Apparel production and sourcong
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Transcript of Apparel production and sourcong
![Page 1: Apparel production and sourcong](https://reader035.fdocuments.us/reader035/viewer/2022081507/554cb2d3b4c905335b8b4cd8/html5/thumbnails/1.jpg)
Chapter 10
Apparel Production and Global Sourcing
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Fashion From Concept to Consumer, 8/e © 2005 Pearson Education, Inc.Gini Frings Upper Saddle River, New Jersey 07458
Production Planning
• Based on orders, a manufacturer decides on how many garments of each style to produce.
• Cut to order is the safest method, where you cut and produce only against orders.
• Cut to stock involves greater risk, where cutting is based on estimates of projected sales.
• Cut to stock is necessary for basics to enable production to be spread out over time.
• This allows work on items with high projected sales during slack months and when they have long lead times.
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Fashion From Concept to Consumer, 8/e © 2005 Pearson Education, Inc.Gini Frings Upper Saddle River, New Jersey 07458
Global Sourcing
• Manufacturing is a global phenomenon, with the majority of manufacturers no longer producing apparel in their own factories.
• Contractors, or independent producers does sewing, and/or cutting and patternmaking, in their own factories.
• Contractors relieve manufacturers from:– Paying wages during slack periods
– Investing in plant and machinery
– Lack of capacity during peak times
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Fashion From Concept to Consumer, 8/e © 2005 Pearson Education, Inc.Gini Frings Upper Saddle River, New Jersey 07458
Global Sourcing
• Extra movement of goods, communication issues and timing issues arise from remote production.
• Manufacturers seek cheap labor by going to Asia, Mexico, the Caribbean Basin and Eastern Europe.
• There are three basic methods of offshore production:
– Production package
– Cut, Make, and Trim (CMT)
– Offshore Assembly (807)
• Industry concerns about overseas production include disintegration of domestic production base and use of sweatshops overseas replacing domestic production.
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Fashion From Concept to Consumer, 8/e © 2005 Pearson Education, Inc.Gini Frings Upper Saddle River, New Jersey 07458
Costing
• Production costs are mutually determined by the manufacturer and contractor.
• Elements include:– Materials– Trimmings– Production patternmaking, garding and marking– Spreading and cutting– Assembly– Finishing– Freight– Duty and quota
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Fashion From Concept to Consumer, 8/e © 2005 Pearson Education, Inc.Gini Frings Upper Saddle River, New Jersey 07458
Purchasing of Piece Goods
• Ordering the materials to produce garments may be done by the manufacturer or overseas contractor.
• Both environmental concerns and the volume of the piece goods order effect the cost.
• Piece goods buyers must also consider:– The amount that may be required for reorders
– Trimmings
– Fabric quality and dye lot matching
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Fashion From Concept to Consumer, 8/e © 2005 Pearson Education, Inc.Gini Frings Upper Saddle River, New Jersey 07458
Patternmaking
• Accurate patternmaking is crucial for successful apparel production.
• Most large manufacturers make patterns on a computer using Computer Aided Design, or CAD.
• Grading is the method to increase or decrease the sample size production pattern to make a complete size range.
• Markers are the cutting guide on a sheet of lightweight paper the same width as the fabric.
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Fashion From Concept to Consumer, 8/e © 2005 Pearson Education, Inc.Gini Frings Upper Saddle River, New Jersey 07458
Production Scheduling
• Contractors schedule production and garment assembly in time to met shipping dates.
• The production schedule, or issue plan is a reverse timetable usually covering six months.
• The first date is a shipping date that meets the retailers order requirements.
• Plant capacity must be considered in planning the production schedule.
• Computerized inventory control has made planning more accurate.
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Fashion From Concept to Consumer, 8/e © 2005 Pearson Education, Inc.Gini Frings Upper Saddle River, New Jersey 07458
Spreading and Cutting Procedures
• After the issue plan, a cutting order tells what to cut, what fabrics to use and how to cut.
• Computer guided spreaders provide distortion free garment spreading at high speeds to enable cutting.
• Markers are put on top of fabric and cutting is done by hand or computer via laser beam or water.
• Bundling is the process of sorting out cut pieces and organizing them for assembly.
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Fashion From Concept to Consumer, 8/e © 2005 Pearson Education, Inc.Gini Frings Upper Saddle River, New Jersey 07458
Garment Assembly
• Garment assembly, or operations, are based on operation sheets, where all necessary operations are listed in sequence.
• Sewing operations must be performed in sequence.• The three methods of construction are:
– Progressive bundling
– Whole garment system
– Modular manufacturing
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Fashion From Concept to Consumer, 8/e © 2005 Pearson Education, Inc.Gini Frings Upper Saddle River, New Jersey 07458
Garment Assembly
• Computer technology is used in garment assembly:– Computer Aided Manufacturing (CAM)– Unit Production Systems (UPS)– Computer simulation– Flexible manufacturing
• Three main types of power sewing machines are used in traditional factories:– Lock stitch– Chain stitch– Overlock or serging
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Fashion From Concept to Consumer, 8/e © 2005 Pearson Education, Inc.Gini Frings Upper Saddle River, New Jersey 07458
Garment Assembly
• While programmable sewing machines are very successful in surging or seaming, automated sewing remains difficult.
• Finishing is the handwork done inside collars and lapels to form and hold shape.
• The high cost of skilled labor has driven this tailoring to fusing or machine basting.
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Fashion From Concept to Consumer, 8/e © 2005 Pearson Education, Inc.Gini Frings Upper Saddle River, New Jersey 07458
Production of Men’s Suits
• Men’s clothing was divided into firms that produce tailored goods or firms that produce furnishings.
• Men’s suits production can have over 200 steps.
• Modern technology introduced automation into an industry traditionally handwork oriented.
• Production steps in mass produced suits are:
– Fuse or hand stitch interfacings, jump baste chest pieces and bridal tape on lapel crease
– Press, line and stitch pockets
– Join main pieces together
– Set in sleeves and linings and sew buttons
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Fashion From Concept to Consumer, 8/e © 2005 Pearson Education, Inc.Gini Frings Upper Saddle River, New Jersey 07458
Mass Customization and Production of Knitwear
• Body scanning technology developed by Textile/Clothing Technology Corporation (TC3) uses white light to capture three dimensional body images.
• These measurements are converted and sent to a laser that cuts cloth to create a custom fitting garment.
• The two commercial methods of knitwear production are:– Cut and sew– Full fashioned
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Fashion From Concept to Consumer, 8/e © 2005 Pearson Education, Inc.Gini Frings Upper Saddle River, New Jersey 07458
The Final Steps of Garment Production
• Dyeing ensures perfect color match between garments.
• Washing is used in jeanswear to finish garments.
• Pressing vastly improves the look of garments.
• Quality control is the standardization of production using specifications as guides.
• Labels showing a variety of information are sewn in.
• Many retailers require “floor ready” standards:
– Preticketing garments with bar coded price tags
– Hang merchandise on Voluntary Industry Communications Standards (VICS) hangers
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Fashion From Concept to Consumer, 8/e © 2005 Pearson Education, Inc.Gini Frings Upper Saddle River, New Jersey 07458
Shipping from Global Contractor to Manufacturer’s Distribution Center
• Another choice is the method of shipping from manufacturer to retailer
• Three main methods are used:– Free on Board (FOB) where contractors deliver goods to the
ship or plane in the country where it is made. Manufacturers arrange and pay for transport and duty.
– Landed, Duty Paid (LDP) where contractors ship to the distribution center and pay duty.
– Cost, Insurance, Freight (CIF), pays for insurance and freight to final destination.
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Fashion From Concept to Consumer, 8/e © 2005 Pearson Education, Inc.Gini Frings Upper Saddle River, New Jersey 07458
Shipping from Global Contractor to Manufacturer’s Distribution Center
• Finished goods take approximately 4 to 35 days on water via ship and 3 to 10 days via airplane.
• They are delivered to either the manufacturer’s distribution center for direct delivery to retail stores, or to the retailer’s distribution center for distribution to the retailer’s stores.
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Fashion From Concept to Consumer, 8/e © 2005 Pearson Education, Inc.Gini Frings Upper Saddle River, New Jersey 07458
Filling Orders and Shipping to Retailers
• Garments are checked for quality, divided into groups according to style, color and size and put into stock.
• Standardized purchase orders make pulling orders to fill easier, faster and more efficient.
• Orders transmitted via Electronic Data Interchange (EDI) are automatically translated in Advanced Shipping Notices (ASN’s) and invoices.
• ASN’s are sent to stores so they know what to expect.
• Bar-coded boxes are prepared for shipment, with packing slips and addresses, allowing for on time delivery and quick checking at the destination.