 miles, you’ll hike right through a grove

of fat, wrinkled old-growth redwoods before

arriving at Stout Grove parking lot, your turn-

around point. nps.gov/redw

RECHARGE

Gulp down fish and chips at Crescent City’s

Chart Room. (707) 464-5993;

chartroomcrescentcity.com

THE WAY

From Crescent City, take US 101

one mile south, then turn left on

Elk Valley Rd. In one mile, turn

right on Howland Hill Rd. and go

2.5 miles to the trailhead.

3TOP

+ //////

HALO EFFECT: SUNLIGHT

POURS THROUGH THE

MIST NEAR MILL CREEK.


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The Wonder Open stands of virgin longleaf pines interspersed with low grasses once cov-

ered up to 90 million acres from Virginia to Texas, forming the Southeast’s dominant ecosys-

tem. In the last 200 years, fire suppression has allowed other species to flourish, while logging

of this sturdy, slow-growing tree with 1.5-foot needles has decimated 97 percent of its historic

range. Of the 2 to 3 million remaining acres, less than 1 percent contain gnarled old-growth

specimens, which can exceed 300 years in age and provide vital habitat

for endangered species like red-cockaded woodpeckers.

The Way The Nature Conservancy’s Moody Natural

Area 100 miles west of Savannah, Georgia, preserves

about 250 acres of old-growth longleaf pine. Tour it

on Tavia’s Trail, a three-mile lollipop beginning one

mile west of the park’s office. At .25 mile, look right

for the characteristic crooked crown at the 100-foot

tops of otherwise spear-straight trunks. Wander

among the giants, then turn left at .5 mile and drop

about 100 feet to the Altamaha River floodplain.

Follow the loop back to the office. nature.org

Natural Wonders

The Southeast’s Last Longleaf PinesWalk beneath trees that predate the Revolutionary War.

The Wonder From 9,393-foot He Devil Peak on its east rim, Hells Canyon on the Oregon/

Idaho border plunges 8,043 feet to the Snake River. About 6 million years ago, the area

uplifted and the Snake began its long descent, revealing igneous rocks on the lower canyon

walls that date back 300 million years. Melting glaciers, plus a spillover from nearby Lake

Bonneville about 16,000 years ago, fed the Snake and helped

accelerate the canyon’s ongoing deepening.

The Way From 6,982-foot Hat Point Lookout, the highest point

on the Oregon side of Hells Canyon National Recreation Area,

pick up Hat Point Trail for a four-mile out-and-back. Switchback

down nearly 1,500 vertical feet, looking east for top-to-bottom

views of the gorge and He Devil Peak, 10 miles away. At mile

two, enjoy a 180-degree view of the Snake, 4,000 feet below.

Climb back the way you came. fs.fed.us/hellscanyon

North America’s Deepest River GorgeHike into a canyon that could hold five stacked Sears Towers.

The Wonder Bighorn sheep’s namesake spirals of bone and

protein can surpass two feet in length and constitute 10 percent

of a ram’s body weight, or up to 30 pounds. Shielded by a hon-

eycombed skull that can absorb 20-mph impacts, rams clash

their mighty horns to establish dominance and mating rights to

females during the late-autumn rut.

The Way Pack 10x30 binoculars and park at the 8,500-foot

base of Saxon Mountain Road on the northernmost end of Main

Street in Georgetown, Colorado. Hike up 1,300 vertical feet of

switchbacks on an unnamed trail through lodgepole pine and aspen. At four miles, stop at

a west-facing overlook to glass the 330-member Georgetown herd—one of the largest and

oldest in the state—which often grazes on the opposite slope, about a mile away. Look for

the sheep’s white “long johns,” or rump patches that extend down their legs, and listen for

the gunshot-bang of rams clashing horns. Return for an eight-mile out-and-back, or continue

three more miles to the summit of 11,546-foot Saxon Mountain. town.georgetown.co.us

The West’s Most Violent Mating DisplayWitness bighorn rams’ skull-bashing attempts to win a date.

Three treks to life-list phenomena

DESTINATIONS

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///// /WEB EXTRA

RIDE THE SNAKEGet full beta on a 31.5-mile paddle through Hells Canyon’s class IV whitewater at backpacker.com/hellscanyon.

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Do it There’s no shortage of

wilderness areas named

paradise, but with its

waterfall-a-mile pace and

neck-craning granite walls,

this 18.2-mile out-and-back

actually lives up to that heavenly moniker.

You’ll see wildlife galore (think bears—can-

isters required—pine martens, bobcats,

and ringtails), and ascend to 7,000 feet on

this Sierra overnighter. Pick up your permit

at Road’s End Ranger Station (1) and head

east on the level Bubbs Creek Trail, where

you’ll meander through incense cedar,

white pine, and oak. The sandy trail passes

through a glacier-deposited boulder garden

(2) at mile .7 before dipping into a marshy

lowland along the banks of the South Fork

of the Kings River. Continue to the junction

with the Woods Creek Trail (3) at mile 1.9,

and head left (north). Trace the river and

its tributary creeks, passing beneath gran-

ite cliffs that tower more than 3,000 feet

above; their chiseled, chunky slopes could’ve

been painted by a Cubist-period Picasso.

You’ll begin your nearly 2,000-foot ascent

at mile 3.2 on a short-and-steep stone stair-

case (4) alongside the raging Kings River.

Glance back for a perfectly framed vista (5)

of The Sphinx, a 9,146-foot outcrop that

resembles its mythical namesake. The trail

passes tumbling cascades at mile 3.6 (6),

but press on for the real prize—Mist Falls (7),

a thundering, 60-foot wall of water .4 mile

later (see back page). From here, you’ll gain

almost a thousand feet in 1.6 miles en route

to riverside campsites at Lower Paradise

Valley (8). Continue past Middle Paradise

Valley camp (9), scanning for black bears

in the meadows to your right. The trail rolls

over several gentle hills, offering glimpses

of yet another waterfall pouring from the

northward cliffs. Reach your final destina-

tion—Upper Paradise Valley camp (10)—at

mile 9.1. Pitch your tent beneath behemoth

Jeffrey pines at site six, and let the river’s

roar lull you to sleep. Next day, retrace your

steps back to Road’s End.

TripPlanner


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Get there From Fresno,

take CA 180 east for 40

miles. Enter the park at Big

Stump and drive to Road’s

End Ranger Station, six

miles past Cedar Grove.

Permit Required (May to

September, $15). Reserve

them beginning March 1.

nps .gov/seki

Gear up The General Store

at Hume Lake Christian

Camp, 64144 Hume Lake

Road, Hume. (559) 305-

1275; humelake.org

Map Rae Lakes Loop Trail ($9,

sequoiahistory.org)

Trip data backpacker.com/

hikes/826549

✁

Hike in the spray of waterfalls deep in the heart of black bear country.

Paradise Valley Kings Canyon National Park

//// //MOBILE

MAP PLUS Send any Rip

& Go to your cell: Text

“imap” and the Trip ID

(826549 for this hike, from

Trip data, above) to 32075.

Day 1 Day 2

5,000 ft

8,000 ft

Rip&Go

Total Miles: 18.2

Data Map

MAP DATUM WGS84

1.3 1.61.2.7

mi.

2.1

23 4

9

1.4 9.1

5

1

10

8

6

7

.4.3.1

RETURN TO EDEN:

BEACH CAMPSITES LINE

THE SOUTH FORK KINGS

RIVER AT MILE 5.6.

UTM

11S 0362184E 4077589N


Hundreds of black bears

patrol Kings Canyon, and

Paradise Valley is one

of their favorite haunts.

Typically, the bruins aren’t

aggressive; but they are

gifted when it comes to raid-

ing your food. Don’t let them.

“When a bear gets human

food, it’s like a person shoot-

ing heroin for the first time,”

says wildlife biologist Daniel

Gammons. Here’s how to

handle three common bear

encounters.

Frontcountry If overnighting in

a car campsite prior to your

hike, don’t let the proximity

to infrastructure lull you into

a false sense of security. In

fact, “frontcountry bears

get very gutsy,” says wilder-

ness assistant Irene Corrao.

Prevent encounters by stow-

ing all smellables in your

site’s bear locker. If a bear

does come into your camp-

site, yell, bang pots, or honk

your horn until it retreats.

[ ] granola bars (1)

[ ] cookies (1)

[ ] Lipton Pasta

Sides (1)

[ ] raisins (1)

[ ] trail mix (1)

[ ] apricots (1)

[ ] bagels (1)

[ ] pancake mix (2)

[ ] avocado (3)

[ ] apples (3)

[ ] broccoli (3)

[ ] mushrooms (3)

[ ] cheddar cheese

(refrigerator)

[ ] salami (refrigerator)

Pack Vegetable oil,

maple syrup

THE GROCERY LISTOn The Menu

Breakfast 1

On the road

Lunches 1 & 2

Avocado and

cheese bagel;

apples

Dinner

Paradise Pasta

Breakfast 2

Bear Bait Pancakes

Snacks

Granola bars, trail

mix, cookies

Trail Backcountry bears tend

to shy away from hikers. Sing

or talk loudly, especially in

the meadows near Lower

Paradise Valley. Spot one?

Make noise to announce

yourself—a startled bear is a

dangerous bear—and back

away slowly. Never run. If a

black bear attacks, fight back.

Backcountry Store all smelly

items in campsite lockers or

a bear canister at least 50

yards from your tent. Avoid

stash spots near the river,

(lest it end up in the drink),

and don’t pin it between

rocks or branches, where a

bear could leverage off the

lid. Clean dishes and avoid

particularly fragrant foods

like bacon. If you wake to a

bear rummaging around your

site, get out of your tent and

drive it away by shouting

and throwing small rocks.

Continue hazing the bruin. If it

won’t be persuaded, pack up

and move camp.

NEAREST

GROCERY STORE

CLINGAN’S JUNCTION GROCERY35468 E. Kings Canyon Rd.,

Squaw Valley, CA; (559) 338-2404


Key Skill

MIST FALLSThe inviting series

of cascades dotting

the South Fork of the

Kings, along the lower

Woods Creek Trail,

are just preamble

for the main show:

Mist Falls. The rag-

ing waters shroud

the area in a constant curtain of mist, supporting a

community of spray-loving mosses, false buttercup,

and woodland stars. Hike the trail in late May to wit-

ness peak flow. Swimming is too dangerous, but the

inescapable spray provides refreshing relief after the

exposed, 600-foot climb over the previous two miles.

Bear Bait Pancakes A berry-laden and energy-

packed breakfast

1 cup blueberry pancake mix

¾ cup water

¼ cup raisins

¼ cup dried apricots

Vegetable oil

Maple syrup

Prepack oil and syrup in spill-

proof containers. Mix water,

raisins, and chopped apricots.

Heat oil over medium flame.

Spoon three tablespoons of

batter onto skillet; cook two

to three minutes per side.

Paradise Pasta Superhearty carbs dished up with

veggies and cheese

1 packet Lipton Pasta Sides (any

cheese flavor)

1 cup fresh broccoli

1 cup assorted mushrooms

3 ounces salami

3 ounces cheddar cheese

Cook pasta according to pack-

age directions. Chop broccoli and

mushrooms and add to pasta as

it cooks. Dice salami and cheese

and add to pot when pasta is

cooked; remove from heat and

stir until the cheese melts.

*

See This

Keeping food safe from bears

WEEKENDS

PIT STOP Get a custom slice (or three) at the Pizza Parlor in Grant Grove Village, where you can build your

own pie with helpings of sausage, mushrooms, peppers, and more. Three miles east of Big Stump park

entrance on CA 180; (866) 522-6966 ext. 334, sequoiakingscanyon.com/cabins.html

Paradise Valley

Locals KnowGot more than a weekend? You’re in luck: Paradise Valley forms the western leg of

the classic, 46-mile Rae Lakes Loop that links sparkling lakes, 11,000-foot passes,

flower-choked meadows, and granite canyons. Take a week to cover this challeng-

ing terrain. Start heading north through Paradise Valley and hike clockwise to the

South Fork Trail, pitching your tent at Upper Paradise Valley, Woods Creek junction,

60 Lakes Basin, Rae Lakes, Charlotte Lake, and Junction Meadow. Note: This loop is

popular in summer, but by October, you can usually score walk-up permits.

DESTINATIONS

//////VIDEOS

BEAR AWARE

Learn how to

scour dishes clean

at backpacker.com/

cleancamp.

(AISLE #) IN NEAREST STORE BELOW

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Do it Take this steep path

to a rare, 11.9-mile inner-

canyon loop hike, sublime

views from Horseshoe

Mesa, and a peek into the

Canyon’s mining past. Hike

September to June to avoid the searing heat;

in winter, pack lightweight crampons—ice

can make the upper trail treacherous. From

Grandview Point (1), pack a gallon of water

per person and descend gravel switchbacks

on the Grandview Trail. At mile 1.1, rest your

knees at Coconino Saddle (2), a shady over-

look above an east-facing gully. Continue

down past daisies and vibrant-red desert

paintbrushes (May), then emerge onto

wide-open Horseshoe Mesa, which reaches

two long arms west and north (3). Here,

you’ll encounter Pete Berry’s Last Chance

Mine, a shady nook with copper-mining-era

pickaxes rusting in place. Head east past the

ruined cookhouse (4) at mile 2.8, and take

the East Horseshoe Mesa Trail toward Hance

Creek. Descend steeply off the mesa with

views of the Canyon’s clay-red slopes dotted

with juniper and sagebrush. At mile 3.5, fill

reservoirs at Miner’s Spring (5), a perennial

oasis with a small pool and fresh drip, and

camp near Hance Creek. Next morning, take

the Tonto Trail (6) heading northwest to

begin a relatively level, 4.7-mile loop around

Horseshoe Mesa. At mile 7.3, reach the junc-

tion with a use trail (7) looking south into the

mesa’s thousand-foot-high walls layered in

heather, russet, and slate blue. From here,

take your pick: Continue northwest on the

Tonto Trail to Cottonwood Creek and camp

near the spring at mile 9.4, or head south to

ascend the easy route up Horseshoe Mesa

and camp in a designated site (8). The latter

option shaves 1,200 feet off the next day’s

climbing and clears the way for a 1.5-mile

(one-way) hike over razor-edge cliffs to catch

the sunset on Horseshoe Mesa’s western-

most tip. The 300-degree view of sunset-

streaked Zoroaster Temple will redefine your

sense of grandeur. Next morning, link up

with the Grandview Trail and begin the long,

2,600-foot ascent up to Grandview Point.

Descend to the Ditch’s primitive core on a three-day loop.

Grandview LoopGrand Canyon, South Rim

The way From the South

Rim entrance, drive 12 miles

east along Desert View Dr.

to Grandview Point.

Permit $10 plus $5/person

per night. Reserve four

months ahead. Download

permit request form (nps

.gov/grca/planyourvisit/

upload/permit-request.pdf)

and fax to (928) 638-2125.

Gear up Canyon Village

Marketplace, South Rim.

(928) 638-2262

TripPlanner

//// //MOBILE

APP PLUS Navigate easily

with GPS Trails for your

smartphone. backpacker

.com/iphone or /android

Day 1 Day 2 Day 3

3,500 ft8,000 ft

Rip&Go

✁

Maps USGS quads Cape

Royal and Grandview Point

($8, store.usgs.gov)


hikes/823945

Total Miles: 11.9

1.1 .81.6 3.0 2.9

42 6

573

mi.

8

1.7.7

1

MAP DATUM WGS84

Data Map

BABY GRAND: SCORE THIS VIEW OF

ZOROASTER TEMPLE FROM THE

WESTERN ARM OF HORSESHOE MESA.

UTM 12S 0411447E 3988317N

.1



+

DESTINATIONS

The killer combination of dry

heat, relentless sun, infre-

quent water sources, and

steep terrain makes dehydra-

tion and heat-related illness

all too common in the Grand.

Here’s how to stay safe:

Water You’ll need to carry a

gallon of water per person

per day. MSR Dromedary

bags come in four sizes, the

nylon outer resists punctures,

and the cap screws on tight

to prevent accidental leak-

age—even under pressure.

A hard rubber collar around

the opening makes it easy to

hold while filling. Attach the

Hydration Kit ($20) hose to

the reservoir to keep water at

hand and encourage constant

sipping. $35; 6.9 oz. (for the

four-liter); msrcorp.com

Back up Pack two hard-sided

one-liter bottles and store

them inside your pack to keep

water cooler.

[ ] hoagies (deli)

[ ] baby spinach

(produce)

[ ] 1 cucumber (produce)

[ ] 2 small tomatoes

(produce)

[ ] parsley (produce)

[ ] lemon (produce)

[ ] bagels (1)

[ ] pitas (1)

[ ] dinner rolls (1)

[ ] sunflower seeds (1)

[ ] cannellini beans (2)

[ ] 1 box couscous (2)

[ ] granola (2)

[ ] dried milk (2)

[ ] 6 oz. pouch tuna (3)

[ ] 7 oz. pouch chicken (3)

[ ] peanut butter (5)

[ ] honey (5)

[ ] salad dressing (5)

[ ] dried blueberries (6)

[ ] craisins (6)

[ ] trail mix (6)

Pack Olive oil

Breakfast 1

On the road

Lunch 1

Hoagies from

Canyon Village

Dinner 1

Switchback Salad

Breakfast 2 and 3

Granola with dried

blueberries

Lunch 2

Bagels with peanut

butter and honey

Dinner 2

Canyon Couscous

Snacks

Trail mix

CAVE OF THE DOMES An estimated 1,000 caves

pock the Grand Canyon’s

Redwall, but only one is

open to recreational use.

Spend a cool afternoon

in Cave of the Domes,

accessed via the precipi-

tous Trail-of-the-Caves

Trail, near the ruined cookhouse at mile 2.8. Crawl

inside, and explore the cave’s many rooms, rough

walls, stone pillars, and 10-plus-foot-high, domed

ceilings with inscriptions dating back more than 100

years. If you plan to explore the cave, carry a head-

lamp, backup flashlight, and extra batteries. Some

spelunkers unspool rope to avoid becoming lost.

Switchback SaladA protein-rich, no-cook meal

Bag of baby spinach

15 ounces cannellini beans

6-ounce pouch tuna

1 cucumber, diced

2 tomatoes, diced

1 small lemon for juice

Small bunch parsley, chopped

2 tablespoons olive oil

Combine first five ingredients

in a bowl. Mix olive oil and

lemon juice, and pour over

salad. Serve with dinner rolls.

Canyon No-Cook CouscousNutritious, delicious, and easy

1 box couscous

1 tablespoon olive oil

1¼ cup water

½ cup craisins

½ cup sunflower seeds

1 packet salad dressing

1 7-ounce pouch chicken

Day before: Combine couscous,

water, and olive oil in a zip-top

bag and let sit overnight.

Night of: Stir in remaining ingre-

dients and spoon into pitas.

*

See This

Heat-aware hiking

WEEKENDS

On The Menu THE GROCERY LIST

NEAREST GROCERY STORETHE CANYON VILLAGE MARKETPLACEGrand Canyon Village,South Rim; (928) 638-2262

PIT STOP Fuel up with a burger at Cruisers Café, and sample the Sunset Amber Ale—one

of seven canyon-inspired microbrews—from the adjacent Grand Canyon Brewing

Company. 233 W. Rte. 66, Williams, AZ; (928) 635-2445

Grandview Loop

Timing Start early (6 a.m.)

and rest frequently. Avoid

hiking between 10 a.m. and

3 p.m., the hottest part of

the day.

Danger Feeling flushed? The

early stages of heat-related

illness include cramps,

fatigue, and muscle pain.

Apply cool water to the

neck, armpits, and inner

thighs (where the carotid,

brachial, and femoral arter-

ies approach the skin’s sur-

face), and fan to facilitate

evaporative cooling.

KeySkill


Locals KnowPete Berry’s Last Chance copper mine thrived at the turn of the 20th century.

In 1893, Berry constructed the Grandview Trail—loosely following an old Native

American route—to get supplies in and ore out, with heavily laden mules traveling

the steep path daily. Hikers still use the cobblestone paths and original log “cribs”

that support the steep cliffside switchbacks, all of which Berry and his work-

ers built by hand. When mining became unprofitable, Berry built the two-story

Grandview Hotel, and mules carried visitors instead of ore. Around the mine ruins,

find chips of blue ore that Native Americans used to make dye.

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Do it This 16.8-mile loop

serves up a weekend clas-

sic: waterfall-filled hollows,

lush forests, and gorgeous

backcountry campsites.

Take Skyline Drive to

Mile 21 and the trailhead (1). Follow the

Appalachian Trail .2 mile before turning

right and beginning a gentle southbound

descent on the shady Sugarloaf Trail,

then east on the Pole Bridge Link Trail (2),

beneath a canopy of maple and ash that

burn crimson and orange in October. After

crossing Keyser Run Road, yellow poplars

line the path to Little Devils Stairs Trail

(3). Begin the rocky 1,200-foot descent

down Keyser Run, preparing for wide and

slippery crossings of the stream pouring

into the narrow gorge. Rest at the hollow’s

end before heading southwest on Keyser

Run Fire Road and veering right as you

pass through a gate (4) just 30 yards later.

Continue south on Hull School Trail, explor-

ing the quiet Jenkins/Keyser cemetery, bear-

ing the ancestral graves of frontier family

members evicted in the 1930s. Trace the

western base of 2,531-foot Pignut Mountain

(5) before turning left onto Piney Branch

Trail for .1 mile (6). Cross Piney River and

turn right to return to the yellow-blazed Hull

School Trail. At the four-way junction (7),

take a right onto Thornton River Trail. Head

north, passing between narrowing granite

walls and winding along a sinuous river.

The path swerves left after a short ford of

North Fork Thornton River (8). Go right off-

trail and camp in a sheltered glade .1 mile

later. Next day, hike up the Blue Ridge, cross

Skyline Drive, and stay left on the Thornton

River Trail (9). Turn right onto the AT, and

climb the wooded ridgeline for two miles.

Head left onto Elkwallow Trail (10) and

begin the sharp climb up Jeremy’s Run. At

Mathews Arm Campground, cross the road

to pick up Mathews Arm Trail (11). Climb the

Tuscarora Trail (12), and power 500 feet up

the western ridge of Hogback Mountain.

Head left on the AT (13) to the trailhead.

✁

Ramble through brilliant red and yellow fall foliage.

Mathews Arm Loop Shenandoah National Park

The way From Front Royal,

take Skyline Dr. south to

mile marker 21 and park

in the lot on the right after

Hogback Overlook.

Gear up Weasel Creek

Outfitters, Inc., 221 East

Main St., Front Royal, VA.

(540) 622-6909

Permit Required (free);

available at the Front Royal

Entrance Station.

Map Trails Illustrated

TripPlanner

1,200 ft

Rip&Go

YOUR TURN Submit trip

reports for a chance

to win free gear! Go to

backpacker.com/mapcontest.

Shenandoah National Park

($12, natgeomaps.com)


hikes/17056

Total Miles: 16.8

4,000 ft

1.7

mi.

.5 1.4

Data Map

EMERALD TO RUBY: THE ASH CANOPY NEAR THE THORNTON RIVER TRAIL (MILE 7.5) MORPHS INTO DEEP RED COME OCTOBER.

UTM 17S 0736655E 4288530N

2.0 1.2 1.51.4.7 2.5

MAP DATUM WGS84

2.4

Day 1 Day 2

/// ///MAPS

2 31 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 1312

.5 .7 .3



DESTINATIONS

[ ] whole-grain

bread (entrance)

[ ] 1 jar almond

butter (2)

[ ] honey (2)

[ ] 1 bag dried

fruit (2)

[ ] 1 pouch tuna (3)

[ ] linguine (4)

[ ] cinnamon (5)

[ ] dried oregano (5)

[ ] garlic powder (5)

[ ] red pepper

flakes (5)

[ ] 1 bag cheddar

sticks (17)

[ ] 2 tomatoes

(produce)

Pack Olive oil, salt

THE GROCERY LISTOn The Menu

Breakfast 1

On the road

Lunches 1 & 2

Tomato sandwich

with garlic-olive oil

dressing

Dinner 1

Spicy Tuna Linguine

Breakfast 2

Mathews Arm

Almond Toast

Snacks

Cheddar sticks,

dried fruit

SHENANDOAH SALAMANDERThis endangered, finger-length amphibian lives exclu-

sively in moist soil under rocks and forest debris on the

talus slopes of Shenandoah’s Pinnacles, Stony Man,

and Hawksbill Mountains. Scientists don’t know how

many individuals inhabit this tiny range, which includes

a similar-looking,

more common—and

competing—relative,

the red-backed sala-

mander. Both sport a

yellowish-red stripe

on their backs, but

the Shenandoah’s is

much narrower—just

one-third of its body.

Spicy Tuna LinguineA one-pot, Italian classic

8 ounces linguine

2 tablespoons olive oil

½ teaspoon garlic powder

¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes

¼ teaspoon dried oregano

1 pouch tuna in oil

Salt to taste

Boil pasta, drain, and set aside.

Sauté spices in olive oil until

garlic powder turns golden

brown. Add tuna and heat until

bubbling. Return linguine to pot,

toss and serve.

Skyline Almond ToastCinnamon dresses up this sur-

prisingly satisfying breakfast.

2 slices whole-grain bread

2 oz. almond butter

1 oz. honey

¼ teaspoon cinnamon

Pan fry bread until toasted.

Spread almond butter on each

slice, drizzle with honey, and

sprinkle cinnamon on top.

Repeat. Devour.

*

See This

WEEKENDS

KeySkillDitch the itch

Within Shenandoah’s nearly

200,000 forested acres

lurk blistering poison ivy

and disease-carrying ticks.

Follow these tips to enjoy the

Shennies rash-free.

Defend

Wear long sleeves and tuck

pant legs into socks to avoid

poison ivy (three-leaved

plants that turn red in fall);

apply deet to fend off ticks

(we like 3M Ultrathon;

solutions.3m.com). If you

touch a suspicious plant,

wipe skin with rubbing

alcohol, then rinse with

water—removing poison ivy’s

irritating urushiol oil within

about an hour improves your

chance of preventing or mini-

mizing a reaction.


Mathews Arm Loop

Locals KnowAbout 98 percent of Shenandoah’s leaves

change color each fall, usually peaking the

second or third week of October. “We’ve

got quite a diversity [about 150 to 200

species] of trees here,” park ranger Mara

Meisel says. “So the color range is really

tremendous.” Though rust-colored oak is the predominant hue, the park’s

varied elevation, moisture, and forest age result in a patchwork of golden

hickory and poplar, scarlet black gum and maple, and even purple dogwood.

For classic dayhiker vistas, walk to Hogback Overlook just east of the Mathews

Arm Loop trailhead. To gain views without the throngs of leaf-peepers, climb the

3,212-foot summit of South Marshall, a generally quiet 1.5-mile out-and-back

on the AT (starting from Skyline Drive at mile 15.9). Also look for unexpected

fall flair in the trailside understory, where spidery yellow flowers adorn the bare,

twiggy branches of witch hazel.

PIT STOP Taste the South with a house-rubbed pulled pork sandwich at Soul

Mountain Restaurant, 300 E. Main Street, Front Royal, VA; (540) 636-0070.

Diagnose

About eight to 48 hours after

ivy exposure, an itchy, red,

streaky, blistered (but non-

contagious) rash will appear.

Check daily for ticks; initially

they look like inconspicuous

black dots at the hairline,

waistband, and sockline. You

may not feel them even once

they’ve begun burrowing.

Treat

Soothe ivy rashes with wet

compresses and calamine

lotion (or make a salve of

cold water and oatmeal).

Pluck embedded ticks with

tweezers; pull straight out,

slow and steady, then wash

area with soap and water.

Fever or new rash within a

month? See a doctor.

NEAREST GROCERY STORE FOOD LION260 Remount Rd., Front Royal, VA; (540) 622-2704

��/(.,�86$

We recommend

CorkliteSpeedLock poles.

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My Backyard: North Cascades by Cori Connerk d: North Cascades by

Wilderness Patrol

Supervisor Cori Conner,

32, is a 12-year veteran

of the Park Service. She

spends 75 percent of her

time in the field, and has

joined 50-plus SAR ops.

Why the Cascades?

Because I feel that I am com-

pletely in the wild. The park

is pure, unadulterated wil-

derness. It’s rugged, remote,

inaccessible, and most of all,

completely untamed.

When is the best time to visit?

Late summer or early

autumn. The colors are turn-

ing, the weather is generally

clear and crisp, and the mos-

quitoes are finally down.

How do you beat the crowds?

What crowds? Forty-two

years after its designation,

the park is still an undiscov-

ered gem. There are nearly

unlimited opportunities for

solitude in beautiful places.

We only issue about 10,000

backcountry permits a year,

and that is for the entire

684,000 acres. Help us

keep this place wild. If you

come to visit, leave no trace.

EPICENTER

My Backyard: NNor

1. TOP RIDGE WALK

The 34.3-mile Copper Ridge

loop offers four days of bird’s-

eye views, glaciated peaks,

and shimmering lakes. From

the Hannegan trailhead, hike

up the Copper Ridge Trail to

see 9,127-foot Mt. Shuksan

across the often-cloud-filled

Chilliwack Valley. Return via

the Chilliwack River Trail.

DESTINATIONS

7. FAVORITE FOREST DAYHIKE

Old-growth fir and red

cedars give way to lodge-

pole pines on the short,

four-mile loop on Thunder

Knob Trail. You’ll pass from

wet, moss-lined forest to

a drier area with between-

the-pines views of 6,120-

foot Sourdough Mountain.3


8. TOP FIRE-TOWER HIKE

Take the 6.8-mile (one-

way) Desolation Peak

Trail up the dry, rocky

path to summit the

6,102-foot peak and

see the fire tower Jack

Kerouac tended as he

wrote Dharma Bums and

Desolation Angels.

3. PREMIER CAMPSITE

Perched high above its name-

sake glacier, Sahale Glacier

Camp is your dry land in a sea

of ice and sky-tearing peaks.

Pitch your tent here for argu-

ably the best view in the park.

Get there: Link Cascade Pass

and Sahale Arm Trails for a

10.6-mile overnight.

the C

2. BEST ALPINE CLIMBMt. Shuksan via the FisherChimneys route. Start at LakeAnn trailhead, climb throughthe Chimneys with sectionsof gentle 5.2 rock, and stayroped up for 40-degreesnowfields on Winnie’s Slideto Sulphide Glacier at HellsHighway. Top out for summitviews of 10,781-foot Mt. Baker.

/// ///MAPS

GO DEEPExplore the North Cascades’ famously wild interior with five trips at backpacker.com/northcascades.

+

5. EASY-ACCESS FLY-FISHING

Pull wriggling rainbow and

cutthroat trout out of milky

blue Stehekin River. Camp

along the water at Harlequin

Camp, 4.4 miles up the River

Trail from Stehekin Landing.

ner

g.

2

4. DEEPEST SNOW

Strap on snowshoes (or

posthole up to your eye-

balls) for a 10-mile loop

on the Thornton Lake Trail.

You’ll cross countless small

creeks, fir-covered slopes,

and talus fields opening

onto unhindered views

of the snaggletoothed

Southern Pickets.

4

5

8

7

9. PUREST SOLITUDE

At Whatcom Pass, deep in

the park’s rugged interior,

you’ll enjoy private views of

the Beaver Creek Drainage

and glacier-sheathed

Whatcom Peak. Access it

on a five-day, 46.8-mile

trek from Hannegan trail-

head to Ross Dam.

6. BEST SKI ADVENTURE

Tackle the experts-only,

19-mile Forbidden Ski Tour.

You’ll weave around glaciers

and yo-yo through 21,000 feet

of elevation change. Start at

Eldorado Creek trailhead, nav-

igate around Forbidden Peak,

then descend to glacier-blue

Moraine Lake. Close the loop

along Rousch Creek drainage.

1

6

9


It’s always about the journey, of course, but some-

times that’s more true than others. Such as on a

climb of 5,344-foot Mt. Marcy, where you’ll shoot

into the most peak-packed section of 6-million-acre

Adirondack Park. The most sporting route is the

25.2-mile Great Range approach. You’ll scramble as much as hike as

you tag eight of the range’s tallest 46 peaks.

Pack your bear canister (required) and start the three-day loop

from The Garden trailhead at the end of John’s Brook Road in Keene

Valley. Ascend 2.9 miles on the Southside Trail to the Wolf Jaws

Trail, then set foot on the rocky spine of the Great Range, the most

airy and view-rich traverse in the Adirondacks. Hike along the root-

knotted ridge rising up and over Upper Wolf Jaw and Armstrong

Mountain. Next stop: 4,736-foot Gothics, with backside cables to

assist on the descent, then Saddleback and Basin Mountains. Camp

at the old Sno Bird Lean-To site .8 mile past the summit of Basin,

with room for three tents next to the brook.

Next day, intersect the Haystack Trail in .5 mile and follow it

through stunted spruce over Little Haystack and Mt. Haystack, suck-

ing in your first view of plunging Panther Gorge and Mt. Marcy to

the west. At Four Corners, drop your pack and bag 4,926-foot Mt.

Skylight (a steep, 1.2-mile out-and-back). And now the finale: Climb

up 800 feet over loose rocks and scrub on Marcy’s bald southwest

slope. Alpine vegetation carpets the

summit area, with views of the rounded,

tree-covered High Peaks, and diamond-

bright lakes shining below. Camp at

Slant Rock campsite beneath an over-

hanging boulder, then take the Phelps

Trail 6.5 miles back to The Garden.

Mt. Marcy

/// ///MAPS

SNEAK PEAKSDownload an Adirondacks Five Mountain Loop tracklog at backpacker .com/fivemountainloop.

The Best...Guidebook

Adirondack Trails:

High Peaks Region

($20, adk.org)

Campground

Adirondak Loj

Wilderness

Campground on

the shores of Heart

Lake ($35 for two

people). adk.org

Peak to view Marcy

Climb 4,960-foot

Mt. Haystack, via

3.5-mile-long

Bartlett Ridge from

Warden’s Camp.

You’ll see Panther

Gorge’s deep void

and experience airy

solitude punctuated

by the High Peaks.

Eats

Noonmark Diner

in Keene Valley,

famous for its pies

and killer milkshakes.

noonmarkdiner.com

SOUTHEASTERN VIEW FROM MARCY’S SUMMIT

The

Peak

HIGHPOINT: MT. MARCY (SEEN HERE FROM MT. HAYSTACK) FORMS THE WESTERN

WALL OF PANTHER GORGE.

UTM 18T 0587983E 4884206N

HEART LAKE



BASECAMP

Yes, we go into the wilderness to leave civilization behind. But that doesn’t mean it’s OK to act like a barbarian. Take our quiz and rate your trailside manners.

How’s Your Camping Etiquette?

//////

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1. A big, muddy puddle swamps the trail. Your move?A) Walk off-trail, around the mud, to keep your feet dryB) Slosh on through. That’s what Gore-tex is for.

2. Trail hygiene is tough. When the gorp gets

passed around, you should...A) Dig in—the risk of spreading germs this way is

wildly exaggerated

B) Pour it into your palm, because who knows

whether Joe ‘Nose Blow’ Schmoe dosed with Purell?

C) Set a good example by not sharing your gorp at all.

This definitely prevents contamination.

3. It’s time to clean dishes. What’s the minimum you should do?A) Lick your plates, and let

partners (and Fido) lick theirs

B) Wipe ’em clean with paper

towels and air-dry. The expo-

sure will kill germs by morning.

C) Rinse dishes in boiling water

to sterilize, and air-dry

D) Boil water, add soap, wash

dishes, then rinse them in a pot

of purified water, and air-dry

4. You doused

the campfire

with a big pot

of water. Now

what? At estab-

lished sites, you

should...A) Leave the fire

ring as is

B) Scatter all of

the ash remains

and disassemble

the fire ring

C) Scatter the

big ash pieces so

the mess doesn’t

overwhelm the

fire ring (but

leave the ring so

the next camp-

ers don’t create a

new one)

5. Skinny-dipping in a remote

backcountry lake is...A) Awesome

B) Illegal in 43 states

C) Cool if you’re fairly clean and other

campers aren’t nearby

D) Uncool unless your name is

Megan Fox or Robert Pattinson

6. When you need to whiz, you do it how far from the trail?A) 6 inchesB) 100 yardsC) Out of sight and 200 feet from any water source, except in specific situations 7. Pick the surfaces you should NOT walk on, either for safety or LNT reasons:A) Microbiotic soil

B) 38-degree talus slopes

C) Lichen-covered rocks

D) Graupel

E) The midpoint of a cornice

F) Baby moose or elk tracks

G) Quicksand

8. It’s fire time and you break out the single malt. You should...A) Slug it, pass it around, repeat

B) Taunt people who don’t partake

C) Hoard it—you carried it, after all

D) Trade shots for Snickers

9. While tied into a rope team on Mt.

Rainier, you really have to go—#2. You...A) Hold it, at great risk to your undies

B) Unrope and traverse 100 yards

C) Set to while your partners look away

D) You’re not wearing a diaper?

10. It’s OK to trundle rocks if…A) You look and yell to make sure no one is in the line of fireB) Your friend rolls one firstC) It’s never OK to trundle


11. It’s fine to throw apple cores, orange

peels, and seeds into the forest.A) True B) False

20. In a campground, you should keep noise down until what time in the A.M.?A) 8 a.m.

B) 9 a.m.

C) All day. People go camping for the

peace and quiet.

D) Never. Loud noise (especially heavy

metal) keeps bears away.

12. When nature calls, what should you do with your TP afterward?A) Bury it six inches deep or burn it

B) Pack it out

C) Put it in your partner’s top pocket

D) What TP? I use leaves.

13. Pack out solid waste...A) Always

B) On rivers

C) In fragile

desert areas

14. When two parties meet on a

narrow, cliffside trail, who yields?

Choose all that apply:A) People moving uphill

B) People moving downhill

C) Smaller party

D) Larger party

E) The party with the worst BO

21. You’re hiking on lands protected from hunting, and you

encounter a group of camo-clad hunters. What do you do?A) Lecture time, baby!

B) Say nothing, do nothing. They have guns.

C) Politely ask to see their licenses. Nature can’t protect itself.

D) Ask to borrow some blaze orange

22. Bathing with soap in a river or lake is…A) OK

B) Not OK. Collect water

and bathe 200 feet away

16. Because horses are big and harder to control, they must yield to hikers and bikers on the trail.A) True B) False

23. You’re brushing your teeth. Where to spit?A) Away from camp

B) In the nearest stream

C) On the fire

25. It’s dark, rainy, and the lean-to is full. A soggy hiker approaches. You should…A) Pretend you’re sleepingB) Move over. There’s no such thing as a full shelter in rain.C) Send him away with your regrets. First come, first served.D) Tell him you think you saw another, less-crowded shelter about a mile up the trail

24. Dinner is done and only wash water remains. What to do with it?A) Bottoms up!

You’re an LNT

master!

B) Pour it down

the privy hole

C) Strain and pack

out big bits; dis-

perse liquid 200

feet from water

Genteel or a Heel?

Scoring Give yourself one point for each correct answer.» 0 to 5 You have trouble finding hiking partners, don’t you? Please go to

backpacker.com/camp_etiquette for remedial lessons.

» 6 to 10 We’re laughing with you, not at you. Really.

» 11 to 20 Good showing. There’s room for improvement, but we’re only human.

» 21 to 30 You’re welcome to join our hikes anytime.

» 31 A freakishly perfect score. Relax, would you? It’s the woods!

17. The best way to use a cell phone:A) Bluetooth in ear

B) Secretly and away from others

C) Never. This is the wilderness, dude!

ANSWER KEY 1. B, to prevent erosion 2. B 3. C 4. C 5. C. DEET and sunblock pollute rivers. 6. C, except

when on high-volume rivers (1,000-plus cfs) and you can’t leave the river corridor 7. One point

for each: A (This crust of moss and lichen prevents erosion and promotes plant growth. When

trampled, it can take 250 years to recover.); B (high rockfall hazard); D (These snow pellets can act

like ball bearings underfoot and destabilize snow slopes.); E (The cornice might collapse.); and

G (duh) 8. A 9. C, to avoid falling in a crevasse while doing your business 10. C 11. B. This food, while

biodegradable, is unnatural for wildlife; it can harm them or make them dependent. 12. B. 13. B and

C (one point for each) 14. B 15. B and C (one point for each) 16. B. Both yield to horses. 17. B 18. C

19. B 20. C 21. C. Or call land managers. 22. B. See #5. 23. A. Spray it through pursed lips 24. C 25. B

19. A brand new water purifier is just lying on the trail. Your move?A) Hike on. Who needs extra ballast?

B) Grab it in hopes of finding its owner

C) Pick it up and leave your iodine

tablets behind. Hello upgrade!

15. On a weekend AT trek, you share a camp with two

hungry-looking thru-hikers. You should…A) Keep a close eye on your food bag

B) Make a big dinner and offer them some

C) Give them your remaining food when you hike out

18. You see a fly-fisherman casting at a secluded lake. You...A) Grab your rod and join him!

B) Take a dip, then skip rocks

C) Keep your distance


2

1

TheManualForecast the Weather

There’s an old saying in the Presidential Range: “If you don’t like the weather, wait a moment.” Funny how that saying also crops up in the Sierra, the Rockies, the Appalachians, and most other mountain ranges. In the backcountry, weather can—and will—change quickly and dramatically. In our new book, BACKPACKER’s Predicting the Weather ($13, falcon.com), excerpted here, Lisa Densmore teaches you how to read the skies for safer, drier outings.

Elemental Ingredients1. Air temperature While ground temps

determine the number of layers you wear, the

mercury up high dictates whether you’ll need

raingear. As warm air rises, it cools off and

approaches its dew point (the temperature

at which water vapor turns to droplets).

Heavy droplets then fall to earth as precip.

2. Wind The stronger it is, the colder it feels

(e.g., a 30°F day with 30-mph winds feels like

15°F). For a windchill chart, go to backpacker

.com/windchill. Wind also signals change.

3. Humidity Relative humidity (RH) is the

amount of moisture in the air divided by how

much water the air can hold at that temp

(times 100). So an RH of 100 percent means

the air is saturated (aka, at its dew point),

and rain is coming. High humidity makes cold

feel colder and heat hotter, via conduction. As

air rises and cools, relative humidity increases.

4. Barometric pressure This is the weight

(per unit area) that the air exerts on the earth.

A warm air mass is always lighter (less dense)

than a cold air mass, and thus exerts less

pressure. If the barometric pressure is falling,

a warm front is coming in. If the barometric

pressure is rising, a cold front is approaching.

FIGURING OUT FRONTS Colliding air masses are known as fronts. Like one car rear-ending another, the

incoming front—typically from the west in the northern hemisphere—rams into

the outgoing front, pushing it eastward. The faster the new front, the more vio-

lent the collision and the stormier the resulting weather. There are three types:

SKILLS

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Cold AirCool Air

Warm Occluded Front

Warm Front

Warm Air

Cold Occluded Front

Very Cold Air Cold Air

Warm Air

Cold Front

Cold Air

1. Warm fronts A warm air mass arrives and

rises slowly above the cold air ahead and

gradually cools to its dew point.

Signs Low barometric pressure, high

humidity, low cloud ceiling

Result Fairly calm winds (max speed

of 20 mph) at the front’s leading

edge; steady rain for days

2. Cold fronts Fast-moving, unstable

cold air pushes under the warm air

ahead, forcing it up quickly and cool-

ing it. Heavy rain might result.

Signs High barometric pressure, high

cloud ceiling, good visibility unless

precipitation is present

Result Fair weather that can change

quickly; strong winds, generally from

the north or west; and severe but

brief thunderstorms or snow squalls

3. Occluded fronts A battle royal of three

air masses. A fast-moving cold front over-

takes a warm front, lifting (occluding) the

warm air mass. The incoming cold front

then collides with the departing cold air

mass. If the incoming cold front is warmer

than the departing one (a situation

dubbed a warm occluded front, WOF), the

new cold front climbs over the exiting one

while trapping the warm front high in the

middle. If the incoming cold front is colder

than the departing one, it wedges under it

(aka, a cold occluded front, COF).

Signs Wind direction changes, usually so it

blows from the north-northwest; falling,

then rising barometric pressure

Result Storms possible; light to heavy rain

followed by dry weather after the front

exits. With WOFs, cold temps get milder;

with COFs, cold temps get even colder.


+ //////


45

3Altitude Check If your altimeter shows a rise

in elevation even though you

haven’t moved, it means the

barometric pressure has fallen

and a low-pressure storm system

has arrived. A fall in elevation

signals rising barometric pressure

and an incoming high-pressure

(good weather) system.

TEST YOUR METEOROLOGICAL IQWhich of these old wives’ tales are accurate and which are bunk?

1. Tornadoes never occur in the mountains. T/F

2. The sky’s color at sunset predicts the weather. T/F

3. Geese won’t fly before a storm. T/F

4. You can predict a fair day with a cup of coffee. T/F

5. Songbirds sing louder just before a storm. T/F

ANSWERS 1. False Though less frequent, they do happen. In 2004 a tornado touched down

in Sequoia NP at an elevation of 12,000 feet. 2. True and false You’ve heard, “Red sky at night,

sailor’s delight. Red sky in the morning, sailors take warning.” The sky’s redness is caused

by sunrays reflecting off dust particles when there’s little cloud cover and stable air. Our

weather typically comes from the west, so a red sky at dusk means a high-pressure

system (good weather) is coming. A red sky as the sun rises in the east means the

high-pressure system has already passed, and a low-pressure storm system may be

approaching, especially if the sky is a deep, fiery red (a sign of water vapor). With pol-

luted air, all bets are off. Smog causes red skies at dawn and dusk. 3. True Neither will

seagulls; hoofed animals, meanwhile, head for lower elevations. 4. True Stir your coffee,

creating bubbles. If the bubbles amass in the center, you’re in a high-pressure system,

which is making the coffee’s surface convex (higher in the middle). Since bubbles

are mostly air, they migrate to the highest point. It’s going to be a beautiful day. If the

bubbles form a ring around the sides of the mug, you’re in a low-pressure system, mak-

ing the surface concave. Rain is likely. Note: It has to be strong, brewed coffee to have

enough oil to work, and the mug must have straight sides. 5. False In fact, some become

quiet. 6. True With low barometric pressure, natural springs flow from the ground faster.

Also, ponds look cloudier since a higher volume of marsh gases brings muck to the sur-

face. 7. True Count the chirps for 14 seconds, then add 40. So 20 chirps means it’s 60°F

outside. Crickets are correct within one or two degrees 75 percent of the time. 8. True This

means a high-pressure system is upon you. But if, on a calm night, smoke hugs the ground,

then disperses, a low-pressure system has arrived. 9. True Humidity and wind from low-

pressure systems carry sound waves farther. 10. Mostly true It’s the calm before the storm.

6. Springs flow faster when a storm approaches. T/F

7. Counting cricket chirps tells you the temperature. T/F

8. Smoke rising straight signals a fair day tomorrow. T/F

9. Sound travels farther when a storm approaches. T/F

10. If the wind dies suddenly, it’s about to pour. T/F

Prevailing PatternsMountains In a process called adiabatic cooling, air cools by 5.5°F for every 1,000 feet of elevation gained (if there’s no moisture). Add humidity, and the rate slows to 3.2°F per 1,000 vertical feet. This can create precipitation on a peak even if the plains below are dry. Also: Wind flows upslope during the day as the air heats up, then downslope in the cool evening. So the earlier you summit, the less windy and cloudy it likely will be. Still, widespread clouds or strong prevailing winds can neutralize mountain effects. Valleys Since cold air sinks, valleys are usually cooler than surrounding hillsides.Ocean, sea, or lake It takes a huge body of water to impact the weather significantly. Water changes temperature more slowly than land, so during the day, breezes blow inland as air flows from the colder water toward the warmer land. At night, gusts travel from the cool land toward the warmer water. Thick clouds cancel this effect because they prevent a significant temperature differential between the lake or sea and the land. So coastal wind on a cloudy day signals an approaching front and likely a storm. Glaciers and snowfields These create downslope breezes that travel about a third of a mile below them.Deserts One big weather danger here? Thermals: columns of rising air that occur over hot spots on land or water. Air rushes to fill the column’s low-pressure zone, spawning sandstorms with up to 75-mph winds. Thermal action builds during the day, making sandstorms more likely in the afternoon. They also interfere with electronic transmissions like cell phones and radio. Wear goggles, a windshell, and a bandanna over your mouth and nose; seek shelter.

Mountains

Ocean, Sea, or Lake



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HEALTH

Reader Shot of the Month Are the vivid colors in this photo of Lake Superior real? No, but they weren’t Photoshopped,

either. Shooter Amanda Allard, of Duluth, Minnesota, employed one of Ansel Adams’s favor-

ite tools: a tinted filter. Here’s how you can get a similar shot.

CHOOSE YOUR COLOR Tinted filters sit in front of the lens and block certain wavelengths of

light, resulting in a color shift in the final image. Ansel Adams often used yellow and red fil-

ters to darken blue skies. Here, Allard used a graduated orange filter (Gradual Fluo Orange

2; $23; cokin.fr) to create an apricot sky and leave the bottom of the photo unchanged.

PICK THE RIGHT FOCAL LENGTH For the moon to appear huge, you need a long focal length.

Anything less than 200mm and it’ll just be a little white dot. Allard zoomed all the way in

with a Canon EF 100-400mm lens on a Canon Rebel Xsi. Like most entry-level DLSRs, it

has a smaller sensor size than a 35mm camera—making the effective focal length about

600mm. So the moon hovered large while still leaving room for the horizon and shoreline.

USE A TRIPOD Allard used a somewhat slow shutter speed (1/50 second) to capture the

waves’ motion. You don’t always need a tripod for that speed, but with such a long focal

length, 1/50 is slow enough that you’ll get camera shake if you handhold it. Don’t forget the

other moving object: the moon. Shutter speeds slower than 1/30 second will blur it.

MEDICINEMANBUCK MAKES YOU RIGHT.

Air Head?Q: Somebody recently told me that climbing a Fourteener kills brain cells because of the low oxygen levels. Is this true?

Terry, Colorado Springs, CO

A: Medical researchers are pretty sure that exposure to altitudes above 15,000 feet causes

some brain-cell damage (such as lesions or atrophy), resulting in either short-term or long-

term loss of neurocognitive function. But the impact is small enough that most climbers don’t

notice a cognitive loss. Still, we don’t know if the damage raises dementia risk down the road.

As for whether any damage occurs in the brain below 15,000 feet, that is unknown,

so I can’t say anything definitive. But I doubt you need to worry about brain damage on

Fourteeners if you acclimatize properly (meaning not gaining more than about 1,500 to

2,000 feet per day until your body has adapted). A 2006 Spanish study (albeit on people

at 15,770 feet or higher) found that proper acclimatization reduces the brain-damage risk.

Buck Tilton is co-founder of the Wilderness Medicine Institute and author of Wilderness First Responder ($35, falcon.com), a guide to backcountry medical emergencies.

B A S E L A Y E R S > A C C E S S O R I E S > S O C K S

PaulRunner, mountain biker,

B+ biology student

NeNeNew NewNewNew Neew ZealZZZealZealZealZealZ and’and’and’and’nd’and’dn s Fis Fis Fis Fiss Fis FiF nestnestnestnestnestneste MerMerMer Mer Mere MerMe ino ino ino ino ino ino WoolWoolWoolWWWW

It’s why when the trail ends, you don’t have to.

Each of us has an internal odometer. For some, the numbers

barely move. For you, they click by… That’s why you layer up

in SmartWool. It keeps you warm and dry. And it keeps you

out on the trail, long after you’ve left it behind.

That’s the Power of Comfort.

Where will it lead you?F ind a dealer near you at smartwool.com

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//////

THE PREDICAMENT Lost in the Woods

Sign up for our free monthly newsletter featuring great hikes and activities, plus travel deals and expert tips for making the most of your park vacation. Go to www.NationalParkTrips.com.

NationalParkTrips.com

Dream it, plan it and live it with the best in

trip-planning tools, tips and resources:

• FREE trip-planning kits

• Insider advice on what to do, where to stay,

what to pack

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• Money-saving coupons

• And much, much more!

Your one-stop-shop for a vacation of a lifetime!

Five fantastic National Park sites offering the

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tips for planning your perfect park vacation.

To access all fi ve websites, go to

NationalParkTrips.com or check out one of

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Plan Your Ultimate

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• MyGrandCanyonPark.com

• MyRockyMountainPark.com

• MyYellowstonePark.com

• MyYosemitePark.com

• MyZionPark.com



SKILLS

RECIPES

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Half of a 10-ounce can of condensed cream

of celery soup

6 slices American cheese

¼ can of beer (our pick: a light ale)

1 tablespoon crushed red pepper

1 five-ounce can of Vienna sausages

1 five-ounce package of baby carrots

24 long, thick pretzel rods

AT HOME

Transfer soup to a spillproof container and

red pepper to a zip-top bag. Store pretzels in

a hard container.

IN CAMP

Combine soup with ½ cup water in a pot;

bring to a simmer over medium heat. Slice

cheese into half-inch squares and add to

soup, stirring until cheese is melted (about

four minutes). Mix in beer and pepper. Reduce

flame to low to keep cheese warm. Dunk dip-

pers in pot, or serve small cheese bowls.

1 eight-ounce package Gruyère cheese

(or a similar hard cheese such as Fontina,

Emmental, or Swiss)

1 tablespoon white flour

¾ cup dry white wine

1 clove garlic

1 tablespoon herbes de Provence

2 Granny Smith apples

1 small head of broccoli

3 dinner rolls

AT HOME

Grate cheese. Place cheese, flour, and

herbs in separate zip-top bags. Pour wine

into a spillproof, airtight container. Wash

apples and broccoli, and remove stems

from broccoli.

ON TRAIL

Chop garlic, slice apples, and cut rolls into

bite-size pieces; arrange morsels on bam-

boo skewers (or just use forks). Cook wine and garlic in a covered

pot over high heat for about three minutes, until simmering. Toss

cheese with the flour in a zip-top bag, then add to the wine mixture.

Turn heat to low and stir until cheese melts (about two minutes).

Mix in herbs, then dip your skewers, or serve small cheese bowls.

Add rich, cheesy flair to your backcountry fare.

Fonduedirtbag / gourmet

DIRTBAG

Beer and Pretzel DipGOURMET

Savory Gruyère Fondue

Minutes Hours

Prep time2 min

Cook time8 min

Price $2 per serving

Weight 8 ounces per

serving

Serves 2 to 3

Calories 1,018*

Fat 48 g

Carbs 104 g

Protein 40 g

*Nutrition info is per serving based on two servings.

Prep time4 min

Cook time10 min

Price $5 per serving

Weight 8 ounces per

serving

Serves 2 to 3

Calories 939*

Fat 41 g

Carbs 87 g

Protein 47 g

Beyond bread Get creative with your dippers. All kinds of fruits,

veggies, chips, crackers, or canned meats work. We like: dried

salami, sliced pears, cherry tomatoes, steak, and chili peppers.

Heat cleaning After you’ve finished eating, fill the cheese-

encrusted, tough-to-clean pot with biodegradable soap and

water, cover with a lid, and return to the stove. Heat until boiling,

remove from heat, and let sit for 10 minutes before scrubbing.

////// VIDEOS

DON’T FORGET DESSERTWant an easy, mess-free method for making divine chocolate fondue in the backcountry—without burning the chocolate on the pot? Learn how at backpacker.com/chocolatefondue.


Gear School

SHOP >> Size A snowshoe’s length and width determine the amount of flota-

tion. You want more flotation for more body weight and for deeper,

softer snow. The heavier you and your pack are, the wider and longer

your ’shoes should be. Narrower, shorter ones are best for dayhikes on

packed snow. (See chart above; if you spend most of your time in fresh

snow or on big-load treks, add your pack weight to your body weight.)

>> Frame Choose featherweight aluminum (more durable) or hard

plastic (less expensive). See above for shape information.

>> Decking The cover across the frame is typically made of hard plastic

or softer synthetics like neoprene. “The materials are so durable,” says

Carl Heilman, a snowshoe-design consultant for several manufactur-

ers. “They can take a beating. Wear and tear isn’t much of an issue.”

>> Crampons Most snowshoes have a claw-style crampon under the

foot platform. You want points angled in all directions for the best

grab. Some ’shoes also have frame crampons for steep and icy ter-

rain. Stainless steel works best for rocky conditions; for snow-only

hikes, aluminum is fine. You want the points long enough to grip the

surface, but not so long that they catch or trip you.

>> Bindings The straps or molding that wraps around your boots should

provide a secure and stable attachment. Bring the boots you snow-

shoe in to the store, and make sure the binding mechanism is easy to

operate and fits snugly around the tops of your feet and your heels.

>> Pivot point Situated under the ball of the foot, this lets your foot

move up and down naturally. With fixed rotation models, the ’shoe also

lifts up some with each step, making it easier to back up and step high,

but flipping up snow. With free rotation, the foot fully pivots, which

facilitates climbing and means you lift less weight with each step.

USE>> Striding Keep your feet a little wider apart than usual to avoid over-

lapping or colliding snowshoes. Use trekking poles to aid balance.

>> Ascending When hiking uphill in soft powder, kick your snowshoes

toe-first into the snow to create a step; in hard snow, rely on your

crampons—the binding’s pivot point will let you walk straight up mod-

erate slopes with your ankle in a comfortable position.

>> Descending Bend your knees so your weight shifts slightly backward,

and rely on your crampons for traction. In soft and hard snow, you

can walk down moderate slopes without traversing.

>> Traversing Jam the side of the snowshoe into the snow and lean into

the slope slightly. “Keep the ’shoe as level as possible,” Heilman says.

>> Bridging Never use the snowshoes to straddle a gap between rocks

or the limbs of a fallen tree; you risk snapping the snowshoe frames.

FIX Carry a multitool so you can tighten screws or make other repairs. Use

tent repair patches or duct tape to patch minor tears in the decking; if

it rips off the frame, use plastic zip ties or a hose clamp for a field fix.

SnowshoesGet out more this winter with the right pair of ’shoes.

Frame shape Oval designs increase flotation,

while diamond and hourglass shapes allow a

more natural stride, as they position your feet

closer together.

Crampons Sharp points

under the heel and toe

increase traction on hard-

pack snow and ice. Teeth

on the frame enhance

grip on uneven terrain, but

about 90 percent of the

traction comes from the

underfoot crampons.

-80 100

20- 22

25-26

30

35- 36

120 140 160 180 200 220 240 260 280 300+

body weight (lbs.)

sno

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OPTIMAL OKOK

OPTIMAL OKOK

OPTIMAL OKOK

OPTIMAL OKOK

PICK YOUR SIZE

Heel lifts Aka ascenders or climbing

bars, these hinged supports allow

an easier stride on steep slopes.


BASECAMP

For five months, we tested 50 bags, pads, and other snooze-related gear

to find perfect sleep systems for every season. By Kelly Bastone

Ultimate Backcountry Beds


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[FIELD TEST]

+All weights are for regular size (unless noted) on BACKPACKER scales.

[bag]

Rab Neutrino 400 Tempted by a two-pound bag, but don’t want to sacrifice comfort details? A superlight shell, 800-fill down,

and features like a full-length zipper (which allows maximum ventilation for summer use) help the 25°F

Neutrino achieve a rare double: outstanding warmth-to-weight and luxe comfort. During a spring hike in

Colorado’s Sarvis Creek Wilderness, at 10,000 feet, one tester stayed plenty warm—even her feet, without

socks—when a hard frost encrusted her tent and temps dipped into the 20s. Thanks to high-lofting down and

a Pertex Quantum shell, which is weather-resistant yet so light it doesn’t compress the feathers, the Neutrino

puffs up to nine inches thick at the chest. Insulation is enhanced by a comfortably efficient mummy cut (avail-

able in regular and women’s versions), plus a fat draft tube and adjustable collar that seal in heat. When our

cold-sleeping tester cinched the collar close to her neck, she could toss and turn without admit-

ting bursts of icy air. As befits a bag this light (and pricy), the Neutrino packs down to

soccer-ball size in the included compression sack. Downside? Hikers who

push the coldest edges of spring and fall will want a touch more

warmth. If that’s you, get another 10 degrees from MontBell’s UL

Spiral Down Hugger #1 (Editors’ Choice Award 2009; $299;

2 lbs.; 15°F; montbell.com). $310; 2 lbs.; 25°F; rab.uk.com

Reader service #101

BARGAIN WARMTH Don’t camp in sub-

freezing temps? The Eureka! Riner 40°F uses

inexpensive synthetic fill, yet it kept our

tester warm on a Minnesota hike with a low

of 33°F. And it’s compact for the price class

(about watermelon size). $90; 2 lbs. 8 oz.;

40°F; eurekatent.com Reader service #102

[pad]

NEMO Cosmo AirThis category-blurring pad is plus-size in every direction—it’s five inches wider and four inches

longer than standard, and has a whopping three inches of cushion. “The Cosmo is so thick it let

me camp in places I couldn’t have with a thinner pad,” said our tester after a night atop clumps

of desert scrub in Colorado National Monument. But even though it’s as deluxe as many car-

camping mattresses, it weighs well under two pounds—pair it with a light and compressible

bag, like the Rab, and you have an ultracomfortable, lightweight system. Horizontal air baffles

enhance performance by evenly distributing pressure points and eliminating the bouncy “pool

raft” feel that’s common among air-chamber pads. (Like other air-only models, it’s best for

temps above 30°F; campers who regularly see the 20s might want more insulation.) Despite

the Cosmo’s plumpness, inflating it is quick—about two minutes with the built-in foot pump.

Bonus: For over-the-top comfort when basecamping, slip on the Cosmo Pillowtop ($70, 2 lbs.

3 oz.), which adds an inch of soft, insulating foam. Bummer: Even without the Pillowtop, the

Cosmo is a tad bulky (about 13”x5” when rolled), so be prepared to strap it to the outside of

smaller packs. And that extra width could infringe on your partner’s pad space in a compact

tent. $90; 1 lb. 12 oz.; 25”x76”x3”; nemoequipment.com Reader service #103

LOW BULK It’s designated a women’s mat, but anyone under

5’8” can carry less with Pacific Outdoor’s Equipment’s Peak Oyl

Mtn Women’s Petite. Side-sleeping testers like the self-inflator

because zoned cushioning puts more padding under the hips.

Eco-bonus: It’s made with 100-percent recycled PET material.

$120; 1 lb. 6 oz.; 20”x66”x1.5”; pacoutdoor.com Reader service #104

(

; m

3

Three-Season SystemGet big comfort, low weight from a premium down bag and a super-cush pad.

TEST NUMBERS 109 bag nights; temps

from 0°F to 85°F; 0 sleepless nights

10.2010 BACKPACKER 55Testers: Kelly Bastone, Kari Bodnarchuk, Berne Broudy, Matthew Conroy, Ben Fullerton, Ken Haag, John Harlan, Kristin Hostetter, John Hovey, Tiffani Miller, Steve Pulford, Ben Russell, Geoff Ward

Sleep BetterGot the gear but still can’t get any rest? These 10 tips will improve your snooze.

>> Pack your iPod and some favorite mel-

low tunes. Music can help relax you after

an adrenaline-filled day.

>> Use earplugs to tune out snoring part-

ners and flapping tents.

>> Cover your eyes. Get a multipurpose

Buff (also use it as a headband, hat, gai-

ter, and more). Starts at $14 (buff.es).

>> Camp near white noise, like the steady,

soothing sound of a river or waterfall.

>> Hike farther. Exhaustion equals sleep.

>> Pack your pillowcase from home. The

familiarity can help you sleep better.

>> Match your bag and pad to your sleeping

style. Mummy shapes work best for back

sleepers; thrashers and side-curlers will

want a roomier bag and wider pad.

>> Go to bed warm. Do a few situps or

pushups before getting in the sack.

>> Avoid caffeine and alcohol before bed, and

drink water instead to stay hydrated.

>> Stick to routine. Go to sleep at your

normal bedtime hour.

Winter Warmth Stay toasty in the deepest freeze with an overstuffed bag and cold-weather pad.

[bag]

Sierra Designs BTU -20 It could have been a gear-tester horror story—an open-air bivy, between snowdrifts, on a 0°F night in New Hampshire’s White Mountains.

But this Arctic-worthy 800-fill down mummy kept our tester off the evening news. “I was warm and comfortable all night, even though the

clothes I slept in were sweat-soaked from the day’s hike,” our guinea pig reports. “I usually have trouble keeping my feet warm in winter, but the

microfleece-lined footbox eliminated that problem.” When he awoke, the bag’s exterior was caked in ice, but it dried after 20 minutes in the sun.

The extra warmth and superior weatherproofing, thanks to a Drizone waterproof/breathable shell, make this -20°F bag worth the money and

weight for hikers who camp in deep-winter conditions: It’s like an insurance policy against bad weather. The cut is efficiently trim, reports our

thin, 165-pound tester, but not confining, and the weight-shaving, jacket-style hood fits closely—

big guys and restless sleepers should try it in the store. The BTU packs down small compared to

similarly warm winter bags (9”x19”) in the included compression sack, and for the weight, few

bags deliver more warmth. $529; 4 lbs. 2 oz.; -20°F; sierradesigns.com Reader service #105

LIGHTER If you don’t camp in temps below 0°F, and don’t need a waterproof shell, get

the Mountain Hardwear Phantom 0°. A thread count exceeding 400 per inch makes the 800-

fill down bag luxuriously silky, and testers loved the superfat draft collar. (“Warm as a mink

stole,” says one). $475; 2 lbs. 10 oz.; 0°F; mountainhardwear.com Reader service #106

[bag]

[pad]

Big Agnes Dual CoreUnlike most winter-rated pads, this insulated air mattress is warm

and supremely packable (just half-gallon size when rolled in its

sack). It pairs air chambers with a sandwich of high-density foam

and PrimaLoft Eco synthetic insulation, making it true to its 0°F

rating. During a spring trip in Colorado’s Williams Fork Mountains,

testers never felt the icy rocks under them, even when they slept on

their sides (which often means that hips bottom out against the cold

ground). Plus, the pad’s 2.5 inches of cushion smoothed out lumpy

snow and felt decadently plush. Nitpick: It takes big lungs (and about

five minutes) to inflate this raft. Below 0°F, supplement the Dual

Core with a closed-cell foam pad for extra insulation. $100; 2 lbs. 6 oz.;

20”x72”x2.5”; bigagnes.com Reader service #107

PORTABLE HEAT Take the Klean Kanteen Classic to bed. Filled with

hot water and stuffed into a sock or the company’s Built Insulated

Tote ($12, pictured)—either will keep the metal from burning your

skin—this 27-ouncer delivers heater-warmth all night. And the

stainless steel releases no chemicals when exposed to heat (unlike

some plastics). $20; 7 oz.; kleankanteen.com Reader service #108

///// /WEB EXTRA

SLEEP SECRETSNo one knows all-conditions snoozing like explorers who spend more than 200 nights a year outdoors. Learn from the pros at backpacker.com/sleepbetter.



Basecamp LuxuryGet all the comforts of home with this fo ur-star setup.

[bag]

Mountain Hardwear Pinole 20°This affordable mummy is generously shaped for stretch-and-sprawl

comfort, and the interior fabric (50-denier polyester taffeta) feels

sumptuously soft. The included stuffsack is even lined with micro-

fleece, so you can turn it inside-out, stuff it with a jacket, and use it as

a pillow. Our 5’11”, 205-pound tester praised the spacious cut, which

gave him ample room through his hips and shoulders. Even the foot-

box is big. The synthetic Thermic MX insulation combines solid fibers

(for loft and softness) with hollow ones (which trap heat in tiny air

spaces). Warmth proved sufficient for most sleepers, but one cold-

sleeping tester wished for a draft collar on a subfreezing night along

Maine’s Kennebec River (in chilly conditions you can rig one by wrap-

ping a jacket around your neck and shoulders). Bonus: The Pinole

compresses enough (think medium watermelon) to use on short-

mileage backpacking trips when pack space is not an issue. $80; 3 lbs.

4 oz.; 20°F; mountainhardwear.com Reader service #109

DOUBLE UP Separate is not equal when you want to snuggle with

your sweetie. The two-person Big Agnes Cabin Creek kept our couple

warm down to 20°F in New Mexico’s Jemez Mountains, and the

separate hoods and draft collars let them each customize venting.

$240; 5 lbs. 8 oz.; 15°F; bigagnes.com Reader service #110

[pad]

Therm-a-Rest DreamTime Full disclosure: This mattress is not light,

cheap, or packable. But if you do a lot of car

camping, you won’t care. “It’s honestly like

sleeping on my bed at home,” says our gear

editor after using the oversize DreamTime

for two years all over New England. It pairs

a 2.5-inch-thick, self-inflating air mattress

with a one-inch layer of memory foam that’s

wrapped in a removable (and machine-

washable) microfiber cover. The fabric feels

oh-so-soft against skin, and the air/foam

combo delivers the ultimate in springy, cushy

comfort. The mattress needs a few breaths

to bring it to full

loft—but it still

required far less

effort than any

other comfort

pad we tested. It

also packs eas-

ily: Just roll and

secure with the

attached buckles.

Bonus: Big guys

will love the extra

length and width.

$190; 6 lbs. 11 oz.;

25”x75”x3.5”;

cascadedesigns

.com Reader

service #111

[pillow]

NEMO FilloThe clincher on

total basecamp

comfort? A real pil-

low. You could bring

one from home,

but this inflatable

model is compress-

ible enough for

backpacking (about

bike-bottle size),

and is so deluxe

you might just start

using it at home.

Baffles reduce any

trampoline effect on

its three-inch-thick

air chamber, and

microfiber-covered

memory foam deliv-

ers luxury softness.

Bonus: Elastic cords

on the bottom let

you stuff jackets

underneath, elevat-

ing the Fillo for side-

sleepers. $40; 11 oz.;

nemoequipment.com

Reader service #112s

[bag]

Deuter Dream Lite 500Everything about this bag is scant: its weight, packed size, and price.

Even without a compression sack, this 40°F mummy squishes down

smaller than a one-liter water bottle, so it disappears inside a pack.

It’s stuffed with Polydown, a short-staple polyester fiber. (Short-staple

insulation has filaments that are cut into small pieces to make it more

compressible.) For one cold-sleeping tester, the thin blanket of insulation

proved sufficient for summer nights down to 50°F in the high desert of

Colorado National Monument. A cinchable hood and zipper draft guard

boost warmth when temps dip into the 40s. When the mercury rose, the

full-length zipper offered head-to-toe venting. Our broad-shouldered,

5’11” tester found the bag’s dimensions to be “trim but comfortable.” The

Dream Lite also proved useful for winter hut-tripping, when it kept testers

warm in drafty, wood-heated yurts and cabins. Downside: The insulation

and fabric (nylon tactel taffeta for the lining, and water-resistant ripstop

nylon for the shell) delivered below-average breathability when humidity

was high: Testers felt clammy unless the bag was unzipped at least par-

tially. $79; 1 lb. 2 oz.; 40°F; deuterusa.com Reader service #113

LIGHTER For extremely warm temps (around 70°F and above), skip the bag and go with

a liner like Sea to Summit’s Reactor Thermolite. It’s made of stretchy Thermolite that breathes

and wicks well, and can also be used to add more insulation to a winter system (about

10°F, says our tester). $55; 9 oz.; seatosummit.com Reader service #114

Ultralight BargainFor warm summer nights, this two-pound system delivers sweet dreams for just $138.

[pad]

Exped SIM Lite 2.5 Short In summer, why carry a full-length mat

when the insulation is superfluous and you

really only need cushion from head to hips?

This one-inch-thick shortie packs down to

cantaloupe-size, and air channels in the

perforated foam deliver a surprising amount

of cushion, given its trim weight. “It turned a

rocky meadow into a tolerable bed,” reported

our tester after using it in Colorado’s Hunter-

Fryingpan Wilderness. The brushed polyester

fabric kept testers from sliding off. Warm

sleepers might push it to shoulder-season

use (put your empty pack underfoot), but

the SIM Lite is primarily a summer-only pad,

as the weight-saving holes in the foam limit

insulation. Want more length and warmth?

Go with Therm-a-Rest’s Neo Air (Editors’

Choice Award 2009; starting at $120; 13

oz.; thermarest.com) $59; 15 oz.; 20”x47”x1”;

exped.com Reader service #115

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GEAR

+ //////

FIELD TEST

Explore new terrain. Escape the everyday. Defy convention without

turning your back on tradition. Because with the cotton twill

Salt Creek Shirt and the right companion, you’re free to travel

wherever the trail takes you.

} The Salt Creek Shirt: Timeless style. Familiar comfort. | woolrich.com

Follow label directions.

Live it out.


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GEAR

REVIEWS


NEMO Espri 3P It was pouring when we arrived at camp in Hanging Rock State

Park, but the ball-and-socket pole connectors and intuitive

configuration made for such a quick first-time setup that the inte-

rior stayed bone dry. The best part? Three vestibule options range

from ultralight (read: no vestibule) to standard

(15 square feet, included), to a 24-square-foot

whopper (add $125) that pitches with a trek-

king pole and nearly doubles sheltered space.

Complaints: The 38-square-foot floor is a squeeze

for three, and when open, the door lies on the

floor. nemoequipment.com Reader service #118

Three-season

backpacking

in the foulest

weather

> Peter Rives

> Duration April-July

> Locales/conditions TN,

NC; 40°F-80°F, rain

> “We stayed perfectly

dry in a deluge, thanks to

plentiful guy-out points

that kept the fly taut and

the tent well-ventilated

through the mostly

mesh canopy.”

Arc’teryx Miura 50

As a mountain guide who schleps heavy gear day in and day out, I’m

brutally tough on packs. But the Miura is brutally tough right back.

I bushwhacked through thickets, scrambled up gullies, clawed up

narrows, and this pack—made of 630-denier “Superpack” nylon and

rubbery Hypalon trim—never flinched. The roll-top

closure opens wide to accept an entire climb-

ing rack. The Miura is heavy for the capacity, but

in exchange you get that durability and support

that easily handles 40-pound loads. Gripe: The

padded back panel could ventilate better—it gets

sweaty. arcteryx.com Reader service #119

Craggers,

climbers, and

hikers who

favor punishing

approaches

and off-trail

trekking

> Matt Conroy

> Duration Feb. to June

> Locales/conditions VT,

NH; rain, sun, 43°F-85°F

> “Though not

technically waterproof,

the heavy-duty nylon

resists precipitation and

kept my cell phone and

guidebook dry through

hours of rain.”

> $225

> 4 lbs. 12 oz. (reg.)

> 50 liters/3059

cu. in.

> short, reg., tall

+

The North Face Syncline GTX

Talk about mixed conditions: Over the course of 14 hours and 6,500

feet of vertical gain on Hvannadalshnúkur, Iceland’s highest peak, I

dealt with crumbling volcanic rock that shifted underfoot, loose gravel,

slushy snow, glaciated hardpack, and mist so thick it settled like rain.

This high-cut, Gore-tex-lined boot barreled through it all without giv-

ing me so much as a hot spot or a drip of internal

condensation. The nylon mesh upper with nubuck

reinforcements is light but tough, and offered ample

ankle support for up to 30-pound loads on the

uneven terrain. The Vibram tread gripped securely on

slush, mud, and hardpack. Ideal for medium- to nar-

row-width feet. thenorthface.com Reader service #116

> Anthony Cerretani

> Duration May to July

> Locales/conditions CO,

Iceland; rain, snow, ice;

rocky, muddy trail

> “The high, gusseted

tongue kept water,

stones, pebbles, and

debris from sneaking

in, even when I was

scrambling down steep

scree slopes.”

PRODUCT VERDICT BEST FOR TESTER DATA

FIELD NOTES THE LATEST WORD

FROM OUR TESTERS

Hikers looking

for a water-

proof boot

with comfort

for dayhikes

and support

for weekends

Skiers, snow-

boarders,

snowshoers,

and cool-

weather hikers

Three-in-one jacket systems are usually bulky and ill-fitting, but this

breaks the mold. The 700-fill inner jacket is lined with Omni-Heat, a

silver layer that reflects body heat and boosted my warmth in single-

digit temps on Mt. Washington. The puffy mates with a waterproof/

breathable, seam-sealed nylon shell, and pit

zips on both pieces line up perfectly when worn

together. A microfleece liner in the shell adds

weight, but made it comfy (not clammy) when I

wore the jacket over a tank top on a spring trip in

Idaho. columbia.com Reader service #117

> Berne Broudy

(plus: Jane Melrose)

> Duration Dec. to April

> Locales/conditions VT, NY,

PA, CA, Spain; 5°F-60°F,

wind, rain, sleet, snow, sun

> “The long cut in back

repelled kicked-up snow

when I snowshoed.”

> $280

> 2 lbs. 5 oz. (w’s M)

> men’s S-XXL;

women’s XS-XL

Costa Fathom with 580P lens

Want to see the world in high-def? Put these glasses on. Costa’s 580

lens technology, available now for the first time in impact-resistant

polycarbonate, screens out yellow light (580 nanometers on the light

spectrum), which is harder for the eye to process than red, blue, and

green. The result is razor-sharp color and definition. The polarized

gray lens proved versatile for changing light while I was hiking, biking,

and paddling. Side vents prevented fogging on

sweaty trail runs, and a hydrophobic coating

kept the lenses free of water streaks when I was

bouncing down rapids on California’s Trinity River.

costadelmar.com Reader service #120

Anyone who

wants eye

protection with

superior clarity

> Dennis Lewon

> Duration June-July

> Locales/conditions CA,

CO, WY; bright sun, rivers,

dappled forest cover

> $159

> 1 oz.

> $150

> 2lbs. 14 oz.

(m’s 12)

> men’s 8-14;

women’s 6-11

> $370

> 3 lbs. 13 oz. (no

vesti); 4 lbs. 4 oz.

(med. vesti); 5 lbs.

11 oz. (large vesti)

///// /WEB EXTRA

MORE REVIEWS!Every week, our field testers post exclusive new reviews online—check for this week’s products, plus searchable archives at backpacker.com/gear.

Columbia Carabineer II /Frosty Forest Parka

SEVENTYONE years ago, in the fallof 1939, the eyes of an adventurousAmerican nation turned south.

To Antarctica.

With a World War looming on thehorizon, President Franklin Rooseveltcalled on expertise ofAdmiral RichardByrd, tasking the legendary polarexplorer with a return to the frozenlandscape of Antarctica.

It was to be Byrd’s third trip to theremote region – but his first with theofficial backing of the USGovernment. Bringing 125 men, twoice-breaking ships, three airplanes anda monstrous 60-foot all-terrainvehicle, the dynamic affair caught andheld the nation’s attention.

Byrd’s expedition was supported by akey collection of the nation’s topprivate companies, individuallyselected to support specific needs. Forthe critical choice of winter apparel,trip suppliers turned to Woolrich, the“Original Outdoor ClothingCompany,” requesting and receivingclose to 1,300 all-wool wintergarments.

The Woolrich woolen gear wasessential, needed to protect Byrd andhis men against the cold blasts, snow,ice and temperatures as low as 60degrees below zero. The woolen gearwas a proven success as well, asmembers of the expeditionary forcehad worn the apparel before andknew that it would stand up tothe challenge.

The list of items provided byWoolrich to the expeditionincluded heavy woolshirts, reinforced pants,special red and black huntingbreeches, heavy 32-ounce wool pants,

and special virgin wool huntingcoats.

No heavier than regular Woolrichwinter wear, the only modificationsmade to the apparel were the additionof longer sleeves, caps and hoods toprotect the hands and faces againstthe extreme Antarctic weather.

Geared head to foot in Woolrichwoolen apparel, Byrd and his menspent the winter of 1940 inAntarcticain three camps, conducting numerousscientific obervations and mappingthe curious coastline.

Wool’s presence on the Byrdexpedition wasn’t the first time thefabric had supported adventure, norwas it the last. For while the longhistory of wool dates back thousandsof years, it’s direct contribution tomodern adventure has included apresence on the pioneering climbs ofMt. Everest and the Seven Summits,on first whitewater descentsthroughout the world, and on the 20thcentury’s major backpackingexplorations.

A DV E R T O R I A L

American-madewool for Americanoutdoor adventures

For nearly two centuries,

Woolrich has been synonymous

with outdoor adventure.

Beginning by supplying the

lumber camps of central

Pennsylvania by horseback

with woolen fabrics, socks and

coverlets, Woolrich opened

their own woolen mill in 1845.

Still in active operation, the

mill in Woolrich, Pennsylvania

blends the finest modern

techniques with a heritage of

performance to create high

quality clothing of remarkable

comfort and style.

Computer-controlled worksta-

tions, automated cutting

systems and a global presence

from Manhattan to Paris mark

the modern Woolrich, which

continues to celebrate its

heritage by keeping its

headquarters in the little

Pennsylvania village where the

company got its start.

That same mix of proven

products and non-stop innova-

tion are inherent in Woolrich

clothing, where legendary

products like the Buffalo Check

shirt and Railroad vest meet

cutting edge for play, adventure

and work.

Leading the way in how we

enjoy and benefit from the

wonders of wool, for 180 years

Woolrich has been what

America wears outdoors.

+

Woolrich Adventures:Admiral Byrd Returns to Antarctica


killer hikeWhen a lifelong backpacker decides to shoot a deer, will he

lose touch with the wilderness he loves—or get closer to it?

By Bruce Barcott • Photography by Paolo Marchesi




The thought runs through my head as I walk across a

stubbled wheat field on a freezing October morning in

eastern Washington. I’m in the Palouse, a land of gently

rolling bluffs and prairies. The land here unfolds in sensuous

dips and swirls, like the topography of a bell pepper. In

farming circles, the topsoil under my boots is legendary. A

good man with a tractor can grow 75 bushels of wheat an

acre, twice what the dirt yields in Kansas. Nobody’s plowing

or harvesting at the moment, though. It’s opening day of deer

season. Every farmer in the county—or so it seems—is duded

up in a blaze-orange vest, rifle in hand, looking to bag a buck.

I’m here on the same mission. I’m wearing the orange

vest, the camo cap, and the two-day growth on my chin.

I’m toting a Ruger .270, and in my pocket is a permission

slip from the state of Washington that allows me to fire it at

properly antlered ungulates. I am, for this day at least, and

for the first time in my life, a hunter.

“We’ll check out this dry creekbed,” Jennifer says,

whispering just loud enough to be heard over the sound

of our boots crackling the wheat remnants. “But stay low

on the hill. Be careful not to skyline.” Skyline, a verb: To

allow one’s silhouette to appear over the crown of a ridge,

spooking potential game.

Jennifer Brenner is my mentor. She’s a farm girl raised

nearby, and a hunter since she could walk. Brenner, 42, is

one part naturalist, one part park ranger (her day job), and

two parts Gretchen Wilson. Deer hunting at dawn? Hell yeah!

Nothing flushes from the creek, so we raise our binoculars

and glass the hillside across the valley. “I see three over by

the eyebrow,” says Brenner. “They’re bucks.”

Eyebrow? I have no idea what she’s talking about. I scan

until I see something vaguely deerlike. “By the clump of

trees?” I ask.

There’s an uncomfortable pause.

“No,” she says. “Those are our horses.”

We keep walking. Brenner asks, cautiously, “Your rifle’s

unloaded, right?”

I open the bolt. “Right.”

We head up a little rise and spot more deer. Six muleys,

three bucks of legal size. Ever so slowly, I ease the rifle bolt

forward and raise the scope to eye level. Brenner, looking

at the deer through her binoculars, whispers the go-ahead.

They’re legal. Through the crosshairs, I can see a clear shot.

I can also see my point of decision: To take a life or let it go.

I’ve been walking with a deadly explosive. Now I’m

aiming it.

We live in a world too cleanly divided. We are red states or blue states, urban or rural, creamy or crunchy.

The outdoor world suffers miserably from this binary split.

We are hikers or hunters, two cultures divided by a chasm

of ignorance and mistrust. We wear Patagonia R2 fleece

or Mossy Oak Break-Up camouflage. Our seasons have

different names: One person’s duck season is another’s ski

season. The catalogs in our mailbox define us: Cabela’s

or REI. Six years ago, the rift was distilled in two political

bumper stickers. Sportsmen for Bush. Climbers for Kerry.

I’m troubled by this great divide. As a member of REI

Nation, I’ve been a backpacker, a car camper, and a bird-

watcher. I’ve thrown bait and flies at Alaskan salmon and

Rocky Mountain trout. I’ve climbed Cascade volcanoes,

paddled Sierra rivers, and I’m a skier of catholic taste. But

I’ve never been hunting.

I find that a little strange. Hunting is, after all, the original

outdoor activity. But what’s more puzzling is the fact that

nobody’s ever asked me to go hunting—or wanted to know

if I’ve ever been. I’m so deeply smothered by the fleecy

bosom of my demographic that the notion never arises. In this

polarized world of us and them, hunting is something they do.

And who are they? If you believe Hollywood type casting,

they’re beer-guzzling good old boys. They’re Toby Keith

in a trucker cap. They love wildlife they can kill, but don’t

have much use for the rest of nature. They run generators

in campgrounds and drive F-250s with NRA stickers in the

window. Not our kind, dear.

At least that’s the way I used to think. And then, little by

little, my assumptions changed. As an outdoor writer, my job

often requires me to drop into backcountry terrain where I’m

a stranger to the land. Years ago, I discovered that sportsmen

offer an excellent perspective on the local wild. I’ll find the

best hunter in the county and spend an afternoon with him,

without weapons, crashing through the forest. A hunter’s

eyes, ears, and nose are tuned differently than a hiker’s. He

sees things that are invisible to those of us trained to follow

signs and stay on trails.

I’ve also learned that there are plenty of hunters who are

hikers, and vice versa—among them, readers of this magazine.

For them—and maybe that includes you—the notion of a

divide would be a mystery, perhaps even an insult.

Still, every statistic indicates that crossovers are a distinct

minority. Among most backpackers, and among most

hunters, the culture divide grows wider. In a hiking club,

the word “hunting” can suck all the air out of the room. It’s

become a conversational taboo.

Hunting is the act of hiking with a bomb in your hands.

Any issue that volatile is worth investigating. So I decided

to meet the hunters, explore their world, and attempt the

pursuit myself. I wanted to bridge the gap with a gun.

I figured I’d need a partner, so I called my friend Mike

“Gator” Gauthier, who was then the head climbing ranger

at Mt. Rainier National Park. (He’s since been promoted to

Interior Department headquarters in Washington, D.C.) I

explained the project.

“So…we’d actually go hunting,” he said. “Not just hang out

and watch some hunters?”

Yes.

“I’m in,” he said. “How do we do it?”

“I have no idea,” I told him. “Maybe we should find a

hunter we can go with.” That’s when we realized that, well,

we didn’t know any hunters.

Hikers or not, our lack of gun-toting acquaintances wasn’t surprising. Hunting in America is a dying pastime.

In my home state of Washington, nearly one in three

hunters has hung up his rifle in the past decade. It’s

happening everywhere. Hunting permits are down 20 percent

in West Virginia over the past 10 years. According to the U.S.

Fish & Wildlife Service, the number of Americans who hunt

has fallen 25 percent since 1980, to less than 13 million.

Hunting’s decline isn’t due to lack of game. Whitetail deer

are overpopulated in 73 percent of their range. A century

ago, only 50,000 elk roamed the continent. Today, the

combined North American herds total one million strong.

The biggest culprit is land development. Specifically,

the loss of private farmland, where much of the country’s

hunting has traditionally occurred. According to the National

Farmland Trust, two acres of prime American farmland are

lost every minute. If hunting were hiking, that would be like

losing one Grand Canyon National Park each year.

Hunting’s decline can’t all be blamed on the loss of open

space, though. Powerful cultural forces have also been at

work. Hunting is commonly passed down from fathers to

sons and daughters. But over the past two generations, the

hunting gene has withered on the vine.

I saw it happen in my own family. My grandfather was a

duck hunter. When my father was young, Grandpa Barcott

took him out for predawn shotgunning parties. “We went out

with dad’s buddies, and they had a great time—cooking up

steaks, hash browns, the whole deal,” Dad told me. “But by

the time I got good enough with the shotgun to shoot ’em on

the fly, in my early 20s, I found that I just didn’t want to do it.”

“Why not?” I asked.

“The ducks,” Dad said. “They were just too beautiful.”

Sooner or later, every hunter comes face to face with the

same issue. To hunt is to kill a living creature. And we’re not

talking about squashing a mosquito. In the early stages of

my hunting interest, I browsed the rifle section of a Dick’s

Sporting Goods store. My six-year-old son was with me.

“Why do you want a gun, Dad?” he asked.

“I’m thinking about maybe going deer hunting,” I said.

He thought about that for a minute.

“Why do you want to shoot a deer?” he asked.

My answer was so half-hearted and halting that a passerby

overhearing the conversation would have been embarrassed

for me. Clearly, I had some philosophical work to do.

I went to the experts for perspective.

I put the question to Bruce Friedrich, vice president of

People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (PETA), and Ted

Nugent, guitar hero and prolific hunter: Should we hunt?

Friedrich treated the phrase “ethical hunting” as an

LIVING LANDSCAPE: “I FEEL LIKE I’VE BEEN GIVEN A FRESH PAIR OF EYES,” SAYS THE AUTHOR (ABOVE, IN BALLCAP), AFTER TRACKING DEER IN THE SNAKE RIVER BLUFFS (RIGHT) AND ON FARMLAND IN EASTERN WASHINGTON (PREVIOUS SPREAD).



oxymoron. “There’s no ethical difference between shooting

a deer and shooting a cat or a dog,” he told me. “The deer

has the same intelligence and range of emotions, the same

capacity to feel pain.”

But don’t hunters help keep the deer population in check?

“Some people just enjoy shooting defenseless animals, and

that’s one way they justify it,” he said. “Future generations

will look back on our shooting animals with the sort of moral

incredulity that we reserve for past abuses of human beings.”

When did hunting cease to be morally justified?

He thought for a second. “It could

have been phased out 10,000 years ago,

with the development of agriculture.”

Ted Nugent begged to differ. “Don’t

let the lunatic fringe keep you from

hunting,” he said. (Actually he emailed

me between hunts. The Nuge is a very

busy beast slayer.)

Nugent, of course, is the 1970s

rock star who reinvented himself as

America’s foremost hunter. Nugent

views animal rights advocates like

Bruce Friedrich as nutjobs divorced

from the natural cycle of life.

“Do we really need to shoot wild animals when there’s

a Safeway down the street?” I asked The Nuge. “Is this just

murder as sport?”

“That’s like saying recorded music is available, so none

of us needs to make our own,” he said. “Vegetables are on

store shelves, so we don’t need to tend gardens. I’m sure we

could find someone else to breed our wives for us, too. Not

me. I have nothing to do with the mass assembly of food.

I hunt, kill, butcher, and cook my own, knowing that it’s

the healthiest, most natural nutrition available to mankind—

while at the same time bringing balance to the environment.

Remaining connected to the good Mother Earth is a driving

force in all the hunters, fishermen, and trappers that I know.”

“Hunting,” Nugent assured me, “will cleanse your soul.”

As much as my soul could use a scrub, I didn’t put a lot

of faith in the Motor City Madman’s method. I doubted that

any epiphanies would come attached to a smoking gun. At

the same time, I found myself falling closer to Nugent than

to the guy from PETA. I’m an enthusiastic carnivore. Over the

past 40 years, dozens of cows, pigs, and chickens have been

slaughtered on my behalf—butchered out of sight and out of

mind. Like a lot of Americans these days, I’m trying to live

closer to my food. I’m eating backyard vegetables and buying

eggs from my neighbors. I decided it was time I met my meat.

Ironically, explaining my desire to kill a deer to a six-year-old was the most challenging aspect of preparing for

a hunt. Everything else fell into place in short order. In August,

Gator found us a hunter. “Her name’s Jennifer Brenner,” he

told me. “She’s the girlfriend of my friend Shaun Bristol.

They’re both state park rangers over in eastern Washington.”

And acquiring a weapon was surprisingly easy. I strolled

into a local gun shop, picked out a used bolt-action Ruger, and

laid down my Visa card. The sale was delayed for 10 minutes

while the salesman carried out a background check to make

sure I wasn’t certifiably insane, or an ex-con, or both.

The real problem was where to store it. “Go hunting, by

all means,” said the wife. “Just don’t bring the gun anywhere

near the house. Ever.”

Gator offered a solution. He had

secure storage and no kids. I became

a rifle divorcee. Gator got custody. I got

visitation rights.

I called Jennifer to discuss what we’d

hunt. Hunting elk seemed an overreach

for a rookie. I hadn’t earned an elk

hunt. Moreover, I’d moved among elk

in the mountains. They are majestic

creatures. I doubted I could pull the

trigger on one. Deer, on the other hand,

are common as squirrels. They’re tick

spreaders, garden killers, poop-pellet

producers. Therefore, deer.

“Have you handled a rifle before?” she asked.

Nope.

She told me to take a hunter-safety course. “If you’re going

hunting with me, we’re going to do it the right way.”

If you’ve ever suffered through the mind-screwing tedium of childbirth classes, you have a fair idea of the

hunter-safety course. It’s childbirth class with bullets.

On a Monday evening in September, I slipped in the

back door of the Bainbridge Island Sportsmen’s Club and

claimed one of the few empty seats. The Sportsmen’s Club

was straight out of “The Red Green Show”: knotty pine

paneling, a moose head above the fireplace, and a sign that

read “Absolutely No Drinking While Shooting Is In Progress.”

If hunting is in decline, you wouldn’t have guessed it by

the turnout. The place was packed.

“Welcome to Hunter Safety,” said Jim Walkowski. A

grandfatherly man in an orange vest and green ballcap,

Walkowski is an ex-cop and Navy survival instructor who’d

taught this class for 35 years. “Hunting is a privilege,” he told

us, “and safety is our number one priority.”

Safety, it turns out, is a relative thing. Walkowski assured

us that hunting was safer than playing football or driving a

car. “Of the 25 most popular activities in the United States,”

he told us, “hunting is the 13th safest.”

I looked it up. According to the International Hunter

Education Association, a group that promotes hunter-safety

courses in the U.S. and Canada, there were 241 fatal hunting

accidents from 2005 through 2009. The U.S. Fish and Wildlife

“There’s no

ethical difference

between shooting

a deer and

shooting a cat

or a dog,” said

Friedrich.

STILL LIFE: THE AUTHOR

APPROACHES THE THREE-POINT

BUCK HE SHOT SECONDS EARLIER.



Service estimates that about 12.5 million Americans hunt

every year. That works out to a risk rate of about 0.38 fatalities

per 100,000 hunters annually. Comparing the risk rates of

different sports is a tricky and often suspect proposition—

there are a lot of apples-to-oranges problems—but based

purely on fatalities per participant, hunting appears safer

than, say, swimming (6.57 drownings per 100,000 swimmers)

and bicycling (1.87 fatalities per 100,000 cyclists), but not,

technically, football (0.2 per 100,000).

And yet over the five-day course, Walkowski and his

fellow instructors rattled off an endless string of hunting-

accident anecdotes. One guy’s friend got shot climbing

over a fence. A husband and wife picked up their rifles

after lunch. “Boom!” said Walkowski. “Killed their partners.”

One evening, Walkowski pointed to his rifle and said, “That

.30-30 right there, my brother-in-law killed his brother with

it. Drinking. So there you go.”

Holy crap! There you go what?

I stepped outside and rethought the whole proposition. It

occurred to me that there might be a scared-straight method

to Walkowski’s madness. “Maybe it’s like reading Accidents

in North American Mountaineering to climbing students,” I

told my wife. “Gets them to pay attention.”

Night after night, I returned to the Sportsmen’s Club

to receive hot cups of Walkowski’s wisdom. In fairness, I

learned quite a lot. Stuff like: Aim for a deer’s lungs, not its

head. It’s illegal in Washington to have a loaded rifle in a

vehicle. If you get some dirt in the muzzle, a fired shot could

split the barrel like a banana peel.

Walkowski and his fellow Club members were friendly,

generous men. One of them, a former Army sniper, gave

up an afternoon to let me shoot his rifles on the range.

(I practiced with my own as well.) And yet, as I slipped

my Subaru between massive pickups in the parking lot, I

couldn’t help but feel like a blue spy in the house of red.

That’s worth considering. One of the sources of the hiker-

hunter rift can be found in the post-Vietnam shift in military

culture. Prior to the 1970s, military service was an experience

common to the American man. (A draft will do that.) Basic

training acquainted a wide spectrum of society—conservative

and liberal, rich and poor—with firearms. Nowadays, that

doesn’t happen. Today’s soldiers and sailors are self-selected,

and they tend to be a politically conservative demographic.

Distrust of the military, driven by misadventures like Vietnam

and Iraq, and years of urban violence and mass murders like

Columbine and Virginia Tech have made a hostility toward

guns part of the liberal package deal. Almost all of my liberal

friends consider themselves environmentalists. Almost none

own a gun. If you’re not comfortable around firearms, you

aren’t likely to become a hunter.

The irony, of course, is that hunters founded the modern

conservation movement. Theodore Roosevelt, Gifford Pinchot,

Aldo Leopold, and Stewart Udall all hunted. (Though John

Muir and Rachel Carson did not.) In the 1930s, conservation-

minded hunters crafted the Pittman-Robertson Act, which

established some of the nation’s first habitat-restoration

programs using gun and ammunition excise taxes. Last year,

$300 million in gun and ammo tax went to conservation

programs—and that’s to say nothing of the more than $1

billion collected in hunting and fishing permit fees.

The big rift opened in the late 1970s. Conservative leaders

realized they could use gun control as a wedge issue to turn

rural, conservation-minded voters against urban enviros. Many

liberal leaders categorically embraced the era’s animal rights

movement, which painted hunters as cold-blooded murderers.

The hard feelings still linger. A couple of years ago, I

praised a local wilderness group for reaching out to hunting

and fishing groups. The director of the group thanked me

for the kudos, but admitted that the great reach-out wasn’t

a huge success. “We lost members over that one,” she said.

HARVEST: JENNIFER BRENNER (ABOVE, RIGHT) SHOWS THE AUTHOR (IN RED CHECKED SHIRT, ABOVE, AND AT LEFT) HOW TO DRESS A DEER ; HIDE, BONES, AND BLOOD ACCOUNT FOR NEARLY A THIRD OF A MATURE BUCK’S WEIGHT.


Opening day broke cold and clear. On the first Saturday in October, I rose in the predawn darkness and

pulled on two shirts, a thick hoodie, a down vest, a fleece

jacket, a Gore-Tex shell, and a bright orange vest. With all

of that padding, I felt I could stop a bullet myself. But I

needed it. Outside, it was 31°F, a light dusting of frost on the

ground. In the rolling hills above the Snake River, hundreds

of hunters fueled up on coffee.

Plan your hunt, hunt your plan. Those were Jim Walkowski’s

words. Our plan was to hunt three types of terrain over three

days: wheat fields, river bluffs, and mountain forest.

Unfortunately, Gator was delayed. “Duty calls,” he told us

from his office at Mt. Rainier. “We’re opening a new visitor

center, and the Interior Secretary is here.” Gator would arrive

late on the first night.

As a streak of blue snaked into the black sky, Jennifer and

I set out across an open field. We were hunting her family’s

700-acre farm about a mile from the Snake River, prime deer

habitat. “The mule deer and whitetail come into the fields to

feed on grain left over after the harvest,” she told me.

The family farm was also a practical choice, as we

wouldn’t have to worry about access or opening-day

crowds. For backpackers, route planning is as easy as

opening a Trails Illustrated map. For hunters, though,

land access is a challenge. Not all public land is open

to hunting. Rules change even within states. Shooting a

whitetail deer might be legal on one side of a dirt road

and illegal on the other.

As it became light, Jennifer began pointing out signs of

wildlife. A badger hole, a coyote print. “Deer track,” she said,

pointing out a print I’d nearly stepped on. “It’s a buck.”

“How can you tell?”

“Bucks have dewclaws that leave a little mark in the

ground; does’ dewclaws don’t make prints.”

We kept walking, careful to keep our profiles below the

ridgeline. Jennifer kept her body still. Her eyes constantly

scanned the horizon. She learned how to spot wildlife when

she was a kid, going hunting with her dad.

At the top of a rise, we stopped to glass the distant fields.

“There’s one,” Jennifer said. “A whitetail.”

It took me a while to find the deer. It was a tiny speck on

the landscape, at least a mile distant.

We crossed a barbed-wire fence and hopped a stream. As

a hiker, I would have overlooked this as dross land, the junk

you’d cross to reach the trailhead. As a hunter, it came alive

with excitement and potential. My eyes became attuned to

the terrain. Pockets of brush—chokecherries and rosehips,

mostly—turned into deer refuges. Cresting a hill became a

test of stealth and readiness. Ever so slowly, I began to think

like a deer. What’s good cover? Where’s the food?

As we came over another rise, Jennifer and I froze. Four

whitetail deer grazed in a pocket of brush below us. In an

instant, they spotted us and bolted. They were over the hill

before I could even swing the rifle off of my back.

My hopes crashed. I knew the deer would move. I just

didn’t know they’d move so fast.

“Why don’t you put one in the chamber,” Jennifer said. “We’ll be ready next time.”

I loaded a bullet and we kept walking, a little quieter now.

All we could hear was the sound of wheat stalks crunching

under our boots. Then I spotted them. One deer. No, two.

Then I saw all six, browsing in a wheat pocket below us.

I glanced at Jennifer. She and I slowly backed away from

the edge of the bluff, erasing our bodies from the herd’s sight.

We crouched and glassed them. “Muleys,” Jennifer whispered.

Mule deer are less skittish than whitetail deer. A whitetail

will be in the next county by the time a muley starts thinking

about trotting away.

At least one of the deer looked legal: Three points on each

side of his rack. I belly-crawled to the lip of the bluff. Grass

tickled my cheek. The buck stood broadside, offering a perfect

target. The others were bedded down. I glanced at Jennifer.

“The one standing,” I whispered. “Is he legal?”

“Yes.”

I looked through the scope and confirmed it.

And here we came to the point of decision. “You can’t call

a bullet back” is a common saying among hunters. At this

moment, I can take my finger off the trigger and walk away.

But I don’t. Neither my head nor my heart feels the flutter of

Crossing the Divide Can hikers and hunters just get along? We

asked readers and Facebook fans to weigh in.

Should hunting be

allowed in national parks?

NO 67% YES 33%

Have you participated in a hunt in the last five years?No 69% Yes 31%

If you were to take up hunting, would you choose a…Gun 54%Bow 43%Trap 3%

On a scale from 1 to 5, where 1=not cool and 5=cool, what’s your opinion of shooting wolves from a helicopter?

1: 82% 2: 4% 3: 11% 4: 1% 5: 2%

If you had to share your trails with one of these groups, which would you choose?

Hunters 39%

Horsebackriders 32%

ATVers 2%

Mountainbikers27%



any last-second moral qualms. Instead, I find myself thinking

about bringing food home to my family. Ridiculous? Maybe.

But that’s what’s in my head when I pull the trigger.

BOOM.

Though I’d fired it a couple of dozen times, the .270 still

rattles me to the core. The calm, clear-eyed world seen

through the riflescope goes herky-jerky. For a full second,

all six deer freeze.

“Is he hit?” I ask.

“Yep,” says Jennifer. “You got him.”

Five of the deer scatter. They hop over the bluff and tear

east for the Snake River. The sixth deer doesn’t get that far. He

takes one full step, then bucks high into the air and collapses

on his side. He kicks once more before lying still. He’s dead.

“Wow,” I say. “My god.”

Jennifer and I stand and watch the herd disappear over

the ridge.

“So how did it feel?” she asks.

“Amazing,” I say, and can’t find words after that. Here’s

what I feel, and it’s not going to make me popular among

my vegetarian friends. I feel happy. Proud. Fulfilled. The

two minutes and 10 seconds that elapsed between the time

we spotted the deer and when I pulled the trigger (I kept

my tape recorder running, and timed it later) were among

the most intense, primal, and profound moments I’ve ever

spent in the outdoors. I can’t explain those feelings. But I

can’t deny them, either.

“Field dressing” is a pretty term for a bloody, messy, disgusting operation. It involves cutting open a freshly

killed animal and removing its guts and organs. It’s done

on the spot, at the point of the kill—otherwise, the carcass

is too heavy to haul. The guts are left for coyotes and other

scavengers. Jennifer tutors me on the finer points.

“Start your cut here,” she says, pointing to the deer’s nether

regions. Jennifer and I spend the next half an hour slicing

FAQ: Hunting 101WHERE CAN I LEARN HOW TO USE A GUN? Find a local firing range

with rentals and instruction. A .30-06 rifle works for anything from

antelope to buffalo. Start here: wheretoshoot.org.

WHEN DOES HUNTING SEASON START? Seasons vary by state, by

animal, and by weapon. Bow season often starts before rifle

season, for example. Tip: Avoid the (very busy) opening day of

deer season, when accidents are more likely. Find links to state

wildlife departments at huntinfo.org.

DO I NEED A PERMIT? Yes, you need a license specific to the type of

hunting you’ll do. You’ll likely need to take a hunter-safety course

(some states offer an “apprentice license” that lets you go with a

more experienced hunter first). See nssf.org/hunting/getstarted.

WHERE SHOULD I GO HUNTING? Start with relatively easy terrain

(fields, rolling hills, open forest) so you can focus on learning new

skills without significant backcountry challenges. Hike away from

roads for solitude; just be certain you can pack a dead animal out.

A vehicle rollover, a downed aircraft, a blizzard. If you push limits,

the world will periodically push back. That’s why the Crank™ is an

edged weapon fi rst and a multi-tool second. No other tool in your

kit can defend, feed, and shelter

you. It’s plan-B when plan-A is

in flames and taking on water.

Frame holes. Lash it to a

stick to make a survival

spear.

1/2-inch wrench.

The most common size.

Single-bevel edge.

Easier to sharpen

in the fi eld.

Stout pocket clip for

dependable retention.

Hardened 7075 aluminum frame;

just 1.2 ounces.

Insert quarter or penny for two sizes of fi eld expedient fl athead screw drivers.

3-inch, 154CM stainless steel blade. Designed for extreme use.

Bottle opener. For a sweet celebration when you get home alive.

Protected cord cutter.

Blade bar lock. Protects fi ngers from injury.


Continues on page 108

through deer hide

and peeling through

the animal’s thin,

mucousy layer of fat.

The shifting breeze

sends a briny funk of

odor—the smell of

warm blood mixed

with body gasses—

up my nose. I fight

back a dry-heave.

By the time Gator

arrives that evening,

my deer is cooling

in a local meat locker. “Time to get

you yours,” I tell him. I can’t believe I’m

saying those words even as they leave

my mouth.

Gator is a bit of a legend in

mountaineering circles. He pulled injured

climbers off of Mt. Rainier for nearly 20

years. He’s almost as famous for his

eclectic collection of friends. Senators,

CEOs, Everest-climbing superstars, and

backwoods hippies all consider Gator

their righteous bro. One of those friends,

Ted Cox, is a seasonal Rainier employee

in his 60s who’s come along on the

hunting trip to…well, nobody’s quite

sure why he’s come along. Ted opposes

hunting like dogs oppose cats—with

loudness and constancy. “I’m here to

witness the slaughter,” Ted declares.

The next morning, Gator, Ted, and

I are up just before dawn, pounding

coffee. Gator’s day often starts with

a 2 a.m. alpine start, so this is a lazy

Sunday for him. “Sure beats getting up

in the middle of the night in a storm on

the side of a mountain,” he says.

“I can’t believe you’re really going

through with this,” scolds Ted. “What

have you got against some poor,

defenseless creature?”

Gator laughs. “Aw, Ted. What about

those fish you like to catch?”

“That’s different,” says Ted.

We hike through fields to the sloping

coulees of the Snake River canyon. At

the rim we pause to take in the scene, a

classic Western vista that hasn’t changed

much since Lewis and Clark came upon

it more than 200 years ago. The Snake

drains most of Idaho, and the river’s

breaks are formidable—dry gulches and

ravines falling away and folding in on

themselves for more than a mile before

hitting water. Deer, coyotes, and other

wildlife come here to hide out in the

rock crevices and pockets of brush.

Gator and I scramble over steep

terrain. Because of the rifle on my

back, I find myself placing steps with

newfound precision. A tumble here

could easily lead to a misfire, or worse.

“You’ve got to add something to

the equation when you’re hunting the

breaks,” Jennifer had told us. “That’s

whether you can haul a 150-pound

deer up the cliffs after you shoot it.”

“Honestly, I’m not that worried about

bagging a deer,” Gator says. “The

main thing I’m concerned about is not

making a lousy shot and letting some

poor animal wander off wounded.”

We crouch by a pocket of trees

and brambles. “There’s got to be

something in there,” I say. “Why

don’t you set up a shot while I

flush?” Gator hugs the ground and

props himself on his elbows. I toss

some rocks into the trees. After the

crackle and thunk, movement.

“Two of ’em,” I say.

“I see them,” Gator murmurs.

A doe and her yearling emerge from

the shadows. Gator takes his finger off

the trigger. Our tags are for bucks, not

CARNIVORE’S DILEMMA:

EXPECT A GALLON OF

BLOOD FROM A BUCK.


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What to do when the you-know-what hits the fan ➜



When Sir Ernest Shackleton crossed the icy glaciers

of South Georgia Island in 1916—the final hurdle of his

16-month epic in Antarctica—he didn’t have crampons, so

he twisted metal boat screws into the soles of his boots

for traction. In a similarly brilliant stroke, John Wesley

Powell, trapped on a cliff 400 feet above the Colorado River without a

rope, had his men scramble up to nearby ledges and pin him to the wall

with long oars so he could climb down. And John Muir crawled inside

a hollow tree trunk to escape the flames of a Sierra wildfire. It seems

H.G. Wells was right: “Adapt or perish, now as ever, is nature’s inexorable

imperative.” To learn how to grapple with life-or-death scenarios,

improvise survival tools when key gear gets lost, and grade your own

emergency skills, read on.

Long before satellite beacons, humans thrived in the wild with the best technology available: a knife. And with that one tool and some basic knowledge, they fulfilled all life-sustaining needs. Flagstaff, Arizona–based survival expert Tony Nester helps today’s tech-dependent humans get back to their primal roots with his popular “Knife Only” course. “A knifeless man is a lifeless man,” Nester says. Here is how to cut, slice, and pry your way out of any mess with these sur-vival fundamentals.

For thousands of years, humans made fire by rubbing two sticks together (aka the hand drill). Here’s how to make one:

1. For the spindle and fireboard, find some dry, soft, and non-resinous (no sap) wood—like yucca, cottonwood, poplar, cedar, cypress, or elm—which are easier to create friction with. The spindle stick should be about 16 inches long, ¾-inch thick, and fairly straight. Sharpen the bottom end like a pencil tip, and whittle away any jagged or rough spots on the shaft so you can easily run your hands along it.

2. The fireboard should be about six inches by one inch wide, and ¾-inch thick. Carve this rectangular piece so it lies flat on the ground. Cut a V-shaped notch, half as deep as the board, into the edge. Next, carve out a pencil-eraser-size depression at the base of the V, where you will place the spindle tip.

3. Position a leaf, piece of thin bark, or your knife blade (any-thing as thick as an index card) under the board to catch the coal that will fall out of the board’s notch.

4. For the tinder bundle, gather dry and pithy materials (cat-tails, mullein, grass, bark, moss), and shape them into a bird’s nest. Place it within arm’s reach.

5. Get in a stable kneeling or sitting position, with one foot on the edge of the fireboard to steady it. Put the tip of the spindle in the board’s depression, and place your hands at the top. Using significant downward pressure, roll your hands back and forth, up and down the spindle. Go slowly at first to deepen the board’s notch. Then go faster (a lot faster), bear-ing down on the spindle with your body weight as you roll it in your hands. Hot dust will be generated first, then smoke, and as the spindle glows red from the friction, a tiny ember will appear in the notch. If the ember doesn’t automatically fall into your catching device, gingerly tap the board.

6. Transfer the ember to the center of the tinder, blow gently until you have flames, then erect small sticks around it, tepee-style.

Survival Secret

Always carry a reliable firestarter. Nester favors a magnesium spark rod and Vaseline-coated cotton balls, which burn even in rain. Rub one teaspoon of Vaseline into a cot-ton ball; pack a few loosely in a film canister. Also good: butane lighters. P

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In the wild with…

Only aKnife

Photography by Dan Saelinger /// Illustrations by Peter Sucheski

The most energy-efficient option is to create a nest. Pile up leaves, pine needles, and moss to create a giant

sleeping bag that will trap your body heat. Make the mound about the length and width of a single mattress and five feet high, if possible. “You should have two feet of insulation below you and two feet above,” Nester says. “I’ve stayed warm like this on 10°F nights.” To tuck yourself in, scoop out a trough in the middle, sit inside butt first, then pull the debris over your body, working up from your feet.

On rainy nights fashion a lean-to against a short tree like a juniper. Use a sturdy, low branch as the shelter’s ridgepole. Knife-chop boughs (or scavenge) and lean them against the branch, then fill in the holes with forest debris so no light shows through. Insulate the floor with one foot of leaves and pine needles.

Also, site your shelter wisely. Avoid ravine bottoms, since cold air sinks, and high, wind-whipped spots. Instead, set up next to a broad rock face or tree that has been soaking up the sun’s warmth all day and will release it at night.


Survival Secret For hours of extra warmth, place football-size rocks at the campfire’s edge until they’re warm to the touch. Hug one against your chest (under a jacket but over a shirt), and put one between your legs and another near your neck or head.

In most emergen-cies, food isn’t a priority. Depending on your extra reserves (love han-dles were never so welcome), it takes a month or more to starve to death. Conserve energy and water by stay-ing put rather than foraging. “The fasting body taps into its fuel stores,” Nester says. “In survival situations, people can last 25 percent longer this way compared to those who burn calories looking for a measly morsel.”

But you can graze on nearby food like: acorns and other tree nuts; ants and ant larvae; grasshop-pers and crickets (roast these first to avoid stomach upset); and fish.

To make a fish-ing spear, carve a 10-inch tip onto a sturdy stick about eight feet long and 1.5 inches thick; saplings work well. Harden the tip in hot coals for a few minutes. Then pin a fish to the creek bed and grab it with your hands.

« This is a knife! A Swedish Mora with a 3 7⁄8-inch fixed blade is Tony Nester’s preferred tool for bushcraft ($20, apathways.com). The reason: A fixed blade with a full tang (meaning the blade runs through the length of the handle) is stronger, so the handle never breaks. He favors carbon steel because you can sharpen it against a smooth river stone using an arcing motion against the rock. It also sparks when you strike the back of the blade with a piece of quartzite, flint, or chert.

That’s Not a

Knife

Stay cool Hole up in the shade andwait until dusk to hunt for water. If

you have a bottle of liquid left, drink it at your normal pace, or until your urine is mostly clear. “Rationing water, especially in the desert or the tropics, hastens heat exhaustion,” says Nester.Search smartly Top spots to look: shady areas at the base of north-facing cliffs; islands of green vegetation; rock depressions; tree trunk cavities; undercut banks or shady, outer bends in dry riverbeds; and anywhere you see birds and insects gathering. No sources nearby? Head down gullies, or dig wells with your knife: Find a spot that’s likely near the water table such as a riverbed. Dig a few holes, about two feet deep, and wait five minutes. If water seeps up, line the hole with pebbles so it’s less porous. Sop up mud with a shirt and wring the moisture into your mouth.No purification method? Guzzle anyway. Most water bugs take weeks to incubate, but you can die in days from dehydration.

SURVIVE!

p the suns warmthd will

Find H20Find food

Cave Man

For instructions on building an emergency win-ter shelter, see backpacker.com/

snowshelter.

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So you’ve zigzagged into the woods to drink your sad self into oblivion with a fifth of Johnnie Walker Red, hop-ing night freezes away life’s pain. Then a bluebird alights on your shoulder, chirps a sweet song of hope, and you realize life is possibly worth living. But now you’re lost! Crikey—what next? Well, friend, dry those tears and put that hooch to good use.

Survival guru Tony Nester suggests tying a bandana or shoelace around the bottle’s neck, then hanging the bottle somewhere elevated, like a tree branch. The key is to get it off the ground, so you expose more surface area and maximize glint. This passive signal-ing method also frees you up to perform key tasks like shelter-building. Any shiny object will work: bottles, mirrors, space blankets, hubcaps, bike parts, even a machete.

Early settlers in Canada’s Red River area who mixed a little whiskey into their drinking water had fewer inci-dences of waterborne illness than their counterparts, reports BACKPACKER columnist and wilderness-medicine expert Buck Tilton. Add a shot to your liter of water, then wait 20 minutes. You want dead—not drunk—giardia.

Survival Secret One thing liquor won’t do is warm you: Although alcohol makes you feel flushed temporarily, via peripheral vasodi-lation, the dilated vessels near your skin’s surface shed heat into a cold environment faster than narrower vessels. Alcohol’s diuretic effect further abets hypothermia, since temperature con-trol is harder when you’re dehydrated.

To make wood more flammable, whiskey-soak it to the core, then wait a few minutes so the vapors disperse, reducing the risk of a fireball. In damp conditions, resin-ous woods (pine, spruce, fir, mesquite)—which have a lower ignition point—work best; avoid oaks and maples.

Nester also suggests filling a small can (like a tuna or Altoids can) with whiskey and lighting it. Or you can build a sand fire by scooping a cupful of dirt into a mound; it must be a dry substrate like sand, or clay formed into a small clay pinch pot. Then pour in a quart of whiskey. It should burn 10 to 30 minutes; as the flame dies, use a stirring stick to bring fuel back to the surface and add a few minutes of life. Although your sand fire won’t be hot enough to boil water, it can provide warmth, heat food, or help light a signal fire. For the latter, feed in twigs, then transfer the burning twigs to a fire pit. (Beware of wildfire hazard in dry backcountry areas.)

If you don’t have a lighter, pour out the whiskey, fill the bottle with water, and start a fire magnifying-glass style. With the sun at its zenith (11 a.m. to 2 p.m.), focus the sun’s beams onto some rotten, punky wood, dry cow pies, or elk droppings until you get a glowing ember. Nestle this in grass or dry bark, then blow it into a flame. If the bottle has broken, try a shard: Add one or two beads of liquid, then lie flat with your forearms supported, focusing the beam as per above, with the water-droplet side facing the sun. You must let the pinpoint of light concentrate for 20 to 30 sec-onds on the tinder before it will ignite, so keep still and be patient.

Now imagine you’re injured—does the old cowboy “whiskey in the wound” method work? Modern liquor, including bourbon,

clocks in at 40 percent alcohol, only half the punch of the Wild West moonshines, but it still kills topical germs, Tilton says. It might also kill healthy cells, however, and it burns like hell, mak-ing clean water a better option. Whiskey does work to sterilize instruments and to blunt pain—drinking two ounces of 90-proof George Dickel reduces pain roughly 50 percent for two hours.

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Treat iffy water

Lost with…

Only a Bottle of Whiskey


You’re hiking. You slip. You’re hurt. But the first-aid kit is back in the car—12 miles away. What should you do? First, don’t panic. “You can improvise almost everything in your first-aid kit,” says Tod Schimelpfenig, curricu-lum director of the Wilderness Medicine Institute of the National Outdoor Leadership School.

Research shows that plain ol’ water cleans cuts very effec-tively. Irrigate the injury with at least one liter of the cleanest water available; ideally, use purified water (iodine is fine) and squirt it through a bladder or zip-top bag. If you have soap, apply it to the surrounding skin but not inside the wound itself, rinsing with water when you’re done. Otherwise, just bandage it until you’re back in antiseptic’s reach.

The key is creativity. Some good choices: long bundles of grass (align them lengthwise along the limb); your sleeping pad; a stove screen; trekking poles; sticks; or pack stays. Secure the splint with strips of cloth, straps, or vines. Make sure the splint is firm but padded, and immobilizes the joints above and below the fracture (so if you break your shinbone, immobilize the knee and ankle). The splint shouldn’t constrict blood flow, and it should allow access to fingers and toes, so you can check circulation.

Find the cleanest fabric handy, tear off a piece, then fold or crumple it, and place it on the cut. Apply pressure. If you need to add more bandages, apply them without removing the first. Once bleeding has stopped, clean the wound and rebandage. Hold fabric in place with straps or strips of cloth. For gap-ing (nonvenomous) wounds, use ¼-inch strips of duct tape to close the cut as close as possible to the original skin position.

People have applied old-man’s beard (usnea) as an antiseptic for centuries. These greenish, hair-like tufts grow on tree branches worldwide. Pull back the main stem’s sheath; usnea has a white cord in the center. Place a clump on the cut.

For every 1,000 vertical feet gained, UV exposure increases by five percent; and snowfields reflect 90 percent of the sun’s glare. To prevent snowblindness, always wear sunglasses. But if a fashionable marmot swipes your Ray-Bans, cut UV exposure by folding a one-foot piece of duct tape in half to cover the sticky side. Cut eye slits one-inch wide and ¼-inch tall; punch holes in the ends; and tie them with a cord.

Injured with…

No First-Aid Kit

Above treeline with...

No Sunglasses

Nature’s antibiotic

SURVIVE!



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You’re floundering on a frozen snowfield while your cram-pons sit forlorn and forgotten on the credenza at home. If you encounter steep snow or icy trails without crampons, it’s best to turn back or find another way. But if quitting isn’t an option, you can increase traction on snow and ice by embed-ding nails or screws in your boot treads. If you’re loathe to per-forate the soles, drive the screws through a thin plank of wood or bark, and secure one plank to each foot with straps or duct tape. Since most hikers don’t pack extra screws, you might be able to scavenge them from a miner’s cabin or fence. Strands of barbed wire, rusty mattress springs (stretched flush against the sole and over the sides), and shredded aluminum-can bottoms

also work. A less effective but more widely available approach is to wrap a densely knot-ted rope around the bottom of your shoes, like tire chains. Polar explorer Ranulph Fiennes depended on this approach while descending the Beardmore Glacier during his successful 1992-93 Antarctic crossing.

Survival Secret Need to ascend a steep snowfield but don’t have an ice axe? Carry a tent stake to help you self-arrest in case of an unex-pected and possi-bly perilous slide.

Few forms of hiking are more frustrating, exhausting, and potentially dead-ending than postholing (aka, flailing through thigh-deep snow). If a storm struck overnight or you forgot to pack snowshoes—but still have miles to go—save energy and stay drier by constructing your own Ojibwas.

Cut down two pine branches that are still green, full of needles, and about three times the length of your boots. Densely needled boughs perform

better than strips of bark or wooden boards because the gaps between the needles let the snow sift through, just like the lattices found in regular snowshoes.

Step lengthwise onto the center of each branch; orient them so the tips face forward and the woody stems extend behind you. Strap the boughs

securely to your boot soles using compression straps, cordage, or tent guy-lines. Trim the branches so there's not excess overlap, which can trip you up.

To keep the boughs from shifting as you walk, weave the straps through your boot laces. (Prefer high-performance snowshoes? See

page 53 for tips on buying the right model.)

Need fire but have…

No TinderWhen the ground is drenched, look in your pack for dry, flammable fuel.

Burn this…› Alcohol-based hand sanitizer A grape-size dab will burn almost invisibly for 90 seconds.

› White gas Though it evaporates in the open air, it does so slowly.

› Cooking oil Unrefined oils work best.

› DEET bug sprays Burning OFF! might create some unhealthy fumes, but it’s worth it if you need a fire.

› Gauze bandages Or paper products like TP, tissue, trash, or playing cards

› Steel wool It lights even when wet.

› Fabric Apply the above fire acceler-ants to cotton or wool garments, or silnylon. Torn strips of cotton ignite easily and blaze brightly. Tighter weaves burn longer, so shirts and underwear work better than socks.

Don’t burn…› Butane from an opened lighter When exposed to air, it evaporates quickly.

› Polyester Synthetics light slowly and melt into a fire-killing plastic

Stuck in powder with...

No Snowshoes

1

2

3


Here in the world of professional backpacking, those of us who have been around the backcountry block and have seen some things—and, yes, escaped a few brushes with physi-cal and other kinds of nearly certain death—we possess a secret survival method that’s as effective as it is unorthodox. Variously known as the Pringles Primer, the Fritos Firestarter, or the (more on this later) Fritos Firebomb, this mystery is one we reveal here only because, frankly, photographer Dan Saelinger shot a really cool picture of it. Inadvertently invented at an ’80s bonfire in southern Ohio, the technique

Word up to Eric Schlosser and all you other health-food ninnies out there: A bag of greasy chips could save your triglyceride-loathing, carb-counting, GMO-bashing arses.

is dirtbag simple: Flick a Bic under a greasy sliver of potato, and that all-American farm product will burn for 45 to 60 seconds (per 1.87g serving—the weight of an average chip these miserly days). The flame won’t cook the rabbit you just snared, but several blazing crisps will lick your recalcitrant kindling enough to get a real fire going. We never carry chips on trips (though we love Tim’s Cascade Jalapeño afterward), but extensive testing reveals that Fritos Scoops! is the sine

qua non of incendiary snacks. As for the Firebomb, put on your pyro thinking cap and imagine a white gas marinade.

SURVIVE!

Lost with...

Only Some Junk Food



Uh-oh, you forgot to download free maps at Backpacker.com, and now you’re lost in the woods without any navigational tools. Smart! Now follow these rules to get found.

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Start by locating the sun. It rises in the east and sets in the west (yes, lost persons have messed this up). It also sits low on the southern horizon during winter and, by midsummer, is almost overhead. If the time is close to noon, use this watch method to fix a direction more accurately: Take an analog watch (or draw one on the ground, taking the time from your digital watch). Position the watch so the hour hand points at the sun. The line that bisects the angle between the hour hand and 12 o’clock (1 o’clock during DST) is aligned north to south; find north by recalling that the sun tracks through the southern horizon.

Survival Secret

If you’re lost, regularly double-check your direc-tion as you hike to make sure you’re not wandering in circles or letting the terrain deter-mine your path.

At night, you can identify Polaris (the North Star) by first finding the eas-ily recognized Big Dipper. Take the two stars that form the lip of the Big Dipper’s cup, and trace a

line upward (for about five times the distance between the two stars) until you reach a faint star. This is Polaris, and it always points north. Mark this direction in the dirt before sheltering for the night, and follow it in the morning.

Stop moving and start thinking about your last known location, usually a singular spot like a summit, trail sign, river crossing, or a lake. Return to that place if possible. If you can’t back-track, you’ll need to navigate by dead reckoning. The good news is that most hikers lose their way within a mile of a marked trail, road, parking lot, or structure. So if you know a road or a trail is somewhere east of your location—and you’re certain you can travel east without a compass—head in that direction. The bad news is that lost people generally cannot follow a straight line across wilderness terrain. Unless you are totally confident, stay put and wait for rescue.

Fording the river didn’t seem risky until the moment your butt hit the water. Now you’re soaked up to your pits as the evening mercury drops below 45°F. Your goal: Prevent hypothermia.

Find a spot sheltered from the wind and, if possible, in the sun. Remove wet cloth-ing, including socks and underwear, and don the warmest, driest layers you have; cover your head and neck, too. No dry clothes? Start a fire. Also, insulate your-self from the ground with a pad or pack.

Still shivering or feeling clumsy? You need to raise your temp fast. Pitch your tent and unroll your sleeping bag inside, so it’s ready. Do jumping jacks, and cook up a warm drink that has no caffeine or alcohol (both are diuretics, and dehydra-tion hampers temperature regulation).

Slurred speech, resisting help, and confu-sion signal hypothermia’s downward spiral. If those symptoms develop, zip the victim into a dry sleeping bag, treat for shock by raising his feet, and place a water bottle or bladder filled with lukewarm—not hot—water against his chest, back, groin, and head. Before you strip naked to spoon with your buddy, know that a 1994 Canadian study in the Journal of Applied Physiology showed that body-to-body contact doesn’t warm up hypothermia victims any faster than applying heated water bottles at these key areas. Plus, it chills another person.

Survival Secret

Sugary drinks and foods boost a hypo-thermic person’s ability to generate body heat. For other key tips, check out BACKPACKER’S Outdoor Survival: Skills to

Survive and Stay Alive ($13, falcon.com).

Orient yourself

Get dry

Treat hypothermia

Warm things up

North StarTrue North

Little Dipper

Big Dipper


Doing more (fresh-baked pizza and rumaki hors d’oeuvres) with less (a canister stove and a frying pan) is the essence of backcountry cooking. But when you’re stuck without pots, pans, or utensils for more than a week, knowing how to cook and boil water with these four stand-in containers can be a vital, calorie-providing skill.

It is possible to boil water in plastic jugs—even flimsy #1 PET soda bottles. Since too much heat will melt plastic, shield the bottle from direct flames by suspending it from a cord or shoelace four to six inches above the fire. Spin the bottle to distribute the heat. Hard plastic bottles and water bladders are more heat-resistant, but still never put them directly in flames.

Survival SecretsUse tent stakes—not poles—to create a grill over a fire, since they resist heat better.

A prickly pear pad effectively filters water. Slice the pad in half and place both halves, insides facing down, in the water container or well (let sediment set-tle in the container first). The pad’s thick gum will soak up most of the dirt and nasty bacteria after about 30 minutes.

To cook freeze-dried meals without a pot, remove the dry food from the foil pouch, fill it with water, and heat it over a stove or fire. When the water boils, add the food, and mix as instructed. Save the bag to heat additional water later.

Unlike foil pouches, zip-top plastic bags won’t sur-vive high heat. But you can steam-cook with them. First, place a flat rock atop a stove or fire. (Note: Avoid using river rocks; the latent water inside their crevices might cause the rocks to expand and frac-ture when heated.) Suspend a zipped bag containing your water and uncooked food (pasta, rice, vegeta-bles, tea, etc.) directly over the hot rock. Drip water onto the rock to generate steam, which will cook the food without destroying the bag. Cooking times vary widely, but ballpark is 10 minutes.

If you’re feeling prehistoric, light a wood fire in a hole about one foot deep and three feet wide. When the fire peaks, add large rocks; as the flames die into coals, cover the rocks with wet, green plant material—the wetter, the better. Add a layer of uncooked food (red meat, fish, veggies), then a second layer of flora. Cover the pit with two to four inches of dirt and wait several hours until the food is cooked.

Famished but with…

No Cooking Pots

The Survival Encyclopedia Find 7 ways to light a fire (including with your cell phone!), 10 essen-tial knots, and much more at our Survival 101 Center at backpacker

.com/survival101.

Heat pouchesSteam-cook in zip-top bags

Bake dinner in a pit oven

5

6

4

3

2

1

LAYERS

1. Dirt

2. Plants

3. Food

4. Plants

5. Rocks

6. Coals

SURVIVE!

Boil - in - the - bottle



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Josh and Jacob Gately, two brothers from Missouri, began their descent of Colorado’s Mount of the Holy Cross together back in October 2007. As mist swirled around them at 13,000 feet, Jacob hiked ahead of his brother and became separated by the rugged terrain. When Josh arrived at base-camp a few hours later, his brother wasn’t there. Scenarios like this play out all the time in the wilderness. If faced with it, here’s what to do.

First, look at your watch. Knowing how long your buddy has been gone will help you and SAR teams calculate how far he might have traveled. Then orga-nize anyone else in camp for a quick hunt in the immediate vicinity. Spend only an hour sweeping the area, because only 40 percent of hasty searches are successful.

If you don’t make contact quickly, leave a note in case he returns, then head toward the last known point where you saw the missing person. If that fails, apply these stats to the terrain around you to determine where to search next: Two-thirds of lost hikers show up within two miles of their final known location; more than half move downhill; and 75 percent follow trails, streams, drainages, and other easy paths (at an average speed of two mph). One-third continue to move after dark, but most stop mov-ing after 24 hours.

If the lost hiker doesn’t turn up within a few hours, or you’re concerned about cold weather or his ability to survive the night, contact rangers or call 911 to initiate a pro-fessional search. That’s what Josh did, and two days later, a SAR team discovered Jacob hypothermic and frostbitten—but alive.

“Start as a group, hike as a group, and end as a group,” says Lt. Todd Bogardus, SAR coordinator with New Hampshire Fish and Game. Since groups naturally spread out, make it a rule to assemble at every junction, turn, and sign. Also, assign a sweeper to bring up the rear, and make sure everyone carries a map and a whistle, and knows the rally point (like a campsite or a trailhead).

Ounce for ounce, few items can improve your survival chances more than a humble trash bag. And you’re prob-ably packing several already, as liners for your stuffsacks and as cheap pack covers. But when trouble arises, they can do much more. Note: For these tasks, opt for brightly colored, heavy-duty lawn bags 30 to 55 gallons in size and 3 mils (1/1000 of an inch) thick.

Create two buoyancy chambers—and a place in-between to grab on to—by filling the bottom of the trash bag with air and cinching down the middle section with tape or cord. Then inflate the top of the bag with air and tie it closed. Trash bags can also be used to collect water.

Survival Secret

Bright-yellow bags are more visible in low light and at night than black or red ones. Unfurl and wave them to signal airborne rescuers.

Take the UltimateSurvival

Quiz!Open here

➥

On your debris shelter’s roof (see page 73), layer one bag between the layers of branches and leaves. For a mat-tress, stuff a second bag with dry litter.

Cut slits for your head and arms, and slip the bag over your torso. Shivering from the wind? Tuck the end into your pants and stuff the interior with dry leaves.

1. Do a hasty search

2. Backtrack

3. Call in help

Lost with…

Only a Trash Bag

Cross a river Improvise a rainshell

Waterproof a shelter

In the backcountry with…

A MissingPartner

start hereTrue or false: You can

stay alive in the wilds by…

1. Drinking urine

2. Eating snow

3. Drinking from a cactus

4. Sleeping in a space blanket

5. Staying positive

6. Tying bags over plants

7. Eating wild greens

8. True or false: A handful of

roasted, large grasshoppers has

nearly the same number of calo-

ries and protein as a hamburger.

9. True or false: Most bunched

berries are edible.

answers

10. Which mushroom is edible?

A) Cortinarius traganus

B) Clitocybe nuda

11. True or false: When you’re

hopelessly lost in the forest, you

can orient yourself by remem-

bering that all streams lead to

roads, moss grows thicker on the

north side of trees, and spiders

build their webs facing south.

12. You’re still lost, but now

you’re also tired and hungry, and

night is falling. Your only food is

a single energy bar. You should…

A) Save it as long as possible,

because your body will start

burning fat right away and you

might need a quick burst of

energy in the coming days

B) Ration the bar bite by bite,

nibbling on it just enough to

quiet the stomach growls

C) Eat the whole thing, to give you

energy to build a shelter and fire


14. True or false: Hikers get lost

more than any other group of

outdoor recreationists.

15. You surely know that dead,

dry wood (but not rotted) is

always better than wet for start-

ing a blaze, but type matters,

too. True or false: All else being

equal, pine and spruce will light

faster than maple and oak.

16. True or false:

You can start a fire

by striking a diamond

ring against your knife.


�

�

�

�

A B

1. False. It contains too many toxins.

But you can exploit its evaporative-

cooling powers: Pee on a shirt or

bandana, then tie it around your neck.

2. True. Eating snow will hydrate you.

However, if your body temperature

is dropping due to other factors,

chomping on snow will push you into

hypothermia faster.

3. False. The water inside of a barrel

cactus is full of alkaloids, which will

cause you to vomit the liquid. Some

species are also poisonous.

4. False. Although space blankets will

trap heat and are better than nothing,

the nonporous sheet seals in water

5 percent of wild mushrooms are

edible, and one wrong bite can

literally kill you via potent toxins.

11. False. These fables are all unreli-

able. See page 78 for an action plan.

12. C. Only ration the bar if the idea

of having no food freaks you out and

you want the psychological comfort.

13. 1. See page 78.

14. False. Big time. Gino Ferri, PhD,

director of the Survival in the Bush

school, in Ontario, says the vast

majority of lost people are hunters

(56 percent), anglers (24 percent),


remaining 8 percent are hikers and

other “patrons.” Curiously, this 8 per-

vapor from your breath and sweat,

so overnight, you’ll wake up wet

and shivering. You’d be better off

using it to rainproof a debris shelter

(see page 73) or to signal rescuers

via the reflective area.

5. True. “Come up with a reason

to live and focus on that,” says

survival expert Tony Nester. “The

drive to get back home has proven

over and over to be the #1 factor in

successful survival stories.”






7. False. All six-legged insects in

North America are OK, but most

wild plants will wreck havoc on

your GI system. Unless you’re a

skilled botanist, move on; starva-

tion is a slow killer (about 30 days).

8. True. A three-ounce hamburger

patty made from lean ground beef

has about 145 calories and about

15 grams of protein. Approximately

10 large grasshoppers weighing 3.5

ounces total offer about 121 calo-

ries and 13 grams of protein.

9. True. Bunched berries include

raspberries and blueberries.

Avoid white and yellow berries.

10. B. A is poisonous. Less than

23. Which of the following are

signs that someone is drowning?

A) Splashing and waving of arms

B) Shouting

C) Silence

D) Upright posture

24. While backpacking along the

Lost Coast, you pitch camp on a

beach and set out for a dip. You see

a spot in the surf where the waves

are flat, and it looks like there’s an

outbound stream on the surface. Is

this a safe place to swim

A) Yes, because the waves are

calmer at that spot

B) No, that is a danger zone

25. How do you escape a rip current?

A) Swim straight to shore using the

most powerful stroke, the crawl

B) Let it carry you out and then

signal a passing boat

C) Swim parallel to the shore

26. Assuming you can’t get to a

stand of tall trees, which of these

spots is the best place to wait out

a lightning storm?

A) Under any lone tree

B) In a low spot or ravine

C) Atop a rock slab

D) Inside a cave

cent constitutes the majority of those

seeking survival instruction.

15. True. These soft, resinous (sappy)

woods have a lower ignition point.

16. False. Diamonds are much

harder than the steel used in blades.

Hitting your wife’s ring against your

knife will gouge the blade but won’t

produce a spark. However, striking

the blade with the sharp edge of an

opal pendant will get the job done.

17. A. Coral snakes live mostly in the

Southeast and Southwest. The

others are harmless. To tell them

apart, remember: Red on yellow, kills

a fellow. Red on black, friend of Jack.

18. C. By restricting circulation, a

tourniquet prevents blood from

diluting the toxin and reducing tissue

damage. And suction methods have

been shown not to work.

19. All six of these will work (one point

for each), since they have a hardness

between 5 and 6.5 on the Mohs’ scale.

But the last three lose their edges

quickly and require frequent knapping.

20. B. Though cottonwoods are usually

a good sign of water, too, their roots can

reach 40 feet deep. But Bermuda grass

requires water close to the surface.

21. C

22. If you can’t do C, do B (one point for

each). Downed trees form underwater

obstacles called strainers, which can

of water flowing away from shore.

More than 100 Americans drown

in them each year. They can form

anywhere with breaking waves and

are most common around low spots,

breaks in sandbars, piers, and jetties.

Polarized sunglasses help you see

them by reducing glare.

25. C. Rip currents are typically only

30 to 100 feet wide, so you can easily

escape them before they carry you out

to sea. But swimming against the

current will exhaust you.

26. B. Lightning is attracted to high

points, and since wet rock conducts

electricity, lightning can also arc

across slabs and cave openings.

17. Which of these

snakes is deadly?

A) Eastern coral snake

B) Mexican milk snake

C) Organ pipe

shovel-nosed snake

D) California mountain

kingsnake

18. A rattler bites you.

You should...

A) Tie a tourniquet above the bite,

to keep venom from spreading

B) Suck out the venom with a

suction cup or your mouth

C) Immobilize the limb at heart

level and get to a doctor

19. Which of these throw a spark

when struck against a knife?

A) Flint

B) Chert

C) Jasper

D) Quartzite

E) Obsidian

F) Granite

20. In a desert environment,

which of these is a better indica-

tor of accessible water?

A) Cottonwood trees

B) Patches of Bermuda grass

21. Most hikers know that drink-

ing alcohol speeds dehydration,

which creates great danger in

extreme weather conditions. But

how much water must you drink

to offset your booze intake and

avoid dehydration?

A) 2 times as much water

B) 3 times

C) 6 times

D) 10 times

22. Your canoe flipped, and you’re

headed downstream fast. Ahead,

you see a downed tree lying across

part of the river. You should...

A) Swim to it, grab on, and haul

yourself out of the water

B) Swim hard to it and use your

momentum to launch yourself over

C) Avoid it at all costs

D) Float with the current, feet

pointed downstream

snare and drown swimmers.

23. C and D (1 point for each).

Contrary to Hollywood theatrics,

most drowning victims don’t make

a peep. The body’s instinctive

drowning response blocks voluntary

actions like shouting or waving

(though the person might do these

things in the stages preceding

drowning). All actions center around

inhaling, exhaling, and keeping

the mouth above water. Signs of

a drowning person include: mouth

and nose barely breaking the water’s

surface, mouth open, and an upright

posture with no signs of kicking.

24. B. This is a rip current—a stream

27. Fill in the blanks:

attacks, you should

grizzly attacks,


bear, you should...

A) Play dead




C) Run away

29. True or false:



temperature.

30. Never cross

ice unless you

know it’s con-

tinuous and at

least…

A) 3 inches thick

B) 4 inches thick

C) 5 inches thick

31. Which of

these is most

dangerous in out-

door emergencies?

A) Panic

B) Haste

C) Despair

D) Overconfidence







28. B



30. B









Would You Survive?Take our quiz to rate your wilderness IQ.

If you rewarm them in the field, two

things can happen: First, they might

swell up, preventing you from get-

ting your boots back on, and second,

they might refreeze, causing more

damage. Never use a fire or massage

(friction) to warm frostbitten tissues,

which burn easily under dry heat.

34. C. Says survival expert Laurence

Gonzales, “The personality type best

suited to survival is calm, humble,

curious, deliberate, cautious, and (at

the right times) bold.”


denial is natural,” Gonzales says.

Getting beyond it fast is critical.

27. Fill in the blanks: If a black bear

attacks, you should and if a

grizzly attacks, .


bear, you should...

A) Play dead




C) Run away

29. True or false: In the broiling des-



temperature.

30. Never cross

ice unless you

know it’s con-

tinuous and at

least…

A) 3 inches thick

B) 4 inches thick

C) 5 inches thick

31. Which of

these is most

dangerous in out-

door emergencies?

A) Panic

B) Haste

C) Despair

D) Overconfidence

32. If you’re caught in an

avalanche, you should…

A) Curl into a tight ball to avoid

being crushed

B) Fight to stay in the slide’s tail

and create an air pocket in front

of your face with your hands

C) Shed your pack so it doesn’t

drag you down, and get your

feet forward

33. What is the best way

to treat frostbitten

feet?

A) Leave your

boots on until you

reach a warm

shelter, then heat

up your feet near

a fire (or apply

heat packets

or warm water

bottles against

the skin); speed

up the process by

rubbing your feet

with your hands

B) Leave your boots on

until you reach a warm

shelter, then heat them in lukewarm

water or with hot, wet cloths

C) Remove your boots and have

your hiking partner suckle your toes

34. Which personality

type is best equipped

to handle survival

situations?

A) Popeye

B) Eric Cartman

C) Ned Flanders

D) Drill sergeant

E) Foghorn

Leghorn

F) Charlie Brown

35. What is the

most common

mistake people

make in the midst

of emergencies?

A) Attempting

to self-rescue

B) Refusing to accept the situation

C) Relying on others to save them

D) Freaking out and making

rash, irrational decisions


Score Your OddsGive yourself one point for each correct answer. You are...

0-5 A Fabergé egg that mostly

serves ornamental purposes

6-10 A fickle ficus that thrives

only in a narrow range of

environments

11-25 A Tuff Shed that’s capable

of weathering most conditions

26-40 The love child of

Sir Ernest Shackleton and

Sigourney Weaver

41-43 A cockroach

pid.” Haste can be good or bad depending

on the situation, and overconfidence

can lure you on into further trouble.

But despair saps the will to live, which

eliminates the #1 reason that people pull

through ordeals.

32. B. Fight: Self-arrest, grab a tree, or

swim (crawl or backstroke) to the side

or back (tail) of the slide, to avoid being

sucked into the subducting head. If you’re

in the head and likely will get buried once

the slide stops (which happens abruptly),

focus on forming a breathing space with

your hands, to disperse carbon dioxide.

33. B. Keep your boots on until you’re in

a place where you can revive your feet

permanently (camp, a cabin, the car).







28. B



30. B









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“Hello, this is 911. Please state your emergency.” If you’re calling for backcountry help on your cell phone, what you say—or sob incoherently—next could determine when you get rescued.

Survival Secret Extend your cell phone’s battery life by warming it in an inner pocket before turning it on to make a call. Storing the batteries at cold temperatures is fine, however, and won’t drain the power.

Assume your first call will be your only call, because storms, fading signals, and dying batteries can disrupt

connections. “You initially need to give your name, problem, general location, physi-cal condition, and cell number to the 911 dispatcher,” says Lt. Todd Bogardus, SAR coordinator with New Hampshire Fish and Game. Before calling, write these details down, check your map, complete an injury inventory, and take a deep breath—a calm, prepared caller tends to communicate better and get key details correct. SAR teams also need to know your last known location. This can be a trailhead, a lake, a road or river crossing, a summit, or a trail sign. Focus on known places because lost hikers often misjudge their current position by many miles. Providing additional details like a GPS waypoint, terrain conditions, sun position, types of nearby trees, river crossings, and distinctive landmarks can narrow a search zone, Bogardus says.

Give the 411

Drowning is the #2 cause of outdoor deaths (falls are #1), so avoid wading waist-deep or too-fast rivers (a tossed, fist-size rock shouldn’t move downstream before sinking), but if no choice exists:

Remove your backpack If you topple with it strapped to your back, the pack will force your torso and head underwater, so unbuckle the waist and sternum straps. If the water is up to your waist or above, wrap your pack in a waterproof bag, and either push or

tow it across the river. Yes, it will float.

Hang on to your sleeping pad This is prob-ably your most buoyant gear. Partially inflate the pad, then roll it up, and make arm loops from the compression straps so it can be your emergency PFD as you wade or swim; this also leaves your hands free for poles. Foam pads also work.

Make water wings Link two or more empty plastic water bottles or bladders together with straps to create a chain of buoys.

Use your trousers Remove your pants, tie off the cuffs, grasp the open waistband, and plunge it top first into the water to fill the legs with air. The Red Cross teaches this when no better options exist. Note: Even Bear Grylls had trouble crossing a lake with only his pants keeping him afloat (he had to re-inflate them midway).

Choose your route Wider or braided channels signal slower, shal-lower water. Face the current at a 45-degree angle and carry poles or sticks. If walking across, wear shoes sans socks for trac-tion. If swimming, go barefoot; sodden boots will drag you down.

Before leaving for a hike, activate your phone’s SAR-friendly “Location” options, under the settings menu. Most newer (post-2005) phones contain a GPS chip that tells emergency responders your approximate position—either through cell-tower triangulation, satellite fixes, or both. Enabling the “Location” function for all calls, not just to 911, makes it easier for cell phone companies to find you. Also, make sure call-forwarding and automatic voicemail are disabled. Most importantly, keep your phone turned off and stuffed inside your pack until you need it (to preserve the batteries).

Enable your phone

Must cross a raging river with...

No Personal Flotation Device

SURVIVE!

Wait!Did you

take the

UltimateSurvival

Quiz?

➥



Now you’ve done it, fumblefingers: bobbled your belay/rappel device or dropped your harness, with one 5.8 pitch left before the summit and three pitches below you back to the ridge. What to do? Other than screaming Mommy, you have options.

The click, click, crap of a dead battery is about as welcome as the rattle of a diamondback in the latrine. Here’s what to do.

Check the juice Clean crusty deposits from inside the battery posts and terminals. That ensures the engine’s starter is receiv-ing a full charge, says AAA-certified master technician Michael Calkins. Nothing? Ask another hiker for a jump. If no one is around, call AAA. No cell reception? Don’t worry. As long as the dashboard warning lights flash when you turn the key—indicating the bat-tery has some juice—you have options.Warm the battery If you think subzero temps (and not the overhead dome light) drained the battery, you can try warming it up (at 5°F, a lead-acid battery produces only half of its normal cranking power). Calkins recommends removing the battery from the engine block and placing it in a pot of hot (not boiling) water, submerged to within two inches of the battery top. Don’t fully immerse it, or place a heat source directly under the pot. Hot water bottles and bladders are less effective, but will still warm up the internal plates. After an hour, try starting the car. Never place a stove or flames near a battery being charged or jumped; it could ignite hydrogen gases.Try pushing If you drive a manual (stick shift) car, you can push-start it if the battery retains enough reserve power to activate the car’s computer, Calkins says. Shut off the radio, heat, and anything electrical, turn the key to the ‘on’ position, and press down the clutch as you shift into first gear. Release the brake pedal, and tell your friends to start pushing. As the car speeds up to 5 or 10 mph (downhill helps), release the clutch, let the engine turn, and give it gas. Note: This doesn’t work with an automatic because the transmission won’t allow the engine to be cranked by the wheels’ motion.Be proactive Get your car inspected pretrip, and buy a portable jump-starter like Black & Decker’s Start It ($90, amazon.com).

Use a locking carabiner and a Munter hitch, popularized in the 1960s by the Swiss guide Werner Munter. This easy, bomber knot has 2.5 kN of holding power when locked off—versus the roughly 2 kN of most belay devices. Ideally, you’ll have a pear-shaped HMS biner, which easily fits two bends of the rope. First, draw the rope through the biner, and form a bight with a half-twist. Flip the bight another 180 degrees and clip it into the biner (fig. 2). To lock it off, bring the brake-hand strand parallel with the side entering the biner (fig. 4). To rappel (with double lines), form the Munter with both rope strands together. Caveat: Keep the knot clear of the biner gate to lower the risk of opening. Oh, and Munters kink ropes to an unholy degree, so use them sparingly.

Let’s say you took it off to pee…in a wind-storm. Whoops! Or, more likely, you just didn’t bring it, not realizing your “fourth class” objective was actually 5.6. You still have options. Back in the day before har-nesses, climbers tied the rope around their waists with a bowline on a coil. This method can snap ribs in a big fall, but it works in a pinch. Bring the rope snugly around your waist at least three times, leaving two to three feet of tail. Form a bight with a half-twist. Bring this under and back through your waist coils, then tie a bowline with the tail. Add an overhand backup with the remaining tail (fig. 4). Voilà, you’re ready to climb. Comfort tip: Jerry-rig leg loops by girth-hitching slings around your gams; clip them to all of the waist coils.

Say—blackest of horrors—you must rappel sans harness. It’s time for the Dülfersitz. Here’s how: Straddle the rap-pel ropes, bringing them back around one leg and across your hip, then up over the opposite shoulder. Now bring the rope down and across your back, where the brake hand holds it beside the wrapped hip. Step backward over the edge, and use your brake hand and the rope’s cross-body friction to meter your descent—go slowly! While the rope’s fric-tion is punishing (pad your cloth-ing accordingly), rope rash beats an appear-ance in next year’s volume of Accidents in

North American

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Stuck at a remote trailhead with…

A Dead Car Battery

Belay without a device

Climb without a harness

Cliffed out with...

No Climbing Gear

Rappel without a harness


Some cracks devour ropes the way marmots munch on radia-

tor lines. If your lifeline gets hung up in a crack while you’re

pulling it between rappels, first try flicking it sharply from

different angles. No luck? If there’s enough free cord, your

partner can belay you while you climb to the snag. Otherwise, be

ready with a belay knife—no, you’re not touching the void,

but you might have to cut that irretrievable rope and make

a series of mini rappels with the remaining cord

(melt the ends to prevent fraying). This is

what alpinist Kelly Cordes had to do when bailing off Mt. Hunter,

in Alaska—rapping about 3,000 feet with only half a length of rope.

“Not fun,” he says, “but it worked.”

SURVIVE!



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In an emergency, paracord can prove just as valuable as a knife and firestarter. You can use it for lashings, tourniquets, makeshift shoelaces, snares, and tying splints. You can even tease out the cord’s individual strands and make a fishing line or sew-ing thread. But how do you carry a useful amount—that will always be on your person—without just shoving it in your pocket? Enter the survival bracelet. Often worn by American soldiers, this is not a fashion accessory but a survival tool. Just like your knife and lighter, this can be worn on your body, in case you become sepa-rated from your gear. To construct one, you’ll need scissors, a lighter, a tape measure, and 10 feet of 550 paracord (breaking strength of 550 pounds). Here are the steps:

1. Cut a two-foot length of cord and melt the ends with the lighter. Fold the cord in half.

Wrap the doubled-up cord around your wrist, pulling the tag ends through the loop. Tie an

overhand knot with the ends; this is the stopper knot. Adjust the knot so you can slip a finger

between the cord and your wrist. Do not trim the ends. This is your base cord.

2. Lay the remaining eight feet of cord in front of you horizontally. Now place the base cord—

with the loop at the top—over the middle of the eight-foot cord, forming a T.

3. Make a cobra knot. To start, take the cord on the left and bring it over the top of the base

cord to form an S.

4. Take the right cord and thread it down through the loop on the right side of the base cord;

then go under the base cord and up inside the loop on the left and pull

tight. Make sure the overhand knot will fit through the small opening at the

top of the base cord.

5. Starting on the right, reverse the process. This will complete

the first cobra knot.

6. Repeat steps 3 through 5 until you are about one-quarter of an inch from

the stopper knot. Check the fit on your wrist by pushing the stopper knot

through the loop at the apex. You can adjust the fit by moving the overhand

knot up or down. The brace-

let needs to fit snugly without

being too tight. When you are

satisfied, trim the tag ends and

melt them with the lighter.

7. To wear, push the stopper

knot through the loop to hold

the bracelet securely on your

wrist. If desired, you can also

add wooden toggles, buttons,

buckles, and other fastening

methods. To use the cord, sim-

ply unweave the bracelet.

DIY Survival Bracelet

SURVIVE!

Accessorize

Find a step-by-

step slideshow

on building this

bracelet at back-

packer.com/surviv-

albracelet.

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Backpacking with relatives

can present emotional chal-

lenges, particularly for the

philosophically inclined

camper. I am such a camper,

and I encountered some dif-

ficult moments on a recent trip into the backcountry. During the lightning storm on the way in, for example, when

I found myself shivering and huddling under a tree while allegedly loving family members chortled at my distress;

at 3 a.m. on our first night, at which point I woke with a splitting headache, upset stomach, and a glum suspicion

that my older brother had intentionally poisoned me with giardia-infested hot chocolate; the slightly awkward

instant earlier, during the otherwise peaceful and happy circle around the campfire, when—after I had recounted

to my niece and nephews how Comanches had perfected torture to an art form in this very country, maybe even

at this very campsite, and how that particular tribe of Native Americans could strip off a man’s skin, layer by layer,

Camping is known to bring loved ones closer together, but what happens when your relations include a treacherous sister, murderous brother, and their savage offspring? Steve Friedman leads his clan into the Rockies to resolve fi ve decades’ worth of sibling rivalry and simmering resentment.*

Family!lF*& ing

ly

My

Illustration by Zohar Lazar 10.2010 BACKPACKER 93



vein by vein, until all that was left were eyeballs and nerve

endings—my younger sister hollered from her tent to knock

it off and if the kids had nightmares, she was throwing them

into my tent and what the hell was wrong with me, anyway?

Those were challenging experiences by the standards of

any camper, even those not as philosophically inclined as

me. But they weren’t as challenging as the moments when I

was betrayed by the two people I thought I could depend on.

First, the terrible and urgent scream from thigh level.

“You promised us s’mores!”

It was Iris, my seven-year-old niece, my sister’s child. Iris

stands 3 foot 9 inches, weighs 44 pounds, has oceanic blue

eyes, hair so blonde it’s almost white, and a sparkling, toothy

smile that makes strangers gasp with reflexive delight. She

has freckles and a pug nose, too. She has a face that compels

people to pinch it and liken it to an angel’s. If only they knew.

“I know, Iris,” I said, “but Uncle Stevie needs some time to

get settled and he’s not sure where the marshmallows are…”

“You! Promised! S’mores!!!” she shrieked again. It was a hei-

nous sound, a primitive howl of rage and pure animal need.

“Please, Iris,” I said. “Uncle Stevie also promised relaxing,

carefree family fun. I need your help. Have a little patience.

You know how your mommy always says patience is some-

thing that will make you happier when you grow up, if you

had more of it. Well, now is a good time to practice and…”

“S’mores! S’mores! S’mores!”

I rubbed my temples.

“Just give her a piece of chocolate, Uncle Stevie. She’s

hungry and tired. And this is how she gets.”

The soothing voice belonged to Isaac, Iris’s 10-year-old

brother, also towheaded, also blue-eyed. But Isaac is calm

where Iris is stormy, quiet where she’s loud, steady where

she is occasionally psychotic and possibly (though the family

hopes not) criminally insane. I have been cultivating Isaac’s

loyalty since he was a toddler, when I had taught him to say

“Mommy doesn’t need to know we had ice cream for lunch”

and “Bedtime is stupid.” Isaac had been a key ally in my

efforts to organize the first Friedman backpacking trip.

I offered Iris a bar of chocolate, which she tore from

my grasp and fell upon, much as a blonde, blue-eyed, pug-

nosed hyena might fall upon the tender and defenseless neck

flesh of a hapless gazelle. She gnashed and tore and chewed.

The wind picked up. The temperature dropped.

“Uncle Stevie,” Isaac said. He would turn 11 the next morn-

ing. It was one reason we’d all gathered for this trip (there were

other, darker reasons, too, and I’ll get to those in a minute).

“Yes, I-dog?”

And then, the second, even more injurious betrayal. A very

challenging moment for me.

“Uncle Stevie,” Isaac repeated, “this trip really sucks.”

THINGS WOULD BE DIFFERENT IF I HAD GOTTEN MY

way, if we had been camping at one of south-

western Colorado’s Ice Lakes, which sit in a glacial

basin. We would have left a day earlier, as I had planned,

ahead of the storm. I might not have misplaced the marshmal-

lows. The kids would not have turned on me. But, of course,

I hadn’t gotten my way. With this group, I—the middle child—

had never gotten my way. My older brother got his way for

many years, because he was bigger. So it didn’t matter that I

preferred suburban St. Louis’s Velvet Freeze ice cream, which

served a simple but proud vanilla, over Baskin Robbins, which

specialized in flavors like Bubble Gum and Apple Pie that

even a five-year-old could tell were cheap, whorish abomina-

tions; or that given my druthers (which I wasn’t), I would have

rather raked the leaves than helped our father push the lawn

mower. But no! I was the little brother, so when it came to

ice cream emporiums and chores, my big brother, Don, got to

decide. (Is it a coincidence that he grew up to marry, bear a

son, and, as CEO, command a large financial services corpora-

tion while I have hopped, philosophically, from writing gig to

writing gig and girlfriend to girlfriend? I think not.)

Then, just as I was ready to start asserting my will and

needs, when I was six years old and my brother was eight,

my little sister was born, and suddenly “the baby” had to be

catered to. That left me, the middle one. The comic relief.

The diplomat. The forgotten child. (There was a brief, embar-

rassing period in my ostensibly adult life when I haunted

the self-help aisles of bookstores to better understand my

underemployment and general malaise; some of the phrases

I learned have stayed with me.)

I’m 54 now, marshmallow-less, chilly, induced to despair

by a savage seven-year-old and her once-dependable

brother. I’m having a challenging moment. The trip is not

turning out quite as I had planned.

“FAMILY RESENTMENTS WILL DRIFT AWAY LIKE

dandelion seeds on the summer wind,” I had

emailed my siblings last spring, lobbying for a

family backpacking trip. “Ancient enmities will melt like the

morning dew in a sun-kissed glade.”

“Whatever,” my sister had emailed back. “But you had bet-

ter not scare the kids with your stupid ghost stories.” (Isaac,

I learned later, had crept into the living room after my last

Colorado visit—at midnight, wide-eyed, refusing to return to

his bedroom. Under interrogation, Isaac admitted that he was

afraid that The Fingernail Mutant was going to get him and

that yeah, Uncle Stevie had told him about the monster.)

“You write pretty,” my brother had replied, “but that

doesn’t mean you’re not insane. No one has forgotten the

giant ham you bought Grandpa for Hanukkah.”

Why did my sister not trust me? Why couldn’t children

keep secrets? Why was my brother forever bringing up painful

episodes from the past? Also, for the record, at the time of the

Hanukkah Ham, I had been seeking a better understanding of

my place in the world. I had been seeking to understand other

holiday traditions and to bridge generational gaps. I had been

seeking to expand my family’s consciousness, and while it’s

true that I had also been smoking lots of marijuana, my shrink

assures me that I have always been a seeker, and that I should *

*


honor that part of my emotional life, because it is sacred.

I had promised my sister—again—that I would not men-

tion The Fingernail Mutant or stolen livers. I told my brother

that I would not steal the chocolate when everyone else was

sleeping, as I’d been accused of doing on previous family

gatherings. Why couldn’t my relatives let go of the past?

What I didn’t say but what I thought was that a bonding

experience together under the stars might help us through

the transitional phases we had recently found ourselves in—

my brother suffering from acid reflux and lower-back pain

brought on, I felt, by overwork, impending global economic

apocalypse, and the imminent departure of his only son,

Eddie, to college; my sister, a single mother of two, living

with her kids and her boyfriend, the couple pondering the

attractions and perils of marriage; and I, girlfriendless, under-

employed, overweight, battling gout, and wondering if lying

about my age by approximately 13 years in my online dating

profile was “pathetic and sick,” as a disturbed, angry, and

distressingly hostile woman whose name I won’t mention

suggested, or merely cagey and forward-looking marketing.

It wasn’t just the grown-ups whom I was thinking of help-

ing. The trip would be good for the youngsters, too. It would

help with the I-dog’s capacious sense of awe and curiosity

regarding the natural world. Camping out would be good for

Eddie, who earns straight As, throws the javelin, plays gui-

tar, paints, is president of his school, and generally acts like

the kind of boy who will never find himself shuffling along

self-help book aisles. I thought some pine-scented, campfire-

smoked wisdom from Uncle Stevie might help prepare Eddie

for his freshman year of college.

But Iris? Would a backpacking trip help Iris? Iris is some-

what of a mystery. On one hand, she is already fairly hardy.

When she was five, in the dead of a frigid mountain winter,

she spent the better part of three months in a grass skirt and

a coconut bra and flip-flops. A year earlier, when she was

four, she had been informed by her older brother during

lunchtime that “Hey, Irie, you know where that hamburger

comes from? It comes from a cow. That’s right, you’re eating

a dead cow right now. Ha ha. Moo. Ha ha.”

“You’re stupid,” Iris had said, calm as a giant toad, then she

returned to her lunch, working over her burger, tearing at it

as the wild African spotted dog tears at the baby wildebeest.

“Mmmmm,” she said, smacking her lips, “cow meat!”

Recently, she has adopted some new favorite phrases.

One is “Seriously!” The other is “I’m very angry!” Uttered

together, the words have made adults weep. They are uttered

together now, after my sister has told me to shut up about the

Comanches, after Isaac has turned on me, after the blue-eyed

mountain beast has swallowed an entire chocolate bar, con-

sidered her surroundings, and delivered her crie d’estomac.

“S’mores!” the tiny omnivore howls. “I’m very angry!

Seriously!”

A MONTH BEFORE THE TRIP, I TELEPHONE MY SISTER

to get her in line with my plans for camping

above treeline.

“Mr. Comfort is going to push for something wimpy,”

I tell her. Mr. Comfort is my brother’s nickname, which he

earned over the years by, whenever backpacking, lugging two

pillows, fresh tomatoes, hammocks, a reclining chair, one or

two hardback books, salt and pepper shakers, and an extra-

long, inflatable air mattress. Mr. Comfort is a complicated man.

In his professional life, he is demanding and hyper-focused.

But he also finds a way to take a short nap every afternoon,

no matter his location or social obligations, or the value of the

stock market. He is implacable about this, but never overly

confrontational. He is like a combination of Rupert Murdoch,

Gandhi, and Yoda—but lazier. Lately, he has been lobbying

for hiking trips on which no hiking actually takes place, on

horses. “Or at least some llamas that could carry our stuff.”

“And Mr. Comfort is going to want to camp for only one

night. So you have to promise to stick with me on the plans,

OK? Two nights, Ice Lakes Basin. No horses or anything.”

“I’ll back you, but no ‘I Want My Liver’ story for the kids.”

“That’s not just a story; it’s a parable. It’s a powerful nar-

rative and…”

“No promise, no deal.”

Mr. Comfort and Eddie (Mrs. Comfort stays home) and

I all arrive at my sister’s in Durango,

Colorado, on a Monday afternoon in

early August. Over dinner, I review

the plans for the next day. I extol the

wonders of the Ice Lakes Basin, the

lunar splendor of the tundra-y land-

scape, its spongy beauty and stark,

annihilating isolation.

“I can hike up any mountain!” screams

Iris, who has just finished assaulting a

brick-sized piece of lasagna. “I’m like a

mountain goat! Seriously!”

After dinner, while everyone else

drives to a hot springs for a prehike soak, I recline on the

couch to read more about Ice Lakes, which I have never tech-

nically visited. When the group returns, I encourage everyone

to get a good night’s sleep, because we have an adventurous

three days ahead.

“Um, Steve,” my brother says, “actually, we’re not going in

I told my brother that I would not steal the chocolate when everyone else was sleeping, as I’d been accused of doing on previous family gatherings. Why couldn’t my relatives let go of the past?

*


When our mother asked what kind of

cake he was going to serve at his 50th

birthday party, he replied, “Why do

you want to know?” When, a few years

ago, at my shrink’s urging, I delivered a

10-minute soliloquy over the telephone

to Mr. Comfort, which I had written out

in advance, regarding the decades of

jealousy, resentment, admiration, and

love I had felt for him, and admitted

that sometimes I hadn’t expressed those

feelings in a way that demonstrated

ownership for my actions, and after

I had vowed to be more emotionally

transparent and kind as we moved into

middle age, he replied, “So noted.”)

“I can’t believe she lets Iris hold her

emotionally hostage,” I tell my brother.

“Mmmm-hmm,” Mr. Comfort replies.

“Children want boundaries,” I say,

tossing a bag of chips into the cart, then

steering toward the dairy section, where

I plan to get some whipped cream, in

case anyone needs a hot fudge sundae

to build strength on the night before we

hike in. “They need boundaries.”

“Uh-huh.”

tomorrow. And we’re not going to Ice

Berg Lake…”

“Ice Lakes Basin. Not Ice Berg Lake!

Ice Lakes Basin! ”

“Yeah, whatever. We’re going to hike

to Highland Mary Lake and stay one

night. It’s six not-too-steep miles, and

it’s got some nice, hilly campsites.”

“What?” I glare at my sister, who

won’t meet my eyes.

“It was her idea,” my brother says.

He has never shied from delivering

unpleasant truths.

“Iris doesn’t want to go tomorrow,”

my sister says. “She’s been on the go

for the past two weeks, and I don’t

want to fight with her in the morning.”

“She’s a seven-year-old!” is what I

want to say. “Make her go!” is what

I want to say. “That’s what mothers

do. They make their kids do things!

You think I wanted to walk to school

on rainy days when the worms were

crawling all over the sidewalks? You

think I wanted to eat mom’s tuna cas-

serole just because you liked it, or mow

the lawn, because Don was hogging

the rake? You think I liked that disgust-

ing bubble gum swill they called ice

cream at Baskin Robbins? You think I

liked it when mom brought you in for

my first-grade show-and-tell, when I

told her very clearly that I really would

have rather presented the giant, dead

caterpillar I had found in the backyard?

You think I liked that?”

But I say none of it. I think it,

though, I think it hard.

“So we’re only going for one night?” I

ask. “And we’re camping in the woods?”

What I mean is, “So the middle

child gets screwed again? So number

two son is ignored one more time, in

a lifetime of getting ignored? So good

old Uncle Stevie takes another one for

the fucking team?”

“I suspected you would be the one

to turn,” I say to Mr. Comfort the next

day, as we load up on trail mix, graham

crackers, and chocolate at a local gro-

cery store. “I didn’t think our sister was

going to stab me in the back.”

“Yeah, well,” Mr. Comfort says. (Over-

sharing is not one of my brother’s sins.

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“You know,” I say, “I was talking to

my shrink last week about the plight of

the forgotten child and…”

“Hey, Steve,” my brother says, “if

you’re planning to sneak the chocolate,

why don’t you just buy a few extra bars

this time? Save some drama.”

THE TRAILHEAD IS A HAPPY

place, filled with the prom-

ise of adventure and the

soothing properties of nature. I am

filled with optimism, as I usually am at

trailheads. I’m so filled with optimism

that I mention, yet again, how this

would be a beautiful day for a real

hike—to a glacial basin—and I reflect

on the spongy beauty of the tundra we

will not be climbing to.

“Give it a rest,” my sister says.

“It’s sad that your mom has no sense

of adventure,” I say to Isaac, who I still

think of as my ally, even though he

squealed about The Fingernail Mutant.

I consider forgiveness and generosity of

spirit to be two of my greatest strengths.

“You mean the kind of adventure

sense that inspired the Hanukkah

Ham?” Mr. Comfort asks.

“Is that like fancy holiday pig meat?”

Iris wants to know.

“Your Uncle Stevie is silly some-

times,” my sister says to her daughter.

“I’m a seeker,” I say. “Seekers seek.

When will everyone understand that?”

“How about seeking your backpack

and putting it on,” my sister says. “I

want to get in before dark. And it looks

like it might rain.”

Mr. Comfort triple-checks to

make sure all the chocolate bars are

accounted for, and then my sister’s boy-

friend announces that it’s time to go.

“Aren’t you forgetting something?”

I ask.

“What,” my sister says, “do you want

to complain some more?”

“Don’t you think we need to agree

on our trail names?”

“Why do we have to have trail

names?” Isaac asks.

“We have to have trail names

because of safety concerns, mostly,” I

explain. “Say we’re up at our Highland

Mary campsite, which is dangerous to

start with because of the hidden perils

lurking everywhere in the surrounding

forest, unlike at a campsite in a glacial

basin, where you can see everything.

Then a bear, or a mountain lion, or a

plague-carrying marmot attacks, and

someone cries for help. And say, for

example, I-dog, it’s you, so you yell,

‘Hey, Steve!’ or ‘Mom!’”

“Yeah?” Isaac asks. Attacks by wild

animals continue to captivate him. I

love my young nephew and our sacred

teaching moments. Sometimes I suspect

he might be a seeker, too.

“Well, who knows if there might be

other campsites near where we are, and

maybe there will be someone named

Steve there, and another mom, and

none of the adults will be absolutely

positive if it’s he or she who is being

screamed to, or someone else, and that

split second hesitation could spell the

difference between life and death.”

“And it would not be fun to find

yourself between the gaping jaws of a

grizzly!” says Eddie, who has already

*

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benefited from some sacred teaching

moments. “Not fun at all!”

“Seriously!” Iris says.

“That makes sense,” Isaac says. “It

really does. Mom, I think Uncle Stevie

is right on this.”

“Great,” my sister snarls. “Friggin’

awesome. Trail names. OK, let’s have

’em. Give us our goddamn trail names.”

Iris is, of course, Jaws. Mr. Comfort,

at Isaac’s insistence, will henceforth

be known as Dr. Comfort “because it

sounds cooler.” My sister’s boyfriend, a

weirdly calm and sweet-natured guy, is a

captain of the Durango Fire Department,

and hyper-efficient with power tools. He

is The Captain, obviously.

Eddie, at Isaac’s behest, will be

addressed as Hulk because his forearms

are the approximate size of well-fed

anacondas. I suggest The Professor for

Isaac, but he says he’d rather be Ice,

“because it sounds cooler.” I ignore my

sister’s proffering of “Piggy,” “Infant,”

and “SlowMo,” and accept Ice’s sug-

gestion: Java Junkie. (In efforts to self-

medicate my inclination to stillness and

over-philosophizing, I recently upped

my caffeine intake to nine cups a day.)

“What’s mom’s trail name?” Jaws asks.

“I think we’ll call your mom

Quisling,” I say.

“Quis what?” Ice asks.

“Well, children,” I tell them, as the

three of us share another sacred teach-

ing moment and, at my urging, a giant

bar of milk chocolate. “A long time ago,

when the Nazis were going to invade

Norway, one of the head Norwegians

kept promising all the nice people

there that he would fight the Nazis, and

the Norwegians believed him, because

they were nice, and they trusted people

when they made promises, because

that’s what nice, kind, decent people

do, but in secret the head Norwegian,

whose name was Quisling, was plot-

ting to give away the country to the

Nazis, who were really, really bad. So

when someone promises something,

like your mom promised Uncle Stevie,

but then betrays the person…”

“Fine,” my sister snaps. “I’m friggin’

Quisling. Now can we please get going,

because I’d like to have our camp set

up before dark. And I see clouds.”

At a mile and a half, I feel drizzle. I

had packed a lightweight water-resistant

jacket rather than a heavier water-

proof one because, as I explained to

Isaac during a sacred teaching moment,

“An experienced camper has to make

decisions every second, and it’s more

important to travel light than to bur-

den oneself, especially considering that

we’re not traveling to monsoon coun-

try.” After two miles, the drizzle has

turned to a steady downpour. Then the

downpour turns to hail, with thunder.

Then I, who happen to be about 20

yards ahead of everyone, reflecting on

the hard and lonely path of the seeker,

am almost struck by a jagged bolt of

lightning. It’s later alleged by some in

the group that I jumped in the air and

turned 180 degrees in one move. I

might have screamed, too. I scurry back

to the group. To my great displeasure,

the children are laughing.

“You jumped really high,” Jaws says.

We gather under a tree and discuss

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whether that’s such a good idea in

a lightning storm. But at least we’re

protected from the downpour, so we

stand, huddled into a tight group, not

talking, watching the lightning, listening

to the thunder. It’s cold, and at least one

of us is soaked. We crouch so closely

together that we’re touching.

When the rain stops, we resume

our trek, ending up an hour later at

the third of the Highland Mary Lakes,

a half-mile-long, 300-yard-wide smear

of shimmering blue. Ice and Hulk pitch

their tent in a protected spot with good

views of the lake, Quisling and the

Captain claim an area a little closer to

the rocky shore, and I suggest to my

brother that we spread our gear on a

nearby hilltop, because it seems the

safest spot around.

“Isn’t this where lightning will most

likely strike?” Dr. Comfort asks.

I explain to him that we’ll be able

to see any approaching predators, that

camping is all about tradeoffs and risk-

assessment. The CEO grunts. He’s even

quieter than usual. I know that he’s

worked the last 10 weekends, and that

his acid reflux and back pain have been

worsening, and that the college appli-

cations piling up on the dining room

table provide bittersweet reminders

that Eddie will soon be leaving home.

I suggest to Dr. Comfort that he might

be going through an important transi-

tional phase in his life, and perhaps if

he opened up a bit about his feelings,

he would feel better. He grunts again.

I look upward at what are now angry,

swollen clouds. I feel my eyes moisten.

I identify with the obese clouds. (My

nickname as a toddler was “butterball.”)

The dark clouds continue to gather.

AFTER OUR TENTS ARE SET

up, hammocks situated, a

kitchen area built, and gen-

eral campsite preparation taken care of,

the rain returns, so we all retire to our

tents. While Dr. Comfort sleeps, I listen

to the tapping of rain. A few minutes

after the tapping stops, Isaac opens the

tent zipper and sticks his head in.

“Java Junkie?” he says.

“Yes, Ice.”

“I think I heard a feral dog pack

down by the lake. I think they might be

getting ready to attack the camp!”

And so it comes to pass that Ice and

I “secure the perimeter,” which involves

peering toward the lake and throwing

rocks at bushes and, after making Ice

promise not to tell, splitting a chocolate

bar I steal from the group food bag.

After that we stroll down to the lake’s

edge, where we sit on a slab, stare into

the crepuscular gloom, and skip rocks.

“Junkie,” my nephew asks, between

throws, “do all criminals smoke?”

“I don’t think so.”

“In the movies, they seem to.”

“Good point, Ice. Maybe later, we’ll

try to make a list of history’s worst crim-

inals who didn’t smoke. I think Attila

the Hun didn’t smoke, for example.

And Jack the Ripper.”

“Oh, yeah, I remember when you

told me about him.”

“And Hitler. Don’t forget Hitler.”

“Cool,” he says. Then, “Junkie?”

“Yes, Ice.”

“What are the approximate chances

an asteroid will hit our campsite tonight?”

I skip a rock. I regard my philoso-

phizing nephew. My fellow seeker.

I tell him I consulted some cosmo-

logical websites and took some sextant

readings from New York City while I

was planning the trip, and that we’re

definitely safe here for the next day or

so, and then we skip some more rocks.

We throw stones in silence for a

while, and an hour later, the rain stops,

and we gather for dinner. Everyone but

Quisling, who, the Captain informs us,

is not feeling well. She’s suffering from

a headache and upset stomach.

The Captain heads out over the

soaked landscape on a doomed mis-

sion to gather wood, and Dr. Comfort

starts to work on dinner. That leaves

the children and me. I glance toward

the tent, estimate the distance, and

decide Quisling is likely out of earshot.

“Now, kids, you need to be really

quiet, and promise not to tell Mommy

the secrets I’m going to tell you tonight.

Do you know which tribe of Indians

was renowned for making torture an art

form, for how the tribe’s warriors could

strip a man’s flesh until all that was left

were nerve endings and eyeballs?”

“I think they’re called Native

Americans, Stevie,” Ice says.

*

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“His name is Java Junkie!” Jaws

says. “And you’re stupid! And I am

very angry. Very Angry!”

“Both of you are right,” I say.

“They are called Native Americans,

and because we’re in the wilderness,

it’s better to stick with our trail names.”

Then I tell them the terrible secrets

of the mighty Comanches, and my sister

threatens to throw the kids in my tent if

they have nightmares, and I tell the kids

that Mom is a little cranky sometimes.

“Dinner!” Dr. Comfort yells, and after

Jaws runs to her mother’s tent (where

she will also be sleeping), and reports

that Quisling will not be getting out

of the tent anytime soon, the rest of

us gather to eat Dr. Comfort’s noodles

with salami. Then Dr. Comfort boils

water for hot chocolate and distributes

it to the kids. I go off in search of

s’mores ingredients, and after conduct-

ing my first futile hunt for marshmal-

lows, I tell Dr. Comfort that I would

like some hot chocolate, too, so he

prepares me a cup. Only after I take a

gulp do I notice that the water he has

used for my hot chocolate is heating,

but not bubbling.

“Has this water boiled?” I ask.

“I think so,” Dr. Comfort says.

I take a seat and spend a few

moments envisioning the giardia and

other invisible but virulent bugs cur-

rently backstroking through my diges-

tive system. Then I notice the moonlight

is no longer so light. Clouds are massing

over our campsite again. The Captain

returns with a huge armful of wood,

which should make me feel grateful,

but instead sparks envy and anger that

he found wood in this misty hell.

I seek. I seek hard. Why do I so

seldom find?

My hands are shaking and I notice

myself stumbling and gasping more

than usual. Altitude? The cold? Jet lag?

Or the fastest case of water poisoning

ever? I still can’t remember where I

stuck the marshmallows. Will the kids

notice if we have marshmallow-less

dessert? Maybe the kids won’t remem…

“I WANT S’MORES!” Jaws screams.

“YOU PROMISED S’MORES!!!”

Finally, after Jaws feeds on some

chocolate, and screams some more, and

I find the marshmallows, we all settle

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around the now-blazing fire. I suggest

we join hands and pray to the mountain

gods to keep rain and predators away

tonight, because I think it’s good for

children to grow up with faith in some

sort of divine power. Then I get back to

the bloodthirsty Comanches.

As I settle into the story, the moon

rises across the lake and the wind dies

and the only sounds are the crackling of

the fire and the lapping of water on the

rocks. The moment feels sacred.

“Children,” I say, “I’m not sure I

should bring this up, because there

are grown-ups around who don’t think

you’re old enough to hear this story.”

“Sweet!” the Hulk says. “Is it time for

I Want My Liver?”

“I’m old enough, Uncle Stevie,” Iris

says. “Really, I am. Seriously!”

“OK, Jaws, but before I start the

story, everyone’s got to promise not to

tell Mom, OK?”

They agree and I reflect silently on

the subtle and varied types of trust one

encounters in life, and how my sister

might regard the telling of the “I Want

My Liver” tale as a technical violation of

the trust she has placed in me. I worry

about this for a second or two, then

I share the story of the well-meaning

but mischievous little Billy, his dead

and suddenly liver-less grandmother,

the bloody Swiss Army knife gripped

in little Billy’s sweaty fingers, and the

lessons we can all take from the tale.

Then we visit Quisling in her tent,

where Jaws mentions to her mom that

some Native Americans used to strip

flesh from their victims and maybe the

Native Americans used to camp right

here and my sister cuts me a nasty look,

and then we all retire for the evening. A

few hours later, I wake with a splitting

headache, an urge to puke, and a suspi-

cion that Dr. Comfort has poisoned me.

DAWN BREAKS CLEAR AND

chilly and damp. When I

stumble to the campfire, the

others are already finishing their gra-

nola. We wish Ice happy 11th birthday

and then Quisling, who is feeling bet-

ter, tells her son’s birth story, which

involves a yurt, a midwife, horrified

grandparents, and a lot of burning sage.

I sit on a rock, drinking coffee, next

to my brother and sister, watching their

offspring break camp.

“God,” my sister says, looking at

Hulk as he expertly disassembles a

tent, then shows Ice how it should be

packed. “I remember when Eddie was a

baby, just a mushy, smiling little lump.”

“Yep,” Dr. Comfort says. Is he

remembering the infancy of his strap-

ping son? Is he musing on the glory

of growing up, the tragedy of growing

old? Is he, I allow myself to wonder,

wishing he would have granted his

sensitive younger brother one measly

little trip to Velvet Freeze when we

were young? With Dr. Comfort, it’s hard

to know. But his face looks more slack

up here, more relaxed.

Iris sprints over the hills in her flip-

flops, chasing a butterfly. I wonder

if she’ll try to swallow it. Isaac’s and

Eddie’s heads touch as they roll the tent.

“I wonder what the boys are plot-

ting,” my sister says, and suddenly I

remember being Ice’s age, rolling up

sleeping bags and shooting marbles

and riding bikes to Kranson’s drug store

with Dr. Comfort, when he was still

called “Donnie,” both of us dispatched

there by our mother to buy her pack-

ages of Kent cigarettes. She was preg-

nant with Baby Quisling at the time,

and at the drugstore, my big brother

and I would drink grape soda and read

Hawkman and Green Lantern comic

books. I remember hearing grown-ups

call us “the boys” and my eyes sud-

denly start leaking.

“Are you OK?” Dr. Comfort asks.

The sun is shining but my view is

watery, soft-focus. Due to some back-

country miracle, I feel optimistic and

emotionally shattered at the same time.

My sister peers at my contorted face.

“Maybe he’s just overcome with terri-

ble guilt,” Quisling says, “because I’ll be

paying shrink bills for the next 20 years

while my children are having night-

mares about eyeball-eating Apaches.”

“Comanches,” I correct her, through

my tears, “and they didn’t eat the eye-

balls. They just stripped the fles…”

“Jesus Christ, Steve!” my sister shouts.

“You can be such…”

“What?” I ask.

“I mean, really, don’t you reali…”

“WHAT?”

*

She sighs. Her shoulders sag. But she

knows. Seekers seek.

“I mean, Jesus Christ, Java Junkie.”

“Thank you, Quisling,” I say, and

then it’s time to hike out.

HULK AND ICE LEAD THE WAY,

followed by a skipping,

trilling Jaws, then, hold-

ing hands, Quisling and The Captain.

Dr. Comfort comes next, and I follow,

regarding the group, thinking about

family camping trips in general, this trip

in particular, and my future. I wonder

if I might be happier if I moved to

Durango, living closer to women who

spend more time outside and less time

hunched over cell phones. I might

be able to contribute more to soci-

ety’s general good if I were intimately

involved in the day-to-day lives of Jaws

and Ice. I ponder the positive ways I

might help mold their characters. With

painstaking training, I believe Jaws

could be turned into an elite athlete,

or a highly paid professional assassin.

With enough sacred teaching moments,

I might help shape Ice into a critically

acclaimed novelist, or a cult leader.

My eyes start leaking again. I feel a

philosophical urge coming.

“Hey, Ann?” Ann is Quisling’s given

name. “Sorry I told the kids the ‘I Want

My Liver’ story. I know I promised.”

“Uh-huh.”

“You know, you were a pretty cute

baby,” I say. “I actually was glad Mom

brought you for show-and-tell that one

time. I know it wasn’t your fault I never

got to bring in my dead caterpillar.”

“Really? You forgive me for using

my two-month-old telepathic powers

to make Mom ruin your big first-grade

moment with your friggin’ dead cater-

pillar? Jesus, Steve, do you ever think

maybe you should fire your shrink?”

I know she doesn’t mean it. I know

that she’s a good sister, her shocking

treachery regarding the Ice Lakes Basin

notwithstanding, and a good mother,

even though she needs to crack down

more, especially on Iris.

By now I have caught up to Dr.

Comfort. “So,” I ask my brother, “what

was your absolute favorite moment of

the trip? The campfire? The s’mores?”

“When we were under the trees, in

the thunderstorm,” Dr. Comfort says,

which surprises me.

“Really?”

“It was a reminder of how powerless

we are in the face of nature,” he says,

“and how we just have to surrender to

it, and when we do, everything is all

right. It’s a reminder that we don’t have

to struggle so much.” It’s the longest

speech I have heard my brother make

in approximately three decades. It’s

also somewhat prophetic. After the trip,

he starts practicing yoga, stops fretting

over balance sheets on weekends, and

once, when my mother asks him what

they’ll be having for dinner on a night

when she is joining his family, he actu-

ally tells her.

We have been picking up our pace,

until we’re all hiking together.

“Quis?” I ask my sister. “How about

you? What was your favorite moment

of the trip?”

“Under the trees. Intimate, all

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together, and no one was complain-

ing.” (The outdoors and, I like to think,

our lightning-storm bonding work their

magic on Quisling, too. A few months

later, she and The Captain announce

plans to marry. I think I should get

more credit for the nuptials because I

proposed the camping expedition, but

that doesn’t happen. I’m working with

my shrink to let go of that resentment.)

“Ice?”

“Skipping rocks with you, learning

about Attila the Hun and Hit...”

I cough loudly.

“I mean, skipping rocks with you.”

“Hulk?”

“It was all cool.”

“Jaws?”

“S’mores!” cries the flesh-eating cherub.

Me? Has a camping trip with my clos-

est kin transformed me? I philosophize

about this when we arrive back in

Durango, at the house The Captain and

Quisling and the kids share. Inspired

by Dr. Comfort, who does the same, I

pad into an empty room and I lie down

and stare at the ceiling. What I see is

our cozy little campsite. What I hear is

the soft lapping of the mountain lake.

In the interest of efficient philoso-

phizing, I insert the earplugs I always

carry with me to family gatherings.

I stare at the ceiling some more.

Philosophizing with great intent, I return

to our campsite. It is the same place, but

it is different. Great, fat marshmallows

spill from easily accessible pouches. The

clouds are thin and wispy, not overweight,

and the children are well-behaved, and

everyone—even the adults—clamors for

the “I Want My Liver” tale. We recline on

spongy grass, happy and filled with love,

safe from predators, and the ground is soft

and we are in a glacial basin.

I hear a door slam, and the boys

shout. Then Iris screams that she’s hun-

gry. Seriously! I stuff my earplugs in a

little deeper and I put a pillow over my

eyes. I return to the magical campsite. I

seek the crackling fire, the family love,

the moonlit circle where marshmallows

are plentiful and forgotten children are

found, the hushed place where philoso-

phizers are exalted. I seek really hard.

Writer at Large Steve Friedman lives

all by himself in New York City.

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Continued from page 69

Killer Hike

does. We watch them disappear over

the next ridge.

That night we return empty-handed.

Ted is visibly pleased.

“Nothing killed today, fellas?” he

says. “What a shame.”

Centuries ago, kings employed

jesters to keep things lively and to

deliver hard truths in a nonthreatening

package. For Gator and me, Ted

plays the jester for our collective

conscience. He gives voice to the

inner hiker in both of us. All around

us, sportsmen speak of “harvesting”

deer, as if living creatures are barley.

Ted reminds us that we are, in fact,

killing animals.

Day three: Gator’s last chance at a deer. We decide to hit it hard, hunting

the Blue Mountains’ ponderosa pine

forests in the morning and working the

isolated Grande Ronde River breaks in

the afternoon.

At first light, Gator and I and Shaun

Bristol, who has joined us for the

morning, set up on the edge of a

Blue Mountain meadow. We’d seen

some does browsing in the field at

dusk the previous night, and figure

we might catch a buck among them

this morning. We lean against the

rough bark of the ponderosas, trying

to blend in and remain motionless.

If open-field hunting is all about

covering ground and flushing game,

forest hunting requires opposite

tactics: Hide and wait for the prey to

come to you. Or so we think. We’re

hunting for the first time without

Jennifer—a solo flight of sorts.

As Gator creeps forward for a better

view, a spear of meadow barley nails

him in the eye. “God damn,” he says,

pulling the barbs out of his eyelid.

“Um, guys…” Shaun is trying to get

our attention.

“Did you get it out?” I ask. Gator

shakes his head.

“Guys…” Shaun says. I look back at

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BACKPACKER (ISSN 0277-867X) is published nine times a year (January, March, April, May, June, August, September, October and November) by Cruz Bay Publishing, Inc., 475 Sansome St., Suite 850, San Francisco, CA 94111; subscriptions are $29.98 per year in the U.S., $42.98 CDN in Canada, $42.00 elsewhere (surface mail). Periodicals postage paid at San Francisco, CA and additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to BACKPACKER, PO Box 50022, Boulder, CO 80322-0022. GST #R122988611. BACKPACKER publications, including GearFinder®, Waypoints®, and Adventure Travel®, are registered trademarks of Cruz Bay Publishing, Inc. © 2008 Cruz Bay Publishing, Inc. All rights reserved. Volume 38, Issue 280, Number 8, October 2010. Subscribers: If the postal authorities alert us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within 2 years.

him. He points to two whitetail bucks quietly crossing the

road 20 yards behind us.

“You’ve got to be kidding me,” I say. The deer catch our

movement and bolt into the forest. I laugh at the thought of

Gator and me standing there, Jethro and Elmer Fudd, as our

prey fearlessly strolls by.

In the afternoon, we load our packs with food and water

and hitch a ride to the rim of the Grande Ronde River canyon.

The Grande Ronde, a tributary of the Snake, unwinds like

a curling ribbon through the Columbia Plateau near the

Oregon-Washington border. It’s world

famous for its steelhead, and the dry,

brushy ravines above the river are

prime habitat for deer, coyote, wild

turkey, chukar, black bear, elk, and

bighorn sheep.

We have a plan. Gator and I will

start about a quarter-mile apart at the

top of the rim, then pick our way

down in a V that meets at the bottom

of the ravine. I’ll flush the deer in

Gator’s direction.

As I heel plunge down the scab-land ravine, my eyes

scanning for movement, Gator in my periphery, a sort of

perfect moment comes over me. My own hunt is done.

Because I’ve already bagged my deer, I can relax and enjoy

the hike, the camaraderie, the strategy and cunning, the

suspense, and the pure joy of physical movement in the wild.

Gator, on the other hand, hunts with all the pressure and

anxiety of a live trigger. If you’re doing it right, hunting comes

with a huge responsibility. You’ve got to line up a good

shot, not carelessly wound the animal, not shoot something

illegal, not crack off an errant bullet that flies into a house a

half-mile away, and not kill your partner. It’s not that far from

mountain climbing, in fact. A certain amount of danger and

risk enhances the experience of moving across wild terrain. It

revs up your adrenaline and puts the senses on edge. Hunting

combines strategy, motion, experience, skill, and danger.

It does something else, too. By the end of our three-

day hunt, I feel like I’ve been given a fresh pair of eyes.

Landscapes that were once barren to me become lush and

vibrant, alive with life, crackling with possibility. Where once

I saw lowland scrub—white noise for a backpacker—now I

see a living habitat where rosehip bushes function as secret

deer beds. Blank hillsides aren’t blank at all; they’re terraced

with game trails. I see water and imagine the animals it might

draw. I start to think like a predator. To be perfectly frank,

hiking as a hunter is fun.

After a couple of hours, I’ve flushed only a doe and a

mangy coyote from the brush. Gator and I take a break. The

late-afternoon sun beats down, and we strip off layers.

“I don’t know if it’s in the cards for us today,” I say.

That’s when Gator spots the buck.

It’s just below us, in a dry creekbed: Mule deer, a buck

of unknown antler points. The deer takes off uphill, moving

over a ridge before Gator can get a look through the scope.

Gator scrambles across the creekbed and muscles up the

ravine. I follow for a while, but I’m in no shape to be chasing

uphill after a man who has climbed Rainier 190 times.

The buck keeps moving high. Gator follows. Over one

ridge, then another. I shadow them from below. Finally, Gator

peeks over the edge of the last ridge and puts the buck in his

crosshairs. The deer stares back at him.

“He was at an angle where his antlers lined up exactly

in a row,” Gator later tells me. “So

I couldn’t get a read on his points. I

couldn’t confirm that he was legal.”

They stood there like that, frozen for

a few moments. Then the deer turned.

Gator saw the antlers—a three-pointer,

legal—but the deer’s butt was angled

toward him. A lousy gut shot if he took

it. A wounded deer, the meat spoiled.

Plenty of hunters have pulled the

trigger in that situation.

Gator didn’t.

As the sun fades behind the canyon’s rim, we hike out

through an old apple orchard to a road beside the river.

There, Jennifer, Shaun, and Ted—a happy, relieved Ted—

greet us with a warm truck and cold beer.

“Well, what do you think of hunting now?” Jennifer

asks me.

“Harder than it looks,” I say. “But a hell of a lot of fun.”

“Are you going to become a hunter now, Bruce?” Ted asks.

It will take some time, some reflection, before I can answer

that question with any certainty. To do it right, hunting

requires long-term preparation. The payoffs, though, can’t

be expressed in antlers or meat. Hunting offered this lifelong

hiker an enriching and profound new way to interact with

the land. Different landscapes opened up to me. I’ve met the

Cabela’s crowd on their turf and, hopefully, shattered some

of their own stereotypes about fleece-wearing treehuggers.

So call me a hunter. I’ve got visitation rights with my rifle,

and if someone asks me to join his deer camp next season,

I just might grab it and go.

Bruce Barcott brought home 55 pounds of venison from this

hunt. He wrote about mapping his new home, Washington’s

Bainbridge Island, for the May 2010 issue.

Landscapes that

were once barren

to me become lush

and vibrant, alive

with life, crackling

with possibility.



TE

XT B

Y R

AC

HE

L K

IELY

Eye

Sky

+

Some 7,000 years ago, a volcano

erupted and collapsed on itself, form-

ing the caldera in which this lake now

sits. Originally and oh-so-imaginatively

named Deep Blue Lake by early gold

prospectors, this dazzling body of

water is about six miles wide and

nearly 2,000 feet deep. Can you name

the lake and the park it lies in?

1,852Total backcountry

permits issued by

the park in 2009

1Tally of places you

can legally swim

in the lake. You

access the spot via

a strenuous, 2.2-

mile round-trip hike

with 700 feet of

elevation gain.

38Average water tem-

perature, in degrees

Fahrenheit

1977Release date of a

B-list (OK, C-list)

horror flick about a

meteor that crashes

into this lake, caus-

ing a dinosaur to

hatch from a bur-

ied egg and start

feasting on locals

throughout this area

90Miles of hiking trails

in the park

38Price, in dollars, of

a boat ride to the

larger of the lake’s

two islands. The

764-vertical-foot

hike up the island’s

cinder cone reveals

a crater 300 feet

across and almost

100 feet deep.

Big Blue

in the

//////

WIN! Name this lake, and the park it’s in, for a chance to win a

Mountain Hardwear Hooded Compressor PL jacket (men’s and

women’s versions available). Go to backpacker.com/skyeye for

contest rules. Entries due by September 29.

AUGUST ISSUE ANSWER Grand Prismatic Spring, Yellowstone National Park WINNER Shawn Donahue, Redding, MA

Satellite image by GeoEye

30Number of Snickers

you can scarf to

replace the calo-

ries you’ll burn on

the park’s 33-mile

Pacific Crest Trail

segment

1949The last year the

lake’s surface com-

pletely froze

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Backpacker October 2010

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