Athens - Greece - (in English)

7/30/2019 Athens - Greece - (in English)

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A

thens, having been inhabited since the Neolithic age, is

considered Europes historical capital. During its long,

everlasting and fascinating history the city reached its

zenith in the 5th century B.C (the Golden Age of Pericles),

when its values and civilisation acquired a universal significance

and glory. Political thought, theatre, the arts, philosophy, science,

architecture, among other forms of intellectual thought, reached

an epic acme, in a period of intellectual consummation unique in

world history.

Therefore, Athens constituted the cradle of western civilisation.

A host of Greek words and ideas, such as democracy, harmony,

music, mathematics, art, gastronomy, architecture, logic, Eros, eu-

phoria and many others, enriched a multitude of lan-

guages, and inspired civilisations.

Over the years, a multitude of conque-

rors occupied the city and erected

splendid monuments of great signifi-

cance, thus creating a rare historical

palimpsest.

Driven by the echo of its classical past,

in 1834 the city became the capital of the modern Greek state.

During the two centuries that elapsed however, it developed into

an attractive, modern metropolis with unrivalled charm and great

interest.

Today, it offers visitors a unique experience. A journey in its

6,000-year history, including the chance to see renowned monu-

ments and masterpieces of art of the antiquity and the Middle

Ages, and the architectural heritage of the 19th and 20th cen-

turies. You get an uplifting, embracing feeling in the brilliant light

of the attic sky, surveying the charming landscape in the environs

of the city (the indented coastline, beaches and mountains), and

enjoying the modern infrastructure of the city and unique verve

of the Athenians.

Year-round visitors are fascinated by Athens, one of the most at-

tractive and charming capitals of Europe.


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The Olympieion includes thesanctuary (temple) ofOlympian Zeus, Roman baths,classical houses as well as a sec-tion of the ancient citys fortifi-cation wall. According to thegeographer Pausanias, the tem-ple of Olympian Zeus wasfounded by Deukalionas,a mythical ancestor of theGreeks. In the age of tyrrany,circa 515 BC, Peisistratos theyounger grandson of the tyrantPeisistratos, attempted to re-place the old temple with a

new, more impressive temple.The tyranny, however, wasabolished and construction

work was terminated. The con-struction of the new temple

was later assigned to theRoman architect DecimusCossutiusby the king of Syria

Antiochus IV Epiphanes.Antiochus died in 163 BC andthe construction of the temple

was once again abandoned.

The structure did not have aroof and pediment. The con-struction of the temple, whichranks among the biggest in an-tiquity, was completed in 131

AD by the Roman EmperorHadrian. It is of Corinthianorder (110m in length andapproximately 44m in width),

three rows of eight columns atthe narrow sides and two rowsof twenty columns at its longsides. Inside the temple there

was a gold and ivory statue ofZeus which does not existtoday.

Ilissos Valley. The surviv-ing section of theIlissos rivervalley (right behind the templeof Olympian Zeus) is worth a

visit. In antiquity the Ilissos riv-er was known as the sacred riv-er of the Muses. Scattered re-mains of ancient sanctuariesare located in the valley. You

will find nearby the rock of theKalliroi spring which was fa-mous in antiquity and thechurch of , which

was built in 1872 at the site ofan ancient temple, on the foun-dation of the sacred sanctuary

of Ekati. You will find nearby,the preserved monuments ofthe Classical, Roman, andByzantine age, among others,(the Temple of Apollo Delphinios,

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ANT IQUITI ES IN ATH ENS

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TOUR OF ATHENS, stage 1

NTIQUITIESIN THENS

A3-kilometre pedestrian zone (the biggest inEurope) has been established in central roads(Vas. Olgas Str, D. Areopagitou Str, Ap. Pavlou Str,Adrianou Str. and a section of Ermou Str)

leading to the major archaeological sites of Athens(archaeological park).Visitors to the section from Dionyssiou Aeropagitou

(opposite Hadrians Arch) to the crossroadsof Ermou Str and Piraeus Str (in the Kerameikos area)

may enjoy the ancient landscape in a tranquilsetting of the city.

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the Temple of Cronos and Rhea, a

Byzantine quarter with workshops,

and Leonidis Church).

Following the con-struction of thetemple of Zeus, theAthenians, in 131AD, in honour ofEmperor Hadrian,built an arch on the

northwestern perime-ter of the temple. The

monument is 18m tall and 13m

wide while the arch, built ofPentelic marble, bears two in-scriptions on the architraveover the arch. One inscription,facing the Acropolis and theold town (facing west), says:This is Athens, the city of

Theseus.The other inscription,facing the sanctuary and an ex-tension of Athens constructedby Hadrian, (facing east), says:This is the city of Hadrian, not

Theseus.

Dionyssiou Aeropagitou Stris one of the most impres-sive streets of Athens, offeringan extraordinary view of thesouthern slopeof the Acropolis,

where some of the citys mostsignificant monuments stand,and the Parthenon. Most of the

buildings on one side of theroad facing south were con-structed in the late 19th centu-ry and the early 20th centuryin the neoclassical or mod-ernist style, reflecting the bour-geois style of the street.

Directions: Enter the ar-chaeological area on thesouthern slope of the Acropolis(entrance atDionyssiou

Areopagitou Str), and descend.On the slope to your right isthe most ancient theatre of the

world, the Theatre of Dionysos.In this theatre, the most famousancient Greek poets,Aeschylus,

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TOUR OF ATHENS, stage 1 ANTIQUITIES IN ATHENS

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Aristophanes, Euripides,andSophocles saw premiere per-formances of their plays in the5th century BC. The auditoriumand the proscenium were madeof wood. In the 4th century BCthey were reconstructed usingmarble. Sections of the stoneauditorium survive. Accordingto experts, the theatre had a ca-pacity of 17,000. On the slopeoverlooking the theatre, sculpt-

ed on the rock of theAcropolis, is the choregic

(319 BC)and two choregic Corinthiancolumns.

Above the theatre is the Stoa

of Eumenes, which wasbuilt by the King of Pergamum,Eumenes IIin the 2nd centuryBC. The arch provided shelterto theatregoers in case of bad

weather or shade from the sun.Nearby are the ruins of the

, which wasbuilt in 429 BC, following theplague, which decimated thepopulation.

The Odeion of HerodesAtticus was built in 161 ADby the wealthy HerodesTiberius Claudius Atticus, ateacher and philosopher, whoinherited a fortune from his fa-ther. Herodes Atticus construct-ed the covered Odeion in

memory of his wife Regilla.Ancient Greeks organisedevents in the Odeion.Nowadays, the 5,000-seat the-atre is a venue for concerts of

theAthens Festival (page136). You may enjoy thebeauty and charm ofthe Odeion in amorning stroll onthe way to the

The Acropolis is thesymbol of Athens, the sa-cred rock, linking the fabulous

ancient civilisation with themodern city.

The monuments onthe Sacred Rockdate back to theprehistoric era

and antiquity.The grandeurand beauty ofthe Sacred Rock

attract Greekand foreign visitors.

A visit to theAcropolis is a unique ex-

perience.

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adorned with monuments,is the grand entrance of the

Acropolis. The Propylaea,built by Pericles in 437-432BC, were the work of thefamous Athenian archi-

tect, Mnesikles. Theywere incorporated in thewall which has been pre-served until today and was

built during the first half of the5th century B.C., in place of theolder destroyed Cyclopean

wall. Before reaching thePropylaea, you will pass

through the , part ofthe Roman fortifications of the

Acropolis. Right after that youwill encounter a 13 m. highpedestal, known as the

, on which theAthenians in 27 B.C. erected astatue of the Roman Marcus

Agrippa, benefactor of the city.

south of the Propylaea, was

built circa 420 BC in commem-oration of the victory of theGreeks against the Persians.The temple was the work

of the architect Kallikrates.The site was the location ofa sancturary in the prehistoricera. To the left of the temple

you will find the Erechtheion.Facing the temple is the

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is an architectural masterpieceof great renown. You will ap-preciate its splendour if you

visit, and learn aboutthe history and the se-crets of the construc-tion of theParthenon. Thisunique temple,dedicated to thegoddess Athena,was built ofPentelic marble.The Parthenon ofthe classical erawas built on theremains of themonumental

earlierParthenon, an ar-chaic templebuilt in the late6th century BC.

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The architects of the classicaltemple, which was constructedand decorated from 447-432BC(in the golden century of

Pericles), were IktinosandKallikrates. It is a Doric peri-pteral temple with 8 columnson the front and the back and17 columns on each side. Inthe Parthenon stood the chry-selephantine statue of Athena,the work of the famous sculp-tor Pheidias, who was also incharge of the overall construc-tion. The statue was the desti-nation of the great procession

of the Panathenaea, depictedon the frieze of the temple.

According tomythology, thename of the cityis connected

with a rivalry be-tween Poseidonand Athena for

the guardianship of the city.Poseidon offered the Atheniansa horse, while Athena, struckthe rock of the Acropolis withher spear, and an olive treesprouted. The Athenians pre- ferred the olive tree, which

symbolised peace and prosperi-ty. The city was named after

Athena. The 12-metre high stat-ue stood in the Parthenon. Theinterior of the statue was madeof wood, while the nude parts

were made of ivory. The re-movable robe and the helmet

were coated with gold plating.The statue, which representedthe goddess Athena bearingarms, and on her right hand a2-metre high ivory statue of

victory, was lost in the earlyByzantine era. Ancient sources,

and the analytical descriptionsof Pausanias(2nd century

AD), testify tothe existenceof the statue.

Archaeologists

have derivedinformationabout the statuefrom copies.The most fa-mous copyis theVarvakeios

Athena.

was built from 420-406 BC atthe most holy site

of the Acropolis,where goddessAthena planted theolive tree, her sa-cred symbol. Thetree was later de-stroyed by Persianinvaders. Accordingto mythology, fol-lowing the expul-sion of thePersians, the treemiraculouslysprouted again.

The figures of themaidens support-ing the roof of the southernbalcony of the temple arecopies. Five of the six Maidensthat once adorned the templeare displayed in the AcropolisMuseum, while the sixth is dis-

played in the British Museum.

(pages 45, 90-91)

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Please be patient when you ascend

the holy rock. You will be

rewarded by the spectacular view

at the top.

You will pass through the

Propylaea before you arrive

at the Parthenon.

The view from the temple

of the Athena Victory is

spectacular.

The slight bulge of the

columns of the Parthenon

gives the impression that

they are bending

under the weight

of the roof.

The secret of the

harmony of the

Parthenon is that

there is not a

straight line in the

design. Dont be deceived bythe optical illusion of the

columns, which appear

to bulge.

The Erechtheion is a unique

temple constructed

according to the style

of ancient Athens. It is

constructed on two levels.

It is asymmetrical and has

two balconies, which are

not thematically connected

to each other. The small

balcony on the south side isbetter known, mainly due

to the six Caryatids that

support the roof. The

differences between the

sections of the temple may

be due to the fact that the

various parts are dedicated

to various gods. The eastern

section was dedicated to

Athena Poliada, and the

western section to PoseidonErechtheus.

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The Areios Pagos, veneratedin antiquity, is the most an-cient law court of the world. It

was the seat of the first aristo-cratic assembly of ancient

Athens. The assembly graduallylost political influence and inthe latter half of the 5th centu-ry, it retained solely its func-

tion as a court, mostly hearingmurder cases. The Oresteiade-scribes the trial at this court of

Orestes for the murder of hismother Clytemnaestra, and herloverAegisthus. Apostle Paulspoke to the Athenians at the

Areios Pagos in 51 AD.A bronze plaque on the baseof the hill commemorates hissermons.

Well worth a visit any timeof the year. A walk atPhilopappou Hill is a fascinat-ing experience: you will find

here a magnificent park, im-portant monuments such as thealleged the

the ancient, which was a mer-

cantile boulevard with shopsand houses, the

the PhilopappusMonument and the spectacular

view of the Parthenon and theAcropolis.

The Pnyx is situated betweenthe (the lo-cation of PhilopappusMonument) and the

, (the location of theSanctuary of the Nymphs and

the National Observatory,page 47). The semicircularsquare was after 6th century BCthe location of the assembly

of the people of Athens. Theygathered here to hear oratorsspeak from a rock platform inthe centre of the Pnyx, and par-ticipate in the democraticpolity. The assembly is thoughtto have a capacity of 10,000.

The archaeological area of

the ancient Agora is locatedon the foothills of the

Acropolis, near metro stopThission. In antiquity, the

Agora was not solely a com-mercial centre. It was also animportant political, cultural andreligious centre. In the area ofthe agora were located admin-istrative buildings, temples,public services and courts. The

Athenians gathered here every

day to buy and sell their goods,learn the current news, criticisethe government, exchange

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Philopappus Monumentwas built by Athenians in the2nd century BC in honour ofthe benefactor, ruler of Syria,Gaius Julius Antiochus. Gaius

Julius was also known asPhilopappus, which roughly

translated means one wholoves his grandfather. Hisgrandfather was the last King ofKommagini Antiochus IV.

Cobbled road. In the1950s the Greek architect D.Pikionis developed the designof the area encompassing the

Prolylaea of the Acropolis andPhilopappou Hill. Take note of

the hand made cobbled roadsleading to the monuments,the church of Ayios DemetriosLoumbardiaris(page 25)and the refreshment room.The area has been designateda Scheduled and ProtectedMonument of the GlobalCultural Heritage.

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ideas, or engage in discussion.The area was settled in theNeolithic age. The monumentslocated there

were built invarious histori-cal periods:from the clas-sical age to the11th century

AD. The church ofwas built in the 11th

century AD (page 24).

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Thission (Theseion) - Temple of Hephaistos.The Thission was dedicated to HephaistosandAthena, and notTheseus. It is located in the western perimeter of the Agora. It isthe best-preserved temple of antiquity. It was built in 460-415 BC.In the temple stood the statues ofHephaistosandAthena, thoughtto have been sculpted byAlkamenes.

The monument of the Eponymous Heroes. Herestood the statues of the ten heroes of Attica (4th century BC). Theten clans of Attica were named after the heroes. Public announce-ments were displayed on the pedestal of these statues.

PoikileStoa. It is thought thatthe Poikile Stoa derivedits name from the vari-ety of the colours andthemes of its frescoes.The name Poikile (poikile means diverse) leads us to the suppo-

sition that the frescoes here were painted in a variety of coloursand themes. Here Zinon taught Stoicphilosophy, which wasnamed after thePoikile Stoa (460 BC).

The Stoa of Attalus. The Stoa of Attalus, a two-floorbuilding, was donated by the King of PergamumAttalus II(159-138 BC) to the city of Athens. It is thought to have been a kind ofancient commercial centre with 21 shops on each floor. The col-lection of the Museum displays everyday objects, which were un-earthed in excavations in the ancient Agora. Visitors may get anidea of everyday life in ancient Athens.

The Basileios Stoa. The Basileios Stoa, constructed

circa 500 BC, is located on the foothills of the Theseion. It was theseat of theArchon Vasileusand the council of theAreios Pagos.

Odeion of Agrippa. Built by Agrippa in 15 B.C.It could seat 1,000 spectators and had a two-storeyed portico.It was destroyed in 267 A.D. by the Herulians and in 400 A.D.the Gymnasium was built in its place. On the north side four largestatues of Giants and Tritons, salvaged from the Odeion, wereplaced on pedestals. Three of these statues still exist.

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T

he Roman Agora (in thePlaka area) was an architec-

tural complex, built between19 and 11 B.C., consisting ofa large rectangular court sur-rounded by colonnades (stoas).Behind the stoas were variousshops.

Gate of AthenaArchegetis. Located at the

west side of the area. A monu-mental gateway with four Doriccolumns and a pediment ofPentelic marble, preserved inexcellent condition.

Kyrristus Clock Towerof the Winds. On the east-ern side of the Roman Agora

stands an octagonal monument.The Clock of AndronicusKyrristus , constructed in the 1stcentury BC, was a hydraulicclock. On each face of theclock can be seen bas-reliefs ofthe eight winds. The monu-ment has taken its name Winds

from the depictions.

Vespasianes (public lava-tories). Rectangular building

with anteroom and squareroom with benches with holesin them on all four sides and asewage canal underneath (1stcentury A.D.), named after

Roman emperorVespasianus.

FetihieMosque.(page 27)

It is situated north of theRoman Agora (the entranceis on 3 Areos St). It is a rectan-gular building measuring 122mx 82m with a Corinthian propy-lon on the west side. It wasbuilt by Roman emperorHadrian in 132 A.D. It formeda colonnade with specific areas

used for the storage of papyrus-es and books, lecture halls etc.There was a courtyard in thecenter. In this courtyard anEarly Christian Church wasbuilt during the 5th century

A.D., which was later destroyedand replaced by a7th century three-aisled and an 11thcentury single-aisledbasilica.

The ancientKerameikos waslocated in the north-

western outskirts of

Athens. It was partly enclosedby, and partly beyond, the wallsthat divide the area of the exca-vation. In the centre of the ar-

chaeological site are the twobest known arches of ancient

Athens, the where thePanathenaic procession wouldstart and the ,

where the sacred way wouldbegin and the

procession would passthrough (page 115). In the

vicinity of the arches was themost ancient and the biggestcemetery of Attica. Moreover

it was the place of burial of citi-zens who were honoured bythe city of Athens. Accordingto the geographer Pausanias,the location was named afterKeramos. However, the place

was most likely named after theneighbourhood of the ker-ameoi (potters). (The definitionof Kerameikos is something re-lated to ceramics of potters).The neighbourhood of the ker-

ameoi was established on thebanks of the river . Youcan see the riverbed in the ar-chaeological area. The ancientDemos of Kerameikos covereda large area. Only part of it has

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been unearthed in excavations.It is thought that the area of theKerameikos was bounded by thenorth-western perimeter of the

Agora on one side and the copsethat was named after the heroAkademos, on the other side.

Tombs and ste-lae (columns).The Kerameikos ismainly known for itstombs and columns.The copy of the mar-ble bull in the enclo-sure of the tomb ofDionysus fromKollytos, and thecopy of the famouscolumns ofDexileosandHegeso(late 5th century BC).If you want to see the original

sculpture of the Dexileos tombstele, as well as other finds ofthe excavation, please visit theMuseum. The tomb stele of

Hegesois displayed in theNational ArchaeologicalMuseum (page 87).

TheKerameikosMuseum. Is locat-ed in the archaeo-logical site ofKerameikos. It dis-plays very signifi-cant finds of the ex-cavation of Kera-meikos, includingfuneral gifts foundin tombs andscrulptures adorn-ing tombs of the ar-

chaic and classical periods.

The Public Memorial.A section of the ancient ceme-

tery, including the tombs ofpublic figures and a multitudeof the graves of soldiers fallenin battle, was recently excavat-ed near the archaeological areaof Kerameikos (at 35, SalaminasStr).

The area was inhabited inthe prehistoric age (in the6th century BC one of the threefamous Gymnasia of Athens wasfounded here). It is named afterthe hero Akademos, or Ekadi-mos. However, it is known afterthe famous philosophicalschool founded by Plato (neigh-bourhood Akademia Platonos) in387 BC. The school was a focal

point of the prestigious Neopla-tonist philosophers. Today, thearchaeological site is developing

within a park. It occupies a sur-face of approximately 37 acres,between Athinon Avenue andLenorman Avenue (access fromthe streetsMonastiriou, FaonosandDrakondos).

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Every year the ancient Atheni-ans celebrated the Mikra(small) Panathenaea, andevery four years they cele-brated the Megala (great)Panathenaea, which weregrander and included horse racing, athletic contests, com-petitions in music and other activities. On the last day ofthe festival, a procession began at Kerameikos, (the prepa-ration of the procession would take place in a large 5thcentury B.C. building with a peristyle central court named

Pompeion next to the Dipylon). The procession passedthrough theAgoraand ascended theAcropolis, where a veilnamed Peplon was offered to goddessAthena. Accordingto custom, during the festival, statues were covered withreal clothes. The robe of the gods was basically a woollentunic, woven by a priestess assisted by young virgins. It wasplaced on the mast of a large wooden boat as its sail andcarried to the Acropolis. The procession followed the boat.This procession is depicted on the frieze of the Acropolis.

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The Sacred Residenceof the Geometric period

consists of seven rectangularspaces. It has the same featuresas the sacred residence ofEleusina. Remnants of sacri-fices found at the residenceseem to indicate that intensive

worship took place here.

The Gymnasium.The Gymnasium is a large rec-tangular building (1st centuryBC 1 century AD), with an in-

ternal peristyle and rooms onthe northern side. In theGymnasium is a small area thatserved as an arena.

The Peristyle building.A large rectangular building(4th century BC) with an interi-or peristyle. It is thought to bean arena or an annex of theGymnasium.

The Early Greek Arched

Residence. It consists of ahall, a chamber and a storageroom. It is thought to be theprehistoric residence of

Akademos.


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of the bishops from theParthenon by the Franksand later the Turks.From 1839 to 1842

it was used as a library.The new Metropolisnearby was built from1842 and 1862 as thecathedral of Athens.It is a domed churchbuilt in the neobyzan-

tine and neo-classical style.

The Kapnikarea is a cruci-form, domed Byzantinechurch with a dome dedicatedto the Presentation of the VirginMary. The original building wasconstructed in the 11th centu-ry. Construction was completedin the 13th century. It has had

various names: Camoucharea,Chrysocamouchariotissa, Panayiatis Vasilopoulas (Virgin of theKings daughter). In 1834, theyear of the construction ofErmou Str, the authorities con-sidered plans to relocate thechurch, or demolish it, since it

was located in the middle of

Ermou Str, and was a hindranceto traffic. However, thanks tothe intervention ofLudwig ofBavaria, father of King Otto, and

Neofytos Metaxas, Bishop ofTalantioand Bishop of Athens,the church was preserved at thepresent location.

is located near the Anafiotikaarea of Plaka. The church wasbuilt in the 11th century. It waspart of the Palace of the Ranga-

vas family. Michael I, Emperorof Byzantium, was descendedfrom this family. The areaaround the church was formerlycalled Rangavas.

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BYZANTINE MONUMENTS IN ATHENS

This charming church is lo-cated near the new

Cathedral.It was built in the

late 12th century. Itis dedicated to Gorgoe-

pikoos Panayia (the VirginMary) andAyios Eleftherios.

Ancient and Byzantine bas-re-liefs were used for the con-struction of the church. In thefaade is an ancient frieze, tak-en from a monument of the 4thcentury B.C. depicting officialattic festivals. The church wasthe official Episcopal Seat of

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BEMONUMENTS IN ATHENS

The 11th and the 12th centuries are thoughtto beMost of the better known and more important

Byzantine churches of Athens were built in these twocenturies as part of a Christian reconstruction followingthe campaigns of Emperor Basil II in the Balkans. Some

of the better-known monasteries were also foundedin the same period in the suburbs of Athens.


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Byzantine frescoes of the churchof Ayios Spyridonas, which hasbeen demolished, were trans-ported to Ayioi Apostoloi.

It is a three-aisled basilica builtin the 10th century. Thechurch belonged to the mona-stery of Koimesi tis Theotokoufrom which the districts nameis derived (Monastiraki) In theolder days it was a dependencyof the Kaisariani Monastery (page 105).

is a beautiful basilica of the 16thcentury, with remarkable fres-coes. According to prevailingtradition its name(Loumbardiaris orBombardiaris)

was derived from an incidentthat occurred in the 17th centu-

ry when the Christians believedthat Saint Demetrios protectedthem from a great Turkish can-non (Loumbarda) located there.

A

cruciform church builtin the 11th century, with

carved stone blocks, framedby bricks, while in places sub-sequent Islamic influenceis obvious.

Asmall chapel built in the12th century, it was namedafter a Roman column, pre-

served in the interior.AyiosIoannis o Vaptistiswas thoughtto be a healer of all sicknessesof the head. Visitors may seeon the column offerings to theSaint offered by the faithful ex-pressing gratitude for his help.

The church was reconstruct-ed in the late 11th centuryon the foundation of a churchthat was built in the 9th centu-

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is located near the(page 32), in the

square bearing the same name.Shading the church is a palmtree. It was constructed from11th-12th century. In the cornerof the square are the ruins ofa roman monument.

is a very beautiful cruciformchurch of the 11th-12th centu-ry. It is located at the cross-roads ofErotokritou StrandErechtheos Str. It has been reno-vated several times.

is better known as Ayia Sotira.It is located at KythathinaeonStr, opposite the Museum ofGreek Folk art, in the Plakaarea. It was built in the 11th-12th century. It has been reno-

vated several times.

It is located atErechtheos Str.It is a small monastery be-

longing to the Holy Sepulchreof Jerusalem. The church of themonastery, wasbuilt in the 17th century.

O

ne of several churches inAnafiotika. According to

popular belief, the miraculousicon of the church protects be-lievers in difficult circum-stances.

is the biggest medieval buildingof Athens. Built in 1031, it was

part of a Roman Catholicmonastery that closed in 1701.In the 1850s the building wasrenovated by Tsar Alexander II

who donated a bell-tower.Sotira Lykodimou is the RussianOrthodox Church of Athens.

is located in the compound ofthe Ancient Agora excavation.It is one of the oldest churchesof Athens (1000-1025 AD). It

was constructed on the ruins ofa Roman nympheum of the 2ndcentury. In the 1950s, followinga renovation, it was restoredto its original form. Many post-

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The (orKato Sintrivaniou), located inMonastiraki Square, was built in1759 by the Turkish voivodMoustafa Agas (or Tzistarakis).Seeking lime for the construc-tion of the Mosque, Tzistarakisremoved the 17th column of the

(page 5). TheMosque has a loggia with fourcolumns and two rows of four

windows on each side. Since1981 it has housed the Museumof Traditional Ceramics. In

Athens, there is only onemosque open to the public, theTzistarakis Mosque. Near the

(page 18) isthe remarkable ,built in 1458 in honour ofMohamed II the Conqueror, onthe occasion of his visit to

Athens.

27


ry. It was built by N. Kalomaos,who was a Spatharocandidatos(a rank of the Byzantine Court).

built in the 12th century,it belongs to thePetraki Monastery(18th century). Inthe cross-domedchurch visitors maysee frescoes datingback to 1719.

is a small church located ina large cave in Lycabettus Hill.It was formerly called AyiosSidereas church. It was burnedin 1930 and reconstructedin 1931.

is a whitewashed church at thetop of Lycabettus Hill. You canreach the church on foot, or byfunicular. It is thought that in

antiquity the temple ofAkraios Zeuswas locat-

ed here. In the periodof Frankish rule, thesmall chapel ofProfitis Iliaswasbuilt here. Later

Ayios Georgios the

Riderwas built here.

The exact date of theconstruction of thechurch is not known.

The church bell was donat-ed by Princess Olgawho putthe ruined church under herprotection.26


T H E S I G H T S :

Athens was conquered by the Ottomans in 1456and liberated in 1833. Remarkable buildingsof the period have been preserved.

The OldBaths(Hamam Abit

Efendi), in Plaka(at Kyrristou 8),built in the 17th century, werea popular meeting place in theOttoman era. The Old Bathshave been renovated and theyhouse theMuseum of Cleanlinessand Body Embellishment as well asmany artistic and cultural events.

The gate of the Muslim semi-nary, at the crossroads ofAeolou Str and Pelopida Str, isthe remains of the building,

which was destroyedin a fire in 1911.

According to an in-scription above theentrance, the semi-nary was built in 1721

and consisted of amain building, whichwas a school andmosque, buildingshousing the studentsand teachers (hodjia),kitchen and hygieneareas, and a centralcourt.

1

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3

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17

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OTTOMAN MONUMENTSINATHENS


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In the early 1930s, buildings

with more than two or three

floors - the usual number of

floors of buildings at the time -

were constructed. These small

blocks of flats, which

sometimes had six floors,

introduced a Greek variety of

the international modernist

architectural style (Bauhaus,

Art Deco). The main

characteristic of buildings

constructed in this period, (aswell as the preceding period),

are the semicircular ledges,

and the facades. A multitude

of these buildings are thought

to be important monuments

exemplifying the global

history of the modernist style.

In the post-war era, the popu-

lation of Athens and demand

for housing rapidly increased.

In the 1950s and the early

1960s, buildings with marble

facades, parapets, and imposing

entrances were in vogue. From

1960-1975 (the development

era) the mass construction of

dull modern buildings was in

vogue, altering the physio-

gnomy of the new neighbour-

hoods. Quality buildings were

also constructed in this era. Inthe past few decades, following

a period of stagnation, Athens

has acquired important new

(predominantly public)

buildings, giving the city a new

splendour, and upgrading

depressed areas.

M

29was from 1834 to the 1920sthe predominant architecturalstyle of the small city

which was situated in whatis today the historical centre.The style of neoclassicism,

which was in vogue in West-ern Europe, was a productof the romantic fascination

with antiquity. It wasintroduced by Germanarchitects who came toGreece in the early 1830s toplan Athens. In the interwarera and especially after 1955,a number of Athensneoclassical buildings weretorn down. However, inmany areas of the historicalcentre, the charming,neoclassical style has beenpreserved.

In the late 19th century the

tradition of neoclassicism was

enriched by the romantic

aesthetic, usually following the

French style. Although

Athenian classicism remained

the predominant architectural

style, public and private

buildings were constructed in

this period in a breezy style,

influenced by the decorative

style in vogue in Western

Europe.

This radical movement was not

established as a major

architectural trend in Athens.

However, after 1920, Greek

bourgeois from Smyrna, Egypt,

and Constantinople constructed

residences following the art

nouveau style. The few,

impressive art nouveau build-

ings contrasted with theuniform neoclassical and

eclectic architecture prevailing

in Athens.

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THE ARCHITECTURE of MODERN ATHENS

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beauty and atmosphere of theneighbourhood are enchanting.In Plaka the air you breathe isdifferent; it is lighter, cleaner,

and fragrant, like a gift ofthe gods. When you visitPlaka you shouldbring a map, be-cause you mightget lost in the labyrinthof narrow streets and al-leys. InAdrianou Street,the central street of theneighbourhood, as in otherstreets in the area, you will findshops selling traditional prod-

ucts, souvenirs, Greek folk artand handicrafts, etc.

the central square of the neigh-bourhood, was named after theFilomousos Etairia (The Societyof the Friends of the Muses, inother words, the nine gods ofthe Arts), which was foundedin 1813. The purpose of theSociety was the promotion ofGreek studies and the preserva-tion of the archaeological treas-ures of Athens. At the square,located at the crossroads ofKydathinaion Str, Farmaki Str,

Olympiou Dios Str and Angelou

Geronda Str, are a multitude ofcafes, restaurants, clubs with

live music and souvenir shops.

located at Kidathinaion Str is awonderful place for children.In the attic is a reconstructedroom with old furniture, a ra-dio, and theatre in the style of

old Athenian homes, namedgranddad and grandmothersroom, where children may

dress with period dresses.

The Museum housesamong others, an exhibi-tion of paintings by

children, old toys,a fairground and alibrary. If you havechildren, be sureto visit the

Childrens Museum.Its, also, worth seeing theneighbouring

(9, Kodrou str.),

which, among other things, ex-hibits in its premises paintingsand three dimentional artworksby children up to 14 years oldfrom all over Greece, which arerenewed on a regular basis.

In ancient Athens, theatricalperformances held at the the-

31

HISTORIC CENTRE (1)

Plaka, also known as theneighbourhood of thegods, is the oldest neighbour-hood of Athens. Walking on itspaved narrow streets you getthe feeling that you are travel-ling back in time. The origin ofthe name of the neighbourhoodis unknown, although theoriesabound. According to popular

belief, Plaka was named aftera slab of stone that was foundnear the church ofAyiosGeorgios Alexandrias, in the

vicinity of the theatre ofDionysos. The beautiful neo-classical style colour of thehouses, the architecture, the

well-kept gardens, and the

30


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and AlexandraKanellopoulosto theGreek state. It ishoused in the neoclas-

sical mansion of theMihalea family. TheKanellopoulos collec-tion consists of archae-ological finds and

works of art from theprehistoric era tomodern times.

(page 18)

(page 22-24)

(page 27)

Adistinctive old Athens

area, with narrow, irregu-larly criss-crossing streets, andsmall buildings, characteristicof Ottoman and to some extentByzantine urban planning. Onthe outdoor stands of streetsellers, or the small shops onthe central roads (Adrianou Str,Pandrosou Str, Ifaistou Str,

Thiseiou Str, Ayiou Filippou Str,

Astigos StrandErmou Str) you

can find anything, such asshoes, clothes, old and newfurniture, old books and maga-zines, souvenirs, jewellery, hats,bronze objects, new and usedrecords and CDs and tradition-al Greek instruments (bouzouki,touberleki). Shopping or walk-ing in Monastiraki is an unfor-

gettable experience. You willbe stunned by the variety andquality of things you can buyin the market.

Historic Square, fully renovat-ed, paved with colourful stonesand paving blocks forming amulti-coloured mosaic. In thebackground, one can see the

(page 9) andthe (page 30). In this

magnificent square, significantmonuments from many differ-ent historic eras coexist. Suchmonumental sites are the

(page27), (page19), the Byzantine church of

(page 25). Ofparticular interest also is the

33

HISTORIC CENTRE (1)

atre of Dionysos were fundedby wealthy citizens, the donors.The city gave a prize to thedonor of the winning per-formance. When the

wealthy Lysikrateswon the prize in 334BC, he constructed amonument to houseit. The monument ispreserved (ancientTripodon Str- pave-ment of the road ispreserved in a specialspace in a renovatedbuilding at number 28). The

monument has had a long andvaried history. In 1658, aCapuchin monastery wasfounded here. In 1669, Capu -chins bought the monument.Lord Byron stayed at the mona-stery in his second visit toGreece. In the gardens the cul-tivation of the tomato, hithertounknown in Greece, was intro-duced.

on the foothills of the Acropolis,has the charm of a beautiful is-

land village. It was built

in the mid 19th centu-ry by the renownedbuilders of the Aegeanisland of Anafi, whowere invited to con-struct the palace ofthe first king of theHellenes, Otto(page 53). Feeling nos-talgic for their birth-

place in their long stayin Athens they recreated it in

the upper area of Plaka. Theybuilt small, whitewashed hous-es, reproducing the architecturalstyle of their village. We recom-mend that you visitAnafiotika,the neighbourhoodof the

Anafiotes, a unique, charmingarea.

The Museum of theUniversity of Athens. The

building housing

the Museum ofAthens, located atTholou Str, was for-merly the resi-dence of the archi-tect Kleanthis(1832-1833).Subsequently ithoused the firstUniversity of

Athens (1837-1842).

TheKanellopoulosMuseumwasfounded in 1976,following the dona-tion of the privatecollection ofPavlos

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page 22)dominates MitropoleosSquare. On the square are sever-al cafes. In the colourfulDimo-pratiriou Square nearby you will

find tavernas with traditionalGreek food .

The street is named after thegod Hermes the protector oftrade. Ermou Str was one of thefirst streets paved by Kleanthisand Schaubert. More than 60years, from the late 19th centu-ry to the 1960s, it was a centreof womens fashion. It is one of

the best areas for shopping inthe capital. You will find a vari-ety of silver, among others,candle holders, bowls, vasesand jewellery, often hand-madegoods produced in Greece, inshops atLekka Str, which con-nects Perikleous Str andKolokotroni Str, and the nearbyarcades. Also, in the pictur-esqueEvangelistriasandAyiou

Markou Streets, there are manyshops selling clothing and shoes

at very reasonable prices.In the section of Ermou Strclosest to Syntagma Square, (upto Athinas Str) you will find the

(page 23).In the section of Ermou Strclosest to Pireaus Str (fromThiseio to Pireaus Str) you willfind the

(page 19)

A central commer-cial road connecting

(page69)with

(page33).Designed in per-spective of the

Acropolis Rock, itwas one of the firstmain roads con-

structed in modernAthens and has amultitude of impor-tant architectural ex-amples of 19th cen-tury and early 20thcentury styles. Noisyand busy most ofthe time, Athinas

35

HISTORIC CENTRE (1)

renovated neoclassical metrostation - one of the oldest ofthe metro network (1895).Next to the platforms, in a spe-cially formed space of 300sq.m.one can see the encased withstones, bed and banks of

, dating from antiq-uity. It is visible even from thesquare, through the archaeolog-

ical excavation pit.

is the central square ofMonastiraki. Here you will finda wide range of rare furniture,antiques and the copies of an-tiques, and a variety of useditems. Moreover, you will findold wardrobes, bookcases,

frames, mirrors, antique officetables, tables, gramophonerecords and musical instru-ments. Come early if you wantto shop. Noon is the best timeto come if you want to take alook around. You can have aglass of Greek wine or ouzo

with Greek snacks - called

mezedes- in one of the smallshops of the square, and ob-serve the bustle of the bazaar.

a distinctive Athens street, con-nects Hadrians library with theTheseio metro stop. In theneoclassical one-floor or two-floor buildings are shops withtraditional items, and antiqueshops. Street-sellers sell their

ware here Sundays. You willfind here cafes and small fash-ionable restaurants with aunique view of the archaeologi-

cal area of the(page 15).

The area encompassed byMitropoleos Str, Athinas Strand Stadiou Stris the heart ofthe historic centre of Athens,and the old commercial area.

In the area, with the smaller orlarger labyrinthine streets, aremore than 2,500 shops sellinga wide range of products.Pedestrian zones have been es-tablished. The historic commer-cial centre is a rather quiet area,

with a multitude of cafes, smallbars and modern restaurants.

It connects(page 52)with

(page 33). The build-ings on the street are built inthe neoclassical style. The

(Athens Cathedral,

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3.1

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is a rectangular building(1886) with a large covered

court. There are a total of 73food stalls (meat market, fishmarket, vegetable market andgroceries) in the interiorand exterior sections.The market is covered

with a glass and metalroof and has sym-metrical windows.

You will find heresmall restaurants(eating-houses)

with fresh food, at-tracting Atheniansespecially aftermidnight. There is a smallgrove on the square(Varvakeios Square) across thestreet.

a charming street with an ori-ental atmosphere, connects

(page 71)with

(page 38). You willfind here a multitude of shopsselling spices, sweets, nuts, cof-fee, and traditional orientalproducts.

A pedestrian zonehas been establishedin a large section ofthe Aiolou Str, whichconnects Panepisti -miou Str with theRoman Market(Plaka). At the cross-roads of Aiolou Strand Sophocleous Str

is the newly constructed

(2002),one of the most importantmodern architectural sights of

Athens. The building was de-signed by Greek architects,

with the collaboration of the fa-mous architect M. Botta.On the ground floor you

will find a restored sec-tion of the ancientAcharnai road. At10 Sophocleous Stris the old mansionof the

, with aclassical style faadewith four Doriancolumns. As you

head towards Plaka you willsee two marvellous churches,

which are well worth a visit:The(1863 - at the crossroads of

Aiolou Str and Panagia Chryso-spiliotissa Str) and(1847 - Athinaidos Str) both

built by the architect L. Kaftan-tzoglou. Ayia Eirini, which wasthe first Cathedral of Athens, islocated at a picturesque square,

where one can find a flowermarket and many small cafes.

37

HISTORIC CENTRE (1)

Str is connected mainly to thefood trade. In the arcades of theold market most of the shopssell groceries. The fragrance offoods, fruits, herbs and nuts per-

vades the air. The street has thecharm of the bazaars of the East.

(Athinas Str 63)

was constructed in 1874 in astrictly neoclassical style. Origin-ally a two-floor building, in1937 a floor was added and thebuilding was modified due tothe increased space require-ments of the Municipality. Inthe interior you will find thepaintings of known Greek paint-ers of the 19th century, andfrescoes ofF. Kontoglouwithrepresentations of mythological

and historic themes (1937-1940). You will find a large oilpainting depicting the ApostlePaul teaching the AtheniansChristian religion (1877) in theMunicipal Council hall. In thereception room (1st floor), you

will find in special glass-show-cases, small terra cotta figures

representing all the mayors ofAthens. In the vicinity of themunicipality is an attractive,small square, Theatrou Square.

formerly called Laou Square,and Loudovikou Square, facesthe Town Hall. The eclecticstyle (Ern. Ziller1887), with an impressive fa-ade, and two small towers atthe sides, dominates the southside of the square. The centralhall is covered with a glassroof. In the perimeter are Doricand Ionian style colonnades.The building, formerly the resi-dence of V. Melas, houses theCultural Centre of the NationalBank of Greece. In the eastern

side of the square is a renais-sance style building, the, housing

services of the National Bank ofGreece. A section of the

of thewas uncovered and

is exhibited in the northeasternsection of the square.

36


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modernism in Athens, with ele-ments of older architecturalstyles, it is the work of theknown Greek architectAn. Me-

taxas(1931).

a small square, with theNational HistoricalMuseum and theimpressive statueof the hero ofthe Greek Revo-lution Th. Kolo-kotronis on

horseback(L. Sohos, 1904)at its centre.Opposite thesquare (Stadiou Str8) is the dilapidated

, one ofthe oldest buildings of themodern city, the work ofChr. Hansen.

This impressive neoclassicalconstruction was built during

the period 1858-1871 accordingto the plans of Fr. Boulanger,

which were later modified bythe Greek architect P. Kalkos.

Up until 1935 the build-ing constituted the

seat of the GreekParliament and forthis reason it iscalled

. Since1961 it housesthe collectionsof the

(for the museumcollections,

page 94). 39

HISTORIC CENTRE (1)

is a central street one of thefirst paved roads of modern

Athens. It was built on a river

bed. It was formerly calledFeidiou Str and Akakiou Str.There was a plan to extend thestreet to the PanathenaeanStadium which was never putinto action hence the nameStadiou.

connects Sarantoza Str andArsaki Str. One of the first pub-lic mansions raised in the mod-ern city (1834), it is built in theneoclassical style. Before 1905,it housed the National Printers.

is a spacious square with inter-esting buildings (among others,

,

page 98), the former

Ministry of Merchant Marine,the Ministry of Internal Affairs,the Byzantine church of

page 25) and amultitude of cafes. An impres-

sionist bronze statue represent-ing the National Reconcilia-tion (Doropoulos1988) standsin the centre of the square.

is an eclectic style mansion.It houses two cinemas, among

the oldest of Athens, which haverecently been renovated.

is a small square, named afterthe church at its centre. The ele-gant church (built by L. Kaftan-tzoglou) was built at the site ofan older church where the Athe-nians in January 1833 selected adeputation to welcome the newking Otto in Nauplion. Opposite

the square is the neoclassicalstyle building.

an exceptional example of

38


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Following the liberationof Greece (1833), veteranfreedom fighters and im-migrants from theprovinces settled in theneighbourhood. Theyopened cottage industriesand workshops, whichhave given the neigh-bourhood a distinctivecharacter. In the early1990s, following a seriesof construction works,the neighbourhood be-came a popular nightlifeand residential area. The

churches in the area arealso quite interesting,such asAyioi Anargyroi,Ayios Demetrios, Ayios

Gregorios (Armenian)), etal. , the cen-tral square, is good placefor you to start your walk.

Near the archaeological area

(page 19) is the his-toric neighbourhood ofKerameikos. Worth seeing areAyion Assomaton Str(with the

,

41

HISTORIC CENTRE (2)

Acolourful neoclassicalAthens neighbourhood, en-compassed byAthinas Str,Ermou StrandEvripidou Str. It isa busy neighbourhood, espe-cially in the night. You will findon its narrow alleys a multitudeof cafes, small bars, clubs,restaurants, ouzo-restaurants,

and taverns with live

Greek music, the-atres, galleries, artgalleries, and an-tique shops.

40


HISTORIC CENTRE (2)

1

2

page 95),Melidoni Str(you willfind here the

and the) and

Salaminas Str. In recent years,the area has become one of

Athenss popular nightlife hubswith many small restaurants,bars and live-music nightclubs.


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The marble fountain, located at

Metaxourgeio Square, was builtin the 19th century. It wastransported here fromDimopratiriou Square.

Starting at Karaiskaki Square,take Achileos Str, turn atIasonos Str, and proceed to

Agisilaou Str. You will find here

small theatres in historic build-ings. Take a right turn atAkadimou-YiatrakouStr, and proceed to

Achilleos Str. Takenote of thesmall, neoclassi-cal (one-storeyand two-storey)houses withbalconies,balusters, and

ornate frontdoors. At thecrossroads of

Yiatrakou Str andGermanikou Str,you will find a smallcolourful square (AvdisSquare), with cafes, bars anda playground.

Starting at ,take a turn at Diliyianni Str, andyou will arrive at this colourfulbuilding, built in 1912-1913,

with an architectural designcombining the neoclassical,central European and ArtNouveau styles. The railway sta-

tion (serving railway lines tothe Peloponnese) is a copy in areduced scale of theConstantinople railway station,reflecting the European archi-tectural trends of the 19th cen-tury. Opposite the PeloponneseRailway Station is the

(serving railwaylines to central and northernGreece), built in 1908, in theneoclassical style, and later re-constructed.

If you want to go fora walk, you can visitKolonos, a working-

class neighbour-hood of Athens,near the historiccentre.Although thearea has beenrebuilt, theneighbour-hood maintains

its distinct, his-toric character.

Starting atPeloponnese

Railway Station takeIoanninon Str, toIppiou

Kolonou Hill and (take aturn at Evripou Str) proceed toSkouze Hill. Around these small

wooded hills, you will find anarea of detached houses withgardens and small, elegantblocks of flats, preserving theatmosphere of the old Athensneighbourhood (the nearestmetro stop is Sepolia).

43

HISTORIC CENTRE (2)

The former Gas works is atthe centre of the neigh-bourhood, which was formerly

called Gazohori (Gas village).Located in western Athens, it isthe third square of the city, inaccordance with the Kleanthis-Schaubert urban plan. It has toa large extent maintained thecolour of a historic Athensneighbourhood. You will findcafes, bars and luxury restau-rants, popular among

Athenians, in a multitude ofold, picturesque buildings. In

the area, one can choose be-tween different theatres andtheatrical scenes.

The traditional neighbour-hood in the centre ofAthens was planned by archi-tect, Chr. Hansen. The name isderived from asilk fabric manu-facture factory, which closed in1875. The building still standsonMeg. Alexandrou Str, betweenMylerou Strand Giatrakou Strand is undergoing renovationin order to house the municipal

Art Gallery and different cultur-al events. On the one side ofAchilleos Str(facingPiraeus Str)

is the old section, and on theother side (facingLenormanStr), is the new section. Thenew section, which has beenreconstructed, has not main-tained the historic characterof the neighbourhood, while inthe old section a number ofbuildings constructed in thetraditional style have been pre-served. In the area, a multitudeof small restaurants-bars, andcafes are in operation servingtraditional oriental drinks,sweets, and food.

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was founded in 1857 and closed

in 1983. It produced lighting gas

for the city. Formerly in the area

were, among others, wood work-

shops, foundries, machine-works,garages, restaurants, barbers

shops, medical centre. The Gas

works, a scheduled building, is

the only one of its kind in

Europe. The buildings have un-

adorned, neoclassical masonry,

a varnished, wooden roof with

skylights, covered with Byzantine

or French style tiles and sheet-

iron. It is an industrial zone,

housing a cultural centre of theAthens Municipality

( )

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It is one of the most importantcontemporary works of archi-tecture in Athens. Its construc-tion, designed by architectsB. Tschumiand Mih. Fotiadis

was completed in 2007. Stand-ing only 300m away from the

Acropolis, its total area covers21,000 sq.m, while it offers adisplay area of 14,000 sq.m. Itis made of steel, glass and con-crete; it uses natural light effi-ciently so that its 4,000 exhibits

would show off. The last level(The Parthenon room) has thedimensions and the directionof the Parthenon and it hasbeen rotated by 23 degrees inrelation to the rest of the build-ing so that the visitor wouldhave an immediate view of themonument. The surroundingarea, visible from the glassfloor of the ground level, func-tions as an open-air museum-

excavation. The main entranceis on Dionyssiou AreopagitouStreet (page 6). In addition,the imposingstands in the vicinity. Havingbeen built by German architectW. Von Weiller, it combinesByzantine style masonry andneoclassical decorative patterns.

Initially it was used as a mili-tary hospital and later as policeunit headquarters, whereassince 1987 it houses the Acro-polis Research Centre(for muse-um exhibits,pages 90-91).

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HISTORIC CENTRE (3)

Aresidential area, enclosedby the DionyssiouAreopagitou Str to the foothillsof Philopappou Hill. The neo-classical houses, and the newerbuildings, (especially buildingsbuilt in the interwar era), arecharming. Makriyianni is oneof the most elegant neighbour-hoods of the city. Worth a visitare, among others,Mitsaion Str,Parthenonos Str, Webster Str,

Cavalloti Str, Kallisperi Str, R.

Gali Str, Mouson Str.


T H E S I G H T S :

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Neighbouring Makriyanni isKoukaki, a district with afriendly, pleasant ambienceand interesting sites especiallythe area near Philopappou hill(Panaitoliou Str, Arakinthou Str).

Acharming, colourful neigh-bourhood, exuding the at-mosphere of 1950s Athens.Several examples of working-class urban architecture are

preserved, among others, one-storey and two storey houses.

is located west of the hill(ancient Amphitheatre).

You can see performances ofGreek folk dances by the DoraStratoudance group. Dora

Stratou dedicated her life to theresearch and preservation ofGreek folk art. The group,

houses and public mansions.Have a drink at one of the out-door cafes at Thission Square(at ), andenjoy a unique view of the

Acropolis and the AncientAgora area.

is the central pedestrian zoneof the area, with attractive neo-classical buildings. Here, and atAkamantos Str, which is parallelto Irakleidon Str, you will finda multitude of cafes and bars,open all day. Moreover, in thenearby pedestrian zone atEptahalkou Stryou will find tra-ditional tavernas withMediterranean cuisine.

connects Apostolou Pavlou Strwith the National Observatory.It has a unique view of the

Acropolis, Lycabettus Hill, theAncient Agora and the newcity.

the oldest research institutionof Greece and the Balkans, wasfounded in 1842. The buildingof the Observatory at Nymphonhill (which took its name fromthe sanctuary with the samename that stood there in antiq-uity), opposite the Acropolisand the Ancient Agora, was de-signed by Th. Hansen. It is anattractive neoclassical building.The building is cruciform, fac-ing the four compass points.

47

HISTORIC CENTRE (3)

which has participated in amultitude of festivals world-

wide, is known in Greece andabroad. The dancers wear tra-ditional Greek costumes of var-ious regions of the country, andperform songs and dances ofall periods of Greeces history.

is a colourful square, with smallcafes, and traditional tavernas,in the nearby streets.

An attractive, small neighbour-hood -in the area ofApolloniouStrand Troon Str- with stone-built houses, (of the post-warperiod), exuding the atmos-phere of a mountain village, isbeing redeveloped.

The area was named afterthe nearby ancient temple(page 17). A traditionalneighbourhood with a multi-tude of charming neoclassical

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HISTORIC CENTRE (3)

is a colourful, quiet square,with Ayia Marina church (19thcentury) at its centre. In the

north-western side, sculpted in-to the rock, lies the original cha-pel, with a posterior dome andfrescoes of the 13th century.

is the north-western section ofthe Ancient Agora archaeologi-cal site. It was planted withtrees in 1862 and ornamentalplants in 1931. Formerly it wasthe area where Athenians cele-brated Easter.

(66, Iraklidon Str)

is a noteworthy industrialbuilding with interesting ma-sonry and a tiled roof. Thebuilding, an important land-

mark that housed a hat-factorymany years, is a scheduledbuilding. The space is used for

various purposes (Cultural Centre).

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You will find here an old aque-duct and an open-air cinema.

is the central street ofKolonaki, with interesting neo-classical and art deco stylebuildings. Along the street(from the Kolonaki square to-

wards Neapoli), one would findmany shopping centres, con-temporary cafes, and small bars

with a distinct air, particularlypopular all day long.

(Skoufa Str)

a stately church, was built inthe early 1930s at the site of anearlier church. The faade isbuilt in a neo-renaissance style,and the interior is decorated inthe Byzantine style. AyiosDionyssios

Areopagitis, oneof Athens earlyChristians, is the

patron saintof Athens.

is located nearAyios Dionyssios(at the crossroadsofLycavittou StrandAnagnostopou-lou Str). Domina-ting the squareis the

(1925),a private resi-dence, which for-merly accommo-dated the BrazilianEmbassy.

distinctive Athens road, it con-nects the foot of Lycabettus hill

with Syntagma Square. In the

pedestrian zone (linkingAcademias Str to PanepistimiouStr), you will find a multitudeof attractive cafes and bars.

An impressive neoclassicalbuilding (at the crossroads ofMarasli Str and Spefsipou Str),it is the work of architectD. Kallias(1905) and housesthe education Institute Mara-sleios Academy of primary edu-cation.

(the church of the Petraki

Monastery in Kolonaki,page 26).

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KOLONAKI - THE RIGILLIS AREA - METZ

Kolonaki is situated at an ex-clusive location, encom-passed by Syntagma Square,

Vassilisis Sofias Avenue andthe slopes of LycabettusHill. It was named afterthe old column (theGreek for small col-

umn is kolonaki), inthe centre of KolonakiSquare. The area wasnot developed beforethe 1880s. In Kolonakiyou will find parks and attrac-tive buildings, built predomi-nantly in the neoclassical andmodernist architectural style,lending the area a distinguishedcharacter. It is considered thearistocratic neighbourhood of

Athens. You will find here themost expensive commercialshops, popular cafes and mod-ern bars, and luxury restau-rants. If you seek diversion andrelaxation, go for a stroll atPatriarchou Ioakim Str, Tsakalov

Str, Anagnostopoulou Str, Milioni

Str, Fokylidou Str, Karneadou Str,

Loukianou Str, Ploutarchou Str,

Haritos Str, Spefsipou Strand theLykabettos circular.

When you visit Athens youshould have a coffee at one ofthe cafes at Kolonaki Square.Modern Athenians and foreign

visitors enjoy a break at one ofthe cafes, eating, drinking cof-fee and chatting.

is a small square, which servesas a local recreation ground.The traditional caf on thesquare attracts Athenians and

visitors. It was the meetingplace of intellectuals in the

20th century.L


In Kolonaki you will

find the most fash-

ionable boutiques, with high cou-

ture items produced by Greek and

international designers, among

others, shoes, and leather goods,

toys, old furniture, jewellery, house

ware. At Voukourestiou Str and thesurrounding area - in the vicinity of

Syntagma Square - you will find

world-famous Greek jewellers,

bookshops specialising in foreign

language editions, and major gal-

leries exhibiting the works of Greek

painters and sculptors.

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when you ask direc-tions if people referto Syntagma square.Plaka, the Acropo-lis, the Cathedral,

the National Garden,Ermou Str, andKolonaki, are locat-ed in the vicinityof Syntagma Square.

You will find fash-ionable cafes andsmall restaurantslocated here.The square is busyaround the clock.

At the kiosks youwill find miscella-neous items, amongothers souvenirs,newspapers, andforeign magazines.

Dominating Syntagma Square,the building was the residence

of the first king of Greece Otto.The building was constructedfrom 1836 to 1842. George A,

who succeeded Otto on thethrone, also resided in thepalace. During his reign, twosuccessive fires destroyed thebuilding, making it unsuitablefor use as a royal residence. In1924 the government decidedto situate Parliament in thebuilding. Reconstruction work

was completed in 1934. The in-terior was redesigned by archi-tectA. Kriezis. In Parliamentyou will find national treasures,such as the first GreekConstitution, and a multitude of

valuable paintings. The libraryis worth a visit.

Built from 1929-1932, in frontof Parliament, it is a sculpteddepiction of a slain soldier (the

work of sculptor K. Dimitria-

des), bearing an inscriptionwith excerpts ofPericlesEpitaph. Commemorated onthe marble wall surroundingthe monument are the greatestbattles of the Greek army pos-terior to 1821. Greek and visit-ing officials lay a wreath at themonument on national holi-days. The monument is guard-ed around the clock by two se-lect troops, called , who

wear the traditional uniform.The ceremony of the changingof the guard, which takes placeevery hour, is worth seeing, es-pecially on Sunday morning(11 a.m.), when it is accompa-nied by a military band and alarge regiment of Evzones.

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KOLONAKI THE RIGILLIS AREA METZ

Impressive building in the clas-sicistic style, which was inaugu-rated in 1926 to house the

book collection (a total of26,000 volumes) donated in1922 by the scholar I. Genna-dios to the American School ofClassical Studies at Athens. In1960 the building was expand-ed. It is surrounded by a largegarden with lush vegetation(for the librarys collectionsand books,page 99).

Syntagma Square is Athenscentral square. The name ofthe square is derived from anuprising on 3 September 1843,of the people and the guard of

Athens before the then RoyalPalace building, (what is nowthe Parliament), demandingthat King Otto grant a Consti-tution (Syntagma means Consti-tution). Syntagma Square andOmonias Square are the twocentral locations of the city.

You should not be surprised

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Vassilisis Sofias Avenue, IrodouAttikou Str, Vassilisis AmaliasAvenue, and two entrances con-necting the National Garden tothe Zappeion. You will also find

here a smallpond, a smallzoo,theBotanical Museum, a tradi-tionalcaf,a childrens library, aplayground, variousmonumentsof antiquity, and thebusts of im-portant personalities of modernGreece (among others, politi-cians and authors).

an attractive building designedby Th. Hansen, it was con-

structed from 1874-1888. Inthe past few years some of themost significant events in thehistory of the country have tak-en place in the Conferences

and Exhibitions Mansion, suchas European summits, the an-nouncement of election results,and significant political an-nouncements. Moreover, art ex-hibitions and occasionally con-certs are held here. In the

vicinity of the mansion are thestatues of the Zappas brothers,

who funded the constructionof the building, and an attrac-tive park, where Athenians gofor a walk, especially onSundays. Near the ZappeionMansion is a luxury caf and anopain-air cinema.

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a luxury hotel, built in 1842.The building, designed as a pri-

vate residence, was the work ofTh. Hansen. Renovated in 1874,it accommodated a hotel. In1958 the hotel was reconstruct-ed to meet increasing demand,and several floors were addedto the structure. In 2003 thebuilding was completely reno-

vated. The hotel is connectedto major events of Greek histo-ry. A multitude of notables andcelebrities visiting Athensstayed here. Worth a visit is theinterior, with a caf and luxuryrestaurant, exuding a unique at-mosphere.

A section of the ancient ceme-

tery and Peisitstratos aqueduct,unearthed in the northeasternsection of the square, is dis-played in an outdoor, coveredarea.

is a prolongation of Stadiou Str.

You will find here attractiveneoclassical buildings and, atthe crossroads of PhilellinonStr, Xenofontos Str and SouriStr, the

church (page 24) and theAnglican church of

(1843) ), the work ofCh.Hansen, with elements ofGothic style and cruciformshape.

is a broad avenue connecting(page 6)

with Syntagma Square. An ele-gant street with stately neoclas-sical and modernist buildings,it is located in the vicinity ofthe National Garden. As you as-cend towards Syntagma Square,you will have a view ofParliament and, in the distance,Licabettus Hill.

The National Garden, openfrom dawn to sunset, is anoasis in the centre of the city.It has a total area of 160,000m2. Some five hundred differ-ent kinds of plants, bushes andtrees from various locationsaround the world are grownhere (in total, it has 7,000 treesand 40,000 bushes). At thesame time, it comprises an im-portant natural life reserve in

Athens as many differentspecies of birds, hedge-hogs,turtles, ducks and evenbats are gathered here. TheNational Garden - which wasformerly the palace garden -

was laid out from 1838-1860.There are six entrances: at

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(1927), the marble Wood-chop-per by D. Filippotis, 1872-1875) gymnast V. Yiannoulisposed for the work and theStatue of G. Karaiskakis, a

bronze monumental sculpture(4.40 metres high), byM. Tombros(1963-1966), de-picting a hero of the Greek rev-olution on horseback.

T

he Panathenaikon Stadium,a remarkable construction,

was made of white marble. Thepetal shaped stadium is locatedfacing the National Garden.In 330 BC a stadium made of

wood was built at this location.Herodes Atticus constructed amarble construction, which wasthe model for the constructionof the stadium that stands to-day. It was used as a space forathletic competitions, whichtook place during the

Panathenaean festival (page20). The stadium that stands to-day has a capacity of approx.60,000 spectators. It was builtin 1869-1870 and it was the

venue of the first OlympicGames in modern history(1896). Surrounding the stadi-um is the wooded ,

where local residents go for awalk.

57Aprestigious area with luxu-ry residential buildings, vil-las and abundant vegetation.It is encompassed by VassilisisSofias Avenue, Rigillis Str,

Vassileos Konstantinou Avenue

and Irodou Attikou Str. The areais located in the vicinity of theold palace (now thePresidential Mansion).

(Irodou Attikou Str)

The former Royalpalace, three storeyed, bear-

ing profound neoclassical andelite elements (1890-1897), de-signed by the architect Ern.Ziller. Formerly it was used asthe residence of the princes-heirs to the Hellenic RoyalCrown, later as a palace, and in1974 as the official residence of

the President of the HellenicRepublic. It is surrounded byan attractive 6 acre garden. Themansion is guarded byEvzones, wearing a distinctiveuniform.

(Irodou Attikou Str)

the official residence of the re-spective Greek prime minister,it was designed in 1924 byAnt.

Helmis. The mansionwas constructed fol-

lowing the deathof Helmis, byhis wife, andher new hus-

band D. Maxi-mos. It has a small

garden.

The sculptures at the junctionof Irodou Attikou Str (facingKallimarmaro Stadium) areamong the most attractive in

Athens: the Discus thrower, abronze statue by K. Dimitriades

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outdoor sculpture display, witha stately and serene garden, ex-cellent monumental tomb-

stones, built by some of themost important Greek sculptorsof the past two centuries.

59One of the most fashionableneighbourhood of Athens,was developed in the 1870s. Itwas named after the Metzbrewery that was located in thearea, and for a long time it wasa popular recreational area. In

the 1950s the riverbed of theIlissos (atArdittouStr). passedthrough it.Today it is aquiet residen-tial area, en-compassed bythe Ardittouhill and the1st Cemetery(along the

Loginou Strpedestrian zone). In the centralroad of the area, M. MousourouStr, are cafes. Worth seeing areother distinctive roads of theneighbourhood (among others,Nik. Theotokis Str, Trivonianou

Str, Dikaiarchou Str, Balanou Str).

If you take Kleitomachou Str,Arhimidou StrandEmbedokleousStr, you will reach

.You will find here cafes,traditional tavernas and luxuryrestaurants. You can return tothe Panathenaikon Stadium viaAgras Str.

It is the oldestand biggestcemetery of

Athens. Severalimportant per-sonalities of

modern Greecehave been laid torest here (amongothers, politi-

cians, scientists ,artists, religious leaders etc).The foundation of the cemeterycoincided with the foundationof the modern Greek state. Thedesign recalls the major ceme-teries of Western Europe in theearly 1900s. It is basically an

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The most famous sculpture of modern Greekart, made by Y. Halepas in 1878, for the grave ofS. Afentakis.

The grandest monument of the ceme-tery, built by the sculptors G. Vitalisand D. Filippotis.The remains of the national benefactor are here.

The tomb monument of theGerman archaeologist who discovered ancient Troy, madeby Ern. Ziller(1892). It is shaped like a church. On the

groundwork are sculpted depictions of the Trojan Cycle.

Built in the renaissance style, it re-calls the Mausoleum of Lawrence of Medici in Florence.

A remarkable tombstone sculpture byG. Vitsaris(1872), on the tomb of N. Koumelis.

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Mount Penteli (page 103),and took a large rock with thepurpose of placing it on the ex-isting rock. As she transportedthe rock, two black birds ap-proached her, bringing her badnews regarding something shehad to take care of immediate-

ly. In her rage and haste, therock fell in the centre of

Athens. The rock, which is 278metres high, is located in thecentre of Athens. In ancienttimes the hill was covered bylush vegetation and on its topstood a temple dedicated to

Zeus. By the time Athens wasliberated from the Turkish oc-cupation, Lycabettus Hill hadno trees at all. Reforestationstarted in 1880 and was com-pleted in 1915.

Dontmiss the view of the Acropolisand of the entire cityextending up to the sea. You

will also enjoy walking alongnarrow paths all the way tothe top of the hill.

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forest in the heartof the city, it isconsidered by

Athenians one of themost favourite placesfor hiking, resting andrelaxing in the different

cafes and restaurantsoperating there.

According to mytholo-gy, goddess Athena

wanted her temple inAcropolis to be closerto heaven. One stormynight she went to

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tude of important neoclassical,eclectic and modernist build-ings are preserved. Followingthe renovation works, theneighbourhood attracted a new

generation of residents. Go fora walk in the pedestrian zoneofThemistocleous Str(fromThemistocleous Square toKallidromiou Str) and otherpedestrian zones of the area(among others, Valetsiou Str,Methonis Str, Eresou Str), a quietarea, and rest in a caf, bar ortraditional taverna.

is the central square of theneighbourhood. It is a busysquare, with a vivid night life.

You will find here a multitude ofcafes and small, trendy bars andtwoopen-air cinemas,offeringunique entertainment in thesummer. Also, in the neighbour-ing streets apart from the many

restaurants and caf-bars, onewould find unique shops sellingclothes, old records, books andhand-made jewellery.

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An open-air theatre built from1964-1965 by the architectT. Zenetosat the site of an oldmine following the recommen-dation of the Greek actress

A. Synodinou, for performancesof ancient drama. It has a ca-pacity of 3,000. In summer cul-tural events are staged here, at-tracting music and theatre fans.

(page 26)

(page 26)

GETTING THERE: If you want togo by car, there is only oneroad leading to the top of thehill. If you want to walk there

are a multitude of footpaths.You may also use the funicular,which operates daily from thecrossroads ofAristippou StrandPloutarchou Str (Kolonaki).

Neapoli is encompassed byLycabetus hill andMavromihali Str. It is, after

Plaka, the oldest neighbourhoodof Athens (Neapoli means NewTown). Neapoli and Exarhia

were developed in 1860. Thefirst residents were mostly stu-dents. The area is situated nearthe University and the Poly-

technic. Later it be-came a favouriteresidential neigh-bourhood of artists.

At Asklipiou is theremarkable neo-classical churchof

(1895).Facing LycabettusHill, is an area on asteep incline, withpedestrian zone,lined with treesand steps leadingto the central roads

(among others,Solonos Str., Asklipiou Str,Ippokratous Str, Sina Str, Massalias

Str,andDelfon Str) where youwill find, among others, a multi-tude of cafes, small bookshops,antique shops.

An old Athens neighbour-hood, with a special charm.It is known as a residentialneighbourhood of students andartists, with a Bohemian charac-ter, contrasting with the world-ly Kolonaki Square. In the pastfew decades, a series of recon-struction works have consider-ably upgraded the area. A multi-

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Strefi hill is located in thevicinity of Exarheia Square,and despite of its relativelysmall size (approximately 12.5

acres) it forms a green oasis inthe densely built city. It wasplanted with trees in thedecade of the 1920s, until thenit was used as a quarry.Nowadays one will find heresport facilities, ouzobars, anopen-air theatremade of stone,and at the top you may enjoya panoramic view of the city.To get there, you takeKallidromiou Str, a beautiful

street, with neoclassical man-sions and small popular cafesand bars, (from Emm. BenakiStr to Deliyianni Str).

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(page 52)

One of the oldest roads ofAthens, it was originallydesigned to be a Boulevard(formerly called Boulevard Str).Today it is one of the busiestroads, linking Syntagma Square

with Omonia Square. On thisbroad avenue, a number of themost important, representative

public buildings of Athens werebuilt, unique landmarks of thecity.

rennaissance style. It was the

residence of the German ar-chaeologist and philheleneHein. Schliemann. It has a dou-ble stairway in the northernside, while in the faade andthe other two floors, are colon-nades with ionic columns.The interior is decorated withPompeian frescoes and de-pictions of the landscapes andfinds of Troy. In 1927 it becamethe seat of the Supreme Court(the highest penal court of thecountry). It houses now the

(page 92).

A five-storey building, it is anexceptional example of lateclassicism. The entrance is dec-

orated with ionic columns.Located at the crossroads ofOmirou Str and Panepistimiou

Avenue, it houses the Archaeo-logical Society of Athens.

(Panepistimiou Avenue

and Omirou Str)

The three columned, cross-in-

square style church was de-signed by the architects L. vonKlenzeand L. Kaftantzoglou.The portico in the western sidehas five cylindrical arches (it islocated at the crossroads ofPanepistimiou Avenue andOmirou Str).

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A stately building occupyingthe block encompassed byPanepistimiou Str, Voukoure-stiou Str, Amerikis Str andStadiou Str, it was built from1927-1938. The royal stables

were formerly located here.The faade was built in the ArtDeco style. In the centre is anarcade with shops. Recently re-constructed, the building isnow a shopping centre and anoffice building, while it incor-porates three theatres (thePallas, the Small Pallas andthe Aliki Theatre), cafes and

restaurants.

(12, Panepistimiou Str)

is one of the most attractiveneoclassical buildings of

Athens. It was reconstructed in1879 by Ern. Zillerin the neo-

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produced by K. Rahl.The Academy is thought to bea prime example of Greekarchitectural style.

The University ofAthens was designed byCh. Hansen, the elder of the

Hansen brothers. Worth seeingare the fountain in the court,the circular stairway and themulticoloured frescoes withclassical themes (designed bythe Bavarian K. Rahl), decorat-ing the walls, located behindthe columns on the balcony.

A remarkablebuilding, planned byTh. Hansen.It is the largest library in thecountry, housing a unique

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(Panepistimiou Avenue and

Sina Str)A stately building (1854) withelements of Byzantine and neo-classical architecture, it was de-signed by Ch. Hansen and mod-ified by L. Kaftantzoglou. Form-erly a one-storey building, inthe mid-1860s a second floor

was added to the structure.

(Panepistimiou Str 21)

A stately building occupying awhole block. The foundationswere laid in 1933 and thebuilding was opened in 1938.The transactions halls recall the

unadorned, stately atmosphereof the interwar period.

Three stately buildings con-structed by two Danish archi-tects, the Hansen brothers, wholived in Greece.

On either side ofthe Academy, are two wingsdecorated with friezes anda pair of high columns

supporting the statues ofApolloandAthena, whereas atthe front side of the buildingthe visitors are welcomed bythe statues ofPlatoandSocrates. The Academy wasstudied by Th. Hansen,the younger of the Hansenbrothers. The statues weresculpted by L. Drosisandthe painted decoration was

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A stately two-storey mansion, itis a distinctive example ofGreek classicism with astrain of eclecticism.Formerly the

Arsakeion GirlsSchool, it is nowthe Council ofState, (highestCourt of State).

Adjacent to themansion is theCourts Square.

The arcadein the Mansion, built in theneobaroque style, has aremarkable glass roof with adome in the centre. You willfind here shops, cafes and the

, (BookArcade) with the bookshopsof 60 Greek publishinghouses. Cultural events areheld at the Stoa tou Vivliou.

A mansion with three halls(cinema-theatre), built from1935-1937, the design was in-fluenced by contemporary

American skyscrapers. Twohalls are now used for perform-ances of theNational Theatre.The third is an entertainmentcentre.

central square, which isbusy around the clock,throughout the year, by contrast

with Syntagma Square. OmoniaSquare has always been busyaround the clock. According to

custom, Athenians, after a nightout Saturday evening, buySunday papers at kiosks andstands on the square. Omonia is

the oldest central square

of modern Athens.A visit to Omonia,

to get a sense ofthe vibrancy of thesquare is a mustfor all visitors.

At the square youwill find the usualfast-food shops.

Foreign newspapersare sold in kiosks.

At the square are stately

buildings, in particular thehotels and

(at the crossroadsof Athinas Str,) the caf,and a branch of the

(at Panepistimiou Str).At Omonia Square is a centralmetro station.

Stadiou Str, Patision Str, Pane-pistimiou Avenue, 3rdSeptemvriou Str, Piraeus Str,

Athinas StrandAyiou Konstanti-nou Strconverge at Omonia

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range of thousands of booksin all languages. On the faadeis a stately six-column porticoin the Doric style, based onthe design of the Thiseion.The interior, designed by Ern.Ziller, is lighted by a skylighton the roof and encompassedby an Ionian style colonnade.

Located in the vicinity of thetrilogy (at Akadimias Str 50),it is a remarkable neoclassicalbuilding which was built in

1835 according to the design ofChr. Hansen. It was a hospital in

the course of decades. Culturalevents are held in the building.In front of the main entrance ofthe building is a small garden

with the busts of historical fig-ures (among others, artists andpoliticians), while on the otherside, (at Solonos Str), is a tradi-

tional caf. Exactly adjacent tothe caf (at Akadimias Str) is thestately (with apink interior, it is known as thepink building). Built in 1857-

1859, it houses the. Diagonally

across the street, (at the cross-roads of Ippocratous Str and

Akadimias Str), is the

(1926-1931), designed byAl.Nikoloudisin the eclectic styleof the Beaux Arts.

is a small, attractive square, de-veloped when a pedestrianstreet was created at Korai Str.North-east of the square is the

(10, KoraiSquare) built in the early neo-classical style. Opposite theRallis building is the modernistbuilding of the

(designed byE. Lazaridis). Northwest of thesqua

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