Antique Dyeing VT2007
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Transcript of Antique Dyeing VT2007
ANTIQUE DYEING
THE PRINCIPLE OF ANTIQUE DYEING
-
garment, 100 % Co, is
treated
first
withPERFIXAN RDPERFIXAN RD
to change
the
affinity
of the
fibre
cotton
fibre
cotton
fibre
in aqueous
solulion
cationized
cotton
fibre
electronegative
load
electropositive
load
in aqueous
solulion
cationic
treatment
PERFIXAN RD
THE PRINCIPLE OF ANTIQUE DYEING
-
pretreated
garment
is
dyed
with
reactive
dyes
under
special
conditions
to get
a ring dyeing
effect
cationized
cotton
fibre
Superficial
cotton
fibre
dyeing
(RING DYEING)
dyeing
with
dyes
(electronegative
charge)
cationized
cellulose
dyestuff
THE PRINCIPLE OF ANTIQUE DYEING
-
to improve
the
special
antique
look
a biofinish
withPERIZYM INDPERIZYM IND
remove
fragments
of dyed
fibres
from
the
surface
of the
garment
-
result
is
a look
which
appear
antique
(used, fade out)
PROCESS STEPS
-
prewash
(optional)
-
precationising
-
reactive
dyeing
+ soaping
-
biofinish
+ enzyme
stop
-
softening
(recommended)
PREWASH
recipe:2g/l
PERLAVIN NIC PERLAVIN NIC (universal washing
agent)
parameters:liquor
ratio
5 : 1 –
10 : 1
(10 : 1)
temperature
80 °Ctime
20 minutes
PREWASH
action:load
drum with
garment
and fill
with
water
add
PERLAVIN NICPERLAVIN NICheat
up to 80 °C (heating
rate 2 °C/min)
treat
20 minutesdrop the
bath
rinse
warm and
cold
for
5 minutesdrop the
bath, centrifuge
-> next
step
precationising
PRECATIONISING
recipe:2 %
PERFIXAN RD PERFIXAN RD ((precationisingprecationising
agentagent))
parameters:liquor
ratio
5 : 1 –
10 : 1
(8 : 1)
temperature
60 °Ctime
20 minutes
PRECATIONISING
action:fill
drum with
warm water
dose
PERFIXAN RDPERFIXAN RDheat
up to 60 °C (heating
rate 2 °C/min)
treat
20 minutesdrop the
bath
rinse
cold
for
5 minutesdrop the
bath, centrifuge
-> next
step
reactive
dyeing
REACTIVE DYEING
recipe:2 g/l
PERILAN VFPERILAN VF
(anti
grease)
25 ml/l caustic
soda
38 °Bé
(32.5 %)x %
reactive
dyes
(vinyl
sulfone) e.g.
CHEMAZOL YELLOW GRCHEMAZOL YELLOW GRCHEMAZOL RED RBNCHEMAZOL RED RBNCHEMAZOL BRILL.BLUE R S/PCHEMAZOL BRILL.BLUE R S/P
parameters:liquor
ratio
5 : 1 –
10 : 1
(8 : 1)
temperature
40 °Ctime
30 minutes
REACTIVE DYEING
action:fill
drum with
water
and heat
it
up to 40 °C
add
caustic
soda
and run
for
5 minutesdose
dissolved
dyes
within
5 minutes
dye 30 minutes
at 40 °C
neutralize
dyebath
with
28 ml/l
acetic
acid
(60 %)treat
10 minutes
then
drop the
bath, centrifuge
->
next
step
soaping
SOAPING
recipe:1.5 g/l
PERLAVIN SRS PERLAVIN SRS ((effectiveeffective
soapingsoaping
agentagent))
parameters:liquor
ratio
5 : 1 –
10 : 1
(8 : 1)
temperature
80 °Ctime
20 minutes
SOAPING
action:fill
drum with
warm water
add
PERLAVIN SRSPERLAVIN SRSheat
up to 80 °C and soap
20 minutes
drop the
bath
and rinse
5 minutes
hot and warm,centrifuge
->
next
step
biofinish
BIOFINISH
recipe:2 g/l
PERISTAL EPERISTAL E
(buffer
pH 4.5 –
5.5)3 %
PERIZYM INDPERIZYM IND
(acid
cellulase
for
bio-finishing)
parameters:liquor
ratio
5 : 1 –
10 : 1 *temperature
50 °Ctime
45 minutes
* in our
trials
we
used
LR 15 : 1 together
with
20 gulf
ballsto improve
the
mechanical
action
BIOFINISH
action:fill
drum with
water* and heat
it
up to 50 °C
add
PERISTAL EPERISTAL E
and run
for
5 minutescheck pH value
(4.5 –
5.5), adjust
if
needed
add
PERIZYM INDPERIZYM IND
and run
45 min** at 50 °C
* the
use
of hard
water
is
recommended
to improvethe
stability
of the
enzyme
** desired
effects
depends
on time and mechanical
action…
BIOFINISH
enzymatic
stop
–
very
important
action:add
2 ml/l caustic
soda
38 °Bé
check pH value
(>
9.0), if
necessary
adjust
itrun
for
10 minutes, then
drop the
bath
rinse
two
times
warm at 40 °C for
5 minutesrinse
cold, neutralize
with
1 ml/l acetic
acid
60 %
-> next
step
softening
SOFTENING
recipe:2 %
PERISOFT NANOPERISOFT NANO
(excellent
softener)
or
2 % PERISOFT J 23PERISOFT J 23
(well-priced
softener)
pH 5 –
6 with
acetic
acid
parameters:liquor
ratio
5 : 1 –
10 : 1
(8 : 1)
temperature
40 °Ctime
20 minutes
SOFTENING
action:use
last rinsing
bath
(acidified, pH 5 –
6)
add
PERISOFT NANOPERISOFT NANO
or
PERISOFT J 23PERISOFT J 23heat
up to 40 °C
run
for
20 minutesdrop the
bath
centrifugetumble
dry
LAB RESULTS
without
biofinish
with
biofinish
LAB RESULTS
without
biofinish
with
biofinish
LAB RESULTS
without
biofinish
with
biofinish
LEVEL OF FASTNESSES
-
fastness
to washing
(60 °C), DIN EN ISO 105-C01
diacetatecottonpolyamid
polyesterpolyacrylwool
LEVEL OF FASTNESSES
-
fastness
to rubbing, DIN EN ISO 105-X12
dry
wet
SUMMARY
antique
dyeing
could
be
an interesting
method
to dye and finish garments
giving
them
a characteristic
look
in combination
with
good fastnesses
(washing
and rubbing)
Textilchemie Dr. Petry GmbHFerdinand-Lassalle-Straße 5772770 ReutlingenGermanyTel.:
+49 7121 9589-0Fax:
+49 7121 [email protected]