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N. 33/20 File Dress Gianfranco Ferré Ready-to-wear Fall-Winter 1994-95 GIANFRANCO FERRE/MADE IN ITALY, 924/52 FASHION SHOW/ Mod. 5002/ Des. 781 Train side pinned on shoulders: 285 cm Gray cashmere jersey (Dondi Jersey, Fossoli) The dress is made from a single trapezoidal cut of jersey. A slim full-length tunic with sort of mantle, it takes shape by folding over the jersey and sewing the fabric on left side and shoulders. The dress has long round sleeves, high neck, cutout in back, plus two zip fastenings (one down the side seam, the other on the collar and on the left shoulder where a whalebone reinforces it). At the knees the tunic opens in a slit, making it possibile to fold the fabric in an upward direction and so drape on the back, where a portion of the hem is sewn onto the shoulders. This creates a mantle effect, partially fixed in place although mostly free to fall from the left shoulder down to the floor where it forms a train. Here the inspiration comes most likely from a tight evening dress that Elsa Schiaparelli sent down the runway in 1937. While the Parisian couturier made the fourreau with train from a heavy lustrous satin in the color rose sensuel, Ferré opts for jersey – a much suppler material enabling the designer to fold the fabric softly, alternate between snug fit and rich drape without the use of cuts. The choice of gray jersey is, rather, probably a reflection of the deluxe minimalist pauperism taking hold at the time, with the (temporary) demise of the fashion palette and the emergence of cashmere as sole mark of luxury and distinction. 02/09/2009 42 (10) Designe Collection Season Year Label Inventory Materials Working processe Description Remarks Bibliography Exhibitions Present location Acquisition Enrica Morini Author of file Date of file Size Sources Picture Object 118 Look Pg. # 1 Printed on 11-16-2020 © Fondazione Gianfranco Ferré - All rights reserved
Transcript of Archivio Fondazione Ferré (Server)
N. 33/20File
Dress
Gianfranco Ferré
Ready-to-wear
Fall-Winter
1994-95
GIANFRANCO FERRE/MADE IN ITALY,924/52 FASHION SHOW/ Mod. 5002/ Des.781
Train side pinned on shoulders: 285 cm
Gray cashmere jersey (Dondi Jersey, Fossoli)
The dress is made from a single trapezoidal cut of jersey. A slim full-length tunic with sort of mantle, it takes shape byfolding over the jersey and sewing the fabric on left side and shoulders. The dress has long round sleeves, high neck, cutoutin back, plus two zip fastenings (one down the side seam, the other on the collar and on the left shoulder where a whalebonereinforces it). At the knees the tunic opens in a slit, making it possibile to fold the fabric in an upward direction and so drapeon the back, where a portion of the hem is sewn onto the shoulders. This creates a mantle effect, partially fixed in placealthough mostly free to fall from the left shoulder down to the floor where it forms a train.
Here the inspiration comes most likely from a tight evening dress that Elsa Schiaparelli sent down the runway in 1937. Whilethe Parisian couturier made the fourreau with train from a heavy lustrous satin in the color rose sensuel, Ferré opts for jersey– a much suppler material enabling the designer to fold the fabric softly, alternate between snug fit and rich drape withoutthe use of cuts.The choice of gray jersey is, rather, probably a reflection of the deluxe minimalist pauperism taking hold at the time, with the(temporary) demise of the fashion palette and the emergence of cashmere as sole mark of luxury and distinction.
02/09/2009
42 (10)
Designer
Collection
Season
Year
Label
Inventory
Materials
Working processes
Description
Remarks
Bibliography
Exhibitions
Present location
AcquisitionEnrica Morini
Author of file
Date of file
Size
Sources
Picture Object
118
Look
Pg. # 1Printed on 11-16-2020 © Fondazione Gianfranco Ferré - All rights reserved
N. 33/20File
Good
Condition
Pg. # 2Printed on 11-16-2020 © Fondazione Gianfranco Ferré - All rights reserved
N. 33/20File
Pg. # 3Printed on 11-16-2020 © Fondazione Gianfranco Ferré - All rights reserved
N. 33/20File
Runway shots
FOTO DI SFILATA(MARZO 1994)
FOTO DI SFILATA(MARZO 1994)
Page # 4Printed on 11-16-2020 © Fondazione Gianfranco Ferré - All rights reserved
N. 33/20File
Ad image
GFF - ADVERTISING - A/I - 1994-95 - PRÊT-À-PORTER - DONNA - STAMPAB-N
(1994)
Editorial image
VOGUE - D(SETTEMBRE 1994)
Page # 5Printed on 11-16-2020 © Fondazione Gianfranco Ferré - All rights reserved
