Ancient Grains Issue 2 2011

8/12/2019 Ancient Grains Issue 2 2011

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N O R T H A M E R I C A

P A S T R Y &B A KI NGNOR T HA ME R I CA

VOL UME 5

S S UE 2 2 0 1 1

W W W . P A S T R Y N A . C O M

Volume 5 Issue 2 2011

Franck Iglesias

Della Fattoria


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25.00 Bread flour 0.348

75.00 Whole spelt flour 1.045

100.00 Water 1.394

0.20 Salt 0.003

0.10 Yeast (dry instant) 0.001

200.30 Total 2.792

Bakers % Ingredients Weight (kg)

Spelt Poolish

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Ancient Grains

Publishers Note: The San Francisco BakingInstitute (SFBI) is a world-renowned leader inartisan bread and pastry education and consulting.More information on SFBI can be found atwww.sfbi.com.

Miyuki Togi works with SFBI as a bread,viennoiserie, and pastry instructor, and as theproduction manager for Thorough Bread andPastry.

By Miyuki TogiPhotography by Tchell DePaepe

Spelt was commonly used in the United States fromthe late 1800s until the early 1900s, when the modernwheat took over the market. The popularity of speltwas redeemed in the late 1980s and has beenincreasing ever since Spelt is similar in compositionto wheat, but its proteins are more fragile and thegrain is easier to digest. Because of the fragileproteins, breads containing high percentages of speltflour require shorter mixing times to prevent theprotein structure from collapsing. Spelt flour isavailable either as whole or white; in this formula,we chose to use 20% whole spelt flour to showcasethe natural flavor of the grain itself.

When working with any type of whole grain flour,keep in mind that the high bran content will triggerhigher fermentation activity. Bran is rich in minerals,which become nutrients for yeast and bacteria. Youmay need to lower the yeast or levain percentages inorder to compensate for the activity level. Also,adding a small amount of salt to any whole grainpreferment helps regulate the fermentation speed.

In this formula, a large portion of flour (about47% of total flour) is prefermented, creating a very active, gassy dough, which is ideal to make ciabattawith. This formula contains three types of preferments: spelt poolish, whole wheat sponge andliquid levain. The spelt poolish gives a sweet, nutty aroma, and the whole wheat sponge provides strengthand an earthy flavor to the dough. Liquid levain addsextra extensibility to the dough, and the naturalacidity from the levain prolongs the shelflife of thefinal product.

This versatile dough can be used to prepare many

different products. You can make rolls simply by cutting the dough into smaller pieces, or it can alsobe baked on an oiled sheetpan with toppings to makefocaccia. Olives, herbs or other inclusions can beadded at the end of mixing to create many flavorvariations.

We hope you enjoy this recipe. Feel free to contactus with any questions.

EquipmentsSpiral mixerPlastic scraperDough binsDusting flourBench knifeProofing boardsCouche

FormulaYield: 20, 500g ciabatta loaves

Mix all ingredients until well incorporated with D.D.T. of 70 F.Allow to ferment 12 hours at room temperature (65 - 70 F)


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2.1.


100.00 Water 0.349

40.00 Liquid Starter 0.140

240.00 Total 0.838


Liquid Levain


100.00 Whole wheat flour 0.619

80.00 Water 0.495

0.20 Salt 0.001


80.30 Total 1.117


Whole Wheat Sponge



59.00 Water 1 1.647


3.60 Salt 0.101

100.00 Spelt poolish 2.792

40.00 Whole wheat sponge 1.117

30.00 Liquid Levain 0.838

25.00 Water 2 0.698

358.20 Total 10.000


Final Dough


20.01 Whole spelt flour 1.045

11.86 Whole wheat flour 0.619

89.08 Water 4.653


2.00 Salt 0.105

191.44 Total 10.000


Total Fomula

After mixing, dough appears very wet and soft but still maintainsthe strength. It should form a well developed window. Place 5kg of dough per oiled dough bin. Bulk ferment the dough at78 F for 2 hours with a fold every 45 minutes, 2 folds total.

1. Adjust the water temperatureto achieve a desired doughtemperature of 73-76 F. Placethe bread flour, water 1, yeastand salt in the mixing bowl.

2. Add the liquid levain.3. Add the spelt poolish.4. Add the whole wheat sponge.5. Mix on first speed for 5

minutes, occasionally scraping the mixing bowl.

6. Mix on second speed for 3 to4 minutes, until the doughreaches a strong improvedmix.

7. Add water 2 in 3 stages on second speed. Make sure all thewater is incorporated after each addition.

4.3.

6.5.

7.


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8. After 45 minutes of bulk fermentation time,give a stretch and fold. First, dust the benchwith some flour.

9-10. Deposit the dough onto the floured bench.Pick up one side of the dough with twohands, stretch and fold it over the center.Repeat the same process with other 3 sides.Place the dough back in the bin. Giveanother stretch and fold after 45 moreminutes.

11. After 2 hours of bulk fermentation, doughshould double in size and feel light andairy. Deposit the dough onto a well dustedbench, and dust the top of the dough.

12. By gently pressing the dough without

degassing, form the dough intoapproximately 20x30 rectangle.13. Cut into 10, 10x6 rectangles as shown.14. Place the cut pieces onto a floured couche.

Let the loaves proof for 30 minutes at 78 F.15. Place the loaves floured side up on the

loader. Bake at 450 F oven for 20 minuteswith vent closed, then 8-10 more minuteswith vent open (total bake time is 28-30minutes).

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Ancient Grains Issue 2 2011

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