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TRAVEL

86 October 2010

For a minute speck in the Mediterranean,

Maltas had had some serious

heavyweight interest. The Ancient Greeks

and Phoenicians haggled on its dusty

flagstones, the egotistical Romans marched

through its stone bastions even the British

gave it a go. Its thanks to the tiny islandsstrategic position halfway between the Strait

of Gibraltar and the Suez Canal that so many

tried. Now, its less gunship warfare and more

sun, food and fabulous hotels that draw

travellers to its rocky shores.

See:Valletta, Maltas capital, is a living

experience of baroque architecture, designed

by no less than Michaelangelos protg and

lovingly donated

by the Knights of the

Order St John nearly five

centuries ago rulers

of which youll find the

Maltese speak ofromantically still. Their

greatest gift, however,

is the majestic St Johns

Cathedral. Its austere

exterior belies the gilded

walls inside, carved

religious reliefs and inlaid marble floors. Most

impressive of all, it holds some of Carvaggios

most beautiful works, including the magnificent

Beheading of Saint John the Baptist. The

notoriously immoral Caravaggio was fleeing

prosecutors from his native Italy when he was

accepted into the Order. In the surroundings

of the Knights self-imposed opulence, the

painter flourished. One can see why.

Do: From the mid-17th century Upper

Barrakka gardens on the ramparts of St Peter

and St Paul bastion, you can hear the cannons

fire at 1pm every day and see just why Maltas

circular harbour offered such a safe haven.

Take a ride on a traditional Maltese boat,

a daghajsa, across the impossibly blue harbour

to the Three Cities, dubbed so by Napoleon

himself. Here youll see Maltas biggest

export, limestone, put to its best use,

the gleaming grey buildings piled high on

snaking, steep cobblestone streets. Also

worth putting on the to-do list, although you

wont necessarily be able to book it in, is a

Natasha Paulinijoins the conquering nationsthat have fought over this small island

Table talk: de Mondionspanoramic view

At theMalta alter

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October 2010 87

saints festival. The Maltese are split

by a friendly rivalry, St Augustine versus St

Benedictine. Throughout May and October,

the two factions battle it out with festivals of

riotous colour, music and dancing. One you

can plan, however, is the Traditional Food andFesta Fair, Malta on 13 November.

Stay: Maltas increasing tourism trade can

be seen in the numerous hotels that have

sprung up on the island. You will, however,

still find most offer that small, village intimacy

in abundance, and none more so than the

Xara Palace Relais and Chateaux in the city of

Mdina. Dont let the grand name put you

off. This delightful hotel is tightly run by

Nicky Paris, whose passion for the romantic

17th Century hilltop palazzo is evident.

Lovingly restored to its former medieval glory,

the hotels rooms have their own individual

charm. Furnishings throughout the hotel aresourced personally by the owners; even the

headboards are remodelled from antique

mantelpieces. The fortified city in which it

stands is known as The Silent City, and a

quick stroll around its high-walled streets

during the afternoons siesta will quickly

explain why. The hushed environs invite quiet

and cool on hot days, but are more than

a little eerie at night.

Eat: Maltese food is typically Med lots of

fresh fish, grilled veg, olives and cured meats

and opportunities abound at the string of

terraced restaurants on the the Three Cities

waterfront. Pastizzi pastry filled parcels of

pea or (the infinitely superior) ricotta is thenational snack, available at corner pastizzerias

and most bars, and often the choice of late-

night revellers looking for something to soak

up the excess. For the more refined, Xara

Palaces Trattoria serves up a simple menu

of antipasti, pasta and pizza, but its the

upstairs de Mondion restaurant thats earnt

the hotel some serious plaudits. Rated the

best restaurant in Malta by The Definitively

Good Guide 2008, de Mondions terrace

offers 180 panoramic views of the island

in a relaxing and genial setting. De Mondion

is award-winning chef Kevin Bonellos pride

and joy, who comes from good stock: thetalented chef has rubbed shoulders with the

likes of Marco Pierre White and Raymond

Blanc, the success of their tutorage clearly

evident in the considered menu of local fare.

Prices are steep, so consider it a treat. But

much like Malta itself, you will be back.

Misrah il-Kunsill, Mdina, 1050, Malta

+356 21 450560, xarapalace.com

Fit for a princess:the Xara Palace

Quiet zone:the silentcity of Mdina