Avon Gorge Climbing Guide

Avon Gorge

Avon Gorge

Intro

Characteristics

ROCKTYPE:..............LimestoneMAX HEIGHT:..............120mASPECT:................WTRAD:..................YESSPORT:.................YESSINGLE PITCH:..........YESMULTI PITCH:...........YESBOULDERING:............YES

IntroWith easy access from the centre of Bistol and from the M4 or M5 coupled with extensive climbing and a sunny disposition this has long been one of the most frequented crags in the south. In itsheyday some twenty years ago, Avon was the hub of the Bristol scene. Nowadays, however, it has become something of a backwater due to a series of events including a two year closure of the mainwall for a major construction project followed by a two year occupation by gipsies ,the opening of Under Cover Rock and more recently, the opening up of Cheddar as a year round venue.Avon has also suffered from a reputation for choss, polish and ancient pegs -not always without justification. Despite all this Avon still has a lot of excellent climbing (as well as some less excellent stuff)and is the home of a number of South West classics.

The crag is big, sporting numerous two and three pitch routes. Most of the rock is quarried and the over-riding ethic over the years has been trad although the numerous old pieces of in situ gear as wellas the more recent retro bolting of many routes does reflect a healthy disregard for purism!

Climbing is permitted throughout the year on most of the crags along the east bank of the river by the A4. The only exceptions being where the cliff rises directly from the roadside (ie Battleship Buttressnow covered in netting anyway) and the right hand end of Main Wall where nesting restictions apply in spring and early summer. Details of these can be found at the main wall car park.

The crags on the west side are out of bounds.

Avon Gorge (Sector: unspecified)

Avon Gorge Sketch Map

1. Wintersol

2. Unknown Wall

3. Exploding Galaxy Wall

4. Unknown Buttress

5. Puke Area

6. Main Face

7. Last Slip Area

8. Simian Area

9. Jasper Area

10. New Quarry Left

11. New Quarry Middle

12. Main Wall Left

13. Main Wall central Area

14. Main Wall Right

15. Morning Slab Left

16. Morning Slab Right

17. Cental Buttress

18. The Amphitheatre

19. Suspension Bridge

20. Suspension Bridge Buttress

http://wikitopo.com/crag.php?tId=795

Avon Gorge (Sector: Suspension Bridge)

Suspension Bridge

No intro available


Suspension Bridge Buttress

1:Suspension Bridge Arete HVSThe easiest climb on the crag. 1. 4CLast update: normal12b on Sep 26 18:28 2008

2:Suspense E1(UK Trad)Enjoyable steep climbing with bomber gear on the crux. Soft touch for E1

1. 5b: From a few feet right of the arete, climb the easy bottom section to the grassy break &ledges. Move uo and left to good wire placements the straifgt up and over a bulging line ofpockets to stand in the niche above. Go carefully up left to a cave thingy & good gear.Coninue via the easiest way to the pedastal.Last update: normal12b on Sep 26 18:28 2008

3:Baby Duck E1Saunter up to the prominent 1/3 height break, get some good gear in and swagger joyouslyup the groove to a rest by a big hole. Continue more easily to the pedestal.

1. 5B: The meat of this excellent pitch is the line of pockets to the right of suspense.Last update: normal12b on Sep 26 18:29 2008

4:Beginnings E2Taking an interesting line up the best bit of limestone on the crag. The lower down you get onthe route the harder it is. Excellent climbing. 1. 5CLast update: dirk gently on Aug 20 08:15 2008

5:Limbo Bit of a scramble up to the line of pockets. Really nice climbing from then on with plenty ofgear and large holds just when you need them. As you're stretching for a hold you may haveto put your face into one or two of the pockets. Ensure you take a deep breath and get a whiffof fresh parsely. If the belay is busy you can bare right and finish at Oblivion. 1. 5BLast update: northcave on Sep 03 21:33 2009

6:Whatsitcalled E2Climb easily up to the big ledge system and clip an old peg before embarking on the the cruxmoves through the bulge. A small wire (rock 1) can be placed with difficulty. Continuedelicately up passing another peg.

1. 5C: An exiting little number!Start below the Limbo groove. Climb easily up to some good gear on the ledge. Now move upto below the overhangs and clip a crap peg. Climb strenuously past this (small wire if you canhang on long enough to find and place it) and continue for ten feet to a welcome peg and rest.Continue more easily to the top.Last update: normal12b on Jul 17 15:41 2008

7:GT Special E4Goey!

1. 6a: Climb easily to the big ledge left of the limbo groove. Arrange some small wires andclimb urgently up the bulging wall above (at first on thin finger pockets then easing as youpass the gear ) to stand in balance by a poor peg (and bit of ancient blue tat?) . Easier moveslead to a thin crack in a short wall. Climb this on good wires and continue to a belay on thenext ledge. Traverse to the pedastal at the top of suspense to descend.Last update: Captain Waterproof on Apr 25 15:35 2008

8:Nemo me impune Lacessit E4A very eliminate and escapable problem taking the steepest part ofthe black wall between Earl of Perth and oblivion. Strenuous pocket pulling followed by a boldish wall above(if you stick dogmatically tothe line). 1. 6ALast update: Anon



9:Earl of Perth E1 length:50mReally nice climb and not difficult for an E1. The bold move right out of the black area isprotected very well and large holds make for a easy but exposed climb. You can do it easily inone pitch but to abseil back down you need to get to the end of Route (10) which is furtherleft. The traverse is nice but you'd probably want the lesser rope drag by making it twopitches.

Top climb.

1. 25m 5B: 25Reach the big ledge fairly easily and climb steeply up the big black pod onmonster pockets (in situ threads). Exit boldly right below the narrowing of the groove andclimb more easily to belay on a cluster of pegs at the next break2. 25m 5A: Move up the crack for about 12m and then either continue up or if vegitated then anice traverse directly accross to the large plate abseil point.Last update: northcave on Sep 11 17:02 2009

10:Oblivion E2Bold and strenuous climbing - fair lob potential off the strenny section of the first pitch but withgood gear at the start of the difficulties as the last line of defence.

Many parties ab off from the first belay but pitch 2 is well worth the effort

1. 5C: Climb easily up to the right hand end of the big ledge system below the bulging walland step up to a line of overhaging pockets. Place bomber wires and climb. Further goodwires can be placed if strength permits.Reach easier ground and step up to belay at the obvious break - pegs and wires.2. 5B: Traverse left to one of the few jaming cracks in the gorge. Go up and continue to abelay somewhere below the bridge - sorr memory a bit sketchy!Last update: Normal12b on Aug 14 21:03 2009

11:How Hard E1(UK Trad)Pleasant climbing. Most of the crap pegs can easily be backed up with good wires. A coupleof bold moves if you stay in the crack at the first small overhang or move right for a veryslightly easier line.

To descend , either ab off a bundle of old tat tied round a thorn bush - or if this makes younervous, traverse left along the obvious break (4c Last pitch of Hell Gates) to reach the fatbelay at the top of Suspension Bridge Buttress.

Last update: northcave on Sep 03 21:24 2009

12:Hell Gates HVSVery fine climbing on good gear. Watch out for nesting birds in the cave. 1. 5A, 2. 5A, 3. 4bLast update: Normal12b on Aug 14 20:55 2009

13:Hell Gates - undirect version HVS(UK Trad)Excellent out there feeling climbing with a tricky move as you start to move left to traverst tothe cave.

Last update: Normal12b on Aug 14 21:08 2009

14:Hell Gates Alternate Start (UK Trad)An alternative start to Hell Gates - a slightly crumbly feeling crystaline layback flake 1. 5aLast update: Normal12b on Aug 14 21:05 2009

15:Another roadside attraction E2(UK Trad)From the traverse of Hell Gates step left and from the peg runner move up with a tricky movecontinue up- interesting climbing

Last update: Normal12b on Aug 14 21:08 2009


Suspension Bridge

1: Last update: Anon

2:Suspense HVS 1. 5ALast update: Anon

3:Limbo E1 1. 5BLast update: Anon

4:Earl of Perth E1 1. 5B, 2. 5ALast update: Anon

5:How Hard E1 1. 40m 5BLast update: Anon

6:Hell Gates HVSSolid HVS! 1. 5A, 2. 5ALast update: Captain Waterproof on Apr 25 16:09 2008


Avon Gorge (Sector: Ampitheatre)

Ampitheatre

No intro available

Avon Gorge (Sector: Ampitheatre)

The Amphitheatre

1:Liverbird Buttress S(UK Trad) length:50mLast update: tom on Jul 07 18:50 2008

2:Stranded S(UK Trad) length:36mLast update: tom on Jul 07 18:50 2008

3:Giant's Cave Buttress VS(UK Trad) length:77m 1. 4c, 2. ?, 3. 4cLast update: normal12b on Sep 26 18:27 2008

4:Arete de la Degeneration E3(UK Trad) length:25m 1. 6aLast update: tom on Jul 07 18:52 2008

5:Two Ton of Fun E4(UK Trad) length:25m 1. 6bLast update: tom on Jul 07 18:53 2008


Avon Gorge (Sector: Main Area)

Main Area

Intro

Characteristics

MAX HEIGHT:..............100mQUARRIED:..............YESTRAD:..................YESSINGLE PITCH:..........YESMULTI PITCH:...........YES


Morning Slab Left

1:Dawn Walk S 1. 4B, 2. 4ALast update: NORMAL12B

2:The Corner VS(UK Trad)A bold route with typical Avon style. The route starts up dawn walk traditionally althoughanother (grotty) access pitch is available and finishes at the lunchtime ledges, where it can beusefully linked with Aftermath or Petros to give a fine VS outing

Last update: mikekann on Aug 07 23:56 2008

3:Reveille VSAn adventurous climb that is both more techical and more serious than the CC guidebooksuggests.

1. 5C: Climb without much difficulty to the prominent orange block below the first break.Surmount ths to the left and move up into a nich and old peg runner. Back it up with a fewRPs then climb delicately to the second overlap. A good peg can be backed up with wiresbfore tackling the crux to reach the slab. Continue airily to reach the Dawn Walk traverse.Last update: normal12b on Mar 26 23:46 2008

4:Rude Awakening E2 1. 5bLast update: Anon



5:Bobs climb VDiff(UK Trad)Climb from the lunch time ledges into the bay of Aftermath. Here take an obvious line ofweakness to ones right, not without interest or steepness.


6:Aftermath VS(UK Trad) length:25mStarting from the Lunchtime ledge, climb up left until an open bay is reached with a bore holeand miners spike in it. Climb the bole hole and then exit awkwardly. Enjoyable. 1. 4cLast update: mikekann on Aug 08 00:04 2008

7:Mike's Mistake E1 Excellent climbing with spaced protection

1. 50m 5bLast update: Anon

8:Petros VSStart by a tree in front of a large roof

1. 26m 4C: Climb the tree until it is possible to step out onto the slab above the overhang. Goup the slab to reach an obvious flake system that rises diagonally rightwards. Climb this to itshighest point from where a tricky move up and left leads to easier ground. Take the path ofleast resistance to the top.Last update: Anon


Morning Slab Right

1:Dawn Walk S 1. 28m 4a, 2. 20m 4aLast update: Anon

2:Mike's Mistake E1(UK Trad)Delectable climbing with spaced gear. 1. 5bLast update: normal12b on Mar 27 19:27 2008

3:Morty's Error E2(UK Trad)Slightly bolder than it sounds in the climbers club guide.

1. 50m ?: Climb op to the orange block and up left to stand on it. Move up into a scoop andclip an old peg. Thin climbing now leads through a bit of a bulge and up to the seond band ofoverhangs. A reassuring peg can be backed up if so deseired before making the crux moves .Climb the up the salbs to join Dawn Walk.Last update: normal12b on Mar 27 19:26 2008

4:Mark'sMorality E2(UK Trad) 1. 51m 5bLast update: normal12b on Mar 27 19:26 2008

5:Last Trump E2(UK Trad) 1. 50m 5cLast update: normal12b on Mar 27 19:26 2008

6:Clarion VS(UK Trad) 1. 4cLast update: normal12b on Mar 27 19:26 2008

7:Sinister VS(UK Trad) 1. 20m 4a, 2. 10m 4b, 3. 20m 4aLast update: normal12b on Mar 27 19:25 2008

8:Mediator E1(UK Trad) 1. 5bLast update: normal12b on Mar 27 19:27 2008

9:Dexter VS(UK Trad) 1. 20m ?, 2. 20m 4bLast update: normal12b on Mar 27 19:27 2008

10:Central Arete (UK Trad)Last update: normal12b on Mar 27 19:27 2008



Cental Buttress

1:Central Slab HVS(UK Trad) length:60mOnly around since the last guidebook, this line is worth seeking out nd takes a direct andinteresting line at first at a very reasonable level, and then in a more exposed and excitingposition on a thin balancy slab on the head wall 1. 4c, 2. 5aLast update: mikekann on Aug 07 23:51 2008

2:Central Rib VS(UK Trad) length:60m3 great pitches on a slightly wandering but fantastic line.The third pitch is one of the best of itsgrade in the gorge 1. 4c, 2. 4c, 3. 4cLast update: mikekann on Aug 07 23:48 2008

3:Great Central Route HVS 1. 5a, 2. 4cLast update: NORMAL12B on Jan 06 19:10 2008

4:The easy route Mod(UK Trad)Can be used as a down climb although since the trees have gone so has the false sense ofsecurity


5:Piton Route VSLast update: NORMAL12B on Jan 06 17:28 2008

6:Cental Buttress E1The first pitch sports a major runout but the climbing is not too demanding. Keep a cool headand pad up to the belay. 1. 5a, 2. 4cLast update: normal12b on May 12 16:20 2008


Avon Gorge (Sector: Main Wall)

Main Wall

Intro

A large steep quarried face with many two and three pitch routes and an adventurous feel. Old in situ equipment abounds. Although this more than anywhere else may be the part of the gorge thatgives it its reputation for seriousness there are some excellent climbs on perfectly adequate gear.

The left hand side contains some excellent single pitch offerings approached by scrambling


Main Wall Left

1:Dire Staits E3The first part of this pitch is scary and often avoided by doing the start of Last Gasp. Abovethe break, a couple of thin moves on the wall lead to the safety of a niche and good gear. 1. 6ALast update: normal12b

2:Last Gasp E2A fun pitch with an exhilerating finish! 1. 5CLast update: normal12b

3:The Corpse HVSThe easiet route up main wall - be careful with loose flakes on pith 2 1. 4C, 2. 4CLast update: normal12b

4:Zombogies Direct E1Last update: Anon

5:The Poacher E3Last update: Anon

6:Maladroit E1Last update: Anon

7:The Litch HVSDelicte climbing on reasonable rock with OK gear

Last update: normal12b

8:The Mal E3The main pitch used to have a reputation for being scary but there are a fair few pegs tofollow although maybe not brand spanking new.A nice route at E3 5C.

1. 4c: Easy peasy2. 5c3. 5b: A thrutch over the roof provides the meat of this pitchLast update: NORMAL12B on Sep 17 12:37 2007

9:The Writing On The wall E3 1. 4C, 2. 5C, 3. 5ALast update: on Feb 12 08:33 2008

10:Bonbogies HVSLast update: Anon

11:Malambo E2 1. 5BLast update: Anon

12:Bogey Man E2 5cSlightly runout climbing on the lower wall leads to an entertaining crux surmounting the roof.Continue up the slab to a short finishing wall 1. 5CLast update: Normal12b on Mar 17 22:41 2009

13:The Old Pretenders E2 1. 5BLast update: Anon

14:Troillus Left Hand E3Climb eaily up to the roof as for the Old Pretenders, move left and over the roof to climb agroove to a ledge. Climb the gearless groove above without falling off! 1. 5CLast update: Normal12b on Mar 17 22:44 2009

15:Troillus Direct E2(UK Trad)Last update: normal12b on May 19 09:40 2008

16:The Beard E4(UK Trad)Last update: normal12b on May 19 09:40 2008

17:Mason's Folly E4Last update: Anon



Main Wall central Area

1:Krapps Last Tape 5bA route with a reputation for seriousness which might only be fairly well deserved providedyou are unlikely to fall off 5a and that you dont provoke the menacingly loose flakes to theright on the upper part of the pitch. The line is complex.The hardest move is climbing down from a good wire

The first 20 feet or so are gearless but not too hard. Then you get a good wire before movingright.

Last update: on Feb 27 09:25 2008

2:Think Pink E3(UK Trad)Starts at a ledges at the foot of the large blank pink wall. Approach va one of the adjacentroutes. Many parties skip the second pitch by escaping up the obvious easy way to the top orabbing off.

1. 6a: Climb a technical bolted wall to a ledge then climb t a groove and flake crack to a belayon a big bushy ledge2. 5c: Goes up the wall left of the belay.Last update: Normal12b on Jul 03 07:50 2009

3:Main Wall Eliminate E4(UK Trad)Sustained climbing through slightly hollow sounding overlaps leads to a rest before tacklingthe crux groove in the headwall on good bolts.

Last update: Anon

4:Central Wall 6aStrenny climbing on what would have passed for good gear before the bolting frenzy of recentyears. It used to get E3. The top groove is the shared crux with its neigbour Main WallEliminate.

No nonesense names these routes!

Last update: Anon

5:Atmospheres E5(UK Trad)A scarier companion to the two routes to the right completes this fine trilogy. Look out forhidden wire when things are getting fraught!

Last update: Normal12b on Jul 14 10:52 2009

6:The Preter E2(UK Trad)An adventure into the heart of main wall! Gentle padding never strenuous but quite runoutalthough the gear is quite adequate where it is most needed. Start at the ash tree as forMalbogies.On pitch 2 the second can be perfectly protected on the traverse by keeping one rope free ofrunners until high up the groove after the traverse.

1. 5a: More or less straight above the ash tree, slabs lead up to a wide gap between twooverhangs in the leftward rising break. Climb up into a prominent groove above the gap witha bush at the top and an in situ thread in a big hole. Pass the hole on the left to joinMalbogies. Continue to the peg belay.2. 5b: Climb back down Malbogies a few meters to a sapling, then traverse left around a ribon promising looking holds into a niche. A couple of reasonable small wires can be placed(no sign of the peg mentioned in CC guide). Reach up left to good flat hold and make acommitting move into a niche then traverse to the foot of a groove and climb about 30ft past acouple of pegs to the break below the big roofs. Traverse left past an obvious groovebreaching the roofs and belay on nuts and friends.3. 5b: Climb delicately onto slabs above the breach and into the orner above. At the next roofgo right and finish rightwards on easy ground taking care with some dubiou rock.Last update: Normal12b on Jul 14 10:35 2009

7:Malbogies HVS(UK Trad)A historic route and one of the easiest nd most popular on Main Wall. Scramble up to start ata long ledge. An ash tree provides as convenient belay as any.

1. 27m 5a: Stroll over to the left of the ledge and climb leftwards up to a grooved rib andfollow this with little protection to a break in the thin band of overlaps (pegs) leading to a whitescoop leading diagonally rightwards (peg) to a rough right trending groove leading more easilyup past a tree on the right to belay on pegs just after a second smaller tree. A direct start canbe climbed to reach the start of the groove via a peg in the overlaps - polished E1.

2. 35m 4c: Continue up the groove to the overhang and pull over on a surprising jug. Teeterright a bit then up to some more roofs which are passed to the left before climbing to a tree ona ledge. Go left from here and follow the groove to the toptaking care with loose rock.Last update: Normal12b on Jun 16 16:54 2009



8:Malicious E2(UK Trad)A rather good route - sometimes a bit bold but steady and mostly on excellent rock. Scambleup to an ash tree on a ledge as for Malbogies.

1. 5b: From the tree go up and right to a grassy ledge then boldly up to a prominent pocket (insitu thread). Step left (taking care of some loose rock)and climb to a projecting block with acrack on it's left (small friend)Get onto the block, below a narrow roof . Find Peg on left and solid friend 2.5 in a boreholeabove the roof. Reach left for layaways, pull over the roof and teeter up to a junction withMalbogies. Continue up the Mlbogies groove to the peg belay.2. 5b: Step down left to enter a wide corner with a pink crytallline patch. Climb boldly to theroof and pull through the obvious weakness. Climb the white corner above stepping left nearthe top to pass a large iolated overhang on the left, Continue up the groove above to the nextline of overhangs and bear left to find the easiest way to the top.Last update: Normal12b on Jul 03 07:11 2009

9:Depravity E1(UK Trad) length:30mAn attractive looking line but poor pegs and some loose holds.

Climb the corner crack, exit left then continue more easily to a belay above the overhangingband.

1. 5b: Climb the obvious crner crack exiting left at the top then wander up to an Iron spike tobelay.Last update: Normal12b on Jul 02 12:03 2009

10:Steppenwolf E3(UK Trad)An excellent pitch with a perfect blend of strenuous and delicate climbing and a great naturalline.Start at the foot of the obvious black streak

1. 5c: Climb a steep crack and pull over a bulge to gain a ramp. Follow this to a bent ironstake and take the steep wall above this to gain a higher ramp. Climb to the obviousweakness in the band of overhangs above pass it with a high rock over onto a short slabbelow a roof. pass the roof on the right to enter a strenuous groove and climb this to exit leftat the top (stake). Step down and left to a belay.Last update: Normal12b on Jul 02 12:07 2009


Main Wall Right

1:Depravity E1Last update: normal12b on Feb 07 09:41 2008

2:Comedy of Errors E4A serious pitch with no gear intil the break is reached at which point a peg provides respite forthe final hard moves. The grade assumes a side runner in Depravity. 1. 5c/6aLast update: NORMAL12B on Jan 31 09:40 2008

3:Steppenwolf E3Superb! 1. 5cLast update: NORMAL12B on Jan 30 22:31 2008

4:Magic Theatre E4Last update: NORMAL12B on Jan 30 22:46 2008

5:Kranz E2Last update: NORMAL12B on Jan 30 22:48 2008

6:Dawn Walk Pitch 1 V DiffApproach for various routes like Peryl

Last update: normal12b on Feb 05 20:12 2008

7:Goth E1A "step" in the big roof provides a narrow hanging slab that crosses the roof. Traverse thiswith difficulty (in situ pegs) and pull strenuously onto the wall above to join Litch Gates. 1. 5bLast update: normal12b on Feb 05 20:08 2008

8:The Evening Light E3Last update: NORMAL12B on Jan 31 09:43 2008

9:Polar Reaches E6Last update: NORMAL12B on Jan 30 22:18 2008

10:Peryl E4(UK Trad) length:60mGreat route - one of Avon's best. Not hard for E4 - it was given E3 in the past. A complex line though and a bit serious in places.

Although the Avon guide gives it an overall length of over 60m it is do-able in one long pitchon 50m ropes as the deviation to the stance on pitch 1 can be avoided.

Start by climbing the first easy pitch of Dawn Walk to reach a spacious belay on a ledge witha tree (Breakfast Ledge).

1. 6a: From the left end of the ledge climb easily up to a peg at the top of a shallow grooveand traverse left to a pathetic peg. Make a committing blind move round an arete to goodholds and continue up left to a small roof where a good big nut can be placed. Pass the roofon the rifht and trend left to reach a ramp which is climed delicately (RPs useful) to a peg andresting niche up right. Now go left and traverse the diagnal line of small roofs (strenuous) andcontinue to bolt belay out left.2. 5c: From the belay, go up to clip a peg and move up and right accross slabby ground pasttwo pegs to a ledge. Go left along the break to enter the awkward hanging groove (peg) Climbpast a small roof to the top.Last update: Normal12b on Jun 22 10:04 2009

11:Changeling E5A very serious first pitch followed by a very hardsecond pitchPitch 1 of Peryl is often the preferred entee.

Last update: NORMAL12B on Jan 30 22:54 2008



12:The Litch Gates E2(UK Trad)Tricky route findig on pitch one with a serious feel followed by a well protected crux pitch. 1. 5a, 2. 5cLast update: ruthclimb on Aug 03 18:30 2008

13:Drang E3Last update: NORMAL12B on Jan 30 22:39 2008

14:Pink Wall Direct Three interesting pitches.

1. 5b: From the right hand side of the ledge, climb up to a prominent thin crack in a corner.Climb this to belay below a band of overhangs.2. 5c: Traverse the overhangs (crux) then climb up and left to some (3?) large quarry spikes inthe pink wall. Swagger up these to belay at a ledge.3. 4b: Traverse leftwards to an exit groove - climb easily to the top.Last update: NORMAL12B on Jan 31 09:57 2008

Avon Gorge (Sector: New Quarry)

New Quarry

No intro available


New Quarry Left

1:Agua Colorado E2Last update: normal12b on Jan 30 20:02 2008

2:Bitter and Twisted 7b(Fr Sport)Last update: tom on Jun 15 11:47 2008

3:Dinosaur Beach 6b+(Fr Sport)Last update: tom on Jun 15 11:47 2008

4:? E1Follow some pegs 1. 5aLast update: normal12b on Jan 30 20:05 2008

5:Fry Crispin Fry E3Last update: Anon

6:Combined Tactics E3Last update: normal12b on Jan 30 20:09 2008

7:Paste 2000 f7ALast update: normal12b on Jan 30 20:13 2008

8:Cymbeline F6cExtra bit of excitement provided by absent last bolt - a few years ago mind.

Last update: normal12b on Jan 30 20:42 2008

9:The Echo E2Last update: normal12b on Jan 30 20:18 2008

10:Cymbal The Pun E3Technically low in the grade with a short strenny crux that involves a quick couple of pulls onslightly dubious holds.

Last update: normal12b on Jan 30 20:21 2008

11:Full Metal Cymbal E3Last update: normal12b on Jan 30 20:26 2008

12:Brutal Dub E4Nice varied climbing involving a crack/flake, a roof (crux) and easier gound above. Some"vintage" pegs. 1. 6aLast update: normal12b on Jan 30 20:25 2008

13:Ready and Waiting f7a+Last update: normal12b on Jan 30 20:29 2008

14:Product of an Unsound Mind E5Last update: normal12b on Jan 30 20:34 2008

15:Exhumation E5Last update: normal12b on Jan 30 20:33 2008



New Quarry Middle

1:Bushmen Dont Surf (UK Trad)This line has been affected by thecollapse of a tottering block.Current grade/ line anyone?

Last update: normal12b on Jun 13 16:41 2008

2:System Z XS(UK Trad)Choss


3:No Strange Delight E3(UK Trad)Good climbing - not too hard. In situ gear but well spaced.


4:Night of the Comic Dead E2(UK Trad)Easy for the grade but with a potential ground fall before reaching the first bolt at 25 ft ish. 1. 5aLast update: normal12b on Jun 13 16:51 2008


Avon Gorge (Sector: Sea Walls)

Sea Walls

No intro available


Last Slip Area

1:Arete Problem V4Last update: Tom on Nov 18 21:01 2007

2:Connoiseur's Choice E2Technical and bold! 1. 6ALast update: Normal12b on Mar 18 07:45 2009

3:Critics Coice E5(UK Trad)Technical wall climbing on tiny crimpy holds - a lone bolt bekons at 15 feet.

The first move to a good hold on top of a spike is difficult indeed mostly due to the fact thatthe only good foothold is polished. From there it is hard but friction is no problem. Probablysince very few are able to get past the first move. If you dare to committ all the way to the boltthey you'redoing well. I would say 20ft is more realistic. Further than you would be happy tofall on to a bouldering matt. 1. 6bLast update: northcave on Sep 27 23:38 2009



4:Ffoeg's Folly E2(UK Trad)The scruffy looking top groove is a lot better than it looks. Excellent and varied climbing. 1. 5a, 2. 5cLast update: Normal12b on Mar 18 07:21 2009

5:Gymslip E4The near vertical wall is split by a thin crack and interspersed with subtle slopey friction holds- delicate and committing. 1. 6ALast update: Normal12b on Mar 18 07:26 2009

6:Ambrose E5(UK Trad) length:9mA short and really varied route. Could be protected with a lone wire at 10ft but only after thefirst hard move to start. From there just don't fall. A bouldering matt might be needed.Otherwise climb Ffoegs Folly to the belay and setup a shunt / toprope.

Start with 3 hard successive crimpy moves. Move up to a shelf and try to progress withoutusing the large holds of each shelf. Doing this sustains the climb with a lovely finished.

Balance, crimpy and bold. Lovely climb. 1. 9m 6bLast update: northcave on Sep 27 23:31 2009

7:Last Slip E3(UK Trad)Excellet, delicate and bold. Climbs the eye catching clean groove right of Foeg's Folly.

1. 5b: Scramble uo a ramp at the foot of the wall and climb blindly up a kind of blunt arete tomantel onto a sandy/gravelly ledge. No Gear! Climb easily up to the belay on Foeg's Folly.2. 5c: Climb rightwards accross slabs to clip a bolt before entering the groove. Teeter up thiswith no further gear until a final technical move gains the safely of a ledge and peg just belowthe top.Last update: Normal12b on Mar 18 07:47 2009

8:Fast Grip E2(UK Trad)Climb easily up to a short groove and continue to a ledge below a short corner.Climb this to stand on a small platform and make an airy but easy move accroos left to standon a slabby area below some steep flakes (PR). Climb the flakes passing 2 or three morepegs to arrive at a platform beneath an obvious detatched block. Swarm up this laybacking orjamming the crack in the corner to arrive at a ledge, climb a short wall to the big ledge andbelay in wires or to the pine tree on the right. 1. 5bLast update: Captain Waterproof on Jun 27 16:26 2008

9:Nightmare HSA very enjoyable climb! - the final moves up to the belay tend to be sandy. 1. 4BLast update: Normal12b on Mar 18 07:47 2009


Jasper Area

1:Smooth Groove 6aLast update: Anon

2:The Independant Route Last update: Anon

3:Floating Voter Last update: Anon

4:5b Groove (UK Trad)Last update: Captain Waterproof on Jun 27 16:25 2008

5:5b Wall 5c?Last update: Anon

6:Jasper HVS 5aAn excellent line but unfortunately extremely polished from the ravages of endless top roping.

1. ?: Climb he corner to a big flake, layback up this to reach a resting place beneath theoverhang. In situ wires can be backed up before makinga couple of thin moves to stand in the groove above. Continue more easily past a ledge toreach BB on a higher ledge.Last update: Tom on Nov 18 20:58 2007

7:Jumping Carrots VSLast update: Captain Waterproof on Sep 29 22:38 2007



Simian Area

1:Nightmare 4aLast update: Anon

2:Edge Master 6bLast update: Anon

3:One Scream's Enough E6 1. 6cLast update: Captain Waterproof on Sep 29 22:44 2007

4:Padanzac 5cLast update: Anon

5:Partial Eclipse (UK Trad) 1. 6bLast update: normal12b on Jun 16 14:00 2008

6:Simian HVS 5aTakes the obvious hanging flake in the corner - enjoyable strenuous climbing

Last update: Tom on Nov 18 21:02 2007

7:Dont Slip E5 6aLast update: Tom on Nov 18 21:03 2007

8:The Aardvark and the Ferret Last update: Anon

9:SOS E4Polished moves above a dubious runner provide the meat of this pitch.

Last update: NORMAL12B on Sep 02 23:31 2007

10:The Independant Route Last update: Anon



Main Face

1:Indecent Exposure E2A varied climb with an advenurous feeling.

1. 5b: The technical crux is in the first ten feet. The mental crux is higher up on the leftwardsrising traverse aproaching the belay.2. 5c: Go up leftwards to reach the ramp. A bold but easy rock over gets you stood on this.Continue up the ramp to a flake. Climb with increacing difficulty to a final hard move left toeasier ground.Last update: Anon

2:Puke HVSA classic route of great character. Start bhind the tree. The original version of pitch 1 probablywarrants E1. This takes the "scary borehole" but can be avoided by climbing the corner andsteps upto the right of the tree. 1. 5a, 2. 5a, 3. 4c, 4. 4aLast update: normal12b on Jul 17 13:20 2008

3:Morpheus V diffQuality climbing at its grade with pleasant climbing and fine positions.

Last update: Anon

4:False Alarms E3A technical test piece of a pitch with spaced but adequate protection particularly above thebig peg in the central recess.

You can start at the second stance of Puke.

1. 6a: Go easily up to the high peg on Puke and you will see a steep line of pockets just toyour right. Climb these with difficulty (good wires) to reach a kind of recess where a rusty butenormous peg greets you.

From here go up left with increacing difficulty following a kind of ramp thing. At the end of thisa tricky move get you onto a ledge and its all over!Last update: normal12b

5:Gronk VS,4c(UK Trad)One of the best routes of this grade in the gorge - with completely differentstyles of crux oneach pitch. The first is steep wallclimbing with a peg by your feet and some small wires toprotect, that feels thin and bold.The second climbs anarrow leaning ramp and then makes anairy and difficult to protect traverse right to the belay of Morpheus. The third is extremlyexposed, hand traversing a beding plane for some 25-30 metres. The last is quite scrappy,and escapes the most attractive exit, the hanging corner above the belay which canbeclimbed at 5a and which provides the most in character finish, bold and airy... 1. 4c, 2. 4c, 3. 4b, 4. 4aLast update: mikekann on Aug 22 11:27 2008

6:The Featherless Biped E4 1. 5b, 2. 6a, 3. 5bLast update: Anon



Puke Area

1:Indecent Exposure E2 1. 5B, 2. 5BLast update: Anon

2:Puke HVSRoute indicated as in previous guide, i.e. original first pitch which is now given E1 5a andworth every penny. 3 blinding pitches, although whether its blinding climbing or you who goesblind with terror remains to be seen. Not to be missed...

Last update: Anon

3:Morpheus VDiff(UK Trad)A classic route with classic Avon polish. Some great climbing and a good place to start.Mainly up Grooves, corners and flakes


4:Gronk VSLast update: normal12b

5:The Featherless Biped E4 1. 5b, 2. 6a, 3. 5bLast update: Anon

6:Sleepwalk S(UK Trad)After starting Morpheus and continuing in a similar vein, the middle section comes as asurprise - delicate and a little runout! Back to corner thuggery for the final pitch (not shownhere)


7:Ffoegs Folly - pitch 1 HVS(UK Trad)Often done in its own right this is a tremendous pitch of laybacking, jamming and desperation.

A nice route to practice solo free climbs with tonnes of gear and solid holds.

Abseil from two recent bolts. 1. 10m 5aLast update: northcave on Sep 27 23:17 2009


Avon Gorge (Sector: Unknown Area)

Unknown Area

No intro available


Wintersol

1:Wintersol E2 length:40m 1. 5bLast update: NORMAL12B on Jan 28 21:26 2008

2:Desecrator HVS 1. 5aLast update: NORMAL12B on Jan 28 21:27 2008



Unknown Wall

1:The Blick E3 length:5mThe first pitch is technically low in the grade but well serious and not one to hang on as it issteep.

The second pitch is a pleasantly sustained and well protected layback. 1. 5a, 2. 5bLast update: Captain Waterproof on Jul 08 12:16 2008

2:Urban Gorilla E3A must for lovers of soft cheese.

1. 5c: Climb easily up to the obvious Roof. Gear is not abundant but some can be foundincluding a crap peg to the left of the roof. Pull over the roof and continue easily to the base ofa cheesy vegetated corner. Climb this on crumbly rock to the capping roof and some welcomepegs, A difficult move over the roof leads to a ledge and logical stance.2. 5a: From the ledge, climb the groove above for 4m then trend rightwards towards an thebreak in the band of overhangs. go up here to the top.Last update: normal12b on Apr 25 23:29 2008

3:Unknown Wall VS(UK Trad)Last update: Captain Waterproof on Jul 08 12:13 2008



Exploding Galaxy Wall

1:Amanitia Muscarina E4 1. 5b, 2. 5c, 3. 6aLast update: NORMAL12B on Jan 03 23:06 2008

2:Captain Swing E3(UK Trad)Alternative finish to yellow edge technically harder and more sustained but less scary. But alot more pumpy fine if you're climbing wall fit. An intersting version can be done by climbingthe first pitch of dragon followed by this pitch. 1. 5cLast update: Normal12b on Aug 25 17:30 2009

3:Yellow Edge E3Clasic Avon adventure. The crux of pitch one is well protected and the finale on pitch three isquite a thrill 1. 5c, 2. 5b, 3. 5bLast update: Normal12b on Aug 25 17:24 2009

4:Dragon E3(UK Trad)This route was in the old guide on the grip list ( you can't fall off) but it's brillliant. Fragile inplaces. Someone from yosemite said we call this stuff mud - maybe. But it's an enjoyableexperience and the 2nd 5c pitch is as sustained 5c climing as there is in the gorge.

Last update: dirk gently on Aug 20 22:09 2008



New Horizons

1:New Horizons E3(UK Trad)Climbs the right side of the slab. Low in the grade

1. 5b: 2. 5bLast update: Normal12b on Oct 16 14:38 2009



Unknown Buttress

1:Hocus Pocus E3(UK Trad) length:52mSustained very fingery climbing on the first pitch.Start beneath an eye catching crystaline crack at about 2 or 3 m.just left of the prominent leftfacing corner of M1.

1. 27m 6a: Climb the crack and step right to a rest on M1 then reach up to clip a bolt. Climbup and left past the bolt on tiny crimps to reach a break (possible no1 wire if you are feelingstrong!) and traverse leftwards on more tenuous holds to a what looks like a resting ledge butisnt. Pull strenuously into a short groove and climb this to the next break. Move left to belayon the arete (as for New Horizons 1)2. 25m 5cLast update: Normal12b on Sep 21 22:09 2009

2:M2 E1(UK Trad) 1. 5bLast update: Normal12b on Aug 25 17:05 2009

3:M1 E1(UK Trad)Climb the obvious corner then pad delicately up to the prominent diagonal break and place agood friend or two (suggest sizes two to three). Teeter slightly down and rightwards along thebreak to a large pocket directly below the finishing groove. Climb the short steep wall (goodwire then bolt out left and thread on the right) to reach the foot of the final groove at the nextbreak. Climb to the top an belay on the fence. 1. 5bLast update: Normal12b on Aug 25 17:22 2009

4:Motorway Madness E4(UK Trad) length:42m 1. 6aLast update: tom on Jul 07 17:18 2008

5:Electra Glide E4(UK Trad) length:43m 1. 6aLast update: Normal12b on Aug 25 17:04 2009

6:Ladder of Desire E3(UK Trad)A good route with a bold bit near the start and an energetic finish. Start in the middle of a 3mwall.

1. 35m 5c: A boulder problem start leads to easy climbing up to a break with pegs out left andright. Teeter up from the break to make a delicate reach for the big sandy break above, pullonto this and place bomber gear (the scary bit is now over!) before moving 2 or 3 m left to apocketed crack leading up slightly right towards a concrete block. From the block go right to agroove that leads with increasing difficulty to the top.Last update: Sully on Sep 16 09:55 2009

7:Cuban Eyes E5(UK Trad) length:33m 1. 6bLast update: tom on Jul 07 17:23 2008

8:The Rebel Yell E5(UK Trad) length:33m 1. 6bLast update: tom on Jul 07 17:24 2008

9:Pigeon's Nest E3(UK Trad) length:20mA good route with a nice crux section protected by a bolt. Climb the slabby rock under the firstcorner (snappy holds). Ascend the corner on huge jugs and good gear to good footholds andnuts below the bolt. Make hard m moves past the bolt to good pockets up and left (clip an oldbolt here to protect the second). Escape left. 1. 6aLast update: tom on Jul 07 17:07 2008

10:I'm 55 E6(UK Trad) length:10m 1. 6cLast update: tom on Jul 07 17:19 2008


Contents

LOCATION: Avon Gorge.............................. 1 TOPO: Avon Gorge Sketch Map ............ 2 SECTOR: Suspension Bridge.................... 3 TOPO: Suspension Bridge Buttress ....... 4 TOPO: Suspension Bridge ................ 6 SECTOR: Ampitheatre.......................... 7 TOPO: The Amphitheatre ................. 8 SECTOR: Main Area............................ 9 TOPO: Morning Slab Left ................ 10 TOPO: Morning Slab Right ............... 12 TOPO: Cental Buttress .................. 13 SECTOR: Main Wall............................ 14 TOPO: Main Wall Left ................... 15 TOPO: Main Wall central Area ........... 16 TOPO: Main Wall Right .................. 18 SECTOR: New Quarry........................... 20 TOPO: New Quarry Left .................. 21 TOPO: New Quarry Middle ................ 22 SECTOR: Sea Walls............................ 23 TOPO: Last Slip Area ................... 24 TOPO: Jasper Area ...................... 26 TOPO: Simian Area ...................... 27 TOPO: Main Face ........................ 28 TOPO: Puke Area......................... 29 SECTOR: Unknown Area......................... 30 TOPO: Wintersol ........................ 31 TOPO: Unknown Wall ..................... 32 TOPO: Exploding Galaxy Wall ............ 33 TOPO: New Horizons ..................... 34 TOPO: Unknown Buttress ................. 35

Avon Gorge Climbing Guide

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