AN ISSUE OF WOMEN’S WEAR DAILYAN ISSUE OF WOMEN S WEAR DAILY

RISING STARBEHIND THE SCENES AT NEW YORK FASHION

WEEK WITH BREAKOUT BEAUTY JULIJA STEP

CAMERA READY AT JILL STUART

BACKSTAGE AT ALTUZARRA

UP CLOSE AND PERSONAL AT J.MENDEL

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THE CALM BEFORE THE STORM

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BEING READIED AT RICHARD CHAI LOVE THE BIG TEASE AT DIESEL BLACK GOLD

STRUTTING HER STUFF AT DKNY A CLEAN SWEEP AT PROENZA SCHOULER

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WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2010 FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.VOLUME 200, NO. 103, November 13, 2010. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in January, May, June and December, two additional issues in March, April, August, September, October and November, and three additional issues in February) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Offi cer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, Chief Operating Offi cer & Chief Financial Offi cer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Offi cer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offi ces. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615 5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. Subscribers: If the Post Offi ce alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within

one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfi ed with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax the request to 212-630-5883. For reprints of articles, please contact Scoop ReprintSource at 800-767-3263 or via e-mail at sales@scoopreprintsource.com. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Group magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE.

ON THE COVERJulija Step photographed for WWD Beauty Biz by Guy Aroch during

New York Fashion Week.

WWDBEAUTYBIZ CONTENTSMOD

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THIS MONTH: FOLLOWING THE FOOTSTEPS OF RISING STAR JULIJA STEP DURING FASHION’S BIGGEST MONTH; EXAMINING THE NEW FRONTIER OF BARELY THERE PLASTIC SURGERY AND CELEBRATING BEAUTY’S EMERGING SENSE OF OPTIMISM.

06 COMING CLEAN Unkempt scruff took a backseat to a sleeker aesthetic at the men’s spring collections, where hair was freshly barbered and fashioned into slick styles.

08 PEOPLE, PLACES & LIPSTICKSChatting with Willow Smith’s (genius!) hairstylist, life lessons with fearless model-cum-agent Jenny Shimizu and a bright new retail concept Down Under.

10 WHAT’S IN STORECelebratory gift sets, reparative hair treatments, soothing skin care and sophisticated grooming items for the modern gentleman dominate this month’s launch list.

14 VISION QUEST: IN PARIS WITH JENNIFER BALBIERProduct developer extraordinaire Jennifer Balbier shares her coolest fi nds from a recent trip to Paris.

15 INSIDE OUT: GINGER First used in Asia more than 3,000 years ago, ginger has traveled from the ancient spice route to a host of beauty launches this fall.

16 BEAUTY INCOGNITO: HOLIDAY FRAGRANCEFive male reporters head out on an undercover mission to report back on how male-friendly the fragrance shopping environment is.

20 HONORS SOCIETYThere was laughter and tears (the good kind!) among beauty’s elite, as they gathered at the 2010 CEW Achiever Awards and the Fragrance Foundation’s Circle of Champions events last month.

22 THE BIG EASYHairstylists and makeup artists unleashed their inner optimism on the spring runways. The result was playful and optimistic, with uplifting splashes of color, superglowy skin and the return of the blonde bombshell.

28 HOLLYWOOD’S NEW NATURALTinseltown is entering a new defl ationary era, as over-puffed and over-plumped faces and bodies give way to a more—dare we say—human ideal.

32 WHIZ KIDTeen beauty Julija Step walked in a stellar 42 fashion shows with the poise of a seasoned pro. Here, photogra-pher Guy Aroch chronicles the rising star’s chameleonlike good looks backstage at New York Fashion Week.

38 KATE HUDSONThe low-maintenance Hollywood mom and actress talks plastic surgery, paparazzi dodging and the secret ingredients of her beauty-enhancing green juice.

EYE SHADOW BLUSH LIP COLOR NAIL COLOR

18% 19% 21% 20%SOUTH ATLANTIC

24% 20% 22% 26%PACIFIC

100% 100% 100% 100%TOTAL U.S.

16% 19% 18% 21%MIDDLE ATLANTIC

CORRECTION: TOP THREE U.S. MAKEUP REGIONS

Source: The NPD Group

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4 WWD BEAUTY BIZ

For those who question the direction in which beauty is evolving, look no further than the spring runways. In Paris, in Milan, in London and in New York, makeup artists and hairstylists put forward a compelling new vision. Based on a more relaxed sensibility, it embraces an ease and a vivacity that feels particularly fresh now. The look was manifested in the liberal use of bright colors, which makeup artists swept across eyes, cheeks and lips; in the myriad Seventies infl uences that permeated so many shows, and in the preponderance of blonde models who dominated the runways. “We are living through diffi cult times,” Leatrice Eiseman of the Pantone Color Institute says in “The Big Easy” on page 22, “and we need that lift, that something that gets us energized. That’s color.”

In addition to the liberal use of bright color, “The Big Easy” also features the spring’s key hair and makeup moments from the runways of Paris, Milan and London. As you’ll see, it was a rich season for beauty, with key themes that also included a strong androgynous streak and the return of the thirtysomething supermodel, including Stella Tennant, Carolyn Murphy and Amber Valletta, a welcome sign that designers are eager to embrace a new cross-generational aesthetic.

Count this issue’s cover model, rising star Julija Step, as among those who revere these models as well. The high-spirited 17-year-old has charmed style insiders with her chameleonlike looks and effervescent personality, walking in 42 shows this season. Despite her growing success, the high school student remains fi rmly down-to-earth. Ask her who her favorite model is, and Step’s reply is instant: “Everybody. Every single model who is doing well in the fashion business has her own charm, and I admire all of them.” Step’s transformational abilities are on full view in “Whiz Kid” on page 32, in which photographer Guy Aroch captured the model in her many manifestations backstage at New York Fashion Week.

It’s not just the runway where a new aesthetic is emerging. Hollywood, too, is undergoing a seismic shift in traditional notions of beauty. Gone is the more-is-more infl ated-Barbie ideal. In its stead is a more, dare we say, realistic version of ideal beauty. As Rachel Brown reports in “Hollywood’s New Natural” on page 28, “The Hollywood ideal is giving way to something approaching human.” Of course, that doesn’t mean celebrities are forgoing procedures. They’re most decidedly not. But the procedures are changing, and so is the look. Whether on the runway or the red carpet, the look is one we can all relate to—and that’s great news for beauty as we head into the new year. —JENNY B. FINE

EDITOR’S LETTER

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“THE HOLLYWOOD IDEAL IS GIVING WAY TO SOMETHING APPROACHING HUMAN,” WRITES RACHEL BROWN.

BRIGHT HORIZONS

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MASTHEAD

PETE BORN EXECUTIVE EDITOR, BEAUTYJENNY B. FINE EDITOR

JENNIFER WEIL EUROPEAN EDITORANDREA NAGEL MASS MARKET BEAUTY EDITORJULIE NAUGHTON SENIOR PRESTIGE MARKET BEAUTY EDITORMOLLY PRIOR BEAUTY FINANCIAL EDITORMATTHEW W. EVANS BEAUTY NEWS EDITORBRID COSTELLO LONDON BEAUTY EDITORFAYE BROOKMAN CONTRIBUTING EDITOR BELISA SILVA EDITORIAL ASSISTANTLISA KELLY SENIOR COPY EDITORBEN CAKE COPY EDITOR

ARTDANILO MATZ ART DIRECTORPAMELA OLECKI CONSULTING ART DIRECTOR

CONTRIBUTORSSAMANTHA CONTI AND NINA JONES (LONDON), MILES SOCHA (PARIS), KERRY OLSEN (MILAN), MARCY MEDINA AND RACHEL BROWN (LOS ANGELES), MELISSA DRIER AND SUSAN STONE (BERLIN), ELIZABETH THURMAN (ATLANTA), AMANDA KAISER AND KOJI HIRANO (TOKYO)

PHOTOGRAPHERSJOHN AQUINO, GEORGE CHINSEE, STEVE EICHNER, KYLE ERICKSEN, THOMAS IANNACCONE, ROBERT MITRA

PHOTOANITA BETHEL PHOTO DIRECTORERIN FITZGERALD PHOTO COORDINATORCARRIE PROVENZANO PHOTO EDITORLEXIE MORELAND, ASHLEY LINN MARTIN PHOTO COORDINATORS

PATRICK MCCARTHY CHAIRMAN, FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUPEDWARD NARDOZA EDITOR IN CHIEF, WWD, ASSOCIATE EDITORIAL DIRECTOR, FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUPPETER W. KAPLAN EDITORIAL DIRECTOR, FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP

BEAUTY BIZ ADVERTISINGALISON ADLER MATZ PUBLISHER, BEAUTY BIZ CYNTHIA BONIELLO BEAUTY MANAGERJILL BIREN WEST COAST DIRECTORODILE EDA-PIERRE ACCOUNT MANAGER, PARISSUZANNE REINHARDT SENIOR EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, FINANCE AND BUSINESS OPERATIONS, FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUPKAREN CHIU BUSINESS DIRECTOR, FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUPDEVON BEEMER FINANCE DIRECTOR, FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP JANET JANOFF GENERAL MANAGER, WWD

MARKETING/PROMOTION HEATHER GUMBLEY EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, CREATIVE SERVICESJANET MENAKER MARKETING DIRECTORDANIELLE MCMURRAY SPECIAL PROJECTS DIRECTORKRISTEN M. WILDMAN DIRECTOR, EVENT MARKETINGJENNIFER PINCUS DIRECTOR, INTEGRATED MARKETINGBENJAMIN GELINAS DESIGN DIRECTOR DIANE HUNTLEY COPY DIRECTORJAIME MCCARTHY ASSOCIATE DIRECTOR, INTEGRATED MARKETINGBRIDGIT MAZZA SENIOR MANAGER, INTEGRATED MARKETINGTING WANG MANAGER, EVENT MARKETINGDANIELLE K. STEWART COORDINATOR, INTEGRATED MARKETING

PRODUCTIONGENA KELLY EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, MANUFACTURING & DISTRIBUTIONCHRIS WENGIEL GROUP PRODUCTION DIRECTORKEVIN HURLEY PRODUCTION DIRECTORJILL BREINER ASSOCIATE PRODUCTION MANAGER

CIRCULATIONDAN DYNAN EXECUTIVE DIRECTORJOHN CROSS ASSOCIATE AUDIENCE DEVELOPMENT DIRECTOR, PLANNING AND OPERATIONSJAMES ROSSI MARKETING DIRECTORRICHARD FRANZ CIRCULATION/SALES DIRECTOR

FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUPWILL SCHENCK CHIEF REVENUE OFFICER DEBI CHIRICHELLA CHIEF OPERATING OFFICERMELISSA BRECHER ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER, MARKETINGMICHAEL ATMORE EDITORIAL DIRECTOR, FOOTWEAR NEWS & DIRECTOR OF BRAND DEVELOPMENT DAN SCHEFFEY DIRECTOR OF PUBLIC RELATIONS

GINA SANDERS PRESIDENT & CEO

A FAIRCHILD PUBLICATION

WWD BEAUTY BIZ 5

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6 WWD BEAUTY BIZ

LONGLong, fl owing locks lent an individualistic vibe to some shows. Rather than the boho bearded direction of seasons past, though, even longer styles were cleaned up with freshly barbered faces.

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When it comes to men’s grooming, scruff has been replaced by smart, as an elegant new aesthetic emerges.BY ALEX BADIA

GOOD LOOKING

6 WWD BEAUTY BIZ

COMINGCLEAN

MARC BY MARC JACOBS

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

MICHAEL KORS

VERSACE

JOHN VARVATOS

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WWD BEAUTY BIZ 7

GOOD LOOKING

FRINGEControlled texture made for a fresh, confi dent direction, embellished with longer fringes that swooped over the forehead. Enhanced sometimes with curl, at other times left straight, the look was cool rather than contrived.

At the recent men’s spring collections, designers agreed that it was time to shave off the models’ trendy retro beards and present their wares on men with a freshly barbered look. Within that refreshing trend, two major—and contrasting—hairstyle options emerged: the fringe and, its opposite, the slick.

One of the most directional fringe styles was seen at Jil Sander, where designer Raf Simons kicked off the spring season with a multicolored collection shown at an old-style imperial Italian villa. The models’ textured hair matched accordingly. The longer fringe, with a slight curl over the forehead, was the 2011 incarnation of the Julius Caesar cut, also known as the Regency hairstyle. Brands such as Burberry, Gucci and Neil Barrett also went for the Roman emperor’s look.

Phillip Lim drew inspiration from classic icons such as Steve McQueen to create a modern-dandy sensibility. “The look is about a guy with a fresh-faced naïve allure and an effortless rocker edge,” says Laurent Philippon of

Bumble and bumble, the hairstylist who created the look. “Phillip envisions a man who is cool and sophisticated, youthful and rebellious, confi dent in his ways—some even say cocky.” This effortless rocker look featured a matte-textured long fringe, cropped on the sides with a low side part. Volume on top, together with the soft wave featuring depth and separation, created the desired soft-rebel effect.

At Viktor & Rolf, beach fringe was the look du jour. “We thought of the Forties fi lm star very dressed up, but on the beach,” said Viktor Horsting backstage at the show. The multilayered and extreme textured fringe, executed with a precise and controlled styling, conjured a beachy yet elegant hairdo. Within this coastal bohemian sensibility, a subliminal longer-hair trend appeared. John Varvatos executed the look to perfection with a soft romantic rocker attitude that felt elegant and fresh while maintaining a masculine street credibility.

On the slick side landed designers such as Duckie Brown and Emporio Armani. “We wanted to exercise

restraint and control by having a superclean slick-hair look that showed the minimalism and modernism direction of the spring collection,” said Duckie Brown designers Steven Cox and Daniel Silver, when asked about the hair inspiration for the show. They described it this way: “A pure thing, tight to the scalp and swept off the face to show the models’ angular features.” Their slick style included a dramatic classic part that complemented the designers’ experimentation with volume and proportions.

Ann Demeulemeester and Emporio Armani displayed the most severe slick, glossy styles, channeling edgy military infl uences for their shows. Demeulemeester’s obsession with pulchritude led to a show of lean and spotless uniform-inspired silhouettes in which the extreme coiffed hair emphasized the overall regimented, minimalistic collection. At Emporio, Armani spiced things up with a display of risqué black leather military attire that, together with blue eye shadow and drastic gelled-back hair, made for quite a spectacle.

SLICKShiny and severe were the names of the game at designers like Duckie Brown and Dior Homme, where a spare, clean look with a deep side part emerged as one of the season’s major statements.

EMPORIO ARMANI

SIMON SPURR

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

DIOR HOMME

DUCKIE BROWN

BOTTEGA VENETA 3.1 PHILLIP LIMJIL SANDER

PRINGLE OF SCOTLAND VIKTOR & ROLFHERMÈS

RICHARD CHAI

DUCKIE BROWN

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8 WWD BEAUTY BIZ

People, Places & Lipsticks

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SERGE NORMANT

As hairstylist to some of Hollywood’s most beautiful women, Serge Normant knows how to make a head of hair look good. Come December, the star stylist will unveil his eponymous line, a streamlined regimen of products to make hair feel good, too. Infused with vegetable protein complex, botanical oils and good-for-you organics, the eight products were designed as a foolproof way for women to achieve Normant’s signature voluminous styles. “Great hair shouldn’t be a luxury,” says Normant. “I wanted to give women the tools to play with their own looks while improving hair health from the inside out.” His 30-year career tending to the heads of stars like Gisele Bündchen, Sarah Jessica Parker and Julia Roberts has given the stylist a fi rsthand view of women’s real hair needs. “I work in a world that can seem like a dream, but I love the reality of it all,” says Normant. Finding the perfect scent was the “hardest part” of the development process. “I didn’t want that stereotypical fl owery scent,” he says. “I liked the idea of a couple using the products together in the bathroom.” The result: a mildly musky scent, inspired by Moroccan sensuality and the casual elegance of the South of France. Priced from $24 to $60, the line is available on sergenormant.com. —BELISA SILVA

File under “Wish We Thought of That Idea.” Mecca Maxima, the latest retail concept by Australian beauty store chain Mecca Cosmetica, is “a unique combination of high touch and self-service—where the customers are in control, have a voice and can play as much as they want,” according to founder Jo Horgan. Spearheading the power-to-the-customer approach are “talking” shopping baskets, equipped with a plastic sign that reads “Busy Browsing” on

Discovered in 1993 by Calvin Klein for his gender-bending CK One campaign, Jenny Shimizu caused a sensation on the modeling scene—appearing in countless shows and photographed by the likes of Richard Avedon, Bruce Weber,

Irving Penn, Steven Meisel and Mario Sorrenti. Part of her appeal was her fearlessness. “The key to my success has been always saying yes to oppor-tunities,” says Shimizu. “I’ve always jumped right in.” Now, the 43-year-old hopes to pass the lesson along to a new generation of models as she steps behind the scenes as an agent and talent scout at the hip modeling agency Women Direct. For Shi-mizu, fi nding a new face is instinctual. “I look for a girl who evokes the qualities of a great oil painting or piece of art,” she says. “It’s a feeling that hits you

right in the chest.” Shimizu’s current role means she’s “on call 24 hours a day,” available as a mentor to her models. “Ninety percent of the time the girls hear ‘No,’ ” says Shimizu. “I remind them this career isn’t about any-thing personal. These jobs don’t shape you as a per-son. It could be worse;

I could be representing myself back in the Nineties,” jokes Shimizu, who says her experiences brought her full circle. “I had the street savvy of a model but

didn’t know what to do with it,” she says. “The stars have aligned and it’s paid off. It’s a gift to learn and grow with these girls.” —B.S.

one side and “I Need Help” on the other. Dedicated play stations turn up throughout the store’s seven sections of color, hair, skin care, body, fragrance, ac-cessories and nails. Customers can use touch screens to self-diagnose individual skin conditions or scan a product to reveal its pertinent information. For the service-oriented, staff wear badges emblazoned with titles according to their expertise, such as “Fragrance Expert” or “Makeup Artist.” Making its debut last month in Melbourne’s popular Central Shopping Centre, Mecca Maxima measures 2,000 square feet and retails 3,000 products by 100 brands, including a selection from Mecca and Kit (Horgan’s other retail concept), plus prestige names hitting Mecca’s shelves for the fi rst time, including Clinique, Clarins and Yves Saint Laurent. —STEPHANIE EPIRO

SHIMIZU IN HER MODELING

DAYS, ABOVE, AND SOME OF

THE YOUNG WOMEN SHE REPRESENTS

TODAY.

MAJOR LEAGUE

JULIA ROBERTS, A DEVOTED NORMANT CLIENT.

AND AIRY INTERIOR.

MECCA MAXIMA’S INVITING EXTERIOR...

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WWD BEAUTY BIZ 9

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There’s an air of nostalgia this holiday season, as a bevy of launches look to revive a vintage-beauty ideal. “Women [of the Fifties] spent

a lot of time perfecting their look, which remains classic and time-less,” says Bobbi Brown, whose holiday collection was inspired

by Marilyn-esque red lips. “I instantly thought of the classic red lip but wanted to do it differently,” says Brown. “[It’s] bright done right.” Likewise, Revlon’s Fire & Ice Collection features the brand’s iconic “lip and tip” pairings and vintage casings,

with actress Jessica Biel starring in a reimagined version of Revlon’s 1952 advertisement. Viktor

& Rolf’s holiday iteration of Flowerbomb dons a Fifties-era tulle skirt, while Dior’s Minaudiere

pays tribute to a vintage couture hand-bag. For Brown, the Fifties marked a

time when women didn’t shy away from color. “It was such a great time to be a woman,” she says. “Vintage beauty constantly inspires new ideas and collections.” —B.S.

with actress Jessversion of Re

& Rolf’s hola Fifties-era

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timfrotobean

Hairstylist Marcia Hamilton couldn’t have imagined a better showcase for her work than 10-year-old Willow Smith’s video “Whip My Hair.” In the four-minute video—which has been viewed more than 7 million times on YouTube—Hamilton created fi ve eye-popping looks for Smith, from a heart-shaped Mohawk to a pastel cotton-candy froth of frizz. The 33-year-old stylist, who works out of the Juan Juan Center in Beverly Hills, is a natural. “I’ve done every single thing to my hair except for a Jheri curl,” she laughs. BY RACHEL BROWNHOW DID YOU COME UP WITH THE “WHIP MY HAIR” HAIRSTYLES?They were a collaboration between Willow, Jada [Pinkett Smith, Willow’s mother], creative director Fawn Boardley and myself. Movement meant a lot—and also building off of wardrobe, as far as creating colors and the whole vibe. When we decided to dip the hair into paint and splash it around, that was scary because dipping your hair into paint can totally ruin a hairstyle. Then we came up with the idea of braids, and I thought that was perfect. TELL ME ABOUT THE HEART HAWK.Jada threw that out there [by saying], “What if we could put a heart in her hair?” Willow was like, “Yeah, let’s do it.” I didn’t panic, but I thought in the back of my head, “Oh s--t. How can I make that work?” I cut out a Styrofoam heart and made loads of individual braids out of extensions, and then I glued them onto the heart, very craft style. Putting it on Willow was a bit of a process. I wove her braids around the actual heart and pinned it and pulled the rest of it into a ponytail. Prepping it took the most time, about fi ve hours. WHAT ABOUT THE HAIRSTYLE YOU CALL THE COTTON-CANDY DREAM? Jada had a vision of a soft texture and asked, “Could I make it like cotton candy?” The process for that hair was about 36 hours. I created the extensions by blending the colors. I just wanted the color to be absolutely precise. To make it into the cotton-candy texture, I set it on hairpins, cooked it on a fl atiron and let it sit overnight. It was a process to create that texture, but seeing it come together was awesome.HOW MANY PEOPLE WORKED ON THE VIDEO? I had three assistants. I was in charge of Willow and the Warrior-ettes and background. I came up with the hairdos for the Warrio-rettes, created a storyboard and laid it out for my assistants. For Willow’s fi rst hairdo, we allotted an hour for hair and makeup, and everything else after was a quick 20-minute hair change. When you’re working with children, you don’t have that much time, because there are only so many hours that they can work. WHAT WAS IT LIKE WHEN YOU VIEWED THE “WHIP MY HAIR” VIDEO FOR THE FIRST TIME?I was in tears. ARE YOU SURPRISED BY ITS POPULARITY?

No, I’m happy about it. It’s a really cool song, and the biggest thing is the message. It’s about being who you are, being an individual, believing in your-self and having fun. It’s going to be an anthem for little girls and grown-up women, too.

DOES WILLOW SMITH HAVE THE MAKINGS OF A STYLE ICON?Totally. Her own personal style is crazy. Hairstylists want to be creative and go there, but you don’t always get that oppor-tunity. Willow thinks outside the box. I show up with a bag of hair and we come up with these amazing hairstyles. ARE MOHAWKS ONE OF YOUR SIGNATURE HAIRSTYLES?Defi nitely. I have done a ton of Mohawks. I’m defi nitely a little punk in my style. WHAT TIPS DO YOU HAVE FOR GIRLS WHO WANT TO EXPERIMENT WITH THEIR HAIR?Braid it in weird little ways. My mom showed me how to do a simple braid. That’s what got me started, parting my hair into different sections and doing fun little braids.

THE CAT’S MEOW

HAMILTON AND HER YOUNG CLIENT VAMPING IT UP.

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HELP EDUCATE & EMPOWER PEOPLE WITH CANCER TO THRIVE

IN THEIR WORKPLACE.

Benefiting CANCER AND CAREERSDecember 10th, 2010

Register Today!

WWW.CEW.ORG

THE BEAUTY OF GIVING

LUNCHEON & LIVE AUCTION

ATTEND

What’s In Store

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THESE FESTIVE HOLIDAY BEAUTY

KITS MAKE THE GIFT OF GIVING A BREEZE.

BY BELISA SILVAPHOTOGRAPHED BY GEORGE CHINSEE

SET DESIGN

01 BARE ESCENTUALS BARE MINERALS VIVID COLLECTION OF 20 EYE COLORSBare Escentuals has built a thriving community of brand aficionados who collect its eye shadows. They’ll swoon over the complete collection here, including two new shades, Maraschino, a matte raspberry, and Cha-cha, a shimmery strawberry hue. ($89; select Macy’s, Nordstrom, Ulta)

02 TOO FACED PIXIE PERFECT Find a full face of makeup within this limited edition pixie-bedecked cosmetics bag. The brand’s Shadow Insurance shadow primer, Lash Injection mascara and a set-exclusive eye quad make for a festive smoky eye, while a brightening bronzer and Glamour Gloss in Plush finish off a holiday look. ($45; Sephora, Ulta)

03 FRESH CRANBERRY OVAL SOAP TRIOThese triple-milled artisanal soaps are scented with notes of Chardonnay, aged Pinot Noir and rich bourbon, paired with cranberry, pear and black cherry. Hand-wrapped in seasonal paper and topped with a precious stone, each is infused with hydrating shea butter. ($45; Neiman Marcus)

04 NARS BENTO BOXFrançois Nars’ fascination with Kabuki makeup inspired this limited edition set of two porcelain pots, each lined with a pink or red hand-poured lipstick formula that was 10 years in the making. ($125; Saks)

05 TOKIDOKI LIMITED EDITION ROBBERY PALETTE Italian artist Simone Legno’s cheeky illustrations decorate the packaging of this colorful kit, comprised of three detachable eye shadow palettes: one with sun-kissed golden shades, one with brights and one with smoky dark shades. ($49; Sephora)

06 BUMBLE AND BUMBLE LIVE RICHLY BOXWithin the festive box is a full-size Gentle Shampoo and Super Rich Conditioner, as well as a heat-protecting Styling Lotion. Extra bonus? A soft-touch comb for perfecting holiday updos. ($52; Bumble and bumble)

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What’s In Store

REPAIR CLINIC

THESE TREATMENTS AND STYLERS DELIVER NUTRITIVE OILS AND STRENGTHENING EXTRACTS TO INFUSE LIFELESS HAIR WITH VIGOR.BY BELISA SILVAPHOTOGRAPHED BY GEORGE CHINSEE

01 PUREOLOGY COLOUR STYLIST NOURISHING NECTAR SCULPTING GEL FOR COLOUR-TREATED HAIRThis double-duty treatment and styler strengthens hair with a blend of plant cellulose. Camelina provides humidity resistance; extracts of olive and coriander induce shine. ($26; pureology.com)

02 MATRIX BIOLAGE FULL-LIFT VOLUMIZING CONDITIONER Featuring a soy and wheat protein complex, this conditioner detangles even coarse hair while boosting roots for a day’s worth of volume. ($16; biolage.com)

03 INTELLIGENT NUTRIENTS CERTIFIED ORGANIC DESTRESS EXPRESS HAIR AND BODY TREATMENT OILFormulated with cooling, scalp-soothing extracts of jojoba and argan oils, this tackles hair and scalp damage alike, doubling as a calming massage oil. ($42; ABC Carpet & Home)

04 KÉRASTASE ELIXIR ULTIME OLEO-COMPLEXEFeaturing a blend of vitamin-packed oils from around the world—including argan oil from Morocco, camellia oil from Asia and pracaxi oil from the Amazon—this can be used as a protective veil before cleansing, or on dry hair for finishing. ($50; kerastase-usa.com)

05 MELVITA CAPIFORCE SPLIT ENDS SERUM DAMAGED HAIRThis moisturizing serum has softening olive and argan oils, hemp, apricot and sea beet to repair damaged ends. ($24; melvita.com)

06 L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL TEXTURE EXPERT LUMICONTRÔLE MODELING NUTRI-WAXThis strengthening styling wax sculpts and tames medium to thick hair. The combination of UV filters, vitamin E acetate and pearl protein extract works to reinforce each strand from the root. ($24; textureexpert.com)

07 PHYTOSPECIFIC ULTRA-REPAIR NIGHT TREATMENT WITH AMINO ACID HAIRSPHERES CURLY, FRIZZY AND RELAXED HAIRThis nighttime leave-in cream repairs with an amino-acid complex and botanicals like sunflower oil for vibrancy and African-sourced ximenia oil for moisturizing. ($32; Sephora)

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WHEN THE GOING GETS ROUGH, A

NEW CROP OF SKIN CARE COMES

TO THE RESCUE. BY BELISA SILVA

PHOTOGRAPHED BY GEORGE CHINSEE

SOOTHE OPERATORS

01 SUNDAY RILEY STIMU-LANT II PERFECTING STEM CELL SERUM CORRECTIVE REDNESS, INFLAMMATION, SENSITIVE SKIN EXCESSIVE SUN EXPOSUREFeaturing plant stem cells to restore post-procedure skin, this serum contains a blend of anti-inflammatory ingredients like turmeric, magnolia bark and feverfew. It also purports to increase skin thickness, protect blood vessels and smooth fine lines. ($295; Barneys)

02 NATURA BISSÉ NB CEUTICAL TOLERANCE RECOVERY CREAMHypoallergenic and alcohol-free, this conditioning antiager was formulated to address both internal and external irritants, and works to combat inflammation with a proprietary peptide complex. ($155; Neiman Marcus)

03 AVEDA ALL-SENSITIVE MOISTURIZER HYDRATES AND CONDITIONS SENSITIVE SKINThis gentle moisturizer contains soothing oat extract, rosemary leaf, lavender and chamomile; it is also aroma-free and suitable for both morning and night use. ($33; aveda.com)

04 DECLÉOR HARMONIE CALM DELICATE MILKY CREAM FLUIDThis redness-reducing moisturizer delivers hydrating plant milk from rose, cotton and lily, plus green macatia extract to lessen skin’s reactivity to environmental aggressors. ($70; Nordstrom)

05 PATYKA ABSOLIS MILK CLEANSER GENTLE PRODUCT ROSEWOODThis makeup-removing milk cleanser stars healing Brazilian-sourced candeia essential oil and softening shea butter. Boasting 99.9 percent natural ingredients, the formula deep cleanses with no water required. ($45; newlondonpharmacy.com)

06 ARTDECO CAVIAR PERFORMANCE NECK & DÉCOLLETÉ CAVIAR LIFTING WITH HYALURONThe German skin care and cosmetics brand introduces this skin-regenerating complex, designed to be massaged into the face and neck daily. Concentrated caviar extract and minerals work to tighten fine lines, while shea butter and vitamin E add skin-soothing benefits. ($67; artdeco.org.uk)

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What’s In Store

WELL- BRED

THESE SOPHISTICATED WINTER LAUNCHES EVOKE THE REFINED TASTE OF A CLASSIC GENTLEMAN. BY BELISA SILVAPHOTOGRAPHED BY GEORGE CHINSEE

01 ANTHONY FOR MEN ACTION FOAMING FACE WASH ALL TYPESThis foaming cleanser contains soothing cactus extract, skin-softening honey and glycolic acid to exfoliate pores and beard hairs alike. ($22; Barneys)

02 ACQUA DI PARMA COLONIA POWDER SOAP Add warm water to activate the foaming action of this pulverized-soap-and-talc-powder blend, which is scented with the classic Acqua di Parma fragrance first launched in 1916. ($36; Saks) 03 GUERLAIN ARSÈNE LUPIN IN VOYOU AND DANDYMaurice Leblanc’s detective novels inspired these two scents, which interpret the noble and shifty sides of the series protagonist, Arsène Lupin. Voyou, French for rascal, blends bitter orange, coriander, patchouli and rose, while Dandy, a fanciful fusion of violet, smoky leather and velvet flower, explores Lupin’s softer side. ($230; Guerlain at the Shoppes at the Palazzo)

04 BUMBLE & BUMBLE THE FLAT CLASSIC HAIRBRUSHBumble’s first collection of hairbrushes are crafted in Italy and feature sustainably harvested beech wood handles and a scalp-protecting rubber bristle bed. ($85; Bumble and bumble) 05 REACH BY DESIGN SOFT TOOTHBRUSHDesigned with both function and form in mind, this toothbrush features a specially angled neck and multilevel bristles to remove 95 percent of plaque between teeth. The limited edition geometric patterns were chosen by celebrity stylist Brad Goreski (of Rachel Zoe fame) and interior designers Tom Delavan and Celerie Kemble. ($3.49; mass retailers)

06 FRANCIS KURKDJIANPOUR LE MATIN ABSOLU The French perfumer introduces this scent, inspired by a dewy, sun-drenched morning. The blend of woody amber and violet, designed to be worn early in the day, launches alongside an evening-appropriate counterpart. ($195; Bergdorf Goodman)

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14 WWD BEAUTY BIZ

BY JENNY B. FINE

J ennifer Balbier, senior vice president of global product development for artistry brands at the Estée Lauder Cos., has helped create some of makeup’s most memorable launches. Balbier,

whose exuberance is matched only by her talent, takes her inspiration from everywhere. On a recent trip to Paris,

she toted along her camera for WWD Beauty Biz, taking notes when some-thing caught her fancy—and recording her impressions. “I love visiting Paris,” says Balbier. “I love watching how the French live their lives. Wheth-er it’s a piece of chocolate or a window display or people having coffee in the street, everything they do has such fl air.” The same could be said of Balbier herself. Here, Paris from her unique point of view.

Vision Quest

Jennifer Balbier

GALERIE ALEXANDRE LEADOUZE“I was fascinated by Richard

Orlinski’s crocodile sculptures.

Fantastic! Wild beauty! I

wish I had one in my gar-

den at Bridgehampton!

The sculptures got me

thinking about fi nishes

and glazes, which can

dramatically change the

way a color is interpreted.

Finish is often just as

important as the pigment

used to create a shade.

For spring and summer,

we’re experimenting

with this idea and how

it can alter smoky and

matte fi nishes.”

GALERIES LAFAYETTE“Lunch at Café Ruc

for fashion street-

watching and delicious

cheeseburgers! Food is a

big inspiration because

I look at a cupcake and

think about how it was

made—the mixing and

the baking—to see if

there are any techniques

we can apply to makeup.”

MAILLE“My favorite homemade

mustard shop, where the

colors of the vinegars

and imagery is totally

Provence. I love this store

because they create cus-

tom mustard blends for

you! Chablis moutard is

my favorite. The person-

alized touches here have

inspired me a great deal

with our Mineralize prod-

ucts, whose detailed,

marbleized effect is

done by hand by pulling

the mica-based pearls

through the ‘dough,’

which is then baked on

terra-cotta tiles.”

JEFF KOONS AT GALERIE JEROME DE NOIRMONT“Jeff Koons grew up in Pennsylvania and so did I,

so I love his work. He embodies Pop Art, and MAC

is essentially a Pop Art makeup brand. This show is

an inspiration to any person with a job that requires

visualization. The colors represent the “clear color”

trend that we’ll be seeing for spring.”

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IN PARIS WITH JENNIFER BALBIER

KENZO RETROSPECTIVE“I love big dramatic spectacles

like the Kenzo retrospective

at the Cirque d’Hiver. It was

truly art.”

IS

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WWD BEAUTY BIZ 15

First cultivated in Asia before the birth of written records,ginger is nowa key beautyingredient.

Inside Out

GINGER

GINGER SNAP01 Molton Brown Paradisiac Pink Pepperpod

Bath & Shower; $28.02 Kenzo Homme; $72.03 Intraceuticals Rejuvenate Daily Serum; $189. 04 Penhaligon’s Sartorial Eau de Toilette; $80.05 Jonathan Product Weightless Smooth No-Frizz

Shampoo Keratin & Soy Protein; $20. 06 Strange Invisible Arunima Eau de Parfum; $135.07 Mark Great Energy Multi-Wear Scent Booster; $15. 08 Paul Mitchell Awapuhi Wild Ginger Styling

Treatment Oil Ultra-Light Silky; $24.95.

BY BELISA SILVAPHOTOGRAPHED BY JOHN AQUINO

used in China for massage and to relieve arthritis and joint pain. Zingibain, an active enzyme present in ginger, offers anti-inflammatory benefits and soothes burns and promotes healing, too.

This season, ginger is reborn in a host of modern beauty launches. Strange Invisible’s Arunima scent has top notes of ginger and cardamom, while Penhaligon’s Sartorial features ginger head notes and other spices. Kenzo’s limited edition eau for men blends ginger with nutmeg and coriander, while Mark’s Great Energy Multi-Wear Scent Booster includes gin-ger for its sense-awakening properties.

On the hair and skin care front, ginger stars in Paul Mitch-ell’s Awapuhi Wild Ginger Styling Treatment Oil Ultra-Light Silky and in Jonathan Weightless Smooth No-Frizz Shampoo Keratin & Soy Protein to repair damaged strands. Intraceuticals Reju-venate Daily Serum blends the spice with hibiscus extract to stimulate collagen production, and Molton Brown’s invigorating Paradisiac Pink Pepperpod Bath & Shower unites Brazilian pink pepper spice extract with ginger and floral notes.

First appearing in Southeast Asia more than 3,000 years ago, ginger is a tropical perennial creeping plant that can grow to a height of about four feet. The plant’s nutrients and flavor come from its knotty, buff-hued underground rhizome, typically unearthed after about 10 months. Older ginger is more aromatic and has more medicinal value, while younger ginger is generally less potent. “Humankind has always been intrigued by ginger,” says Cost. “It’s been a part of almost every culture.”

Mentioned in the Koran, the Kama Sutra and the writings of Confucius, Vasco da Gama and Marco Polo, ginger has been regarded as a cure-all tonic root for millennia.

As early as the 12th century, ginger was the second most desired spice, just behind black pepper, according to Bruce Cost, author of Ginger East to West. Imported from the Orient, it was a costly and coveted commodity, and was thought to help treat and prevent plague. A pound of fresh ginger, called ‘gingivere’ in the Middle Ages, cost the same as a live sheep. By the 1500s, the Spanish were cultivating the plant in the New World.

Ginger belongs to the same family as turmeric, cardamom and galanga. Its active ingredients—gingerols and shogaols—give it its spicy citrus taste and stimulating properties.

“Ginger has long been seen as a warming herb, as a plant that dispels dampness and wind,” says Cost. “In ancient Chi-nese medicine, ginger is the ‘yin’ [an ingredient with heating properties] to the ‘yang’ [one with cooling properties]. Both were used in medicinal recipes and cooking for balance.”

Ginger helps promote the production of saliva and diges-tive fluids, giving it the power to soothe an upset stomach. In ancient Greece, ginger was wrapped in bread and eaten after supper to aid the digestion process. Today, ginger ale is still used to settle a stomachache.

In India, ginger paste is applied to the temples to relieve headaches and ingested to stave off colds, while in South America it’s used as a decongestant to minimize allergy symptoms and to treat a sore throat. Ginger oil has long been

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16 WWD BEAUTY BIZ

Luxe scents used to be the GO-TO GIFT FOR GUYS TO GET WOMEN.

To see if they’ve maintained their appeal with the holidays approaching, we sent our

UNDERCOVER REPORTERS ON A SHOPPING MISSION TO DISCOVER HOW MEN-FRIENDLY

the fragrance counter really is.

Beauty Incognito

BI

BY MATTHEW W. EVANSI’m an early bird by nature, and on a 70-plus degree Friday in early October, I decided to get a head start on my holiday shopping. I was in the market for a fragrance for a 37-year-old female French friend, and headed to Manhattan’s Fifth Avenue to see what I could fi nd. I learned that picking a women’s fragrance from an innumerable selection of scents is daunting. Extremely daunting. I had decided on gift sets to simplify the process—after all, what’s better than receiving a nice box containing multiple scents and lotions? But what aromas would appeal to her? What perfume should I buy?

LORD & TAYLOR424 FIFTH AVENUE

At about 1:45 p.m., I walked into the mildly crowded beauty department. The brilliance of the color cos-metics area was a bit intimidating, but the perfectly manicured makeup artists and sales associates were even more so as I zigzagged through trying to locate the fragrance area. Was I being judged?

When I located the scents (what guy asks for directions?), I scrutinized the bright glass cases lined with hundreds of bottles, grouped by designer and brand.

A spritzer looked my way but didn’t say anything. After looking at the extensive Chanel assortment and browsing other brands nearby, the spritzer softly asked from around the corner if he could help me. I told him I was “holiday shopping for a female friend.”

“What does she like?” he asked.“In terms of...” I trailed off.“Like light, sweet, spicy?”

He saw it was obvious I knew little about her fra-grance tastes, so he pointed out that the store would in a few weeks be getting in value sets, and that I might want to consider that option (was it because I was dressed down in jeans, sneakers and a pullover?).

As he led me down an aisle past numerous upscale names, he pointed to his Chanel T-shirt and amicably joked, “Chanel pays my rent.” His brand loyalty not in question, he conveyed an impressive understanding of numerous brands, and was infor-mative without pushing a hard sell.

We stopped at a Versace Bright Crystal gift-set display. He described the scent as light and sweet, spraying a blotter card and handing it and a pen to me to check off the name on the back of the blotter.

Noting some gift sets from the likes of Versace and others range in price from $50 to $60, he added that sets from “prestige brands like Chanel and Bul-gari” go for between $80 and $90.

We approached Chanel again, where he keyed in on Coco Mademoiselle. “A lot of young ladies like this,” he said, and after taking a few whiffs, I put it on my short list.

SEPHORA597 FIFTH AVENUE

At Sephora, the lines were long and there were make-overs aplenty in the store’s bustling Beauty Studio.

I scampered past the lipstick consultations and, instinctively switching to tunnel vision, spotted a stair-case up to the scents at the back of the store.

There I found a mind-boggling number of men’s and women’s fragrances in all sizes and colors with prices marked. The open-sell displays had clearly been picked over during a busy afternoon.

I meandered from end to end for a few minutes—which allowed some time for my heart rate to settle and for me to get comfortable in the department—then sprayed Tom Ford’s Grey Vetiver on my wrists in an attempt to get a nearby associate’s attention.

A store “consultant” who works at multiple locations approached me. I told her I was getting a head start on holiday shopping but didn’t know where to begin.

The first thing she did was ask the age of my friend, then what she likes.

When I told her I had heard good things about Coco Mademoiselle, she sprayed a blotter strip and handed it to me, describing the aroma as “heavy and sweet. I’m in my 30s and I wouldn’t wear it,” she said, indicating in measured words that the scent is for a “mature, older” woman. Really?

She bounded off and quickly returned with a Bulgari bottle. She wet a blotter with Bulgari Omnia Crystalline, which I liked a lot. Add another to the short list.

Seconds later, she had a bottle of Narciso Rodri-guez’s “new” scent Essence in hand.

I suggested maybe I should have my friend smell one of them first but added I didn’t want to ruin the surprise.

The consultant, who had a cellophane-wrapped pack of 1-ml. Essence spray vials, handed me one slyly, saying, “Have her smell this and tell her it’s for someone else.”

Things began to crystallize at Sephora, perhaps because of the open-sell environment and the consul-tant’s accommodating, pressure-free approach. But

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WWD BEAUTY BIZ 17

was it possible for me to get out of my Chanel-Bulgari-Narciso Rodriguez comfort zone?

After the consultation, which lasted a mere five min-utes (she was busy), I thanked her and wove my way through the dense crowd, clutching my blotters and sample of Essence.

BERGDORF GOODMAN754 FIFTH AVENUE

At Bergdorf Goodman, I felt like a fish out of water, so I kept the music coming through my headphones as I descended into the sea of cosmetics and fragrances on the store’s lower level.

I poked my head into the Tom Ford nook and returned to my comfort zone, though, thanks to the familiar aroma of Grey Vetiver. After hearing about my mission, the sales associate picked up Noir de Noir from Ford’s Private Blend collection of unisex fragrances. He took me through four more scents: Champaca Absolute, Neroli Portofino, Bois Marocain and Oud Wood, handing me a glass full of coffee beans between each scent (thank you) and explaining that, of the dozen or so fragrances in the collection, these were popular among women.

Next I headed to the Creed space but was corralled by a gal at the fragrance bar who suggested I try Cha-nel’s new men’s scent, Bleu de Chanel. I told her I was looking for a women’s gift and she led me straight to the countertop display of Les Exclusifs de Chanel.

Sycomore definitely struck a chord, but still I set off for Creed, blotter in hand.

I shouldn’t have bothered. A man and a woman stood at the round Creed table. I looked down at the array of bottles fanned out on the table. They continued to talk to each other without acknowledging me.

Maybe the jeans, sneakers and pullover?A moment later, Montgomery Taylor, the creator of

the fragrance company of the same name, greeted me and asked if I’d like to see his first fragrance, Ambra di Venezia. He told me the story about how he com-posed the scent and blew the glass perfume bottle ($350) himself in Murano, Italy. He suggested I give my friend the Ambra di Venezia set, which includes the scent and the brand’s body cream. Who could resist such a pretty presentation with a compelling tale behind it? I was impressed by the craftsmanship of the collection. I left, confident about my choices but not ready to make one yet.

BY IVAN CASTANOIt was on a sunny Saturday afternoon that I set foot on Mexico City’s bustling downtown district to buy a fragrance for my friend Giselle. I was fairly unprepared and unaware of the brands she prefers, so I fi gured the best way to fi nd the right gift would be to describe her personality to the staff at the different stores I planned to visit.

MISHKA CALLE TACUBA NO. 59

Before hitting the department stores, I thought I’d try a small, specialist perfumery. I was told family-owned Mishka has a good range of international fra-grances, so I headed there first. I was disappointed. The shop’s interior and decor were fairly run-down, and I had to pull the saleswoman’s teeth to get her to give me any useful information. I described Giselle as a “fairly fashionable, confident and flirty”

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“Can you give me a couple of good choices?” I asked. With a fake smile, the sales associate reached for two: DKNY’s Be Delicious Fresh Blos-som and Chanel Chance, both of which smelled wonderful but I wondered which would suit Giselle best. Be Delicious is “floral, fresh and fruity,” the woman explained, ideal for a 20- to 30-year-old woman, while the Chanel juice is “sweet and fresh,” also ideal for a “young and flirty” lady, she added.

Based on that description, both products seemed a winner, but when I asked if she could recommend a third choice, she insisted those were the best she could think of, and I wondered, given the plethora of brands out there, if she was just being a bit lazy. She did, however, mention the store’s prices were five to 10 percent below department store rates (which interested me a bit), but given her lack of enthusiasm and lack of product knowledge, I thought I would be better off heading to her larger competitors.

PALACIO DE HIERRO — TIENDA CENTROAVENIDA 20 DE NOVIEMBRE NO. 3

I walked over to the nearby upscale department store chain Palacio de Hierro’s outlet on Avenida 20 de Noviembre. This was a much more positive and stimulating experience. First, the store (like most Palacios) is gorgeous, and the beauty department is elegantly and attractively decorated. The section is also powerfully lit by an ultrahigh, multicolored glass ceiling that gives it a cathedrallike feeling. The store’s design presents a fusion of modern and colonial architecture, as it was once the home of Mexican liberator, Porfirio Diaz, who led the country’s inde-pendence from Spain.

Palacio’s staff were proactive, well-informed and friendly, inviting me to ask questions and answering them in great detail. When I described Giselle to one saleswoman (who actually approached me before I had a chance to reach the counter), her first recom-mendation was Yves Saint Laurent’s Parisienne eau de parfum spray. The juice, a concoction of black-berry, damask rose and sandalwood, is made for a “young, modern, feminine and sensual woman,” which fitted Giselle’s description well enough. I was

MEXICO CITY, MEXICO

intrigued but wondered what else she had in store. She reached for YSL’s Elle, which she called “el-egant and daring,” two qualities I noted Giselle has. The scent smelled fantastic, but I was thrown off by the sales associate’s insistence that the scent wasn’t age specific. “Fragrances are for any age,” she in-sisted. At about $110 for the 90-ml. eau de toilette, I also thought Elle was a bit expensive, and when told Parisienne’s $95 price included a free lipstick of any color, I was sold.

DUFRY SHOPSMEXICO CITY AIRPORT, TERMINAL 1

But before buying anything, I thought I’d give the airport shops a go, as I had to travel that day.

I popped into Dufry at Mexico City Airport’s Ter-minal 1. This experience topped all others. The shop was beautiful and boasted well-lit fragrance displays. The staff was friendly and seemed even more knowl-edgeable than those at Palacio.

I was warmly greeted as soon as I stepped into the store, where a gregarious saleswoman encour-aged me to sample Hermès’ Kelly Caleche, noting it was ideally suited for a 25- to 30-year-old female. But what impressed me the most was her product knowledge. She went well beyond the call of duty to describe the ingredients with great minutiae. Kelly Caleche, she said, contains notes from Mexico’s white tuberose flower, as well as from the climb-ing and mimosa roses. It also has a subtle leather infusion that makes it as soft as “an angel’s wings” and evokes Hermès’ image as a purveyor of luxury leather goods. My only reservation was her product description as one made for a “confident and domi-nant yet feminine woman.” I thought this was a bit inappropriate, as Giselle is not really ultraconfident or “dominant.” The other product she recommended was Quizas by Loewe, which has a pretty strong presence in Latin America, given its Spanish roots. The scent was gorgeous, based on strong lemon citrus and flower notes, and the product description, as one made for a “daring and confident woman who likes to be sensual,” fit Giselle quite well. At $82.50 for a 100-ml. eau de toilette, the price seemed a bit high, but given Loewe was including a beauti-ful beach bag with the purchase, I thought this was definitely worth it. Sold!

DUFRY SHOPS

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18 WWD BEAUTY BIZ

and passed it to me. I smelled it and waited. It smelled good, I guess. But I wanted to know why she chose it for me, what set it apart from the 100 or so other options in front of us. At least 20 seconds passed and she said nothing, so I finally asked, “Why this one?” “Because it’s light,” she replied, and “fits your needs.” I waited for more details; she offered none.

Already I felt less comfortable in this environment. Where would we go from here? Did she know what to offer me next? Should I lead the way? It’s clear I wouldn’t know where to start, with hundreds of options on hand. I humored her minimal effort with a second and third option, Dior Miss Dior Cherie L’eau and Lady Million by Paco Rabanne.

All three smelled nice, but none much different from the option I liked at Contém 1g that was nearly a third of the price. I left, eager to reward the sales-woman for being on the same wavelength with me.

Beauty Incognito

BY BOB MOSERIt’s tough shopping for a perfume for my wife, who rarely fi nds a fragrance light enough to accommodate her strong allergies. She’d just as soon opt for the cash equivalent in Brazilian chocolate if given the choice. But I’ve built up an impressive streak of husband surprises so far this year and believe I can fi nd someone in São Paulo who’ll have the right scent on hand—and patience for my endless questions.

CONTÉM 1G SHOPPING CONTINENTAL, AV. LEÃO MACHADO, 100

I entered this working-class mall looking for a store that could make fragrance shopping an easy and educational experience for me. I bypassed two specialty shops bustling with traffic that had walls stacked from floor to ceiling with scents, because, frankly, the number of choices seemed overwhelm-ing. A more welcome site was the smaller, quieter shop of Contém 1g, a well-known 26-year-old Brazil-ian makeup company with 200 stores nationwide.

A saleswoman listened intently as I explained my total perfume ignorance and the ideas I had for my wife. The store had three choices (each about $42), and while the small selection may have disappointed some, I’d later come to appreciate its simplicity.

The saleswoman offered clear, detailed and down-to-earth explanations of each that impressed me with how much empathy she was able to show this first-timer. It seemed to me that the three options on hand were different enough from one another to satisfy the needs of anyone. Within minutes, I felt confident that a Carolina Herrera scent—lighter and more refreshing than the others—was the right choice. I promised to return and complimented the saleswoman on a truly helpful effort.

FAURÈ SHOPPING IGUATEMI, AV. BRIG. FARIA LIMA, 2232

From there I headed to Shopping Iguatemi, São Paulo’s ritziest mall. A little more confident this time around, I entered the pungent abyss of Faurè, a high-end fragrance superstore with bottles covering every wall from floor to 20-foot ceiling.

I went through my routine explanation about the wife, her allergies and my own cluelessness to the small army of saleswomen at the entrance. One woman took the lead and pulled me by the arm away from the group, I assume signifying she either knew the most or was simply next up in the sales rotation.

From a wall of countless options, she chose Given-chy’s Ange ou Démon ($147), sprayed a slip of paper

BY LAURENT FOLCHER I generally think scent is a highly personal thing that the wearer should experiment with and choose for herself. That being said, I know my friend pretty well and she trusts my judgment—or at least my advice. She is my best friend, in her midthirties and usually likes fragrances that are neither too girly nor too fl oral. She’s not afraid of wearing masculine scents, and she usually likes mine. But I decided not to go cross-gender this time.

MARIONNAUD 3 QUARTIERS, 23 BOULEVARD DE LA MADELEINE

I entered 3 Quartiers and went looking for Marion-naud, which is at the back of the mall. That didn’t give a luxury vibe. The store isn’t very large and is similar to typical French beauty sellers, with bright lighting and white shelving lining the walls. Here, the shelves weren’t fully stocked and not clearly designated to a particular brand. As I looked for the fragrance area, a saleswoman quickly came over to offer assistance. She immediately had me sample Forever and Ever

from Dior, a reedition of an older scent—not what I was looking for. Next came Sisley’s Eau du Soir, which isn’t bad but not exactly what I was after, either. Then I noticed Untitled from Maison Martin Margiela and I told her that was what my friend really had loved lately. The saleswoman said she adored it, too, and had worn it all summer. She had me sample the Balenciaga fragrance, which despite being floral is different since it mixes violet and leather notes. Next up was Thierry Mugler’s new Womanity scent, but I quickly nixed it because of its bottle design—definitely not my taste.

She went back to Dior and made me try Miss Dior Chérie, which didn’t fit the bill. By now, I was carrying around five testers and starting to feel dizzy from all the smells and not knowing which was which. I asked her to throw all out but the Balenciaga. I tried to drive her in a new direction by asking for an eau de cologne—even an old-school one—and she quickly brought out Roger & Gallet and then went back to Dior to spray a blotter with its eau de cologne, which smelled very classic.

I thanked her and left without a clue of what I could possibly buy. I had an impression that despite the saleswoman’s kindness she was being paid by (or otherwise told to push) Dior.

LE BON MARCHÉ 24 RUE DE SÈVRES

This department store immediately gives the impres-sion of luxury, making me feel at ease. At Guerlain, I ex-plained my quest to the sales associate. She proffered Mitsouko, then suggested a new edition of Shalimar, called Ode à la Vanille. Surprisingly, the scent was interesting, as its vanilla was balanced by citrus notes.

She wrote the name of each on the blotters, which I found convenient. Next she introduced me to Jicky, then suggested I clear my nose by smelling some cof-fee grains in a jar—a very efficient move.

Since I said my friend likes musky and woody scents, she presented Guerlain’s L’Art et la Matière col-lection. I was very pleased by Rose Barbare and Bois d’Arménie. We eliminated the ones I didn’t like and kept only the blotters, perfectly labeled, of those of interest.

The niche fragrance area had only one saleswoman (the rest had gone to lunch), but she rapidly offered assistance. She was enthusiastic and knowledge-able—especially about Miller Harris. I asked about Fleurs de Sel, whose name excited my curiosity. I absolutely loved its mix of salty notes with citrus, since it reminded me of a vacation at the seaside. Piment des Baies was another revelation with its spicy, fresh notes.

BISÃO PAULO, BRAZIL

PARIS,FRANCE

LE BON MARCHÉ

FAURÈ

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WWD BEAUTY BIZ 19

It’s the one I liked most for my friend so far. I told the saleswoman I love Byredo. I tested Bal d’Afrique and Chembur. The latter was the most interesting, as spicy and musky notes are something my friend would prob-ably like. I kept the blotters of almost everything and decided to take a short walk to clear my head.

BY ANDRE VLTCHEK AND ROSSIE INDIRAIn October, I realized that I desperately needed a gift for my publisher in Turkey, who had single-handedly arranged the publication of my three nonfi ction books in Istanbul. I was scheduled to go there in 10 days but had never before met her. All I knew was that she is a fi ftysomething upper-class Turkish lady married to a world-famous scientist. What gift would be appropriate? Indonesian batik, maybe, but how to select an appropriate pattern? A silk scarf? That could be too personal. A bottle of cognac? She may be religious and not touch alco-hol. Fragrance appeared to be the most neutral and elegant gift, but I needed professional help.

METRO DEPARTMENT STOREPACIFIC PLACE MALL

First I drove to the Pacifi c Place Mall, a Mecca of high-class shopping in the capital. I headed to the fra-grance section of Metro Department Store, which was bright, elegant and in good taste, pleasant aromas wafting from the entrance. I made eye contact with two assistants. I don’t know if this happens to other men shopping for fragrances, but right from the begin-ning I felt that I was breaking some rules, that I was being scrutinized and that my replies were untruthful.

Both ladies were friendly, but they came at me from two sides and began their interrogation. “I need an el-egant perfume for my publisher in Turkey,” I told them. “Publisher?” asked the fi rst, mistrustfully. “How old is she?” asked the other. “In her fi fties,” I replied, afraid I didn’t sound convincing. The saleswomen exchanged glances. I felt exposed and vulnerable. I should have probably said that I was buying a gift for my lover or my mother-in-law or any other more credible person.

At the end, the ladies showed some mercy. They even demonstrated good knowledge of their products and a natural desire to please the customer (me).

They proposed Delices de Cartier, telling me it was newly launched, a supremely feminine fra-grance with a timeless blend of distinctive fruits, like iced cherry and zesty bergamot, blended with the spice of pink pepper and fl oral notes like violet, jasmine and freesia, fi nished with warm amber, musk and sandalwood. I had no idea whether the assistant memorized all that or was just improvis-ing. In any case, I was impressed and overwhelmed by the complexity of the scent. The other associate introduced me to Prada’s d’Oranger and gave me a long speech about its origin (jasmine specially grown in India). For my purpose, I felt most comfort-able with the simple elegance of Prada. However, I wanted to visit one more store.

GLOW LIVING BEAUTYPLAZA INDONESIA

I drove to the upscale mall Plaza Indonesia to visit Glow Living Beauty, which is advertised as “the fi rst large and upscale specialty store for beauty needs in Indonesia that offers luxury cosmetics, skin care, fragrances and well-being treatment products from international multibrands.” Unlike at Metro, here each scent had its own representative competing for the customer’s attention. Although this store “special-izes” in perfumes and cosmetics, it felt much more impersonal, and the service was pushy. I found it very diffi cult to navigate through the ocean of choices.

I learned about new scents from a variety of sales associates, one representing Elizabeth Arden, another Vera Wang and Issey Miyake and a third who worked for DKNY. But fi nally I decided to return to Pacifi c Place Mall and purchase Prada d’Oranger.

What infl uenced my fi nal decision? I actually love the scent. I also found it more simple and elegant than the others, making it a perfect gift for someone who I’ve never met before. I also liked the atmosphere of Pacifi c Place Mall, as well as the service I received there.

The price (about $120, including a free 100-ml. bottle of body lotion) was steep, but what good things are cheap these days? I had my elegant and neutral gift wrapped, and I was all set to depart for Turkey.

JAKARTA, INDONESIA

MARIONNAUD

GLOW LIVING BEAUTY

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20 WWD BEAUTY BIZ

There was barely a dry eye in the house at the 2010 CEW Achiever Awards, during which P&G’s Alex Keith, Clinique’s Janet Pardo, Mark’s Claudia Poccia, Lisa Price of Carol’s Daughter and Coty’s Lori Singer were honored, along with Johnson & Johnson, which received the fi rst Corporate Em-powerment for Women Award. Introduced by Gina Drosos as an “engineering genius who traded her pocket protector for a pair of stilettos,” Keith noted that her two passions in life—beauty and running—are quite similar. “Competition makes you better,” she said, “but winning is fun.” Pardo quoted from Kahlil Gibran’s The Prophet during her speech, noting that “love is work made visible,” while Poccia, who was introduced by 22-year-old Mark rep Ashlee Thomas, advised attendees to follow their passions and to always be present in the moment. Price, who started her business in her kitchen, thanked her husband for his support, laughingly noting, “We’ve come a long way from you making deliveries on your Rollerblades.” Singer singled out her family, too, and her co-workers. “You must make your own destiny and embrace change,” she said.

A few days later, the Fragrance Foundation bestowed its Circle of Champions Award on Estée Lauder’s Thia Breen. Rather than a traditional (read stuffy) awards bestowal, the Foundation roasted Breen, led by Don Loftus, president and ceo of P&G Prestige, and concluded with a specially written

song he penned that was performed by Laurie Dowley. Breen sat off to

the side of the stage, laughing as hard as the audience and

noting as she accepted the award, “I am truly honored

to be recognized by my peers in such a memorable and personal manner.”

HONORS SOCIETY

Flash Point

PHOT

OS B

Y ST

EVE

EICH

NER

AND

GEOR

GE C

HINS

EE

RITA MANGAN SCOTT BEATTIE

JOHN DEMSEY AND DEBORAH WALTERS LAURIE DOWLEY

TERRY DARLANDEDWARD MENICHESCHI AND MICHAEL GOULD

WILLIAM LAUDER

ED SHIRLEY ALEX KEITH

CATHERINE WALSH

JILL SCALAMANDRE MINDY GROSSMANLISA PRICEANN GOTTLIEBHOWARD KREITZMAN AND MAUREEN CASE

LYNNE GREENE AND JANET PARDO

SUSAN SWEET

CARLOTTA JACOBSON AND ESI EGGLESTON BRACEY

CLAUDIA POCCIA

DANNY AND LORI SINGER

THIA BREEN

CAROLINE PIEPER-VOGT

CAROL HAMILTON DARIO FERRARI

STEVE STOUTE

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SCENE & BE SEEN.

Celebrities Parties Fashion Culture iBLAST Citizen Reporting

Report. Re-post.

Read.

The Special-Edition WWD App.

Sponsored by

Apple, the Apple logo, iPad and iPhone are trademarks

of Apple Inc. APP Store is a service mark of Apple Inc.

22 WWD BEAUTY BIZ

PHOTOGRAPHED BY DELPHINE ACHARD, KYLE ERICKSEN, STEPHANE FEUGERE, GIOVANNI GIANNONI,

ISABELLA DE MADDALENA, DAVIDE MAESTRI, DOMINIQUE MAITRE AND MAURICIO MIRANDA

all it a postrecession beauty sigh of relief. On the spring 2011 runways, there was an ease—and an optimism—to the hair and makeup looks not seen in years.

From cheery brights for lips and eyes to Seventies-inspired hairstyles that harkened back to that decade’s carefree ebullience, a new sensibility emerged, one very much in keeping with how real women want to look—and, as important, feel—today.

“I loved spring,” says Aerin Lauder, senior vice president and creative director of Estée Lauder. “It really appealed to me as a consumer and the way I wear fashion and beauty. It’s wearable and saleable.”

In both the clothing and the makeup, Lauder singled out minimalism offset by bright pops of color applied in a straightforward manner. Gone are complicated looks like an intricately shaded smoky eye in six shades of plum, replaced by less fussy styles like the bold stripe of orange eyeliner that Estée Lauder’s creative color director Tom Pecheux did at Derek Lam. “We’re seeing a new way to play with color. It looks easy to apply, and it’s not as complicated as a really defi ned eye,” says Lauder, whose favorite look of the season was a Michael Kors moss green sheath. “Women are ready to have fun.”

Pecheux was far from alone in his use of bright color. Makeup artist Lucia Pieroni encircled eyes in a cloud of sky blue at Rochas, while Pat McGrath painted a vivid fuchsia on the lids at Nina Ricci. Charlotte Willer, Maybelline

Spring beauty takes a turn for the relaxed,

as a new sensibility emerges on the

runways of Europe and New York. BY JENNY B. FINE

PRADA

MCGRATH BACKSTAGE AT GUCCI.

SHOWNAME

JOHN GALLIANO

VERSACE

MIU MIU

YVES SAINT LAURENT

GUCCI DIOR STELLA MCCARTNEY

Each season, Pat McGrath wows with her makeup pyrotechnics, and spring was no exception. From the theatrical glamour at John Galliano to the barely there but bold at Balenciaga, McGrath’s looks helped defi ne the predominant themes seen throughout. “This season was so exciting and eclectic,” says the makeup artist, who is also P&G’s creative design director for makeup. “We’re having a major return to full-on looks.” That meant judicious pops of bright color—particularly what McGrath calls a “brazen” red on the mouth or an unexpected jolt like pink on the eyes offset by black liner and mascara—and a return to all-out glamour with undeniable sex appeal. Says McGrath, who worked on 30 spring shows but never lost her cool despite the pressures backstage: “Makeup is back in a big way.”

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WWD BEAUTY BIZ 23

NICOLE FARHI

LOUIS VUITTON

FENDI

ISSEY MIYAKE

GIANFRANCO FERRÉ

BALMAIN

CHANEL

ISABEL MARANTSTELLA MCCARTNEY

GIVENCHY

ISABEL MARANT

Sartorially, the feeling of ease that dominated many runways was amplified by the popularity of blonde models. Established beauties Abbey Lee and Iris Strubegger updated their looks this season with lightened locks, while golden girls like Frida Gustavsson, Daphne Groeneveld, Kasia Struss, Ginta Lapina and Britt Maren were this year’s designer darlings. “Blonde is identified with sunny things,” says Leatrice Eiseman, executive director of the Pantone Color Institute. “It’s warm and optimistic, and people are trying to get that feeling of optimism in difficult times.”

EMILIO PUCCI

ROBERTO CAVALLI

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24 WWD BEAUTY BIZ

New York’s global makeup artist, blended electric shades of pink and orange for a bespoke lip at Z Spoke by Zac Posen and a bold cherry red at L.A.M.B., offset by a gold eye, and Charlotte Tilbury bathed eyes in lilac at Blumarine.

“It looked effortless on the face,” says MAC’s global vice president of makeup artistry Gordon Espinet, of Tilbury’s purple peepers. “But what was cool was that she took a color that we would traditionally think of as bridal and overly sweet and she made it look cool.”

The appearance of such colors now is not unexpected. “We are living through dangerous, diffi cult times, and we need that lift, that something that gets us energized,” says Leatrice Eiseman, executive director of the Pantone Color Institute. “That’s color. Especially in beauty, color lets you be a kid with a paint box again, giving a sense of abandon and the attitude ‘Let’s have a good time and create.’ ”

Eiseman notes that what feels particularly new this season is the preponderance of unexpected color combinations. “The old rules, like never crossing warm and cool colors, are being thrown out,” she says. “Now, we’re seeing colors being used with their opposites, to create an intensity and make a statement.”

The idea of illumination and metallics was also a dominant theme on the runways—from the strong silver eyes that McGrath created at Prada to the all-over iridescence at Nicole Farhi to the preponderance of blondes on the catwalk. Vasso Petrou, global marketing director of trends and innovation at P&G Beauty, has dubbed this trend “divine tech.”

“It’s very futuristic and innovative, when real science becomes fashionable and creates a new standard of aesthetics,” says Petrou. “This look refl ects a modern take on the urban world, where high technology is embedded but still needs to feel intuitive and pleasurable, as with the iPad.” That translates into shine and metallics, she says, noting, “In hair color, it’s about the golden, silver and rose shades, and with makeup it’s a micro iridescence, perfect smoothness, very futuristic.”

Still, it’s a futuristic feeling tinged with humanity, says

makeup artist and Revlon global artistic director Gucci Westman, who noticed a defi nite shift in skin fi nishes this season. “We all did this sort of exaggeratedly luminous skin, superluminous, almost cyber skin,” says Westman. “I saw it everywhere, starting in New York and ending in Paris. I didn’t notice any foreheads that were powdered. It was a very exaggerated healthiness and luminosity. It looked like all of the girls had an oxygen facial before they went on the runway.”

On the opposite end of the futuristic spectrum was the Seventies redux. “For those of us who lived through the Seventies, in retrospect, when we look back, we recognize what a fun and expressive time it was,” says Carolyn Holba, senior vice president of U.S. marketing for Maybelline New York–Garnier. “Hopefully we won’t make the same fashion mistakes,” she laughs, “but there is that play on the runway that is very reminiscent of the Seventies.”

“The Seventies were a time of optimism,” agrees Jan Arnold, co-founder and style director of CND. “It was idealistic and there was some whimsy. People want to feel good today, and that era was fun and playful.”

Hairwise, that translated into Guido Palau’s frizzfest at Marc Jacobs and his big barrel curls at Sonia Rykiel. Makeup-wise, it meant a more sculpted face. “We saw a lot of the nude face sculpted and shaded to perfection,” says Espinet. “Bronzer was used to structure a face rather than bronze a face. It’s the kind of makeup a man would be blind to, but there’s actually a lot there. It’s about using the skin color and variations on the individual skin color to create a look.”

As seemingly opposite as the looks were, still the common thread remained throughout the season: the idea of effortlessness. “People don’t want to have to spend too much time or effort on their looks,” says celebrity hairstylist and Tresemmé spokesperson Mara Roszak. “It is sexier and more feminine to not look so done,” she continues, noting that she expects the trickle-down infl uence to be quickly felt. “The runway is where we get inspired,” she says. “It’s what celebrities start to wear and what we see in magazines. It’s what women want to look like today.”

“It’s about girls as boys and boys as girls,” said hairstylist Sam McKnight backstage at DSquared. And though he was referring specifically to the look he created there, he could as easily have been referring to one of the major themes of spring: an-drogyny. Consider the season’s most talked-about hairstyle: Carmen Kass’ crop top, which made news first when McKnight chopped off her locks backstage at Balmain, then created a second round of buzz when Kass dyed it bright red for the Louis Vuitton show.

ANN DEMEULEMEESTER

CACHAREL

PAUL SMITH DSQUARED

BALMAINHERMÈS

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From the ultimate pinup Bettie Page at Dior to the Phantom of the Opera at Vivienne Westwood, hair and makeup artists looked far and wide for inspiration this season. At Jean Paul Gaultier, the models had a distinct David Bowie circa Ziggy Stardust vibe, while at Unique, hairstylist Paul Hanlon channeled Guy Bourdin’s photos for voluminous, Grace Coddington-esque styles. At Dior, makeup artist Pat McGrath used bright, bold colors on the eyes and lips paired with a strong brow, while hairstylist Orlando Pita pinned on bangs for a Fifties fl air. “She’s a Technicolor Bettie Page,” said McGrath backstage. Still, there was nothing retro about the fi nal result. “She’s very modern,” continued McGrath. “It’s all about bold colors—almost like a Pop Art print.”

Forget fashion’s youth obsession. Continuing a trend fi rst seen on fall runways, designers used a slew of supermodels of yore on their catwalks. The result was a cross-generational celebration of beauty, as evidenced by the appearances of Amber Valletta (36), Carolyn Murphy (37), Stella Tennant (39), Kristen McMenamy (45), Yasmin Le Bon (46) and Inès de la Fressange (53). The new direction is a tribute to the aging of the global population. “Sixty is the new 40, and 40 is the new 30,” says Vasso Petrou, global marketing director of trends and innovation at P&G Beauty. “These women all look supergood and superglamorous. Women can now look as young as they feel, and with the appearance of these older models, people are celebrating that.”

YASMIN LE BON AT JOHN GALLIANO.

NATALIA VODIANOVA AT ROBERTO CAVALLI.

KRISTEN MCMENAMY AT LOUIS VUITTON.

CAROLYN MURPHY AT BALENCIAGA.

AT JULIEN MACDONALD.

AT JEAN PAUL GAULTIER.

AT MARIOS SCHWAB.

AT DIOR.

AT TOPSHOP UNIQUE.

AT VIVIENNE WESTWOOD.

INÈS DE LA FRESSANGE AT CHANEL.

DARIA WERBOWY AT BALMAIN.

STELLA TENNANT AT BALENCIAGA

KAROLINA KURKOVA AT DRIES VAN NOTEN.

GISELE BÜNDCHEN AT BALENCIAGA.

AMBER VALLETTA AT BALENCIAGA.

BB1011.022-027.WELL.Runway.a;30.indd 25 11/3/10 1:15 PM

26 WWD BEAUTY BIZ

One of the most in-demand models on the spring runways was 16-year-old Lindsey Wixson. Fashion’s most prestigious labels (think the likes of Chanel, Prada, Louis Vuitton) were clamoring; Wixson walked a whopping 56 shows in Paris, Milan, London and New York. Beyond the impressive blue-chip bookings, her success is staggering due to the sheer velocity of her career. She was only 14 when Vision L.A. model scout Tony Perkins discovered Wixson in a local fashion show in Wichita, Kansas. While her unique beauty, poise and confi dence caught his eye, Wixson’s maturity surprised him the most. “The day that she started, she didn’t think of this as anything but a business for herself,” Perkins recalled. “And she’s very aware of what’s going on around her. She’s always professional. She’s just fantastic.” —CINNAMON ST. JOHN

LOUIS VUITTON

ICEBERG

MOSCHINO STELLA MCCARTNEY

NINA RICCI

MIU MIU

JEAN PAUL GAULTIER

MISSONI

PRADA

JULIEN MACDONALD

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

JOHN GALLIANO

BB1011.022-027.WELL.Runway.a;30.indd 26 11/3/10 1:16 PM

WWD BEAUTY BIZ 27

In the hands of master hairstylist Guido Palau, hair is a material that can be sculpted and molded in infi nite variations. Palau’s creativity was on full display this season—from the Seventies-inspired Diana Ross tribute at Marc Jacobs to the highly polished chic coils at Louis Vuitton to the simple elegance of an extra-long ponytail at Loewe. “This season is about a strong woman and a rich, romantic glamour, but also a little decadence,” says Palau, who serves as Redken’s creative consultant, too. “We did everything from small minimalist head shapes to full fl ouncy curls and frizz.” Texture played a key role, particularly high shine that Palau says “looks as if it’s been painted on…Even a small style close to the head can be as glamorous as big hair.” On the other end of the spectrum, Palau used extreme volume, inspired by icons like Ross and Grace Coddington, “to give hair a rugged texture, adding a little youthful fun.”

Not for the faint of heart or retiring, makeup artists dipped their brushes into a full spectrum for spring, drenching faces in bold, bright colors. At Fendi, makeup artist Peter Phillips cited colorblocking as the inspiration for his dazzling lip shades, which ran the gamut from shocking pink to a chemical-looking orange. “It’s graphic, but it’s not a fixed look,” he said. “I wanted it to look optimistic and fun.” He was far from alone in that inclination. From the rainbow nails at Giles to the sky blue eyes at Rochas, the rich saturated lip hues seen on multiple catwalks and the fuchsia eyes at Nina Ricci, an uplifting and exhilarating feeling permeated the season.

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The age of infl ation is over in Tinseltown, where the over-plumped faces of yore are leading to increasingly diminished returns for celebrities and surgeons alike.

id she or didn’t she?These days, as a new aesthetic takes hold in Hollywood, it’s getting

harder to tell. Call it the dawn of a defl ationary era, a time in which the pushed,

plumped, plucked and pulled Hollywood ideal is yielding to something approaching human. Exaggerated lips, rigid foreheads, jumbo breasts and higher-than-high cheekbones are becoming jarring relics of a desperate battle against aging. (Of course, they can still be examined for historical purposes on reality-television shows like The Real

Housewives of Beverly Hills.)The new beauty ideal is easy, fresh and relatable. The prototype could be a mash-up of

Jennifer Aniston, Kate Hudson, Blake Lively, Paula Patton and Zoe Saldana, all of whom are gorgeous, but none of whom conform to Hollywood’s cookie-cutter beauty ideal. Neither Aniston nor Lively have perky button noses. Hudson’s, Aniston’s and Saldana’s chests are appropriately sized for their athletic builds. All have laugh lines when they smile.

“There is a greater acceptance of women and aging, and a feeling that women can be beautiful without doing all of that,” says Sarah Finn, casting director for TRON: Legacy, Wall Street: Money Never Sleeps and Thor, discussing Botox, fi llers, surgery and the like. “Female-driven movies like The Kids Are All Right are a good example. The movie was trying to be real and authentic, and both Julianne [Moore] and Annette [Bening] looked like real people.”

But don’t be fooled. Screen-worthy beauty is more than ever the craft of plastic surgeons, dermatologists, aestheticians, dentists, makeup artists and hairstylists. It’s just that the craft is changing. The new beauty benchmark requires aesthetics professionals to have a deft touch and keen eye. Unlike some reality stars whose anatomy appears purchased off the assembly line, actresses and actors of substance don’t want to look like they’ve popped out of a plastic mold. They want to retain their individuality and come across as themselves, but in the best possible state, so that they look immune to the worst effects of aging.

“It is a beauty business,” says April Webster, casting director for the upcoming movie Mission Impossible: Ghost Protocol as well as the television programs Fringe, Criminal

Minds and Lost, of Hollywood. “It’s unfortunate, but it is understandable that a lot of people want to look younger. We don’t venerate age and experience. We venerate youthfulness and attractiveness, especially when we are doing fi lms and television shows.”

“Celebrities want to portray themselves as natural, so they claim that they don’t have plastic surgery. The fact is that they do,” agrees plastic surgeon Renato Calabria. “Plastic surgery has a bad rap because you see some celebrities that have overdone it.”

Plausible deniability—or the art of fi ne-tuning in the range of the genetically probable—is the objective. Moderation is critical to success today, a stark contrast to the age of overload that took off when Botox fi rst promised wrinkle-free ambitions in the Nineties and early 2000s, and injectable fi llers such as Restylane, Juvederm, Sculptra, Radiesse and Artefi ll further infl amed the intemperate mood. “Anything can be done to excess,” says plastic surgeon Norman Leaf. “It is all a matter of balance and taste, and that is hard to acquire and learn.”

In particular, fi ller was responsible for absurdly swollen faces and bodies. Plastic surgeon Sherrell Aston says too much caused lower eyelids that sometimes appeared gray and lumpy, ropy nasal labial folds and chipmunk cheeks. “The pendulum is starting to swing,” he says. “We are seeing more and more people who are coming in now who have tried the fi ller route and realize that they have spent the cost of two facelifts, and many times they look worse or certainly no better than they did before the fi rst fi ller.”

In fact, a good old-fashioned facelift is now preferred. New techniques are being used to prevent the tightly pulled, windswept look of yore. Plastic surgeon Daniel Ronel performs what he calls a modern facelift, in which he pulls the skin straight up rather than at a diagonal. “It is a more natural look because it puts things where they were before, and the healing is easier because that’s where the skin came from,” he says, adding, “It avoids the ugly incision behind the ear that the traditional facelift surgery has.”

By Rachel Brown :: Photographed by George Chinsee

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30 WWD BEAUTY BIZ

Likewise, Bernard Markowitz, a surgeon who’s rumored to have attended to Sharon Stone, tends to shun cheek or chin implants in his facelifts, choosing instead to strategically reposition fallen facial fat and tighten the layer beneath the skin to add volume to the upper middle of the face. He says the method addresses both volume and skin-quality issues, while fi llers can only attempt to tackle the lack of volume. “When you have a young, full face, when it changes it is not just fat volume being lost, the skin changes as well, so to get that youthful appearance you have to put so much stuff in there that it looks ridiculous,” says Markowitz, referring to fi llers.

Fat—a dirty word in Hollywood—is also being looked at in new terms, particularly fat grafting to improve facial volume. “As we age, we lose the fat in our face. It is not just the stuff that makes us look round and pudgy. It is the deep fat,” says plastic surgeon John Layke, who performs fat injections in the face. “If we can re-volumize the deep compartments of the face, then everything tends to be lifted, it looks a little more youthful.”

Still, the process is easier said than done, and the results can be uneven at best. It takes expert extraction, washing and insertion of the fat. “It is like seeds,” says plastic surgeon Lawrence Koplin. “It works, but you have to do it right and put extra in because not all the seeds germinate….You

overcompensate a little bit because you know you are going to lose some.”Plastic surgeon Robert Guida has been using a process called

NaturalFill for the last few months, in which he harvests a patient’s own fat and keeps it intact for a transfer to the face. Compared to fi llers, Guida says NaturalFill procedures can “last longer” —he approximates around 12 months to fi llers’ six to nine months—and give “a more contoured, softer look as opposed to a more elevated, arched, extreme look.”

The diffi culties of fat grafting—its variability and short-term nature—are driving an interest in procedures tapping stem cells found in fat in what could perhaps be the next revolution in cosmetic medicine, if not almost every medical discipline. Fat has a very high concentration of stem cells—higher than even bone marrow and skin—that can be segregated and inserted, along with fat, during boob jobs or facelifts. The stem cells signal blood vessels to grow into the fat, and the fat fl ourishes to encourage lasting volume.

“We notice that the skin looks better when you put fat stem cells in,” says Koplin. “It has more of a blood supply to it, and even the tiny fi ne lines get better. You don’t get that from fi llers.”

Plastic surgeon Calabria has employed Cytori Therapeutics’ cutting-edge Celution System for procedures in Europe (it is not approved by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration) to isolate the stem cells in fat. After they are isolated, he then mixes the stem cells with purifi ed fat for injections into the face. That mixture contains a much greater amount of stem cells than in fat alone and increases the chances that healthy stem cell activity will occur.

“You have turbocharged fat,” says Calabria. “It is too early to predict how much potential this technology has, but the same type of surgery is going to be used [for] other areas of the body.

“This is the future,” he adds. All of this doesn’t mean that Botox is down for the count, just that its use is becoming more

refi ned—and covert. Actresses Teri Hatcher and Courteney Cox have publicly sworn off Botox, and even Meg Ryan and Nicole Kidman, who could have been spokeswomen for frozen faces and megalips, seem to have checked their facial manipulation. “That Nicole Kidman, total emotionless look was so obvious,” says dermatologist Harold Lancer. “The majority of people just want to be softened a little bit.”

Plastic surgeon Daniel Ronel estimates he uses 30 percent less Botox per patient than he would have around fi ve years ago. “I see people getting a little bit less and maybe stretching it out before their next time. Instead of four months, they go six months,” he says. Likewise, Lancer says he usually injects four drops of Botox alternative Dysport twice a year to level frown lines rather than the 10 drops he injected previously on a more frequent basis.

Dermatologist Jessica Wu says she now uses Botox to soften expression lines instead of totally wiping them out by injecting small

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WWD BEAUTY BIZ 31

doses all over the face rather than condensing doses in the upper face. “I will no longer do so much Botox that a forehead is completely stiff,” says Wu. “That used to be our goal.” Wu notes that she’s also more frequently addressing the lower face and injecting Botox at the jaw in front of the earlobe to sharpen the jawline.

Fillers are being treated with much more discretion as well. Lips pumped up from one end to the other are too extreme for the emerging aesthetic. Even Lisa Rinna—who for years denied having artifi cial fi llers in her overinfl ated pout—recently admitted that she asked plastic surgeon Garth Fisher to defl ate her famous pucker.

For his part, Guida focuses on accentuating the peaks of the upper lip called the Cupid’s bow and likewise amplifi es the middle of the lower lip before tapering fi ller out to the corners of the mouth. “People laugh at that [fi sh lips] look, but they still want their lips fuller—just in the center part of the lip or a Cupid’s bow,” he says. In terms of natural beauties, Scarlett Johansson has the most covetable natural mouth.

As with lips, breasts, too, are being downsized, and implants kept more natural-looking. When Kate Hudson reportedly decided to celebrate her 31st birthday with new breasts, the results were subtle. In his practice, Ronel says the average breast implant fi ve years ago was 400 cc’s, and it has gone down almost a cup size smaller to 300 cc’s. For women with athletic builds, Calabria recommends no larger than a C cup regardless of height. “Big breasts are completely out,” he says. “The look is in proportion with the body frame.”

Surgeons are vigilant about preventing breast scarring that’s a dead giveaway for surgery, and Ronel says he’s noticing women are more often opting to place implants behind their muscles. “It adds an extra layer of padding over the implant so it looks more natural,” he says.

Also out are rhinoplasties leading to scooped-out, turned-up and pinched noses, according to plastic surgeon Richard Fleming. In fact, he says around two-thirds of the nose jobs he does

RAJ KANODIA414 North Camden DriveBeverly Hills310.276.3106Known as the nose maestro. Cameron Diaz, Jennifer Aniston, Cindy Crawford, Megan Fox and Ashlee Simpson-Wentz are just a few of the celebs thought to have chosen him to perfect their noses. Kanodia sticks to a closed rhinoplasty method and shies away from drastic changes. “Quite often, I’m able to fool the mother’s eye, and the mother’s eye is

the keenest,” he says. WAIT LIST: Four to six months for a nose job.

GARTH FISHER 120 South Spalding DriveBeverly Hills310.273.5995Fisher has had his hands on so many breasts in Hol-lywood it would make Hugh Hefner blush. Of course, that means he occasionally erects a pair of gazongas, but Fisher is considered thoughtful in his approach. Holly Madison, best known as Hefner’s ex-girlfriend, told Us Weekly, “The doctor wanted to go smaller and I talked him up!” He’s also well regarded as

a revisionist, tapped by the likes of Lisa Rinna and Bruce Jenner. WAIT LIST: Four months

for a breast augmentation.

STEVEN SVEHLAK 9201 W. Sunset BoulevardWest Hollywood310.858.9100Svehlak will do facelifts, fat grafting, brow-lifts, nose work, eyelid surgery, ear enhance-ment and fi llers, but he’s become recognized most of all for breast and body work. Tara Reid picked him after going “to a million different doctors” to perform a so-called doughnut mastopexy to rectify a botched boob job, and liposuction to smooth out the poor results of previous stomach lipo. Svehlak has said his approach is to keep it subtle. WAIT LIST: About one month for breast augmentation.

BRIAN NOVACK 414 North Camden DriveBeverly Hills 310.888.8818Novack could probably have enough funds to cover many lifetimes if he sold celebrity plastic-surgery secrets to the prying media. As it is, he is doing just fi ne in this lifetime with a bevy of high-profi le patients said to include Courteney Cox and Demi Moore, who has reportedly tested Novack’s repertoire with liposuction to the hips, thighs and stomach; breast

implants; a knee lift, and facial rejuve-nation. WAIT LIST: Four to fi ve months

for a facelift.

BERNARD MARKOWITZ9675 Brighton WayBeverly Hills 310.205.5557It’s rumored Sharon Stone leaves it up to Markowitz to handle her preserva-tion—and that seems to have turned out pretty well. Markowitz is vociferous about steering clear of the latest plastic-surgery fads. “I have to really work hard to get a result,” he says. “There’s no way I can put a string in [a face], tighten it up for 10 minutes and get any kind of result.” WAIT LIST: Three to four months for a facelift.

LAWRENCE KOPLIN465 North Roxbury DriveBeverly Hills310.277.3223Koplin could be described as a facial-fat fanatic. He be-lieves that what many plastic surgeons miss in facelifts is bringing volume back to the face with fat, and he special-izes in fat-grafting processes in tandem with traditional facelifts to do just that. “If you don’t do fat transfer with a facelift or a neck-lift, it’s a failure,” says Koplin, who is rumored to have worked on rectifying Michael Jackson’s past surgery mishaps.WAIT LIST: About one month for a facelift.

Few dare speak Hollywood’s plastic-surgery secrets aloud, but the names of the doctors to the stars are passed along secretly in elite circles. The following six Los Angeles–area doctors are names whispered frequently among insiders, praised for delivering tasteful results worthy of secret keeping. BY MARCY MEDINA AND RACHEL BROWN

correct a previous error in the minds of patients, many of whom complain about not getting a natural nose. “You want a strong, well-defi ned nose in general,” says Fleming.

Plastic surgeon Raj Kanodia, whose nose jobs are prized in Hollywood (reportedly by the likes of Jennifer Aniston and Cameron Diaz), adheres to a scar-free closed rhinoplasty method without cutting at the columella or base of the nose between the nostrils that he fi gures 95 percent of other surgeons do. “They are using a lot of [cartilage and bone] grafting, which takes away the subtlety of the nose, and it no longer looks like the original nose,” he says. “I do a little fi le here, a little touch there, and I don’t take away the character of the nose.”

It’s not just plastic surgery that’s geared toward the new, restrained norm. Dentists have sharpened their skills

at producing perfectly imperfect smiles, crafting veneers with variations to resemble real teeth. The secret is re-creating translucency at the tip of the teeth, a higher value of color at the middle and a warmer color toward the gums, says cosmetic dentist Bill Dorfman. “People who want teeth that are all one color end up with Chiclets, and those don’t look natural,” he says.

Dentist Bill Frey expounds that veneers shouldn’t be smooth and fl at but should mimic the curves of teeth that “go up and down like a rolling hill. When light refracts and saliva gets on it, it is going to look more natural,” he says.

If this all sounds high maintenance, it’s because it is. The bottom line, according to Kate Somerville, whose eponymous skin clinic in West Hollywood is a magnet for young Hollywood, the emergence of a new beauty standard doesn’t mean the efforts of the old disappear. “We are trying to achieve this natural beauty that looks like it doesn’t take a lot of work, but unfortunately it still does,” she says. “We want fl awless skin. We want white teeth. We want our hair to be silky. Like the Jennifer Anistons of the world, we want that beachy beauty. It still takes work,” she sighs, “but I wish it didn’t.”

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Rising star Julija Step shows off her chameleonlike transformational abilities during a jam-packed New York Fashion Week.

By Jenny B. Fine :: Photographed by Guy Aroch

As the lights came up on the Rodarte runway, out strode Julija Step, her eyelashes, lips and hair gilded with accents of burnished metallic makeup. It’s no wonder one of fashion’s buzziest labels chose Step to open the show. The 17-year-old Lithuanian is one of beauty’s newest golden girls. This season—only her second on the international fashion circuit—Step walked in 42 shows. In addition to Rodarte, her roster included Marc by Marc Jacobs, Proenza Schouler and Rag & Bone in New York; Dolce & Gabbana and Missoni in Milan, and Chanel, Lanvin, Rochas and Nina Ricci in Paris. She’s been photographed by Steven Meisel for Italian Vogue, by Craig McDean for W and Interview, by Chad Pittman for Numéro, and already has a Balenciaga campaign under her belt.

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11:20 A.M.: Sept. 9 at Richard Chai LoveMakeup by Gucci Westman for RevlonHair by Kevin Ryan for Rsession Tools

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9:00 A.M.: Sept. 11 at Jill Stuart 11:00 A.M.: Sept. 10 at Rag & Bone

7

4:30 P.M.: Sept. 11 at Alexander Wang

Makeup by Charlotte Tilbury for Jill StuartHair by Eugene Souleiman for Wella

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1:10 P.M.: Sept. 12 at DKNY

7:30 P.M.: Sept. 11 at Altuzarra

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Makeup by Tom Pecheux for MACHair by Paul Hanlon for Tigi

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36 WWD BEAUTY BIZ

Not bad for a full-time student currently in her junior year of high school back home in Vilnius.Though she has mastered the requisite runway look of betraying absolutely no emotion as she

stalks the catwalk, in real life Step is always smiling, a vivacious, cheerful presence backstage who chats merrily with her model friends and the myriad makeup artists, hairstylists and dress-ers who surround her as they prepare for the show.

“I am always cheerful, 100 percent optimistic,” she says in impeccable English. “I’m also really stubborn. My father says about me that if I want something, I’m going to get it. And I’m always smiling. I love to smile.”

She kept that smile f irmly planted on her face during her f irst runway experience, at a Gucci resort show in Milan. “It was so exciting,” she says. “I was the youngest girl there, with all of the top models. I didn’t realize how big it was. I just smiled and was nice to everyone—I didn’t know exactly what to do.”

Today, there’s no question that Step is a runway whiz, expertly ticking off the differences between the fashion capitals (“New York is a ball of energy,” she says, while the weather in Lon-don “doesn’t always bring the best mood in the morning”) and her fail-proof packing strategy for coping with a solid six weeks of traveling without a side trip home. “Light,” she laughs. “I had one big suitcase, and I tried not to take too many clothes, especially because I knew that in New York I would get a lot of clothes from trade. I’m glad I didn’t bring too much. By the end of fashion week, I had to really squeeze my luggage to close it.”

Step describes her personal style as romantic rather than edgy—Dolce & Gabbana, with its gently tousled updo and glowy makeup was her favorite beauty look of the season—and, like most girls her age, confesses to being an accessories freak. In New York, she toted a chic Celine bag that was a gift from last season. Her beauty routine is minimalist in the way that only a teenager’s can be. Asked about her secret for keeping her skin fresh and clear after a month of having her face made up over and over again, she has to think for a moment, before answering makeup remover.

Discovered while buying some candy at her favorite chocolatier during an outing in the city center, Step wants to f inish school before pursuing her modeling career full time. Her strongest subjects are English, art and history, less popular are physics, chemistry and math. “This year I don’t have to take them anymore, and I feel so happy about that.”

Refreshingly down-to-earth despite her heady lifestyle, she ticks off “being responsible, being f lexible and being communicative” as the three main lessons she’s learned from modeling. And when asked if there’s any certain model who she particularly admires or looks up to, her re-sponse is immediate. “Everybody,” she says. “Every single model who is doing well in the fashion business has her own charm, and I admire all of them.” And if her career follows along its current trajectory, chances are she’ ll be just the type of model future aspirants look up to.

9:00 A.M.: Sept. 16 at J.Mendel

12:00 P.M.: Sept. 16 at Diesel Black GoldMakeup by Lucia Pieroni for Clé de Peau BeautéHair by Guido Palau for Redken

Makeup by Bobbi Brown for Bobbi BrownHair by Ted Gibson for L’Oréal Professionnel

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LAST CALL

HOW DO YOU DEFINE BEAUTY?This will come out clichéd and slightly cheesy, but it starts with attitude, personality and kindness—and a little bit of hygiene. The most beautiful women are the most fun and compassionate. But then every once in a while a woman walks into a room and she is just strikingly gorgeous. The image of a mother is the most beautiful thing. HOW DO YOU NURTURE YOUR MIND, BODY AND SOUL?When you’re busy and have kids and a career and are in a relationship and are trying to balance everything, it’s always important to take some time out for yourself each day. My mom taught me that. No matter what it is. Painting your toenails or meditation or reading a book. Exercise is vital. We need our bodies moving and blood pumping. I go in spurts. For a month I’ll be obsessed with something, and then a month will go by without me touching a weight or going to a gym. I try to just enjoy life and do what it feels my body is telling me. Sometimes it’s to push it, and sometimes it’s to back off. I’ve always been a dancer, but I also run, spin, do yoga and Pilates.WHAT DO YOU CONSIDER YOUR BEST BEAUTY ASSET?I have green eyes, and it’s always nice to accentuate them. I have had more magazines Photoshop my eyes blue! AT A RECENT LUNCH WITH RON PERELMAN [THE MAJORITY SHAREHOLDER OF REVLON], HE TOLD WWD HE MEETS WITH ALL SPOKESMODEL CANDIDATES BEFORE SIGNING THEM. WHAT WAS YOUR MEETING WITH RON LIKE? I have known Ron for a while, and we’ve always had a wonderful relationship. He is such a warm, hands-on, fun guy and he approached me with [the opportunity to represent] Almay. They sent me a bunch of products—and I am somewhat of a product junkie—and I just started trying everything. My makeup artist uses Almay all the time, so I knew the products. They do the best eye pencils, and I love the oil-free makeup remover. Some of the new stuff they’re doing is cool. There’s a “wake up” makeup, like a powder foundation, and it gets cool on your face and it feels really good. AS ONE OF HOLLYWOOD’S LEADING YOUNG ACTRESSES, YOU’RE UNDER AN ENORMOUS AMOUNT OF SCRUTINY EVERY TIME YOU WALK OUT THE DOOR. WHAT’S YOUR STRATEGY FOR DEALING WITH THAT? I don’t have one. I should be more calculated! I just try to live my life and not concern myself with that. I am still getting blindsided, and I don’t understand it. In my daily life I just do what I feel. I try not to pay attention to the scrutiny. It’s very negative—the media circle around celebrities and picking people apart—and I don’t want to teach my children that. I fi nd it a little bizarre, so I don’t pay much attention to it.

01

KATE HUDSON

Actress Kate Hudson may be considered Hollywood royalty, but she’s no pampered princess. The down-to-earth mom—and

newly minted Almay spokeswoman—is as low maintenance as an A-lister gets. Among her beauty secrets: getting enough sleep, taking

time for herself and drinking copious amounts of her mom’s (that would be Goldie Hawn)

green juice. Here, her recipe for the magic elixir and how she strategizes (not!) for the paparazzi.

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YOU’RE A BIG PROPONENT OF NATURAL BEAUTY, BUT AT THE SAME TIME, HOLLYWOOD PUTS A LOT OF PRESSURE ON ACTRESSES TO LOOK FOREVER YOUNG. WOULD YOU CONSIDER FACIAL PLASTIC SURGERY? If it’s there, I am sure when the time comes I would want to know about it. I don’t have judgments against women who do it. I haven’t come to that point yet, so I haven’t had to think about it. It’s a different time and there are all sorts of things—laser treatments and peels—and I don’t judge a woman for it. Obviously, when they go crazy with it, it’s defi nitely not attractive, but I think that it’s a personal choice.YOU’VE PARTNERED WITH HAIR STYLIST DAVID BABAII ON A NATURAL HAIR CARE LINE, AND NOW YOU’VE JOINED ALMAY. DO YOU LIKE BEING BEHIND THE SCENES? Yeah. I like it if the product has some consciousness—whether it’s affi liated with an organization or it’s naturally based. Women put so much on their face, and it’s important that [products] be as clean as possible. There are all sorts of harmful things that should be taken out of products. WHAT’S THE BEST BEAUTY TIP YOUR MOM TAUGHT YOU? Sleep. And her green juice. She has this thing for greens and high levels of chlorophyll. The juice is made with water and kale and spinach and omegas and fl axseed oil. I just had one of my mom’s green juices this morning. HOW HAS MOTHERHOOD CHANGED YOUR BEAUTY REGIMEN?It has made it a lot harder. I don’t have as much time. I don’t remember the last time I had a facial. But there is something about being around your baby that makes you glow. HIGH MAINTENANCE OR LOW?I come somewhere in between. Nobody wants to admit it. Of course my brothers would say I am high and my friends would say low. But if you saw me right now, I’m defi nitely low maintenance, with chipped polish and hair not brushed. In terms of beauty regimen, I am defi nitely low maintenance. But in terms of work and laziness, I don’t like when people are lazy. When it comes to work, I am high maintenance. I expect everybody to show up.

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01 Kate Hudson at Burberry’s fall 2010 show. 02 Favorite

Almay eye shadows.

BB1011.038.LC.Kate Hudson.a;17.indd 38 11/1/10 12:50 PM

WWD 100 YEARS | 100 DESIGNERS Adolfo Azzedine Alaia Giorgio Armani Christopher

Bailey Cristóbal Balenciaga Pierre Balmain Geoffrey Beene Bill Blass Marc Bohan Callot Soeurs Pierre Cardin Hattie Carnegie

Bonnie Cashin Oleg Cassini Roberto Cavalli Hussein Chalayan Gabrielle Chanel Liz Claiborne Francisco Costa André Courrèges

Oscar de la Renta Christian Dior Dolce & Gabbana Alber Elbaz Perry Ellis Jacques Fath Gianfranco Ferré Tom Ford James

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Martin Margiela Claire McCardell Stella McCartney Alexander McQueen Tai and Rosita Missoni Isaac Mizrahi Captain Edward

Molyneux Claude Montana Thierry Mugler Norman Norell Rick Owens Thakoon Panichgul Jean Patou Phoebe Philo Stefano

Pilati Paul Poiret Zac Posen Miuccia Prada Proenza Schouler Emilio Pucci Paco Rabanne Rodarte Narciso Rodriguez Sonia

Rykiel Yves Saint Laurent Jil Sander Giorgio di Sant’Angelo Arnold Scaasi Elsa Schiaparelli Raf Simons Willi Smith Steven

Sprouse Anna Sui Olivier Theyskens Riccardo Tisci Emanuel Ungaro Valentino Dries Van Noten Donatella Versace Gianni

Versace Madeleine Vionnet Diane von Furstenberg Alexander Wang Vera Wang Vivienne Westwood Jason Wu Yohji Yamamoto

Adolfo Azzedine Alaia Giorgio Armani Christopher Bailey Cristóbal Balenciaga Pierre Balmain Geoffrey Beene Bill Blass Marc

Bohan Callot Soeurs Pierre Cardin Hattie Carnegie Bonnie Cashin Oleg Cassini Roberto Cavalli Hussein Chalayan Gabrielle

Chanel Liz Claiborne Francisco Costa André Courrèges Oscar de la Renta Christian Dior Dolce & Gabbana Alber Elbaz Perry

Ellis Jacques Fath Gianfranco Ferré Tom Ford James Galanos John Galliano Jean Paul Gaultier Nicolas Ghesquière Frida

Giannini Hubert de Givenchy Madame Grès Halston Carolina Herrera Tommy Hilfiger Marc Jacobs Charles James Betsey

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Pucci Paco Rabanne Rodarte Narciso Rodriguez Sonia Rykiel Yves Saint Laurent Jil Sander Giorgio di Sant’Angelo Arnold

Scaasi Elsa Schiaparelli Raf Simons Willi Smith Steven Sprouse Anna Sui Olivier Theyskens Riccardo Tisci Emanuel Ungaro

Valentino Dries Van Noten Donatella Versace Gianni Versace Madeleine Vionnet Diane von Furstenberg Alexander Wang Vera

Wang Vivienne Westwood Jason Wu Yohji Yamamoto Adolfo Azzedine Alaia Giorgio Armani Christopher Bailey Cristóbal

Balenciaga Pierre Balmain Geoffrey Beene Bill Blass Marc Bohan Callot Soeurs Pierre Cardin Hattie Carnegie Bonnie Cashin

Oleg Cassini Roberto Cavalli Hussein Chalayan Gabrielle Chanel Liz Claiborne Francisco Costa André Courrèges Oscar de

la Renta Christian Dior Dolce & Gabbana Alber Elbaz Perry Ellis Jacques Fath Gianfranco Ferré Tom Ford James Galanos

John Galliano Jean Paul Gaultier Nicolas Ghesquière Frida Giannini Hubert de Givenchy Madame Grès Halston Carolina

Herrera Tommy Hilfiger Marc Jacobs Charles James Betsey Johnson Norma Kamali Donna Karan Rei Kawakubo Anne

Klein Calvin Klein Michael Kors Christian Lacroix Karl Lagerfeld Helmut Lang Jeanne Lanvin Ralph Lauren Mainbocher

Martin Margiela Claire McCardell Stella McCartney Alexander McQueen Tai and Rosita Missoni Isaac Mizrahi Captain Edward

Molyneux Claude Montana Thierry Mugler Norman Norell Rick Owens Thakoon Panichgul Jean Patou Phoebe Philo Stefano

Pilati Paul Poiret Zac Posen Miuccia Prada Proenza Schouler Emilio Pucci Paco Rabanne Rodarte Narciso Rodriguez Sonia

Rykiel Yves Saint Laurent Jil Sander Giorgio di Sant’Angelo Arnold Scaasi Elsa Schiaparelli Raf Simons Willi Smith Steven

Sprouse Anna Sui Olivier Theyskens Riccardo Tisci Emanuel Ungaro Valentino Dries Van Noten Donatella Versace Gianni

Versace Madeleine Vionnet Diane von Furstenberg Alexander Wang Vera Wang Vivienne Westwood Jason Wu Yohji Yamamoto

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