ba (hons) footwear product design & development final ... · cow leathers are organically tanned...

ba (hons) footwear product design & development

final major project

euphemia a concept collection exploring sustainable product proposals for luxury footwear. materials, construction, aesthetic and product life have been examined and redesigned. the concept wedge icica relies on the princi-ple of modular construction and mechanical grip to replace glue. the result is a striking shoe with components which can be separated (and recycled/ biodegraded) post consumption.

materials have been heavily reconsidered and all cow leathers are organically tanned using traceable hides from british soil association certified organic cattle. exotics of fish and ostrich leg are sustainably sourced, a guaranteed meat industry by-product and produced in a tannery using naturally occuring geothermal enegergy. sole units are transparent bioresin, made from sustainable plant sources. even packaging is considered with bamboo fleece bags and embossed recycled boxes.

helen furber is a final year ba footwear product design student at cordwainers london college of fashion. following work experience including y-3/slvr adidas and nicholas kirkwood, the euphemia colllection marks the start of an independant design career and realisation of personal design goals.

NATURE MEETS TECHNOLOGY TO REDEFINE LUXURY

concept board

utilising sports footwear technology, original components were developed in collaboration with y-3 adidas. once modelled using cad software, components were then rapid prototyped and moulded. the result is a modular construction system which is both a more sustainable method of construction and a visually striking product.

detail & inspiration board

ICICA concept wedgemodular pin construction

component spec

component

noteslast:(SL) 1698 pointsole components:ic1contact:helen furbernotes:BIO RESIN CASTING3D MODEL #2

ICICA

fall/winter 11/12 PINBED AA SECTION

3D LAST BOTTOM GUAGE

6MM4MM

17MM

COMPONENT SPECIFICATION: PINBED

1mm allowance between pin bedand wedge for upper

structural pins

3d cad modelling

tooling construction

bioresin pinbed

organic leather sock upper

bioresin wedge

bioresin grips

photographs by david abrahams

concept wedge

modular pin constructionconcept wedge

with special thanks to every idividual and company who helped make this project a reality.

in particular:

nic galway (Y-3 adidas)leonid larianov (Y-3 adidas)sasha hoffman (Y-3 adidas)michelle houghton (Y-3 adidas)olga and her team (adidas)maurice taylor (adidas)kees van der graaf pawel wocial (studio van der graaf)david sweeney (industrial designer) peter hill (lcf digital fashion studio)philip delamore (lcf researcher)natalie fisher (stylist)david abrahams (photographer)ilona ludewig-mack (natureally leather)trever gill (that’s shoe biz)summeet bellara (iom3 materials technologist)oli (idc models)maj wiboe-engelmark, andy money & elliot raynerdavid saundersmy family for their hugely generous & never ending support

[email protected]+44 7531 027 433

www.Y-3.comwww.sahobfg.comwww.van-der-graaf.co.ukwww.davidsweeneydesign.comwww.fashion.arts.ac.uk/digital_fashion_studio.htmwww.davidabrahams.co.ukwww.natalie-fisher.co.ukwww.natureally.co.ukwww.iom3.orgwww.idc.uk.com

sponsored by:

sketchbook & development

sketchbook inspiration


primary consumer research


concept development


design development


rhino cad component development


rendered models of components & screenshots from animation


component

notes

component

last:(SL) 1698 point

sole components:ic1

contact:helen furber

notes:

LEATHER COLOUR TO MATCH LINING

ICICA

fall/winter 11/12

COMPONENT SPECIFICATION: LEATHER INSOLE

PINBED

MOULDED INSOLE

AA SECTION C SECTION

INSOLE FITS DIRECTLY

TO THE LAST.

5MM

1MM

LAST

HELEN FURBER

EMBOSSED LOGO

20MM

15MM

10MM

5MM

3MM

BEVED, POLISEHD EDGES

component

notes


sole components:ic1


notes:

BIO RESIN CASTING

3D MODEL #2

ICICA

fall/winter 11/12PINBED AA SECTION

3D LAST BOTTOM GUAGE

6MM

4MM

17MM

COMPONENT SPECIFICATION: PINBED

1mm allowance

between pin bed

and wedge for upper

structural pins

component

notes

component


sole components:ic1


notes:

ICICA

fall/winter 11/12cow/chiffon

upper

cow nubuck

lining

ostrich

toe/binding

cow nubuck

foxing

COMPONENT SPECIFICATION: UPPER

WHITE SHOE

BLACK SHOE

cow

upper

cow

lining

ostrich

toe/wings

cow

foxing

5mm ostrich leather

sports binding

chiffon rushed upper

fitted to nubuck cow upper

single upper piece with

no back seamstitch & turn on all

seams unless otherwise stated

stitch & turn on all

seams unless otherwise stated

trimmed lining

ostrich leg toe cap

cut with scales diminishing

ostrich leg toe cap


ykk stainless steel

double ended stretch zip

3/4 reveal stitch

and turn on topline

stitch & turn cow leather upper

ostrich leg counter,


stitch & turn lining

ykk stainless steel

double ended stretch zip

notes

component

notes


sole components:ic1


notes:

BIO RESIN CASTING

3D MODEL #2

ICICA

fall/winter 11/12REAR PERSPECTIVEAA SECTIONFRONT PERSPECTIVE

HEEL GRIPWEDGE SOLEFOREPART GRIP

COMPONENT SPECIFICATION: WEDGE & GRIPS

B

B

C

C

D

D

CROSS SECTIONS

9MM

9MM

9MM

25MM50MM

3MM

50MM

60MM

53MM

35MM

25MM

1MM

13MM

25MM

15MM

40MM

35MM

1mm

47MM

60MM

35MM

(BA) Hons Product Design and Development for the Fashion Industries:

Cordwainers Footwear

Year 4: (2009/10)

FUR06184972

concept

development

helen furber

pddfi final year 1

helen furber concept development

1.introduction

Q: “Do you think that eco luxury has a future?” A: “I think that’s an investment opportunity!” -Martin

Raymond, co-founder of The Future Laboratory & editor of Viewpoint Magazine (Appendix 3)

This report investigates the current state of the Luxury Footwear Market and niche but expanding

Ethical Fashion Market; exploring a potential hybrid business opportunity.

Research concentrates on the European luxury goods sector with London a key focus and centre

for research.

2.executive summary

In a new-found era of frugality, the Luxury Goods Market must respond to new consumer

attitudes towards consumption, addressing both the design of products aesthetically, and their

business practise. Products must offer value in a truly luxurious sense: Experience, Quality,

Craftsmanship, and increasingly sustainability.

Despite the economic downturn ethics is still high on the social agenda and consumers expect

companies to tackle the problems for them, via product and business innovation. Luxury

consumers are concerned about social responsibility, and will expect it to be addressed.

A significant business opportunity has presented itself with the discovery of a viable Organic leather

supplier. No other ethical or luxury brand currently uses Soil Association Certified Organic leather in their

products.

Stella McCartney is the only established global luxury brand to have clearly adopted an ethical stance

towards fashion, and to be utilising Organic and Sustainable materials within collections. Within footwear,

all products are Vegan and do not use leather or animal products. However luxury consumers consider

leather a sign of product quality; Organic leather would be a way to capture the socially responsible luxury

consumer who still wishes to consume leather goods. It’s an untapped market and could prove lucrative.

Ethical or not, Design and Quality are the number one factors when purchasing luxury footwear. Innovation

in design aesthetics as well as sustainability must be undertaken to capture the market.

3.methodology

Research Methodology incorporated Primary and Secondary research findings in both the Luxury

Footwear and Ethical/Organic Sectors. Consumers and Industry figures from both sectors were

consulted.

3.1 primary research

i. consumer

Original quantitative and qualitative Consumer research was undertaken in London in September

2009 and targeted two main consumer groups: Existing Organic Food Consumers and existing

Luxury Goods Consumers.

pddfi final year 2


Organic Consumers

Forty Organic Food consumers were targeted at multiple establishments selling Organic

meat/groceries/food across London. Locations were selected from East to West and were

chosen to include different levels of affluence in order to establish differing attitudes and

spending habits. Consumers took part in a questionnaire (Appendix 13) which aimed to establish

attitudes towards organic meat consumption, the reaction to (proposed) organic leather and

gain an insight into current footwear spending habits and lifestyle.

Surveys were conducted at different times in the day to include those in full-time working

professions, and in differing locations across London to gain an insight into attitudes across

different wealth categories.

Luxury Goods Consumers

Luxury goods consumers were targeted at established luxury department stores across London

including Harrods, Harvey Nichols, Selfridges and Dover Street Market. Due to the difficulty in

engaging luxury consumers, six participants took part in an extended questionnaire (Appendix 7)

and informal interview, which aimed to establish current spending habits in luxury footwear,

general lifestyle/affluence, and attitudes towards ethical fashion, organic meat and organic

leather.

24 hour consumer snapshot: Willing participants were given a disposable camera and invited to

record their personal lives and surroundings over a 24 hour period. This was collected and used

to create a visual profile of the consumer from their perspective (see sketchbook) culminating in

a visual consumer profile (Appendix 19)

ii. industry

Luxury

Industry contact was initiated at the London College of Fashion “2010 Future Trend Webinar”

(Appendix 3) hosted by Martin Raymond (The Future Laboratory, Editor Viewpoint Magazine), Tony Glenville (Colour Analyst and Fashion Journalist) and Jane Kellock (WGSN Senior Trend Analyst). Informal trade research was also undertaken at various opportunities including London

Fashion Week Sep 09, Dover Street Market, Harrods and Y-3 adidas/Nicholas Kirkwood

internships.

Ethical/Organic

Industry contact in the Ethical Fashion sector was initiated with the attendance of a Forum at the

V&A (Fashion Matters: Ethics in Fashion) hosted by Sarah Ratty (Ethical Fashion Label Ciel Founder/Designer), Matilda Lee (Journalist – The Ecologist) and Christian Kemp Lewis (CEO of EDUN) (Appendix). Ethical Retailer Equa (London) was also interviewed (Appendix). Informal

trade and consumer research was also undertaken at the “Underground Ethical Catwalk”

(London) September 2009 (See Appendix 10).

3.2 secondary research

Desk research was undertaken using Mintel Market Reports, Verdict Market Reports, WGSN Trend

Prediction, Fashion Industry Press, International Press, Independent Organisations from specific

fields (e.g The Luxury Institute, The Soil Association), consumer and trade association statistics

and government statistics.

“Culture Brailing” and “Viral Networking” techniques (Raymond, 2003) such as blog interaction

and the 24-hour consumer snapshot (see Primary Consumer research) were also adopted in

order to gain a more tactile insight into consumer and market feelings, and allow interaction

“rather than reaction”

pddfi final year 3


4. luxury goods market

4.1 global market summary

“The definition of luxury goods is changing as consumers demand more from them... One cannot deny that the luxury industry is at a defining moment in its history.” (Luxury Institute, 2009)

The Global Luxury Goods Market equated to €224.5bn globally in 2008 (Verdict, June 2009).

Prior to the Financial Crisis (See appendix 1, 1.I) Luxury was thriving with LVMH CEO Bernard

Arnault predicting “explosive growth over the next five years” in 2007 (Brown. 2007). However by

February 2009 many luxury brands recorded double digit losses in the fourth quarter of 2008

(retailerdaily.com 2009).

i. regional markets

Regional markets occupy different stages of maturity (see 1.II/appendix 1,) with Europe the

market leader - worth €86bn and 38% of global spend (Verdict 2009). This report will focus on

the European market as a market leader in innovation and the proposed footwear concept would

launch from London.

ii. wealth/socio-economics

“Luxury is no longer a single-tiered proposition” (The Future Laboratory, 2007).

Luxury consumers are generally high wealth consumers and can be divided into wealth groups:

HNWIs, (High New Worth Individuals) UHNWIs (Ultra High Net Worth Individuals) and NMAs (New Mass

Affluents), and “Aspirational”. (see 1. III/appendix 1).

Adopting the ACORN classification system (caci 2003), luxury consumers would fit into the ABC1

categories of “Wealthy Executives”, “Affluent Greys” and “Flourishing Families” (See Appendix 2).

4.2 factors affecting the luxury goods market

i. financial

Following the effects of the 2008 financial crisis global economies and wealth have changed with

dramatic consequence for luxury goods. (See IV/Appendix 1)

Reduction in global wealth

Global GDP dropped 1.9% at the end of 2008 to 2%, (Merrill Lynch 2009). At the end of 2008,

the world’s population of high net worth individuals (HNWIs) was down14.9% from the year

before, while their wealth had dropped 19.5%. (Merill Lynch 2009).

ii. social/cultural

frugality

The wake of the financial crisis has left many European countries in recession, which has

severely affected consumer confidence in spending. 2008 saw “frugality come to the fore” (Verdict, June 2009) with cconsulting group Bain & Co. declaring consumers are now suffering

from “luxury shame” - delaying the recovery of the luxury-goods industry (Passariello 2009).

Luxury retailers report that consumers are now looking for products to last longer than for a short

season, (Verdict June 2009) signalling a move away from the “fast fashion of recent years”, a

pddfi final year 4


feeling echoed by industry. At the 2008 WWD summit, Alber Ebaz (Lanvin Creative Director)

declared, “Why is it that we sell fur coats in June and a bathing suit in January? .. I think that it’s time to go back to the essence. It’s time to start reflecting.” (WWD 2008 p10)

A spending slowdown means that luxury brands have to work harder to convince consumers to

buy. As a backlash to the lower quality, entry price offerings luxury brands had been capitalizing

on with aspirational consumers, the truly wealthy are likely to look for quality, subtlety, and “embark on a move to understatement” (Verdict, June 2009).

“People are looking for lasting quality not throwaway. Think of heirlooms. Luxury should be like buying a new heirloom. Something that employs real craftspeople” - Tony Glenville

(appendix 4)

Innovation in fashion communication

The opening up of a trade event to consumers, a move away from the traditional catwalk format and the blurring of seasonal collections, were key strategic approaches to emerge from the recent round of fashion weeks.” (Rumsay, 2009)

Following the effects of recession, designers downsized and many explored new ways to

showcase collections. The increasing adoption of the internet in both luxury retailing and

communication (e.g. blogs and live catwalk show streaming like Alexander McQueen SS10)

mean that the public now have instant access to collections and designers are adopting it as a

means of interaction. Rodarte designers Kate and Laura Mulleavy, recently invited 13 year old

blogger Tavi Gevinson to their catwalk show and Marc Jacob’s famously named a bag after

blogger bryanboy, (Rosman 2009) catapulting him to fame and signalling widespread

acceptance of bloggers as a respected group within the industry.

In order to maintain exclusivity and still appeal to the wealthy consumer, luxury brands will have

to formulate new strategies to evolve their business and communication with customers, as well

as innovating in product development to distinguish themselves from new players. Online retail is

a necessity for any luxury brands that previously rejected it.

considerate consumption: “eco” and social responsibility

“A resounding 35% [of affluent Britains]say their high income makes them more responsible and socially and ethically aware” (Futures Laboratory 2008 p.18)

With the media spotlight on sustainability, and social conscience, the public are increasingly

concerned about where products are manufactured, materials they are made from, and how much

they consume (Verdict July 2007). In a recent White Paper, The Luxury Institute stated,

“For luxury goods that are not a necessity, it will be especially critical to prove social responsibility at the highest levels.” (Luxury Institute 2009 p. 18).

Tom Ford speaking at the 2007 IHT Luxury conference declared, "Luxury is not going out of style. It needs to change its style.. We need to replace hollow with deep.”

4.3 luxury footwear

Fashion/Clothing is the largest sector in luxury goods and in 2008 generated approximately

€96.3bn (Verdict, June 2009). Within Fashion/Clothing, Handbags and Shoes (Accessories) are

lucrative - where “accessories often generate a disproportionate share of [collection] profits.”

(Verdict, June 2009). Mintel Predicts, “As it-bag fatigue sets in. Shoes, or watches and jewellery are seen as the likely heirs”. (Mintel 2008).

pddfi final year 5


The majority of luxury footwear offerings are from established apparel brands who have

diversified. There are however a number of key footwear-specific companies – often heritage

brands – who have established themselves in the ready-to-wear market (e.g. Christian

Louboutin, Salvatore Ferragamo) and a rising number of new key players (Nicholas Kirkwood,

Camilla Skovgaard. Brand positioning analysed market prominence, against price and design

aesthetic (Appendix 4)

i. consumer research

Primary market research in luxury footwear was undertaken in September 2009. (See

Methodology 3.1 I). Research Analysis (Appendix 5), Research Raw Data (Appendix 6).

Key Findings:

Two core consumer groups were established: “Experimentals” and “Settleds” (See

Appendix 5: 9)

100% of Experimental consumers shopped at least once a week, travel frequently “for

recreation” (despite the recession), spend on average £250 - £500 per pair of shoes and

buy 1 –2 pairs per month (see Appendix 5: 7.8,10). They were typically younger

consumers, aged 20 – 27, living alone, and favouring more avant-garde design.

“Settled” consumers were at a later “life-stage”, all were married, all had children, and

all said they shopped “Once a month” or “When I have time”. They tended to prefer

more traditional design aesthetics, for example from brands like Prada and Brian

Atwood. (Appendix _ 1-7, 9).

When purchasing footwear, Design and Quality were the most important factors between

both consumer groups. (See Appendix 5: 11)

Whilst only 33% of consumers already purchase “ethical/organic” fashion, of those that

don’t at least 50% commented that they would buy more if there were more

choice/better quality available. (See Appendix, 5:12)

4.4 key outcomes

“Women are not going to stop shopping; they are going to shop differently” Albar Elbaz (WWD,

2008 p12)

Entering an era of “conscious consumption”, luxury goods must respond to consumer attitudes

and newly raised expectations, addressing both the design of products and their business

practise.

Products must offer value in a luxury sense: Experience, Quality, Craftsmanship, and provide the

luxury consumer with the solution they are looking for.

In a business which relies on traditional practises and heritage, brands must learn to react to

new consumer behaviour and technology quickly, and embrace it - as opposed to resisting it as

previously – in order to remain competitive.

Luxury consumers are concerned about social responsibility and will increasingly expect it to be

addressed.

pddfi final year 6


5. ethical & organic market

For the purpose of this report, Ethical products are products which take into consideration the impact

of production on the environment and those manufacturing them.

Organic refers to “produce and other ingredients grown without the use of pesticides, synthetic fertilizers, sewage sludge, genetically modified organisms, or ionizing radiation. Animals that produce meat, poultry, eggs, and dairy products do not take antibiotics or growth hormones.” (organic.org 2009)

5.1 green is here to stay

“Household expenditure on ethical goods and services has almost doubled in the past five years: an increase of 81%” (Co-Operative Bank 2007 p.5)

In response to the growing concern over climate change, environmental and ethical issues have been

pressed upon consumers by the media, governments and society at large: “Across eight separate indicators, between 1999 and 2007, UK consumers, across all age groups, reported an increased predisposition to ethical behaviours” (Co-Operative Bank 2007 p4).

“Consumers want a more sustainable approach. A higher global awareness of issues has made it increasingly appropriate for companies to invest in more ethical processes and sustainability.” - Paul Taylor Senior apparel designer, Puma. (Drapers, 2009)

5.2 market summary

“Six per cent of the UK adult population (2.8 million people) are committed ethical consumers, shopping for ethical products and services every week” (Co-Operative Bank 2007 p3). The overall Ethical market in the UK was worth £32.3bn in 2007, an increase of 9% on 2006.

(Co-Operative Bank 2007 p4). The market can broadly be segmented as follows: Ethical food

and drink, Eco-travel and Transport, Ethical Personal Products, Community and Ethical Finance.

Despite the recession forcing people to curb spending on Organic products, Ipmost Moris

Research reports the underlying reasons for a shift in “considerate consumption” still exist, and

that “as of September [2008], three-quarters of the British public say it is more important for a company to be responsible in tough economic times," (Davies 2009).

i. ethical fashion

“I think the consumer has to act responsibly in terms of the things he or she buys, and to start limiting the demand on products that are environmentally unfriendly.” – Stella McCartney (Lee 2009)

There are four main facets of ethical fashion:

1. “Sustainable” Materials: Materials considered more environmentally friendly, often

adopting plant-based fibres, sometimes Organic (particularly where cotton is concerned)

and avoiding the use of ecologically damaging dyes/finishing products.

2. Recycled: “Up-cycling” or the re-use of existing garments/textiles into new products.

3. Ethical/Fair-trade supply chain: Ensuring manufacture of products does not exploit those

producing raw material/manufacturing final products.

4. Product Life-cycle: Addressing the life-cycle of the product and the effects of its

disposal after consumption.

pddfi final year 7


Fashion brands (such as Tom’s shoes or Merci in Paris) are also increasingly developing

business strategies based around Philanthropic retailing.

Despite being a small market, “non-ethical high street leaders including H&M, Topshop, and

Marks & Spencer, recently launched Organic Cotton ranges. Organic and ethical ranges can be

seen as a way of adding value in the same way designer and celebrity ranges have previously,

convincing the frugal to spend. However Martin Raymond warns, “At the moment “eco” is stuck onto a product to try and sell. Ultimately brands will have to do it to exist.” (Appendix 3)

5.3 ethical footwear

i. market overview

(Brand Positioning Analysis: Appendix 8)

The ethical footwear market is still a relatively niche market. Few ethical footwear brands have

broken into the mainstream, and Stella McCartney is the only luxury brand to offer vegan

footwear (September 2009). “Ethical” footwear is used to describe many different approaches to

responsibility in footwear manufacturing, with the main category being Vegan/Vegetarian

footwear: Footwear made without the use of leather or animal products. (For Overview of the

Leather Industry and Issues in the Market see Appendix 9)

Increasingly other approaches have been adopted such as that of PoZu, who make

biodegradable slippers, Hetty Rose who makes bespoke footwear from recycled textiles and

many companies incorporating more sustainable materials such as recycled plastic, rubber,

organic, cotton and hemp etc. in products.

iii organic consumer research

Q: “So do you find it hard to find [vegan] shoes you like then?” A: “Yeah they tend to be really old looking or just awful! That’s why I just buy the plastic ones” (Vegan consumer insight – Underground ethical

catwalk 2009 (Appendix)

Research into the Organic meat and ethical fashion consumer markets was undertaken in

London in September 2009 (See Methodology 3.1 I).

Key Findings:

The largest age categories were the younger categories suggesting younger but financially secure consumers are the main Organic consumers. (See Appendix :1) The consumption of

Organic meat reduced according to affluence, signalled by Postcode. (See Appendix 20)

Main reasons for Organic meat consumption were for quality of meat (32%) followed by

welfare (27%) with 31% buying “most of the time”, and 24% “ every time”.

80% said they would but interested in Organic leather products if they were available with

the remaining 20% citing high price as a deterrent.

67.5% of Organic meat consumers do not currently buy ethical fashion, believing it to be

“old-looking”, “ugly” and “overpriced”, so design is still key.

When purchasing footwear, Quality and Comfort (both 72.5%) were the most important

factors, followed by Price (70%) and Design (60%).

5.4 key outcome

Despite buying Organic meat, consumers did not want to pay more for Organic footwear.

pddfi final year 8


i.the future of luxury is considered consumption.

100% of luxury consumers surveyed agreed they would buy Organic Leather products if the

Quality and Design were of a high enough standard; “there simply is nothing available!”

The Soil Association (SA) is the British body for certifying Organic Products. SA Organic

certification for animals means that besides the prohibited administration of hormones and

antibiotics (given to cattle), “animal cruelty is prohibited and a truly free-range life for farm animals is guaranteed”. SA standards, “rigorously protect all aspects of animal well-being - from rearing, feeding and shelter, to transportation and slaughter.”

As of September 2009, Natureally is the only tannery producing hides which could viably go into

production of footwear, traceably sourced from UK Soil Association Certified British beef cattle.

Skins are tanned using a Vegetable Tanning process (adopting the use of vegetable extracts as

opposed to chrome chemicals) in a German tannery, which is certified free of harmful

substances by German certification TUV (www.natureally.co.uk/origin).

6. concept proposal

We’re not trying to understand what the customer wants, but to bring our customers into our world, to convince them via the product.” Patrick Tomas, President, Hermès. (Lucian, 2009 p.14)

6.1 summary

Following analysis of the ethical and luxury goods markets, an overlapping business opportunity

has been identified. Luxury consumers are trying to be more socially responsible, but cannot find

satisfactory products. The current Ethical footwear offerings do not compete with offerings in the

luxury footwear sector; the market is unchallenged.

As yet, no ethical or luxury brand has adopted the use of certified organic leather in their

products. Essentially, this is an entirely new market opportunity.

The cradle-to-cradle mindset in developing products and businesses must be adopted. Product

innovation and business will be designed to be as environmentally friendly as possible, and take

a clear stance on social responsibility. The life-cycle of products must be considered at the

design phase.

Innovation will be pushed forward with the use of rapid prototyping technology to explore new

methods of construction, simultaneously enhancing functionality, comfort and design aesthetics.

6.2 concept

i. technological innovation

“Design = Bottom Line. It’s not about pretty shapes, but about the function of those shapes. It’s not about technology but about how high tech is applied through the product for the consumers use.” Bruce Nusbaum. (Myerson, 2001 p.51)

There appears to be an opportunity for technology such as Rapid Prototyping/Smart Materials

adopted in the development of performance footwear to be applied to high-fashion footwear,

enhancing form and function. Y-3 (adidas) was the first brand to bridge the gap between sports

and fashion, and Balenciaga is possibly the only luxury brand exploring these processes in any

real depth. If technology could be utilised to enhance comfort or create bespoke elements in

http://www.natureally.co.uk/origin

pddfi final year 9


footwear, this could prove lucrative. The aesthetics of heritage adidas products and their crude

development is inspiring to explore, and combined with luxurious materials and a considered

approach to design should create a unique, avante-guard product (see initial visual concept

board: Appendix 15)

ii. organic/”ethical” leather

Consumers purchase Organic meat, why can’t they purchase Organic Leather?.. Whilst many consider leather to be unethical, luxury consumers are unwilling to give up it up (See

Appendix _, 12). Organic leather could bridge the gap between responsibility and luxury.

Upper, lining and sole bend leathers will be sourced from Natureally, offering a luxury product

using truly humanely and sustainably sourced leathers.

To supplement the demand for exotic skins which are often adopted in the luxury industry – and

which are wholly unethical – veg-tanned fish skin will be adopted. A by-product of the food

industry, Atlantic leathers is a small Icelandic tannery which sources skins from sustainable fish

stock killed for food and tans them using traditional vegetable tanning methods. Water use

(profuse in tanning) is sourced from a natural geothermal resource and electricity from a hydro-

electric power station. (www.atlanticleather.is)

iii. sustainability concept

“Your products should not be compromised in any way just because they’re environmentally friendly.”- Stella McCartney (Lee, M. 2009)

Upper

Outside of leather, any upper materials will be responsibly sourced. Triple layer warp knit mesh,

(most commonly found in sports performance shoes) will be developed using post-consumer

recycled PET, in bespoke panelling being both a functional and striking feature of the shoes. Any

Synthetic upper materials will also be sourced from recycled PET and kept to a minimum. Any

natural-fibre based materials will be organic.

Components

Internal components will be recycled where possible, for example insole boards (if used), and

any glues will be water based as opposed to solvent based.

Product Lifecycle

Where possible, research into product lifecycle will be undertaken, however as the nature of

luxury goods is that of longevity, more weight will be given to sustainable sourcing.

Packaging

Packaging will also be considered and recycled board for shoe boxes sourced to a high enough

quality. Footwear dust-bags will utilise organic cotton.

6.3 market strategy

i. usp

Technological Innovation + Organic Leather + Sustainability.. No other luxury brand has more

than one element at present.

ii. tows – strategic audit

TOWS analysis “allows the entrepreneur to design strategic solutions to the information discovered through SWOT analysis.” (Gundry & Kickell 2007 p.41). TOWS analysis of the

concept proposal was undertaken and strategies for success explored. (See Appendix 16)

pddfi final year 10


iii. gap analysis

Brand positioning was explored with a gap analysis (Appendix 17). With no other direct

competitor in the Organic Leather Market, the potential for positioning is completely open.

Innovation and avante-guard design aesthetic was a key driver for the luxury consumers

surveyed, and remains central to the concept proposal. The exploration of rapid prototyping

techniques to explore new ways of innovation in construction, aiding comfort, functionality and

sustainable manufacturing will be a key aspect of design and a further USP. For that reason no

direct positioning has been established as no other brand is currently doing this - rather an

indication of where the brand might sit with competitors. Main Competitor Brands were analysed

individually. (see Appendix 18).

6.4 consumer

Following the outcome of consumer research, two core consumer groups were established.

Based on preference for avante-guard design, The Experimental Consumer group will be

targeted:

“experimental” Consumer Profile (appendix 19):

ACORN ABC1 classification/Parent ABC1

Aged 20 – 27

Lives Alone/Rents

Single/Partner but not Married

High Disposable Income

Working a well- paid job/affluent family

Well Educated

[Fashion]Shops at least once a week

Follows Fashion: Magazines, Blogs, Shops for real catwalk pieces

Looks for unique pieces (hence likes vintage)/avante-guard design

Mixes uber lux with high street cool, e.g. Converse/Hunter Wellies/Balenciaga in one

photo

Invests in health: Selective with food choices, buys Organic, high spend on beauty

products/cosmetics

Buys luxury at all levels from Groceries to toiletries/cosmetics as well as fashion

Values Design/Quality the most but increasingly considers ethics

6.5 further considerations

Product Mix/Range Planning

The range will consist of flat and heeled shoes for women. A balance between wearable and

more editorial/conceptual pieces will be met to ensure that press attention is gained and the

brand is firmly positioned in the luxury arena.

Price

Price will be high to position the brand in the luxury market and to cover the significantly more

expensive cost of Organic leather.

Place

Product will be launched in London and would initially retail through exclusive department store

channels/online to align the product with established luxury.

Manufacture

Manufacture would take place in Italy to ensure high quality and for intrinsic value of “Made in

Italy”.

pddfi final year 11


Marketing

Clear communication of brand values is imperative, as well as honesty and clarity in supply

chain. Following initial sampling a website would be developed and stylists/press consulted. Full

range development and sampling would take place in time for London Fashion Week October

2010. Showcasing of the shoes would be intended (possible alliance with newly launched “Eco-

Couture” brand Ada Zanditon one opportunity).

Depending on success an alternative approach might be to develop the range as a

diffusion/expansion of an existing luxury brand such as Balenciaga who has not yet approached

an ethical collection.

Advertising

Initial promotion of the brand would be via courting Fashion Press to establish the product on the

market.

Brand Appeal Focus Group

A focus group will be held with luxury consumers following development of branding ideas to

ensure correct identity is built.

Project Critical Path

(See Appendix)

6.6 conclusion

With the strategic launch of a luxury footwear range utilising Soil Association Certified Organic

Leather, technological innovation and a sustainable approach to luxury, demand for considered

products in the luxury footwear market will be met and the market seized.

pddfi final year 12


appendices

pddfi final year 13


appendix 1

global luxury goods detailed

market analysis

market overview

“The definition of luxury goods is changing as consumers demand more from them... One cannot deny that the luxury industry is at a defining moment in its history.” (Luxury Institute, July 2009)

Luxury Goods, or “High-end non-food products” (Verdict, June 2009), with an “intrinsic value

which is not material, but linked to the evocative brand image”, (Euromonitor International,

November 2001) “are sold in selective distribution outlets with specific designs, creativity and

value that make the items unique.” (Euromonitor International, November 2001). The Global

luxury goods market equated to €224.5bn globally in 2008 (Verdict, June 2009).

i. recession

Summary

Turbulance in the US econonomy, the US housing downturn and the September 2008 collapse of

Lehmen Brothers bank sparked a wall-street upheaval which developed into what’s termed the

global “fincial crisis” towards the end of 2008. This precipitated a global recession with the US

declaring “[The] Economy began shrinking in December 2007” (MSNBC 2008) December 2008,

and the UK entering recession in January 2009 (BBC 2009). Consumer confidence dried up and

disposable income evaporated.

Prior to the Financial Crisis the Global Luxury Goods Market was thriving with LVMH CEO Bernard

Arnault predicting “explosive growth over the next five years” in 2007 (Brown, J. 2007). 17th

October 2008 The Daily Telegraph headline read “Financial crisis: Luxury brands boom as rich fly to quality” (Fellowes, J. 2008) however by February 2009 many luxury brands recorded double

digit losses in the fourth quarter of 2008 (retailerdaily.com 2009).

ii. regional markets

Regional Markets occupy different stages of maturity and for the purpose of this report Verdict

(June 2009) Market divisions have been adopted:

1. Europe, including Russia and all countries on the European continent

2. The Americas: primarily the USA

3. Japan

4. Asia Pacific: China, India, and Australasia

5. Middle East and Others: primarily the Middle East

Europe

€86bn

38% of global spend.

Established as the home of luxury; the majority of luxury brands originate in Europe, where three

of the four “Big” Fashion Weeks (London, Paris, Milan) take place. Despite the IMF forecasting

pddfi final year 14


dramatic annual decline in Euro GDP (-14.3%) in 2009 & 11.5% unemployment for 2010

(Verdict 2009) Europe remains the largest regional market, possibly compensated by high levels

of tourism.

Americas

€56.9bn 25% of global spend

Home to the final “Big” Fashion Week (New York) the US luxury market was hit heavily by the

recession, and suffered “a sharp deterioration in the second half of the year.” (Verdict, June

2009). Asia Pacific (excl. Japan)

€41.8bn

19% of global spend

Though still developing, China and India were defined as “fast-growing new entrants to the market” by Bernard Arnault (LVMH CEO) in 2007 (Smale, A. 2007) and despite feeling the

effects of the recession “Sales in China were 56% higher in September 2009 compared with a year earlier.” (Curtin, M. October 2009). Japan

€29.9bn Expenditure

13% share

Once considered “the only country in the world where luxury products were considered mass market” (Tabuchi, H. September 2009), The Japanese Economy is reliant on exports, which

“[fell] off a cliff” (Verdict, June 2009), after the financial crisis. Japan was “Among the hardest hit by the global economic crisis.. Sales at Louis Vuitton (the nation’s favourite handbag), plunged 20 percent in the first six months of 2009.” (Tabuchi, H. September 2009)

Middle East and Others

€10bn Expenditure

5% of global spend

The middle east is a relatively new, small market but experienced rapid building development “in particular of huge luxury shopping areas since 2004” (Verdict 2007). “Bain expects sales of luxury items to rise 2% in the Middle East this year” (ameinfo.com April 2009).

Regional Analysis based on 2008 data (Verdict, June 2009)

pddfi final year 15


iii. wealth classifications

The Future Laboratory Futures Report: Luxury 2008, proposes“five stages of luxury” consumerism and

states “luxury is no longer a single-tiered proposition” (The Future Laboratory, November 2007). The largest high-wealth population remains North America, followed by Europe, Asia Pacific and Latin

America respectively. Within high wealth populations, wealth can be separated into categories

according to assets:

source: merrill lynch world wealth report 2009 (p.11)

HNWIs

“High Net worth individuals” (HNWI’s) or individuals with “more than US$1 million in financial assets” (Merrill Lynch, 2007) increased to 9.5 million in 2006 (Merrill Lynch, 2007) with “luxury collectibles account[ing] for the largest spend”. (Merrill Lynch, 2007). HNWI wealth totalled

US$37.2 trillion, representing an 11.4% gain since 2005. (Merrill Lynch, 2007) fuelling growth of

the luxury goods industry. At the end of 2008, the • world’s population of HNWIs was down 14.9%

from the year before, while their wealth had dropped 19.5%.(Merrill Lynch, 2009) Fig.2 HNWI World Wealth Distribution (Merrill Lynch 2009)

UHNWIs

Ultra-High Net Worth Individuals (UHNWIs) or individuals who hold “at least US$30 million in investable assets” (Merrill Lynch, 2007) grew to 94,970, in 2006 - an 11.3% gain, up from a

10.2% gain in 2005. (Merrill Lynch, 2007). Following the Financial Crisis (see __) UHNWIs

experienced a sharp decline (-24.6%) globally (Merrill Lynch, 2009) largely due to the “group’s

partiality for more aggressive products” (which often result in higher earnings/higher losses) “and pushed a large number of Ultra-HNWIs down into the ‘mid-tier millionaire’ bracket.” (Merrill

Lynch, 2009)

NMAs

NMAs New Mass Affluents/emerging affluents at the lower end of the spectrum. “TNS defines "emerging affluent" as households with a net worth between $100,000 and $500,000, excluding primary residences. [2005] they number 24.5 million, up from 23.9 million in 2004. (Sahadi, J.

2005).

pddfi final year 16


Aspirational

Prior to the Financial Crisis “the U.K.—and certainly the U.S.—had demonstrated unsustainable spending patterns”.(Merrill Lynch, 2009). In the UK in 2006 consumer spending reached a record

£1 trillion and luxury items saw the largest growth, “up 57% between 1995 and 2005” (Lewis,

P.). Easy credit encouraged lower socio-economic groups to enter the luxury market. In the

build-up to the Financial Crisis, credit dried up and in August 08 UK consumer disposable

income reached its lowest level in 11 years (Gilmore, G. 2008): “Instead of shopping for luxuries, the aspirational consumers are now just trying to cover their basic expenses” says Milton

Pedraza, CEO the Luxury Institute (Dolliver,M. 2009). “The luxury market is set to descend from this illusory cloud of everyone being wealthy back down to how it was before - serving the very few with the very expensive. (Beaumont-Thomas, B. 2008).

iv. market factors

a. Wealth Reduction

Global GDP was down 1.9% at the end of 2008 to 2%, equating to a global decrease in wealth.

(Merrill Lynch 2009). At the end of 2008, the world’s population of high net worth individuals

(HNWIs1) was down14.9% from the year before, while their wealth had dropped 19.5%. (Merill

Lynch 2009).

b. Travel A reduction in tourism may contribute to under-performing sales in luxury goods (particularly in

Europe) where “80% of purchases by Asians were made when they go abroad, and as much as 30% of developed market sales (e.g. in Europe) is attributed to emerging market customers as they travel.” (Pittilla, M. November 2008)

c. Developing markets

“There had been a general consensus that certain emerging economies, such as the BRIC

nations (Brazil, Russia, India, China), were in a stage of “decoupling”, or “had strengthened to the point that they no longer relied on mature economies for growth.” (Merrill Lynch 2009) While

this proved not to be the case, there is strong growth potential: “The combined wealth of Asia Pacific’s HNWIs is estimated to grow at 8.8% annually till 2018, which is faster than the global average of 7.1% (bloombergutv.com, Oct 2009). Speaking at the 2008 Luxury Briefing

Conference, Accenture Managing Partner Richard Wildman reflected that “emerging markets [were] driving the bulk of sales in recent years,” predicting that,“By 2010, some 40% of total luxury sales could be generated by BRIC markets.” (Pittilla, M. November 2008). However

emerging markets have typically looked to the mature markets for direction, so innovation and

development is still likely to occur here.

d. Retail distribution

Department stores have been the main distribution channel for luxury product. The two biggest department store markets, Germany and the UK, have under-performed in recent years.(Verdict June 2009) and increasingly brands have been expanding own store presence. Luxury brands

had also been notoriously slow to adopt online retailing strategies but with the success of luxury

online stores such as net-a-porter, are increasingly recognising the need for online presence.

e. currency

As European currency has weakened following the financial crisis, “Future overseas sourcing will become far more expensive”. (Rumsay, 2009) meaning brands will have to cover rising costs of

manufacture, and decide how this is passed on to the consumer.

pddfi final year 17


appendix 2

acorn socio-economic

classification

Fig 1 ACORN ABC1 Category

Source: (caci, 2009)

pddfi final year 18


appendix 3

notes: lcf hosts trend

intelligence 2010 webinar

22.09.09

Martin Raymond: Co-founder/Strategy & Inslight Director of The Futures

Laboratory, Editor of Viewpoint Magazine.

Tony Glenville: Colour Analysist (CMB)/Freelance Fashion Journalist for Vogue, Harpers

etc/Fashion Lecturer

Jane Kellock: WGSN Senior Trend Consultant (Previously head of design at Topshop)

martin Raymond

“alphalux” visual presentation

Luxury and how it’s changing: Luxury will go back to its roots:

Heritage

Simplification

Understanding

Austerity

Brand Quietness*

Localised Sense of Self

Trend Drivers:

Fall off in spending: 7% in last quarter

Russia, Brazil, India, China..not going to save luxury as previously predicted. Instead

REDEFINE LUXURY.

People want value! Luxury has to deliver on all fronts:

o Longevity

o Emotion

o Variety

o Valueness

o FOCUS ON LOCAL

Trend Directions:

Rough Lux: Urban archaeology..rawness/roughness/artisanal curated connotations

“Blingmalism”: Lustre with simplicity

Heritage Modern: Old brought back. Contemporary but with clear values and

consideration.

Philanthropic retail: Eco & discounts from Gucci, de Beers, YSL etc..also charity.

Sustainability: People are more cautious – back to slowness

pddfi final year 19


tony glenville

Slowdown 2010/11

We start to want integrity when purchasing.

MONOCHROME colours really important. Sophisticated Basics must be there. Safer options.

GREYS: Now an established colour. “Silent Grey”. Assemble own fabrics with layering...New Lux:

Chanel – fabrics MADE in-house.

NEW BLING: Subtle silver: Fluidity. Resurgance in the old..SILENT CHIC..silent films.

mood

Even at high street there’s surprising quality.

Drapery: Reassuring..luxurious. Covered in Fabric.

Feel Good in your skin

Mixing textures “the borrowers”

Urban Charm..retro NY

Eco: There is substance! It’s here to stay! Conserve what we have. Craft focus.

Twilight: Natural Colours, rich, desirable, don’t shout

Le Circqu: Got to have some fun! Red. Schiaparelli. 1940’s.

Eccentrism & Individual chic: You as yourself and confident

Calm down: Valentina

jane kellock

How to use wgsn

Growth from bi-annual to daily web interface. Information collection from everywhere including

blogs: Favourites including LS:N/D.cipher/fashionation/de zeen/y pulse/ ASVOF/PSFK

design/bibliodyssey/know the rest..

WGSN Inspire & inform:

Update: TRENDS

Confirm:

q&a

Q: How can fashion consumers give to charity?

MR: Give back not on just a public platform but with philanthropy and transparent working.

Philanthropy not just a marketing tool, but really genuine.

Q: How do trends work?

TG: Cyclicle and in various cycles with their own timelines. Trendsetters are not really trying to be

trendsetters but rather follow instinct and design by heart, and come and go out of fashion

moments, e.g Galliano.

Q: If you don’t have access to expensive trend forecasting like WGSN how can you forecast on a budget? JK: Use research and info! That’s all WGSN does..it’s out there. The world is full of free info you

just have to look for it.

pddfi final year 20


MY Q: Do you think that “eco luxury” has a future?

MR: I think that’s an investment opportunity!

TG: Even though MR/JK/TG didn’t collude, the presentations were saying the same

things..People are looking for lasting quality not throwaway. Think of heirlooms. Luxury should

be like buying a new heirloom. Something that employs real craftspeople and is maybe not fully

green/sustainable but is “eco” in so far as intended to be kept for a long time and not

throwaway.

MR: A lot of manufacturing processes will have to follow new legislation. Brands WILL have to

change. Luxury at it’s heart was about sustainability in that it was handed down and everything

was used from animal processes etc. At the moment “eco” is stuck onto a product to try and

sell. Ultimately brands will have to do it to exist.

Q: Where can you go for inspiration?

JK: Not just the internet! Follow your INSTINCT!

MR: Anything on the internet is already dead.

END

Spoke to Jane Kellock and Tony Glenville about my final project ideas and using organic leather

and both agreed if it was possible it was a great idea!

Q: “do you think that eco luxury has

a future?”

A: “i think that’s an investment

opportunity!” martin raymond trend analyst,

cofounder of the futures laboratory & editor of viewpoint magazine

pddfi final year 21


appendix 4

luxury ftw brand positioning

pddfi final year 22


appendix 5

luxury consumer research

analysis

6 Luxury consumers in London were surveyed about their footwear purchasing habits as well as

attitudes towards ethical/organic products (See Appendix _ and _for sample questionnaire and _

for raw data).

summary of findings

1. Age

Consumer age ranged from 20 – 47, with the majority of consumers falling into different age

categories. (see Fig. 1) 2. Relationship Status

Relationship status was a key indicator of consumer mindset, or “life-stage” with 50% of

participants being Married. (see fig 2.) 3. Dependants

Of the Participants who were married, 100% of them had children and 0% of the non-married

participants had children. (see fig. 3) 4. Living Situation

Living Situation was also taken as an idicator of wealth and “life-stage”. 50% of participants live

alone and 50% of participants live in a family household. (See fig 4)The participants who lived in

a family household were also the participants who were married with children. 5. Postcode Analysis

Due to the small sample size, and refusal to disclose postcode by two participants, the

postcode analysis is unreliable. (see fig. 5)Postcodes (an indicator of wealth) were intended to

be utilised in providing a geographical overview of the London Luxury population. Results were

taken and combined with results from a second research study into ethical consumers and

plotted on a postcode area map of London. (see Appendix).The aim was to provide an overview

of luxury consumer demographics in the city vs. areas with a high population of ethical

consumers, to establish target consumers. 6. Occupation

Occupations - also taken as an indicator of wealth – were assigned ACORN categories (See fig

6.) Though still of a high socio-economic level, some occupations were not of a level to predict

extreme wealth, suggesting affluence was inherited, particularly in the younger participants. This

was certainly the case of the Profiled Consumer (see Appendix). 7. Shopping Habits

Participants were asked why they shop in the store they were approached in (one of the luxury

department stores Harrods, Harvey Nicholas, Dover Street Market or Selfridges). Design and

Quality were of equal importance (36%) with fit, and service last at 7%. (see fig 7.)

When shopping specifically for shoes, Vintage Shops and Harvey Nichols were the most popular

(67%) followed by Dover Street Market (50%). Selfridges, Harrods, Browns and Sloane Street

boutiques were all equally popular (33%). (See fig. 8)

Most popular reasons for why consumers shop there were “Wide Choice”, “High Quality Product

and “Exclusive Product” (all 18%). “Nice Environment” and “Convenient Location” were next

(both 9%) followed by Personalisation (5%). (see fig. 9.)

pddfi final year 23


100% of younger participants Shopped for fashion at least once a week. Older participants

shopped “Once a month” or “When I have time”. (see fig 10.)

5 out of the 6 participants purchase luxury goods online, with 4 out of those 5 shopping at net-

a-porter.com. (see fig 11.) 8. Travel

Frequency of travel can be an indicator of lifestyle and wealth. 50% of participants travel

frequently in leisure time, typically a signal of high wealth. 1 participant travelled a lot “on

business”, and 2 “a moderate amount”. (see fig. 12).

Outside of London, participants cited Paris (67%) as a favourite shopping destination, followed

by New York (50%) and Milan (33%). (see fig. 13). 9. Favourite Brands

Nicholas Kirkwood was the most cited favourite Brand by 50% of participants, all of whom where

in the younger age groups. Lanvin and Prada were the next most popular (both 33%). As well as

“life-stage” factors (1-6), There was a notable difference in design preference and age between

marrieds/non-marrieds, drawing the conclusion of two different consumer groups: Younger non-

marrieds (Experimental) and older marrieds (Settled). Experimentals tended to favour the more

avante-guard designers such as Nicholas Kirkwood and Yves Saint Laurent, whilst Settleds were

more traditional in their selections, such as Prada and Brian Atwood. (see fig. 14) 10. Spend

Average spend was in the range of £250 - £500 per pair. One participant selected £180 - £200

and £500 - £1000, explaining she would spend less on day shoes, but a lot more on “special

shoes”. (see fig 15)

50% of participants purchase on average 2 pairs per month, while 50% purchase 1 pair or less.

Number of pairs was not separated between older and younger participant groups. (see fig, 16) 11. Factors in Shoe purchase

100% of participants cited Design and Quality as key aspects of a purchase. Comfort was the

next factor (67%). (see fig. 17.) 12. Ethical Fashion

33% of participants said they already purchase “ethical”/Organic fashion with Hemp USA cited

as a brand. (see fig 18.) Of those that did not, at least 50% commented that they would buy

more if there were more choice and better quality available.

83% purchase Stella McCartney clothing, but said they did not see it as an ethical brand. Only 1

of 6 participants purchases Stella McCartney footwear and accessories. (see fig. 19) Reasons

for not purchasing were that leather was not used and they didn’t feel the price was justified for

non-leather footwear. It was also discussed that leather on a product was seen as a sign of

quality and that they expect it when purchasing footwear. 13. Organic Meat

100% of participants purchased Organic meat at least “some of the time” (see fig 20) 50% said

they purchase Organic everytime.

The most important reason for choosing Organic meat was “Quality” (33%), followed by

“Welfare” and “Hormone Free” (both 25%) and finally “Anti GM” (17%). (see fig 21). 14. Organic Leather

100% of participants said they would buy Organic leather products if they were available and of

a high enough quality and design.(see fig 22).

pddfi final year 24


fig.1 age

17%

17%

17%

32%

17%

15-20

21-26

27-32

33-38

39-44

45-50

51-56

57 -62

68+

fig. 2 relationship status

1

3

2

0

1

2

3

Single

M arried

Cohabiting

In a Relationship

Of those who were married, all participants fell into the higher age groups

Fig 3. children

0

1

2

3

no of questionees

No Yes 1 Yes 2 Yes 3 Yes 4

Of those with children, all participants fell into the higher age groups.

pddfi final year 25


Fig. 4 living situation

0%

50%50%

0%

Flat-share

Family

Household

Alone

With Parents

Of those who lived in a family household, 100% fell into the older age groups.

Fig, 5 postcode

0

1

2

SW1

W14

TW2

Abroad

Undisclosed

fig 6. occupation

Occupation ACORN

Teacher 1 E

Editor 1 D

Marketing 1 D

Production Manager 1 C

Fashion Sales 1 E

Fashion Assistant 1 F

pddfi final year 26


Fig 7 why they shop where they were shopping (i.e. store they

were approached in)

36%

7%36%

0%

7%

14%

Clothing Quality

Service

Design aesthetic

Bespoke

alterations

Fit

Other

fig. 8 where they shop for shoes

0

1

2

3

4Harrods

Selfridges

Dover Street M arket

Bond st Boutiques

Knightsbridge

Vintage Shops

Harvey Nichols

Browns

Liberty

Sloane st Boutiqes

W estfields

Other

fig. 9 why they shop there

9%5%

0%

9%

14%

18%

18%

18%

9%0%

Good Service

Personalisation

Bespoke Service

Nice Environment

Convenient

Location

Exclusive

Product

High Quality

Product

Wide Choice

Trust the brand

Other

pddfi final year 27


fig. 10 how often they shop for fashion

0

1

2

no of questionees

More than once a week

Once a week

Once in 2 weeks

Once a month

When I have time

Personal Shopper

Other

fig. 11 do they buy luxury products online

0

1

2

3

4

5

No Yes

70% who did shop online shopped at net-a-porter.com.

fig. 12 travel

0

1

2

3

no questionees

Yes (business) Yes

(recreational)

Moderate amount

pddfi final year 28


fig. 13 favourite shopping destinations outside of London

0

1

2

3

4

no of questionees

Copenhagen

Paris

New York

Buenos Aires

Milan

fig. 14 favourite brands/designers

Favourite shoe brands/designers

Nicholas Kirkwood 3

Alaia 1

Lanvin 2

YSL 1

Prada 2

Marc Jacobs 1

Marni 1

Chloe 1

Tabitha Simmons 1

Nicoll Brundage 1

Brian Atwood 1

50% of participants cited Nicholas Kirkwood as a favourite designer, all of whom were aged

between 20 and 27 (100% of participating lower age groups).

Fig. 15 average spend on one pair of shoes

0

1

2

no of questionees

Average Price Range runs from £250 to £500.

* £180 - £200 was cited as for “casual shoes” with the same participant saying she would

spend £500 - £1000 on “special shoes”.

pddfi final year 29


Fig. 16 pairs purchased per month

50%50%

0%

0%

1 pair or less

2 Pairs

3 Pairs

4 Pairs

Number of pairs purchased was not separated between older and younger participants.

Fig. 17 factors in shoe purchases

0

1

2

3

4

5

6

no of questionees

Price

Comfort

Functionality

Design

Packaging

Brand

Use of Organic/Ethical

materials

Practicality

Quality

Longevity

100% of questionees cited Design and Quality as key aspects in a purchase.

Comfort was the next factor (67%).

Fig. 18 do they already buy organic/ethical fashion

0

1

2

3

4

Yes No

33% of questiones already purchase ethical fashion with Hemp USA products cited as a brand.

pddfi final year 30


Fig.19 do they purchase stella McCartney products

5

1 1

02

46

no of questionees

Yes: Clothing

Yes: Shoes

Yes: Bags/Accs

Yes: Stella

McCartney x adidas

No

83% purchase Stella McCartney clothing, but said they did not see it as an “ethical” fashion

brand.

Reasons for not purchasing shoes and bags were that leather was not used and they didn’t feel

the price justified non-leather footwear. Also that they see leather as a sign of quality and

actively look for it when purchasing footwear.

Fig. 20 organic meat consumption

0

0.5

1

1.5

2

2.5

3

no of participants

Everytime

Most of the time

Some of the time

Occasionally

Never

pddfi final year 31


Fig. 21 reasons for doing so if so

25%

17%

33%

25%

0%

Welfare

Anti GM

Quality of Meat

Hormone free

Other

Fig 22. would they buy organic leather products [if they were

of a high enough quality/design]

0

1

2

3

4

5

6

Yes No

pddfi final year 32


appendix 6.luxury raw data

questions total questions total

Why do you shop here (where shopping) Outside London, fav shop spots

Clothing Quality 5 Copenhagen 1

Service 1 Paris 4

Design aesthetic 5 New York 3

Bespoke alterations Buenos Aires 1

Fit 1 Milan 2

Other 2 Favourite shoe brands/designers

Where do you shop for shoes in London Nicholas Kirkwood 3

Harrods 2 Alaia 1

Selfridges 2 Lanvin 2

Dover Street Market 3 YSL 1

Bond st Boutiques Prada 2

Knightsbridge Marc Jacobs 1

Vintage Shops 4 Marni 1

Harvey Nichols 4 Chloe 1

Browns 2 Tabitha Simmons 1

Liberty 1 Nicoll Brundage 1

Sloane st Boutiqes 2 Brian Atwood 1

Westfields 1 Other Average Spend (1 pair of shoes)

£10 under

Because they offer £10 - £25

Good Service 2 £25 - £40

Personalisation 1 £40 - £70

Bespoke Service £70 - £100

Nice Environment 2 £100 - £130

Convenient Location 3 £130 - £160

Exclusive Product 4 £160 - £180

High Quality Product 4 £180 - £210 1

Wide Choice 4 £210 - £250

Trust the brand 2 £250 - £300 2

Other £300 - £350 2

£350 - £400 2

How often do you (fashion) shop average £400 - £500 2

More than once a week 1 £500 - £1000 1

Once a week 2 Over £1000

Once in 2 weeks Once a month 2 Pairs purchased per month

When I have time 2 1 pair or less 3

Personal Shopper 2 Pairs 3

Other 2 3 Pairs

4 Pairs

Do you buy luxury products online No 1 Factors in Shoe Purchases

Yes 5 Price 2

pddfi final year 33


Net-a-porter.com 4 Comfort 4

Brand online shops 1 Functionality 1

Other 2 Design 6

Packaging

Do you travel much? Brand 2

Yes (business) 1 Use of Organic/Ethical materials

Yes (recreational) 3 Practicality 1

Moderate amount 2 Quality 6

No Longevity


Buy Organic/Ethical fashion? Postcode

Yes 2 SW1 1

No 4 W14 1

TW2 1

Purchase Stella McCartney Products? Abroad 1

Yes: Clothing 5 Undisclosed 2

Yes: Shoes 1 Yes: Bags/Accs 1 Occupation

Yes: Stella McCartney x adidas Teacher 1

No Editor 1

Marketing 1

Buy Organic meat? Production Manager 1

Everytime 3 Fashion Sales 1

Most of the time 2 Fashion Assistant 1

Some of the time 1

Occasionally Age

Never 15-20 1

Vegetarian/Vegan 1 21-26 1

27-32 1

Reasons for choosing Organic meat 33-38 2

Welfare 3 39-44

Anti GM 2 45-50 1

Quality of Meat 4 51-56

Hormone free 3 57 -62

Other 68+ Vegetarian/Vegan

Living Situation

Would you buy organic leather products Flat-share

Yes 6 Family Household 3

No Alone 3

With Parents

personal Relationship status Single 1 total participants 6

4-Married 3 Cohabiting (Rest of data qualatative) In a Relationship 2

pddfi final year 34


appendix 7.

sample luxury questionnaire

pddfi final year 35


appendix 8

ethical ftw brand positioning

pddfi final year 36


appendix 9

leather industry overview

leather: unethical and unsustainable

The global leather industry has a huge negative impact on the environment and (unsurprisingly)

the animals concerned. “Cattle are responsible for about 80% of all deforestation’ in the Amazon

region. In recent years, on average one hectare of Amazon rainforest has been lost to cattle

ranchers every 18 seconds.” (greanpeace 2009). Aside from pollution from cancerous chemicals

used in chrome tanning (the process used to treat 95% of leather on the market), according to

the UN, livestock produce more greenhouse gases than all forms of transport put together, as

well as contributing to acid rain (Lean 2006). The enormous quantity of water needed to raise

cattle and in the tanning process equates to having a bath everyday for over 40 years, for every

one pair of leather shoes (Beyondskin.co.uk). Leather is big business and with most of the raw

materials (animal skins) coming from animals in developing countries with little regard for animal

welfare, cattle are bred and harvested as products rather than sentient beings. Welfare

standards in developing countries and Europe (if in existence) are not enforced, and many

animals suffer abuse, inhumane living conditions, and unnecessary transportation often resulting

in extreme stress/death. According to Peta (People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals) “the

high speed of assembly lines that often process up to 400 cows per hour results in the improper

stunning, each year, of millions of cows, who are consequently skinned and dismembered while

they are still kicking and crying out in terror.” (cowsarecool.com/cows)

Globally the leather industry was worth USD 85bn in 2006 with China and Italy the leading

producing and exporting nations. (KPMG 2006 p2). I.5billion cattle (and increasing) are killed

every year (Lean 2006) with about half of global leather production for shoes (Greenpeace

2009). The global nature of the business means that raw hides, and semi finished and finished

products are all traded globally between business and countries (Econ 2008), making it

impossible to track supply chain and enforce any kind of standard.

Aside from obvious welfare, pollution and supply chain issues in the industry, a huge problem

has been the resistance amongst those involved to take ethics/sustainability seriously, with many

believing it to be a passing trend. Essentially a full reform of the system is required, with

governmental backing and enforcement of legislation before anything is likely to change.

pddfi final year 37


appendix 10

vegan consumer insight

16th october, islington art & design fair/underground ethical

catwalk : exhibitor a alicia, accessories designer

profile

age 25, accessories designer, vegetarian, living in London,

wearing black flat ruched plastic ankle boots.

(After browsing a necklace/accessories stall and finding a piece I liked) So how are your products ethical?

Well I’m not actually trying to be an ethical brand as such but the felt used in these

necklaces is 85% recycled acrylic, 15% wool and all of my packaging is recycled. I try

to be conscious about these things and I think every new brand should be thinking

about these kinds of things.

Have you ever thought about using leather?

No! I’m actually a vegetarian so no.

I’m actually a footwear designer, i used to be a vegetarian in the past, but I now eat organic meat, and I’m trying to source leather for a collection that is from organically raised animals - so as you can buy organic meat, you should be able to buy organic leather. Is that something you would consider using? Ooh no, I’m not sure, maybe! Since I don’t eat meat maybe not but, I’m not sure.

So where do you buy your shoes now?

I tend to just buy any plastic shoes from those cheap shops that’re like 20,30 pounds

you know, but it’s probably worse, I don’t know!

But plastic’s not going to biodegrade - personally I don’t like that.. I know I know! Yeah I guess the ideal would be a kind of fabric shoe with organic

materials.

But what about if you have to wear it in winter or bad weather and so on? Where leather would be waterproof - Well you can have it coated can’t you? I don’t know maybe, you can ask peopletree or

someone like that, I’m sure they could help you with that kind of stuff.

That’s a good idea thanks! So do you find it hard to find shoes you like then? What about from ethical brands like them or specifically organic shoes. I have never found any I like.. (Pulls face) Yeah they tend to be really old looking or just awful! That’s why I tend to just

buy the plastic ones.

So would you be interested in a more fashion orientated/avante guard ethical shoe

brand?

pddfi final year 38


Definitely!

So do you have a shop or how did you start your business?

Well to be honest I just started really small making things and then selling through etsy,

you know it?

(nod) Well I’ve gone from working around 4 days week full time, and just recently went full-

time because of etsy!

Wow that’s amazing congratulations!

Thanks, and if I could give you one piece of advice – I don’t know if you know how etsy

works? –

Not really.. Well the search listings go on everyday, so everytime you update it moves you up the

list, so if you don’t update for 5 days say, you’ll be like 900 in the search results..so I

update daily now.

Thanks for the tip!

No problem, so do you want to try that one? (origami necklace in hand) Please! (whilst trying) So where do you source the felt?

Argh it’s a company in the UK, I can’t remember the name.. but they offer that and also

a 100% recyled acrylic and the difference is actually huge. Just that little bit of wool

makes the touch so much better.

So do you know where the wool comes from?

Mm, not really..i know – it’s hard!

Wow it’s (the necklace) really different actually..i really like the origami idea

Yeah that actually came about because I designed a mens broach and tried to kind of

man it up a bit!

And then all the women wanted them?!

Exactly!

Call for catwalk show Argh thanks very much, I better go to the show - how much was that one?

That’s £30

Is that the only one in that colour?

It is I’m afraid, these are my newest ones..I can hold it for you if you like?

That would be great thanks.

pddfi final year 39


Appendix 11

organic consumer: research

results

Forty Organic consumers in London were surveyed about their reasons for purchasing Organic

meat, footwear purchasing habits as well as attitudes towards ethical/organic products (See

Appendix _ and _for sample questionnaire and _ for raw data).

summary of findings

1. Age

The largest age categories were “27 – 32” (33%), “21 – 26” (31%), and “33 – 38” (19%),

suggesting younger to early middle-aged consumers are the main Organic consumers. (See fig

1) 2. Dependants

The majority of participants did not have children, suggesting a higher personal disposable

income, thus allowing spend on Organic products. However those with children were most likely

to purchase Organic meat “every time”, citing their child’s health as a major consideration. (See

fig 3) 3. Living Situation

Participants were fairly equally divided by living situation (an indicator of wealth), suggesting

ethical products appeal across the board, but an minority of participants aged 20 and below

indicates wealth as a factor in consumption. (fig 4) 4. Postcode Analysis

Thirty six Participants provided postcodes, which were also taken as an indicator of wealth and

mapped according to the percentage of survey population with that postcode. (fig 5) This was

taken and combined with results from a second research study into luxury consumers and

plotted on a postcode area map of London. The aim was to provide an overview of luxury

consumer demographics in the city vs. areas with a high population of ethical consumers. (see

Appendix). Results from this test are largely unreliable due to the small sample population of

luxury consumers willing to take part in research, but in itself provides an indicator of wealth

according to the population of ethical consumers. (Based upon the fact the Organic products

are more expensive therefore higher populations of Organic consumers are likely to have a higher

wealth). 5. Occupation

A list of Occupations is provided at Fig. 6. According to ACORN classification, most participants

were from a variety of different socio-economic groups, suggesting that whilst consumers may

not buy Organic all the time, even less affluent consumers consider ethics to be of importance. 6. Organic Meat

When choosing Organic meat “Quality of Meat” (32%) was of most importance followed by

“Welfare” (27%), “Hormone Free” (20%) and “Anti GM” (16%). (fig.7)

Most Consumers reported purchasing Organic meat “Most of the Time” (31%), Followed by “

Every time”/”Some of the time” (both 24%), and (13%) said Occasionlly. (“Never” (8%) was

selected by two Vegetarians, something not taken into account when designing the

questionnaire. (fig. 8)

pddfi final year 40


7. Organic Leather

32 out of 40 (80%) said they would be interested in Organic Leather products if they were

available. The 20% that said they wouldn’t cited (perceived) higher price as a reason why not.

(fig. 9) 8. Ethical Fashion

67.5% said they do not currently buy Organic/Ethical Fashion because its “ugly” and

“overpriced”, with one consumer commenting “sorry, but I go on looks”. (fig. 10) Of the 32.5%

that do already purchase, 30% said they buy from Peopletree, and 10% buy from “fairtrade

shops”. 9. Factors in shoe purchases

Quality and Comfort were the most important factors when purchasing (both 72.5%) closely

followed by Price (70%) and lastly design (60%). Functionality and Practicality were the next

most important (both 42.5%) (See fig. 11). 10. Footwear Retail

Consumers said they currently shop mostly at [small] local high street boutiqes, (27%), followed

by Department stores (21%) and City centre shops (22%). See fig.12. Shopping malls were next

(9%) followed by online (7%).

When asked about favourite places to shop 20% had no preference. Vintage markets (10%)

Selfridges (7.5%) and the Internet (7.5% ) were the most popular aside from individual locations.

(see fig.13). Reasons for being their favourite location were “Wide Choice” (21%), “Nice

Environment” (20%), “Good Quality Product”/”Trust the Brand” (16%) and “Convenience”

(13%). Interestingly “Good service” was only (9%). (see fig. 14). 11. Favourite Brands

The majority of participants (37.5%) did not have a favourite footwear Brand/Designer. An open

question format , the most popular brands were Office (12.5%) and Kurt Geiger (10%), followed

by Manolo Blahnik and Salvatore Ferragamo (both 7.5%). (See fig. 15.). This perhaps

represents the diverse sample of participants. 12. Average Spend/Quantity.

25 % said they would spend £40 - £70, 20% said they would spend £70 - £100 and 15% said

they would spend £100 - £130/£130 - £160. Three participants said they would spend £500 -

£1000 on shoes for a special occasion. (see fig.16)

92% of participants said they would buy one pair of shoes or less on average a month, with 5%

saying they would buy 2 pairs. One participant said she would buy 4 pairs. (see fig. 17).

Fig. 1 Age

3%

31%

33%

19%

8%

0%3%

3%0%

15-20

21-26

27-32

33-38

39-44

45-50

51-56

57 -62

68+

pddfi final year 41


Fig. 2 Relationship status

02468

101214

No. of

Questionnees

Single

M arried

Cohabiting

In a Relationship

fig. 3 children

0

5

10

15

20

25

no. of questionees

No Yes 1 Yes 2 Yes 3 Yes 4

fig. 4 living situation

33%

36%

31%

0%

Flat-share

Family Household

Alone

With Parents

pddfi final year 42


fig. 5 postcode

0

1

2

3

4

5

6

no of questionees

Abroad

E1

E8

E9

N1

N15

N16

NW6

SW11

SW14

SW19

SW3

fig. 6 list of occupations & estimation of acorn

classification (see appendix)

Occupation ACORN

Accountant 1 E

Actress 1 F

Architect 1 E

Artist 1 O

Consultant 1 C

Co-Ordinator 1 I

Film/Edit Co-Ordinator 1

Graphic Designer 1 G

Hairdresser 1 I

Housewife 3 C

Humanitarian 2 O

Interior Designer 3 E

Jeweller 1 E

Legal Consultant 1 D

Marketing 1 D

Party Planner 1 H

PR 1 F

Producer 2 G

Psychologist/Entrepreneur 1 E

Restaurant Supervisor 1 H

Student 7 F

pddfi final year 43


Fig. 7 reason for choosing organic meat

27%

16%

32%

20%

1% 4%

Welfare

Anti GM

Quality of Meat

Hormone free

Other

Vegetarian/Vegan

fig. 8 frequency of organic purchase

24%

31%

24%

13%

8%

Everytime

Most of the time

Some of the time

Occasionally

Never

fig. 9 interest in organic leather products if available

0

5

10

15

20

25

30

35

no of questionees

Yes No

pddfi final year 44


fig. 10 already buy organic fashion

0

5

10

15

20

25

30

no of questionees

No Yes

fig. 11 factors in shoe purchases

2829

17

24

2

5 5

17

29

4

2

0

5

10

15

20

25

30

no of questionees

Price

Comfort

Functionality

Fashion forward design

Packaging

Brand

Use of Organic/Ethical

materials

Practicality

Quality

How long it will last

Other

fig. 12 where they shop for shoes

27%

13%

9%

21%

22%

7%1%

Local High st

boutiques

City Centre Shops

Shopping Malls

Department Stores

Vintage

Markets/Shops

Online

Other

pddfi final year 45


fig. 13 favourite place to shop for shoes (open question)

Favourite place to shop

No preference 8 Nordstrom 1

Internet 3 Oxford st 1

Spice (Upper St N1) 1 Topshop Ox st 2

Clarks 1 Cara (Richmond) 1

Poste Mistress 1 Portobello 1

Dover Street Market 1 John Lewis 1

Selfridges 3 Luca (milan) 1

Vintage/Markets 4 Office 2

The Brand 1 Harrods 1

Manolo Blahnik 1

(20%) had no preference

fig. 14 reasons they are favourite

9%

21%

20%

16%

16%

13%

5%

Good Service

Wide Choice

Nice Environment

Good Quality Product

Trust the Brand

Convient to get to

Other

fig. 15 favourite brands

Favourite shoe brands?

Christian Louboutin 2 Doc Martins 2

Nicholas Kirkwood 1 Russel & Bromley 2

Dior Mens 1 Manolo Blahnik 3

Kurt Geiger 4 Salvatore Ferragamo 3

Jimmy Choo 2 Frye Merrel 2

Clarks 1 Chloe 2

Charlotte Olympia 1 dSquared 2

Yves Saint Laurent 2 Office 5

Churches 1 Mui Mui 2

Vintage 2 Artigianal shops in mican 1

Camper 2 no preference 15

Cos 2 Margiela 1

pddfi final year 46


Fig. 16 average spend per pair

0

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

10

no of questionees

fig, 17 average number of pairs purchased per month

92%

5%0%3%

1 pair or less

2 Pairs

3 Pairs

4 Pairs

pddfi final year 47


appendix 12 organic raw data


Reasons for choosing meat Favourite shoe brands?

Welfare 22 Christian Louboutin 2

Anti GM 13 Nicholas Kirkwood 1

Quality of Meat 26 Dior Mens 1

Hormone free 16 Kurt Geiger 4

Other 1 Jimmy Choo 2

Vegetarian/Vegan 3 Clarks 1

Charlotte Olympia 1

Frequency of Organic purchase Yves Saint Laurent 2

Everytime 9 Churches 1

Most of the time 12 Vintage 2

Some of the time 9 Camper 2

Occasionally 5 Doc Martins 2

Never 3 Russel & Bromley 2

Manolo Blahnik 3

Interest in Organic products Salvatore Ferragamo 3

Yes 32 Frye Merrel 2

No 6 Chloe 2

dSquared 2

Already Buy Organic Fashion + Perception Office 5

No 27 Mui Mui 2

Ugly 1 Artigianal shops in mican 1

Overpriced 5 no preference 15

Yes 10 Margiela 1

From 0 Cos 2

Peopletree 3 Fairtrade Shops 1 Favourite place to shop

No preference 8

Factors in Shoe Purchases Internet 3

Price 28 Spice (Upper St N1) 1

Comfort 29 Clarks 1

Functionality 17 Poste Mistress 1

Fashion forward design 24 Dover Street Market 1

Packaging 2 Selfridges 3

Brand 5 Vintage/Markets 4

Use of Organic/Ethical materials 5 The Brand 1

Practicality 17 Manolo Blahnik 1

Quality 29 Harrods 1

How long it will last 4 Nordstrom 1

Other 2 Oxford st 1

Topshop Ox st 2

Where do you shop for shoes? Cara (Richmond) 1

Local High st boutiques 22 Portobello 1

City Centre Shops 11 John Lewis 1

Shopping Malls 7 Luca (milan) 1

Department Stores 17 Office 2

pddfi final year 48


Vintage Markets/Shops 18 Online 6 Because

Other 1 Good Service 5

Wide Choice 11

questions total Nice Environment 11

Average Spend (1 pair of shoes) Good Quality Product 9

£10 under 0 Trust the Brand 9

£10 - £25 2 Convient to get to 7

£25 - £40 4 Other 3

£40 - £70 10 questions total

£70 - £100 8 Postcode

£100 - £130 6 Abroad 3

£130 - £160 6 E1 1

£160 - £180 2 E8 3

£180 - £210 1 E9 2

£210 - £250 1 N1 6

£250 - £300 0 N15 1

£300 - £350 1 N16 3

£350 - £400 0 NW6 2

£400 - £500 1 SW11 1

£500 - £1000 3 SW14 1

Over £1000 0 SW19 1

SW3 1

Pairs purchased per month TW15 1

1 pair or less 34 W11 1

2 Pairs 2 W2 3

3 Pairs 0 W25 1

4 Pairs 1 W6 1

W8 1

personal W9 2

Relationship status WW1 1

Single 13 Married 8 Age

Cohabiting 8 15-20 1

In a Relationship 10 21-26 11

27-32 12

Children 33-38 7

No 23 39-44 3

Yes 1 7 45-50 0

Yes 2 3 51-56 1

Yes 3 1 57 -62 1

Yes 4 1 68+ 0

Living Situation Total Questionees 40

Flat-share 12 Family Household 13

Alone 11 With Parents 0

pddfi final year 49


appendix 13

organic questionnaire sample

pddfi final year 50


appendix 14

equa interview

pddfi final year 51


pddfi final year 52


appendix 15

initial visual concept board

pddfi final year 53


appendix 16

tows analysis

pddfi final year 54


appendix 17

gap analysis

pddfi final year 55


appendix 18

pddfi final year 56


appendix 19

visual consumer profile

pddfi final year 57


appendix 20

pddfi final year 58


appendix 21

project plan

pddfi final year 59


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misc internet Sites

http://www.adweek.com/aw/content_display/news/agency/e3i18f9fdff77fbe3607ebf6e9b70ba2062?pn=4 http://online.wsj.com/article/SB10001424052748704597704574487342734060448.html?mod=

WSJ_hpp_sections_lifestyle



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s_buying_luxury_shoes_ethical/


http://www.answers.com/topic/running-shoe-2 www.createthegroup.com/ fairtrade.org.uk

http://www.natureally.co.uk/origin.html

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exhibitions

V&A: Sports vs Fashion, Dec 2008

V&A: Cold War Modern Dec 2008

Munich: Maison Martin Margiela

Muencher Stadt Museum: Kandinsky Jan 2009

Design Museum: Jan Kaplicky Oct 2009

Design Museum: Oct 2009

Tate Modern: Pop Sep 2009

http://corporate.marksandspencer.com/media/press_releases/planA/pressrelease_plananovember

http://corporate.marksandspencer.com/media/press_releases/planA/pressrelease_plananovember

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http://www.ecofashionworld.com/Faves/DANCING-SHOES.html

http://www.independent.co.uk/environment/climate-change/cow-emissions-more-damaging-to-planet-than-cosub2sub-from-cars-427843.html

http://www.independent.co.uk/environment/climate-change/cow-emissions-more-damaging-to-planet-than-cosub2sub-from-cars-427843.html

http://econpapers.repec.org/article/mesijtlid/v_3a1_3ay_3a2008_3ai_3a4_3ap_3a482-519.htm

http://www.soilassociation.org/Whyorganic/Whatisorganic/10reasonstochooseorganic/tabid/334/Default.aspx

http://www.soilassociation.org/Whyorganic/Whatisorganic/10reasonstochooseorganic/tabid/334/Default.aspx







http://www.evermanifesto.com/manifesto1/assets/pdf/MANIFESTO%20FA_FINAL.pdf

http://www.businessoffashion.com/

http://www.londonfashionweek.co.uk/content.aspx?CategoryID=523

http://www.alternet.org/workplace/141834/with_a_billion_people_living_on_less_than_$1_a_day,_is_buying_luxury_shoes_ethical/

http://www.alternet.org/workplace/141834/with_a_billion_people_living_on_less_than_$1_a_day,_is_buying_luxury_shoes_ethical/


http://www.answers.com/topic/running-shoe-2

http://www.createthegroup.com/

http://www.natureally.co.uk/origin.html

http://www.cowsarecool.com/cows.asp

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