FARM ANIMAL PRODUCTION AND MANAGEMENT

every Filipino should eat annually at least 6.2kg of beef

11.3 kg of pork, and 3.7kg of poultry to be

adequately nourished

2

WHY ANIMAL RAISING?

It increase learning and understanding of farm animal life

it is a source of food. it is a source of clothing it is a good source of

organic fertilizer animals serves as “ beast of

burden”

3

POINT TO REMEMBER IN SELECTING ANIMALS TO RAISE

Age choose young animals for

they will stay productive for longer period of time. Older animals stay for a shorter period in the feed lo and are usually less productive

4

Health choose animals that are

active, with bright eyes, soft and smooth hide, and moist muzzle as in hogs, goats and cattle

avoid animals that are blind, lame and with coarse hide or feathers, make sure that animals are vaccinated before bringing them to the poultry house, feedlot, or corral

5

Crossbreds choose upgraded breeds

of animals. They will gain weight faster than native ot pure –bred animals

6

teats choose pigs, goats, or

cattle's which do not have inverted teats. This is an inherited trait and such teats do not secrete milk

7

Body select animals with

uniform body width and depth, a good underline, and smooth face with clean cut jowls

8

Production choose sows, does, cows,

and hens with good performance or good production records

9

Breeder choose boars, bulks, bulls

and roaster that are heavy and large for their age. They should have well- develop shoulders and strong back, and squarely on their feet

10

DIFFERENT BREEDS OF FARM ANIMALS

Poultry this includes all birds or

fouls to meet the needs or wants of humans. Normally, the term poultry is applied to chicken, ducks, geese, quails, pigeons, and turkeys.

TYPES OF CHICKEN

Brahma

Cornish Game

Single-Comb White Leghorn

Barred Plymouth Rock

MinorcaNew

Hampshire

Rhode Island Red

14

there are three types of poultry business from which the poultry raiser can choose. These are the production of eggs production of meat, and the production of both eggs and meat

15

CHICKEN

Egg type chicken breeds adapted

for egg production are the leghorn, anconas, minorcas, campinas and humburgs

SEVERAL BREED OPTIONS EXIST

RHODE ISLAND RED WHITE LEGHORN ARAUCANAS

17

Meat type the most popular breeds

belonging to this type are the plymouth rock, rhode island red, and new hamspire. Other breeds which are used in broiler production are the arbor acre, peterson, hubbard, pilch, cobb, dekalb and kimber

BARREDROCKS

BUFFORPINGTONS

NEWHAMPSHIRE

19

Dual purpose type the are breeds belonging

to this type are rhode island red, new hamsphire, plymouth rock, and vantress. These chicken are excellent egg layers and have very fine and juicy meat

NEWHAMPSHIRE

TYPES OF BREEDS

CORNISH CROSS HYBRIDS“COMMERCIAL BROILERS”

(MEAT-BIRDS)HERITAGEBREEDS

FAST GROWING(5 POUNDS IN 6 WEEKS)

VERY TENDERNO “STRONG” FLAVOR

WHITE FEATHERS

CONSIDERED“DUAL PURPOSE”

SLOWER GROWTHSMALLER CARCASS SIZE

STRONGER FLAVORCOLORED FEATHERS

STRESSORSSTRESSORSCold

Humidity

BacteriaViruses

Protozoa

Loud Noises

BeakTrimming

Parasites

PoorVentilation

Mold &Mycotoxins

NH3/H2S

HeatDust

Vaccination

RoughHandling

PoorSanitation

Molting

Weighing

PeckingOrder

FeedRestriction

NutritionalDeficiencies

Poor LitterQuality

Dirty Water

Crowding

COMMERCIAL BROILERS

COMMERCIAL BROILERS

SMALL SCALE PRODUCTION

SIMILAR BASIC REQUIREMENTS…FOR…

BROODINGNUTRITION

HOUSING AND EQUIPMENTMANAGEMENT

WHY ARE THE FIRST 2-3 WEEKS OF LIFESO VERY IMPORTANT FOR CHICKS ?

QUESTION

ALL THE BIRD’S BODYSYSTEMS ARE DEVELOPING

IMMUNESYSTEM

DIGESTIVESYSTEM

THERMOREGULATORY

SYSTEM

FEATHERING

LEARNINGTO EAT AND DRINK

TISSUE TYPES

SUPPLY TISSUES DEMAND TISSUES

MUSCLEBONE

FEATHERSBEAK

LUNGSLIVER

PANCREASDIGESTIVE TRACT

1-DAY OLD BROILER CHICK

RESIDUAL YOLK

IMMATUREDIGESTIVE TRACT

HATCH1 WEEKOF AGE

TOTAL MASS IS 4 FOLDGREATER THAN REST OF BODY

DURING EMBRYOGENESIS THE DIGESTIVE TRACT DEVELOPS

BEFORE THE BRAIN

COMMERCIAL SCALE

SMALL SCALE

BROODING UNITS

LAMP-TYPE BROODER

BROODING

BROODING HEAT SOURCES

BROODING UNITS

WHAT IS THE BEST WAY TO DETERMINEIF THE CHICKS ARE COMFORTABLE

IN THE BROODER ?

QUESTION

THE CHICKS WILL TELL YOUIF THEY ARE COMFORTABLE

BROODINGTHE CHICKS WILL TELL YOU IF THEY ARE COMFORTABLE

LET’S TALK A LITTLE BIT

ABOUT

NUTRITIONALLY SPEAKINGWHAT ARE THE ONLY SIX

THINGS CHICKENS NEED ?

SIX MAJOR NUTRIENTSSIX MAJOR NUTRIENTS

CARBOHYDRATELIPID

PROTEINVITAMINSMINERALS

WATER

VERY IMPORTANT CONCEPT OF VERY IMPORTANT CONCEPT OF NUTRITION TO REMEMBERNUTRITION TO REMEMBER

…..ENERGY IS NOT A NUTRIENT…..

IT IS A “PROPERTY” OF THREE NUTRIENTS

CARBOHYDRATE

LIPID

PROTEIN

VERY IMPORTANT CONCEPT OF POULTRY VERY IMPORTANT CONCEPT OF POULTRY NUTRITION TO REMEMBERNUTRITION TO REMEMBER

MOST POULTRYEAT THE AMOUNT OF FEED THEY NEED IN

ORDER TO MEET AN ENERGY REQUIREMENT

“CONVENTIONAL PRODUCTION” 1) USE THE CORRECT FEED FOR EACH AGE & BIRD TYPE

STARTER GROWER FINISHER LAYER

“CONVENTIONAL PRODUCTION” 1) NUTRITIONAL REQUIREMENTS MUST BE MET BY FEEDING A “COMPLETE DIET” (BALANCED ENERGY & NUTRIENTS)

2) IT IS NOT NECESSARY TO FEED CRACKED CORN OR SCRATCH FEED OR LIMESTONE OR OYSTERSHELLS (REMEMBER: BLENDING WITH GRAINS DILUTES THE NUTRITION)

3) HOME-MIXED FEEDS MAY BE USED BUT INGREDIENTS MAY BE DIFFICULT “AT TIMES” TO ACQUIRE

4) DO NOT LIMIT FEED CONSUMPTION BY RESTRICTING FEED BECAUSE THIS WILL DECREASE PERFORMANCE

WILL THE TYPE OF DIET THAT I FEEDHAVE AN EFFECT ON THE

DEVELOPMENT OF THE GIZZARD ?

QUESTION

YES

GIZZARD & PROVENTRICULUSGIZZARD & PROVENTRICULUS(VENTRICULUS)

KOILIN LINING

KOILIN LINING OF GIZZARD

GROOVES

FED FOR ONLY ONE PURPOSE

NOT NECESSARY IF MASH OR PELLETS ARE FED ALONE

KOILIN LAYER

HOW MUCH WATER WILL POULTRY DRINK

?

QUESTION

HOW MUCH WATER WILL POULTRY DRINK

?

…ANSWER…

IT DEPENDS

QUESTION

BROILER AGE AND WATER CONSUMPTION

BODY WEIGHT

DAILY WATER CONSUMPTION

DAYS OF AGE X 6 ML

“BROILERS”(UNDER NORMAL CONDITIONS)

FINALQUESTION

WHY DID THE CHICKEN CROSS THE ROAD ?

TO PROVE TO THE OPOSSUM IT IS POSSIBLE

60

PROVIDING HOUSING FOR A POULTRY

Poultry Layers A. Deep litter floor layer house- .6 to .56 sq

meter per bird layerB. built- up litter slat floor opens- .46 sq

meter per bird layerC. individual cage- 10 sq meter per bird

layer

61

broilersA. deep litter floor systemAge of Birds Floor area per head( sq.m)1day to 3 weeks .93 weeks to 5 weeks .155 weeks to 7 weeks .30B. Built up litter slat floor system .24C. Cage operation ( 15-20) .15

DUCK AND GEESE

The average lifespan for domestic ducks bred for meat production is between six and eight years, with smaller breeds living between eight and 10 years. The average lifespan for geese is 18 to 25 years.

Ducks are currently being bred to grow much larger and at a faster rate than in the past, but geese have been manipulated far less than ducks.

Though weight varies by breed, in general, mature female geese weigh between 10 and 18 pounds,

mature male geese (“ganders”) weigh between 15 and 25 pounds.

Mature female ducks used for meat production, including Muscovy and Pekin, weigh between seven and 15 pounds

mature male ducks (“drakes”) of the same breeds weigh between nine and 18 pounds.

Smaller breeds of ducks, used for eggs, weigh between two and six pounds. These include breeds such as Khaki Campbell, Silver Appleyard, and Runner.

Normal body temperature for ducks and geese is 107.5 °F, with young birds ranging between 102 °F and 106 °F.

65

TYPES OF DUCKS

Egg type the native duck. The

Pateros duck, called itik by the tagalogs, is generally known as the native duck. Its feathers are black gray, although some are brown and white mixed with black.

66

The runner commonly called the Indian runner, it is

the only foreign egg breed of ducks in the country. It originated in England and is termed the “ leghorn” of the duck family because of its great egg laying capacity. There are three standard varieties of this breed, namely, the white fawn, the white, and the pencilled. The white and white fawn are the most popular varieties raised in the country today.

67

Meat type Muscovy duck, Pato real

or bibe : this kind of duck, which originated from brazil, is purposely bred and raised for its meat which has higher quality than that of the average duck.

68

Pigeons pigeon raising is a

business enterprise which is part of poultry industry. Squabs or young pigeons are considered a great delicacy so they fetch fairly good prices.

69

Geese among the hardiest fowls,

geese are the easiest to raise. Building houses for these fowls is not necessary. They need only a shelter or shade.

70

Quails quails , locally known as pugo

are small birds found in temperate and tropical regions throughout the worlds. They begin to lay eggs 35 to 45 days after hatching. Eggs can be sold fresh, boiled as penoy , or as balut.

Nutritional Needs of Ducks and Geese

Water. Clean, fresh drinking water must be available at all times. The use of a poultry fountain is recommended to prevent spilling.

If you are using a poultry fountain make sure they have access to a pond or pool so that the waterfowl can clean their nostrils or nares.

In warmer weather, check water often throughout the day. During periods of freezing temperatures, the use of a water heater is recommended.

You can also use a heated bucket, but make sure it is installed properly and cords are attached to a wall so ducks do not get caught up in them.

Ducks and geese splash out a good deal of water, so watch for ice build-up around the water units in the winter.

Feed. We highly recommend buying duck feed in pelleted form. There are a variety of feeds available, including some organic feeds, which provide a complete diet for waterfowl.

Always use non-medicated feed because many common drug additives can be fatal to waterfowl. Avoid commercial diets formulated to promote fast growth in waterfowl used for meat or egg production.

These diets, which often contain medications meant to prevent communicable diseases in large duck communities, may be harmful to your duck.

Feed should be supplemented with chopped vegetables, scratch grains, and access to pasture

Feeders. Choose a container that is heavy enough to prevent tipping and small enough to prevent your birds from walking or standing in their feed as this can lead to contamination by feces.

Ducks and geese sometimes like to get their food wet, so always discard old feed and supply fresh daily.

Handling Ducks and Geese

Building. A shed makes a fine home for ducks or geese. The shelter must be predator-proof and well ventilated.

Plenty of clean, dry straw should always be provided for bedding, and wet and soiled bedding should be removed daily.

We recommend cleaning the entire building (i.e., scrubbing floors, walls, etc.) once a week.

An unopened straw bale makes a terrific roost for ducks and geese and is a good way to keep them off the ground when sleeping. For protection from predators, your birds must be kept safely in their shelter at night.

Pond. Ducks and geese need water in which to bathe and swim. This is necessary for both their health and their happiness.

If you don’t have a pond or small lake that you can fence in, a large tub or a pool will work. These vessels will probably need to be dumped, cleaned, and refilled daily.

If you use a horse or cattle water tub, you will need to build a small ramp to help your birds get in and out of the water.

Some waterfowl, especially those with special needs, may require rocks or other items to stand on to get out of a tub. If you have a natural spring or stream on your property, you can build a pond.

Fencing. Fencing is necessary to keep predators out and ducks and geese in. A 4- to 5-foot-high, 2-inch × 4-inch woven wire, “no climb” fence is recommended.

For areas with foxes or other digging predators, we recommend using a fence that is taller than needed to contain the birds so that the excess inches can be bent and buried to prevent predators from digging.

Alternatively, you can dig a trench and sink the fence. No fence, however, is completely predator-proof.

Health Care and Maintenance of Ducks and Geese

Maintenance. For waterfowl, as for all animals, regular health checks that allow you to see each bird individually are imperative. Because waterfowl feathers are thick and therefore tend to hide injuries, it is important to examine the birds’ bodies often.

During your daily contact with your birds, always be on the lookout for any physical or behavioral changes.

In particular, watch for dirty vent areas, changes in behavior, separating from the flock, and limping. It can be difficult to find a veterinarian who is willing to treat ducks and geese, but they do exist.

Your best bet is to find someone who works with “exotic” birds and other non-traditional companion animals.

Common Health Issues of Ducks and Geese

Worms. Although internal and external parasites are rarely a problem in small flocks of ducks and geese, we recommend having a fecal sample analyzed by a lab one to two times annually and whenever you introduce a new bird to your flock.

We recommend that you obtain two clean fecal results before you put a new bird in with your residents. If parasites are detected, you will need to administer a worming medication.

Wormers can be purchased at farm supply stores in easy-to-use formulas that are added to the birds’ drinking water. Always check to make sure that medications are made for ducks and geese because many drugs are life-threatening to waterfowl.

If you are using a water treatment, remember that this must be the only source of drinking water. Therefore, if you have a pond, the birds must not have access during treatment. Loss of weight and greatly increased feed consumption are signs of worm infestations.

Keel Sores. Sores are often found on the keels (breastbones) of ducks and geese, especially among those who spend more time lying down due to arthritis or other ailments.

Keel sores are difficult to see without going through the feathers on the chest, which can be done only when handling the bird. This is one reason why performing individual checks is so important.

These sores can become quite large and infected, and they can lead to osteomyelitis of the keel bone. Treatment with antibiotics is often necessary to clear up this type of infection.

If an infection is caught late, antibiotic therapy and even surgery may be necessary.

Respiratory Infections. Respiratory infections are usually indicated by nasal discharge, lethargy, and loss of appetite.

If you notice any of these symptoms, contact your veterinarian for treatment.

Some antibiotics are toxic to waterfowl, so always seek guidance from a vet who works with birds before administering any medications to your ducks or geese.

Incoming Duck and Goose Procedures

When you first get a new ducks or geese, you should isolate them from the rest of your flock and even from the same pasture used by your resident birds. Have a fecal sample sent in for analysis to ensure that your new birds are not full of parasites. Many treatments are toxic to waterfowl, so check with your veterinarian before starting any worming treatment.

Wear isolation gear, which includes boot covers, gloves, and coveralls or some type of protective clothing so that you do not spread parasites or other disease to your resident flocks.

Do full body checks on your new residents to ensure that they do not have any wounds, lumps or bumps, swelling in feet or leg joints, or soiled feathers around their vents.

Make sure you birds are healthy and parasite-free before allowing them to comingle with your existing flock.

83

LIVESTOCK

Hog Breeds roughly 60 percent of all

kinds of meat eaten by Filipino is pork.

Mature female pigs (―sows‖) and mature male pigs (―boars‖ if uncastrated, ―barrows‖ if castrated) generally weigh between 600 and 900 pounds, but they can weigh in excess of 1000 pounds. The normal body temperature for pigs ranges from 101.6 °F to 103.6 °F.

Industrial pigs are much larger than wild pigs or those not used in factory farming.

DUROC Originated in the

United States color is varying shades

of red droopy ears good mothering ability efficient feed

converters fast growth rate prolificacy a meat-type hog

HAMPSHIRE Originated in England black hogs with a white belt

that encircles the forepart of body, starting behind head and neck

erect ears foraging ability leanness of carcass muscling used as show animals or in

crossbreeding programs

YORSHIRE Originated in Yorkshire,

England color is white, can have

black freckles long bodies erect ears large litters good mothering ability good feed efficiency rapid growth used as bacon-type hogs or

in crossbreeding programs

Hereford Originated from the

Poland China, Duroc and other breeds

color is red with a white face

droopy ears prolific good mothering

ability foraging ability

Berkshire Originated in

Berkshire & Wiltshire Counties in England

color is black with 6 white points (feet, tail, snout)

erect ears medium-sized hog lean carcass

Poland China Originated in Ohio color is black with

six white points (feet, tail, & face

drooping ears large breed produces carcasses

with large loin eyes very little back fat commonly used in

crossbreeding programs

Landrace

Developed in Demark ins the late 1800’s and early 1900’s

Long backs and underlines make a lot of bacon and pork chops

Droop eared White hairs and pink skin Good breeders and farrowers Great milk production

Chester White

Developed in Chester Co Pennsylvania in mid 1800’s

Good mothering abilities Known for their soundness

Soundness is the ability to walk and move on their feet

A problem for many pigs

Nutritional Needs of Pigs

Water. Clean, fresh water — and lots of it — must always be available to your pigs. Because they tend to dirty their water quickly, lie down in large water tubs, and flip small water tubs

we recommend the use of a special automated pig waterer, available in some farm supply stores and catalogs.

Feed. Pig feed can be purchased at most feed stores. Because pre-mixed pig feed is designed to promote fast growth and is generally made with antibiotics, hormones, and animal by-products,

we highly recommend mixing your own, or, if you have only a few pigs, using potbellied pig feed.

Using your own mixture is viable if you have enough pigs to go through a ton or more of feed every three to six weeks.

Most feed mills will not mix smaller quantities. If you live in an area where fruits and

vegetables are plentiful, you can also supplement their diet with fresh foods, but make sure you are giving them all the nutrients they need.

Feeders. Pigs have a tendency to flip over rubber or plastic bowls and use them as toys more often than feed holders. Nonetheless, such containers can be used for feeding as long as they are removed as soon as the pigs are done eating.

Our shelters use 4- to 6-foot-long metal troughs, one trough per three pigs. Always provide enough feeders to allow all of your pigs to eat at the same time.

Locate your feeding area on a surface that can be cleaned easily and will not get muddy.

Shelter Requirements for Pigs

Building. A concrete-block building is ideal for pigs who have strong noses and often destroy wooden structures. The flooring should be slip-resistant and have some give.

Dirt is best. Concrete is so hard on hooves and joints that it can lead to permanent injuries. Therefore, if your building has a concrete floor, it should be covered with five to six inches of dirt or with rubber mats (these, however, will make cleaning difficult).

Your shelter should be waterproof and well ventilated, especially in warm weather. Pigs do not sweat and can suffer greatly in extreme heat.

The use of mister fans in the summer is ideal for pigs, but areas where they sleep should be kept dry.

Good ventilation is also crucial in the winter because humidity from urine, manure, and body moisture can cause horrible pneumonia outbreaks.

Wet moist heat in a barn can lead to other issues such as yeast on the skin or other skin infections, so a properly ventilated barn is imperative.

Fencing. In addition to adequate shelter, pigs need a fenced-in paddock. Many types of fencing are suitable for pigs. Four-foot-high ―no climb‖ horse fencing and hog panels are both good options.

Pasture. We recommend providing one acre of land for every two pigs. Pigs love grass, but they will root up the area, turning over a large portion of the soil. Good drainage is essential to prevent the entire paddock from turning into a mud pit. We recommend having two pastures so that if one gets muddy, the pigs can be moved to the other until the first dries out. For warm weather, pigs’ outdoor habitat must have plenty of shade. An area that is half wooded and half pasture is ideal.

Pig Health Care and Maintenance

Maintenance. Pigs are among the most difficult farm animals to care for because their breeding predisposes them to a slew of ailments. Health problems can be greatly reduced, however, by consistently providing sanitary housing, clean pasture, strict diets, fresh water, and plenty of time outside.

Common Health Issues of Pigs

Upper Respiratory Problems/Pneumonia. Pigs, like humans, are susceptible to colds, flu viruses, and pneumonia, particularly if their shelter is drafty or muggy or if they’re exposed to rapid temperature changes. Symptoms include loss of appetite, listlessness, coughing, and discharge from the eyes and nose. A fever may also be present for a couple of days. The best course is always prevention, which includes proper ventilation, temperature control, and isolation of new arrivals until they have a clean bill of health. Because most forms of pneumonia in pigs are contagious, it is critical to isolate any pigs who display symptoms of upper respiratory infection. Pneumonia can be fatal, so you should consult your veterinarian if you observe these symptoms.

Limping/Arthritis/Hoof Infections. Due to their abnormally large weight, many domestic pigs suffer from stiff and sore joints, and they can easily injure their legs, feet, and hooves. If your pig is limping, check for debris caught in the hoof, cracks in the hoof, or any heat or swelling from the foot up to the top of the leg. If the limping continues for more than a few days, consult your veterinarian. Causes of limping in pigs include nutritional imbalances; foot, joint, or leg infections caused by trauma or bacteria; degeneration of bones and joints; arthritis; and ingestion of toxins. Multiple types of arthritis are common among pigs, and diagnosing the type is important for treatment. Infections in feet, bones, and joints also have multiple causes and should be diagnosed by a vet before a treatment is chosen. Pigs are prone to infections in the hoof that quickly spread into the bones of the feet. Catching these infections early is essential because, once an infection is in the bone, surgery is often the only option and does not always work.

Lice and Mange. A pig infected with lice or mange will scratch almost constantly and act restless. Mange mites cannot be seen with the naked eye, but they are evident through the presence of red, scaly, scabby areas with hair loss. Your vet can do a skin scraping to determine whether your pig has mange. Lice and lice eggs are visible without a microscope, so a skin scraping is not necessary to diagnose this kind of infestation. Sarcoptic mange is a reportable condition and is highly contagious to people and all other mammals on the farm, including dogs and cats. If your pig develops a skin infection or rash, wear gloves and do not allow others to touch the pig until you have determined the cause.

Internal Parasites. Although good sanitation will greatly reduce worm problems, you should still have your pigs checked regularly for worms. Have a stool sample checked by your veterinarian every three to six months and then administer treatment accordingly. Isolate any incoming pigs until a fecal exam can be done and any parasites are treated. As with medications for external parasites, we suggest using oral worming products because injections are far more difficult to administer and more stressful to the pig

Heat Exhaustion. Pigs suffer greatly from the heat, mostly because of their inability to sweat and their large size. Providing a mud hole, a pond, and fans will help keep them cool. Symptoms of heat exhaustion include elevated temperature (above 103 °F–106 °F), weakness, muscle tremors, labored breathing, lethargy, staring, vomiting, and collapse. If you notice any of these symptoms, contact your veterinarian immediately and cool off the pig as quickly as possible.

Skin Cancer. Squamous cell carcinoma is very common in pigs, especially among such breeds as Yorkshires and Landrace, which have been bred to have pale skin. Signs of skin cancer usually appear first on the skin behind the ears but may also affect the shoulders, the back, and even the abdominal area. We recommend that, during the spring, summer, and fall, you apply sunscreen to all areas on your pigs not covered in mud. Sun exposure is rarely in issue in winter, except in very warm climates

Pig Behavior Problems

Pigs are very territorial animals, and putting new pigs in an already existing area can be very complicated and will involve fighting. Young piglets are more easily introduced to a

herd of adults, but careful oversight is necessary to ensure that they are not injured by the large pigs. Adult pigs will fight with every herd resident to establish their place in the pecking order. This is not something you can control or prevent, but you do not want the newcomer or any resident pig to suffer serious injury. The use of pig boards to break up fights is helpful, but you can easily get hurt. Before attempting to put pigs together, consult with someone who is experienced in pig handling. There are also products on the market, such as Pig Pax, which are unpleasant-tasting liquids that are rubbed on the pig to deter others from biting them. These are not guarantees against confrontations — much depends on the personalities of the pigs in the herd. Often new pigs are forced out of the barn, so be sure they have a safe place to sleep outside if necessary. Do not introduce pigs when it is hot because fighting will lead to overheating.

Bringing New Pigs In

When pigs arrive, unless they come from another sanctuary that has already treated them and given them a clean bill of health, they must be isolated in a strict quarantine area, and caretakers should wear coveralls or ISO suits and boot covers. If animals are in really bad shape, do not spread their straw bedding on your pastures; instead, pile it in a separate area on the farm until fecal tests, skin scrapings, etc. are complete. If females are present, make emergency appointments immediately upon arrival for spays/pregnancy checks to avoid unwanted births. Neuter any males immediately after all spays are complete, and separate all males and females if intact males are present.

Pigs should be checked for skin problems, and, if there is any sign of external parasites or bacterial disease, get a scraping immediately and treat accordingly. Treat all pigs immediately with Ivermectin unless they are very weak. Take in a fecal sample as soon as possible.

Check for overgrown hooves and overgrown tusks and trim as needed. If a pig is aggressive or frightened of people and poses a real risk to caregivers or to the pig, wait until it has calmed down before attempting to do trimming. If the animal is aggressive and cannot be handled safely, a vet can anesthetize the pig to allow the trimming to be done.

Check joints for swelling and heat. Check feet for abscesses/infections and treat all accordingly.

If pigs show any signs of discharge from their eyes or noses, cultures should be taken by a vet.

If pigs are coughing and show signs of pneumonia, have a vet check them and start treatment.

Check manure and, if loose stool is found, have a bacterial culture run and treat the pig or pigs accordingly.

Keep pigs isolated for a minimum of 30 days or longer if there are any signs of health problems.

Pigs should undergo a complete health check within two days of their arrival. If they are calm and seem healthy, this should be done immediately.

Once the pigs are ready for introduction, they should be housed in a pen within the main pig area for at least a few weeks before they are put in with other pigs. They will need to be monitored closely at this time and any fighting broken up

before injuries occur. Do not introduce pigs on hot days because they are prone to heat stroke and stress.

Be very careful around pigs you do not know. A scared pig can be very dangerous and, depending on the handling they have experienced, pigs can also be aggressive. Observe pigs carefully before approaching them. If a pig is chomping his jaws, stay away from him and consult a vet who knows pig behavior.

110

Recommended floor space requirement for small scale hog production

Stage and weight of animals

floor space per head( sq meter)

A. Pregnant gilt or sowB. sow and litterC. mature boarD. Gilts or junior boarE. Weanlings up to 35

kgF. 35 kg to 60 kgG. 60 kg to market

weight

1.854.46 to 5.944.46 to 7.43 1.85 to 2.78 .46 to .74.55 to .74.74 to 1.11

111

GOAT HOUSING

good housing for goat need not to be expensive. It can be made of cheap materials such as nipa or cogon for roofing and bamboo for flooring and siding. A shed of 2 1/2 m wide and 4m long is big enough for three milkers and their young.

GOAT CARE

The typical lifespan of a goat is approximately 12 to 14 years. However, most sanctuary animals come from abusive factory farm conditions and, consequently, may have more health problems and shorter life spans.

Mature female goats (“does”) of the larger breeds (including Alpine, Nubian, Saanen, and LaMancha) generally weigh between 125 and 175 pounds. Mature male goats (“bucks” if uncastrated, and “wethers” if castrated) of the same breeds generally weigh between 150 and 225 pounds. Females and males of smaller breeds (such as Pygmy) weigh between 40 and 80 pounds and between 60 and 90 pounds, respectively. Normal body temperature for goats is 101 °F to 102 °F.

Nutritional Needs of Goats

Water. Clean, fresh water must always be available to your goats. Use heavy containers to prevent spilling.

Although expensive, an automatic watering system can be a good investment because it greatly reduces water waste. Such systems are especially helpful during the winter in areas where temperatures drop below freezing.

Minerals. Essential to daily nutrition, minerals should always be available to your goat. Goat minerals come in multiple forms, including loose minerals and mineral blocks.

If you are keeping sheep and goats together, make sure that the minerals you use are formulated for both species because sheep cannot tolerate copper.

Goats, however, do need cooper and can have many health problems without it, so goats kept with sheep should receive a supplement.

Feed. As ruminants (animals with stomachs that have four chambers), goats rely mainly on hay or pasture to fulfill their dietary needs. They need at least eight hours of grazing time per day.

Shelter Requirements for Goats

Building. For goat housing, we recommend the use of a pole barn, not a shed. We also recommend dirt floors over wood ones, which can be slippery and therefore put goats at risk of torn ligaments and joint damage.

Allow at least 25 square feet per goat, and be sure the shelter has good ventilation and no direct drafts. Always provide your goats with plenty of clean, dry straw for bedding.

Remove damp and soiled straw daily, replacing it with fresh straw. Lightly spreading hydrated lime on any wet areas will help control moisture and prevent the spread of bacteria.

Fencing. In addition to adequate shelter, goats need a fenced-in outdoor area. The ideal fencing to use for goats is 4-foot-high, woven wire, “no climb” horse fencing, available at farm supply stores.

High tensile electric fencing can also be used, especially if you are housing cattle and goats together. Field fencing, which has large, square openings, puts goats, especially those with horns, at risk of getting their heads caught.

Regularly walk along your fence line to check for holes dug under the fencing by predators.

Tethering. Tethering your goats (putting them on a long leash) is not recommended as it can be stressful for them. Tethering is also very dangerous because a goat can accidentally hang himself on a tether.

Pasture. We recommend one acre of land for every two goats, although the amount of pasture necessary varies according to the quantity of hay the goats are fed. For warm weather, the fenced area must have plenty of shade. Erect fences around any shade trees you want to keep because goats are great landscapers and will destroy unprotected trees

Health Care for Goats

Maintenance. Goats are relatively easy to take care of, and sanitary housing, good quality pasture, nutritious food, and plenty of sunshine will greatly help to reduce health problems.

Goats need to have their hooves trimmed every four to six weeks. This is very important because neglect of hooves can lead to lameness and infection. Hoof trimming is a simple procedure that your veterinarian can teach you. Hoof trimmers are available through farm supply stores or catalogs.

During your daily contact with your goats, always be on the lookout for any physical or behavioral changes. Symptoms indicating illness include loss of appetite, limping, listlessness, labored breathing, diarrhea, discharge from the eyes or nose, and abnormal body temperature. If any of these symptoms occur, consult your veterinarian immediately.

Vaccines. Make sure your goats are vaccinated for rabies, tetanus, and clostridium (CTD). The rabies vaccine can be hard on goats, therefore the other vaccinations should be given at least one month before or after the rabies vaccine.

Common Health Issues of Goats Upper Respiratory Infections. A

respiratory infection is any infection that affects the goat’s breathing apparatus, including the nose, trachea/windpipe, bronchi, and lungs.

Symptoms include nasal discharge, excessive coughing or sneezing, loss of appetite, and increased body temperature. If any of these symptoms occurs, consult with your veterinarian immediately.

Caseous Lymphadenitis (CL). Caseous lymphadenitis (CL) is a chronic disease that causes enlarged, localized, and non-painful abscesses on the skin, organs, and lymph nodes. There are two forms of CL, internal and external.

The external form, which results in abscesses on the skin, can become internal via blood or the lymphatic system, affecting the internal lymph nodes and organs. One of the first outward signs of CL is large, pus-filled abscesses. If your goat has an abscess, you should separate him from the herd and have a vet take a culture of the pus.

This is the most accurate test for CL. If it is CL, the pus in the abscess is contagious and can spread the disease. If you are sheltering goats, you are highly likely to encounter individuals who are CL-positive. It can be difficult to navigate the vast amount of material available on CL, so we urge you to speak with someone at Farm Sanctuary for the most reliable and pertinent information. The bottom line, however, is that CL is contagious, and, if you are rescuing goats, you will eventually take in someone who has it.

124

Suggested feeding for goat

for goats four months old to freshening, the following 20 percent protein grain mixture should contain the following:

ground corn 12% rice bran 24% copra meal 40% soybean 8% meat and bone 10% molasses 5% salt 1 kg