Art of Care for Tulasi Devi

FOREWORD

Srimati Tulasi devi is Srimati Vrnda devi's beautiful partial expansion in this material world. Caring for Tulasi devi is purifying to one's self, pleasing to Lord Krsna, and, by her mercy, bestows upon one the privilege of devotional service and the attainment of love of God. There are actually two types of Tulasis. Those plants that develop a beautiful purple coloration on their stems and leaves when grown in direct sunlight and dark purple to pink flowers are called Krsna Tulasis.These intergrade through a spectrum of intermediates to the Rama Tulasis, whose leaves and stems never turn purple and their flowers are pure white.

To the scientific community, Tulasi is a member of the Lamiaceae or mint family, and is known by her Latin name Ocuminum sanctum L. The generic name Ocuminum means she is related to the herb basil, and the specific epithet sanctum means "holy" in honor of her exalted status, hence she is also called Holy Basil. The robust Laksmi Tulasi or Tulsa is the tree basil or Ocuminum gratissimum var. suave (Wild) Hook f. She is often used as a substitute in worship when Tulasi is not avaliable.

The Art of Care for Tulasi devi

General Growth and Development

Tulasi begins her active life here in this world as a tiny germinating seed. Her first leaves have rounded tips and squared-off bases. The ovale shaped leaves held opposite on the stem that are characteristic of Tulasi develop with the second set of leaves. At the base of every leaf, right at the junction of the leaf stalk with the stem, is a tiny bud which can develop into a branch, or, sometimes, into a flowering unit.

Tulasi's stem tip contains an active growing point that will cause the stem to grow up and up until that growth point changes into a flower cluster or manjari. Sometimes Tulasi becomes quite tall before this happens. In fact, Tulasi may need to be staked to give her additional support, especially when she is young and her stem has not yet become woody. Use a rot-resistent stake; i.e., wooden dowels rot quickly as opposed to bamboo, and better still are steel rods coated in plastic.The stake should be placed at the edge of the pot, not next to her stem. Plunging a stake into the pot right next to her stem is dangerous because a makor root may be damaged. Loop a strip of fine clean cloth or kite string around her stem, being careful not to interfere with the branches, and tie it to the stake. Use as many stakes as necessary to keep her straight.

Sometimes Tulasi can become too top heavy and will have difficulty supporting herself, and, even with staking, her stem will bend over rather than remaining straight. If Tulasi is becoming quite tall and you feel her height may be a problem for her, or if you are concerned about her height for another reason (for example, if she is growing too tall that she will not be able to fit in the window), then you may carefully pinch away the very tiny apical growing point on the stem apex. This will terminate her upward growth, and will cause the little buds at the junction of each leaf with the stem to develop into branches.After these branches have developed 3-4 sets of leaves, their apical growing points could be pinched off in like manner, which will trigger more side shoots to develop on each of these branches. This will produce a very compact growth form for Tulasi.

It should be stressed that this is the only shaping that can be done on Tulasi devi. She can never be pruned like mundane plants; i.e., branches can never be cut on whim just because you would like her to be a different shape. To cut a living Tulasi branch is offensive, and according to the Padma Purana, Lord Krsna feels the cutting of a green (living) Tulasi branch as a pain in His heart.

Always remember that Tulasi's receiving unidirectional light, such as through a window, will tend to lean towards the light and will also tend to develop branches only on the sunny side of the plant. Thus, it is essential to rotate a potted Tulasi a quarter turn daily to prevent this leaning and to encourage even branch development.

Flower development in Tulasi is dependent upon her health and the environment. Under ideal conditions she can bloom year round, but the heaviest concentrations of

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flowers develop in the spring through summer months. Tulasi's flowers are produced in clusters or inflorescences called in Sanskrit manjaris. Each manjari is composed of many whorls of six flowers each arranged along a central axis. The flowers do not open all at once, rather, the flowers of each lower whorl tend to open together and then blooming proceeds up the stalk to the younger whorls. Thus one large inflorescence has flowers at all stages of development from young unopened buds to open flowers to flowers past the blooming stage that have begun to set fruit. Often the two buds at the base of a manjari will themselves develop into manjaris making a three forked flowering unit. Some robust Tulasis under a year old can produce any number of manjari clusters up to 11-parted clusters by developing the two buds under the three forked unit into additional three forked units, followed by two single manjaris from the buds below those. The total lenght of the entire cluster is about 10", making an especially beautiful offering.

Tulasi devi's flowers contain both male and female parts and can self-fertilize themselves, that is, a pollinator is not required to visit the flower in order to trigger fruit development and seed set (however, various insects are very attracted to her manjaris and could cross pollinate them). If Tulasi's flowers have been pollinated, fruit development and seed set may occur under ideal conditions. After the petals have fallen from the flowers, the green calyx that surrounds the petals may enlarge and harden slightly.This is the sign that the ovary inside the flower is developing into seeds. Look down into the calyx, and you will see four yellow spheres. Tulasi and other mint plants produce a special type of fruit called a "nutlet". Each sphere is actually a nutlet that contains one seed. Because the seed is nestled in the nutlet so securely that they are never separated, each sphere can be thought of and referred to as a single seed. When these "seeds" mature, they are dark brown and will fall out of the calyx. Even though blooming may be year round, seed production is usually limited to late spring through summer. Tulasi uses a lot of energy to develop seeds, so allow your plants to mature seeds only if they are very healthy. To collect seeds from your Tulasi, allow the seeds to turn brown on the plant, but clip the manjari before the seeds have begun to fall from the calyx! Store the mature manjaris with seeds in a cool, dry airtight container.

As a young Tulasi matures, she may produce smaller leaves (some types of Tulasi produce leaves with blades up to 3" long during their first few months), and her stem will thicken and become woody. Her overall growth rate will slow down with age until she reaches her adult height which in some types of Tulasi is around 9', but for most Tulasis is around 3-4'. Srila Prabhupada said that most Tulasis live about five years. Of course this is an average, so some Tulasis live less, some live longer. After she leaves her body, her wood may be saved for carving beads, or it is extremely auspicious to burn the dried wood in fire sacrifices and cremation ceremonies. The rest may be buried in a protected spot.

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Growing Tulasi from Seed

Starting your own Tulasi from seed can be a very rewarding experience, and can also be easy. Purchasing a seed-starter kit from a local nursery which consists of peat moss pellets that expand into small containers, or peat moss cups with sterilized soil, makes it that much easier. You can also use your own soil mix of 1/2 Tulasi's normal potting soil (see soil section) and 1/2 sand, placed into peat moss cups or into flat containers at least 2" deep.

The Tulasi seeds should never be planted while they are still within the calyx, or this structure will interfere with their root development. The four seeds should be gently shaken from the calyx, or gently given a nudge out with the blunt eye of a needle, taking care not to damage the seeds. The seeds should be placed singly on top of the soil, and then covered with only a very fine sprinkling of soil equal to the diameter of the seed. Tulasi seeds prefer light to germinate, and will have difficulty sprouting if planted too deeply where they cannot receive light. It is important not to plant an excessive number of seeds. If you plant 10 seeds and all 10 germinate, you will then have 10 Tulasis plants to care for. This is easy when they are small, but finding proper space for 10 mature plants can be a challenge.It is best to plant only 1 or 2 seeds at first; one can always increase the number later if needed.

After planting, it's best not to water from above as the water could dislodge the tiny seeds. Instead, water the containers from below by setting them in a tray of tepid water until moist patches appear on the soil surface. Then, allow the containers to drain thoroughly. Follow the directions included with peat moss pellets if you have used these. Tulasi seeds will benefit from high humidity, so a pane of glass can be placed over the containers, or they can be placed in a clear plastic bag. Keep them in a warm place and give them bright lite, but not direct sun. The moisture that collects on the inside of the pane or bag should be removed daily, and fresh air should be allowed to circulate around the containers.

The Tulasi seeds should begin to germinate in 3-5 days, but some seeds can take longer. Remove the pane or bag when germination begins, but keep the seedlings in a humid environment (see Humidity section). The planting medium should be kept moist, but never soggy. The young seedlings will have only the two seed leaves for a number of days while she concentrates on root development. If she turns purple at this stage, she is in too bright a light and should be given more filtered light. Finally, the seedling will send up a small shoot with two more leaves and then two more. She is now old enough to transplant. A word of caution: if Tulasi looks fine one day, but the next morning has bent over at the soil line where a brown pinched area has formed on her stem, she has been attacked by a "damping off" fungus.

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Once this fungus hits, it can spread rapidly through the seedling flats. Immediatly improve the air circulation, decrease the humidity, and, if possible, sift fine, hot sand onto the soil surface to discourage the fungus.

If you have a single Tulasi growing in a peat moss container or in a peat moss pellet, you can wait until she is big enough to have roots coming out the bottom and sides of the container. Then, simply plant the entire container into a slightly larger clay pot with her normal potting soil. The new soil line should be exactly the same as the soil line in the container - never plant her lower or higher, or problems may result.

If two or more Tulasis are in the same container and you wish to separate them into individual pots, then when the seedlings have only two or three sets of leaves, gently tease apart the container and tease apart the soil mass until each Tulasi is free. Try to keep as much soil around the roots as possible, but if two Tulasis just won't untangle, soak them in room temperature water to facilitate their separation. Carefully plant them immediatly, and water thoroughly.

Seedlings in seed flats can be lifted out by taking as large a scoop of soil around the seedling as possible, especially to the bottom of the container, repotting into small clay pots and watering thoroughly.

Place all seedlings in light shade for several days, and then gradually introduce them into stronger light. Once they have settled into their new home, they should grow quite rapidly.

Keeping Tulasi Healthy

Srimati Tulasi devi is native to the tropical climate of India and thrives best in a tropical environment. In much of the temperate areas of the world, Tulasi will grow outside nicely during the summer months but must be given additional protection during the winter in any area where the night time temperatures consistently dip below 50°F. One must always try to create a warm sunny tropical environment around her at all times, even during the winter, for her to be comfortable. But, the most important ingredient in caring for Tulasi is not a material need, rather, it is your devotion. Srila Prabhupada stated many times that Srimati Tulasi devi is the "spiritual barometer" of the community or household and where she flourishes, devotion to Lord Krsna is present. However, prayers alone cannot sustain Tulasi, andher material needs must be met properly. One can show one's devotion to Tulasi devi by providing the topmost care for her. One should always be conscious of her needs throughout the day, and should keep her foremost in your mind. For example, if you are taking your Tulasi outside daily for sunshine, then do do always at the proper time. Do not take her out late one day, or skip a day, or forget to bring her inside as soon as the sun is off her and the temperature begins to drop. Treat her like a pure

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devotee should be treated, treat her like a wife of Lord Narayana, a constant companion of Lord Krsna, and the Queen of Vrndavana should be treated, for this is who she really is.

Tulasi devi's material health throughout the year will depend upon the proper balance of the following: light, water, temperature, humidity, soil, nutrients, correct pot size, and staying disease and pest free.

All of these eight items must be in proper balance at all times or Tulasi devi will not maintain her health. Yellowing leaves, browning leaves, leaves that have reddish tinges at their edges, shedding of leaves, and small or aborted manjaris are all sings of stress and a careful analysis of her environment should be made promptly.

Light

Tulasi devi thrives best in natural sunlight. She should receive 3-5 hours of direct sunlight daily, preferably morning to early afternoon sun.Plants grown without sufficient sunlight are spindly, that is they have thin weak stems and branches with long stem lengths between the pair of leaves, large pale green leaves and few if any flowers. In extremely insufficient light, the leaves will drop off and branches will abort.

Tulasi devi can do quite well inside if given a sunny window that receives the required hours of sunlight. As stated previously, one should, however, rotate Tulasi every day a quarter turn to kepp her from "leaning" into the light. This will keep her growing straight and will allow all branches access to sunlight so they will develop evenly, resulting in a beautifully symmetrical Tulasi.

If you do not have a window that receives sufficient sunlight, then artificial lighting must be provided for her. Regular incandescent houselights are virtually useless for Tulasi; instead, lights that mimic the wavelenghts of sunshine are required. Daylight and natural white fluorescent tubes, used together; or daylight tubes used with "gro-lux" or "gro-lite" tubes, or halogen tubes will provide the wavelengths needed by Tulasi. If virtually all her light requirement is to be provided by artificial lights, then she must be essentially surrounded by an aura of light. Do not try to rely on a single spotlight to replace the sun. Instead, you should suspend two 40 watt tubes in one lighting fixture above Tulasi and two more tubes on her right side and two more on her left side. Aluminum foil can be added between the fixtures to act as a reflective hood. Because the efficiency of these lights drops off rapidly, you should have the lights as close to her as possible, but nor touching her. The lights should be left on 14-16 hours every day, or less if she is receiving some direct sunlight.It is important to remember that all environmental changes concerning Tulasi must be done gradually. If you have had Tulasi inside your house all winter and now it is

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warm enough to take her outside again, please introduce her into the outside environment gradually. Do so by putting her outside for only an hour or so daily for a while and then increase the duration of her stay outside until she is fully adjusted to her new surroundings. Leaving her outside with no adjustment period may cause her to sunsclad and go into shock. If Tulasi's leaves are given too much sun too quickly before they can adjust properly, bronzed or whitened areas will appear in the leaf blades, then these areas will die and turn brown. The leaves have actually been sunburned. Remember, the glass in window panes filter out some of the burning rays of the sun, and Tulasi must be slowly introduced into the full strength of the sunn to prevent this burning fro occuring. Any sort of sudden drastic change whether in duration of sunlight, of temperature or of humidity, may cause Tulasi to go into shock as she struggles to adjust to the different environmental conditions. A symptom of shock is that her lower leaves will suddenly fall off, sometimes they yellow before dropping and sometimes she will drop them while still green. If this happens, please try to moderate her environment by introducing any changes gradually.

Water

The best time to water Tulasi devi is in the early morning as this will insure an adequate water supply is available to meet the demands of photosynthesis and increasing transpiration. Using a watering can with a long spout will allow one to water gently without disturbing the soil.Watering with a "hard" stream of water may wash the soil away exposing the roots and making them susceptible to disease, and will also cause compaction of the soil interfering with soil aeration. Because city water is full of chemicals, it is best to use purified or distilled (bottled) water for Tulasi devi. If this is not possible, then at least let the city water stand overnight in a non-corrosive container to allow the chlorine and perhaps other chemicals to dissipate. Aerate the water by pouring it from one container to another several times allowing it to travel "through the air" as much as possible. Never use "hard" water that has been chemically treated to make it "soft".

The amount of water to give Tulasi will depend on her size and individual nature, the soil type, the container and weather conditions, especially the temperature and humidity. At least once a week water her thoroughly so that water flows freely from the drainage hole in the bottom of the pot. This ensures that water to the lower levels in the pot is replenished, and prevents the excess salts in water from building up in the soil where they would eventually interfere with water absorption. She should be watered again when the topsoil feels dry, this time giving her enough water to keep her moist all day, but not soggy. Do not keep her so wet that when more water is added it instantly runs out of the bottom of the pot, as this continued waterlogged condition decreases the amount of oxygen in the soil, causing disease (especially fungal diseases) or even death to the roots. When the roots are not

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functioning properly, they cannot absorb sufficient water for the leaves and the leaf tissue begins to die. The leaves will turn pale, and/or develop brown, dry edges before falling from the plant (Note: too low humidity will also produce dry brown leaf edges). The opposite extreme, that is, soil that is too dry, is also harmful to roots, even if the plant is not dry enough to wilt. Soil that is kept constantly a little too dry will cause Tulasi to develop a slightly greyish or bronzed color to the leaves which may then turn pale green and her growth may be slow. Dried out soil may "crust over" or physically shrink slightly and will pull away from the sides of the pot.When this happens water will not immediately penetrate the soil, but will puddle up on the surface or rapidly run down the side of the pot and out the bottom without wetting the soil ball. If this happens, plunge the entire pot in a bucket of water to let the soil absorb water, or if this is not feasible, add small amounts of water to the surface, allow time for it to soak in and slowly and patiently add more until the soil is again at a proper moisture level. If by accident Tulasi does wilt from not enough soil moisture, remove her from the sun and heat and give her water. Be prepared that this may be a shock to her, and may make her drop her lower leaves.

Knowing when and how much to water Tulasi is one of the most difficult but also one of the most important factors in her maintenance. It may be helpful to pick up your potted Tulasi daily to feel how heavy she is, as a pot with ample water will be much heavier than a pot that is becoming dry. By using the weight of the pot, the dryness of the soil surface and the current weather conditions, one will soon be able to keep Tulasi's soil at the proper moisture level.

Temperature

During the growing season Tulasi devi prefers temperatures around 80°F in the day and 65°F or so in the night. Tulasi can handle temperatures over 100°F but her growth is slowed with the stress. Likewise, Tulasi can do nicely with evening temperatures into the 50's, but again her growth will be slower than under ideal conditions.

In very hot weather Tulasi devi can overheat and wilt despite sufficient soil moisture. If this occurs, do not water her, as this will just waterlog her soil. Instead, remove her from the sun into filtered light, and spray a fine mist on her to cool her down. If the humidity is very low, raising the humidity around her (see next section) will help decrease her transpiration rate: i.e., the rate of water loss from her leaves. If the humidity is so high that moisture cannot evaporate from her and thus heat cannot dissipate properly, then try to increase the air circulation around her.

In the winter it is the night temperatures that are the crucial factor for Tulasi devi, especially Krsna Tulasis as they are extremely sensitive to cold. Tulasi can still grow with night temperatures even in the low 50's, but may have much difficulty

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surviving night temperatures consistently in the 40's. An older shrubby Tulasi may lose her leaves and become dormant during this season if subjected to the cold and cold resprout in the spring. If the winter temperatures in your area fall into the 40's, you must be prepared to give your Tulasi adequate protection from the cold.If it is not feasible for you to bring her indoors and your winters are not severely cold, a simple greenhouse can be built around her using galvanized water pipes as a frame over which is placed 4mm clear plastic taped on with weatherproof duct tape. An electric heater can be placed inside to keep her warm. These mini-greenhouses must be adequately ventilated to prevent heat buildup in the sunshine.

If you have Tulasi devi indoors in a heated place, be sure to put her in an area free from cold or hot drafts. In severe climates pull her away from windows at night because the coldness seeping in through a window may cause enough shock that she may even abort the leaves and branches next to the window. Always be very careful not to put her in the direct heat from a heater (or, in summer, the cold from an air conditioner) as this will be too much stress for her. The stress reaction to hot drafts range in severity from dropping her leaves to the leaves shriveling and turning black overnight to death of entire branches or even Tulasi herself. A final note about centrally heated homes: the heated air is usually very dry, so pay special attention to the humidity around her.

Extreme temperature fluxes between night and day, or abrupt changes in temperature are also stressful to her. For example, a low night temperature followed by a warm sunny morning may cause her to wilt. This happens because her leaves have warmed up faster than the cold roots can take in water. On morning such as these, it is best to introduce her into the sun gradually and insure a high humidity level around her that will reduce the transpiration rate and also serve to buffer the temperature changes, letting her heat up more slowly.

Humidity

Humidity refers to the amount of water vapor in the air. If the air is very dry, whether in summer or winter, it may cause Tulasi's leaves to lose water to the air faster then her roots can take water inside her. This will make her leaves curl and/or the edges of the leaves die turning brown and crispy. In addition, her flower buds may dry and fall off without opening, and she may look a little wilted despite adequate soil moisture. To alleviate these conditions, the humidity must be increased around her. If she is in a greenhouse or on a patio, hose down the floor so that the evaporating water will travel through her leaves. She can also be placed in a waterproof tray that has a deep enough lip to hold a layer of gravel or perlite (sponge rock) and water. The bottom of Tulasi's pot should sit on the gravel above the water level, or better yet, be elevated on slates above the gravel so that air can circulate freely beneath the pot as well. Misting Tulasi with a hand held sprayer will help raise

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the humidity, as will grouping two or more Tulasis together so that each is benefited by the other's water vapor given off during transpiration.

In very dry conditions, a wire frame can be formed over Tulasi and a clear plastic bag can be inverted over her to create a mini-greenhouse. If this is done, partially remove the bag when Tulasi is in direct sunlight or harmful excess heat will build up. If the bag steams, it is too hot inside and use of the bag may need to be restricted to the night and when she is completely out of the sun.

Soil

Tulasi requiers a rich but well draining soil for best growth. Good drainage is essential for a healthy Tulasi. Soil is composed of solid particulate matter and the space around those particles. The space is occupied by water or by air. All plant roots need oxygen to remain healthy and they get the oxygen from the air spaces in the soil. In a soil that does not drain properly, or is watered too much or too often, these spaces fill up with water, thus depleting the roots of needed oxygen. The roots then cannot function properly and may begin to die. The leaves may begin to yellow or to develop brown margins in response to the roots' inability to function properly.

Fortunately, Tulasi devi does do well in a goof brand of sterilized commercial potting soil such as Unigro or Supersoil; stay away from inferior brands that are mostly sawmill by-products, and also avoid the brands that list "sludge" (a by-product of sewage treatment) as a component. For large Tulasi pots it is helpful to form your own soil mix to improve the drainage capacity and soil richness. To two parts potting soil add one part compost, leafmold, earthworm castings or other decomposed organic matter (to supply additional nutrients and to help improve the soil structure) and one part clean coarse sand such as masons' sand (to improve the soil drainage; never use beach sand as it is too salty). Adding 1 tablespoon each of pulverized phosphate rock and potash rock (granite dust or greensand) to each pot will help insure these essential nutrients to Tulasi. If there is no compost available, substitute vermiculite, but be ready to supply additional nutrients to Tulasi (see next section). Perlite or sponge rock can substitute for coarse sand as both will improve a soil's drainage.

It should be noted that using soil straight from a garden in her pot is not such a good idea because disease organisms could be present in the soil. Also, never make the mistake of putting earthworms in her pot.Earthworms are a welcome addition to the garden soil, but are very unwelcome inside a pot with its limited feeding area, and are certain to damage Tulasi's roots.Sometimes even the best of soils will become compacted down due to the force of watering. This will decrease water and air penetration into the soil. To alleviate this, every month gently turn over the top inch or so of soil in her pot with a small fork or other instrument, taking special care not to disturb the roots.

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NUTRITION

Good nutrition is just as important in plants as it is in animals.Plants require 10 nutrients in comparatively large quantities (called macroelements) and 6 microelements in small quantities. Only three of these elements, namely oxygen, hydrogen and carbon are derived from the atmosphere or from water; the rest must be present in the soil for plants to be healthy, and this is why having Tulasi in a good soil mix is so important.But a Tulasi potted even in the best of soils will require supplemental nutrients to replenish those elements as she uses them.

It is usually nitrogen that is the first nutrient that must be replenished in a pot (nitrogen gas makes up 78% of the atmosphere but cannot be utilized by plants; instead they must derive their nitrogen from nitrate (NO3) or ammonia (NH3) in the soil). Tulasi's lower leaves will turn yellow and fall off when she no longer has sufficient nitrogen (note: yellowing and shedding of lower leaves is also a sign of shock from a sudden environmental shift). Nitrogen and most other key nutrients can be replenished by adding a 1" layer of aged cow manure to the top layer of soil, or by watering every other week with a tea made by soaking 1 part dried manure or other composted material overnight in 3 parts water, diluted to weak tea color. Always use aged, dried manure and never fresh manure as the latter will burn her. Her leaves should green up in 2-3 days following the application of fertilizer.Although the manure and composted organic matter added to her soil will provide for the majority of good nutrition for Tulasi devi, these may not satisfy her iron requirement and Tulasi may need additions of iron several times a year. A sure sign of this is her upper leaves and manjaris being a very pale yellow green rather than deep green.

Nitrogen is a very volatile element and can evaporate from soil in hot weather, so be cautious about keeping Tulasi supplied with the necessary nutrients in the summer, especially since she is rapidly growing at this time. Sometimes in very hot weather cow manure alone does not supply nitrogen fast enough, and select commercial fertilizers can then be used to keep her green. Use only those fertilizers such as "Miracle Gro" whose nutrients are derived from ground rock and other natural ingredients; do not use a fertilizer with slaughterhose or sewer treatment facility byproducts.

Extreme care must be taken any time supplemental nutrients are added to the soil of a potted Tulasi. Do not make the mistake of thinking that if a little soil amendment is good, a lot must be better (Water is taken up passively by plant roots, that is, no energy is expended by a plant to get the water to enter the roots. Water will flow naturally from an area of low salt concentration into an area of higher salt concentration. In healthy soils, the area of higher salt concentration is within the

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plant cells themselves, thus water will enter the roots. In over-fertilized soils, there are so many salts in the soil that water will flow out of the roots just as fast as it will flow into the root, thus the plant essentially cannot absorb water. In severely overfertilized soils, water will flow out of the roots into the soil, making the plant wilt.). If the concentration of nutrients in her soil builds up too high, a condition called "fertilizer burn" will resulut. Tulasi will wilt despite adequate soil moisture because the high concentration of salts in the soil (nutrients are actually beneficial types of salts) make it impossible for her to absorb water from the soil. Sometimes instead of wilting or in conjunction with wilting, the growing points at the tips of the branches will quickly turn black and die, and black patches will appear at both edges of her young leaves before they drop. At the first sign of this happening, immediately flush Tulasi with lots and lots of fresh water to wash these excess salts out of the soil. Spend at lest 15 minutes adding water to the pot, letting it flow out, etc. This should arrest the spread of the black areas but nothing can be done to save the blackened tissue. To help prevent fertilizer burn from occuring, be sure to water her thoroughly once a week allowing water to come out her drainage hole, and follow alldirections on packaged soil amendments. Tulasi should be given additional nutrients only when she is actively growing and can use them. Therefore, decrease or even stop the supplements in autumn and winter when she is not growing. A dosage of nutrients that was ideal during the summer can burn her in autumn and winter.

TRANSPLANTING

If Tulasi devi is healthy, she will eventually outgrow her pot and will require a larger one. Tulasi may need to be transplanted when her roots are coming out the drainage hole at the bottom of the pot. Examing her roots will precisely indicate if she needs a larger pot. After watering her and letting her drain thoroughly, turn her upside down with her stem between your fingers and your palm on the dirt at the base of the stem and rap the edge of the pot on the edge of a table. Tulasi should slide out of the pot. If the roots have not filled the pot, simply repot her back in the same pot.But, if the roots completely fill the soil area so that the root ball is in the shape of the pot, it is time to transplant. If the roots are filling the pot and Tulasi looks too big for her container and she wilts between normal waterings, it is actually past the proper time for transplanting.

If a bigger pot is necessary, choose a pot that is only one or two sizes bigger than her existing pot. This should be one that is 1" larger in all dimensions than her current pot. The only time one would use a pot larger than two sizes is when you are past the time for normal transplanting and Tulasi has grown so large that she is completely out of proportion to the pot size. If this has happened, then choose a pot size whose diameter is 1/3 to 1/2 the height of the plant. Never plant in a larger sized pot because the "extra" soil will retain too much water and problems will occur in

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root development. The pot should be of unglazed clay as they allow air movement through the sides of the pot; avoid plastic or glazed clay pots, and a drainage hole is essential.

The process of transplanting can be quite stressful to Tulasi if certain precautions are not taken. To help prevent Tulasi from wilting, never transplant in full sun or during the heat of the day. Instead, transplant only when it is cool outside such as on an overcast day after 4:00 when the heat of the day has dissipated. Also try to avoid drying winds. Be sure to have her new pot completely ready for her before you tap her out of her old pot, and work carefully but quickly to avoid any damage to her.

The first step in transplanting is to soak the new clay pot in water until it stops bubbling. New pots are very porous and will pull water out of the soil away from the plant if not watered previously. Next, put broken pottery shards at the bottom of the pot over the drainage hole to keep the soil from running out the bottom of the pot, but do not block water drainage. For large pots, a layer of gravel at the bottom will also help drainage conditions. Place a sufficient amount of new soil in the pot so that Tulasi will be brought up to the proper level. Gently place Tulasi in her new pot, and if you can, carefully separate and straighten any roots that have gone around and around in a spiral in the old pot. If you don't these roots may continue to spiral around the new pot rather than growing out into the new growing medium. Add new soil around her, being careful to keep her straight and not allowing her to lean at an angle, and gently tamp the new soil in place. The new soil level should not be lower than the previous soil level, or her roots will become exposed and they will rot, nor should it be higher than the previous soil level, or her stem may rot. Always leave a 1/2" to 1" space between the soil level and the top of the pot to facilitate watering.

Water her thoroughly and keep her in a shady spot for a few days before reintroducing her into the direct sun. Water her next only when the soil is dry, as there is quite a bit of water reserve in the new pot.

DISEASE AND PESTS

It is always said that an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure, and this could not be more true in keeping Tulasi devi pest and disease free. Always maintain her home or area with the topmost cleanliness standard to help ward off the spread of disease. Remove all fallen leaves from the soil and bench area on a regular basis and use 3:1 bleach:water solution to sterilize all used pots, trowels, scissors, and other equipment you may be using in her care.

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The best defense in keeping Tulasi disease and pest free is to keep her healthy. Many insect pests and diseases prey on a weakened plant first and may never attack a healthy Tulasi. However, sometimes despite your best efforts, an infestation of a harmful pest will occur. An attack of any pest should be dealt with promptly because some insects reproduce at incredible speeds, and can do major damage rapidly. In addition, some insects serve as carriers to fungal, bacteria, and viral diseases that can be deadly to Tulasi devi.

It should be mentioned that Srila Prabhupada once gave Bhavatarini devi dasi permission to prune back a Tulasi when her roots were partially destroyed through an insect attack. She was then pruned back to a size that the reduced root system could properly handle, thus saving her life. It may be permissible to prune severely, uncontrollably infested above ground parts to prevent spread to the rest of the plant. However, this is an emergency measure only, and to have to do so when the infestation got out of hand through neglect is probably an offence to her. One must carefully watch your Tulasi daily, as a few days of inattention could allow an insect population to explode out of hand.

Srila Prabhupada said that Tulasi devi will stay healthy if she is kept clean, and the best way to keep her clean is to give her baths. One may simply spray her off with a garden hose to keep dust and insects off her leaves or one may need to give her a bath with soap to cleanse her more thoroughly. The soap you use should be a vegetable based (castile) soap made with potassium salts. This type of salts is fatal to insects. There are many "insecticidal soaps" sold as such comercially, but even popular soaps like "Dr. Bronner's" fit this description and can be used.

If Tulasi is small, you may want to bathe her by dunking her upside down in a bucket of room temperature soapy water mixed according to directions for insecticidal soap or at the rate of 1 T/qt. for Dr. Bronner's. First cover the pot and soil with plastic so that the soil does not fall out when she is upside down. Place your hand on the soil with her stem between your fingers to help support her. Tip her upside down and immerse Tulasi in the soapy water and swish her gently for 5-10 seconds only, then slowly remove her from the soap. Next rinse her in a bucket of clean water or under the fine spray of the garden hose. Shake off the excess water and turn her upright slowly. If she still has water on her leaves when she is turned upright she may be unable to support herself because of the excess weight of the water, and she will droop or even break.

If Tulasi is too large to be immersed in a bucket, simply cover the soil with plastic, wrapping it tightly around the stem, and spray her with a squirt bottle filled with soap spray. It is often helpful to tip the pot at a 45° angle to facilitate getting the undersides of the leaves as this is where most insects hide. If you have Tulasi inside where it is difficult to spray her, try spraying each leaf with a squirt bottle or wiping each leaf with a soft rag to remove dirt and grime. It may be helpful to purchase a

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one gallon pump sprayer available in any garden store and to move her onto a balcony or even right outside the front door and give her a refreshing bath.

It is important to bathe Tulasi devi daily with water to keep her very clean especially in the summer months. Soap baths can be given once a week or every other week as a preventive measure, or one can wait and use soap only at the first sign of an insect attack. It should be noted that using soap as an insect control is a very popular organic gardening technique, however, most organic gardeners leave the soapy water on the plant to dry, and either never rinse it off, or do so after several hours. However, there is a slight danger that this could burn the margins of the leaves, especially with repeated sprayings, and therefore it is recommended that the soap spray be washed off of Tulasi's delicate leaves before any damage can occur.

If Tulasi is attacked by insects despite the baths, there are certain sprays one may turn to for assistance. Chemicals that naturally repel or kill insects have been isolated from certain plants and are available to the organic gardener as an excellent alternative to the highly toxic, environmentally damaging chemical sprays prevalent in western agriculture. Pyrethrum is from pulverized Chrysanthemum flowers and is effective against aphids, whiteflies, and caterpillars. It should be applied in late afternoon or evening (i.e., never in thhe sun) and should not be use with soap. Rotenone is from the root of the Derris plant and works as a stomach poison on aphids, spider mites, ants, and true bugs. Diatomaceous earth is silica fragments from the skeletal remains of tiny sea animals called diatoms. The tiny slivers of silica lacerate the insects' exoskeleton and the insect dies from dehydration. Hot chile peppers mixed with water will discourage chewing insects. Rubbing alcohol mixed 3:1 or applied full strengh then washed off with water is effective against some soft bodied insects and fungi. Neem oil, derived from the Indian Neem tree whose leaves are used as a spice and whose twigs are used as cavity preventing tooth brushes, is also an appetite suppressant or growth inhibitor to aphids, mites, mealybugs, and whiteflies. It has been difficult to find in the U.S., but is now marketed as Bio-Neem by Safer, Inc. Finally, a "dormant oil" spray refers to a type of oil spray that forms a physical film around the insect suffocating it. These oil sprays are highly effective, but cannot be used on leaves; hence, their use has to be restricted to woody plants during their dormant (i.e., leafless and resting) stage. Now, however, an extremely fine paraffin based oil named "SunSpray Oil" that can be sprayed onto Tulasi leaves with no damage to them is available and is very effective against mealybugs, scales, spidermites and aphids. This spray can be ordered from Gardens Alive! Ask for Sun Spray Ultra Fine Spray Oil. [Gardens Alive!/5100 Schenley Place/Lawrenceburg, IN 47025.] (Note: This is the only type of spray oil one should use on Tulasi. Do not use petroleum-based oil sprays.)

Of course not all insects are plant eaters and some insects prey only on plant-eating insects. Having these types of insects around will assist you in keeping

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Tulasi insect free, either by letting them roam on Tulasi directly if you have a problem with insect pests, or letting them roam the outdoor area around her to try to keep the pest population (and likewise the probability of attack) at a minimum. The most famous insect eater is the lady bug or lady bird beetle. There are 350 species of this beetle in the U.S. with coloring that varies from red to red/yellow to orange with black spots with white spots on the thorax. Both the adults and larvae eat aphids, mealybugs, and scales. The larvae hatch from orange oval eggs laid in clusters under the leaves and grow into black with orange spotted "dragons" pupating in about 3 weeks into the familiar lady bug.

Green or brown lacewings eat aphids, spider mites and mealybugs at both the adult and larvae stage. The larvae hatch from a white egg laid on a long stalk attached to the leaf or stem surface and grow into brown alligator-like larvae. Other insects such as assassin bugs, ambush bugs, praying mantis and various spiders all can provide service to Tulasi devi by helping control insects.Lady bugs and lacewings and other insect eating insects mentioned under their specific prey below can be obtained at a local nursery or through insectaries such as Rincon Vitova (Rincon Vitova/P.O.Box 95/Oak View, CA 93022).

What follows next is a brief description of some common insect and arachnid pests, fungal, bacterial, and viral diseases that are known to infest Tulasi in North America. If you are unsure about the identity of a pest problem, many garden nurseries will offer assistance, or your local agriculture extension agent (whose job is to identify pest and diseases in local agricultural crops) will also be of aid. The nursery and extension agents I have dealt with have been extremely respectful of Srimati Tulasi devi when told of her elevated status, so do not be afraid to approach them for assistance.

APHIDS

Aphids are small, soft-bodied insects that may be green, black, brown, yellow or orange. They are all essentially pear-shaped with long antennae held over their backs, and 2 slender tubes protruding from the end of their abdomens. Aphids reproduce asexually, giving birth to live young so a tremendous aphid population can build up quickly. After a few generations are asexually produced, aphids with wings are born, and these fly to new plants. Males are produced only at the end of the season and, after mating, the resulting eggs can overwinter till cool, but not cold conditions again favor aphid development. Aphids tend to cluster together on a plant and suck the sap, deforming young shoots and causing leaves to yellow and drop. They secrete a sweet honeydew which attracts ants and favors the development of a black sooty mold on Tulasi's leaves. Aphids molt as they grow and their whitish, shriveled shed skins will litter Tulasi's lower leaves.

Aphids can be removed with forceful sprays of water, and exposure to soap, neem oil, or SunSpray oil are all fatal to them. Aphids are readily eaten by lady bugs

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and lacewing adults and larvae, and by the bright orange wormlike larvae of the aphid midge. Syrphid fly larvae, who are about 1/3" long with bodies that taper to a pointed head, also love aphids. The adult syrphid flies look and act like small bees with yellow striped abdomens and are frequent visitors to Tulasi manjaris.

ANTS

Ants should never be allowed near Tulasi for two reasons. Ants "farm" aphids, mealybugs, and scales. That is, they protect these insects and even move them from plant to plant in exchange for the sugary fluid called honeydew secreted by these insects. Thus, the presence of ants could mean a future pest problem. Secondly, ants become detrimental to Tulasi devi when they build nests in her pots. This interferes with root growth, or ants may even clip through roots to give them more room for their underground homes.

To encourage ants to move on, water Tulasi thoroughly to make the ants leave their nest. Place a stick against the pot to give the ants an escape route or they will march around and around the pot rim and re-enter the soil when the water has drained through. Dusting the pot rim and table top with rotenone or diatomaceous earth discourages ants from returning. Sticky traps like "Tanglefoot" will also physically prevent ants from entering Tulasi's pot.

CATERPILLARS

A wide variety of caterpillars find Tulasi leaves to be a very delectable meal. They have incredibly voracious appetites and must be detected early or will heavily damage her. There are two general categories of caterpillars: those that stay in her foliage 24 hours a day, and those that hide in the ground during the day and emerge to feed at night. The most common example of the foliage living caterpillar that strikes Tulasi is the cabbage looper. Despite its name, they feed on practically anything, including cabbage and Tulasi. They are called loopers because the larvae have front feet and hind feet but no feet in between and they arch their backs up when they walk, like an inch worm. When a caterpillar such as the looper is very very small, ha may be able to eat only the bottom layer of the leaf and the tougher almost clear top layer of the leaf (called the epidermis) is left intact. Thus small clear or silvery patches are visible on the upper leaf surface. As the caterpillar grows, however, he will begin to consume entire leaf blades, leaving only the leaf stalk. Along with his voracious appetite, the caterpillar produces abundant amounts of dark brown frass, or fecal pellets. Noticing these is a sure sign that caterpillars are present, and their location can be used to help pinpoint where the caterpillar is on the plant. Caterpillars can be excellently camouflaged because they can absorb the plant's

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pigments and appear the identical color as the plant (hence, they are green on Rama Tulasis, and purple on Krsna Tulasis). Look carefully for them as they will be motionless if they know you are looking for them. Spraying with aa hard blast of water helps t dislodge a young caterpillar, otherwise, one has to patiently look over the entire Tulasi plant until the culprit is located. When the cabbage looper is mature, it will roll leaves around itself and pupate, then emerge as bark-like brown moths with a silver marking on the wings.Caterpillars that live in the soil and come up to feed at night include cutworms. These are brownish, greyish or greenish worms that curl up when disturbed, and pupate into brown moths. They are especially deadly to seedlings as the tend to eat through the young seedling stalk or to consume the entire seedling in a single evening. A roll of cardboard around a seedling pushed a few inches into the ground and extending a few inches above the ground will help deter cutworms. Checking Tulasi at night with a flashlight will help spot the worms and they can also be flushed out of the soil during watering and disposed of.

There are several things you can do if Tulasi is constantly plagued with loopers, cutworms, or other caterpillars. Growing Tulasi under a protective shield of horticultural fabric such as Reemay, Agronet, or Vispore will physically prevent the moths from getting to Tulasi to lay eggs. Also, the adults of loopers and cutworms are night flying moths that are attracted to light. Installing a "bug-zapper" light near Tulasi will significantly reduce the adult populations, hopefully before they lay eggs. Finally there are two different biological controls for caterpillars that can be used on very severe and continuous population outbreaks. Bacillus thuringiensis is a bacteria that multiplies only within the caterpillar and causes paralysis. A solution of this bacteria (sold under the trade names Dipel and Thuricide or as "Bt") is sprayed onto the leaves where it is ingested by the caterpillar. Also, braconid wasps, tachinid flies and other insects lay their eggs on the caterpillars and the larvae of the wasp and fly develop within the dying caterpillar. The mature adults burst out of the skin of the dead caterpillar and look for other caterpillars in which to lay their eggs.

Fungal Gnats

Fungal gnats are small (2.5 mm), slow flying gnats that appear to pop out of the soil. The larvae do live in the upper 3 cm of humus rich soils and feed on organic matter. Although the larvae can feed on plant roots, they appear to be more of a nuisance than a threat to Tulasi devi.The adults can be trapped onto yellow sticky paper, placed horizontally near the soil surface, and the larvae population can be lowered by removing and replacing the top 3 cm of soil (taking care of course not to damage her roots) or by drenching the soil with a special H-14 strain of Bacillus thuringiensis (see Caterpillar section).

Mealybugs

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Mealys are white or tannish soft-bodied insects with many small legs that become covered with white waxy secretions when they are mature. Egg cases are carried on the back of the female in a mass of white fibers making them look like little tufts of cotton. Mealybugs tend to nestle in cracks and crevices such as between the leaf stalk and stem and underneath the small bracts (tiny leaves) on manjari stalks. They suck the juice from Tulasi and make her weak. Spraying Tulasi with water or soapy water can dislodge them, or placing a drop of alcohol or "fingernail polish remover"(acetone) on them will cause them to die. Neem oil and SunSpray oil are also useful. Severe infestations could be controlled by the "mealybug destroyer" beetle, Cryptolaemus montrouzieri, a black shiny beetle with a reddish head and thorax and reddish tips on the wing coverings. The larvae of this beetle look something like a giant mealybug so care should be taken to distinguish bewteen these larvae which are beneficial and the mealybugs which are deleterious.

A type of mealybug can live in the soil and suck sap from the roots. These mealys can be knocked off the roots of an unpotted Tulasi with a spray of water or, in severe infestations, the soil can be drenched with an insecticidal soap solution.

Scales

Immature scale insects do have legs and can crawl around Tulasi, but are usually too small to be noticed. As they grow, they settle down anywhere on the leaves or bark and become immobile. When they are first apparent, they appear as small soft oval brown disks; when mature, the scale will be a dark brown to white bump about 1/8" long. This is the hard shell around the living insect. Large populations of scales aree more often found on the bar rather than leaves and they suck the plant sap. Some scales secrete a toxin that kills the branch. Scale insects can be fairly easily scraped off the branch, then the branch should be bathed in soap to help destroy the eggs laid underneath the adults. Neem oil and SunSpray oils should be effective against scales, and the adults and larvae of the Vedalia beetle feed on scales.

Spider Mites

Spider mites are so small that the mature adults appear only as tiny red, brown or whitish dots on the underside of leaves. They multiply rapidly by laying eggs along the leaf veins and stems, which hatch in 3-5 days and reach maturity in a week. Spider mites do tremendous damage because they inject a substance into the leaf causing the tissue to break down making tiny yellow dots appear on both sides of the leaf blade. As the infestation progresses, the leaves become dry and yellow, then entire branches wither.By this stage, the branch is covered with webbing spun by the spider mites.

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Mites hibernate over severe winters and begin laying eggs in the spring. They are prevalent when the weather is hot and dry. When these conditions prevail, pay special attention to each leaf, looking closely at the lower surface, hopefully with the assistance of a hand lens. Remember that yellowish dots on a leaf are a sure sign of spider mites. If you find spider mites, immediately take action. Bathe your Tulasi with soap, and twice daily bathe her with water. Repeat the soap baths once a week and continue the water baths daily until the population is brought under control.Expect spider mites to be a problem as long as the weather remains hot and dry, but special care for your Tulasi will get her through the outbreak with little or no damage. Others have used a slurry of 1/2 C. buttermilk, 4 C. whole wheat or white flour, and 5 gallons water to smother the mites. Neem oil and SunSpray oils also work very well. Predator mites (tiny tiny mites that feed on spider mites) are available commercially, and lacewings and lady beetles (Stethorus picipes and other species; these are different than lady bugs) also are known to eat spider mites.

Stem Borers and Leaf Miners

There are several types of moths or beetles that lay eggs on the stem of plants and whose larvae chew their way inside to feed on the internal stem tissue. This causes sudden wilting of otherwise healthy branches. If one of Tulasi's branches wilts overnight, and you can see a little hole in the stem right below the area of wilt, the culprit is probably a stem borer larva. This stem should be clipped at this point to dispose of the larva. If stem borers become numerous, Tulasi may have to be protected under horticultural fabrics that will prevent the adults from gaining access to Tulasi to lay their eggs.

Leaf miners are insect larvae of various moths or flies that live and feed inside a leaf. Some chew circular holes, and some chew tunnels through the internal leaf tissue; both kinds of damage can usually be noticed as tracings on the leaf surface. Pull off any infected leaves, and if infestation is severe, protect Tulasi under a tent of horticultural fabric.

Whiteflies

Adult whiteflies are 1/8" long insects with white bodies and pure white wings. The adults tend to conglomerate on the lower surface of the upper leaves and will fly off the plant all at once when disturbed. The females lay up to 300 eggs that hatch into small white to greyish instars. By the time the instars are visible, they have become immobile and have settled on the lower leaf surface where they suck sap before pupating to the adults. These instars are covered by a waxy layer protecting them from the soap sprays that are fatal to the adults.

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They can, however, be blasted from the leaf with a hard spray of water, or gently rubbed off a wet leaf, but care should be taken not to damage the leaves. SunSpray Oil can offer some help in controlling the immature whiteflies. Whiteflies do best in cool, humid weather and cannot survive when the humidity is very low, especially if temperatures are high. In optimum conditions, they reproduce at an incredible speed and are very difficult to control. The adults are attracted to neon yellow or lime green colors and traps are available commercially that have these colors on a square of cardboard coated with a sticky substance. These traps should be placed vertically beside Tulasi's foliage. Whiteflies can also be controlled by the wasp Encenia farmosa that lays its eggs in the instars, although time is needed for this control method to work.

Bacterial, Fungal, & Viral Diseases

Both bacteria and fungi can invade all parts of a plant with fatal consequences. Soil that lacks proper drainage and aeration either through poor soil structure or through overwatering is an invitation to bacterial of fungal root rot. Tulasi's roots will be attacked by these organisms and will turn brownn and rotten. Her leaves will yellow and her growth will be stunted and branchhes will begin to die. If lef unchecked, Tulasi will die; however, root rot is extremely difficult to control. Letting the soil dry out as much as possible while keeping her under high humidity to prevent wilting may be of some help, but the best defense is to always maintain proper soil drainage and aeration to prevent the disease from occuring.

Various diseases called "wilts" occur when stem tissues become infected with bacteria or fungi. When their populations build they clog the plants vascular system preventing water transport. Tulasi may show a slight stunting, then wilting at midday and recovery overnight, followed by more severe and lasting wilting. Streaks and lesions may appear on the stems. If the wilted branch is cut, the internal tissue looks dark and is gooey rather than healthy white. Usually the plant cannot be saved.

Several other forms of fungi are also known to attack Tulasi devi.Powdery mildew and downy mildew appear as pale fuzzy patches on the leaves that, if left untreated, completely cover the leaf which subsequenty turns brown and dies. Mildews tend to attack during periods of high humidity especially if the air is still. Improving the air circulation around an infested Tulasi and dusting with sulphur or copper powder can usually arrest the spread of the fungus. Rust fungi grow internally within the leaf or stem tissue and send up pustules (fruiting bodies) through the leaf surface that appear as red, yellow, orange or brown bumps. This type of fungi may not be so readily controlled with sulphur or copper and may require a stronger fungicide. Check with your agricultural extension agent or local nursery man.

Certain viruses attack plants and are often spread from plant to plant through insect vectors. Virus infections appear mainly as discolored spots or streaks

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on leaf or stem tissue or as curling and stunting of the affected tissue. Control is difficult; check with your agricultural extension agent or local nursery man for indentification and assistance.

Collecting Leaves and Manjaris

Tulasi devi is blessed with the benediction of always being present on the Lord's lotus feet and on all preparations offered to Him. Tulasi can be offered only to Krsna and His Visnu-tattva expansions; i.e., Lord Balarama, Lord Nityananda, Lord Visnu, Lord Nrsimhadeva, etc., but never to anyone else. To collect leaves for this purpose, chant this mantra:

tulasy amta-janm€si sad€ tvaˆ keava-priy€ /� �keav€rthaˆ cinomi tv€ˆ varad€ bhava obhane //� �

"O Tulasi devi, your birth is from nectar, and you are always dear to Lord Kesava. It is for Lord Kesava that I collect your leaves. O beautiful Tulasi, please grant us this boon to serve the Lord."

Take only older leaves near the stem, preferably those that she is ready to release with only a slight tug. Never pull many leaves off a small plant, or she will suffer. Always remember that any leaves are offerable, even dry, brown leaves, or, in emergencies, pieces of her wood. Gaudiya Vaisnavas refrain from clipping on Dvadasi day (the day after Ekadasi, or the 12th day after a new or full moon), therefore clip extra on Ekadasi day.

After picking, please chant:

cayanodbhava-duƒkhaˆ ca yad dhdi tava vartate /�tat kamasva jagan-m€tar vnd€-devi namo 'stu te //� �

"O Tulasi devi, I offer my respectful obeisances unto you. Kindly forgive me if I have caused you pain by picking your leaves and manjaris, O mother of the universe."

Keep the leaves in a bowl of fresh water in the refrigerator, or store them in plastic, air tight containers (Tupperware) also in the refrigerator. If the latter is used, the leaves should be washed and patted dry before being placed in the box, as excess moisture will cause them to rot quickly.

To clip manjaris, chant the mantras before and after you clip. Clip the stalk below the first set of leaves at the base of the manjari or manjari unit (these may be small leaves) but as close as you can to the second set of leaves. With practice it will

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be easy to tell if the buds at the base of the manjari will themselves be manjaris and hence a manjari unit is forming, or will be branches. If the buds will be manjaris, they will look like little pyramids with hashed lines on them; if branches, they will look like tiny leaves. If she has begun to branch, let her do so, and clip right above the tiny branches. It is important when you clip that you do not leave a little twig on her as she will have to expend energy to abort this now useless tissue. Storing manjaris in large Tupperware containers where they can "breathe" but not dry out is best, and they will keep for several days.

Whether one should use scissors to clip manjaris is slightly controversial. In India, traditionally scissors are not allowed, instead, the manjaris are broken off with the fingers of the right hand. Fingernails can never be used. However, this technique requires a great deal of practice, and most Westerners have difficulty achieving a "clean break". For this reason, very sharp, small scissors used exclusively for Tulasi are recommended so as to cause her the least amount of pain. But, please, never use a needle to pierce Tulasi to make a garland. Knot or warp the thread around the manjaris instead.

Benefits of Worshipping Tulasi Devi

"Karttikeya once asked his father, Lord Siva: 'My dear father, which tree or plant is capable of giving love of God?'

"Lord Siva replied, 'My dear son, of all trees and plants, Tulasi Devi is the topmost; She is all auspicious, the fulfiller of all desires, completely pure, most dear to Lord Krsna, and the topmost devotee. Long ago, Lord Krsna for the welfare of all conditioned souls brought Vrnda-devi in Her form of a plant (Tulasi) and planted Her in the material world. Tulasi is the essence of all devotional activities. Without Tulasi Leaves, Lord Krsna does not like to accept flowers, foodstuffs, sandalwood paste; in fact, anything without Tulasi-leaves is not looked upon by Lord Krsna. One who worships Lord Krsna daily with Tulasi leaves attains the result of all kind of austerities, charities, and fire sacrifices. In fact, he does not have any other duties to perform, and he has realized the essence of all scriptures. Just as the Ganges River is purifying all who bathe in her, so Tulasi Devi is purifying the three worlds. It is not possible tp describe the full benefit of offering Tulasi Manjaris (flowers) to Lord Krsna. Lord Krsna, along with all the other demigods, lives wherever there is Tulasi Devi. For this reason, one should plant Tulasi Devi at one's home and offer worship daily. One who sits near Tulasi Devi and chants or recites prayers will attain the results much faster." [Gita Mahatmya and Tulasidevi Mahatmya of Padma Purana, Padmalocan das, Ratan Press, Vrndavana, 1990]

Srila Prabhupada wrote about Tulasi-devi in a letter to Radhavallabha dasa, January 6, 1972:

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"Tulasi-devi is a pure devotee of Krsna, and she should be treated with the same respect given to all Krsna's pure devotees. Simply by worshipping her faithfully, a devotee can get himself free from all material miseries. In The Nectar of Devotion I have given two verses from the Skanda Purana, one of which is, 'Tulasi is auspicious in all respects. Simply by seeing, simply by touching, simply by remembering, simlpy by praying, simply by bowing before, simply by hearing about, or simply by sowing the tree, there is always auspiciousness. Anyone who comes in touch with the Tulasi tree in the above-mentioned ways lives eternally in the Vaikuntha world.'"So from this verse we can understand how pure is the service which Tulasi offers to Sri Krsna. So we should always endeavor after becoming the servant of Tulasi-devi... Tulasi-devi never goes back to Godhead, she is always with Godhead. She is a pure devotee and thus she has appeared on this planet to render service to Krsna by being offered in all temples throughout the world by being offered up to the lotus feet of Krsna."

All parts of Tulasi Devi, her leaves, her flowers, her wood, her shade, and even the soil around her roots are auspicious and worshipable.Because of this, devotees of Lord Krsna wear necklaces of Tulasi wood at all times, signifying their devotion to Lord Krsna and also deriving great benefit for themselves.

Srimati Tulasi Devi is an expansion of Srimati Vrnda-devi, the Vrndavan gopi in charge of arranging the details of Radha and Krsna's lila. A beautiful synopsis of Vrnda-devi's role is given by Govinda dasi:

"Vrnda Devi is in charge of the Vrndavana-lila — the pastimes of Radha and Krsna. She decides which flowers will bloom, which birds will sing, which songs will be sung, which breezes will blow, which food will be served, which games will be played, which musical instruments will be played.

Lord Krsna and Srimati Radharani have given Vrnda Devi her role as queen of Vrndavana. Vrnda-devi may be likened to a grand director or choreographer of the Vrndavana lila, and her parrots are her communication service. She always stays in Vrndavana, absorbed in love for Radha and Krsna. Her great yearning is to expertly arrange Their meeting, and by doing this she feels the greatest joy." [Tulasi-devi, Beloved of Krsna, by Govinda dasi, Back to Godhead, Jan/Feb 1993.]

By her mercy, Vrnda-devi has appeared in this material world as the plant Tulasi Devi, giving us a chance to serve her and to beg her to bestow upon us her greatest boon — love of Lord Krsna and the privilege of devotional service to Him.

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Formal Worship of Srimati Tulasi Devi

Srila Prabhupada has outlined a formal worship program for Tulasi Devi that is standard at all ISKCON temples. This worship begins with the offering of obeisances to Tulasi and the chanting of the tulasi-pranama mantra three times:

vnd€yai tulas…-devyai priy€yai keavasya ca /� �kŠa-bhakti-prade devi satyavatyai namo namaƒ //��

"I offer my repeated obeisances unto Vrnda, Srimati Tulasi Devi, who is very dear to Lord Kesava [Krsna]. O goddess, you bestow devotional service to Krsna and possess the highest truth."

An artik of incense, ghee lamp, and flowers is then performed while the following prayer is sung:

Sri Tulasi Kirtana

namo namaƒ tulas… kŠa-preyas…��r€dh€-kŠa-sev€ p€bo ei abhil€…��

ye tom€ra araŠa loy, tara v€ñch€ p™rŠa hoy�kp€ kori' koro t€re vnd€vana-v€si� �

mora ei abhil€, vil€s kuñje dio v€s�nayane heribo sad€ jugala-r™pa-r€i�

ei nivedana dhara, sakh…r anugata korosev€-adhik€ra diye koro nija d€s…

d…na kŠa-d€se koy, ei yena mora hoy� �r…-r€dh€-govinda-preme sad€ yena bh€si�

"O Tulasi, beloved of Krsna, I bow before you again and again. My desire is to obtain the service of Sri Sri Radha-Krsna.

"Whoever takes shelter of you has his wishes fulfilled. Bestowing your mercy on him, you make him a resident of Vrndavana.

"My desire is that you will also grant me a residence in the pleasure groves of Sri Vrndavana-dhama. Thus, within my vision I will always behold the beautiful pastimes of Radha and Krsna.

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"I beg you to make me a follower of the cowherd damsels of Vraja. Please give me the privilege of devotional service and make me your own maidservant.

"This very fallen and lowly servant of Krsna prays, "May I always swim in the love of Sri Sri Radha and Govinda.""

Tulasi is then circumambulated in a clockwise direction while the pradaksina mantra is chanted:

y€ni k€ni ca p€p€ni brahma-haty€dik€ni ca /t€ni t€ni praŠayanti pradakiŠaƒ pade pade //� �

"By the circumambulation of Srimati Tulasi Devi all the sins one may have committed are destroyed at every step, even the sin of killing a brahmana."

Each devotee then waters Tulasi with three drops of water, offers her obeisances again, and repeats her pranama mantra.

Srila Prabhupada has mentioned in his correspondence (SPL 70-11-30, 71-4-11) that a ghee lamp should be offered to Tulasi-devi in the evening, thus arati should again be offered to her at this time.

The Arcana-Paddhati [Arcana-Paddhati, by Jayatirtha dasa Adhikari, ed. Bhaktivedanta Book Trust, 1978.] outlines a program of worship for the Tulasi pujari to perform after the worship of the other Deities is completed:

1. First one should recite the prayer:

nirmit€ tvaˆ pur€ devair arcit€ tvaˆ sur€suraiƒ /tulas… hara me 'vidy€ˆ p™j€ˆ ghŠa namo 'stu te //�

"O Srimati Tulasi Devi, you were previously created by the demigods and worshiped by both them and the demons. O Srimati Tulasi Devi, kindly take away my ignorance and accept my worship. I offer you my humble obeisances again and again."

2. Then, while sprinkling water on Tulasi Devi, one should chant the following mantra:

oˆ govinda-vallabh€ˆ dev…ˆ bhakta-caitanya-k€riŠ…m /sn€pay€mi jagad-dh€tr…ˆ kŠa-bhakti-prad€yin…m //� �

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"I am bathing Goddess Tulasi Devi, who is very dear to Govinda and who brings life to all the devotees. She is the mother of the universe, and the bestower of devotion to Lord Krsna."

3. Then, taking some arghya mixture from an arghya-patra with a kusi and pouring some on her soil, one should chant:

riyaƒ riye riy€v€se nityaˆ r…dharaˆ sat-kte /� � � � �bhakty€ dattaˆ may€ devi arghyaˆ ghŠa namo 'stu te //�

"O goddess Tulasi, I offer my obeisances unto you, who are theshelter and residence of all beauty and opulence. You are even worshiped bythe Supreme Lord. O Tulasi, please accept this arghya water which is offeredby me with devotion."

4. Then one should chant the following:

a) One should offer a flower with sandalwood pulp to Tulasi with the mantra: idaˆ sagandha-pupam, oˆ tulasyai namaƒ.

b) One should offer the bath water of Sri Krsna to Tulasi with the mantra: idaˆ r…-kŠa-caraŠ€mtam, oˆ tulasyai namaƒ.�

c) One should offer garlands and flowers offered to the Lord with the mantras: idaˆ mah€-pras€da-nirm€ly€dikaˆ sarvam, oˆ tulasyai namaƒ.

d) One should offer acamana to Tulasi with the mantra: idam €caman…yam, oˆ tulasyai namaƒ.

5. Then one should chant:

mah€-pras€da-janan… sarva-saubh€gya-vardhin… /€dhi-vy€dhi-hare nityaˆ tulasi tvaˆ namo 'stu te //

"O Tulasi Devi, I offer my repeated obeisances unto you. You are the mother of maha-prasada, the increaser of the good fortune of all, and you take away all diseases and mental anxieties."

6. One should then offer obeisances to her while reciting her pranama mantra:

vnd€yai tulas…-devyai priy€yai keavasya ca /� �kŠa-bhakti-prade devi satyavatyai namo namaƒ //��

A special Tulasi-Stava to be chanted on Dvadasi (the 12th day after the full or new moon) is given in the Tulasi-devi Mahatmya of the Padma Purana.

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munayaƒ siddha-gandharv€ƒ p€t€le n€ga-r€˜ svayam /prabhavaˆ tava devei g€yanti sura-sattam€ƒ // 1 //�

na te prabhavaˆ j€nanti devat€ƒ keav€dte /� �guŠ€n€ˆ parim€Šaˆ tu kalpa-ko˜…u tair api // 2 //�

kŠ€nand€t samudbh™t€ k…roda-mathanodyame /�� uttam€‰ge pur€ yena tulas… viŠun€ dht€ // 3 //� �

pr€pyait€ni tvay€ devi viŠor a‰g€ni sarvaaƒ /� �pavitrat€ tvay€ pr€pt€ tulasi tv€ˆ nam€my aham // 4 //

tvad-a‰ga-sambhavaiƒ patraiƒ p™jay€mi yath€ harim /tath€ kuruva me vighnaˆ yato y€mi par€ gatim // 5 //�

ropit€ gomat…-t…re svayaˆ kŠena p€lit€ /��jagad-dhit€ya tulas… gop…n€ˆ hita-hetave // 6 //

vnd€vane vic€rit€ sevit€ viŠun€ svayam /� �gokulasya vivddhy-arthaˆ kaˆsasya nidhan€ya ca // 7 //�

vasi˜ha-vacan€t p™rvaˆ r€meŠa saray™-ta˜e /�r€kas€n€ˆ vadh€rth€ya ropit€ tvaˆ jagat-priye /�ropit€ tapaso vddhyai tulasi tv€ˆ nam€my aham // 8 //�

viyoge r€ghavendrasya dhy€tv€ tv€ˆ janak€tmaj€aoka-vana-madhye tu priyena saha saˆgat€ // 9 //�

a‰kar€rth€ pur€ devi p€rvaty€ tvaˆ him€laye /�ropit€ sevit€ siddhyai tulasi tv€ˆ nam€my aham // 10 //

dharm€raŠye gay€y€ˆ ca sevit€ pitbhiƒ svayam /�sevit€ tulas… puŠy€ €tmano hitam icchat€ // 11 //

ropit€ r€macandreŠa sevit€ lakmaŠena ca /�s…tay€ p€lit€ bhakty€ tulas… daŠake vane // 12 //�

trailokya-vy€pin… ga‰g€ yath€ €streu g…yate /� �tathaiva tulas… dev… dyate sa-car€care // 13 //� �

yamukhe ca vasat€ kapi-r€jena sevit€ /��tulas… bali-n€€ya t€r€-sa‰gama-hetave // 14 //�

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praŠ€mya tulas…ˆ dev…ˆ s€garotkramaŠaˆ ktam /�kta-k€ryaƒ prah˜a ca hanum€n punar €gataƒ // 15 //� ��

tulas…-grahaŠaˆ ktv€ vimukto yati-p€takaiƒ /�atha v€ muni-€rd™la brahma-haty€ˆ vyapohati // 16 //�

tulas…-patra-galitaˆ yas toyaˆ iras€ vahet /�ga‰g€-sn€nam av€pnoti daa-dhenu-phala-pradam // 17 //�

pras…da devi devei pras…da hari-vallabhe /�k…roda-mathanodbh™te tulasi tv€ˆ nam€my aham // 18 //�

dv€day€ˆ j€gare r€trau yaƒ pa˜het tulas…-stavam /�dv€triˆad-apar€dh€ˆ ca kamate tasya keavaƒ // 19 //� � � �

One who worships Tulasi Devi on the Dvadasi (12th day) and chants this Tulasi-stava destroys all 32 kinds of sinful reactions. Lord Krsna becomes very happy with that person.

Tulasi-stava (translated by Kusakratha Dasa, Krsna Institute)

1. O goddess, the munis, siddhas, gandharvas, the naga kings in Patala, and the great demigods sing your glories.

2. Even though they have counted many millions of your virtues, the demigods, except for Lord Kesava, do not understand the full extent of your powers and glories.

3. Born from Lord Krsna's bliss as He churned the milk ocean, Tulasi was carried by Lord Visnu on His head.

4. O Tulasi, I offer obeisances to you. When you are placed on Lord Visnu's limbs, you purify everyone.

5. As with your leaves I worship Lord Hari, please remove the obstacles before me. I take shelter of you.

6. To bring auspiciousness to the world and to benefit the gopis, Lord Krsna planted you and cared for you on the shore of the Gomati River.

7. To bring opulence to Gokula and to become able to kill Kamsa, Lord Visnu served you in Vrndavana.

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8. O you who are dear to the worlds, in order to become able to kill the raksasas, by Vasistha's order, Lord Rama planted you on the shore of the Sarayu Planting you is like performing great austerities. To you, O Tulasi, I offer my respectful obeisances.

9. When in the grove of asoka trees Sita-devi was separated from Lord Rama, she meditated on you and for this reason she attained the company of her beloved.

10. To attain Lord Siva, Parvati planted you, O goddess, in the Himalayas. To you, O Tulasi, I offer my respectful obeisances.

11. You are served by the pitas in the Dharmaranya forest of Gaya. You, O sacred Tulasi, are served by they who desire auspiciousness.

12. O Tulasi, you were planted by Lord Rama, served by Laksmana, and with great devotion protected by Sita-devi in the Dandaka forest.

13. As the Ganges, which flows through the three worlds, is glorified in the sastras, so Tulasi Devi is seen by the moving and unmoving creatures.

14. To meet Tara and kill Vali the king of monkeys served you Tulasi, in Rsyamukha.

15. Bowing down to Tulasi Devi, Hanuman crossed the ocean, and, happy and his mission accomplished, returned home again.

16. By touching Tulasi, one becomes free of all sins. O tiger of sages, in this way, one becomes free of the sin of killing a brahmana.

17. If one hold on his head the water that has washed a Tulasi leaf, he attains the result of bathing in the Ganges or the result of giving ten cows in charity.

18. O goddess, O queen of the demigods, please be kind! O beloved of Lord Hari, please be kind! O Tulasi born from the churning of the milk ocean, I offer my respectful obeisances to you.

19. Lord Kesava forgives 32 offenses for one who, staying awake on Dvadasi night, recites this prayer to Tulasi.

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Finally, a very nice meditation on Tulasi is in reciting her eight names and their meanings. It is said that Lord Krsna Himself worships Tulasi with her eight names on Tulasi's Appearance Day on the full moon day in the month of Kartik.

Asta-Nama-Stava — The Eight Names of Tulasi Devi

Vnd€van…, Vnd€, Vivap™jit€, Pupas€ra, Nandin…, KŠa-j…van…,� � � � � � Viva-p€van…, Tulas….�

Vnd€van… � — one who first manifested in and never leaves Vrndavana.Vnd€ � — the goddess of all plants and trees.Vivap™jit€ � — one who the whole world worships.Pupas€ra � — the topmost of all flowers, without whom Krsna does not like to look upon other flowers.Nandin… — she gives happiness to everyone.KŠa-j…van… �� — the life and soul of Lord Krsna.Viva-p€van… � — one who purifies the whole world.Tulas… — one who has no comparison.

Srimati Tulasi Devi ki jaya!

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· ®RŸ V¬NDšDEVY-A±µAKA ·

"Eight Prayers Glorifying ®r…mat… Vnd€ Dev…" by Vivan€tha� � Cakravart… µh€kura

(Translation by B€b€ M€dhava D€sa)

1. g€‰geya-c€mpeya-taid-vinind…-rociƒ-prav€ha-snapit€tma-�vnde /�

bandh™ka-bandhu-dyuti-divya-v€so vnde namas te �caraŠ€ravindam // 1 //

"O Vnd€ Dev…, I offer my respectful obeisances to your lotus feet.� You are bathed in your own splendor, which defeats the effulgence of lightning and the golden campaka flower. The luster of your transcendental garments is the friend of the leandhilia flower."

2. bimb€dharoditvara-manda-h€sya- n€s€gra-mukta-dyuti-d…pit€sye /

vicitra-ratn€bharaŠa-riy€dhye � vnde namas te �caraŠ€ravindam // 2 //

"O Vnd€ Dev…, I offer my respectful obeisances to your lotus feet.� Your face is illuminated by the splendor of the pearl decorating the tip of your nose, and by the extraordinary gentle smile on the two

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bimba fruits which are your lips. You are enriched by the beauty of the amazing and colorful jewels and ornaments you wear."

3. samasta-vaikuŠ˜ha-iromaŠau r…-� � kŠasya vnd€vana-�� dhanya-dh€mni /

datt€dhik€re vabh€nu-putry€ �� vnde namas te �caraŠ€ravindam // 3 //

"O Vnd€ Dev…, I offer my respectful obeisances to your lotus feet.� ®r…mat… R€dh€r€Š…, the daughter of King Vabh€nu, has made�� you the ruling monarch of Lord KŠa's opulent and auspicious abode�� of Vrndavana, which is the crest jewel of all the VaikuŠ˜ha planets."

4. tvad-€jñay€ pallava-pupa-bh‰ga-� � mg€dibhir �m€dhava-keli-kuñj€ƒ /

madhv-€dibhir bh€nti vibh™yam€Š€ � vnde �namas te caraŠ€ravindam // 4 //

"O Vnd€ Dev…, I offer my respectful obeisances to your lotus feet.� Because of your order, the groves where Lord M€dhava performs His pastimes appear very splendid, decorated with blossoming flowers, bumblebees, deer, and other auspicious animals, flowers, and birds."

5. tvad…ya-d™tyena nikuñja-y™nor atyutkayoƒ keli-vil€sa-siddhiƒ /

tvat-saubhagaˆ kena nirucyataˆ tad vnde �namas te caraŠ€ravindam // 5 //

"O Vnd€ Dev…, I offer my respectful obeisances to your lotus feet.� Who can describe your good fortune? You were the messenger who brought about the perfection of the amorous pastimes of R€dh€ and KŠa, the youthful couple, who enthusiastically sport in the�� groves of Vnd€vana."�

6. r€s€bhil€so vasati ca vnd€-� � vane tvad-…€‰ghri-�saroja-sev€ /

labhy€ ca puˆs€ˆ kpay€ tavaiva � vnde namas te �caraŠ€ravindam // 6 //

"O Vnd€ Dev…, I offer my respectful obeisances to your lotus feet.� The living entities who attain the service of the lotus feet of your

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Lord reside in Vnd€vana. And the desire to understand the Lord's� amazing pastimes of the r€sa dance is only by your mercy."

7. tvaˆ k…rtyase s€tvata-tantra-vidbhir l…l€bhidh€n€ kila kŠa-aktiƒ /��

tavaiva m™rtis tulas… n-loke � vnde namas te �caraŠ€ravindam // 7 //

"O Vnd€ Dev…, I offer my respectful obeisances to your lotus feet.� Those who have studied the S€tvata-tantra glorify you. You are Lord KŠa's potency for performing pastimes, and you are known as� � Tulas… Dev… in the human society."

8. bhakty€ vih…n€ apar€dha-lakaiƒ � kipt€ ca k€m€di-� �tara‰ga-madhye /

kp€mayi tv€ˆ araŠaˆ prapann€ � � vnde namas te �caraŠ€ravindam // 8 //

"O Vnd€ Dev…, I offer my respectful obeisances to your lotus feet.� Those who are devoid of devotion to Lord Hari, and who are thrown by their offenses into the waves of lust and other inauspicious qualities, may take shelter of you."

9. vnd€˜akaˆ yaƒ Šuy€t pa˜hed v€ � � �� vnd€van€dh…a-� �pad€bja-bh‰gaƒ /�

sa pr€pya vnd€vana-nitya-v€saˆ � tat-prema-sev€ˆ labhate kt€rthaƒ // 9 //�

"O Vnd€ Dev…, I offer my respectful obeisances to your lotus feet.� Let a person who becomes like a bumblebee at the lotus feet of R€dh€-KŠa, and who reads or hears these eight verses describing� � the glories of Vnd€ Dev…, eternally reside at Goloka Vnd€vana. He� � attains devotional service in pure love of Godhead, and all his spiritual aspirations become fulfilled."

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Art of Care for Tulasi Devi

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Transcript of Art of Care for Tulasi Devi