“SPLENDORS OF MOROCCO” · with Europe and other Arab countries. The economy depends largely on...

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“SPLENDORS OF MOROCCO”

Smithsonian Journeys

Charles and Judith Moore October 9‐21, 2011

www.charlieandjudith.com

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TABLE OF CONTENTS

Why Morocco?..................................................................................................................... 4

Welcome to Morocco: A History………………………………………………………………………………………… 5

The Berbers……………………………………………………………………………………………………………………….. 8

Arrival in Casablanca – October 9………………………………………………………………………………………. 11

Exploring Rabat – October 9 & 10………………………………………………………………………………………. 13

On the road: Rabat, Meknes‐Volubilis‐Fez – October 11……………………………………………………. 14

Two days to explore Fez – October 12 & 13……………………………………………………………………….. 18

Traveling through Berber country – October 14…………………………………………………………………. 21

Chasing fossils and camels – October 15……………………………………………………………………………. 24

Traveling through mountains and gorges – October 16……………………………………………………… 27

Over the mountains and through the passes, to Marrakech we charge… ‐ October 17………. 29

Only two days to explore Marrakech – October 18 & 19……………………………………………………. 31

Returning to Casablanca – October 20……………………………………………………………………………….. 35

Tarik‐Slamma – October 21………………………………………………………………………………………………… 37

Personal takeaways from Morocco……………………………………………………………………………………. 38

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Why Morocco?

That’s the question we were repeatedly asked before departing on our Splendors of Morocco journey. Our answer: it’s on our “bucket list”! Judith and I care a lot about archaeology and we knew nothing about the Berber culture. While these are legitimate reasons for visiting a new country, we way underestimated what was to unfold in the next 12 days and its impact on us.

To start with, how can you go wrong when every day includes a blue sky, perfect temperature, no humidity and a light breeze… and they sell fresh squeezed orange juice on the streets for 4 dirhams (less than 50 cents)?

King Hassan II described Morocco as “a tree whose roots lie in Africa but whose leaves breathe in European air”. Our own impression is that Morocco is a country of images and colors; continuity and contrast; history and modernity. The Roman ruins at Volubilis are as thrilling as we have ever been privileged to see. Vast parts of the country still appear to be wasteland but the Berber tribes make even that work. The Berber culture is complex, but their loyalty to family, tribe and country knows no bounds.

France imposed a Protectorate on Morocco, through the Treaty of Fez, in 1912. It took 22 years of struggle for the French to bring the country under their control. The Protectorate ended in 1956. While Independence had been won, it still took some time to achieve national unity, largely through the popularity of Mohammed V. Contrast that with the rest of the Arab world’s monarchies that have been replaced with despotic regimes, like Iraq, Egypt, Yemen and Tunisia.

Morocco is a constitutional monarchy headed by King Mohammed VI, who followed Hassan II (1961‐1999) and his predecessor, Mohammed V (Sultan from 1927‐1953, exile, then King from 1956‐1961). Mohammed VI is wisely addressing appropriate political and cultural reforms. For example, he has agreed to select a new Prime Minister from the majority party (as opposed to someone of his own choice); the election will take place in November.

While Morocco is not rich in natural resources, it does a good job of aligning its commercial interests with Europe and other Arab countries. The economy depends largely on tourism, agriculture and the handcraft and textile industries. Although Morocco imports much of its power, significant amounts of oil and natural gas have been discovered and the fishing industry thrives. Morocco is challenged by a high unemployment rate (over 39% for ages 18‐35), a high rate of child mortality (28 per 1000 births, compared to 6 in US) and illiteracy.

Our travel partners numbered 21 plus our Smithsonian Study Leader and his wife, 25 in all. Six of our fellow “students” were from Seattle, four from Omaha, Nebraska, four from California and the rest from Mississippi, Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, New Jersey and New York. Some of them were retired; most of the others were in various professions, including the law and academia. What we all had in common: all of us were interested in Morocco; and no one was disappointed in the outcome of the experience. We were blessed with an outstanding Moroccan guide, Sedddik Aassim, whose extensive knowledge on everything Moroccan as well as his grace and patience were inexhaustible.

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Bottom line, we loved our trip to Morocco. We got so much more out of it than we expected and believe it should be on everyone’s “bucket list”. What follows is a simplified history of Morocco, a brief accounting of the fascinating Berber culture, a journal of our impressions as we travelled from Rabat to Fez; Erfoud to Ouarazate; Marrakech to Casablanca, and finally, a personally tally of our own “take‐aways”.

King Hassan II (1961‐1999) King Mohammed VI

Marhaba Ila Al Maghrab: Attarikh

Morocco is an ancient kingdom. It came under the influence of Carthage and Rome but its origins are Berber, Arab and African. Since the arrival of Islam in the 7th century, the country has been an independent power and at times, part of an empire. The only Arab country not to have fallen to the Ottomans, it entered the modern era under the Alaouite dynasty at the close of the seventeenth century.

For 40,000 years, Morocco has been a bridge between the East, Africa and Europe. Archaeological finds and rock engravings prove that it was settled in the remote past but little is known of the first Berbers who may have come as early as 8000‐7000 BC.

The Phoenicians (c.1000 BC) were fearless navigators who established trading posts along the Mediterranean coastline. They introduced iron‐working and the cultivation of vines. In the 5th century BC, Hanno, a naval commander from Carthage (modern Tunisia) set out to explore the Atlantic coast westward and soon, those early trading posts were taken over and further developed by Carthage. Under their influence, the Berber tribes eventually joined forces and helped to settle what was then called Mauritania (present day Morocco).

The Vandals, whose King Genseric (428‐77 BC) conquered North Africa followed by the Byzantines, maintained a lasting presence at a few points along the Mediterranean coast. Religious unrest and local uprisings gradually extinguished the hold of all these ancient civilizations.

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The Romans, having destroyed Carthage in 146 BC, extended their control westwards over the northern half of Morocco. Emperor Augustus made what is now known as Tangier, a Roman city. In 25 BC, the ancient kingdom of Mauritania was entrusted to Juba II, King of Numidia, a Berber ruler who had been Romanized and educated and was married to the daughter of Antony and Cleopatra. In the 3rd century, Christianity began to spread in the area and Roman domination was severely diminished.

From the end of the 7th century, a new set of invaders, and with them a new religion, began to make their mark on Morocco. Meeting some resistance, Islam was introduced to the Berber population. Quickly rallying a mainly Berber army, new conquerors turned their attention to Europe, initiating the conquest of Spain in 711. Meanwhile, Islam branched into two main sects, Sunni and Shia. In 786 the Sunni, Ummayad Caliph crushed the Shi’ite Muslims. One of them, Idriss ibn Abadallah, escaped the massacre and was received in Morocco as a prestigious religious leader. In 789 the Aouraba, a Berber tribe in Volubilis, made him their leader. Idriss II carved out a small kingdom and set about building the new cityof Fez. In the meantime, an unexpected push came from the south. A tribe of nomadic Sanhadja Berbers, based in present day Mauritania converted to Islam in the 9th century giving rise to a powerful new empire. The founder of the Almoravid empire, Youssef ibn Tachfin, proclaimed himself Leader of the Faithful, founded Marrakech (Morocco’s second capital) in 1062, and conquered the country as far north as Tangier, and in 1082 as far east as Algeria. He then crossed the Strait of Gibraltar and extended his empire north to Barcelona. Heading south, he had taken over Senegal and the Niger by 1076.

Under the Merinids (1248‐1465), Morocco was gradually reduced to the territory that it covers today. Since the time of Idriss I, Arabs of high social standing who are descendants of the Prophet Mohammed, have always played an important part in the social and political life of Morocco. Putting an end to Berber rule, they emerged from the south and governed Morocco from the 16th century to the present day.

At the beginning of the 16th century, the encroachment of Christian armies on Moroccan soil stimulated a vigorous renewal of religious fervor. There followed a period of relative prosperity under the Saadians, an Arab tribe from the Draa valley. Their leaders traded with Europe and drew up treaties with England and the Netherlands. This period of relative prosperity culminated with the reign of Ahmed el‐Mansour (1578‐1603) who set up a central administration and opened trade lanes with the Saharan countries.

The Alaouite dynasty, the seventh and present ruling dynasty, has given the country some rulers of great stature. Moulay Rachid (1664‐1672) needed ten years to gain control of the country. His younger brother, Moulay Ismail (1672‐1727) in a long and brilliant reign, transferred the capital from Fez to Meknes, imposed central authority and maintained relations with the courts of Europe. Several other rulers prevailed until Moulay Abderrahman was defeated by the French at Isly in 1844. He and his successors were forced to concede control until, at the Conference of Madrid of 1880, foreign powers assumed commercial and consular control of Morocco.

When Moulay Abdel Aziz, a weak ruler, ascended the throne in 1894, France already had an imperial presence in Algeria and Tunisia. The French now aimed to secure a free hand in Morocco, parallel with Britain’s designs in Egypt and those of Italy in Libya. After controversial fiscal reform, Moulay Abdel Aziz

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entered into heavy debt with France. Numerous uprisings led the French to impose a Protectorate, through the Treaty of Fez in 1912.

Marshall Hubert Lyautey, France’s first resident‐general in Morocco, played a decisive role in the imposition of French rule. He moved the capital to Rabat and worked to promote economic development. On the death of Moulay Youssef in 1927, his third son, Sidi Mohammed ben Youssef, succeeded him and took the name of Mohammed V. He was later to restore Morocco’s independence

Under the French, Morocco was divided into two zones: a French zone, covering the largest part of the country, and a Spanish one, in the north and south. Tangier was an international free city. The French Protectorate was both beneficial and detrimental to Morocco: the country’s infrastructure was modernized, its mineral resources were exploited and the most fertile land was used agriculture.

World War II expanded the Moroccan people’s desire for freedom. In 1942, the Allies arrived in Morocco and President Roosevelt pledged the Sultan his support. International opinion no longer supported the colonial powers and the United Nations took over the “Morocco question”. The Sultan refused to abdicate but the French deposed him in 1953. The royal family were forced into exile while the battle for independence gained momentum. After negotiations with France, the deposed Sultan made his triumphant return from exile as King Mohammed V, with Hassan, the heir apparent, at his side. The Protectorate ended in 1956, and in 1958, Tangier and the Spanish enclave of Tarfaya were restored to the kingdom. Independence had been won, although national unity was still to be achieved.

In the rest of the Arab world, monarchies were replaced by authoritarian republican regimes (as in Iraq, Egypt, Yemen and Tunisia). In Morocco, however, Mohammed V’s patriotic sentiment united the country behind a monarchy that has long‐established roots and tends to ensure its unity and stability. Mohammed V died suddenly after an operation, in 1961. His eldest son, Moulay Hassan, succeeded him as Hassan II, whose reign lasted 38 years and was marked by unrest and mixed success. King Hassan II died suddenly in 1999, and was succeeded by his eldest son, Mohammed VI. He enjoys popularity today because of his youth, his stand on human rights issues and his humanitarian approach to solving the problems of illiteracy, poverty and social inequality.

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The Berbers

Ancestors of the Berbers are believed to have arrived from the east in 7, 000 BC. They are credited with domesticating the horse and using iron. It is claimed that 2 of every 3 Moroccans are, in cultural and linguistic terms, Berbers. Thought to be descendants of people of mixed origin – including Oriental, Saharan, and European – the Berbers settled in Morocco at different times, and they do not make up a homogenous race. By finding refuge in mountainous regions, they survived several successive invasions – those of the Mediterranean civilizations, of the Arabs and then much later, of the French and Spaniards. The Berbers still speak several dialects and maintain distinct cultural traditions. They are renowned for their trading activities and the strength of their family and tribal ties.

Although Berber tribal structure is complex, three groups, each with their own histories, can be identified:

• The Sanhaja, nomadic herdsman originating from the south, inhabit the central and eastern High Atlas, the Middle Atlas and the Rif Mountains. They speak dialects of the Tamazight group.

• The Masmouda, settled farmers, live mostly in the western High Atlas and the Anti‐Atlas, and they speak the Chleuh dialect. It was a Masmoudian tribe that founded the Almohad Empire in the 12th century.

• The Zenets, hunters and herdsman came from the east and settled in eastern Morocco. They speak the Znatiya dialect and founded the Merinid dynasty in the 13th century.

With its mixed Berber and Arab population, Morocco has mostly succeeded in maintaining ethnic and cultural equality between Berber and Arab speakers. Although Tamazight, the principal Berber dialect is not spoken or taught in schools, it is one of the languages heard most often on Moroccan radio and television. The movement for promoting the Berber language and culture through the media of newspapers, concerts and other cultural events is dynamic, as are efforts to encourage the wider use of the language and to nurture respect for the richly varied Berber people.

There are as many different types of carpets in Morocco as there are Berber traditions. Moroccan carpets, however, can be divided into two main groups: Berber carpets and city carpets. We purchased a Berber carpet which is both knotted and woven. The wool, which the women weave into simple or complex patterns, harmonious colors and shapes and sizes, varies from one region to the next.

The Berber alphabet is shown on the facing page. The location of the Berber populations is represented on the map on the following page. Today, the majority of Berbers live in Morocco but there are also Berbers living in Algeria, Libya, Mali and Niger.

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Arrival in Casablanca ‐ October 9

We believe first impressions are important and an indication of the way things will continue to go.On this trip, we were certainly off to a bad start! Royal Air Maroc is not royal anything. The fleet of Boeing 676’s is old, cramped and neither our cabin lighting nor sound system worked! Try that for 5+ overnight hours! And, while Casablanca may be Morocco’s chief port, economic capital and largest city, its airport and, especially the immigration process, is definitely “third‐world”. The good news was that immigration was so slow and convoluted that our baggage was waiting for us as soon as we were freed from the tangles of bureaucracy. It was not long until our full travel group of 25 was loaded onto our bus to drive to Rabat. This coach, driver and guide would remain with us until we returned to Casablanca twelve days later, as would our study leader, Moshe Gershovich, Israeli‐born, professor of history at the University of Nebraska, Omaha. When we said good‐by at the end of the trip, we felt like we were losing old friends. The morning temperature was 54 degrees, higher than normal in October, causing some early morning fog but being on the ground and in Morocco at last, things had definitely taken a turn for the better.

Rabat, capital of the French Protectorate from 1912‐1956 and Moroccan capital since independence, is home of the king, newest leader of one of the world’s longest reigning dynasties. We were to stay at the Moorish‐style La Tour Hassan, the oldest hotel in Morocco (1914). Our 90 minute drive to Rabat was not inspiring: arid land, garbage along the roadway and the ugliest apartments built with international aid to combat the slum problem. We were told that the main economic activity was “subsistence agriculture”, followed by mining (phosphate), chemicals, textiles and leather. Morocco currently imports oil from Saudi Arabia to be refined in Morocco, and most of its natural gas from Algeria, although theirs is a tenuous and strained relationship. Most of Morocco’s electricity is produced by hydro‐electric; there is a cable system originating in Spain. Solar power is just getting started. We were

told that 51% of Morocco’s 32 million people live in the cities. Rabat’s population is 1.5 million. The exodus from rural Morocco is a concern, and the government is working to bring electricity and water to even the smallest villages. We stopped at a roadside Kasbah for hot mint tea. The Moroccan national drink, this is green tea infused with a handful of fresh mint, filled with sugar and very refreshing ‐ almost as rejuvenating as the cocoa tea served in the high altitudes of Peru!

Rabat has a European elegance, yet maintains an Islamic character all its own. Along with Meknes, Fez and Marrakech, Rabat is one of the four ancient capitals or imperial cities. Our hotel and its grounds were spacious and charming. After unpacking and lunch, many of us took off with Moshe for a walk around the “New City”. We

Avenue Mohammed VI

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passed St. Peters, one of only two Catholic cathedrals in all of Morocco built by the French under the Protectorate. Unfortunately, it was locked. Rabat has many Bauhaus‐style apartment buildings and as we turned onto Avenue Mohammed V, we could see the mosque on top of a hill at one end and all the way to the Old City wall on the other. This central avenue is lined with palm trees whose bases are covered with ivy and is home to Parliament, the central bank and many other “central” offices, like telephone, railroad and post office. We walked, but were told that the “petit” taxis are very cheap: colored red in Rabat, blue in Fez and yellow in Marrakech. Our first official “group meeting” was called by Seddik, our Moroccan guide, and Moshe, where part of our introduction included our answering the query, “What 5 persons, dead or alive, would you like to invite to dinner”? As we went around the large, boardroom‐style table, this proved to be an interesting opening mixer. The answers ranged from Jesus and Cleopatra to Mark Twain and an 8‐year old grandson. Following a little rest, we were whisked off to the medina (meh‐deen‐ah) and our welcome dinner at Dinerjet , a famous restaurant located in Rabat’s Old Town.

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Exploring Rabat – October 9 & 10

Situated on the Atlantic Ocean, on a waterfront that stretches from Tangier to Tarfaya, Rabat offers domes and minarets, sweeping terraces, wide avenues and green spaces. It is the political, administrative and financial capital of Morocco, the country’s main university town and its second‐largest metropolis after Casablanca. Our first destination was the archaeological excavation of the Merinid Necropolis at Chellah, which was first occupied by the Romans and then, around 1150, by the first ruler of the Almohad dynasty, who chose to establish a camp here and ordered a small imperial residence to be built on the site of an old fortified monastery. The surrounding Roman town of Sala Colonia was destroyed in the Madrid earthquake of 1755. French archeologists began excavating the town in the 1900s, so the tile colors are relatively fresh. It was just terrific, as evidenced by all the photos we took, including of the storks who kept watch from their nests atop the minarets.

Merinid Necropolis at Chellah

Our next stop was Mohammed V’s Mausoleum and the Hassan Mosque, followed by the Oudaia Kasbah, with its warren of alleys crammedlined with both residences and shops. Then, we crossed the Wadi River to Sale to visit the Museé Belghazi, Africa’s largest, private museum to enjoy a cozy luncheon. This place was a collector’s delight and was stuffed with everything Moroccan (lots of ideas for our “Moroccan room” at Edgemoor). The wadis (rivers) are at low‐level because of the hydro‐ electric dams and the lack of rain. Space along the Wadi River, which flows

through the heart of Rabat, has been excavated for a mammoth development of houses, hotels and shops, financed by UAE investors before their current financial crisis.

Shrine of Mohammed V

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The rest of our day was spent listening to Moshe’s first lecture, “Introduction to Morocco: Land, People, Culture, History”, and on the rejuvenation of ourselves, our camera batteries and memory cards.

On the road: Rabat, Meknes‐Volubilis‐Fez ‐ October 11

Facing heavy opposing commuter traffic a little after 8:00am, we still had no problem clearing the city though we chuckled while passing a workout shop called “Musculation”! I guess it’s all about language!

Outside Rabat, we passed the king’s residence –the palace wasn’t visible, but we saw extensive stables and a racetrack. Mohammed VI is an avid horseman and keeps two kinds of horses – Arabians and Barbs (Moroccan bred). There were flocks of storks like the ones we saw in Chellah, grazing on the spacious estate. We headed north along the Rif Mountains, parallel to the foothills of the Atlas range. There are four mountain ranges in Morocco with the North Atlas reaching a height of 13,676 feet. All of these mountains are inhabited by the Berbers. On our way, we passed “cork” trees (they harvest the bark every three years). Pumpkins are a very important vegetable (over 1.1 million are used just in making a traditional couscous dish each year). The flour for couscous (a Moroccan staple) can be made of wheat, barley or corn. Olives are the most important crop; we passed miles and miles of olive groves. In Morocco, green olives are harvested in October/November and the black ones in January. The olive export trade is comprised mostly of sun‐dried, black ones that have been steeped in oil. In the markets you see olives piled in pyramids in a wide variety of colors and flavors. Moroccan olive oil is not as popular as oil from other countries as it is more acidic.

Mausoleum

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Meknes, the youngest of Morocco’s imperial cities (1672‐1727) is today renowned for its olives, wine and mint tea. It was a Berber city and is surrounded by three concrete fortress‐type walls covering over 25 miles. We entered at Bab el‐Khemis (photo), which led us immediately into the ancient Jewish quarter, now mostly devoid of Jews. Many Jews left Morocco between 1967‐1989. We then entered into the royal city of Meknes, built by the ruthless, warrior, Sultan Moulay Ismaïl, who reigned for 55 years, had 500

concubines and 800 sons and died in 1727. This ended the dynastic era of Meknes, as the next ruler moved the capital to Rabat.

We visited Heri es‐Sounani, a huge barrel‐vaulted granary, built of massive masonry walls with running water to cool them. The storage capacity of this granary could feed the Sultan, his armies, etc. for two years. Built by 3,000 Christian prisoners and 30,000 black slaves, the roofs were arched; an unusual style for Morocco. Temporary forms made of debris and limbs supported the construction of the roof. Today, still standing perfectly with the temporary under‐structure removed, you see the debris/limb lines in the ceiling (photo). The stables, now with only walls and columns still standing after the 1755 earthquake, housed 800 horses. Heri es‐Sounani

Next, we visited Sultan Moulay Ismaïl’s mausoleum, mosque and shrine with some amazing mosaics and stuccowork (photo). Arab mosaic designs take three forms: floral, geometric and calligraphic. We were taken by the phrase which means “Glory to God” and is repeated throughout the structure. Before lunch, we walked to an open market square which had everything, especially fresh orange juice. We re‐boarded the coach and headed for Volubilis, 30 miles to the north. Now, we were really into olive grove country, and where the roadside was also lined with prickly pear cactus. Apparently, this very unfriendly looking plant produces a sweet fruit which is all the dearer for having braved the thorny process of picking it.

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Volubilis is believed to be one of the oldest cities in Morocco, prospering from the 3rd century BC to 40 AD. Roman legionnaires created Volubilis at the crossroads of east‐west‐north‐south trade. Many of the Romans intermarried with the Berbers and chose to stay in the 2nd and 3rd centuries, while the legionnaires returned home. French archaeologists undertook an amazing project of digging out the Roman city from 1925‐1933. Given their relatively brief exposure to the elements, the mosaics are wonderful. It’s one of the best archeological excavations Judith and I have ever seen. It covers a huge area with grand roadways including the Arch of Triumph (photo), baths and basilicas‐‐ one breathtaking excavation after another. Some of the mosaics contain semi‐precious stones like lapis lazuli and malachite. We are amazed that the site isn’t more protected from possible looting. There is evidence of

an attempt at building a museum and securing the perimeter, but work on that seems to have stopped. After two hours in the scorching late afternoon sun, we were regrettably done as were our camera batteries, and it was time to ride for over two hours to Fez.

Volubilis

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The Sofitel Palais Jamai, our home in Fez, is a former palace built in authentic Moorish style in 1897. It was converted to a hotel by the French in 1926, and it’s sumptuous! We finished a perfect day with dinner in the Moroccan restaurant, with, of course, traditional Moroccan music. There was a gorgeous full moon easily seen from our terrace, as well as lovely gardens. Every hotel we stayed in had a swimming pool but we never seemed to have time to even sit by one.

Palais Jamai

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Two days to explore Fez ‐ October 12 & 13

Our morning was spent exploring Fez’ ninth century medina, so important that it is a UNESCO World Heritage site. It is a maze of more than 9,000 streets and alleys, many of which we explored. Lined with shops of every description, most of these narrow, paver streets wind their way up, down and around and offer for sale anything you can see, touch or smell. No cars are allowed in the medina, only donkeys. “Bela” is the alarm shouted at you to get out of the way of a donkey, which, given the loads they carry, can take up most of the thoroughfare. We made three planned stops: for carpets, leather, and woven materials. With our Moroccan room in mind for Edgemoor, we purchased a beautiful Berber rug and two bolts of material to cover the new beds/benches. At the tannery we could see the workers treading the leather in the tanning vats. Very colorful. Judith and I each got a pair of traditional yellow Fez slippers. (It should only take a year or so to break them in.) We walked around Karaouiyine Mosque, the medieval theological university that opened in 859, earlier than either Oxford or Bologna. It was founded by a religious woman from Kairouan in Tunisia, who donated her worldly riches for its construction. We weren’t allowed to go inside, but you can see a lot of the beautiful decoration from the open archways around all four sides. It is the centerpiece of the medina in Fez and scholars come from around the world to study here. It is one of the main intellectual centers of Islam and is the seat of the University in Fez. By nearly one o’clock, we were ready for lunch at our hotel. In the afternoon, after lecture #2,” The Call from the Minaret: Islam to Morocco”, we visited Musée Dar el‐Batha, the oldest museum in Morocco (1912), converted from a 19th century palace. On the way, we passed by and through impressive 14th century fortress walls (freshly plastered) and the royal gates. The museum is built in a square around not–so‐beautifully maintained Andalusian

gardens and houses mostly Berber artifacts; I was most impressed with the 200 year‐old oak tree that dominates the gardens. We then drove through the 14th century Jewish quarter (mellah) stopping at the Danan Synagogue. This has been recently renovated even to the unusual fabric used to cover the Torah. The Jewish cemetery was a bit of a let‐down as there were no sculptures, only row after row of white mounds.

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A few had small tile decorations. We met the “master” of the cemetery and saw some of his recent photos, including

some of him with Prince Charles. (both Prince Charlies in Yalmukes) We then walked through a long souk before reaching the royal palace (built in 1968), where the King stays when he’s in Fez. His wife is from Fez, and she likes to visit with her family here. In driving through the main streets of the Jewish quarter, we noted elaborately designed balconies. Many Jewish merchants made their fortunes in salt, a dominant business in the

15‐17th centuries.

We returned to the 19th century medina for dinner with a Berber family. We were served “Ramadan” soup (actually, Lahrira Fassia ) and then ate with our fingers and the aid of bread, a tagine of beef and quince. The family joined us at dinner. Their home was refurbished in 1924, based on the

Arab calendar (i.e. equivalent to 100 years ago). It was a great finish to a busy day. Fun fact for the day: the Moroccan newspaper, LE MATiN, is the only newspaper in the world that lists the date in four different calendars: Christian, Arabic, Berber and Jewish.

Our second day in Fez was equally eventful. We went to bed with that beautiful full moon and woke up to yet another brilliant blue sky. On the outskirts of Fez, we passed one of the five new soccer stadiums Morocco built with the hope of securing the 2010 World Cup Games (they went to South Africa).

The stadium seats 60,000 and unfortunately sees little use. The highway we followed was the original camel caravan trade route which ran north‐south across the Sahara desert over 4,000 years ago. (Camels, by the way, are not indigenous to North Africa).

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Our first destination was a Berber village with a number of cave dwellings. We were met in the village by Mohammed, who proved to be a stand‐up comedian, as well as the official guide to his cave. He prepared our tea with great flourish and led us in singing. The village, thanks probably to Mohammed’s notoriety, has grown to a population of 2,000, so now qualifies as a town. They manufacture the unusual metal doors there which we noticed throughout the trip.

We then motored to an ancient town at the foot of the Middle Atlas Mountains. Sefrou was founded by a Berber tribe which converted to Judaism 2,000 years ago. Even though Idriss I Islamicized the people in the 8th century and by the 12th century, trade with other Saharan peoples brought prosperity to Sefrou. By 1950, a third of Sefrou’s population was Jewish. It is important to note that from 1967‐1969, the majority of Moroccan Jews emigrated to Israel or other European countries and America. Sefrou is famous for its cherry festival at the end of June.

It was market day in Sefrou and again, we walked through and saw it all. We also visited a Jewish orphanage, built about 70 years ago but which is no longer operative, as well as a freshly restored synagogue, also not operating. On the way back to Fez , we passed millions of olive trees along with the prickly pear cactus and saw the agave plant, used for both soap and a sweet syrup. We stopped at a renowned pottery factory that makes the complex blue and white geometric patterned traditional “blue de Fez” household and decorative objects. After a tour of their operation and learning that they now use gas to fire the kilns instead of the traditional wood and olive pits (because of smoke

pollution), we even purchased a few pieces. No surprise there!

On returning to the hotel, we turned right around with our guide to visit the Alis Art Gallery in the medina, that we had passed the previous morning. It’s a “collector’s museum”, and they have everything Moroccan, especially Berber antiques and other old items. We were determined to purchase a Moroccan door and/or an Arab calligraphy piece for our Edgemoor Moroccan room. We found the perfect Berber door and frame that also has extensive Arabic calligraphy (mostly about “good health”) thereby combining both prerequisites in one piece. That completed our

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shopping, or so we thought! We arranged to have it shipped to New York where it now sits awaiting transport to Laporte. Working our way back through the incredible medina maze, we returned to the hotel, had a late lunch by the pool and passed on the afternoon’s concert of traditional Arabic music featuring Souffi Aissawa and Andalucian music. We did pull ourselves together in time to join our fellow travelers for dinner at the hotel’s international restaurant. Fez provided two fabulous days of sightseeing, shopping and gastronomic excess.

Traveling through Berber Country ‐ October 14

We left our luxurious hotel and exciting Fez with some reluctance and headed south. It’s Friday, a working day, but also the day for prayer and a sermon, followed by a big family couscous meal. Already, Muslims are looking for their next big celebration (in early November and as important as Christmas to Christians), when each family slaughters a male lamb. The celebration extends into a three‐day holiday and sometimes goes on for two weeks. One caveat: it must be a happy celebration. For example, in 1953 when King Mohammed V was exiled by the French, the holiday was cancelled.

We were to climb the Atlas Mountains, which range runs northwest to southeast and is the result of substantial volcanic activity; we passed miles of lava rock. Our first stop was University Al Akhawayn (AUI). It was founded in 1996 with money acquired from Saudi Arabia after an oil spill off Moroccan’s shore. The restitution agreed to by the Saudis was US $50 million. King Mohammed V was so touched, he essentially matched the gift and AUI was born as a beautifully landscaped “green oasis” with chalet‐type construction and severely pitched tile roofs. It’s a complete campus; we saw the Mosque , a miniature of the great mosque that we would visit in Marrakech named in honor of Mohammed V, visited the beautifully paneled library where there was a statue of Gandhi which was a gift from India; and their impressive athletic complex complete with a 50 meter Olympic‐sized pool!

Minaret at AUI

Enrollment at AUI is 2,000 including over 100 international students. Nearly all classes are taught in English. There are 16 one‐semester transfer students from West Point, primarily studying Arabic. This exchange program used to be with Egypt and Yemen, countries no longer considered safe and accessible. AUI’s principal fields of study include the humanities, social science and global business and economics.

First Lady, Hillary Clinton, spoke at their second commencement. Admet Bozer, President of Coca‐Cola, Eurasia and Africa, was to be a guest speaker the day after our visit. Our study leader, Moshe

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Gershovich, as a Fulbright scholar, had taught there for 2 ½ years shortly after UAI opened. This area does experience real winters; up to six months of snow. The lowest temperature ever recorded in Africa was recorded at a nearby research station.

As we left, we passed Ifrane, a very attractive new town built to support the university and to house its faculty. As we climbed the Middle Atlas mountains, we were introduced to forests of oak, Berber nomad encampments (tents), three grown Barbary Apes (1 carrying a baby), two kinds of cedar trees (the flat‐ topped Atlantic Cedar and the pointed‐topped Cedars of Lebanon, both indigenous to Morocco), masonry snow fences and lots of interesting rock formations. The proud Zion tribe is dominant in this area.

Most of the area in our travel from Fez to Marrakech was Berber country. Three concepts are sacred to all Berbers: God‐Nation‐King. No one is allowed to criticize any of the three.

Having seen nothing but barren land at elevations up to 5,300 feet, except a scrubby evergreen plant used for stuffing mattresses, we were ready for a break. This occurred at a funny little place next to nowhere called Tarda where we stopped for lunch.

We now followed the Ziz River, which eventually joins the Gheris River to form Morocco’s largest oasis and the location of one of its great hydroelectric dams. At first, the Ziz was a mostly dry creek running parallel to our highway. As the volume of water increased so did the amount of vegetation. Moshe and Sideek call this the “Green River”. Despite the dry conditions, we spotted all kinds of wild flowers. The sheer verticality of the rock formations is dramatic. We passed a spa where the water bubbles up hot enough to bathe in. In 1928, French Legionnaires viewed this as the “end of the world” but in 1968, it was the French who built the Ziz Dam. By now, we were getting much closer to Algeria, which was still occupied by the French in 1940. Algeria got its independence in 1962 and quickly adopted Communism. With Russia as its partner, they opted for industrialization; that failed and poverty followed. In contrast, Morocco gained its independence in 1956 and opted for a monarchy and an agricultural economy. Libya financed Algeria in their territorial dispute with Morocco, over the Western Sahara. Up to 1 million tourists from Algeria used to visit Morocco. With their ongoing territorial disputes, the Algeria/Morocco borders are now closed, a difficult feat as no one seems to know where the borders are!

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We traveled through Er Rachidia, with its population in excess of 1/2million. It is the gateway between northern and southern Morocco and has grown in part because of the military base there. At 220,000 strong, Morocco has one of the largest armies in Africa. Military service is compulsory for men between the ages of 18 and 32 with some exceptions for students. We journeyed on to Kasbah Chez Gui, a charming little hotel with a huge central swimming pool.

Kasbah Chez Gui

We arrived just after dark and were greeted by a lively band.

Dinner was the usual Moroccan buffet. Somehow, we always managed to share a bottle or two of wine with our friends but we failed to teach the bartender how to make a decent martini.

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Chasing fossils and camels ‐ October 15

Erfoud is the only Arab‐speaking area in this predominantly Berber land. The city was built in 705 AD in the form of fortified villages. The women dress in plain black, with no decoration, and completely cover themselves in veils. Located on the caravan trail leading from Timbuktu (in present day Mali) to Mecca, the “new city” of Erfoud was built in the late 1920s, largely on the remains of the old city built by the French. Our first stop was to visit a “manufacturer” of fossil products from a nearby area that was under the ocean dating back hundreds of millions of years. Limestone compressed into marble over the years is quarried in slices up to 40 inches thick, and they make anything you want with it: from fountains to tabletops to paperweights. Naturally, we shopped.

We’re now in serious date country. There are 14 varieties of dates ranging from uneatable to pricy delicacies. Female dates produce the fruit; male dates (2% of population) produce the pollen. Dates are artificially inseminated. Who would have believed that? There is a date festival in October but we missed it. Dates figure in many rituals, and in birth, wedding and burial ceremonies. They are served at every meal often in unusual combinations with meats, vegetables, and couscous.

We drove through a pre‐dam oasis area that was originally supported by underground aqueducts, which tied hundreds of small wells together. As noted in the “History” section, the 7th and current ruling dynasty is the Alaouite, started in the 17th century. Approaching the fortified village of Rissani, through a magnificent gate, we visited this old trading town on the trans‐Saharan caravan routes. The sights included a shrine in honor of Moulay Ali Cherif, father of the founder of the Alouite dynasty, and a mosque that served as a student teaching center. The center garden was chock full of date palms. We also visited a fortress‐type house (ksar), now in ruins, built by a governor in 1900 and were greeted by a man who was born there and now, after years of military service has been allowed to move back in with his family. On the way back to the hotel, we stopped at Maison Touvary for tea and pillow cover shopping for our Moroccan room. Faced with a two hour respite, Judith provided a light lunch poolside while I caught up on my journal.

At 3:30pm we were off to the Sahara Desert in 4x4 jeeps. It took at least 50 minutes to get to our destination, Merzouga and the Erg Chebbi Dunes. Racing across the mostly‐flat terrain reminded us of

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our desert visit with Jim and Richard in Abu Dhabi. We all climbed aboard our patiently waiting kneeling camels. My camel was tied to Judith’s and led by our camel boy, Ali, whose father lives in nearby Algeria. Pilgrimage style, we climbed the dunes and the 360 degree view was magnificent! Ali talked Judith into wearing his royal blue jellaba and turban. We then sat, while the world stopped, and watched the sunset. It was pretty, but as clouds were beginning to gather, not as spectacular as it might have been. Looking across the Sahara desert, including east toward Algeria, was both beautiful and sobering. Back to re‐mount our camels, we “ploddingly” returned to our waiting jeeps. There was a tiny lake which Seddik said he had never seen with any water in it before. When there is water, there are often migratory birds such as storks and flamingos. Alas, not this trip. We had a late dinner that night but it was the same as the night before so pretty much routine. We had a powerful day “chasing fossils and camels”.

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Erg Chebbi Dunes

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Traveling through mountains and gorges – October 16

Today, we started at an elevation of 2,400 feet (Erfoud), climbed to 5,000 feet, and finished at 3,800 feet (Ouarzazate); we’re traveling mostly west through the most barren country, occasionally interrupted by surprising oases. On our eastern side we see the High Atlas range, on the western side we see the Anti‐Atlas range, which is older and rich with fossils. As we leave Erfoud, we pass the royal palace built only recently at the strong urging of the people of Erfoud, given that it’s the birthplace of the present dynasty. Given the large spans of time that it took to drive though this barren land, we used that time in part to discuss Berber and Moroccan customs. Until recently, women needed family consent to marry; now, that’s not necessary over the age of 18. Until recently, husbands could repudiate their marriage without judicial consent; they just supplied a “letter” announcing their intention. Now, it requires legal action, and women can initiate divorce proceedings. Dowery is still practiced in two parts: at the marriage and the “remainder”comes later (especially important in the event of a divorce). King Mohammed VI is responsible for these “social” changes, which he enacted shortly after his ascendency (1999). Inheritance hasn’t changed. Sons still get twice as much as daughters.

Mohammed VI is 47. His wife is about 37 and her title is Laylah (princess), not queen. They have two children: son age 8 and daughter age 4. Bill Clinton attended the royal wedding in Rabat. Mohammed VI earned his PhD in Nice with a thesis on Morocco and EU relationships. It’s clear that he has a strong alliance with Europe.

We passed through Tinerhir, a stunning mountain oasis, surrounded by a series of lush, riverside produce gardens accented by palm trees and ornately decorated villages. It was near here that we visited the 984 foot deep

Todra Gorge, and spotted rock climbers 75% of the way up a nearly vertical smooth cliff face! Crossing barren land with mountains on both sides can be spellbinding. No billboards, no traffic jams, no distractions, no people – nothing! We again were intrigued with the well mounds forming the underground irrigation, no longer in use except for the occasional nomad. The Ait Atta (Berber) tradition dominates this area. We passed mineral mines (e.g. cobalt)

Todra gorge

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which are now privatized, which causes problems with the historic practice of miners bequeathing jobs to their sons. We saw goats, sheep and camels, although much of this barren land can’t support sufficient vegetation for animals, not even these. This is exacerbated by the fact that the soil also has too much salt in it. We passed though gates on the highway that marked boundaries: Morocco is divided into 16 regions and then into provinces, all overseen by individual governors and the central government. Western Sahara (population 50,000) is a current problem. Who really owns it? Morocco is proposing two regions with full autonomy but operating under the Moroccan army, flag and monarchy. The West Saharans want independence so the trick is how to couch the voting, as Western Sahara is currently part of Morocco and under continuing surveillance by the UN.

After lunch at Chez Michelle, we continued on to El Kelaa M’gauna, Morocco’s “rose capital”1 before beginning our journey along “The Route of 1,000 Kasbahs”, a region of fortresses with elaborately decorated facades. On the way, we passed a worker demonstration at a silver mine. We heard that Mohammed V’s secret prisons were located in the area, where objectors were sent without due process. Mohammed VI closed them. In Skoura, considered an administrative hub, we saw a tribal chief’s Kasbah that has been refurbished by a Spanish couple and is now operated as a guest house. Before reaching Ouarzazate, we passed a mammoth lake, along which the rich have built their mansions.

Finally our goal: Ouarzazate, a former garrison town of the French Foreign Legion, founded in 1928 as a strategic base. Today, it’s quite beautiful and peaceful, attracting many tourists. It also still attracts film making (e.g. Lawrence of Arabia and The Gladiators). Paradoxically, there are no movie theaters in this city today. Our hotel, Le Berber Palace is spacious with individual cottages and several lobbies full of statues once used in movie sets. We were in room #324 about as far away from the lobby center as you could get! There were lime trees, a few birds, but still no light in the bedrooms!

Le Berber Palace

1 In the 10th century, pilgrims returning from Mecca brought Rosa damascena back with them to Morocco. These peppery scented flowers have developed a resistance to the cold, dry conditions in which they are now grown.

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Over the mountains and through the passes, to Marrakech we charge…

Our day started with lecture # 3, “Western Imperialism and the Shaping of Modern Morocco”. It was an excellent and timely accounting of Morocco’s evolution from colonialism to independence.

Ouarzazate was a very pivotal center for the French army from which they could get better control of the south and east. As we motored down the main street, named after the King, as usual, we passed a number of still active movie sets. It was here that Michael Douglas filmed the Jewel of the Nile and Martin Scorsese produced a number of films. Compared to Egypt, Morocco is less expensive for film makers, friendlier and safer. Our first stop was an imposing Kasbah built in 1830 by the leaders of the Glaoui tribe. In time, two brothers assumed leadership; one died and the other proved ruthless, powerful and eventually an agent of the French. When Mohammed V returned from exile that brother was forced to beg for pardon from the king. The Glaouis controlled the passage of all trade in this area and were much respected by the French and the king.

Our next stop was Aït Benhaddou, the stal (a fortified village surrounded by walls set with watch towers) which stands on the left bank of the Wadi Mellah. When there is water in this river, tourists have to

cross on donkeys. We could walk as it was bone dry. A UNESCO World Heritage site, the village’s old section consists of deep red kasbahs so tightly packed together they appear as a single building. Originally built in the 12th century, there were 12 kasbahs. It is very unusual for the upper class to live in such a “community”. Today, the buildings are extremely fragile, and the government is paying people to return to inhabit 6 kasbahs in order to better maintain them. This

helps but it is the end of this basically clay style of Berber architecture. We encountered serious stairs to get to the top level for the best viewing. By good luck, I had taken my cane, which was critical in getting get up and down the winding, irregular Berber stone, steep, uneven steps.

Aït Benhaddou

After lunch, we ascended the High Atlas Mountains and eventually, navigated its narrow roadways at dizzying heights. The mountains simply defy description. Rock in all forms, colors and lusters, including white and pink veins. Millions of years of compression and tectonic shifts have caused fascinating strata with minerals shining through. High rocks precariously positioned, so you’re sure that with the mildest of winds, they will come crashing down on you. The mountains go from being devoid of vegetation to a

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tree cover of a version of Aspen and later, all kinds of conifers. There was much evidence of volcanic activity and the resulting lava. There are two passes: Tizi and Tizi N‐Pichka (at 7,417 foot elevation, the highest pass in Morocco)! The excellent road over which we traveled was built by the French, who required bordering Berber tribes to “contribute” labor to construct “their” section. There are more “S” curves per mile than anything I’ve ever seen, not to mention hairpin turns with little or no barriers. Of

course, there are road stands all along the way, but with little room to stop. At one, they were selling argan oil, made from vitamin rich nuts of the argan tree and which is, supposedly, an excellent facial cream. Argan oil is also used to flavor salads and tagines and as fuel for lamps. Camels and goats love the fruits and leaves of this multi‐purpose tree.

Finally, we entered the outskirts of Marrakech, the fourth largest city of Morocco with a population of just over 1 million. There are 8 golf courses in Marrakech; we passed two, including the oldest built by Glaoui in the late 20th century. We approached the city from the south, the old part built in 1062. The Almohads built grand palaces in this area. Our hotel, Sofitel Marrakech is located just outside the city walls, near the Koutoubia Mosque. It is very modern, but, at last – reading lights! I worked happily on the balcony overlooking magnificent gardens with wisps of bright red bougainvillea dangling over the walls. Considered Morocco’s most cosmopolitan city, Marrakech boasts a spectacular location surrounded by rich farmlands and high mountains. The city was settled in the early 11th century and is now a dominant center of art and culture, blending ancient medinas with contemporary architecture.

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Only two days to explore Marrakech ‐ October 18

After another glorious buffet breakfast by the pool, we visited two palaces. The first, the relatively contemporary (19th century) Bahia Palace highlights the Andalusian influence and the fascinating harem quarters. A riad is a traditional residence arranged around a marble paved courtyard planted with trees and flowers but with no windows to the outside and usually with a central fountain and other works of zellij tile art. This one is in excellent condition. In 1912, it was taken over by the French and used as an administrative base. I don’t know that anybody ever counted the

number of rooms but it covers 11 acres. Winston Churchill visited there on several occasions when Marshall Lyautey was serving as Governor of Marrakech during the French Protectorate. Several rooms are predominantly blue (majorelle); another favorite color is red (mamounia).

Bahia Palace

The second palace, El Badi, “The Incomparable” was built in the late 16th century by Ahmed el‐Mansour. It is in ruins, having been deconstructed by Moulay Ismail in 1683 so the exquisite building materials could be used to build his palace in Meknes, but we could sense its former splendor from the layout of the the sunken gardens (planted

with orange trees), pools and surrounding pavilions, not to mention the three storks atop its walls standing sentry. We next visited the late 12th century Kutubiyya Mosque, which was destroyed by Moulay Ismail, but has now been restored. It contains a magnificent Minbar (stairs from which the Imam preaches), which has been lovingly restored by craftsmen at the Metropolitan Museum of Art. El Badi

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Although the tombs of the Saadian dynasty were neglected for more than two centuries, they constitute some of the finest examples of Islamic architecture in Morocco. Their style is in complete contrast to the simplicity of Almohad architecture. There are believed to be 160 tombs, with pavilions for men separate from pavilions for women. At the height of the Saadian dynasty, they recognized seven Christian pilgrims who had been converted by the Prophet. This appeared as a threat to Moulay Ismail, so he had the tombs destroyed. Today, the symbolism has been replaced by the mystery of the “seven saints”. All of that and miles of walking through the medina had us ready for a delightful lunch (including “Ramadan” soup) on our hotel’s terrace.

In the afternoon, we extensively explored the city souks, acquiring a few more accessories for Edgemoor and checking out the yarn‐dyers, wrought iron makers, lantern makers, herbalists and wood carvers. We ended up at the Place Jemaa el‐Fna, the wide open plaza at the heart of Marrakech where food vendors, snake charmers, acrobats and magicians all vied for our dirham. It’s a circus atmosphere that has existed since the earliest days. Apparently, at night, this market place comes alive with music, smells and activity. We chose to be rescued by our bus and returned to the

hotel. Judith and I dined alone at La Trattoria, a delightful Italian restaurant in the Gueliz district, with transportation provided round trip by a wonderful cab driver named Abdelifattah. When he dropped us off, we tried to pay him for the trip and he said, “No wait! I come back for you”. We did and two hours later ‐ he did! Never in New York!

Our second day in Marrakech started with lecture # 4 “Old Country, New Nation, Contemporary Nation”, followed by a ride in horse‐drawn carriages to the walled Menara (gardens covering 220 acres) and then on to the majestic Majorelle Gardens , an amazing botanical garden in the heart of the city. French artist Jacques Majorelle created this masterpiece in 1929 during Morocco’s colonial period.

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In 1931, Majorelle added an Art Deco studio with pergolas and bright blue walls. The spacious garden, separate from the house, opened to the public in 1947. Couturier Yves Saint‐Laurent and Pierre Bergé purchased the house in 1980. Skillfully restored, the gardens contain yucca, bougainvillea, bamboo, laurel, geraniums, hibiscus, cypresses and over 4,400 varieties of palm trees and 1,800 species of cactus. The studio has been converted to a small museum that contains a collection of mostly Berber crafts. After Saint‐Laurent’s death in June 1, 2008, the property was left to the Saint Laurent/Bergé Foundation in Paris. Judith and I were so captivated by the gardens that we stayed to have lunch in their café and roamed the gardens for over an hour looking for birds. We were told that we could expect to see as many as 15 species of birds native to North Africa and known for their cobalt blue accents. That didn’t happen, but we did see, but could not identify at least 3 species. On the way back to the hotel, we stopped to buy another suitcase to attempt to carry all our” loot” back to New York.

Early in the evening, we went to the home of a professor of Marrakech University and a Visiting Professor at several American universities, who introduced us to a young Imam2 who had just completed his PhD work. His father is the Imam of the Koutoubia Mosque in Marrakech. Eight years ago, with the leadership of the King, Morocco started an Arabic reform focused on training their 45,000 Imams (serving 45,000 mosques – large and small all over the country). While most Imams have memorized the Quran, more than 50 % are not considered to meet the minimum standards and only 2% have a degree in Islamic religion. Our speaker was one of the 1,500 trainers. They have appropriated the equivalent of US $20 million for this reform program, coming from the monarchy, state and members of the mosque. The Imam read a prepared text in English outlining the reform, in which they claim that Morocco is playing the lead global role. There were lots of questions from the visiting “infidels”. Mint tea was served, of course. After this very hospitable gathering, we retired to a lovely dinner at Dar Moha, once the home of designer Pierre Balmain, now a fine Moroccan restaurant in the Old Town.

Dar Moha Traditional Zellij fountain

2 Imam: Islamic leader of congregational prayer

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Returning to Casablanca ‐ October 20

It was a 3 and 1/2 hour drive over mostly level terrain and a good highway. In the area between Marrakech and Casablanca lies the heart of Morocco’s phosphate mining industry, which represents two thirds of the world’s reserves. This is their number one business and export, 50% of which goes to India. With food security reaching crisis proportions around the globe and phosphate the number one ingredient in fertilizer, this production is critical to Morocco. At the same time, it presents a major pollution problem. In Casablanca, we passed the Central Administration of Phosphate.

Throughout our trip, our two guides had told us stories about Morocco. On this final day of motoring, they asked members of our group to tell their stories. One of particular interest was on the development of P‐4 medicine, which represents a predictive, preventative, personalized and participatory approach and a new form of Systems Biology thinking. The systems approach will afford the ability to analyze all your genes at once. In the near future, physicians will collect billions of bytes of information about each individual – genes, blood proteins, cells and historical data. Emerging technologies, including nano‐sized devices, DNA sequencers and new computers, make all of this possible. If only Pharma and doctors will join in the effort!

Our first stop in Casablanca was the Jewish museum (Musee du Judaisme Marocian). Built in 1996 under the auspices of Simon Levy, this is the first, and only museum on the history of Judaism in all of the Islamic countries. Levy is the same donor/activist that restored the synagogue we visited in Fez.

Casablanca is Morocco’s largest and most sophisticated city, combining French and Moroccan influence. In the 7th century, it was no more than a small Berber settlement. However, for strategic and commercial reasons, it was already attracting the attention of foreign powers. In 1469 the town was sacked by the Portuguese who brought wholesale destruction on the city’s privateer ships. Then, in the 18th century, with the sultanate of Mohammed ben Abdallah, Dar el ‐ Beïda (meaning “White House” or “Casablanca” in Spanish), the city acquired new significance with its harbor and sugar, tea and corn markets to the Western world. But it was in the 20th century under the French Protectorate, that Casablanca underwent the most profound change. Today, the streets are wide and well landscaped. We passed the royal palace of the king of Saudi Arabia; he has two other palaces in Morocco! We stopped along the Atlantic Ocean for a quick pizza lunch. Hassan II Mosque

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Our next stop was the Hassan II Mosque. Built between 1987 and 1993, (the king died in 1999), it is the third largest mosque in Islamic countries (behind Mecca). It is partly erected on water to reflect the Quran verse “The throne of God was on water”. The Prayer Hall, three times the size of St. Paul’s Cathedral in London, is the masterpiece of the mosque, covering 20,000 square meters and accommodating 25,000 worshippers: 20,000 men on the main floor and 5,000 women in the hanging mezzanine. It even has a moveable roof which opens the central area to the sky, but no air conditioning.

The Ablution Hall is an architectural jewel, constituting 41 fountains. This mosque has the highest religious minaret in the world at over 660 feet. The cost is estimated at $700 million, with the construction involving 2,500 workers and 10,000 craftsmen. Judith ran into three Cornell students (one manager of women’s crew) who were completing a year‐abroad in Switzerland and sight‐seeing for the week end.

On our way to the hotel, we passed a lovely park of ficus trees and Sacred Heart, the first (1920s) and largest cathedral in Casablanca, which is now closed because of the diminishing population of Christians in Casablanca. There are six small churches still operating in the city. On Hassan II Boulevard (they changed all the French names after the Protectorate), we passed the main square with a statue of the French General Lyautey. Our last stop was the Royal Mansour Meridien, a Starwood hotel, where we spent the night after a festive Farewell Dinner at Rick’s Café (think Humphrey Bogart in the movie Casablanca). Although, there was no Rick’s in WWII Casablanca (the film was made in Hollywood), they are capitalizing on the legend with a charming restaurant and piano bar. We gathered around the TV

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later to hear accounts of Colonel Qaddafi’s death, which we learned had taken place that day in a country not so far from where we were standing, but one which has been very different these past years.

Tarik‐Slamma

We didn’t learn much Arabic on our eventful visit but we did learn enough to say “Bon Voyage” to a great group of fellow travelers, two superb guides/lecturers, and Boujemaa and Noureddine (“Nour”) our bus driver and his ever‐smiling assistant. Royal Air Maroc left Mohammed V’s Terminal 1 on time and arrived in JFK on time, a fitting close to an eventful and thrilling trip visiting the “Splendors of Morocco”.

Rick’s Café Judith of Morocco

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Personal takeaways from Morocco

1. Jewish saga Jews came to Morocco long before the Arabs who arrived in the 7th century. Inscriptions in Hebrew, dating from the Roman period, show that there was a Jewish community at that early time. They played key roles on the north‐south and east‐west trade routes. Thousands of Jews, expelled from Spain in 1492, immigrated to Morocco. The population reached 250,000 by the end of the 20th century but has diminished rapidly since then to 5,000 because of immigration to Israel, Europe and the U.S..

2. French Protectorate – “The best thing that ever happened to Morocco” Obviously, a personal opinion, but the French really organized and unified Morocco in a way that 240 different Berber tribes and various Arabic cultures could never have hoped to accomplish. The country’s infrastructure was modernized, its mineral resources exploited and the most fertile land (what there is of it!) turned over to agriculture. Marshal Hubert Lyautey was made France’s first Resident‐General in Morocco and played a decisive role in the imposition of French rule. He installed the capital at Rabat and worked to further the country’s economic development. He wisely and firmly refused to consider assimilation, the process by which colonies were modeled on the mother country. World War II stoked the Moroccan people’s desire for freedom. In 1942, the Allies arrived in Morocco and President Roosevelt pledged the Sultan his support. Showing a progressively higher profile, Mohammed V, drew a following of young nationals who set up the Independence Party (Istiqlal). The power struggles with Paris lasted almost a decade. In 1951, French authorities supported the rebellion of a Pasha from Marrakech. The reigning Sultan refused to abdicate but the French deposed him in 1953. The royal family was forced into exile but the fight for independence gained momentum. International opinion no longer supported colonial powers, and the United Nations debated the “Moroccan question”. After negotiations with France, the deposed Sultan made his triumphant return from exile as Mohammed V, with Hassan, the heir apparent, at his side. The Protectorate ended in 1956 and in 1958, Tangier and the Spanish enclave were restored to the kingdom. Still, I think the French did a world of good in the 44 years of the Protectorate. The French language is still popular throughout the country and most signage is in French and Arabic; they did change many of the names of streets in the cities.

3. Eating in Morocco We have never eaten, nor have more enjoyed olives than in Morocco: red, black and green – for breakfast, lunch and dinner. We also loved Ramadan soup, a vegetarian puree with chickpeas and lentils which is available for breakfast, lunch and dinner. We had some great couscous, with

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all sorts of meat and fish. Moroccan bread is some of the best. Our food was uniformly excellent, although we avoided “street food”. We found that Moroccans love their sweets, including as a major part of any meal.

4. Mint tea! My favorite drink, preferably served with a glass chock full of fresh mint and lots of sugar. Our traveling comrades quickly divided into two groups: those with and those without sugar. We were part of the “lots of sugar” group. There is a real ceremony in serving tea, and they pour from the steaming pot from up to three feet above the tiny glasses. You can only handle your glass of tea from the very top; it’s that hot.

5. Dynasties Morocco is a country that is unique. It is a richly diverse culture that has been shaped by over 3,000 years of history by ethnic groups whose roots go far back in time, and also by its geographical location with the Atlantic Ocean to the west, sub‐Saharan Africa to the south, Europe to the north and Mediterranean nations to the east. Berber tribes united to create the kingdom of Mauritania in 400 BC. Moussa ibn Nosaïr conquered Morocco in 705 and introduced the country to Islam. Youssef ben Tachfine founded Marrakech and started to expand his Almoravid empire (1062‐1147), followed by the Almohads, the Meridins, Saadines, Alaouites (especially Moulay Ismaïl) and European domination. Throughout all that time, there were empires, dynasties and rulers and sultans. While they still recognize the dynasty as being descended from the Prophet, with the reform of Hassan II, the ruler of the monarchy is now called “King”. He serves as both the country’s secular and spiritual leader.

6. Language The official language is Arabic, which is spoken by almost all Moroccans. French, a vestige of the Protectorate, is also widely used, at least in the larger towns. Only in the last four years have they stopped teaching in French in the schools. It is now taught as just another language. In the south, Berber is widely spoken especially in the rural and mountain areas. English is spoken mostly by those involved in the tourism industry.

7. Religion We learned that a mosque is both a civic and a religious institution. It is simultaneously a place of worship, a university, a tribunal, an inviolable place of asylum and a friendly meeting place. The call to prayer is given by the muezzin five times every day. Morocco’s official religion is the orthodox or Sunni sect of Islam. It is based on the Quran and on the Sunna, in which the words

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and deeds of the prophet Mohammed are recorded. It is this religion, which was introduced in the 7th century that underpins both the country’s law and its faith. Islam is also the unifying force in the daily life of every Moroccan whose duty is to respect the five pillars of Islam. These are profession of faith, the five times daily prayer, ritual alms‐giving, fasting and the pilgrimage to Mecca. The Muslim calendar is based on the lunar year.

8. Shopping in Morocco Shopping in the souks is an experience; the spices, fruits and vegetables are just as colorful as the rugs and scarves. You have to see and smell the meat and fish markets to believe them! Never before had we travelled with a mission: to convert the tower room in Edgemoor to a Moroccan Room, including door, rug, pillows, bedding, wall hangings and a few other accessories. With “skillful” bargaining and cooperative immigration agents, we accomplished our goals – and can’t wait to complete the transition.

9. Did you know?

• Morocco was the first country to congratulate the United States on its independence

• While Morocco co‐founded the Organization of African Unity (OAU), it is no longer a member

• It is very difficult for outsiders to gain citizenship in Morocco but they welcome the return of Moroccan children and ancestors

• In Morocco, there is still much evidence of the Lisbon earthquake in 1755

• When Morocco was invaded by the Arabs and others before that, the Atlantic Ocean was considered the “end of the world” (i.e. “the land of the extreme west” or “where the sun sets”)

• Morocco was the last country in Africa to be colonized by Europeans

• Morocco is the only African Islam country that was never controlled by the Ottoman Empire

• Some think of Morocco as “Europe’s Mexico”

• The “20 February Movement” (Arab Spring) has affected Morocco, and Mohammed VI announced some reforms as early as the middle of March.

• The “Western Sahara question” has proven to be a real capital drain on Morocco, and not everybody accepts that Morocco should keep it because of “historical rights”. Mohammed V agreed to a referendum on the issue25 years ago, which has not yet taken place. While the United Nations is on the ground, the matter remains “under the radar” of the international community.

• In Greek, the word Berber means “barbarian”

• Leo Africanus (born in 1493) wrote a history of Africa, with much interesting information on Morocco, converted to Christianity and worked with Pope Leo X at the Vatican.

• In Morocco, all minarets are square, versus round or other shapes.

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10. Sign off As is our practice, we both take photographs, I take and translate the notes, Judith edits the whole thing and my wonderful Executive Assistant types it and posts it on our website: www.charlieandjudith.com We have relied heavily on DK’s “Eyewitness Travel” Morocco for facts, figures and spellings. Moshe’s lectures and Seddik’s running commentary were invaluable and enlightening. Any errors in factual matters or interpretation are ours alone.

______________________

Charles H. Moore

“SPLENDORS OF MOROCCO” · with Europe and other Arab countries. The economy depends largely on...

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