Şanlıurfa Citadel -...

262 A G U I D E T O S O U T H E A S T E R N A N A T O L I A

Şanlıurfa Citadel

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The province of Şanlıurfa is located in the Middle Euphrates region of Southeastern Anatolia,and was one of the most important junctions on the historic Silk Road. Şanlıurfa has beensettled by many civilizations over the millennia. Dating back to around 11,500 BC, this is oneof the most important centers of human history. Different faiths have always coexisted inŞanlıurfa, known as a city of prophets. Much of the city is covered in plateaus. MountKaracadağ to the northeast of the city is the highest point in the province. The surroundingregions are dotted with cisterns, artificial lakes and caves. The Euphrates is the lifeblood of theregion. Şanlıurfa is the center of the Southeastern Anatolia Project (GAP), one of Turkey’s mostambitious projects. The earliest recorded name of the city is Urhay, its Aramean appellation.Şanlıurfa was frequently occupied throughout its history. The city was annexed by the Ottomansin the 16th century, but was occupied by the French in the aftermath of WWI. The area wasemancipated in 1920, and was declared a province in 1926. In 1984, the Grand NationalAssembly of Turkey awarded the city the honorific epithet of ‘Şanlı’, meaning ‘Glorious’. Whilethe local economy is based mainly on agriculture and livestock breeding, the industrial andtourism sectors are rapidly developing.


fianl›urfa at a Glance

A Centre of ReligionŞanlıurfa is renowned as a major center of religion, and a city ofprophets. Legend has it that Abraham, a prophet in Judaism,Christianity and Islam, was born in the city. According to localtradition, King Nimrod ordered Abraham to be burned to death for hisrefusal of idolatry. Many other tales related to the lives of the prophetsLot, Jacob, Job, Elisha, Jethro and Moses are told in the city, which issaid to be the final resting place of Job, Rahime Hatun and Elisha.

Harran’s traditional conical houses

Vegetation andanimal lifeŞanlıurfa has very hot, drysummers, resulting in steppevegetation. Briefly nourished bythe spring showers, the greenfoliage soon dries out with theapproach of summer. Halfeti isfamous for its black roses. Theprovince is home to gazelles andthe critically endangered baldibis, a protected species.

Rızvaniye Mosque and Madrasa


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Provincial Population: 1,456,956 according to the 2000 census

City Center Population: 385,588Altitude: 518 meters above sea level

Area: 18,584 square kilometersDistricts and Villages: 10 districts, 1080 villages

Neighboring Provinces: Gaziantep to the west, Ad›yaman to the northwest,

Diyarbak›r to the northeast, Mardin to the east

ID CARD

Landscape and ClimateŞanlıurfa is located on the southern slopes of the middle of theSoutheastern Taurus mountain range. The mountainous, northernsections of the city slope down towards the wide plains to the south.Şanlıurfa’s plains are dotted with hills and peaks. From west to east,the major plains in the province are the Suruç, Harran, Viranşehir,Ceylanpınar, Halfeti, Bozova and Hilvan plains. The region has chalkysoil and a continental climate marked by very hot, dry summers andwarm, rainy winters. Due to the dry climate, daily and annualtemperatures vary greatly.

Social Fabric andLanguagesHarran University has had aprofound impact on the socialand cultural environment of thecity. The city center populationmainly consists of Türkmen andArab Turks, while the outskirtsare largely settled by KurdishTurks who have left theirvillages. Both Arabic andKurdish are widely spoken in theregion.

Inns, Marketsand BazaarsŞanlıurfa boasts manyhistoric inns, markets andbazaars, as well as elevenlarge caravanserais datingfrom the Ottoman era.

Rivers and DamsThe Euphrates is the lifeblood ofthe region, but there are manyother small rivers and artificiallakes in the province. TheAtatürk Dam is one of the mostimportant investments inŞanlıurfa.



The Euphrates



Water is a critical resource in Şanlıurfa.For hundreds of years, its parched landsthirsted for water and irrigation. The damsbuilt within the framework of GAP (theSoutheastern Anatolia Project) have had aprofound impact on the entire region,including Şanlıurfa. With the completionof the new dams currently underconstruction, Şanlıurfa’s recently irrigatedlands will continue to grow and develop.

Atatürk DamThe Atatürk Dam, thecornerstone of theSoutheastern Anatolia Project,is built over the Euphratesnear Bozova. The damprovides the region withhydroelectric power, irrigationand drinking water. The damhas the largest reservoir inTurkey, and is one of thehighest and largest rock-filleddams in the world.

Birecik DamLocated eight kilometers fromBirecik and thirty kilometersfrom the Syrian border, theBirecik Dam generateshydroelectric power and wasbuilt as a part of the BorderEuphrates Project.

Hac› H›d›r DamLocated 13 km from Siverek,the dam over the Hacı HıdırRiver provides irrigationwater for 2080 hectares ofland.

�WaterTunnelsThe tunnels were built to carrywater from the Atatürk Damreservoir to the areas offarmland. The two tunnels runparallel to each other and endfive kilometers northeast ofŞanlıurfa. At 26.4 kilometerslong and 7.62 meters wide, theŞanlıurfa Tunnels are thelargest irrigation tunnels inthe world.

Water has always beena valuable resource in

the region.

Atatürk Dam

Birecik Dam

fianl›urfa and Water



Water SportsSince 1995, the GAP Regional DevelopmentAdministration has organized an annual WaterSports Festival held on September 22-23 in Bozovaon the Atatürk Reservoir.

Water and theLocal EconomyŞanlıurfa has changeddramatically as a result of theGAP initiatives, with rapiddevelopments in the fields ofagriculture, industry andtourism. In 1995, there were atotal of 59 industrial businessesin the region; by 2004, thisfigure had reached 333.Şanlıurfa is a major producer ofwheat, barley, red lentils,pistachios, grapes and sesame.Thanks to the GAP irrigationschemes, the region has seenimportant developments in itscotton industry, greenhouseindustry and farming undercover.



HalfetiSet on the banks of the Euphrates, Halfeti’s history dates backsome 3000 years. In 1954, the town became a district ofŞanlıurfa province. With the completion of the Birecik Dam,much of the region was inundated by the waters of the newreservoir. Set on the opposite bank of the Euphrates, Rumkalehas become the symbol of Halfeti. Fruits and vegetablesincluding bananas, grapefruit and dates flourish in the region’sMediterranean climate. Over the past century, Halfeti hasexperienced tremendous cultural growth, and is renowned forits beautiful houses, mansions, gardens, lifestyle, river cultureand unique black roses.

The Black Roseof HalfetiHalfeti is famous for its blackroses (actually very dark red)that only grow in this particularpart of the world. The scentedroses grow on a 1-1.5-meterrosebush that blooms in thespring and summer. The flowersmeasure 6-7 centimeters indiameter.

Set on the banks of theEuphrates, part of Halfetiwas submerged under thewaters of the BirecikDam. With its unusualgeography and uniqueculture, the area isbecoming increasinglypopular as a touristdestination.



Halfeti housesHalfeti has a completely different landscape andgeography to the other settlements in the region. Thetown is shaped like a bowl on the steep hillsidessloping down to the Euphrates. The houses and streetsof Halfeti have been carefully planned to suit theregion’s steep, rocky landscape. Halfeti’s flat-roofedstone houses are built parallel to the Euphrates andoften have bay windows where the residents can sitand watch the river flow by.Most of the houses are two stories tall, although someof the houses built on sloping plots also have a partialbasement that is used a stable, larder, pantry or storagearea. The houses are usually entered by a garden gate.The ground floors of the larger houses are reserved forservants’ quarters and guestrooms. The area boastsmany stone quarries; as a result, most Halfeti buildingsare constructed from natural stone and ‘Bağdadi’mortar. The masonry and structure of the houses ischaracteristic of Southeastern Anatolia.

Bey Kona¤›Built in 1910, the Hamid Beymansion was constructed from soft‘havara’ or Halfeti stone. The two-story selamlık or public area has astable, toilet and servants’ quarterson the ground floor. The upper levelwas reserved for male guests. Adouble iwan to the south of theselamlık leads to the harem, orprivate family area. The harem has atraditional layout with a ‘hayat’courtyard surrounded by rooms. Anornamental pool stands in the middleof the courtyard.

Kanneci Kona¤›Dating from the early 20th century,the mansion consists of a selamlıkand harem. The house has a largecourtyard and a particularlybeautiful entrance. While the mainstructure is built entirely from local‘havara’ stone, the decorations andornamentations are made of wood.

Hamaml› EvThe house is known as the ‘HamamlıEv’ after its Turkish bath or ‘hamam’.According to an inscription in themain room, it is the oldest house inthe area. The house has been restoredand is open to the public.

Important housesHalfeti boasts many uniquehouses. The Bey Konağı andKanneci Konağı mansions are ofparticular note.

A Halfeti house overlookingthe Euphrates (top); A close-up view of Kanneci Konağı’sexterior (above right) andinterior walls (other photos).



Protected speciesBald IbisBirecik and its surroundingsare a habitat of the criticallyendangered Bald Ibis. Bald ibismate for life, reaching maturitywhen around five years old.Their average lifespan is about25-30 years. The birds come toBirecik in February and beginto nest around the middle ofMay. After breeding andrearing their young, they leaveBirecik around July. The baldibis is thought to nest inBirecik because of the highlevels of calcite in the rocks,which is thought to help themto reproduce. A breedingstation was established in 1972by the General Directorate ofForestry to protect theendangered birds. The captivebirds are fed lean meat, gratedcarrots, boiled eggs and mixedfeed. A group of birds were setfree in 2007 in the hope ofpromoting natural migratorybehavior.

GazellesThe region’s gazelles live in theCeylanpınar State Farm. Theirnumbers are constantly on therise.

A youngstudent’s

drawing of abald ibis.



Ceylanp›nar State FarmThe Ceylanpınar State Farm was established in1943 to provide farmers with high qualityseedlings, saplings and breeding stock. The1,752,259-decare farm provides the majority of

seeds and breeding stock used in the GAPregion. In addition to growing agriculturalproducts and raising livestock, the farm serves asa gazelle reserve.

Most of thelocalpopulation isemployed bythe farm, whichraises bothagriculturalproducts andlivestock.



fianl›urfa houses and mansionsŞanlıurfa has over 200 historic houses and mansions. Traditional Şanlıurfahouses consist of a public area known as the ‘oda’ and a private area for thefamily known as the harem. The ground floor rooms have no windows, and thewindows of the upper floors face onto the inner courtyard rather than onto thestreet. The ‘oda’ consists of a courtyard, one or two rooms, an iwan, a ‘develik’or stable for the guests’ animals and a toilet. The harem is usually larger than the‘oda’ section. A marble ornamental pool stands at the center of the maincourtyard known as the ‘hayat’. Compartments known as ‘zerzembe’ locatedunder the iwans or rooms are used as larders. Birdhouses known as ‘kuştakaları’ can often be seen high up on the walls near the roofs. Şanlıurfa has 200houses and mansions that are registered historic buildings.

The houses have many niches(far left and above left). Theinterior walls of the housefacing onto the courtyard aredecorated with elaboratestone carvings including plantand geometric motifs,hexagons, octagons androsettes (left).



� Mahmud Nedim EfendiMansion

� Küçük Hacı MustafaHacıkamiloğlu Mansion

� Sakıb'ın Köşkü

� Akçarlar House (HarranUniversity House of Culture)

� Akyüzler House� Hacı Hafızlar House (State

Gallery of Fine Arts)

� Hacı İmam Demirkol House� Hacıbanlar House� Kürkçüzâde Halil Hafız House� TBMM House (Şahap Bakır

House / Arabizade ReşitEfendi House)

Important historic houses and mansions in fianl›urfa

Şanlıurfa boasts many well-preserved historic houses and

streets. This narrow street ispaved with basalt slabs and linedwith high-walled buildings. Only

the houses’ bay windows arevisible from the street. Şanlıurfa

streets often feature barrel-vaulted passages known as

‘kabaltı’. Measuring 5-15 meterslong and no more than 2.5

meters wide, ‘kabaltı’ are uniquetunnels that branch off from the

main road and often passdirectly under the houses.

CourtyardThe main entrance opens ontoa vaulted corridor leading tothe inner courtyard. Thesquare or rectangularcourtyards usually feature afountain or basin, and aresurrounded by service rooms.Stone steps lead from thecourtyard to the ‘gezenek’, anelevated walkway. The roomsare either accessed from thegezenek or a corridor knownas a ‘sofa’.



Inns, markets andbazaarsŞanlıurfa is home to many well-preserved historic bazaars and‘bedesten’ - a type of covered bazaar that usually sellsvaluable items. Many Ottoman inns, bedesten and bazaars canstill be seen in the city, mostly in the region of Gümrük Han,the historic center of trade and commerce. Kazaz Pazar

(Bedesten)P›narbafl› Located immediately to thesouth of Gümrük Han, thebazaar is thought to havebeen built in 1562 by BehramPasha. A document dated1740 refers to the building asthe Bezzazistan and statesthat it had been restored. Thebarrel-vaulted structure isaligned on an east-westdirection and has four domes.Kazaz Pazarı has four doorsleading to the Han Önü,Sipahi, Pamukçu andGümrük Han bazaars. Theshops lining the bazaar usedto stand one meter higherthan the ground, but werelowered during a restorationin 1988. The building wasagain restored in 1999. Thisis one of the best-preservedbazaars in Anatolia.

� Sipahi PazarWest of Gümrük Han, Afla¤›Çarfl›This covered bazaar wasbuilt in 1562 by BehramPasha at the same time as theGümrük Han, and may haveoriginally served as a stablefor visitors to the GümrükHan. The building wasrestored in 1997, andcurrently functions as acarpet and kilim bazaar.

Millet HanOne of the largest inns inTurkey. Before thecaravanserai route came asfar as the city, travelerswould stay at this inn on theoutskirts. The inn is currentlybeing restored by theGovernorship of Şanlıurfa.When the restoration iscomplete, the building willhouse Turkey’s largestarcheological museum.



Hac› Kamil HanCentral fianl›urfaBuilt in 1823, Hacı Kamil Hanis a small but characteristicexample of Şanlıurfa Ottomaninn architecture. The squarecourtyard is surrounded byshops, and the rooms on theupper level open onto aportico. The reinforcedconcrete ablution fountain is arecent addition. The originalfountain flowed with waterfrom the Pool of Abraham.Today, the inn is a businesspremises.

Gümrük HanNear Haflimiye Meydan›, P›narbafl› The inn was built by BehramPasha in 1562 during the reign ofthe Ottoman Sultan Süleyman theMagnificent. This is the mostimpressive and monumental inn inthe city. The square courtyard issurrounded by shops and the innrooms on the second floor openonto porticos. There is a masjidabove the iwan at the entrance.The second door opens onto thebedesten to the south of thecourtyard. The structure wasrestored between 2001 and 2006.Today, the rooms on the upperlevel house tailors’ workshops, andthe courtyard is filled withteahouses.

Known locally as ‘kürsü’, thesestools are used throughout

Southeastern Anatolia.



Mevlid-i HalilMosque


Like the other cities in the region,Şanlıurfa is located at an importantcrossroads between Mesopotamia andAnatolia. Since the dawn of history,the area has been settled by a vastrange of cultures and civilizations.Established around 2500 BC, thekingdom of Ebla was the first tohold sway over the region. Theywere followed by the Hurri-Mitanni, who ruled the regionuntil the Aegean Migrations inthe 12th century BC. In thebeginning of the first millenniumBC, the area was in the hands ofthe powerful Neo-Assyrian state.From the middle of the 7th centuryBC, the Persians held sway, despiteoccasional periods of Urartu rule. Aftera period of Macedonian rule followedby the death of Alexander the Great,the region became part of the SeleucidKingdom. Taking advantage of apower vacuum in the middle of the

2nd century BC, the Arameansestablished the Abgar dynasty centeredat Edessa. Later renamed the OsroheneKingdom, this was the first communityin the region to adopt Christianity.Long serving as a barrier state between

the Romans and Parthians, thekingdom finally fell to theRomans in 117. Under theRomans, the region was ruled asa military colonia. In 395, Edessabecame a part of the ByzantineEmpire, and was an importantcenter of Christianity. The citylater changed hands back and

forth among the Arabs, Persians,Crusaders and Turks. In 1516, it wasannexed by the Ottoman Empire.Following the Turkish War ofIndependence, Şanlıurfa was declareda province of Turkey in 1926. It waslater awarded the title ‘Şanlı’ inrecognition of its resistance against theFrench military occupation followingWWI.

The History of fianl›urfa

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Prehistoric fianl›urfaTo date, 400 prehistoric settlements have beenidentified in the region, 30 of which havebeen excavated. Many stone tools dating fromthe Paleolithic Era have been uncovered inand around Birecik. Prehistoric settlementssuch as those at Göbekli Tepe, Nevali Çori

and Mezraa Teleilat serve as a window on thecultural developments in the between fromthe establishment of the first villages to therise of the first kingdoms. Artifacts uncoveredduring the excavations are on display at theŞanlıurfa Museum.

Göbekli Tepe15 km northeast offianl›urfa, on the highestpoint of an elongated ridgein the village of Örencik The remarkable findings atGöbekli Tepe suggest that itwas once an important sacredsite and sanctuary. Themonumental cult complex isthought to date from 10,500-8,600 BC, and was probablythe largest sacred site in theregion during the NeolithicAge. Hunter-gatherersestablished the complex as aplace of communal worship.The site also serves as afascinating window on thetransition to agriculture.Excavations at the site beganin 1995, revealing templestructures that seem to havebeen deliberately buried inthe Neolithic Age. Around 44T-shaped pillars measuringaround 1.5 meters tall havebeen uncovered. A number ofthese half-buried pillars aremonumental in size,measuring up to 5 meters talland weighing around 10 tons.Many of the monumentalpillars feature reliefs ofsnakes, foxes, bulls, wild boarand cranes. One fascinatingrelief depicts human arms, afox and abstract pictograms.Excavations continue to beconducted under the directionof Prof. Klaus Schmidt of theGerman ArchaeologicalInstitute. Some of the

pillars uncoveredat theexcavations atGöbekli Tepe(above). Thepillars areornamented withanimal reliefsincluding wildducks, wild boarand foxes (left).



Nevali ÇoriNear the village of Kantarain the Hilvan district Neolithic, Copper Age andEarly Bronze Age levels havebeen uncovered at thetumulus. The site boasts astunning Neolithic templewith two pillars ornamentedwith stylized human figures.The capitals of the pillars areT-shaped, much like themonumental pillars found atGöbekli Tepe. Statues andreliefs of wild animals suchas bears, wolves, foxes,turtles, snakes and birds havebeen uncovered. Most of thehuman figures are male. Thestatues and reliefs suggestthat the site was used as atemple.

Mezraa TeleilatImmediately to the west ofthe village of Mezraa, 5 kmsouth of BirecikExcavations have beenconducted since 1999 at thetumulus, which covers anarea measuring around sevenhectares. The first settlementis thought to date fromaround 8000 BC, during thePre-Pottery Neolithic Age.The area was subsequentlycontinuously settled untilaround 5200 BC. Teleilat wasabandoned during the HalafPeriod, and lay deserted forsome 5500 years. Then, nearthe beginning of the Iron Age,the area was reestablished asa rural palace complex.Another large palace complexwas built by the Neo-Assyrians.

A model of thetemple complexat Göbekli Tepe

(right).

The ongoing excavations atGöbekli Tepe are beingconducted under the direction ofProf. Klaus Schmidt of theGerman Archaeological Institute.



Şanlıurfa boasts the ruins of many importantpagan sites, but it was also the first region tobe ruled by a Christian kingdom. Takingadvantage of a power vacuum in the Şanlıurfaregion in 130 BC, the Arameans establishedthe Abgar dynasty centered at Edessa. In thebeginning of the 3rd century, under Abgar IX,Christianity was adopted as the state religionand spread among the local population. Laterrenamed the Osrohene Kingdom, theprincipality long served as a barrier state

between the Romans and Parthians, finallyfalling to the Romans in 117. After thedivision of the Roman Empire in 395, theregion became a part of the ByzantineEmpire, and was one of the first major centersof Christianity. Edessa is considered thebirthplace of Syriac Christian literature, andwas home to the renowned School of Edessa,which experienced a golden age in the 4thand 5th century.

Pagan faiths and Christianity

Tella MartyrionViranflehir Located in the middle of anecropolis, this is one of thelargest Byzantine Christianstructures in the region. Themonument is thought to havebeen built in the 4th or 5thcentury and to be dedicated toan important local saint. Onetheory is that this is the site ofthe Monastery of Fsiltha andburial place of JacobusBaradaeus. Reputedly born inViranşehir, Jacobus Baradaeusunited the Monophysite SyriacChristians and becamemetropolitan bishop withecumenical authority. He died inEgypt in 578 and his remainswere brought to Viranşehir in622. The octagonal buildingonce had a basalt domesupported by pillars. The domeis known to have survived ingood condition until thebeginning of the 20th century,but only one pillar remainsstanding today. Excavations inthe surrounding areas haveuncovered rich mosaics.

Şanlıurfa’s GrandMosque was constructedin 1170-1175 in place ofa 5th century church. Itis also known as the RedChurch due to its manyred marble colums. Thechurch’s octagonal belltower now serves as themosque’s minaret andclock tower.

SogmatarSogmatar was a paganreligious center. To the west ofthe Sacred Hill are the ruins ofseven temples dedicated to theplanets. Sogmatar is bestknown as the seat of theBabylonian pagan beliefsystems that worshipped themoon, sun and planets. Legendhas it that Jethro gave Moseshis rod at Sogmatar.



In the aftermath of theFirst Crusade, theFrankish Crusader CountBaldwin captured Urfa,and established the Countyof Edessa. The Crusader

state went on to rule theregion for 48 years. Baldwinstrengthened the city’sfortifying walls and defenses.When Baldwin became king ofJerusalem in 1100, his cousinBaldwin II became the secondcount in his stead. TheCrusaders were continually atwar with the Arab, Turkishand Armenian states. Theyannexed Suruç and Birecik,and laid siege to Harran andAleppo. Şanlıurfa wasblockaded on many occasionsduring this period, and fellinto a rapid decline as a resultof famine and massacres. As aresult, Baldwin II moved toTurbessel (modern Tilbeşar).In 1118, he took his uncle’splace as King of Jerusalemand was replaced by JoscelinI. The Crusader state’s powersoon began to wane.Following the deaths of bothBaldwin II and Joscelin inquick succession, Joscelin IItook the throne in 1131.Weakened by conflicts amongthe Crusaders, Urfa fell to theZengi in 1144. In the face ofrelentless Turkish attacks, theCrusaders sold six fortressesin Turbessel, Birecik, Samsatand Gaziantep to theByzantines. The Crusaderstate came to a complete endwhen Saladin took Urfa,Suruç and Nusaybin in 1182,and Harran in 1183.

The County of Edessa �

King Abgar and theMandylionAccording to legend, King Abgar wassuffering from an incurable illnessand, having heard of Jesus’ powerand miracles, invited him to Edessa.Unable to grant the king’s wish, Jesusinstead sent him a piece of cloth thathe had pressed to his face, leavingbehind a miraculous image. KingAbgar was healed, and the Image ofEdessa became renowned throughoutthe world. According to some sources,

the cloth was moved to Constantinople, and two copies weremade. Reputed to be the first ‘icon’ orimage of Jesus Christ, the Mandylion isstored in the Matilda chapel in theVatican (above). A 10th-century paintingdepicting the miracle (right).

During the MiddleAges, eight Crusadeswere held to try towrest Jerusalem andother holy sites fromIslamic rule. Thesoldiers’ uniforms wereemblazoned with across on the front thatsymbolized their oath(above). The hills ofBirecik (below).



The Pool of Abraham and its shoresAfter the people of Şanlıurfa adopted Islam,Islamic structures such as mosques, masjidsand madrasas as well as cemeteries andhouses were built around the Pool ofAbraham, also known as Lake Halil-ürRahman or Balıklı Göl (Fish Lake). The sights

around the Pool of Abraham make up theheart of the city, and are some of the mostimportant attractions in Şanlıurfa. The shoresof the lake are not only popular with touristsbut also with the locals, who come here torelax and socialize.

� Halil-ürRahmanMosque

� R›zvaniyeMadrasa

� Mevlid-iHalilMosque

� TheBirthplace ofAbraham

� Halil-ürRahmanMadrasa

Halil-ür RahmanMosque The mosque was built in 1211 bythe Ayyubid ruler EşrefMuzafferüddin Musa. A cut stoneminaret with a square trunkstands at the southeastern cornerof the mosque.

The Pools of Abraham andAyn Zeliha

According to legend, the Pool of Abraham sprangup to save the prophet Abraham who had been

sentenced to burn to death by King Nimrod. Thenearby Pool of Ayn Zeliha similarly saved

Nimrod’s daughter, sentenced to death by herfather for believing in Abraham.



R›zvaniyeMosque

The mosque was built in 1736beside the Pool of Abraham bygovernor Rızvan Ahmet Pasha

and is best known for its ornatewooden door.

R›zvaniye Madrasa The madrasa consists of rooms that openonto porticos surrounding the courtyardof the Rızvaniye Mosque. The building is

constructed from ashlar. Apart from thedomed classroom masjid, all the rooms

have barrel-vaulted roofs.



R›zvaniyeMosque The northern bank of the Pool ofAbrahamThe mosque was built in 1736 bythe Governor of Urfa RızvanAhmet Pasha. Three sides of thecourtyard are lined withmadrasa rooms. The squarestructure has three domes alongthe wall of the mihrab. Thethree-arched narthex is alsocapped by a dome. The woodendoor is covered in organicpatterns. The mosque is alsoknown locally as the Zülumiye orRıdvaniye Mosque.

Halil-ür RahmanMosque The southwest corner of thePool of AbrahamAn inscription on the west side ofthe minaret states that themosque was built in 1211 underthe Ayyubid ruler EşrefMuzafferüddin Musa. Themosque complex consists of amadrasa and cemetery and isreputed to be the site whereAbraham was to be burned. Themosque is also known locally asthe Döşeme or Makam Mosque.

Some sources state that it wasbuilt on top of the remains of aByzantine church dedicated tothe Virgin Mary. The badlydamaged mosque was extensivelyrestored in 1810. The mosque

has a roughly square plan, withthree naves parallel to themihrab. The horizontal beams onthe minaret are beautifullyornamented. The column capitalsfeature acanthus ornaments inthe Byzantine style.

R›zvaniyeMadrasa The courtyard of the R›zvaniyeMosqueAn inscription on the domedmasjid to the north of thecourtyard states that the

madrasa and mosque were bothbuilt in 1736 by the Governor ofUrfa, Rızvan Ahmet Pasha. Therooms open onto porticos. Thekitchen is in the northwesterncorner, and the bathroom and

Sightseeing around the Pool ofAbraham

Mevlid-i Halil Mosque

Rızvaniye Mosque

Rızvaniye Madrasa

Halil-ürRahmanMosque



toilets are in the northeasterncorner. The madrasa wasrestored from 1992-1993.

Mevlid-i HalilMosqueNext to the cave where Abrahamwas bornThis small mosque was builtduring the Ottoman Periodand is dedicated toAbraham. A large mosquewith two minarets was builtnext door in 1986 toaccommodate the largenumber of visitors.

Halil-ür RahmanMadrasaThe western bank of the Pool ofAbrahamAlthough it is not clear exactlywhen or by whom the mosquewas built, it is known to datefrom the Ottoman Period. The L-shaped structure is built ofashlar, and is also known locallyas the Makam-ı Cedd-ül Enbiya.The madrasa consists of a large,barrel-vaulted room with a halfdome as well as an iwan next tothe mosque. A flight of stepsleads to several rooms that openonto a portico. According to an

inscription, the madrasa wasrestored in 1775.

The cave whereAbraham wasborn100 meters east of the Pools ofAbraham and Ayn ZelihaLegend has it that Abrahamwas born in this cave andlived here until the age ofseven. The holy water foundin the cave is said to heal awide range of ailments.

The Pools ofAbraham andAyn Zeliha Synonymous with the city ofŞanlıurfa, the Pool ofAbraham is said to mark thespot where the prophet landedwhen was thrown into aburning pyre. According tolegend, King Nimrodsentenced Abraham to bethrown from the hill where thecitadel now stands into aburning pyre for refusing

idolatry and promotingmonotheism. As Abraham wasflung into the fire, God is saidto have turned the flames intoa flowing stream and the logsinto fish. Abraham landed,unharmed, in a rose garden.The Pool of Abraham is saidto mark the place whereAbraham fell. The nearbyPool of Ayn Zeliha is believedby some to be the spot whereNimrod’s daughter, sentencedto death by her father forbelieving in Abraham, wassimilarly saved by God.

The Cave andWell of JobThe cave where Job, thesymbol of the virtue ofpatience, suffered for sevenlong years, and the well inwhose holy waters he bathedand was healed are located inthe Şanlıurfa neighborhoodknown as Eyyüb Peygamber(Prophet Job). In 460, BishopNona is said to havediscovered that patientssuffering from leprosy werecured when washed in thecave’s healing waters, and alepers’ sanatorium wasestablished here. Known asHamam, the sanatorium wascarved into the rocks to thewest of the well.Another legend about the wellof Job concerns themandylion, a cloth imprintedwith the image of the face ofJesus that was sent to theOsrohene King Abgar. Avisitor to the city is said tohave stolen the cloth, placed itin his pocket, and gone tospend the night at the KosmasMonastery. In the middle ofthe night, the cloth began toemit a mysterious light. Afraidthat he would be caught andsentenced to death, the thiefthrew the cloth into the well ofJob, which was filled with theawesome light. The stolenmandylion was therebydiscovered, removed from thewell and restored to themonastery.

The Pool of Abraham is150 meters long, while thesmaller Pool of Ayn Zelihais 50 meters long. Bothare 30 meters wide, andare filled with carp thatare considered sacred bythe locals. It is forbiddento catch, eat or evendisturb the fish.

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HarranA short distance from Şanlıurfa, Harran hasbeen settled continuously since around6000 BC. Throughout history,Harran has been an importantcenter of trade and agriculture inthe region. According to onestory, Harran was the first cityestablished after the flood byCanaan, one of Noah’sgrandsons. Written sources,including the Ebla tablets, statethat the city was a hub for all thecivilizations in the nearby regions. Theskies of Harran are extremely clear, and theancient population is known to have

worshipped the Moon and the Sun gods. Forexample, the Moon and Sun are shown

as witnesses to a treaty between theHittites and the Mitanni. Even

after Urfa adopted Christianity,the people of Harran maintainedtheir pagan beliefs. Harran wasalso center of learning andphilosophy. The temple of Sin

established around 2000 BC wasan important center of astrology.

A village during the OttomanEmpire, Harran was declared a district

of Şanlıurfa in 1987.

� HarranFortress and CityWallsThe fortress has pre-Islamic,Islamic and 12th centurysections. The name of theNumeyri leader Meni togetherwith the date 1059 is inscribed ona door on the eastern wall.Twelve-sided towers stand on allfour corners. Harran was oncesurrounded by city walls made ofashlar masonry. Today, only afew parts of the wall and theAleppo Gate remain standing.

Harran TumulusThe 22-meter tumulus is locatedin the center of Harran.Excavations show that the areawas settled from 3000 BCthrough to the 13th century.

Temple of SinThe location of the temple to themoon god, Sin, has never beenprecisely identified, and ourknowledge is based solely onwritten records. The Nabonidpillar currently on display at theŞanlıurfa Museum is thought tobe connected to the widespreadworship of the moon and sun inthe region around the 5th centuryBC.

�� Grand (Ulu)MosqueLocated on the northeasternfoothills of the Harran Tumulus,the mosque was built from 744-750by the Ummayad leader Mervan II.It is referred to as the Cami-elFirdevs, Cennet Camii, and CumaCamii in some sources. Once thelargest mosque in Anatolia, this isalso oldest piece of survivingIslamic architecture in Turkey andhad the richest stoneornamentation. Today, only theqibla wall, mihrab, an arch, asquare minaret, plus the easternwall and its inscriptions remainstanding.

Harran SchoolThe Harran School was animportant seat of Islamicscholarship between the 8th and10th centuries. Sadly, thestructure has not survived. Whilethe tower is purported by some tohave been used as an observatory,it is in fact the minaret of theGrand Mosque.

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Harran HousesHarran houses, known as‘beehives’, are fascinatingconical structures mostlyfound in the southernsections of the district. Thehouses are 150-200 yearsold, are constructed frombricks collected from theruins and are built over theremains of the ancient city.The tradition of buildingdomed houses is thought todate back as far as 6000BC.

The houses are cool in thesummer and warm in thewinter. In 1979, the regionwas declared a protectedurban and archeologicalzone.


293S I G H T S E E I N G I N fi A N L I U R F A

Museumsfianl›urfa Museum

Mosques (Camii)Eski Ömeriye MosqueGrand (Ulu) Mosque andMinaret (Clock tower)Kad›o¤lu MosqueNimetullah (Ak) MosqueCircis Peygamber(Peygamberler) MosqueF›rf›rl› MosqueSelahaddin EyyübiMosqueYusuf Pasha MosqueGrand (Ulu or Cami-iKebir) Mosque

Mausoleums (Türbe)The Mausoleum of SeyyidHac› Ali, son of SeyyidMaksudThe Mausoleum of SheikhMes’ud The Mausoleum andMosque of Sheikh Müslim

MadrasasEyyübi Madrasa -Nakibzade Hac› ‹brahimEfendi Madrasa

Churches (Kilise) andMonasteriesThe Church of St. Peterand St. Paul (Reji)Deyr Yakub MonasteryÇardak Monastery

Fortresses (Kale)fianl›urfa Citadel andWalls

Inns (Han)Mençek Inn Barutçu InnSamsat Kap›s› InnTopçu (fiehbenderiye) Inn

CaravanseraiÇarmelik (BüyükhanKöyü) Caravanserai andMosqueTitrifl CaravanseraiM›rbi (Ilgar) Caravanserai

BridgesKarakoyun (Jüstinyen)Aqueduct H›zmal› Bridge Millet Bridge Samsat (Eski) Bridge

Bazaars (Pazar) andMarkets (Çarfl›)Eski Kuyumcu BazaarK›nac› BazaarPamukçu BazaarHüseyniye BazaarKasaplar MarketKavafhane MarketBasmahane

Fountains (Çeflme)Emencekzade Fountain Firuz Bey FountainHekim Dede FountainSheikh Safvet FountainMustafa Kemal PashaFountain

Mansions (Konak)and Houses (Ev)Mahmud Nedim EfendiMansionKüçük Hac› MustafaHac›kamilo¤lu MansionSak›b'›n Köflkü Akçarlar House (HarranUniversity House ofCulture) Akyüzler House Hac› Haf›zlar House (StateGallery of Fine Arts) Hac› ‹mam DemirkolHouseHac›banlar HouseKürkçüzâde Halil Haf›zHouseTBMM House (fiahapBak›r House / ArabizadeReflit Efendi House)

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fianl›urfaMuseumÇaml›k Caddesi, fiehitlikAssyrian, Babylonian and Hittiteartifacts are exhibited in the firstroom on the ground floor. Thesecond and third rooms containNeolithic, Copper Age and EarlyBronze Age works. The museumalso has a section dedicated toethnographic works.

Eski ÖmeriyeMosqueIn the Kazanc› BazaarThis is thought to be one of theoldest mosques in Şanlıurfa,although the precise date ofconstruction is not known. Theearliest inscription states that itwas restored in 1301. Set oneither side of the mihrab, themosque has the finest balcony-style minbars in Şanlıurfa. Theminbars have two columns infront and two half columns at theback, are topped by half domesmade of stone, and feature ironbalustrades.

Grand (Ulu)Mosque andMinaret (Clocktower)Eski Hükümet Kona¤›In the early 5th century, thechurch of Saint Stefanos (alsoknown as the Kızıl Church andMescid ül Hamra) was built overan old synagogue. The churchwas later converted into amosque around 1170-1175. Thecourtyard walls, a number ofcolumns and capitals and theoctagonal bell tower (now usedas a minaret) remain standing.The narthex opens onto thecourtyard and has 14 pointedarches, and is the earliestexample of this architecturalform in Anatolia.

Kad›o¤luMosqueNear Su Meydan›, Kad›o¤luThe mosque was built in 1694 byKadızade Hüseyin Pasha. Themain entrance to the north of thecourtyard is topped by a half

dome. The single-balconyminaret built in 1844 by thedistrict governor of Urfa, BahriPasha, stands above the half-domed main entrance to thenorth of courtyard. The mosqueis popularly known as the DipsizMinareli Mosque, meaning‘Mosque with the BottomlessMinaret’ as the minaret does notreach all the way to the ground.The Emencekzade Fountain inthe courtyard dates from 1725.

Nimetullah(Ak) MosqueNear Karakol, KurtuluflAn inscription in EllisekizMeydan states that the mosque isa converted church. The mosqueis said to have been built in 1500by Nimetullah Bey, an Ottomangovernor of the district. Themosque has a similar floor planto the Üç Şerefeli (ThreeBalcony) Mosque in Edirne. Theentrance to the mosque isornamented with muqarnas in theclassic Ottoman architecturalstyle. A dome tops the centralarea of the narthex, while theother sections are cross-vaulted.The cylindrical, single-balconyminaret in the northwesterncorner of the mosque is thetallest of Şanlıurfa’s oldermosques.

CircisPeygamber(Peygamberler)MosqueNear the Yeni Hal (Wholesalers’Market)The mosque is located on the siteof the 5th-century MartyrSergius Church (later known asthe church of Saint Sergius andSaint Simeon) built by BishopHiba. Standing outside the citywalls, the church was frequentlyattacked, and was demolishedtwice by the Sassanids in 503and 580. It was also damagedduring the 8th-century siege ofthe city by the Abbasid caliphJafar Al-Mansur and during thelater 11th-century Seljuk siege.The church of the Martyred SaintSergius was built on the samespot in 1844. An inscription

states that the church wasconverted into a mosque byÇarhoğlu Muhammed.

F›rf›rl› MosqueVali Fuat Caddesi, Yeni MahallePopularly known as the Fırfırlı(Frilly) Mosque, its official nameis the Church of the TwelveDisciples. There are noinscriptions on the structure, soits precise date of construction isnot known. The stonework is ofa very high standard, particularlyon the western wall and cornertowers. When the church wasconverted into a mosque, one ofthe southern windows was turnedinto a mihrab, and a stoneminbar was placed in front of thehalf column in the middle of thesouthern wall. An inscription onthe mihrab states that the churchwas converted into a mosque in1956. Before this, the churchbriefly served as a prison.

SelahaddinEyyübi MosqueNorth of the Pool of Abraham,Vali Fuat Caddesi, Yeni MahalleThis mosque was erected on thesite of the St. John the BaptistChurch, built around 457 byBishop Nonan. The church wasalso used as a courthouse. Thecurrent mosque is thought to datefrom the early 18th century. Thechurch was restored in the early19th century and a number ofchanges were made to thewestern facade. The windows areornamented with reliefs ofintertwined serpents. Similarmotifs can be seen on the innerdoor of the Rızvaniye Mosquebuilt in 1716.

Yusuf PashaMosqueSarayönü Caddesi, YusufpaflaThe mosque, together with theVezi Hamam baths to the east,were built in 1709 by VizierYusuf Pasha. The mosque has arectangular floor plan, with tworows parallel to the qibla. Eachrow has three domes, adding upto a total of six. The stonemihrab is ornamented withmuqarnas, has columns on eitherside, and is surrounded by

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geometric patterns consisting ofinterlocking octagons. The sidesof the minbar and the top of thedoor feature rumi-styleornamentation. The cylindricalminaret has a single balcony.

Grand (Ulu orCami-i Kebir)MosqueCami Kebir, BirecikBirecik’s Grand Mosque isthought to date from the 12thcentury, as it bears a strikingresemblance to the grandmosques in Mardin andŞanlıurfa. All three mosqueshave a similar floor plan, with adome in front of the mihrab.However, while the other twomosques have three navesparallel to the mihrab, thesmaller Birecik Grand Mosquehas four.

TheMausoleum of Seyyid Hac›Ali, son of Seyyid MaksudHarran Kap› CemeteryKnown by the locals as themausoleum of the Kral Kızı(Princess), the ashlar tomb hasan octagonal floor plan and asingle dome. According to itsinscription, it was built for

Seyyid Hacı Ali, son of SeyyidMaksud, who passed away in1594.

TheMausoleum ofSheikh Mes’ud Central fianl›urfaThe oldest mausoleum inŞanlıurfa is actually a Seljukclosed madrasa with four iwans.The actual tomb of SheikhMes’ud is located in a roombelow the eastern iwan, while hisempty, symbolic sarcophagus isinside the iwan. An Arabicinscription on a rock next to acistern around 100 meters to thewest of the structure is dated1183. The mausoleum andmadrasa are thought to date fromaround this time.

TheMausoleum andMosque ofSheikh MüslimSuruçConstructed in 1168, thecomplex includes a mosque,dervish lodge and guesthouse,and is surrounded by Arab,Seljuk and Ottoman graves. Nextdoor is an earth-roofed, domedmosque built by the Ayyubidswhich has been restored onnumerous occasions. In 1635,Sultan Murat IV expanded themosque while on his BaghdadExpedition. The graves of SheikhMesleme and his sons are in thewestern section of the mosque.

EyyübiMadrasa -Nakibzade Hac› ‹brahimEfendi MadrasaCamikebir Y›ld›zOnly the northern wall with adoor featuring an inscriptiondated 1191 remains of theEyyübi Madrasa that stoodimmediately to the east of theGrand Mosque. The madrasa is

also known as the Kızıl MosqueMadrasa. The newer, single-iwanmadrasa that can be seen todaywas built in 1781 by NakibzadeHacı İbrahim Efendi. A largeroom divided by the iwan has avaulted roof to the east and adome to the west. The madrasa’slibrary stands to the west of thedomed room.

The Church of St. Peter and St. Paul(Reji)Central fianl›urfaAn inscription above theentrance states that the churchwas built in 1861 to replace anolder church on the site. Thechurch has a basilica plan withthree naves aligned on an east-west direction. For many years,the building was used as acigarette factory and warehouse.The church and its outbuildingswere restored in 1998, and againin 2003. It is now a culturalcenter named after GovernorKemalettin Gazezoğlu.

Deyr Yakub MonasteryThe hills south of the citycenterThe monastery is thought to havebeen in use during the time ofJacob of Serugh (the moderndistrict of Suruç), who becamebishop of the main city in thearea in the 5th century. The nameDeyr Yakub means Monastery ofJacob. This theory is supportedby the monks’ cells carved intothe rocks to the east of themonastery. The monastery is alsoknown locally as Nemrud’unTahtı (the Throne of Nimrod) andCin Değirmeni (Djinn Mill). Thelarge, two-story structure has arectangular floor plan. KingAbgar Manu’s son Şaredu isinterred together with his familyin a three-level mausoleum onthe ground floor. The crossrosette carved into a keystoneshows that the tomb was alsoused by the royal family inChristian times.

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The clock tower of theGrand Mosque



ÇardakMonasteryThe hills south of the citycenter, southwest of Deyr YakubThe monastery was built in the5th century, when Christianitywas widespread in the region.During this period, thousands ofmonks are known to have livedin the caves and monasteries inthe mountains outside the citywalls. The ruined monasteryappears to have had a rectangularplan and been divided into twosections. The slope to the east isdotted with large cisterns andmonks’ caves.

fianl›urfaCitadel and Walls The hill south of the Pools ofAbraham and Ayn Zeliha Although it is not known exactlywhen the city walls wereconstructed, they are firstmentioned in documents fromthe 6th century. The Abbasidsbuilt the ashlar, square citadel inthe 9th century, during therestoration of the city walls. Itmeasures some 1500 metersaround and has 25 towers. Thecitadel is ringed to east, west andsouth by a deep moat carved intothe rock, with a steep cliff to thenorth. The date of the Syriacinscription on the two columnsthat stand on top of the citadelshows that they were erectedlong before the surroundingstructure. The citadel wasrestored on many occasions fromthe time of the ByzantineEmperor Justinian through to theOttoman Era. The ruined

Byzantine and Islamic structuresinclude a windmill to the west ofthe citadel. A secret tunnel leadsfrom the citadel to the Pool ofAyn Zeliha, the source of itsdrinking water. Of the city walls,only the Harran Gate andMahmudoğlu Tower of the BeyGate remain standing today.

Mençek Inn East of the Pamukçu BazaarThe inn is known to date from atleast the early 18th century as itis mentioned in a documentdating from 1716. Shops line theexterior of the inn, which isentered via a vaulted hall on thenorthern façade. The inn has asquare courtyard, with rooms onthe second floor opening onto aportico. An iwan stands at thesouthwestern corner of thecourtyard. The inn is currentlyoccupied by tailor shops andhaberdashers.

Barutçu InnKazanc›lar Market, P›narbafl›After the Gümrük Han, this isthe most impressive inn inŞanlıurfa. It is also known as theharem of Halil Bey of theSakıplar. The entrance to the innis via a vaulted iwan in thenorthern wall. There is a secondfloor above the shopssurrounding the ground floorcourtyard. The western andnorthern sections are threestories tall. The southern sectionis in ruins; only the arches of theporticos remain standing. Today,the ground floor shops areoccupied by felt makers anddress shops. The upper floors arein ruins.

Samsat Kap›s›InnCentral fianl›urfaThe ashlar inn is mentioned inthe ‘Seyahatname’ by EvliyaÇelebi, which proves that it datesfrom at least the middle of the17th century. The one-story innis entered via a vaulted iwan onthe northern façade. The squarecourtyard is surrounded by shopswith vaulted roofs.

Topçu(fiehbenderiye)Innfiehitler CaddesiThe inn was built in 1903. Thelarge, barrel-vaulted entrance onthe southern wall is flanked byrooms on either side. The squarecourtyard is surrounded byshops. Many of the shops on thenorthern and western sides havecollapsed and been rebuilt fromreinforced concrete. The westernsection of the inn is two storiestall, while the other three sidesare one-story tall.

Çarmelik(Büyükhan Köyü)Caravanserai andMosque14 km along the road from 11Nisan Beldesi to Bozova, in theSuruç districtBuilt by the Seljuks toaccommodate commercialcaravans, the inn was entered viaa large iwan in the middle of thenorthern façade. Sadly, this iwanand the rooms surrounding thecourtyard are in ruins. The two-story Çarmelik Mosque standsopposite the northern gate. Thelower level of the mosque isdedicated to classrooms, whilethe mosque itself is on the upperlevel. Çarmelik Mosque has sixdomes, and the three-archednave has a flat roof.

TitriflCaravanseraiThe village of Titris in theBozova district

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Şanlıurfa Citadel



There are no inscriptions on thecaravanserai, but stylistically itseems to date from the Ottomanperiod. The square courtyard isaccessed by an iwan. Thenorthern portico has beencovered with a concrete roof,and the buildings behind havebeen demolished and replacedwith shops built from concrete.The other three sides of the innremain in close to their originalcondition. The adobe sectionabove the southeastern corner ofthe caravanserai is in ruins.

M›rbi (Ilgar)CaravanseraiThe village of Ilgar in theBirecik districtThis ruined, rectangular plancaravanserai is thought to datefrom the Ottoman period. Theentrance on the southern façadeis flanked on either side by threebarrel-vaulted rooms that wereused as guestrooms or stables. Asecond story was added in 1902-1903 by Hartavizade Emin Ağa,and the caravanserai wasconverted into a privateresidence.

Karakoyun(Jüstinyen)Aqueduct Between the Millet and SamsatbridgesThe aqueduct is thought to havebeen built in 525 by theByzantine Emperor Justinian.

H›zmal› Bridge Over the Karakoyun Stream,Central fianl›urfaAccording to local legend, thebridge was constructed bySakine Sultan, the daughter ofone of the Karakoyunlu leaders,on her pilgrimage to Mecca. Hertomb is located to the north ofthe aqueduct that passes over thestream. The partially collapsedbridge was restored in 2000.Legend has it that Sakine Sultanburied her jewels and gold nosering in the bridge’s foundationsto cover the cost of future repairsand reconstruction. The bridge isonly open to pedestrian traffic.

Millet Bridge Over the Karakoyun StreamAn inscription dated 1922 on thepediment above the southernentrance to the bridgecommemorates the fact that thefinal agreement with the French

during the Urfa War ofIndependence was reached onthis bridge - although the bridgeitself is much older. Made ofashlar with six piers and sevenarches, the bridge is open topedestrian traffic.

Samsat (Eski)BridgeOutside the Samsat Gate,Central fianl›urfaThe bridge is thought to havebeen built together with anumber of water channels toprotect the city from floodsduring the reign of the ByzantineEmperor Justinian in the firsthalf of the 6th century. Thebridge remains in use today.

Eski KuyumcuBazaarAkarbafl›This barrel-vaulted Ottomancovered bazaar has two doors.Together with the Aslanlı Inn,half of the bazaar wasdemolished in 1983 to make wayfor a road. The remaining sectionis occupied by a variety oftradesmen.

K›nac› BazaarWest of the Mençek InnThis ashlar, covered bazaar isaligned on a north-southdirection and dates from theOttoman Period. The northernsection is barrel vaulted, whilethe southern section isuncovered. The Kınacı Bazaar

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currently functions as a jewelers’bazaar.

PamukçuBazaarCentral fianl›urfaThe passages of this Ottomancovered bazaar are lined withsmall, barrel-vaulted shops.Today, the bazaar mainly sellsjewelry and clothing.

HüseyniyeBazaarCentral fianl›urfaThe bazaar was built in 1887 byHüseyin Pasha, son ofHartavizade Hafız MuhammedSelim Efendi. The bazaarconsists of two parallel buildingsbetween the Çadırcı and KazancıBazaars. Originally, the bazaarssold carpets, kilims and feltitems before becoming a coppermarket. The bazaar was restoredin 1998.

KasaplarMarketHaflimiye Meydan›The precise date of constructionof this Ottoman Period bazaar isnot known. The bazaar is T-shaped and located immediatelyto the west of the MevlevihaneMosque. It is currently abutchers’ market.

KavafhaneMarketCentral fianl›urfaThe precise date of constructionof this Ottoman Period bazaar isnot known. The bazaar consistsof small shops surrounding arectangular courtyard. Originallya shoemakers’ market, it is todaymainly occupied by tailors.

BasmahaneCentral fianl›urfaThought to date from the late19th century, this ashlar structureis one of the earliest examples ofmodern architecture in Şanlıurfa.Originally, the building served asa carpet and print fabricworkshop. The carpets that werewoven here until 1920 are highlyesteemed for their craftsmanship.

EmencekzadeFountain Kad›o¤lu An inscription on the fountainstates that it was built in 1723by a philanthropist nicknamedEmencekzade. The fountain isnext to the main entrance ofthe Kadıoğlu Mosque. Thefountain also distributes waterpiped in via the aqueduct overthe Karakoyun stream to thesurrounding mosques, bathsand houses.

Firuz BeyFountainThe southern wall of the Hac›‹brahim Efendi Madrasa,Y›ld›z Meydan›The fountain was built in1781 by Firuz Bey at thesame as the Nakibzade Hacıİbrahim Efendi Madrasa,which replaced the EyyübiMadrasa. The inscriptionstates that it ran with waterfrom the Kehriz Stream. Theniche arch and cornercolumns are decorated withornamental stonework.

Hekim DedeFountainAdjoining the northwestcorner of Hekim DedeMosqueThis square, barrel-vaultedfountain is the only one inŞanlıurfa to have two faces.The southern side features aworn calligraphic inscription;only the Hijri date 1120(1708) is legible. Both sidesfeature corner columns withribbed capitals ornamentedwith muqarnas.

Sheikh SafvetFountainThe west wall of SheikhSafvet Dervish Lodge,Ellisekiz Meydan›According to an inscriptionon the fountain, it was built in1891 by Sheikh Safvet.

MustafaKemal PashaFountainThe Diyarbak›r-Mardin-Gaziantep crossroad, nearAbidiye The fountain was built in1917 by Mutasarrıf NusretBey. In 1972, it was movedfrom its original location tothe Diyarbakır-Mardin-Gaziantep crossroad. Thewhite ashlar fountain has twolevels and elegant columns oneach corner. The lower levelfeatures a basin and fourspouts, one on each side.Each side is inscribed with anarrow and the name of theroad it points to: Kafkas Yolu,Hindistan Yolu, Ankara Yoluand Mustafa Kemal PaşaCaddesi. The fountain issignificant in that it was thefirst monument in Turkey tobe erected in the name ofMustafa Kemal Pasha beforehe took the name Atatürk.

MahmudNedim EfendiMansionBetween Kehriz Sokak andHastane Caddesi, AtatürkThe mansion was built in1903 by Kürkçüzade MahmudNedim Efendi, and combinesEuropean and traditional Urfaarchitectural styles. Set inlarge grounds, the two-story,ashlar building is divided intoa selamlık and harem. Thefront of the house faces east,and has an iwan and a numberof columns. The westernfaçade of the house iscomparatively plain.

Küçük Hac›MustafaHac›kamilo¤luMansionWest of Selahaddin EyyübiMosque, on Vali Fuat BeyCaddesi near the Pool ofAbraham

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This mansion dates from thesecond half of the 19thcentury. Built entirely fromlocal Urfa stone, it is dividedinto a selamlık and harem.The ground floor of theselamlık has a stable, toiletand servants’ quarters, whilethe first floor is dedicated toguestrooms for male visitors.In contrast to the selamlık, theharem was built in thetraditional style and includesa ‘hayat’, a type of innercourtyard with an ornamentalpool. The mansion wasrestored in 1991.

Sak›b'›nKöflkü Halepli BahçeThe villa was built by thepoet Sakıp Efendi (1796-1876). The large, two-storyhouse is divided into aselamlık and harem. Theground floor has a large,barrel-vaulted iwan flankedby a room on either side. Thesecond floor has a balcony atthe front and rooms at thesides. A poem by SakıpEfendi dated 1845 hangs on awall in one of these rooms.The poem is written on apiece of wood in calligraphicscript on a blue paintedbackground. The mansion isthought to date from aroundthe same period. A small bathstands to the west of thecourtyard. The building wasrestored in 1985 and nowserves as the Directorate ofParks and Gardens.

AkçarlarHouse (HarranUniversityHouse ofCulture) Near the Pool of AbrahamIt is not known preciselywhen this beautiful exampleof traditional Urfaarchitecture was constructed.The area around the Pool ofAbraham was first developedin the early 18th century, andthe Akçarlar House is thought

to date from this period.Indeed, an inscription on theadjacent Şefik TenekeciHouse to the east is dated1735. The house was restoredfrom 1994-2001 and nowserves as the HarranUniversity House of Culture.The house has fivecourtyards, and is divided intoa selamlık and harem.Constructed on a slope, thestructure is built in risingtiers.

AkyüzlerHouse Tarakç›lar Sokak, KurtuluflA monumental Urfa housedivided into a harem andselamlık. The inscriptionabove the front door statesthat it was constructed in1867. A large doorway leadsto the relatively smallselamlık section. The core ofthe house is the impressiveharem, which is accessed viaa second door.

Hac› Haf›zlarHouse (StateGallery of FineArts) Near KarameydanAn inscription above the doorto the selamlık states that itwas built in 1888. In 1979,the house was sold by its lastowner, Hacı Mahmut İzgördü,and subsequently restored andconverted into the StateGallery of Fine Arts. Thebuilding is open to the public,and is a characteristicexample of Urfa residentialarchitecture.

Hac› ‹mamDemirkolHouseHaciban Sokak, Camii KebirThe house was built in 1852by Kürkçüzade Ahmet BicanAğa. The northern andsouthern walls of thecourtyard have summer andwinter iwans flanked by

rooms. This pattern isrepeated on the eastern wall –an innovation first seen in thishouse. Other unique featuresinclude the decorativestonework on its well and theservice cupboard connected tothe hall of the front door.

Hac›banlarHouseHaciban Sokak, Camii KebirThe inscription on thekeystone of the iwan on thenorthern wall of the housestates that it was constructedin 1674. The most strikingfeature of this classic exampleof Urfa residentialarchitecture is the balcony onthe external wall west of thecourtyard, which is supportedby beautifully decorated stonebrackets.

KürkçüzâdeHalil Haf›zHouse12 Eylül CaddesiThe inscription on the insideof the door to the haremcourtyard states that the housewas constructed in 1903. Theelegant two-story portico withfour columns and roundarches to the south ofcourtyard is the only one ofits kind in Şanlıurfa. Theselamlık was demolished in1980 to make way for a road,but the harem remainedunscathed.

TBMMHouse (fiahapBak›r House /Arabizade ReflitEfendi House)Köleler Sokak, P›narbafl› An inscription on the frontdoor states that it was built in1778. The house is dividedinto a harem and a selamlık.After being restored, thehouse served as the office ofthe GAP Cultural HeritageDevelopment Programmefrom 2003-2007.

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fianl›urfa cultureMusic andInstrumentsMusic is in integral aspect of lifein Şanlıurfa, and is performed atall important social occasionsincluding weddingsbridal hennaparties and funerals. Musiciansperform works appropriate for theoccasion, including songs, folksongs, ‘hoyrat’ and ghazals. Atfuneral services and suficeremonies, hymns, ‘çifte’,‘hoyrat’ and ghazals areperformed. Popular instruments inthe region include cura, bağlama,çöğüş, divan sazı, ud, cümbüş,Urfa tanburu, kanun, kaval,zurna, davul and darbuka, as wellas tambourines and violins.

Folk DancesA folk dance known as ‘kımıl’ iswidely performed in the villagesof Şanlıurfa. ‘Kımıl’, also knownas ‘süne’ (aelia rostrata), is a kindof pest that attacks crops and isthe bane of Şanlıurfa farmers’lives. The ‘kımıl’ folk dancedepicts the farmers’ battle againstthe pest. The dance is performedby men and women together,either in a semicircle or a circle.

Handcrafts

Copper workLike all Şanlıurfa handcrafts,copper making has a longhistory in the region. Şanlıurfacopper is worked using atechnique known as ‘dövmeçekiç’. Today, the craft is keptalive by ten mastercoppersmiths and thirtybusinesses in the city.

Kazazl›kKazazlık is a type of silkembroidery. The ancient craftis in danger of disappearing,as only a handful of ‘kazaz’craftsmen remain.

Felt makingFelt is made from the wool of 3-4month old lambs. The wool isfirst laid out on cotton cloths.The wool is periodicallysprinkled with water, and thenhung on a wooden pole. The feltmaker pounds the felt with hischest for some five hours to bindit together. The warped edges arestraightened and the felt takes itsfinal shape.

S›ra Gece‘Sıra Gece’ are important occasions inŞanlıurfa’s musical and social life.Generally held at night, these meetingsprovide an opportunity for men to gettogether and discuss issues and solveproblems in the community. Argumentsare resolved, young men learn aboutcommunity life, and ideas are shared anddiscussed. Attended only by men, theevents provide a platform for socialsolidarity and cooperation. Localtraditions are nurtured and developed.Musical performances play an importantrole in the meetings. Many of Turkey’sfamous performers are grounded in the‘sıra gece’ tradition.

Aba ‘Aba’ is a traditional fabricwoven on looms in Şanlıurfa.The fabric is made fromcamelhair and used to makeheavy overcoats that are wornboth by men and women.


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TraditionalDressTraditionally, the women ofŞanlıurfa wear an outfitknown as a ‘şale’ while menwear an ‘aba’. Both menand women wear a thin,lavender silk headscarfknown locally as a‘Yamşah’. A ‘Puşu’ is ascarf worn only by men,either on their heads orwrapped around theirwaists.

JewelryGold and silver accessoriesare known as ‘hışır’ inŞanlıurfa, and includechokers, necklaces,bracelets, rings, earrings,pins and belts. The style ofwomen’s jewelry variesdepending on the regionwhere it is made; ‘hışır’made in Şanlıurfa is verydifferent from those made inSiverek-Suruç-Bozova-Hilvan or Harran. A‘hızma’ is a kind oftraditional nose ring madefrom silver or gold andmainly worn in rural areas.

� TattoosTattooing is an ancient traditionin Şanlıurfa that dates backthousands of years, and isparticularly common in Harranand Suruç. Thought to bringgood luck, tattooing is commonlydone at a young age, usually onthe hands, feet and face. Naturaldyes are inserted under the skinusing sharp pins. The practice isslowly being abandoned due toconcerns about health andhygiene.

Urfa FursUrfa Furs are unique to this partof the country. Only a smallproportion of the furs is soldlocally. The vast majority isexported to desert climesincluding Arabia, Iran, Syria,Iraq, Qatar and Kuwait.Dovecotes

Breeding pigeons is a popular hobby in Şanlıurfa.

Lavender headscarves areworn by both men andwomen in and around

Şanlıurfa.



fianl›urfa CuisineThe main ingredient used in Şanlıurfa cooking iscracked bulgur wheat. The cuisine is largely meatbased, and features a variety of meatballs,vegetable and meat dishes, kebaps served withgreens and ‘ayran’, as well as a range of ricedishes. ‘İsot’ (a red pepper preserve) and ‘narekşisi’ (pomegranate concentrate) are twocharacteristic flavorings used in Şanlıurfa fare.

Eggplant Kebap �Eggplant kebap is one of Şanlıurfa’s most famous kebap varieties.Finely chopped meat is mixed with tomato paste, crushed red pepperand salt, and gently kneaded. Specially selected eggplants are cut intothree or four chunks. The meatballs are placed on skewers, and pressedflat. The meatballs are interspersed with chunks of eggplant andpepper. The skewers are then placed over the glowing embers of acharcoal fire to cook slowly. Other local kebap varieties include tomatokebap, haşhaş kebap, onion kebap, kemeli kebap, tike kebap and liverkebap.

Hot dishesA wide variety of hot dishesare prepared in Şanlıurfa.These include Bamya aşı, isotdolması, isot çömleği,söğürme, karnıyarık, maruldolması, kabak oturtması,sarımsak aşı, soğan aşı, frenktavası, çağla aşı, bakla aşı,hıttı pastırması, soğan tavası,bütün patlıcan, kaburga, eriktavası, kenger aşı, boranı,meyhane pilavı, duvaklı pilav,firikli pilav, ciğerli bulgurpilavı and mığrıbi pilavı.

DessertsDesserts play an importantrole in Şanlıurfa cuisine.Regional desserts are served at‘sıra gece’ and other socialoccasions. Şanlıurfa isdeservedly famous for itsmeatballs, kebaps, hot dishesand desserts - particularly‘şıllık’. Other popular regionaldesserts include katmer,kadayıf, baklava, küncülü akıtand şire.

Nar EkflisiThis concentrate made frompomegranates is used as adressing on salads served withregional kebaps and meatballs.

Çağla kebap

Bulgur pilav Onion kebap


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Çi¤ Köfte �Şanlıurfa is renowned for its ‘çiğköfte’. Like so many things in thecity, the story of how ‘çiğ köfte’was first made is associated withthe legend of Abraham. The storygoes like this: a hunter shoots agazelle and brings it home to hiswife to prepare it. However, allthe wood in the city has beenused to build the pyre on whichKing Nimrod has sentencedAbraham to burn, and the peoplehave been forbidden to lightfires. Unable to cook the meat,the hunter’s wife trims the meatand presses it flat between twoslabs of stone. Next, she mixesthe pressed meat with bulgurwheat, peppers and some greens,making the first ever ‘çiğ köfte’,which means ‘raw meatballs’.The flavor and appearance of‘çiğ köfte’ changes according tothe quality of meat and type ofbulgur used. The mainingredients are bulgur, poundedlean meat, dry ‘isot’, onions,parsley and a variety of spices.Other meatballs made inŞanlıurfa include mercimekliköfte, dolmalı köfte, tiritli köfte,yuvarlak köfte and yağlı köfte.

� Isotİsot is a crucial ingredient inmaking ‘çiğ köfte’. Made fromred pepper, isot is widely used inthe region. Red pepper is used inmany forms in Şanlıurfa, eitherfresh, as a paste, or dried. Thelocals clean, dry and crush thered pepper themselves.

M›rraThe word ‘mırra’ is derivedfrom the Arabic ‘murr’,meaning bitter. To make bitter‘mırra’ coffee, the coffee isfirst roasted and then coarselyground. The ground coffee isboiled and strained into aclean coffeepot and allowed tosettle. This coffee is thenstrained again. A plant knownas ‘hel’ is added to the mırra,which is boiled again. Themırra is now ready to beserved. Mırra is served hot incups without handles. Aserving consists of one or twosips.


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