NIMA MUNDI

ANIMAMUNDI

AAdventures in Wildlife Photography

Issue 9, Year 3 - 1st Quarter, January 2013

In This Issue:

SCOOP The Amazon FlasherTHE FORGOTTEN ISLANDS Réunion and Rodrigues

GENTLE GOBLINS Lemurs of Madagascar

THE HUMMINGBIRD WHISPERER A portfolio by Glenn Bartley

TWO IS A COMPANY Symbiosis in Shrimp Gobies

Issue 9, Year 3 - 1st Quarter, January 2013

In This Issue:

SCOOP The Amazon FlasherTHE FORGOTTEN ISLANDS Réunion and Rodrigues

GENTLE GOBLINS Lemurs of Madagascar

THE HUMMINGBIRD WHISPERER A portfolio by Glenn Bartley

TWO IS A COMPANY Symbiosis in Shrimp Gobies

2

Painted frogfish Antennarius pictus, Borneo.

NIMA MUNDIAAdventures in Wildlife Photography

Welcome to our third anniversary!

A lovely portrait of an Indri Indri indri - seeBjorn Olesen’s homage to the endangeredlemurs of Madagascar from page 44.

It’s a wonderful feeling as we enter 2013 andour successful third year of life - welcome to Issue9! As we are writing these lines we’ve just comeback from a spectacular 30-days long explora-tion of the pristine forests of India’s WesternGhats, we’re getting prepared for a month-longtrip to Madagascar in April and we’re busy orga-nizing two other August and November 2013trips, respectively to Namibia’s Etosha NationalPark and Peru’s Tambopata Nature Reserve.Expect an avalanche of fascinating travel articlesand above all stunning images in our forthco-ming issues - but for the time being, be patientand enjoy the present one, we can guaranteeyou won’t be disappointed.

We start with some amazing images of the cra-zily colorful Pterochroza ocellata flashing katy-did from the Amazon - while certainly not new toscience, a more surprising insect is truly difficultto imagine, and we were very lucky to witness itsdazzling nocturnal defensive display whiletrekking in Eastern Ecuador’s rainforest. Jump topage 4 and be stunned by our Scoop!

After the dark, humid and slightly oppressivenight of the Amazon, a more serene, luminousfeature awaits you on page 9 with our new con-tributor Olivier Esnault’s highly informative andsplendidly illustrated trip report on the twosomewhat “forgotten islands” of the IndianOcean - discover with us the dazzling beautyand elegant charm of Réunion and Rodrigues,with their tropical volcanic environments rich inbeautiful endemisms and unique species. You’llbe enchanted by Olivier’s delicate photographs,as we have been!

And since we are in the area, we then take arelatively short hop on page 44, travelling a fewhundred miles West and visiting the giant isle ofMadagascar. Be charmed - as we have been - by

our new contributor Bjorn Olesen’s visual homa-ge to the “Red Island”’s gentle goblins, theimpossibly cute but sadly greatly endangeredlemurs. Bjorn is very active in wildlife photo-graphy and conservation (he just authoredtogether with Fanni Lai the coffee-table book AVisual Celebration of Giant Pandas), and histouching images will soon grace the pages ofANIMA MUNDI - Adventures in WildlifePhotography again.

It’s a giant leap then - from the endangeredlemurs of Madagascar to the technicolored, iri-descent birds of Costa Rica, Peru and Ecuador- thanks to the stunning (and humbling!) imagesfeatured in the Personal Portfolio by ourCanadian friend and new contributor GlennBartley - his extraordinary hummingbird imagesqualify as true art, and Glenn is more than wil-ling to share the behind-the-scenes secrets of themultiflash technique he has developed to createthese unique images. Fly to page 59 and beamazed by his hummingbird portraits - theseare truly beyond comparison.

Our feature on Shrimp gobies wraps the issueup - in this issue we take you diving in thewarm, shallow waters of the Indo-Pacific’s CoralTriangle to discover the fascinating life habits ofthese underrated, exceptionally colorful littlebenthic fish, which share a touching and ratherunique symbiotic relationship with their com-mensal blind Alpheid shrimp. Sounds too exoticto you? Don’t worry, turn to page 70 and findout why ”Two is a Company”.

We hope you’ll enjoy this issue. And the nextone will be even better! In the meantime...

Have a good trip!Andrea & Antonella Ferrariwww.animamundimag.com

A Brown Noddy Anous stolidus from the Ile aux Cocos - our feature on Réunion and Rodrigues starts from page 9.

Contents

4SCOOP

The Amazon Flasher, a surprising katydid

9THE FORGOTTEN

ISLANDSAn exclusive look atenchanting Réunion

and Rodrigues

44GENTLE GOBLINS

A visual tribute to the lemurs of Madagascar

59THE HUMMINGBIRD

WHISPERERGlenn Bartley’s

personal portfolio

70TWO IS A COMPANY

The secret social life of shrimp gobies

86THE PARTING SHOT

3We appreciate yourfeedback - constructive

criticism, useful suggestionsand interesting

contributions are mostwelcome.

Please drop us a line at

nautilus@reefwonders.net

ANIMA MUNDIAdventures in Wildlife

Photographyis a Free Quarterly Online Magazine

www.animamundimag.com

PublishersAndrea and Antonella

Ferrarinautilus@reefwonders.net

Editor-in-ChiefAndrea Ferrari

andy@reefwonders.net

Layout Design & ArtDirection

Laura GenoveseAnna Bortolini

VideographerAntonella Ferrari

anto@reefwonders.net

Video EditingLeon Joubert & Claudia

Pellarini-Joubertinfo@bittenbysharks.com

Distribution & TechnicalSupport

Peter Symeseditor@xray-mag.com

All rights reserved. Material inthis publication may not be reproduced, modified or

transferred electronically in anyform without written permission

from the copyright owners.

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ADVERTISE ON ANIMA MUNDI - ADVENTURES IN WILDLIFE PHOTOGRAPHYWith more than 15,000 downloads worldwide per issue (as per August2012), ANIMA MUNDI has seen its readership consistently and rapidlygrowing in the brief span of only two years and eight published issues. Its authoritative and unbiased travel reports and wildlife articles offer a highlevel of scientifically-correct information - at absolutely no cost - to thousandsand thousands of nature and photography enthusiasts all over the world. Each and every issue of ANIMA MUNDI - Adventures in Wildlife Photographyis permanently available for FREE downloading - our mission is the dissemination and condivision of information to promote nature awarenessand habitat conservation, and we are proud to reach out on a quarterly basisto a world of passionate, highly motivated, seriously interested readers whoall share our passion for wildlife photography and travelling. This is a sample - among many others - of what our readers say:

Dear Andrea & Antonella,I have just finished reading your latest edition of Anima Mundi and I was inspired to write and say how much I am enjoying your publication and following your adventures. My wife and dive/photo partner Cherie and I were so inspired by your feature on YalaNational Park that we booked a Safari with Eco Team and we had a fantastic time. It wasexactly as portrayed in your article and we also followed your recommendations for visiting the cultural triangle in Sri Lanka. As we were leading one of our dive tours on a live aboardexploring the Maldives last June, a private side trip to Sri Lanka was clearly not to be pas-sed up due to your information. So, I guess it’s good news for you both that others are rea-ding and responding to your work. So, we just wanted to give you some feedback, say helloand wish you all the best with your future adventures. Keep up the great work.Kevin & Cherie DeaconDive 2000Sydney, Australia.www.dive2000.com.au

Advertising on ANIMA MUNDI - Adventures in Wildlife Photography means reaching out and getting in personal contact with such people - passionatetravellers, dedicated wildlife and nature photographers, world-famous field researchers. All sharing a common bond, all interested in serious, reliableinformation on wildlife and nature travelling and photographic workshops, trips and equipment. All waiting to hear from you!

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THE INCREDIBLETARANTULA MOTH

A RARE ENCOUNTER IN THE BRAZILIAN ATLANTIC FOREST

WITH ONE OF ITS MOST SECRETIVE AND

UNIQUE SPECIES

SHOCKING FLASHEROF THE AMAZON

A NOCTURNAL ENCOUNTER IN THE LOWLAND RAINFOREST

OF ECUADOR WITH A GIANT LEAF-MIMIC KATYDID

LEAVES US DUMBFOUNDED - SCROLL ON AND DISCOVER WHY

SCOOP!SCOOP!

Pterachroza ocellata in its restive state, showing how it hassuccessfully evolved to perfectlymimic a large leaf. This is how itcan be observed in the field - withsome luck and good eyesight.

5

The suddenflashing of the inner

wings and wingcovers reveals

a confusing patternof bright colors,

which never fail tosurprise the

observer.

TEXT BY ANDREA FERRARIPHOTOS BY ANDREA & ANTONELLA FERRARI

reproduced, down to the minutest details - tiny spots of moldhere, small dried-up areas there. We gaze in stupefied admi-ration at this miniature masterpiece of deceipt, but there’smore to come - as I put my hand forward to gently coax it ina better position for a photo, the leaf-mimic katydid suddenlyshudders, simultaneously raising and flashing open its largewings and wing covers, revealing a blinding, confusing arrayof bright colors and patterns, dominated by two enormousocelli, at the same time starting to bounce around in short,grotesque hops as some displaying or wounded bird!Admittedly startled by this unexpected and rather unnervingbehavior, we step back with a gasp - proof, if needed at all,

6

A s we stumble on the muddy, slippery, leaf-littered yel-low soil of the Ecuadorian Amazon rainforest at night, I seemto perceive a slight, hesitant movement among the thickly lea-ved branches along the trail - just a hint, with the corner of myeye. A tree frog, possibly, or maybe, with some luck, even atree viper? The light beam of my headlamp swings around inthe pitch dark as the ever-so-slight trembling of a large green-brown leaf is repeated. But wait - that is no leaf, that is a huge,absolutely spectacular leaf-mimic katydid! My jubilant cryalerts our companions as we illuminate the large insect,openly poised on a branch. Its body camouflage is absolutelystunning - even the delicate veining of a real large leaf is perfectly

of the extraordinary success of its defensive ruse. It’s like facinga monstruosly beautiful, unknown creature made of living, rawflesh - or a living, hopping and very big flower, who knows? Sohere we introduce to you this wonderful creature - Pterachrozaocellata is its scientific name - which first successfully pretends tobe a leaf to disappear in the rainforest vegetation, and then putson a sudden and equally successful show to shock and awe itswould-be predators. Fascinating indeed! We would find a fewmore specimens of this same species, during other nightly explo-rations, often showing different colors and patterns - but alwayseliciting in us the same childish enthusiasm and sense of wonder.Isn’t our Pterachroza an incredible creature? .

Another image of the leaf-mimickatydid Pterachroza ocellatain its normal state. Far right, the flashing sequence of another individual, possiblybelonging to a differentPterachroza species - noticedifferent coloration and patterns.

7

Two images of the samePterachroza ocellata individual -frontally on the left, from the backon the right - show in detail its “flashing” defensive behavior, a strategy which greatly increasesits perceived size and confuseswould-be predators about its real identity and possibledefensive means.

8

When Giovanna Holbrook took on the challenge of leading two University of Florida science professors and a group of naturalists to the Galápagos Islands in 1971, she had no way of knowing the lasting impact that experience would have on her life and on the lives of those traveling with her. The group journeyed throughout the archipelago aboard a retired navy vessel, propelled by their spirit of adventure and thirst for knowledge. At that time, the Galápagos was just celebrating its twelfth year as a national park, conservation work at the Charles Darwin Research Station was still in its infancy, and tourism in the islands was virtually non-existent.

More than thirty years later, Holbrook Travel continues to serve the needs of teachers, students, academic institutions, and nature lovers. Although many changes have taken place over the years, Holbrook Travel has taken great care to remain true to its roots. As news of environmental concerns and world conflicts continue to fill the airwaves, it seems more important than ever to help people gain a better understanding and appreciation of the natural world and other cultures through firsthand experiences. In the words of Andrea Holbrook, president: “Our goal is to try to continue the great work my mother started.”

To Travel Is to LEarn.

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9OntheTrail

Close to well-known Mauritius, two remote islands in the Indian Ocean are a secret haven for many endemic, fascinating species

REUNION AND RODRIGUES, THE OTHER MASCARENES

THE FORGOTTEN ISLANDS

HEREGOOGLE EARTH COORDINATES HERE

RÉUNION AND RODRIGUES, THE OTHER MASCARENES

THE FORGOTTEN ISLANDS

10

éunion and Rodrigues islandsbelong to the Mascarene archipelagoin the Indian Ocean. Both are a naturedestination that should not to be missedunder any circumstance! Let's discoverthese two islands characterized by wildnature and exceptional environments.The Mascarene archipelago consists ofthree islands: Réunion, Mauritius andRodrigues island. They are a thousandkilometers away from the east coast ofMadagascar, between the nineteenthparallel south and the Tropic ofCapricorn. Mauritius is definitely themost popular destination of thisarchipelago for tourism. Its large whitesand beaches, luxury hotels and masstourism are particularly popular withtour operators. Unfortunately, on thisisland, the environment has beendamaged due to economicaldevelopment. Rodrigues island is small(108 sqkm), surrounded by a lagoontwice as big as its terrestrial surface.Rodrigues is part of the Republic ofMauritius but has benefitedindependence on some matters in2002. The population is around40,000 inhabitants and the capital is

Port Mathurin. It is located about 800km East of Réunion island.Réunion island is a French overseasdepartment, located about 700kilometers East of Madagascar. It is2,512 sqkm and its highest peak, thePiton des Neiges, is 3,075 meters high.Its growing population is of 800,000inhabitants and is expected to reach 1million by next decade.The volcanic islands of the Mascarenearchipelago are all originated from thehotspot that feeds the Piton de laFournaise in Réunion island. Thisvolcano is the only active one in theregion. Volcanism reliefs areomnipresent and may be seen in everylandscape. Rodrigues was the first ofthe Mascarene islands to emerge,followed by Mauritius and then Réunionisland, that emerged about three millionyears ago.Réunion Island being the youngestisland of the archipelago, its relief is stillvery steep. The combination ofvolcanism, tectonic landslide events,heavy rainfalls and stream erosion haveformed a rugged and dramaticlandscape of striking beauty,

RTEXT AND PHOTOSBY OLIVIER ESNAULT

A volcanic eruption onRéunion; on the opening

spread, a Fairy Tern Gygisalba on Rodrigues.

A cluster of islands alive with fire and water

continued on page 13 ›

11The rugged coastline at Saint-Philippe, on Réunion.

12

Nesting Brown Noddy Anous stoliduson the Ile aux Cocos, Rodrigues.

13

dominated by two towering volcanoes,the dormant Piton des Neiges and thevery active Piton de la Fournaise. Othermajor landscape features include"remparts", steep rock walls of varyinggeological age and character, and so-called "cirques", which can bedescribed as massive naturalamphitheatres with an imposing heightand verticality. There are also deep,partly forested gorges andescarpments, with subtropicalrainforests, cloud forests andheathlands, thus creating a remarkableand visually appealing mosaic of

ecosystems and landscape features. Inthe Piton des Neiges massif, severalpeaks dominate above 2,200 meters:Cimendef, Roche Ecrite, Grand Bénare."Pitons", "cirques" and "remparts" ofRéunion island were integrated to theUNESCO world heritage sites onAugust 1st, 2011.The last eruption of the Piton de laFournaise took place on December10th, 2010 and lasted about a day.Being a spectator of an eruption is amagical moment that remains etched inyour memory. Eruptions from the Pitonde la Fournaise are effusive, which

Panther Chameleon Furcifer pardalis, Grande Anse, Réunion.

A paradise for naturalists in search of endemics

continued on page 17 ›

14

Lesser Noddy Anous tenuirostris, fishing in shallow water

at the Ile aux Cocos, Rodrigues.

15

The stunning, otherworldly landscape of the Plaine des Sables on Réunion.

Left,Réunion’sGreen GeckoPhelsumaborbonnicaborbonnica;right, top,Green Geckoof ManapanyPhelsumainexpectata;right, bottom,another imageof the samespecies.

16

17

makes them relatively safe to watchfrom close distances. The many hikingtrails on the slopes of the volcano arefully secured and clearly marked. Theclimate at such a high altitude (2,632m) is very inconstant and it is notuncommon to suffer as much from heatas from cold. One must therefore beequipped appropriately and forgetneither a windbreaker nor sunscreen !On Rodrigues island, traces ofvolcanism are older and consequentlyharder to identify. A few basalt peaksare reminders of the presence of ancientmagmatic chambers. Old lava flowsare still distinct in the eastern part of theisland, especially on the coast. Therelief is much more attenuated than that

of Réunion island and the highest peak,Mont Limon is 398 meters high.These variable reliefs affect localclimatology. Generally speaking, theclimate is tropical humid, with a fairlystrong seasonality. The dry season startsin April/May and ends in September.The rainy season lasts the rest of theyear, when tropical storms andhurricanes occur. The numerous microclimates in Réunionisland (117 identified microclimates)are mainly due to the geography of theisland. In the highest regions, frosts arenot uncommun during the dry and coldseason, and it may occasionally snow.The climate is also very differentbetween the eastern windward shore

The supreme grace of the soaring Tropicbird

continued on page 21 ›

White-tailed Tropicbird Phaeton lepturus soaring at Saint-Philippe on Réunion island.

18

Far left,African Grass

Blue Zizeriaknysna; center,

PantherChameleon

Furcifer pardalis;right, Zisina

antanossa - allthree species

taken at Réunion.

19

Another far-ranging, stunninglandscape of volcanic origin at the Rivière de l’Est on Réunion.

Left,ChangeableLizard Calotesversicolor;right, top,RodriguesYellow FodyFoudiaflavicans;right, bottom,CommonWaxbillEstrilda astrildon Rodrigues.

20

and the western lee shore.Due to a relatively low relief, the climateof Rodrigues island is much moreuniform than that of Réunion island.

ENDEMISM AND SPECIES

In the Mascarenes, indigenous speciesmay be found on various islandswhereas endemic species only exist onone of the islands, in specific habitats.Both indigenous and endemic specieswere present before man, who arrivedwith many exotic (and often invasive)animal and plants species.The mainnaturalistic attraction of Réunion andRodrigues is their incredibly highendemism rate. For example, Réunionisland is a paradise for botanists withover 200 species of indigenous andendemic ferns; over 150 orchid species

(mainly originary from Madagascar),are distributed in various ecosystems.Excluding a few bat species, therearen't any endemic mammals either inRéunion or Rodrigues island. On theother hand, there are endemic reptiles.These have all disappeared fromRodrigues island but three green diurnalgecko species remain in Réunion island(Phelsuma inexpectata, Phelsumaborbonnica borbonnica and Phelsumaborbonnica mater). The green gecko ofManapany (P. inexpectata) is located inan area of a dozen square kilometers inthe South of the island. Numerous otherPhelsuma have been introduced fromother islands (Madagascar, Mauritius,Seychelles, etc.) and proliferate, often tothe detriment of endemic species.On Rodrigues Island, two endemic birdspecies may be seen: the Rodrigues

21

continued on page 24 ›

Fairy Tern Gygis albawith its single egg at the

Ile aux Cocos on Rodrigues.

22

RodriguesFlying FoxPteropusrodricensisroostingduring theday atSolitude,Rodrigues.

23Left, the beach at Saint-Pierre;

right, the lunar landscape of the Plaine des Sables - both on Réunion island.

24

bourbonnensis bourbonnensis) and theRéunion bulbul Hypsipetes borbonicusl ive in forests. Two seabirds areendemic to Réunion island: the Reunionpetrel Pseudobulweria aterrima and theBarau’s petrel Pterodroma baraui. Lastbut not least, the Réunion cuckooshrikeor "tuit- tuit" Coracina newtoni iscritically endangered, being a victim ofthe proliferation of rats.Where butterflies are concerned, manyspecies can easily be observed onRodrigues island, such as Junoniarhadama, although there isn't any

endemic species. There exist a fewendemic butterflies and moths onRéunion island. One species, Salamisaugustina augustina, is criticallyendangered due to the disappeareanceof its host-plant Obetia ficifolia. Someindividuals are bred at the insectariumin the city of Le Port and may beobserved there. As for Odonatas, thereare almost 15 species in Reunion,including dragonflies and damselflies.One pretty endemic damselfly,Coenagriocnemis reuniensis, lives nearwater falls.

warbler Acrocephalus rodericanus andthe Rodrigues fody Foudia flavicans.The Réunion harrier Circus maillardi isthe only endemic bird of prey ofRéunion island. Other endemic birdspecies exist on the island, such as theRéunion Olive White-eye Zosteropsolivaceus and the Réunion Grey White-eye Z. borbonicus. The Réunionstonechat, also called "tec-tec" in thecreole language (Saxicola tectes) is abird familiar to high regions. TheMascarene paradise flycatcher – locallycalled "zoizo la vierge" (Terpsiphone continued on page 28 ›

A Humpback WhaleMegaptera novaeangliae

breaches briefly at Saint-Gilles on Réunion.

Left, BrilliantBlue Junoniarhadam at theEtang Salé onRéunion; right,Reunion GreyWhite EyeZosteropsborbonicus at Le Tampon,again onRéunion.

25

26

The atmospheric waterfall of the Bassin la Paix on Réunion.

27

Left, dawn onthe coral reefs atGrands Bois on

Réunion; right, top,Curlew SandpiperCalidris ferrugineaat the Rivière Saint-

Etienne, Réunion;right, bottom,

Grey PloverPluvialis squatarola

at the Etang duGol on Réunion.

28

IMPACTS ON BIODIVERSITY

Man has had - and still has - direct orundirect disastrous impacts on thebiodiversity of both islands. In the past,Réunion and Rodrigues islands weresupply stops for ships sailing throughthe Indian Ocean. In order to refill freshmeat, hundreds of giant turtles wereloaded aboard the ships. It was a goodway to avoid deficiencies of vitamins orproteins. Furthermore, turtles were ableto survive quite a long time on a boat.The populations were thus very quicklyreduced to almost nothing beforedisappearing from both islands. Thesame sad story has happened tonumerous endemic flightless birds, suchas the Rodrigues solitaire Pezophapssolitaria. The development of humansettlements made the populations ofintroduced rats and cats increase. These

two species have a huge impact onbreeding seabirds like the Barau’spetrel. Rats, for example, areresponsible for the near extinction of the"tuit-tuit” and the extinction of theRéunion owl Mascarenotus grucheti.Noddies and tropic birds are quitecommon in Rodrigues. A small islandNorth-West of the lagoon, l'Ile auxCocos, is worth the detour. One side ofthe sandy islet is open to visitors wherehuge populations of Brown NoddiesAnous stolidus and Lesser Noddies A.tenuirostris can be seen. In the highseason, there are over 50,000thousand noddies on the island – morethan the inhabitants of Rodrigues! SootyTerns Onychoprion fuscatus haveestablished their colony in the areaclosed to visitors. Finally, the delicateand subtle Fairy Tern Gygis alba lays itssingle egg in the hollow of unstable

A Réunion Harrier Circus maillardi soars above the forest at Tévelave on Réunion.

continued on page 33 ›

29

Top left, Red FodyFoudiamadagascariensisat Le Tampon,Réunion;bottom left,CommonWaxbillEstrilda astrildagain at LeTampon; left,Village WeaverPloceuscucullatusat Petite Ile,Réunion.

30

Secret glimpses of a forgotten Eden

Rainforest landscape withwaterfalls and rocky stream at Grand Galet on Réunion.

31

Left, Red-WhiskeredBulbulPycnonotusjocosus at LeTampon; right, ReunionStonechatSaxicola textesat the Plainedes Cafres on Réunion.

Pounding surf at the Pointe au Sel on Réunion.

32

Curlew Sandpiper Calidris ferruginea,Sanderling Calidris alba, CommonSandpiper Actitis hypoleucos, CommonGreenshank Tringa nebularia, GreyPlover Pluvialis squatarola, CommonRinged Plover Charadrius hiaticula,Greater Sandplover Charadriusleschenaultii, Bar-tailed Godwit Limosalapponica, Lesser SandploverCharadrius mongolus, Crab PloverDroma ardeola. I am always amazedat the capacity of migratory birds to

branches. Réunion and Rodriguesislands are salutary migratory halts fornumerous species, especiallyshorebirds. Species present in thesummer are practically the same onboth islands. The Eurasian CurlewNumenius phaeopus is certainly themost common shorebird. AlthoughRodrigues is much smaller than Réunionisland, it is host to a higher speciesdiversity and to a greater quantity ofindividuals. Encountered species are:

33

Top, Whimbrel Numeniusphaeopus at the Rivière Saint-Etienne, Réunion; right, ReunionStonechat Saxicola textes at thePlaine des Palmistes; far right,Mascarene Paradise FlycatcherTerpsiphone bourbonnensis.

cross oceans to spend the summer inthe lagoons of tiny islands. In 2010, Iwas lucky to watch Terek SandpipersXenus cinereus in the estuary of SaintEtienne river (Réunion island). Andthese birds reproduce in northernScandinavia! The two individuals Iobserved stayed for two days beforeflying off to an unknown destination.Two migratory falcon species,Eleonora’s Falcon Falco eleonorae and

Sooty Falcon Falco concolor also stop onRéunion island.

CONSERVATION PROGRAMS

All of these frail insular ecosystems areprotected on both islands. In 2007, aNational Park was created in Réunionisland. It covers a large area of the islandand its main goal is to preserveendemism. In Rodrigues island, the

Mauritian Wildlife Foundation manages anature reserve of about fifteen acres. A bigrestoration program has been establishedand many endemic plants are beingreintroduced. This environment allows thesurvival of the two endemic birds and theendemic Rodrigues flying fox Pteropusrodricensis.Rodrigues is also a diving paradise with alagoon that is rather well preserved. Onemay also bask on the numerous great

white sand beaches. On Réunion island, theso-called lagoons are actually fringing reefs.However, they are full of fish and very nicefor scuba diving. During winter, theseislands are on the humpback whales'migration route. It’s a magical show toobserve whales, but this must be done ingood conditions, with respect towards theanimals. One may see mothers with theirnew-born calves, mating males andimpressive jumps. .

Curlew Sandpiper Calidris ferruginea,

Rivière Saint-Etienne, Réunion.

34

35

The spectacular, far-ranging view at Piton des

Neiges on Réunion.

36

HoveringFairy TernGygis albaat the Ile auxCocos onRodrigues.

37

Rocky shore at Saint-Philippe, Réunion.

38

Far left, theendemic RéuniondamselflyCoenagriocnemisreuniensis; center,a forest trail atHell Bourg onRéunion; right,Barau’s PetrelPterodromabaraui at Saint-Etienne, Réunion.

39

CommonGreenshank

Tringa nebulariaat the RivièreSaint-Etienne;

right, dawn onthe coral reef

lagoon at GrandsBois on Réunion.

40

Sunlight and clouds at thePlaine des Cafres on Réunion.

Clouds at dawn set afire by sunlight

41

Ghost Crab Ocypode saratanat the Grande Anse beach on Réunion island.

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USEFUL TIPS FOR YOUR EXPEDITIONSome simple, common sense, field-tested advice and information to make the best out of your trip and avoid hassles, worries and problemsROUTE: La Réunion is served by three airlines (AirAustral, Air France and CorsairFly) with departuresfrom France. You can also fly with Air Mauritius, viaMauritius. There are two international airports on theisland: Saint-Denis (Roland Garros) and Saint-Pierre(Pierrefonds).Contacts:Saint-Denis: +262 262 48 80 00http://www.reunion.aeroport.fr/Saint-Pierre: +262 262 96 80 00http://www.grandsudreunion.org/Best time to travel: each season has its own charmbut the best periods, climatewise, are April/Mayand October/November. In December and January,

you will be able to gorge yourself on lychees andmangoes. Summer is also the best moment toobserve numerous migrating birds and insects.During winter, in July and August, you will definitelysee humpback whales.Rodrigues is served by two airlines (Air Austral andAir Mauritius), with a compulsory stop in Mauritius.Sir Gaëtan Duval airport is located in Pointe Corail,South West of the island.Contact: +230 832 78 88http://www.airportofrodrigues.com/Best time to travel: all year round, with maybe arecommendation for Apri l/May andSeptember/November.

MEANS OF TRANSPORT: Local car and scooterrentals possible and suggested, many offers both inRéunion and Rodrigues. Wildlife photographersshould be prepared for long - although very pleasant- walks in a tropical climate.

CURRENCY: Mauritian Rupee for Mauritius andRodrigues, French Franc in Réunion.

ACCOMODATION: In Réunion many local guesthouses, a few luxury hotels. In Rodrigues many localguest houses. We suggest to avoid staying in luxuryhotels, because that’s really not the best way todiscover Rodrigues and its inhabitants.

At-a-glance travel guideCOUNTRY OF DESTINATION: RÉUNION & RODRIGUES

FOOD: Typically Indian Ocean/Creole food withfresh vegetables, rice and fish dishes - a lovely (andoccasionally hot!) fusion between Indian, Chinese,Malay, African and European cuisine. The mainlocal specialty is curry, a savory stew of meats, fishor shellfish, simmered with garlic, onions, ginger,cloves, turmeric, and other local spices. Curry isserved with white rice, legumes (beans or lentils) anda spicy condiment called rougail made withtomatoes, lemon, and pistachios. Don’t miss the localfruit such as mangoes or lychees when in season.

LANGUAGE: French and Creole, plus ChineseHakka and Malay in a few areas.

WORRIES: None worth mentioning, but like in somany other places it’s definitely better avoiding latenight walks alone, especially if carrying expensivecamera or video equipment.

HEALTH: No serious risks of dangerous tropicaldiseases. However it is worth mentioning that in2005 and 2006, Réunion was hit by a cripplingepidemic of chikungunya, a disease spread bymosquitoes. 255.000 people on Réunion hadcontracted the disease as of 26 April 2006. FrenchPrime Minister Dominique de Villepin sent anemergency aid package worth 36 million Euro(57.6 mil l ion U.S. dol lars) and deployedapproximately five hundred French troops in aneffort to eradicate mosquitoes.

CLIMATE: All the islands experience a humidtropical climate with monsoon rains from Novemberto April. It might be worth noting that between 15and 16 March 1952, Cilaos at the centre of Réunionreceived 1,869.9 millimetres (73.62 in) of rainfall.This is the greatest 24-hour precipitation total everrecorded on Earth. The island also holds the record

for most rainfall in 72 hours, 3,929 millimetres(154.7 in) at Commerson's Crater in March 2007,from Cyclone Gamede. Commerson also holds therecord for most rainfall over all periods ranging from4 to 15 days from a storm in 1980.

BESIDES: Given the warm and humid climate, westrongly recommend to travel light when visitingthese islands. A good reflex camera, a medium focallength (a multipurpose 300mm f/4 is really useful),a wide-angle and a trans-standard zoom areenough. The fauna is not that wild, so very long focallengths are not necessary and possibly not evenuseful. In certain cases, like in primary forests, aluminous lense, such as a 300mm f/2.8 is reallyadapted. Don’t forget a tripod for landscapes. .(Special thanks to Hélène Deglaire and Zoé Glénardfor the help).

Indian Ocean islands with an amazing incidence of endemisms

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Beauty of the Beast

GENTLE GOBLINSGENTLE GOBLINS

Beauty of the Beast

Ancient, harmless, much loved worldwide and desperately endangered at home - meet the adorable denizens of the Red Island’s disappearing forests

LEMURS OF MADAGASCARLEMURS OF MADAGASCAR

Propithecus coquereli

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The endangered Coquerel's Sifaka Propithecus coquereli (also on the title page) has a matriarchal system where all adult females aredominant over males. Many local Malagasy traditions prohibit hunting of the Coquerel's Sifaka - however, these protective taboos arebreaking down, so hunting is widespread including in and around National Parks. I took these images in Anjajavy Private Reserve.

Nikon D3s 300mm 2.8 f/5.6 1/320 ISO 2500

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y greatest pleasure as awildlife photographer is when myimages can be used to promoteconservation, and in all such cases I dothis work on a pro bono basis. I amhappy to say that many of my imageshave been used by WWF, Traffic,National Geographic News Watch,the Nature Society of Singapore, andthe Malaysia Nature Society to namea few. During my travels, primatesalways fascinate me; this goes back to1998, when I saw my first wild OrangUtan at the Kinabatangan River inBorneo. It was moving around in ahuge fig tree, when suddenly it wasattacked by a swarm of buzzing bees:it tried to ignore them, but eventuallyhad to move. Another memorableencounter was in Mahale NatureReserve, Tanzania, when I saw afemale Chimpanzee feed its sick-looking youngster with what lookedlike a big wild lemon, presumably tomake it get better. It is encounters likethese which you remember forever.Nowadays I do most of my primatephotography with Nikon D4 or D3swith the Nikon 600mm VR f/4 or300mm VR f/2.8 lenses. With tele-converters these lenses give you a lotsof flexibility without sacrificing toomuch of image quality. For landscapeand close-ups I mostly use the D800Ewith the Nikon 14-24mm zoom or theMicro 105 mm VR. All that said, thereis really too much emphasis on

equipment these days, and it istherefore nice to see that many award-winning wildlife photos have beentaken with non-professional equipment.For primates, there is one place in theworld that stands out, and that isMadagascar, with its 103 species ofLemurs - all of which are endemic.Unfortunately, 91% or 94 these lemursare now assessed as being in one ofthe Red List threatened categories,according to the President ofConservation International, RussMittermeier. Madagascar today issuffering from a fluid political situation,which is affecting the good initiativesdone by the previous democraticallyelected government, and at themoment conservation laws are poorlyenforced there.However, in spite of all the bad newscoming out of Madagascar, it is anature photographer's paradise, andone of my favourite destinations. Myadvice is: visit this veritable “TreasureIsland” as soon as you can! .Bjorn Olesen is a retired corporate executive,award-winning wildlife photographer, and apassionate conservationist. He is a long-termresident of South-East Asia, and his photos andarticles have appeared in local and overseaspublications and on the web; all his 40,000+premium images are available free-of-charge tonon-profit NGOs, as his commitment to support toconservation. He can be contacted through hiswebsite http://www.bjornolesen.com.

MTEXTS AND PHOTOS BY BJORN OLESEN

The Aye-aye Daubentonia madagascariensis is the most remarkable mammal that I have ever seen: body of a cat, bat's ears, beaver's teeth, a very long bushy squirrel tail, a middle finger which looks like a long deadtwig - and big eyes like those of ET! This photo has been taken in a captive environment in Madagascar.

Nikon D3s 24-70mm VR 2.8 f/2.8 1/50 ISO 3200

Daubentonia madagascariensis

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Varecia variegata editorumA curious Black and White Ruffed Lemur Varecia variegata editorum from Analamazaotra SpecialReserve. In areas where there is no hunting pressure, the lemurs are very approachable and have littlefear of humans. Moving slowly, I was able to approach this individual to a distance of only 6 meters.

Nikon D3s 70-200mm 2.8 VRII f/9 1/50 ISO 640

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The nocturnal Eastern Avahi Avahi laniger is native to the eastern rainforest belt up to at least 1,600 mtabove sea level. These two owl-like individuals were watching me intensely from high up in the canopy,in the eastern Analamazaotra Special Reserve. Their white eyebrows are quite special.

Nikon D3s 300mm 2.8 VRII f/3.5 1/200 ISO 1600 SB900 flash

Avahi laniger

Grey Mouse Lemur Microcebus murinus in Ankarafantsike National Park. They are nocturnal and omnivorous, and found along the western coast in various types offorests. Sleeps during the day in tree holes lined with leaf-litter, and may use up to a dozen different tree holes that are shared with up to 15 other individuals.

At a body length of around 13 cm they are tiny - this individual was quite unconcerned by my presence, and the photo was taken at a distance of less than 4 m.

Nikon D3s 300mm 2.8 VRII f/5.6 1/60 ISO 1600 SB 900 flash

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Microcebus murinus

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The endangered Diademed Sifaka Propithecus diademais here seen in Mantadia National park; I think it is

one of the most beautiful of all Malagasy lemurs.

Nikon D3s 70-200mm VRII 2.8 f/5 1/2000 ISO 3200.

Propithecus diadema

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A curious Common Brown Lemur Eulemur fulvus watching with a two-weeks'old infant in Anjajavy Private Reserve. I selected September to visit

Madagascar, when the Lemurs have babies.

Nikon D3s 300mm 2.8 VRII f/6.3 1/125 ISO 2000

Propithecus diademaEulemur fulvusNikon D700 70-200mm VRII 2.8 f/10 1/80 ISO 500

Another inquisitive Black and White Ruffed Lemur Varecia variegata editorumfrom Analamazaotra Special Reserve. In areas where there is no hunting pressure, the lemurs are very approachable and have little fear of humans.

Nikon D3s 300mm 2.8 VRII f/8 1/800 ISO 800 SB 900 flash

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Varecia variegata editorum

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This Greater Dwarf Lemur Cheirogaleus major watched me calmly during a night walk in AmberMountain National Park. Interestingly, most of their fat reserves are stored in the tail - before“hibernation” the normal weight is around 600 gr., which drop to 250 gr. in September.

Nikon D3s 300mm 2.8 VRII f/2.8 1/60 ISO 1600 SB 900 flash

The Crowned Lemur Eulemur coronatusremains active both day and night throughout the year, and fruit

dominates its diet. Location: Amber Mountain National Park.

Nikon D3s 70-200mm 2.8 VRII f/7.1 1/60 ISO 2500 SB 900 flash.

Cheirogaleus major Eulemur coronatus

The Ankarana Sportive Lemur Lepilemur ankaranensis is a vertically clinging lemur and one of the smallest Sportive Lemurs with a body length of 280 mm. It is nocturnal, with leaves forming the bulk of its diet. From Ankarana Special Reserve.

Nikon D3s 300mm 2.8 VRII Tele-converter 1.7 f/6.3 1/400 ISO 2000

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Lepilemur ankaranensis

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Eulemur rufusA Red-fronted Brown Lemur Eulemur rufus with a 3-week-old baby in the Analamazaotra Special Reserve. They are found in two distinct populations in the Eastern and Western parts of the island.

Nikon D3s 70-200mm 2.8 VRII f/8 1/1600 ISO 1600

Among the lemurs being indiscriminately hunted is the Indri Indri Indri, the largest ofthe living lemurs. This spectacular species leaps from tree to tree like an arboreal

kangaroo and looks like a cross between a teddy bear and a giant panda.

Nikon D3s 300mm 2.8 VRII f/5.6 1/250 ISO 1600 SB 900 flash

Indri indri

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A Sanford's Brown Lemur Eulemur sanfordi. Amber Mountain National Park, in theextreme North of the island. Taking photos in the forest is not always easy with the

backlights, and many times a flash is necessary, something that I always try to avoid.

Nikon D3s 300mm 2.8 VRII Tele-converter 1.7 f/6.3 ISO 1600 SB900 flash

Eulemur sanfordi

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The rare Northern Rufous Mouse Lemur Microcebus tavaratra has been only recently described, and is currentlyfound in one location only, Ankarana Special Reserve. Without an experienced local guide I would never havespotted this individual hiding in a tree hole. Head/body length is only around 12 cm. It is yet to be studied.

Nikon D3s 300mm 2.8 VRII Tele-converter 1.7 f/4.8 1/640 ISO3200 SB 900 flash

Microcebus tavaratra

Cheirogaleus crossleyiThis Furry-eared Dwarf Lemur Cheirogaleus crossleyi was observed in theAnalamazaotra Special Reserve in the eastern part of the island. They are only seen during the summer (April-October) when they are most active.

Nikon D3s 300mm 2.8 VRII f/5.6 1/60 ISO 1600 SB900 flash

Sadly, Madagascar is one of the world's most heavily impacted countries in terms of recent habitat destruction. Nearly 90 percent of its original vegetation has alreadybeen lost (an incredible 89.2% of all plants on Madagascar are endemic), and erosionon the island is severe. On a more positive note, it is remarkable that we still continueto discover new lemur species, actually more than 40 new species have been describedsince 2000, and there are now 103 different lemurs known to man. I am sure thatMadagascar, the “Red Island”, still has many natural treasures yet to be discovered.

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“My experience was EXCEPTIONAL! The trip exceeded my expectationsin all areas. I hoped to get in a position to see owls and couldn’t possibly have been happier. It was abundantly clear that David invested significant time and effort prior to the arrival of the group in scouting the area around Quebec and Ontario. He knew exactly where to go to find every species of owl. His knowledge and efforts were very much apprecia-ted by the entire group. My primary objective was just getting in a position to photograph owls and was not expec-ting much in the way of photographic instruction. I was very pleasantly surprised and was very happy with the instruction. Prior to the trip I had a love/hate relationship with auto focus as it applies to photographing birds in flight. I’ve struggled with this for years. While I have a lot more to

learn, and need to work at honing my skills, the trip with NPA helped me tremendously in being able to photo-graph birds in flight. Photographing birds in flight was my main objective. Prior to the trip I was nearly clueless in comparison to my skills after the trip. You can also see from my bird list that I found the trip productive from a birding perspective as well”.Kevin McCarthy, USA “I recommend NPA workshops! The level of services by workshop leaders was excellent. Quality of photographic instruction was exceptional and they

were always on hand to solve issues that arose, and I had more than my share of equipment issues. Quality of wildlife provided was good and I was amazed at how easily the subjects accepted new setups provided. Locations visited were right on for the spices targeted. My most memorable moment was using the flash setups the first time and capturing an image of the Swordbill Hummingbird. I feel that my level of photography has improved with the custom functions that were set up on my camera for me and the resulting images that I obtained. Overall experience and

expectations were achieved and we were fortunate to have a very compatible group on our tour, which made it very enjoyable. This was my first workshop and I would recommend them to friends”. Rosemary Harris, Canada “Great trip, great experience and great workshop leader. Great opportunity for capturing images of magnificent and uncommon (in southern USA) birds. Organizers contribute to great group dynamics and superb attitude. Cool techniques”. Eric Grossman, USA

Canada: Newfoundland - Puffins & Gannets l British Columbia - Spirit Bears l Alberta - Black Bears & Elk l Churchill - Breeding Arctic Birds and Polar Bears l Ontario & Quebec - Snowy Owls and Great Gray Owls United States: Alaska - Kodiak Bears & Bald Eagles l Florida - Raptors Asia: Borneo - Orangutans, Proboscis Monkey, Broadbills l India - Bengal Tigers and birds Africa: Botswana - Chobe River - Elephants and Hippos l Kenya &

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on an adventure and a once in a lifetime experience. Explore nature, share, learn and develop new levels of photographic

skills and leave with fantastic photographs and wonderful memories and new found friends.”

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ability to create stunning images of rare and nearly impossible birds to photograph. Today my images are well respected and represented around the world. I am an awardwinning photographer whose work is regularly featured in North American and Internationalnature books, calendars and publications. My work is regularly featured in magazines such as Audubon, Birdwatching, Canadian Wildlife, Birders World, and many more. My images regularly appear in books on birds including several by National Geographic. I have also published several books of my own including my most recent books Birds of Ecuador and Birds of Vancouver Island.My primary equipment includes Canon digital SLR camera bodies and an assortment of Canonlenses. By far the lens that sees the most use is the Canon 500mm F4 L often coupled with a1.4x Canon teleconverter. I also use the Canon 400mm F5.6L, 300mm F4L, 70-200mm F4Land the 17-40mm F4L for wide angle shots and landscape photography. I shoot most imagesusing a sturdy tripod. I use the Gitzo 3540 XLS carbon fiber tripod and a Wimberly gimbalhead. I use a variety of Canon flashes including the Canon 580EX II with a Better Beamer flashextender, 430EX and MR-14EX macro flash. In addition to my own photographic pursuits, I also lead instructional photographic workshops to exciting destinations throughout theAmericas. These tours are designed to take advantage of my extensive experience in thisregion and teach participants to capture their own spectacular images of tropical birds.

www.glennbartley.com

Portfolio

My love for photography started as a child many years ago in a backyard in Ontario,Canada. I was lying under a hummingbird feeder with a simple 35mm camera tryingdesperately to capture an image of these mesmerizing birds. The photos that I captured that day may not have been very good – but the experience led to a love of nature and photography that would one day blossom. Many years later I traveled to Australia for a university semester abroad. The opportunity motivated me to buy a capable camera and to learn more about the art of photography. In those days of slide film and with only a short telephoto zoom lens birds were, for the most part, still out of range. My passion for photography however was growing. Before long digital SLR’s became the norm and I had purchased a 300mm f/4 lens. I finally had a set up capable of capturing some good bird images. After completing my undergraduate degree in Environmental Studies I traveled to Costa Rica for 6 months to immerse myself in nature photography. That tripsolidified my love of bird photography and, from then on, much of my free time was spentlearning this craft. After achieving a Masters of Science degree in Ecological Restoration I once again set off for the New World Tropics. This time my goal was to spend 6 months in Ecuador and do nothing but bird photography. On this trip I practiced and developed mytechniques for tropical bird photography and especially multiflash hummingbird photography.By the time I returned to Canada many people were starting to take notice of my unique

The HummingbirdWhisperer

Glenn Bartley – A Wildlife Photographer in his own words

A selection of spectacular, unique portraits by a professional nature photographerfrom Canada - whose personal technique and intimate images of birds from the

Neotropical Region are admired, envied and imitated throughout the world

.

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Tufted Coquette - TrinidadOne of the most extravagan-tly adorned birds in theworld, the Tufted Coquettecan be found on the Islandof Trinidad.Camera Model: Canon EOS 7DShutter speed: 1/200 secAperture: 5.6Exposure compensation: -2/3Flash: OnISO: 800Lens: EF500mm f/4L IS USM+1.4x

Rainbow Starfrontlet - EcuadorMultiflash hummingbird photography works by eliminating most or all of the natural light

in the image. By controlling the light on the subject and background, using artificial

sources, the photographer can also control the duration of light that exposes the image.

If the flash fires for only 1/16000 of a second then only that brief moment is recorded in the image.

In this way the photographer can freeze the rapid wing beats of a hummingbird.

Camera Model: Canon EOS 50DShutter speed: 1/250 sec

Aperture: 9Flash: OnISO: 200

Lens: EF500mm f/4L IS USM

Portfolio60

Bearded Mountaineer – PeruEndemic to southern Peru, this species feeds most commonly at the Nicotina flower. This image was captured by waiting at the birds favourite flowering bush and using natural light.Camera Model: Canon EOS 7DShutter speed: 1/640 secAperture: 5.6Flash: OnISO: 400Lens: EF500mm f/4L IS USM +1.4x

Buff-tailed Coronet – EcuadorIn this classic multiflash hummingbird photograph the goal was to create

a natural looking scene using artificial light from 5 flashes, an artificial background and a staged flower.

Camera Model: Canon EOS 50DShutter speed: 1/250 sec

Aperture: 6.3Flash: OnISO: 200

Lens: EF500mm f/4L IS USM

Portfolio61

Ruby Topaz - TobagoThe iridescence of hummingbirds is often brought out by the positioning

of the flash/es. Would-be spectacular images may not live up to theirpotential if the delicate angle of iridescence is not successfully captured.

Camera Model: Canon EOS 7DShutter speed: 1/250 sec

Aperture: 8Flash: OnISO: 400

Lens: EF400mm f/5.6L USM

Portfolio62

Black-crested Coquette - Costa Rica

The Coquette’s are some of the smallestand cutest hummingbirds. They are

typified by not only their small size, butalso the amazing ornamental feathers

that the male birds possess. Camera Model: Canon EOS 7D

Shutter speed: 1/4000 secAperture: 5.6

Flash: OffISO: 800

Lens: EF500mm f/4L IS USM +1.4x

Wire-crested Thorntail - PeruThe long tail and strange head feathersof the Wire-crested Thorntail give it an “out-of-this-world” appearance.

Camera Model: Canon EOS 7DShutter speed: 1/1000 secAperture: 5.6Flash: OffISO: 800Lens: EF500mm f/4L IS USM +1.4x

Portfolio63

Fiery-throated Hummingbird - Costa RicaA truly spectacular species of the Costa Rican highlands, the Fiery-throated Hummingbird has an iridescent throat that is unlike any other hummingbird. Camera Model: Canon EOS 7DShutter speed: 1/640 secAperture: 5.6Flash: OnISO: 800Lens: EF300mm f/4L IS USM

White-necked Jacobin - EcuadorThe White-necked Jacobin is one of the most wide ranging tropicalhummingbird species. It is easy to identify by its unique blue headand contrasting white neck. Camera Model: Canon EOS 50DShutter speed: 1/250 secAperture: 7.1Flash: OnISO: 200Lens: EF300mm f/4L IS USM

Portfolio 64

GreatSapphirewing -EcuadorOne of the largest hummingbirds in theworld, the GreatSapphirewing lives inthe highlands of theAndes. Their largewings beat slower thanmany smaller speciesgiving them an appearance that almostresembles a large butterfly.Camera Model: CanonEOS 50DShutter speed: 1/250 secAperture: 8Flash: OnISO: 200Lens: EF300mm f/4L ISUSM

Sword-billedHummingbird -

EcuadorThe Sword-billed

Hummingbird has anunbelievably long bill. It is so long and heavy

that these birds mustperch with their bills

straight up in the air orrisk tipping over.

Watching these birdssip nectar from the long

tubular flowers high inthe Andes, it is easy to

see how these birdshave evolved alongwith the flowers that

they feed upon.Camera Model: Canon

EOS 50DShutter speed: 1/250 sec

Aperture: 8Flash: OnISO: 200

Lens: EF300mm f/4L ISUSM +1.4x

Portfolio65

Portfolio

Marvelous Spatuletail - PeruPerhaps the most spectacular of all the hummingbirds, the Marvelous Spatuletail lives only in a smallarea in Northern Peru. The males have incredibly long tails that truly must be seen to be believed.Camera Model: Canon EOS 7DShutter speed: 1/250 secAperture: 7.1Flash: OnISO: 200Lens: EF500mm f/4L IS USM

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Portfolio

Gray-chinned Hermit - EcuadorThe Hermits are not the most flashy of all the hummingbirds. Generally gray and brown with decurved bills, these birds often feed at the flowers of Heliconia plants. (1)Camera Model: Canon EOS 50DShutter speed: 1/250 secAperture: 9Flash: OnISO: 200Lens: EF500mm f/4L IS USM

1

2

Violet Sabrewings - Costa RicaA large hummingbird of the cloud forests of Costa Rica, the Violet Sabrewings is trulyunmistakable. (2)Camera Model: Canon EOS 7DShutter speed: 1/200 secAperture: 6.3Flash: OnISO: 250Lens: EF300mm f/4L IS USM

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Portfolio

Rufous-crested Coquette - PeruSometimes a simple portrait of a speciesallows the viewer to best admire the characteristics of these amazing birds.Camera Model: Canon EOS 7DShutter speed: 1/400 secAperture: 5.6Flash: OnISO: 400Lens: EF500mm f/4L IS USM +1.4x

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Portfolio

Violet-crowned Woodnymph - Costa RicaHummingbirds, like all birds, must bathe to keep their feathers clean. These birds are

also very habitual about where they take their baths. This image was captured using amulti flash technique at a location where I had seen hummingbirds bathing repeatedly.

After waiting for several days I finally captured an image of one of these beautiful birdsemerging from the water.

Camera Model: Canon EOS 7DShutter speed: 1/200 sec

Aperture: 5.6Flash: OnISO: 800

Lens: EF500mm f/4L IS USM +1.4x

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ECUADOR COSTA RICA VANCOUVER ISLAND

CHURCHILL PERU PHOTOSHOP & PRIVATE LESSONS

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70

The complex relationship between several species of gobies and their commensalshrimps offers a fascinating example of marine symbiosis

Spotlight

HEREGOOGLE EARTH COORDINATES HERE

Shrimp goby species con often be very colorful - this is

the Yellow Shrimp GobyCryptocentrus cinctus.Note the commensal

alpheid shrimp standing by its side.

THE SECRET SOCIAL LIFE OF SHRIMP GOBIES

TWO IS A COMPANYTHE SECRET SOCIAL LIFE OF SHRIMP GOBIES

TWO IS A COMPANY

Severalspecies arelittle known andeasily confused- this is a BlackShrimp GobyCryptocentrusfasciatus withits attendantalpheid shrimp.

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TEXT BY ANDREA FERRARIPHOTOS BY ANDREA & ANTONELLA FERRARI

We have a fetish for shrimpgobies. They admittedly are anacquired taste – a bit like our ownEnglish Bull Terriers – since one mustknow them well to fully appreciate theirbeauty and curious habits, but once it’sgot you you’re done for good. Westarted being intrigued by them duringour countless dives in the shallowwaters of the Ligitan Reefs of Borneo.Japanese divers – always sensitive tobeauty that requires a great deal ofpatience – are very fond of them, andit was their frequent visits there thatgradually spread the passion aboutthese little gems so commonly observedaround their own island of Okinawa.Most divers however simply ignore themajority of shrimp gobies or won’t evensee them at all, since these bottom-dwelling little fish are very shy andalert, and always ready to bolt downtheir tunnel dug in the substrate at theearliest sign of disturbance: but thosewho are shown them and take the timeto patiently observe their antics willusually and easily fall for them.

IT’S ALL ABOUT SHARING

Shrimp gobies are so called becausethey usually share their oblique burrowwith a blind alpheid shrimp, which firstdigs the tunnel and then keeps it ingood shape and clean of debris; thisassociation is species-specific (ie gobiesbelonging to a certain species willusually be found together with shrimps

continued on page 74 ›

72

The Metallic ShrimpGoby Amblyeleotris

fasciata is one of the mostcolorful species belonging

to this group of fascinating, small-sized benthic fish.

73

Clockwise,from top left:Yellow ShrimpGobyCryptocentruscinctus; top right,DiagonalShrimp GobyAmbyeleotrisdiagonalis;bottom right,Ray-fin ShrimpGobyTomiyamichthyssp.; bottom left,Broad-bandedShrimp GobyAmblyeleotrisperiophtalma.

74

observe one single goby sharing itsburrow with not one but two shrimps(presumably a pair), and yet it is muchrarer finding two gobies sharing theirtunnel with a single shrimp.

SILENT COMMUNICATION

The symbiotic behavior of the two smallcreatures is quite fascinating to watch.

burrow with an equally tiny shrimp, sotheir relationship must start at a veryearly age. From what we have seen itwould seem logical to deduct that –once settled on the substrate afterleaving the larval stage – the tinyshrimp digs a small burrow and thenopenly advertises its “for rental” sign,hoping to attract a young goby lookingfor a house. It is also very common to

of a particular species, and vice versa)and while being commonly observed, itis still far from being fully understood.First of all, when does it start? And, likethe chicken and the egg story, whichcomes first? Does the goby look for hisshrimp or is it the opposite? We haveoccasionally observed extremely smallgobies (ie less than two centimeterslong) already sharing a miniature

Showy, unmistakable and larger than mostshrimp gobies, this is the beautiful Orange-spotted Shrimp GobyAmblyeleotris guttata.

continued on page 77 ›

75

One of themost strikingand easilyidentified Indo-Pacific speciesof shrimpgobies - this is the SailfinShrimp GobyAmblyeleotrisrandalli.

76The stunning Black Sailfin

Shrimp Goby Flabelligobiussp. is very rarely observed by divers and it is usually found in pairs.

77

The blind (or semi-blind) shrimpfrantically and industriously movesaround, in and out of the little tunnel,reinforcing its perennially crumblingwalls and cleaning its opening fromfallen grains of sand and lit t lebothersome pebbles, looking at alleffects like a busy and very tidycaterpillar/prime mover/housekeeper(some actually believe the burrow isfully rebuilt every day); while the oftenwildy colorful goby commonly sits out inthe open just in front of the opening ofthe burrow, perching on its ventral finsand keeping its little frog-eyed headwell proud and high, attentivelyscanning the surroundings for any signof intruders of impending danger. Infact, a good trick you can learn from usold hands is to check for the presence of

gobies from high above, hovering afew meters off the substrate andcarefully scanning the sand below forthe tell-tale foot-long shallow trenchesleft in the soft bottom by the skipping ofthe goby.

THE ODD COUPLE

But back to our odd couple. As soon asanother goby approaches, our veryterritorial and pugnacious little fish willdefiantly display in all its iridescentglory, jumping up and down, greatlyagitated, flaring its gil ls, widelyopening its dorsal fins and stretching itsmouth open in the effort to intimidate itsadversary: it may even happen that thetwo competitors will lock jaws and enterin a strong-arm contest, frantically

Morevariations

on a commontheme: right,

top, DiagonalShrimp GobyAmblyeleotris

diagonalis;right, bottom,

Red MarginShrimp GobyAmblyeleotris

gymnocephala;far right, top, aCryptocentrus

sp.. Noteattendant

alpheidshrimps, all

belonging todifferentspecies.

continued on page 80 ›

78

Restricted to siltybottoms in turbid waters,

the Singapore ShrimpGoby Cryptocentrus

singapurensis is a rarelyencountered,

spectacularly-markedspecies of relatively

large size.

79

Beautiful but more shy than otherspecies, this is thespectacularly-patternedFlag-tailShrimp GobyAmblyeleotrisyanoi.

80

pushing each other in a swirl of mudand sand, dangerously oblivious of anypassing predator, but most disputes arenormally solved by displaying alone.These brief contests offer greatopportunities to patient photographers!If however the intruder is not anotherconspecific goby but a larger creature(or a diver), our li t t le fish willimmediately alarm its shrimp partner,invariably waiting for it to disappearfirst down the tunnel before following itin a flash. Careful observation of thebehavior of the two species will reveal

that communication between themoccurs by the continuous use ofantennae (by the shrimp) and thecaudal fin (by the goby). The alarmedor puzzled shrimp will delicately andrepeatedly touch the back of the alertgoby with its long antennae, asquestioning its partner about thesituation; the fully alerted goby will thencommunicate its state of excitement tothe shrimp by using a fast series ofalmost imperceptible tail movements,which will most often prelude to thedisappearance of both down the

Another bejewelled,finely ornamented

species is the beautifulSteinitz’s Shrimp GobyAmblyeleotris steinitzi.

As most othersuperficially similar

species, it features apale, dark-barred livery.

continued on page 82 ›

81

A MetallicShrimp GobyAmblyeleotrisfasciatacaught outsideof its burrow.Notice how in gobies thespecializedventral fins are used to perch on the substrate.

burrow (in which, by the way, bothspend the night, comfortably sealed inby the daily masonry of the industriousshrimp). Isn’t it amazing? These twocompletely different and unrelatedspecies actually talk to each other! Wewould like to see some detailed studieson the tail movement patterns, as weare convinced the goby can and willpass completely different messages,depending on the situation and “alert”status. Some patterns actually evenseem to reassure the shrimp of a pastdanger, being the equivalent of ahuman pat on the shoulder.Shrimp gobies are commonly found onsoft, sand or silt substrates, from veryshallow to very deep but always insheltered areas. Several species areexquisitely camouflaged for living on

coral rubble bottoms, others arespectacularly marked with colorful –usually red – banding and iridescentmetallic green, blue and gold dotting.Some species are quite gregarious andlive in spread-out colonies with sharplydefined ranges, others seem to preferdeeper water or current-swept areas.Prime hunting areas in the central Indo-Pacific area for goby-obsessed diversand photographers include most ofSabah’s shores (Kota Kinabalu,Mantanani, Mataking, Lankayan,Mabul and Kapalai), Manado and theLembeh Strait in Northern Sulawesi,Bali and several locations in thePhilippines, but the truth is they’re foundalmost anywhere on shallow sand or siltbottoms, even close to brackishestuaries and mangrove forests.

Top right,Gorgeous

Shrimp GobyAmblyeleotris

wheeleri; bottom right, a displaying

Yellow Shrimp GobyCryptocentruscinctus, whose

dark phasedemonstrates the difficultiesencountered

when trying toidentify shrimp

goby species in the field;

far right, top, a spectacularBlack Sailfin

Shrimp GobyFlabelligobius sp.

continued on page 84 ›

82

83

The Broad-banded Shrimp Goby Ambyeleotris periophtalma -albeit extremely variable in its livery - is one of the mostcommonly encountered species in Indo-Pacific coastal waters.

84

UNDERWATER PHOTOTIPS

Observing and photographing shrimpgobies requires a Zen-like attitude andgreat psychological focusing, and thisis why the Japanese are so good at it.These small benthic fishes are extremelywary subjects, and they often take along time to reappear after they havebeen spooked into their burrow, so it isquite common to devote one full dive tophotographing just one or two of them.You will need to be alone and to beready to lie down on the sand for longperiods, minimizing breathing andmovement, using every air intake andsubsequent rise in buoyancy to pushyourself a little further. Some can besurprisingly compliant, but be preparedfor a lot of frustration, as most will waitfor you to be ready to click beforedisappearing in a flash down theirtunnel. All require a great deal ofpatience and almost completeimmobility on the bottom for extendedperiods of time to be fully observed andphotographed, but their beauty andinteresting habits have few rivals in themacro realm of underwater critters. .

Like severalother deep-dwelling speciesrestricted toturbid watersand very silty,muddy bottoms,this dazzlingVanderhorstiasp. is stunninglyiridescent. Such species are veryuncommonlyobserved by non-specializeddivers.

A very unusualsight as twoYellow ShrimpGobiesCryptocentruscinctus share aburrow and eventwo commensalshrimps - this is a foursome!

85

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It’s a dark, moonless night in the South African lowveldt.As the invisible rays of our friend Donald Strydom’s ultra-violet light shine on it, the huge Flat Rock ScorpionHadogenes troglodytes freezes for a few seconds, bathedin the mesmerizing glow of an eerie blue-green lumine-scence. Open-mouthed, we stare in utter fascination - aplain brown-black in daylight like most of its brethren, thescorpion is now burning a pale blue fire, emitting its ownglowing light. We had already observed the phenome-non of bioluminescence while diving at night in tropical

seas, but never on dry land. Bioluminescence is definedas the production and emission of light by a living orga-nism as the result of a chemoluminescence reaction duringwhich chemical energy is converted to light energy.Scorpions - technically speaking - are not bioluminescent,since they only fluoresce under external exposure to UVlight at 365 nm. We don’t really know much how thishappens, or in fact even why. Their fluorescence might bea form of sun block, signaling dangerous levels of radia-tion (which seems rather unlikely, given that most if not all

scorpion species are strictly nocturnal today); an evolutio-nary trait/adaptation in feeding and/or attracting prey;an evolutionary trait developed to attract a mate; and,perhaps best of all, a phenomenon which “plays no bio-logical role” at all, according to some. Given that today’sscorpions are basically land-based “crabs” from themiddle Silurian - a period dating back to more than 400million years ago - their fluorescence is then, quite possi-bly, an inherited artifact of a biological adaptation fromthe deep seas they originally came from. .

ThePartingShot

86

AN ALIEN MICROCOSMKurt aka Orionmystery’s

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