Apparel- dyeing and finish guidelines/media/Technical... · 2010-12-06 · 1 g/l Levegal DLP...
Transcript of Apparel- dyeing and finish guidelines/media/Technical... · 2010-12-06 · 1 g/l Levegal DLP...
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Ingeo™ Fibre Apparel Product Guidelines
Dyeing and Finishing
Contents:1. Introduction to Ingeo™ fibre2. General considerations for dye and finish3. Dye selection 4. Shades and washing fastness5. Dye cycles
- 100% Ingeo™ fibre- Ingeo™ fibre / cotton- Ingeo™ fibre / wool- Package dye
6. Process routes7. Atmospheric dyeing
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Apparel Product Guidelines
1. Introduction to Ingeo™ fibres
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Ingeo™ fibre
• The only synthetic fibre commercially available in bulk quantities, that is made entirely from annually renewable raw materials - not oil
Polymer
Fermentation
Lactic Acid
+H20
Compost
Corn
Garments
+ sunshine
Ingeo™ Fibre
SUSTAINABILITY
Not only from nature - but also back to nature
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Ingeo™ fibre
From nature, and back to nature - plus performance:
Excellent wicking propertiesMoisture management
Low odor retention
Does not support bacterial growthHypoallergenic
Rapid soil releaseQuick dryingExcellent after wash appearance
And all supported by detailed technical bulletins ……
⇒ Comfort
⇒ Fresh
⇒ Easy care
⇒ No skin irritation
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Ingeo™ fibre
370904Ingeo™ fibre fabric UV resistance
120904Compostability
Multi product
110804Wipes commercial production information
390904Wipes regularity technical bulletin (toxicology)
380904Moisture transport in Ingeo™ fibre non woven fabrics
Non woven
110104Furnishing flammability characteristics
320904Pillow performance
130904Duvet / comforter performance
200904Fibre fill compression testing
Home textiles
180904Fibre & fabric properties
50904Washing and dry cleaning performance
260904Hohenstein Institute testing
290904Odour release
Apparel
Bulletin number
Subject
These and more available on www.ingeofibers.com
…… selected technical bulletins
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Apparel Product Guidelines
2. Dyeing - general considerations
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General considerations:1) Lower melt point (170°C)
• Safe, effective, heat setting – 130°C for 30sec• No high temperature heat set for blends with:
Nylon, PETElastane (~3% with no heat set OK)
Ingeo™ fibre dyeing and finishing
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General considerations:2) Sensitivity to high temperature and alkali conditions:
• Safe, effective dyeing - 110°C for up to 30min• Safe, effective processes developed:
ScourReduction clearReactive dyeCotton pre bleachetc
Ingeo™ Fabric Dyeing and FinishingIngeo™ Fabric Dyeing and Finishing
Ingeo™ fibre dyeing and finishing
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General considerations:3) disperse dyes behave differently from PET on Ingeo™fibre :
• Not all dyes good for PET are good for Ingeo™ fibreDifferent exhaustion (some correlation with acetate dyeing)
• Dye shades are different on Ingeo™ fibre compare with PET: Brighter than on PETHigher visual colour yield than PET
DYE SELECTION FOR INGEO™ FIBRE DYEING IS ESSENTIAL
Ingeo™ fibre dyeing and finishing
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Apparel Product Guidelines
3. Dye selection
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= PLA 1100C, 30min
= PETb 1300C, 30min
Different dyes – different exhaustion
% exhaustion
100%
Ingeo™ fibre dyeing and finishing
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0
2
4
6
8
10
12
400 500 600 700Wavelength (nm)
PET
PLA
PLA PET
O
O
ONH2
OH
Ingeo™ fibre dyeing and finishing
Same dye – different shade
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Selected dyestuff for high wash fastness - DyStar
INGEOTM Fabric Dyeing and Finishing
Dianix Flavine XF
Dianix Deep Red SF
Dianix Blue XF
Ternaries Support dyes
Dianix Scarlet XF
Dianix Rubine XFN
Dianix Turquoise XF
Dianix Navy XF
Dianix Black XF
Dianix Yellow Brown XF
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Selected dyestuff for high light fastness - DyStar
INGEOTM Fabric Dyeing and Finishing
Dianix Orange AM-SLRDianix Red AM-SLRDianix Blue AM-SLR
Dianix Yellow AM-42Dianix Dark Red AM-2BDianix Blue AM-77
Ternaries Support dyes
Dianix Yellow AM-G
Dianix Turquoise S-BG
Dianix Navy AM-G
Dianix Black AM-B
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Selected dyestuff for standard fastness - DyStar
INGEOTM Fabric Dyeing and Finishing
Dianix Yellow AC-E newDianix Red AC-E 01Dianix Blue AC-E
Dianix Yellow Brown CCDianix Rubine C-B 150%Dianix Blue K-FBL
Ternaries Support dyes
Dianix Flavine XF
Dianix Red C-4G 150%
Dianix Violet S-4R
Dianix Dark Blue SE-3RT
Dianix Turquoise S-BG
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DyStar Colouration Package
Comprehensive processing suggestions from DyStar
CD ROM with Colour matching data base
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Apparel Product Guidelines
4. Shades and washing fastness
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AATCC 2A (500C) fastness on pale / medium shades
Shades and fastness
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AATCC 1A (400C) fastness on medium / dark shades
Shades and fastness
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Apparel Product Guidelines
5. Process routes
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Typical Route
Scour / Dye / (Reduction clear)⇓
Hydro⇓
Relax dry⇓
Slit⇓
Pad soften⇓
Stenter dry / heat set 130oC for 20 - 30sec
Ingeo™ fibre knit fabric Dyeing (Staple Yarns)
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Typical Route
Knit⇓
Slit⇓
Pre heat set⇓
Scour / dye / (reduction clear)⇓
Relax dry⇓
Pad soften⇓
Dry and post heat set
125oC for 20 - 30 sec
130oC for 20 - 30 sec
Ingeo™ fibre knit fabric Dyeing (Filament Yarns)
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Stenter pre heat set⇓
Open width desize/scour⇓
Jet dye + reduction clear (dark shades)
⇓Hydro extract
⇓Detwist/open
⇓Pad soften
+ stenter dry / post heat set 130oC for 20 - 30 sec
130oC for 20 - 30 sec
• Many variations in woven fabrics finishing routes• Suggested routing for trial start point only:
Ingeo™ fibre woven fabric dyeing
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Apparel Product Guidelines
6. Dye cycles- 100% Ingeo™ fibre- Ingeo™ fibre / cotton- Ingeo™ fibre / wool- Package dye
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IngeoTM fibre dyeing and finishing - Dye cycles
50oC
60-70oC
1 g/l Kieralon MFB (BASF)
1 g/l Na2Co3
50oC
15mins
Scour
50oC
100% Ingeo™ fibre
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40oC
60oC
110oC*
1 g/l Levegal DLP (Bayer)
Acetic acid/ sodium
acetate to pH 4-5
Dianix dyes
15-30 mins
1-20C/min
Dye
50oC
* Very heavy shadesmay be dyed for 30minat 1150C for maximumcolour yield
100% Ingeo™ fibre
3oC/min
IngeoTM fibre dyeing and finishing - Dye cycles
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Reduction Clear (dark shades)
50oC
60-70oC
2 g/l sodium hydrosulphite
2 g/l Na2Co3
50oC
15mins
50oC
100% Ingeo™ fibre
IngeoTM fibre dyeing and finishing - Dye cycles
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Apparel Product Guidelines
6. Dye cycles- 100% Ingeo™ fibre- Ingeo™ fibre / cotton- Ingeo™ fibre / wool- Package dye
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Ingeo™ fibre / cotton Pre bleach - Peroxide
40oC
95 oC
70oC
30mins
3 g/l Na2Co3
3 cc/l Hydrogen peroxide (35%)
0.5g/l Baystabil LFS-T
1cc/l Baysolex EXT
20min
40oC
0.3cc/l Acetic Acid
50oC 50oC
IngeoTM fibre dyeing and finishing - Dye cycles
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Ingeo™ fibre / cottonAlternative pre bleach - TAED (tetra acetyl ethylene diamine)
Good white base with decreased hydrolysis
40oC
95oC
70oC
40mins
0.5g/l Na2Co3
5.0cc/l Hydrogen peroxide (35%)2.0g/l Warwick T202 (TAED)1.0g/l Pitchrun L300 (scouring agent)1.0g/l Neocrystal CG2000 (sequestering agent)1.0g/l Neorate PLC7000 (peroxide stabiliser)
20min
40oC50oC 50oC
Neutralise with acetic acid if needed
IngeoTM fibre dyeing and finishing - Dye cycles
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Ingeo™ fibre/cottonDisperse / Direct - one bath
10 g/l sodium sulphate
40oC
100oC
110oC
Dianix/Sirius dyes
15-30min
1-20C/min60oC 80oC
3oC/min
1oC/min
1 g/l Levegal DLP (Bayer)
2 g/l Persoftal L (Bayer)
Acetic acid/sodium acetate
to pH 5
50oC
3oC/min
IngeoTM fibre dyeing and finishing - Dye cycles
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40oC
Sirius B* over 5min
NaOH** over 10min
10min 10min10min 10min10min5min
Rinse Neutralise + Acetic Acid
* % Sirius B = 1.0 + (1.5 x %of total direct dye)
Minimum 1.5%/ maximum 7.0%
** cc/l NaOH (40%) = 1 + amount of Sirius B ( in %)
Minimum 2.5%
Ingeo™ fibre /cotton Disperse / Direct - one bath + after treat for darker shades
IngeoTM fibre dyeing and finishing - Dye cycles
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Ingeo™ fibre/ cotton (start point for trials only)Disperse / Reactive - stage 1
1-2oC/min
40oC
60oC
110oC
Dianix dyes
30mins
1 g/l Levegal DLP (Bayer)
2 g/l Persoftal L (Bayer)
Acetic acid/sodium acetate
to pH 5
50oC
60-70oC
2 g/l sodium hydrosulphite
2 g/l Na2Co3
50oC
15mins
50oC
3oC/min
IngeoTM fibre dyeing and finishing - Dye cycles
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Ingeo™ / cotton (start point for trials only)Disperse / reactive - stage 2
30oC
80oC
50oC
60oC
30oC
Sodium sulphate
NaOH
20‘ 40‘
Acetic acid to pH 6
Remazol RGB dyes
50oC
INGEOTM Dyeing and Finishing - Dye cycles
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Apparel Product Guidelines
6. Dye cycles- 100% Ingeo™ fibre- Ingeo™ fibre / cotton- Ingeo™ fibre / wool- Package dye
NB – there has been limited work on dyeing of Ingeo™ fibre blended with wool, and the information provided is based on our best knowledge to date. It can only be taken as guidelines for development work.
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General considerations -Ingeo™ fibre and wool are highly compatible
• Both fibres dislike high temperature and alkali combinations:The pH dyeing conditions for Ingeo™fibre are good for woolThe lower dyeing temperature of Ingeo™ fibre affords more protection to wool than PET blend dyeing
• Stress / strain curves are similar:Indicates compatibilityin most stages of processing
Ingeo™ fibre / wool blends
1.5dtex 38mmFibre Stress Strain Data
0
10
20
30
40
50
60
0 5 10 15 20 25 30 35 40 45 50 55 60Extension (%)
Tena
city
(cN
/tex)
HT Polyester
Lyocell
Cotton
ViscosePLA
Wool
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General considerations for Ingeo™ fibre / wool blend dyeing :
• Disperse dyes will cross stain on woolCan cause fastness issues
(Similar issues on dyeing PET / wool blends)After treatment to minimise cross staining is vital (particularly for dark shades)
• Wash fastness is limited to 40oC tests (e.g. AATCC 1A / C06, A2S)
Ingeo™ fibre / wool blends
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Black
• Dianix Flavine XF 0.19%• Dianix Yellow Brown CC 1.45%• Dianix Turquoise S-BG 0.29%• Dianix Dark blue SE-3RT 2.20%• Isolan Black 2S-LD 1.13%
Navy
• Dianix Flavine XF 0.18%• Dianix Turquoise S-BG 0.42%• Dianix Dark Blue SE-3RT 2.36%• Isolan Dark Blue 2S-GL 1.08%
Ingeo™ fibre / wool blends
Suggested dark shade recipes for Ingeo™ / wool - standard fastness (start point for lab trials only) :
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Ingeo™ fibre / wool blends
Scour (DyStar)
50 °C
60 °C15 min
rinse at 50 °C
1 g/l Diadavin® UNJ (Bayer/Sybron) orKieralon® MFB (BASF)
2 g/l soda ash.
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Ingeo™ fibre / wool blends
40 °C
1-2 °C/min
30 min
1) 1 % Avolan UL® DLP (Bayer/Sybron)1 g/l Avolan IS® (Bayer/Sybron)pH 4.5-5 acetic acid
2) X % Dianix dyes3) Y % Supralan / Isolan dyes
3 °C/min
1 2
110 °C
3
Dye (DyStar)
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Ingeo™ fibre / wool blends
Aftertreat (DyStar)
1.5 g/l Blankit® INpH 8.5-9
rinse at 50 °C
rinse at 30 °C
rinse at 50 °C
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Apparel Product Guidelines
6. Dye cycles- 100% Ingeo™ fibre- Ingeo™ fibre / cotton- Ingeo™ fibre / wool- Package dye
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• Limited experienceWinding
– Density as PET ~ 0.35gm/cc– Minimal yarn shrinkage = minimal increase in package
density after dyeDyeing
– Suggested dye cycle (start point for trials only) as follows
Ingeo™ fibre Staple Yarn – package dyeing
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Ingeo™ fibre yarn package dye cycle (scour, reduction clear etc - as for fabrics)
10C/min
40oC
110oC
1 g/l Levegal DLP (Bayer)
2g/l Ludigol AR
Acetic acid to pH 4-5
Dianix dyes
15-30 mins
50oC
Similar cycle is also appropriate for top dye
NB this is a suggested dye cycle
as a start point for trials only
Flow rate: 3 min in to out, 2 minutes out to in
3oC/min
Ingeo™ fibre Staple Yarn – package dyeing
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Ingeo™ fibre yarn package dye cycle- alternative system with MSP (Mono sodium phosphate) buffer(scour, reduction clear etc - as for fabrics)
10C/min
110oC 15-30 mins
50oC50oC
Dye
MSP to pH 5.0 - 5.3 Plus additional 4 g/l MSP 2.0 g/l Basol WS, 0.25 g/l Milease T (Lubricant)
40oC
Flow rate: 3 min in to out, 2 minutes out to in
NB this is a suggested dye cycle
as a start point for trials only
3oC/min
Ingeo™ fibre Staple Yarn – Package Dyeing
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Apparel Product Guidelines
7. Atmospheric dyeing
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• Limited lab work suggests:Selected dyes give adequate exhaustion at 100oC, 30min
Only pale to medium shades
AATCC 1A fastness
• Trichromatic combination as start point for trials only:
Ingeo™ fibre - atmospheric dyeing
Dianix Deep Red SF Dianix Yellow Brown XF Dianix Dark Blue SE-3RT
Significant for sweater yarn and garment dyeing
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• Process cycle
Scour – as for 100% Ingeo™ fibreDye - as for 100% Ingeo™ fibre, but hold at 98oC for 30min instead of 110oCReduction clear - pale to medium shades, so not normally needed …. or mild process, eg Cyclanon ECO (DyStar)
Ingeo™ fibre - atmospheric dyeing
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humanity, nature and technology in balance
More information at www.ingeofibers.com
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IMPORTANT NOTES:1) The information provided in this document is given in good faith based on the best knowledge of current technology.The information provided can only be taken as a start point for trials to establish production routes for Ingeo™ fibre products.Cargill Dow cannot be held responsible for any claims arising from the information contained within this document, howsoever caused.
2) Yarns produced from different merges, and from different suppliers of INGEO(TM) PLA fibers, may vary in dye uptake, which can influence the reproducibility of shades.It is therefore recommended that before carrying out any production dyeing on new merges or fiber from new suppliers, that the dye recipe is verified by a laboratory check.This is a similar procedure to other man made fibers, and so similar practices should be adopted to control color reproducibility at the final coloration stage.
INGEO (TM) is a trademark of NatureWorks LLC, 15305 Minnetonka Boulevard, Minnetonka, MN 55345-1512, USA