Alok Final Internship Report

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SUMMER INDUSTRIAL TRAINING

REPORT

A Training Report Submitted to the

17/5/1,Village Rakholi,Sayli,Khanvel Road

Silvassa, Union Territory of Dadra and Nagar Haveli

National Institute of Fashion Technology

NIFT KANGRA

SUBMITTED BY:-

RISHIKESH KUMAR

TEXTILE DESIGNING,SEMESTER-VII

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ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

We express our deep sense of gratitude towards Alok family. In the tenure we stayed here, apart from the

technical aspect, we have learnt the important aspects that make an organisation work successfully. The working

culture of Alok Industries has taught us the need for discipline and dedication to reach high standards,

maintaining these during this learning expedition of ours we have been given helping hand by many.

We express our sincere thanks to Mr. RINKU NATH, (Sr Manager H.R.& IR ), Alok Industries

Limited, Silvassa for granting us the permission to pursue our Summer Industrial Training at their

organization.

We express our special thanks to Prof. DR. G. K. TYAGI and Mr. ARVIND VASHISHTH

(Training & placement officer) for providing us the opportunity to do our Summer Industrial

Training at Alok Industries Limited, Silvassa.

We want to thank Mr. AKSHESH KARNIK (OFFICER H.R.) ,and all concerned H.O.D Weaving, Alok

Industries Limited, Silvassa for their support and help throughout our training period. We extend our sincere

thanks to Mr. MANOJ MONDAL (Deputy MANAGER TRAINING & Development), Alok Industries

Limited, Silvassa for his valuable suggestions and guidence throughout our tenure.

They supported us whole heartedly in performing our activities at their organization and for

successful completion of the project. We also thank rest all the executives and non executives of

Alok Industries Limited, Silvassa for their valuable support and cooperation.

The services of all the employees, especially the technical staffs are hereby acknowledged with

thanks.

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TABLE OF CONTENT

S.

No. Topic

1 TEXTILE INDUSTRY – A PERSPECTIVE

2 THE GROUP:

MANAGEMENT

MILESTONE

3 PRODUCTION PLANNING & CONTROL

4 RAW MATERIAL

5 DESIGN DEPARTMENT

6 QUALITY ASSURANCE

7 SIZING

8 AUTODRAWING

9 WEAVING DEPARTMENT

10 UTILITY

11 WEAVING MAINTAINCE

12 FOLDING & DISPATCH

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TEXTILE INDUSTRY

A PERSPECTIVE

The textile mills and products industry comprises establishments that produce yarn, thread, and

fabric and also a wide variety of textile products for use by individuals and businesses, but not including

apparel. Some of the items made in this industry include household items, such as carpets and rugs, towels,

curtains, and sheets; cord and twine; furniture and automotive upholstery; and industrial belts and fire

hoses. The process of converting raw fibres into finished non-apparel textile products is complex; thus,

most textile mills specialize. In general, there is little overlap between knitting and weaving mills, or among

mills that produce cotton and wool fabrics.

Textile mills take natural and synthetic fibres, such as cotton and polyester and transform them into

yarn, thread, or webbing. Yarns are strands of fibres in a form ready for weaving, knitting, or otherwise

intertwining to form a textile fabric. They form the basis for most textile production and commonly are

made of cotton, wool, or synthetic fibre, such as polyester. Yarns also can be made of thin strips of plastic,

paper, or metal. To produce spun yarn, natural fibres, such as cotton and wool, must first be processed to

remove impurities and give products the desired texture and durability, as well as other characteristics.

After this initial cleaning stage, the fibres are spun into yarn.

Knitting is another method of transforming yarn into fabric. Knitting interlocks a series of loops of one or

more yarns to form familiar goods, such as sweaters. However, unlike the knitting done with hand held

needles, knitting in the textile industry is performed on automated machines. Many consumer items, such

as socks and underwear are produced from knitted fabric.

At any time during the production process, a number of processes, called finishing, may be performed on

the fabric. These processes, which include dyeing, bleaching, and stonewashing, among others, may be

performed by the textile mill or at a separate finishing mill. Finishing encompasses chemical or mechanical

treatments performed on fibre, yarn, or fabric to improve appearance, texture, or performance. Mechanical

finishes can involve brushing, ironing, or other physical treatments used to increase the lustre and feel of

textiles. Application of chemical finishes to textiles can impart a variety of properties ranging from

decreasing static cling to increasing flame resistance.

The most common chemical finishes are those that ease fabric care, such as the permanent press and stain

resistant finishes. Dyeing operations are used at various stages of production to add colour and intricacy to

textiles and increase product value. Textiles are dyed using a wide range of dyestuffs, techniques, and

equipment. Most fabrics that are dyed, printed, or finished must first be prepared. In preparation, the mill

removes natural impurities or processing chemicals that interfere with dyeing, printing, and finishing.

Typical preparation treatments include desizing, scouring, and bleaching. Finally the finished cloth is

fabricated into a variety of household and industrial products.

Regardless of the process used, mills in the textile industry are rapidly modernising, as new investments

in automation and information technology have been made necessary by growing domestic and

international competition. Firms also have responded to competition by developing new products and

services. For example, some manufacturers are producing textiles developed from fibres made from

recycled materials. These innovations have had a wide effect across the industry. Advanced machinery is

boosting productivity levels in textiles, costing some workers their jobs, while fundamentally changing

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the nature of work for others. New technology also has led to broad and increasing technical training for

workers throughout the industry.

The emphasis in the industry continues to shift from mass production to flexible manufacturing, as textile

mills aim to supply customized markets. Firms are concentrating on systems that allow small quantities to

be produced with minimum leadtime. This flexibility brings consumer goods to retailers significantly faster

than before. Information technology allows the retail industry to rapidly assess its needs and communicate

them back through the apparel manufacturer to textile firms.

Working Conditions

Working conditions vary greatly. Production workers, including front line managers and

supervisors, spend most of their shift on or near the production floor. Some factories are noisy and can

have airborne fibres and odours; but most modern textile facilities are relatively clean, well lit, and

ventilated.

Various types of protective devices and clothing have greatly reduced accidents like protective

shoes, clothing, facemasks, and earplugs. Also, new machinery is designed with additional protection, such

as noise shields. Still, many workers in production occupations must stand for long periods while bending

over machinery, and noise and dust still are a problem in some plants. Workers are also sometimes exposed

to hazardous situations that could produce cuts or minor burns if proper safety practices are not observed.

Also, some workers are occasionally exposed to the fumes and odours of coolants and lubricants used in

machines.

Because many mills run 24 hours a day as the cost of new machinery continues to increase,

production workers may work evenings and weekends. Many operators work on rotating schedules, which

can cause sleep disorders and other stress from constant changes in work hours. Overtime is common for

these workers during periods of peak production. Managerial and administrative support personnel

typically work a 5-day, 48-hour week in an office setting,

Although some of these employees also may work significant overtime. Quality control inspectors and

other workers may need to travel to other production sites, especially if working for large companies.

Physical Work Conditions

Always work indoors.

Are sometimes exposed to hazardous equipment. There is some possibility of moderate injury.

Sometimes wear protective glasses or masks and earplugs. Extruding machine operators may wear

protective shoes and clothing when working with certain chemicals.

Are sometimes exposed to contaminants. This is more likely for bleaching and dyeing machine

operators.

Are sometimes exposed to hazardous situations that could produce cuts or minor burns. However, the

likelihood of even slight injury is low.

Are sometimes exposed to sounds and noise levels that are distracting or uncomfortable.

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Physical Demands

People in this career frequently

Use hands to handle, control, or feel objects, tools, or controls.

Stand or sit for long periods of time.

Repeat the same movements over and over.

Bend or twist the body.

It is important for people in this career to be able to :-

Make quick, precise adjustments to machine controls.

Hold the arm and hand in one position or hold the hand steady while moving the arm.

Use hands or fingers to grasp, move, or assemble small objects.

Make fast, simple, repeated movements of fingers, hands, and wrists.

Bend, stretch, twist, or reach out with the body, arms, and / or legs.

React quickly using hands, fingers, or feet.

Adjust body movements or equipment controls to keep pace with speed changes of moving objects.

Use muscles to lift, push, pull, or carry heavy objects.

See details of objects that are less than a few feet away.

See differences between colours, shades, and brightness.

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It is not as important, but still necessary, for people in this career to be able to

Move two or more limbs together (for example, two arms, two legs, or one leg and one arm) while

remaining in one place.

Quickly and repeatedly bend, stretch, twist, or reach out with the body, arms, and / or legs.

Move arms and legs quickly.

Choose quickly and correctly among various movements when responding to different signals.

Coordinate movement of several parts of the body, such as arms and legs, while the body is moving.

Use stomach and lower back muscles to support the body for long periods without getting tired.

Use muscles or be physically active for long periods without getting tired.

Use muscles to jump, sprint, or throw objects.

Speak clearly so listeners can understand.

See details of objects that are more than a few feet away.

Determine the distance between objects.

Hear sounds and recognize the difference between them.

Skills and Abilities

People in this career need to

Communicate

Read and understand written materials.

Understand spoken information by listening to others and asking questions.

Express ideas clearly when speaking.

Reason and Problem Solve

Follow guidelines to arrange objects or actions in a certain order.

Notice when something is wrong or is likely to go wrong.

Identify problems and review information.

Examine solutions to problems and evaluate their effectiveness.

Use Mathematics and Science

Use mathematical skills to solve problems.

Manage Oneself, People, Time and Things

Check how well one is learning or doing something.

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Work with Things

Operate and control equipment.

Watch gauges, dials, and output to make sure a machine is working properly.

Test, inspect, and evaluate the quality of products.

Maintain and repair equipment on a routine basis. Determine when and what kind of maintenance is

needed.

Determine the tools and equipment needed to do a job.

Determine the causes of technical problems and find solutions for them.

Install or set up equipment to meet specifications.

Perceive and Visualize

Imagine how something will look if it is moved around or its parts are rearranged.

Quickly and accurately compare letters, numbers, objects, pictures, or patterns.

Knowledge

People in this career need knowledge in the following areas

Mechanical knowledge of designing, using, and repairing machines and tools.

Production and Processing: Knowledge of how products are made and supplied.

Occupation in the Industry

Textile industry offers jobs in various avenues especially in the production sector. Additional opportunities

also exist in material-moving, administrative support, maintenance, repair, management, and professional

occupations. The industry also employs a small number of workers in service and sales occupations.

Many workers enter the textile industry as machine setters and operators, the largest occupational group in

the industry. They are responsible for setting each machine and monitoring its operation. They inspect their

machines to determine if they need repairs or adjustments. They may clean and oil their machines, and

repair or replace worn parts. Additionally, they must diagnose problems when the machinery stops and

restart it as soon as possible, to reduce costly machine idle time. Textile machine setters and operators also

install, level, and align components such as gears, chains, dies, cutters, and needles.

Textile machine setters and operators thread yarn, thread, or fabric through guides, needles, or rollers.

Extruding machine operators load chemicals or wood pulp into their machines. They adjust the controls for

proper tension, speed, and heat; for electronically controlled equipment, they program controls or key in

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instructions using a computer keyboard. Operators then start the machines and monitor their operation,

observing control panels and gauges to detect problems.

Skilled production occupations also include quality control inspectors, who use precision measuring

instruments and complex testing equipment to detect product defects, wear, or deviations from

specifications.

Among installation, maintenance, and repair occupations, industrial machinery mechanics account for a

good percentage of industry employment. They inspect machines to make sure they are working properly.

They clean, oil, and grease parts and tighten belts on a regular basis. When necessary, they make

adjustments or replace worn parts and put the equipment back together. Mechanics are under pressure to

fix equipment quickly because breakdowns usually stop or slow production. In addition to making repairs,

mechanics help install new machines.

They may enter instructions for computer controlled machinery and demonstrate the equipment to machine

operators. Plant workers who do not operate or maintain equipment mostly perform a variety of other

material-moving tasks. Some drive industrial trucks or tractors to move materials around the plant load and

unload trucks and railroad cars, or package products and materials by hand.

People in this career perform the following list of tasks, but the tasks are common to many

occupations. Control machines and processes.

Monitor events, materials, and surroundings.

Handle and move objects.

Inspect equipment, structures, or materials.

Get information needed to do the job.

Identify objects, actions, and events.

Communicate with supervisors, peers, or subordinates.

Evaluate information against standards.

Perform activities that use the whole body.

Repair and maintain mechanical equipment.

Work Performance

Must be sure that all details are done and their work is exact. Errors could cost the company money

because of lost time and materials.

Must allow the work pace to be set by the speed of the machinery.

Repeat the same physical activities.

Must be aware of frequently changing events, such as how much yarn remains on spools

Interpersonal Relationships

Have a low level of social contact. They get information from supervisors, but work mainly with

machines.

Hours/Travel

May work in night and weekend shifts. Many textile and fibre mills operate 24 hours a day.

Usually work 48 hours a week.

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THE GROUP

Benchmarking global standards in speed, innovation, technology, quality, consistency and punctuality, Alok

offers world class integrated textile solutions.

Keeping abreast with the international trends in fabrics, fashion and technology. Alok possesses vertically

integrated, state-of-the-art production facilities for Home Textiles, Woven and Knitted Apparel Fabrics,

Garments and Polyester Yarns. Alok has today emerged as one of India's leading textile groups.

Origin and Growth

Established in 1986 as a private limited company, Alok began with texturising of yarn and steadily expanded

into weaving, knitting, processing, home textiles and readymade garments. Alok also controls an extensive

embroidery operation through its sister concern, Grabal Alok Impex Ltd.

In 1993, we became a public limited company. Since then we have continued to increase the scale of our

operations and the range of our activities. Today, Alok is amongst the A Group listed companies on India's

leading stock exchanges.

In less than two decades, Alok has grown to become a diversified manufacturer of world-class home textiles,

apparel fabrics, garments and polyester yarns selling directly to manufacturers, exporters, importers, retailers

and brands the world over. With the sales turnover of around Rs. 1250 crore in F.Y. 2004-05, Alok is amongst

the fastest growing vertically integrated textile companies in India.

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Major Milestones

FY 1986 This industry was started named as ALOK TEXTILE PVT. LTD.

FY 1989 Setting up manufacturing facilities for Texturising at Silvassa.(1 no. Texturising

machine).

FY 1991 Commencement of weaving operation at Bhiwandi, District Thane.

Cimmco looms are started .

FY 1993 Conversion into Public Limited Company and IPO of 22,50,000 equity shares of Rs.10/-

each for cash at a premium of Rs.10/- each per share aggregating Rs. 450 lakhs to part

finance Weaving capacity (50 nos. Cimmco looms) at Bhiwandi and expansion of

Texturising capacity (1 no. Texturising machine) at Silvassa.

FY 1994 Expansion of weaving capacity (50 Cimmco Looms) at Bhiwandi and texturising

capacity (3 nos. Texturising machines) at Silvassa.

Turnover of Rs. 50 crores achieved.

FY 1995 Financial and Technical collaboration with Grabal, Albert Grabher Gesellshaft mbH &

Co of Austria for manufacture of embroidered products through a Joint Venture Co. viz.

Grabal Alok Impex Ltd.

FY 1996 Setting up of Knitting Division at Silvassa (8 machines) and state-of-the-art eco-friendly

Process House at Navi Mumbai (3 Stenter).

Turn over of Rs.100 crores achieved.

FY 1997 Expansion of Texturising capacity (5 nos. Texturising machines) at Silvassa.

Turn over of Rs. 150 crores achieved.

Completion of Rights Issue of 74,90,192/- equity shares of Rs.10/- each at a premium of

Rs.10/- per share aggregating to R.1498.04 lakhs to part-finance the process house and

knitting projects.

FY 1998 Modernization and expansion of weaving (24 Sulzer Projectile Looms) at Silvassa.

Private placement of 91,42,700/- equity shares of Rs.10/- each at a premium of Rs.7.50

per share aggregating to Rs.1600 lakhs with FIIs.

FY 1999 Expansion of weaving (28 Sulzer Projectile Looms) and knitting capacities (20

machines) at Silvassa.

Turn over of Rs. 250 crores achieved.

FY 2000 Turnover surpasses Rs. 350 crores.

FY 2001 Undertaken expansion of weaving and processing capacities under TUFS at an aggregate

cost of Rs.190 crores.

Foray into the domestic ready-made Garments sector (OWL Brand).

FY 2002 Rights Issue of 56,70,098/- FCDS of Rs.90/- each aggregating to Rs.51.03 crores to part-

finance the weaving and processing projects.

Completion of Modernisation and Expansion of weaving project (88 Air Jet / Rapier

Sulzer Looms) at Silvassa.

Expansion of knitting capacities (28 machines) at Silvassa.

Turnover surpasses Rs. 550 crores.

FY 2003 “Export Trading House” Status awarded.

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Completion of Modernisation and Expansion of processing project at Vapi. (2 Stenters).

Expansion of Texturising Capacity at Silvassa (10 machines).

Setting Up of Garment Unit at Navi Mumbai (100 stitching machines).

Turnover Surpasses Rs. 750 Crores.

FY 2004 Turnover surpasses Rs.1000 crores. (Exports exceeded Rs.100 crores).

Expansion of Texturising Capacity at Silvassa (30 machines).

Expansion of Knitting Capacity at Silvassa (40 machines).

Expansion of Weaving Capacity at Silvassa (170 Airjet / Rapier Looms).

Foray in to Home Textiles (Bed Sheets) for Direct Exports.

Concluded Mezzanine Finance Transaction of Rs.101 crores (Rs.68 crores Redeemable

Preference Shares and 33 crores warrants) arranged by CLSA.

Preferential allotment of 538890 Equity shares of Rs.10/- each at premium of Rs.55.67

to Body Corporate.

FY 2005 Completed FCCB issued of USD 35 mn (Rs. 153 crores) comprising of 1400 Bonds of

USD 25000 each. Out of these bonds, 1380 bonds have been converted into 31870334

equity shares of Rs. 10/- each at an average price of Rs. 49.68 per share. The proceeds of

the issue are used for augmenting long term margin for working capital, repayment of

debt and normal capex.

Preferential allotment of 11311400 Equity shares of Rs.10/- each at premium of Rs.51/-

per share (promoters 5573700 and IL&FS 5737700) aggregating to Rs. 69 crores. The

proceeds of the same are used to part finance the expansion programme of the

Company.

Conversion of 14,50,000 OFCDs (part) issued to LIC into 2604634 equity shares of Rs.

10/- each at a premium of Rs.45.67 per share.

Exports exceeded Rs. 300 crores.

Expansion of Weaving Capacity at Silvassa (170 Airjet / Rapier Looms).

FY 2006 Texprocil Silver Trophy for 2nd Highest export award in the Manufacturer Exporter –

Made ups Category.

Completed FCCB issue of USD 70 mn about Rs. 306.25 crores (Assumed price 1

USD=43.75) in May and June 2005.

Conversion of balance 14,50,000 OFCDs issued to LIC into 2604634 equity shares of

Rs. 10/- each at a premium of Rs.45.67 per share in June 2005.

Conversion of 5966400 warrants into 5966400 equity shares of Rs. 10 each for cash at a

premium of Rs. 45.67 per share by Niraj Realtors & Shares Pvt. Ltd. (purchased from

TAD (Mauritius) Ltd.) in the month of August 2005.

Completion of wider width weaving and processing under Rs. 1070 crores project in

October 2005.

Completion of new plant for processing of knitted fabric at Vapi and POY plant at

Silvassa.

FY2009 completion of POY-2 unit

turn over- 4317 crore..

FY2010 Completion of FDY unit.

Added Terry Towels to its product range

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FY2011 Completion of unit 9A,B,C&D.

Setting up of unit 9E and under construction Unit 10.

Turn over- 6367 crore.

Export- 2206 crore.

PAT – 376 crore.

FY2012 Sales: 8900 crores

TARGET TILL

FY2017

TURNOVER OF 18000 crores.

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INFRASTRUCTRURE

From yarn dyeing to fabric designing, sampling, texturising, circular knitting, weaving, processing, embroidery,

garment production, and testing…

Alok is fully geared for innovation and product developments… manufacturing and quality assurance. Spread

over 6 locations in Navi Mumbai, Vapi and Silvassa, our major plants are backed by 100% captive power, global

standard effluent treatment units, high standard facilities for our manufacturing, product development and

marketing teams, enabling us meet our customers' expectations in terms of precision, quality, in-time delivery,

environmental and social concerns.

Total Quality Assurance

A huge investment in our sophisticated, ISO 9001:2008 compliant world-class testing lab is the reflection of

Alok’s commitment, confidence as well as philosophy towards maintaining global standards.

Passionate Quality Management has endeared Alok to its highly demanding customers. We have empowered

ourselves with one of the finest in-house textile testing laboratories in India, equipped with the world’s best

testing equipment from Datacolour Macbeth, Werner Mathis and James Heal.

Right from the inputs like yarn, dyestuffs and chemicals, every batch of fabric is tested for weaving and knitting

standards, colour fastness under different conditions, strength, consistency, and all pre-defined parameters of

our own and of course, our customers.

Weaving

New generation CAD systems, high technology preparatory, advanced Sulzer shuttleless rapier and Toyoda

airjet looms to weave 102.70 million meters of most complex woven, dobby and jacquard designs is our major

strength. We can handle a diverse range of woven fabrics- from yarn counts between ne 6's to 140's , widths

from 117 cms. to 340cms and weights from 70 to 500 gsm.

Alok meets the ASTM standard under the stringent American 4 point system for all its weaving

Alok offers a wide range of fashion and functional fabrics- from shirtings, dress materials, voiles, cambrics,

poplins, crepes, georgettes, gauze, stretch fabrics, fil-a-fils, oxfords, chambrays, ginghams, flannels, yarn dyed

stripes/checks, herringbones, tussores and all types of structured fabrics in 100 %

cotton/polyester/viscose/Acrylic and blends. For high performance cotton and cotton blended bottom wear, Alok

offers world class canvas, twills, satins and chinos.

Knitting

Knitting is yet another major strength of Alok. From single jersey, interlocks & ribs to high fashion

jacquards and terrys, from pique to autostripes, polar fleece and velour, Alok offers a very

comprehensive and high fashion range of knitted fabrics in 100% cotton, polyester, viscose,

Lycra®, lurex,and their blends.

214 sophisticated circular knitting machines, largely from Mayer & Cie, Germany are used to

produce around 16,800 tons of knitted fabrics annually in a variety of tubular widths, and

structures for a range of knitwear applications.

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MANAGEMENT

Board of Directors

Shri Ashok Bhai Jiwrajka - Executive Chairman with 29 years of experience in the marketing of

textiles.

Shri Dilip Bhai Jiwrajka - Managing Director with 25 years of experience in the manufacturing

and trading of fabric for the garment industry.

Shri Surendra Bhai Jiwrajka - Jt. Managing Director with 23 years of experience in the trading

and manufacturing of yarn.

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ENVIRONMENT, HEALTH AND SAFETY DEPARMENT

ENVIRONMENT, HEALTH AND SAFETY POLICY

Alok Industries Limited recognizes the importance of managing effectively and seeking

continuous improvement in health, safety and environmental matters as an integral part of its

business activities. It has been our continuous endeavor to provide an environment, which ensures

health, safe working conditions and safe practices.

We are committed to:

Prevention and control of land, air, water and noise pollution

Conservation of natural resources. Developing green zones in and around our plants and offices.

Compliance with applicable environmental laws, rules and regulations

Prevention of Child Labour

Reduction in waste generation and its proper disposal.

Providing a safe and healthy environment at the workplace for employees and visitors.

Inculcate awareness among all employees, contractors and visitors regarding health, safety and

environment.

Achieving ISO 14001 and OHSAS 18001 standards for our organisation.

Achieving world-wide best practices in health, safety and environmental management and recognition as

leaders in these areas in the Indian textile industry.

External reporting of our health, safety and environmental performance.

IMS (Integrated Management System )POLICY

We, Alok Industries Ltd. are committed towards.

Serving our customer to their satisfaction by effecting reliable supply of product at most competitive

prices and meeting social objectives and other specified requirements through integrated management

system.

Constantly improving product quality, environmental performance, work environment and services by

up-gradation of skill, knowledge and technology through employee education & involvement.

Ensuring a healthy and safe environment in and around our manufacturing plants complying with all

applicable legal and other requirement related to safety, health, environment, Social and quality aspects

by setting and reviewing quality, environment, health and safety objectives toward continual

improvement.

Enhancing corporate social responsibility by making earnest endeavors to prevent environmental

pollution, reduce occupational health hazards, minimize waste and optimize use of natural resources.

IMS include four process:-

1. ISO 9001:2008 :- Quality management system (QMS)

2. ISO 14001:2004 :- Environmental Management System(EMS)

3. OHSAS 18001:2007:- Occupational health & safety assessment

4. SA 8000:2008 :- Social accountability / social compliance

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P.P.C. DEPARTMENT

The functions of the P.P.C Department are detailed and are involved at each and every stage right from the

placement of the order to the dispatch of the final product.

Steps involved are as follows:-

The customer places the order with the Marketing Department, located at the Head Office in Mumbai.

Marketing Department passes it on to the P.P.C Department for checking the feasibility of the

production with the help of Q.A and Design Department.

The fabric swatch is viewed, no. of yarns, EPI, PPI is calculated, checking of loom and reed availability

(according to the fabric quality) is done.

Then the Sort order/Work Order plan is made which specifies the commitment dates of production and

dispatch to the Marketing Department.

If the order is accepted, a copy of sort order plan is also given to the Production Department to assist

them in meeting the required deadlines.

PPC department sends seven copies of this to different departments.

A Work Order consists if the warp count, weft count, reed, EPI, PPI, etc.

The delivery date of the product of regular quality (grey fabric) is 25 days and for dyed fabric is 45 days.

Work Order also consists of the execution date along with the commitment dates which are to be met at all

stages of warping, sizing and weaving.

The P.P.C does both Micro as well as Macro planning, for the efficient functioning of the department and thus

the whole factory.

Day-to-day Planning Yarn Requirement in one month

Priority Loom plan

Execution Dates Dispatch and Completion.

Commitment Dates to Marketing H.O.

P.P.C

Micro

Planning

Macro

Planning

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Normal Width

Identification Table of Alok Industries

To identify the qualities and quantities, a prescribed nomenclature is given by the Head Office.

It is a 5-digit number, where the first digit tells the type followed by the quality no.

The Work Order is made on an Oracle based system, which is a plan including information such as

reed, dents in the reed, epi, ppi, weave, reed space, yarn consumption etc.

Stockport Reed Count is the no. of dents per 2 inches.

A noticeable fact is that after weaving the fabric contracts as weft pulls te warp yarns, thus reed space

is always kept a bit more than the fabric width.

Sort No. Fabric Type

10001 to 19999 Cotton warp and weft

20000 to 29999 Viscose (can be warp or weft)100% or blended

30000 to 39999 Polyester, CVC

40000 to 49999 Organic Cotton

50000 to 59999 Yarn Dyed Fabric (mix up)

60000 to 69999 Silk

70000 to 79999 Yarn dyed (organic cotton)

80000 to 89999 Lenin, cotton, polyester

90000 to 99999 Yarn dyed for higher RKM (as 24 rkm)

WORKFLOW IN P.P.C DEPARTMENT

Swatches of the required finished product are given by the customer, in the form of a fabric swatch or

in a CAD Format.

Sometimes, yardages are made, these are small quantities used for sampling. A yardage can also be

made on a handloom, to check the performance of a odd yarn or a complex weave before weaving for

bulk production.

The order given to the marketing department goes to the Quality Assurance to check the construction

and type of the required finished product.

The next level is the Designing Department, which analyses the shaft, reed and weave and make a draft

plan, which is sent for sampling.

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A sample is made to verify whether the weft and the warp pattern, drafting, peg plan is of the required

type or not.

Once the sample is approved, bulk production is started.

A noticeable reduction is there in the width after the fabric is made out of the warp beam. Thus, some extra

amount of warps is there.

Hence, we concluded

P.P.C is the mouth-piece of Management

Sampling- It is done in 2 forms:-

(a) Desk Loom Development- It is a 6” x 6” prepared sample at the first level of production.

(b) Once a desk loom is approved, Yardages are made which is 35 mts. of the fabric for the required width.

Finally, as per the order of the Marketing Department, a work order is prepared with all the details and

identification numbers, taking into consideration the construction, weave, EPI,PPI, order quantity (in

mts.)

This work order comes to the P.P.C Department, which in turn passes the yarn requirement information

to the Raw Materials Department. They place an order to the Procurement Department, as per the

quantity of dispatch product.

Yarn Dyed- Especially for Yarn Dyed fabric production details are also taken from Designing

Department, which identifies the fabric on the scale of shade and quality.

Loom Plan- It is a program which is sent to the Loom Shed, Preparatory Department for the processes

of warping and sizing and Folding Department, mentioning the dates of completion, delivery and

dispatch. Production is monitored at each stage, by the P.P.C Department. It issues mainly 3 details:-

o Pattern Card- A computerized version of the required weave, to assist visually, the appearance

of the final product.

o Draft Plan- Giving the drawing sequence or lifting of warp yarns in the Heald Frames.

o Order- A proper plan to describe the process flow within the time constraints.

Points to be taken into consideration before Production:-

(a) For grey fabric 10% extra manufacturing is done, whereas for yarn dyed it is 13%. For Jacquard Looms,

situated at Dadra, 10% extra is kept.

For e.g-

SORT NO. Wp Wf EPI PPI WEAVE WIDTH

5001 40 40 132 72 2/1TWILL 63”

Therefore, Total number of ends= 132 X 63= 8316 (required number of ends)

Reed count = Number of dents per 2” = 86

21 | P a g e

Thus, Number of dents in 1” = 86/2 = 43

Ends per dent = 3

And, 43 X 3 = 129

Thus, Reed Space = 8316/129 = 64

Cover Factor- It is the air space between 2 ends and is given by

EPI + PPI

(WpCT)1/2 (WfCT)1/2

VCT is count for warp and weft for EPI and PPI respectively.

The cover factor can be a maximum of Loom cover for the feasibility of fabric production.

Yarn Dyed- The design can be obtained in 3 forms, i.e- CAD, Fabric Cutting, Count Construction (with

information of Warp, Weft, Reed, ppi etc.)

Yarn dying takes place at the Vapi Processing Plant and it is transported 7 days after the placement of

the order.

The next step is to check the feasibility of the design construction.

2 types of warp or double beam can also be used with two different finer or coarser yarns,less count is

taken at the top.

The work flow is same as of normal or wider width, i.e- sampling, sales order, then finally production

program with details of customer, quality, quantity in mts., count & construction, and delivery dates.

Production Program is given to the Raw Materials Department, which decided kg wise consumption in

cones, then warping, szing and rearrangement of cones takes place. It is to be noted that for yarn dyed

beam to beam sizing is done which is unlike grey fabric.

Drawing Department decides Healds as per the sample given.

Once a sample is prepared, it is given to the Folding Department for inspection. After 100% checking

and verification, the loom starts working and does not stop until the whole beam or the production order

is complete.

Finally, it is delivered to the Vapi Plant for processing..

A daily status report of every procedure and process is given to the Marketing Department as well as

the customer.

WIDER WIDTH

For wider width at the selvedge portion yarn density more than at middle so we reduce one end from each dent

in1.2”. But it will reduce reed space so we have to increase reed space.

For example

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REED WIDTH EPI PPI REEDCOUNT

133” 185 132 80/5

No. of ends=133*185=24700

Ends per one inch reed width= 80*5/2=200

Reed space=24700/200=124”

Total selvedge width=1.2’’

No of dents in 1.2” =40*1.2=48

Instead of 5 ends/dent we pass 4 end/dent in 48 dents

No of ends reduced =48

Fabric width reduced=48/200=0.24 inch

We require reed space=124+.24=124.24

23 | P a g e

GREY YARNGREY YARN

RAW MATERIAL

WARPING

SIZING

DRAWING IN

LOOM SHED

INSPECTION

FOLDING

DISPATCH

PROCESSING

YARN DYEDYARN DYED

RAW MATERIAL

REWINDING

DYEING

DRYING

REWINDING

SECTION WARPING

SIZING

DRAWING-IN

LOOM SHED

INSPECTION

FOLDING

DISPATCH

24 | P a g e

RAW MATERIAL DEPARTMENT

OBJECTIVE

The Raw Materials Department is the department from where the work starts in the plant. The main objectives

of raw department are storing ,issuing, reconsilation of raw material intented for manufacturing

SYSTEM AND PROCEDURE

Work takes place in the following systematic order:-

1. The orders are placed in the Marketing Department, at the Head Office stationed at Peninsula Towers,

Lower Parel, Mumbai for Alok Industries. The customer specifies its requirements in the order.

2. A sales order is then prepared giving a systematic description of the requirements by the Marketing

Department, which is then sent to the factory.

3. The Sales Order is received at the Production Planning and Commitment Department (PPC).

4. The PPC Department then makes the production planning chart which includes all the characteristics

of the yarn required.

5. The Production Program is then sent to the Raw Materials Department.

ROLE OF RAW MATERIAL DEPARTMENT

1. It receives the material, which is ordered by production department.

2. It issues the required material to the department.

3. In case of rejection, it stores the rejected material and returns it to the seller end

CAPACITY OF RAW MATERIAL DEPARTMENT

The textile industry is based on raw material capacity, which costs from 70 to 80% of industry cost. Its

capacity is about 1250 tons.

MATERIAL PURCHASE

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1. A raised Indent is prepared, which specifies all the yarn requirements, for eg- quantity of yarn, type of

yarn(puma, organic, carded, combed)

2. The Indent is sent to the Marketing and Purchase Department which then places an order for the

procurement of the yarn.

Alok Industries procures the yarn most from all parts of India and also from Pakistan, China,

and Vietnam.

Vardhman

Auro Spinning

Gini Filaments

R.M Mohite Textiles

Abhishek Industries

Ambica

Arun tex

Ramalinga spinners

Rajasthan spinning mills

STI India

Nahar Industries

Arisht spinning mill

Nitin spinning mill

DESGIN DEPARTMENT

26 | P a g e

The objective of this department is to prepare a pattern for the weaving process to achieve the desired effect

and look on the fabric as per the buyer s specification. The department receives the specifications from the

marketing dept after which sampling is done and samples are sent for approval, approved designs then go

further for production.

The department performs the following works:-

1. Designing of the product

2. Analysis & feasibility of product

3. Preparation of bill of materials required for preparing the product

The various Qualities or types of towels developed are:-

Piece dyed towels(grey towels)

Yarn dyed towels

Yarn dyed and grey velour towels(cut pile)

Yarn dyed and grey partial velour towels(partial cut pile)

Cad software’s used for weave design developments are:-

Textronics design dobby for development of dobby designs

Net graphics texcelle for developing jacquard design

QUALITY ASSURANCE DEPARTMENT

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The function of quality assurance department is to control the manufacturing process against the standard of the

company or as directed by the buyer been conveyed through PPC.

The QA department keeps on updating the PPC and management about the progress of the order right from raw

material department to dispatch.


When the raw material is received to the raw material department they send the sample cones to the QA

department for approval.

Sample Approving Criteria

Order Quantity (in kgs.) No. of Cones sent for QA

0-100 2

100-1000 5

1000-4000 10

More than 4000 15

The cones are randomly selected and inspected

Visual Inspection

The visual inspection of each cone or package is done.

The cones are inspected for:

No tail end

Ribboning- Yarns should not stick to each other, when wound

Soft Cone- If the yarns are not twisted properly the cone formed is slack.

Transport- During transportation, the cones get damaged and cannot be approved.

Cone Weight- If the specified weight is less or more than the actual weight.

INSTRUMENTS:

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1. ELECTRONIC WEIGHING MACHINE

A circular metal circle attached to a handle of 10cm. radius is used to cut standard size samples to check the

GSM (Grams per Square Meter).

The sample is then weighed on the machine, which is highly sensitive. This gives an idea of the weight and

fineness of the fabric.

Range of weight -50gm to20kg

2.WRAP REEL

Company- Texlab

Model No.- 2-2001

A carrier is present, having 5 rows and 6 columns, which carries lea from various cones. The cones (max. 10),

which are to be tested are mounted on bars and the yarns from the cones passes through the guides and gets

wound on a circular frame. Radius of the frame is approx. 21cm. The frame is revolved 80 times, a scale denotes

the no. of revolutions.

80 revolutions leads to the winding of 120 yards of yarn.

If the count of the yarn is finer, then the lea is smaller but if the yarn is coarser in nature, then the lea is bigger.

If there are 15 cones, then from each cone 2 samples are taken

No. of Cones Revolutions Total Revolutions

15 2 30

10 3 30

5 3 15

2 3 6

3. CONDITIONING CHAMBER

This is used for standardizing the physical properties if the yarns which can get affected by the

temperature, pressure and humidity.

The leas are kept in a chamber for minimum 4 hours under the following conditions:-

Room Temperature 27 ± 2° C

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Relative Humidity 65 ± 2%

Air Pressure 250

4. C.S.P. SYSTEMS

This is known as the Count Strength Product. It checks the strength of the lea and in turn of individual yarns.

It has an apparatus with 2 clamps. One at the top(stationary) and the other at the bottom (movable)

The lea is hung from the clamps, then the bottom hook is pulled down, thus applying breaking load.

The bottom hook is made to move a particular distance, which is predefined and then it is observed how many

yarns are broken.

The entire arrangement is controlled by a micro processor in which the standard requirements are fed.

The software used in this is Lab data V2.2

5. SINGLE YARN STRENGTH TESTER

This is to check the strength of a single yarn from a particular cone.

In this, unlike the CSP System, the top clamp is movable and the bottom is kept stationary.

The make of the machine is Statex Tensotate Junior.Gauge length-500mm

6. ELECTRONIC TWIST TESTER

This is an automatic machine and it also has a microprocessor attached to it. It is to check the twist of the yarn.

The tester untwists the yarn and twists again to check in whatever unit chosen, the twist of the yarn.

The parameters which are fed in the tester are:

1. Sample number.

2. Twist direction.

3. Standard tpi (twist per inch).

4. Ply/Filament.

5. Preset count.

6. Length Unit.

The length of the yarn that is fed into the machine is 20’’.

7. YARN BOARD WINDER

It is used to test the yarn evenness. The company to which the machine belongs Autoboard, Paramount

Instrument Pvt Ltd. The yarns are twisted on a black board and the yarns are manually checked.

8. USTER TESTER 5

This apparatus is used for measuring the mass variation of the sliver, roving and yarn. U%, cv%, thin places,

thick places and neps can be mearured by this tester.

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9. USTER TENSOJET

This apparatus is used for measuring the RKM, SYS. Testing speed of this instrument is 100-400 m/min.

Breaking force, elongation% and tenacity can be measured.

10. USTER CLASSIMATE QUANTUM

This apparatus is used for measuring the thick places, thin places and the neps. Testing speed of this

instrument is 400-800 m/min.RJK rewinding machine is used for sample preparation,it has 12 spindles.

After the inspection, it is decided whether the cones sent are of optimum quality or not. As the unloading of the

entire lot is done at the same time, before it is approved, so if the Q.A Department rejects the cone, the

Company intimates the supplier and they return the entire consignment.

Once the yarns have been approved, the GRN (Goods Received Note) is made by the department.

11. ELMATEAR TEAR TESTER

This instrument is used to measure fabric tear strength.The sample is preconditioned for 4 hours .This m/c is

supplied with a suite of 4 pendulum,A:8N,B:16N,C:32N,D:64N.Specimen size is 100x63mm-mm and tear

length is 43mm.

12. FABRIC TENSILE STRENGTH TESTER

This instrument is used to measure the tensile strength of the fabric.Specimen size is taken as 25x10cm-

cm.The specimen must break within 20+/-3 sec

PREPARTORY DEPARTMENT

This is a department where the warp yarns are prepared for weaving department by WARPING and SIZING.

1. Warping

2. Sizing

WARPING

OBJECTIVE

The object of warping is to collect a no of warp ends from a creel and to wind them in a sheet form on the double

flanged warper beam in such a manner that the threads are parallel to each other.

31 | P a g e

Warping is very important for the subsequent processes. Successful sizing and weaving is largely influenced by

the quality of warping. Faulty warping would cause broken ends, bad selvedges etc, which inturn produce the

substandard cloth. So it is very necessary that warping should in a precise manner.

There are two type of warping

1. DIRECT

2. SECTIONAL

DIRECT WARPING

This type of warping is done for grey yarns. In this process the yarns are transferred from cones to direct

beam. This is done as it fulfills the requirements of large number of ends.

It is used for long runs of grey yarns, single colour yarns and simple patterns of coloured yarns. It can be used to

make warpsheets. The total amount of coloured yarns involved is less than 15% of the total.

32 | P a g e

Sort no. is written on beam, packing of beam

After the completion of no. beams,creel ends are cut at the creel

Unloading of full beam

Ends are cut

Machine is stopped after the completion of required length on one beam

Starting of machine

Tying up of ends on beam

(no of ends, count, required length, sort no, pressure, speed)

Setting of information in the panel

Loading of empty beam

Denting

Creeling

Opening of cartons

Raw material

WarpingWarping

33 | P a g e

PLANNING OF PROGRAM

Customer raises his requirement in term of fabric length and width. P.P.C department find out the reed width,

reedspace, no of ends for construction that particular fabric. Then, no of beam are finded out according to creel

capacity of warping machine.

For example

Total no of ends=17820

Creel capacity=1088

No. of beams=17820/1088=16.37

No. of the end left =412

So we take such a combination that every beam contain equal no of ends.

As, 17820/18=990 ends

According, to the length required on the sizing beam we set the length on the warper beam, taking

consideration of waste and 2% CV

80 count — 3000 mts.

60 count— 2500 mts.

30, 40, 50 count — 2000mts.

10, 20 count — 1500mts.

The quantity of cones is received by the preparatory department according to the order placed by the P.P.C.

through raw material department

This order depends on the customer’s demand.

In Alok Industries there are eight BEN-DIRECT warping machine. These machines have LCD screens that give

us information about –

1. Actual length

2. Tangent length

3. Beam width

4. Speed of the beam

5. Time

6. Quantity

The width of the warp beam is 2200 mm. it is fixed. This is also called the distance between the two flanges.

Creel capacity of six BEN-DIRECT is 1088, two having 630 creel capacity. Maximum speed of BEN-DIRECT

is1200 mpm

34 | P a g e

In Alok Ind., we have chain creel having following features:

1. V- Shaped

2. There are two supply package one full (reserve) and other running for each end.

3. Equipped electric warp stop motion.

4. Gate type tensioners are used.

5. There is cutter to cut the ends after creel completion.

6. There is provision of compressed air for cleaning of the creel and warping m/c. headstock.

The cone on the creel supply yarns to the beam while passing through sensor holes that are connected to the

LED start blinking when the yarn breaks.

Then these yarns are passed through expanding combs. One yarn passes through two combs. These combs help

in maintaining the tension between the yarns and also maintain difference between the two yarns.

The speed on the machine is very high.

Warping speed

COUNT SPEED

16, 20, 30, 40, upto 50s 900 mt/min

60, 80s 700 mt/min

The beam density is 550 gm/dm3.

Sn. MAKE YEAR CREEL

CAPACITY

MAX. SPEED

1 Benniger Ben Direct 9/11/2005 1088 1200mt/min








9 Karlmayer BenDirect 680 1200mt/min

10 Karlmayer BenDirect 680 1200mt/min

11 Karlmayer BenDirect 09/05/2011 1224 1100mt/min



HEADSTOCK:-

35 | P a g e

Expanding Comb: To adjust the width of the warp sheet according to the width of the warpers beam between

the flanges. Dents are arranged in groups of 8 in the ascending order of height, shorter one correspond to the

bottom cone as the distance of cone increases from the headstock, the angle of deflection increases to make all

the yarns parallel and to avoid the crossing ends .

There is a guard that covers the functional area of the machine.

It is made up of fiber glass and is used to guard the operator from injuries caused by broken cones, flying fluffs,

etc.

1. Net weight/cone.e.g-2/105 – this means the yarn is doubled 105 yarns-52.5 yarns

The yarn length per cone depends upon count e.g- 5 cones (wt)<>=1.04

Paper cone weight: 0.05gms: fixed

Gross weight- Paper cone weight = actual yarn weight in each cone

= A

A X 1693 = to convert kg in length = B

B X Count = length of yarn in one cone.

DRIVE:-

Beam is driven through the frictional contact with the drum rotating at a constant speed. The length of drum is

such that it will just fit between the flanges of the warper beam.

COUNT DRUM PRESSURE

80s, 60s 250daN/cm2

30s, 40s, 50s 300 to 350 daN/cm2

10s,20s 400 to 450 daN/cm2

SECTIONAL WARPING

36 | P a g e

This type of warping is done for dyed yarns. In this process the yarns are transferred from cones to a drum and

from that to a beam. This is done as it fulfills the requirements of large number of ends.

There is a reed present before the warping cylinder where the adjustment of the section width is done. The shape

of the reed increases or decreases the sectional width.

The LCD screen on the sectional warping machines indicated the following:

1. sort number

2. count

3. length

4. total ends

5. ends/creel

6. shade number

The warping drum or cylinder is mounted on the movable apparatus. It is funnel shaped. It rotates in the

clockwise direction.

It is used for short runs especially for fancy pattern fabrics where the amount of coloured yarn is more than

15% of the total.

Sectional warping is a quick way to warp a loom with a sectional warp beam and is best suited for very long

warps (15 yards or more), any size or style of yarn and 2 inch repeats (most sections on a sectional warp beam

are 2" wide).

PLANNING OF PROGRAM

The designer sends a pattern chart, which contains total no of ends required, colours and the whole pattern.

According to that chart the creeling is done starting from back of left hand side to the other end of the creel.

PROCEDURE

After the creeling all ends are drawn through the lease reed, section reed and then to the drum. According to the

section width and space of one dent, no of ends per dent is decided for the particular section.

No. of dents required =section width \ space of one dent

Ends\dent = total no. of ends in a section \no of dents required

The next layer will be slightly displaced position. The traversing of drum is done for this purpose Traverse of

drum per section = height of section / tan A

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Fig. – PASSAGE OF YARN ON PRASHANT GAMATEX

SECTIONAL WARPING MACHINE

38 | P a g e

Angle A is fixing for the machine.

This is also known as pitch count factor. It should be around 0.65, greater than this will create tension variation

during the winding.

S. no. Make Creel Capacity Max. Speed

1 Bentronic 720 800 mt/min

2 Bentronic 720 800 mt/min

3 Prashant Gamma Tex 576 800 mt/min










39 | P a g e

Warping speed

COUNT SPEED

16s to 40s 500 mt/min

Above 40s 400 mt/min

Robotic sectional warping machine:-

S. no. Make year Creel capacity Speed

1 Prashant Gamma Tex 2011 480 800 mt/min

2 Benniger versomat 2011 480 800 mt/min

FEATURES:

· Separate warping & beaming structure

BEAM

DRUMDRUM

TRAVERSETRAVERSE

DENTING REEDDENTING REED

LEASING REEDLEASING REED

CREELCREEL

PASSAGE OF SECTIONAL WARPINGPASSAGE OF SECTIONAL WARPING

40 | P a g e

· Hydraulic Disc Brakes

· Constant Beaming Tension

· Digital / Graphic On Line Display for desired process data

· Solid steel drum - Dynamically balanced.

· Frequency variable A/C drives

· Hydraulic doffing & donning device

· Auto section advancing

· Constant warping and beaming speed

· Lost end memory & auto stop during beaming

· On Site Programming Facility

· Individually Controlled Tensioner Type model 42

After all the sections of a required length are wound on the drum, beaming is done. In beaming process all the

ends are drawn together onto the warper‘s beam. Beaming speed is kept slow to avoid breakage. Generally it is

80+/-10 mts/min.

Leasing stripes are inserted in between the section to separate the ends.

Machine specification

There are eight machines of this purpose.

Among these five of them are Indian whose manufacturers are Prashant Gamatex two having 960 creel capacity

and three having 672. Two of them is of BenTronic having 720 creel capacity.One Versomat m/c having creel

capacity of 480.

These machines don’t have any glass cover. The width of the warp beam is not fixed.

These creels have ceramic guides. The arrangement of pins on the creel is in the multiple of six in Ben Direct

and five in Gamatex. It takes only 30 sec. for mending.

The minimum width of section that can be made on Versomat is 25.4mm.

USES: Shirting, Bed sheets, Hankerchiefs, etc.

SIZING

This is the process of increasing the quality of warping yarns to withstand the pressure during weaving. This is

done by passing the warp yarns through a solution and then it is dried and heat set.

The main purpose of sizing is to improve strength and abrasion resistance of the warp yarns by causing the fibres to adhere together to make smooth and to lubricate the warp yarns so that there is minimum friction

where they rub together various parts in the weaving process.

Sizing is of two type

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1. Creel to beam

2. Beam to beam

Creel to Beam :

In this type of sizing machine is used for grey type of yarn. In this many beam of grey yarn is put on creel then

sized together after it wind on one beam.

For example :-

If we want to make a beam of total no. of ends=17820

Then procedure will be

Creel capacity=1088

No. of beams=17820/1088=16.37

No. of the end left =412

So we take such a combination that every beam contain equal no of ends.

As, 17820/18=990 ends in one beam

And 18 beam are made by direct warping

And then these 18 beam are held one same creel and sized and wound on same beam by this we get beam of

17820 ends.

Beam to Beam :

In this type of sizing machine is used for dye type of yarn. In this one weaver’s beam made by section warping

sized after it wind on one beam.

MACHINE DETAIL

SL.NO MODEL MAKE YEAR CREEL

1 BENSIZETEC BENINGER 2001 16+1

2 BENSIZETEC BENINGER 2004 24



42 | P a g e





9 PRASHANT GAMATEX GAMATEX 2007 1

10 ROTAL KARL MAYER 2010 1

11 ROTAL KARL MAYER 20

12 SIZEOMATIC KARL MAYER 2011 28+28

13 SIZEOMATIC KARL MAYER 2011 28+28

TECHNICAL DATA

Tension =Warp weight x factor

ZONE FACTOR

Creel Zone 0.5 -0.7

Size Box Stretch Mode (0-(-0.4))

Wet Splitting 0.4 – 0.8

Dry Splitting 1.0 -1.2

Winding 1.7 – 2.0

Beam 1.4 -1.0

Rubber Roller

Upto working width =2400 mm

SQUEEZE ROLLER IMMERSION ROLLER

Outside Diameter 225mm 192mm

Min Outside Diameter 220mm 188mm

Coating Textured coating Rubber coating

Hardness 75°shore 65°shore

Tolerance ±3° ±3°

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From Working width 2800 mm

SQUEEZE ROLLER IMMERSION ROLLER

Outside Diameter 285mm 192mm

Min Outside Diameter 280 mm 188 mm

Coating textured Rubber

Hardness 75°shore 65°shore

Tolerance ±3° ±3°

Squeezing Pressure- 4KN

Size box temperature - 90-92 ° C

Size box level -160mm

DRYING ZONE

No of cylinders =12

The temperature decreases from first to last cylinder continuously

Max permissible operating temp. 163°C

Min permissible operating temp. 5°C

Heating medium saturated vapour

The supply of saturated vapours is cut off before 50 m of warp to be wound on the beam.

Drying cylinder diameter 8 cylinders -180 mm

4 cylinders -800 mm

RF% 8-13%

DRY SPLITTING ZONE

No of lease Beam to Beam -: 7

Grey –: No of beams on the creel - 1

MEASURING AND CONTROL DEVICES FOR DEGREE OF SIZING

If degree of sizing is too high or low, risk of thread breaks is increased.

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Degree of sizing(%) = [Sa(%) * K(%)] / (100%) ; where Sa = Sizing

liquor take up.

It is the ratio of the liquor taken up to the weight of untreated yarn. K =

Concentration.

It is measured by a refractometer.

Factors Affecting Degree of Sizing:

· Concentration

· Viscosity of sizing liquor

· Temperature of sizing liquor

· Speed

· Squeezing pressure

SIZE RECIPE

It depends upon:-

Yarn Type

Count

CSP

Construction Details

EPI

PPI

Weave

In Alok Industries, Alpenol KV and Alpenol JV are used as the main sizing agent.

Chemical Work

Elvanol T-66 Binder

Nippa Soft Softner

PR-500 Binder

CG-28 Binder

Fibrosol-PS 30 Antistatic

Plystran-C Starch

Supersize Starch

45 | P a g e

FULL BEAM

WINDING HEADWINDING HEAD

EXPANDING COMBEXPANDING COMB

LEASE RODSLEASE RODS

DRYING CYLINDERS DRYING CYLINDERS

SQUEEZING ROLLER SQUEEZING ROLLER

IMMERSION ROLLERIMMERSION ROLLER

GUIDE ROLLERSGUIDE ROLLERS

BEAMBEAM

PATH OF WARPPATH OF WARP

46 | P a g e

Drawing

Sized beam can be take on the loom by two process called as :-

Gatting In

Knotting In

Knotting in:- In this process new beam is tied up with old beam on loom by a machine called Knotting

machine.

Gatting In :- In this process new beam is draw through drop pin, heald frame and heald eye and passed by

reed.

It is done by two process:-

1. Mannual Drawing

2. Auto Drawing

Auto Drawing

After sizing sized beam is sent to the drawing in section.

Alok have 11 Staubli Delta 110 auto drawing machine adjustable to any width. Sometimes they are still running

manual drawing in.

For normal 6000-7000 ends can be drawn, which take 1-1.5 hours for grey yarn producing 9 beam per day on

an average.

For wider 20000-25000 ends can be drawn in 5-6 hours producing 4-5 beams /day on average.

And if we not use auto drawing then normal beam of 6000-7000 ends can be drawn, which take 5-6.5 hours for

grey yarn

After that knotting is done, if reed counts, weave, fabric width and total no of ends are same as that of previously

running order, otherwise gaiting is done.

Denting and Drawing – In

All the warp threads have to be threaded through the heald eyelet and its gap in

the reed prior to weaving. The heald is the part of the loom that is used to move

the warp threads up and down. The threads pass through eyelets on the heald.

For a simple weave pattern alternate eyelets are moved up to raise the

corresponding warp threads, and the threads between are moved down. When

the shuttle travels back their positions are reversed.

47 | P a g e

INFRASTRUCTURE: .

STAUBLI DELTA 110: These drawing-in installations are designed for weaving

mills with medium drawing-in requirements. The DELTA 110 also handles drop

wires and is a universal installation. Furthermore, a module is available that is

specially designed for drawing-in course yarns. Drawing-in takes place directly

from the warp beam with 1 warp sheet, or optionally with 2 warp sheets.

DELTA 110 200

Drawing-in speed (ends/min) 100/140* 200

Number of warps in 8h (ca. ) 2-5 4-8

Warp widths (m) 2.3/ 4.0/

6.0

2.2/ 2.8/

4.0

Number of warp sheets 1 (2*) 2 (4*)

Reed density( teeth/ dm) 500 500

Max. number of frames (J/Chealds)

20 28

Max. number of frames (O- 16 20 healds)

Max. rows of dropwires ____ 8

Number of dropwire paths ____ 2

Drawing-in element Hook Rapier

Yarn count range (tex) 3-250 3-330

Sequence of Functions:

Band gripper starts the drawing-in sequence before all modules are ready for drawing-in.

If reed module is not ready, it reports after reed test.

Gripper enters the dent (can be stopped if reed module is not ready, otherwise continues its forward motion.

Heald module reports at heald test. If it is not ready, band gripper is stopped before passing through heald

eye. If it is in ready state, gripper moves on.

Drop wire module reports at drop wire test. If it is not ready, band gripper is stopped before penetrating eye

of the drop wire. If ready, gripper moves on.

Yarn supply module reports at yarn test. If it is not ready, band gripper is stopped before entering yarn take

over. If ready, the gripper continues its motion.

After yarn take over, band gripper which grips the yarn withdraws.

Band gripper withdraws past the drop wire and heald positions.

Drop wire and heald distribution systems move on.

Reed transport ensures the reed position.

Yarn ejectors are actuated in position ‘e’ and ‘f’ (in the diagram).

One drawn-in cycle is over.

WEAVING DEPARTMENT

The weaving is the final process of production of fabric. It is interlacement of warp and weft.

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There are three types of motion in weaving

Primary Motion Secondary Motion Auxiallary Motion

Shedding Let Off Stop-Motion

Picking Take Up Temple

Beating Brake


The Unit gets the order form the P.P.C Department, as the order of the client.

It also gives the delivery date promised to the client, and asks the Unit to perform accordingly.

P.P.C gives the plan of the machines which are to be used for making that particular order, so that the

order is completed in time.

The Unit then intimates the Raw Material Department about the order and asks for the Raw Materials

in the form of Weft Cones.

It also asks the Warping/ Sizing Department to send the required quality of the Warp Beams for the

order.

Then 12-15 inches of fabric is made for checking and is sent for quality assurance of every beam. If it’s

yarn dyed or shirting fabric then it is sent to the design department for approval.

If any problem arises then the rectification is done, 50m of cloth made and then again sent for

evaluation. This is called the first piece.

After the approval is given then the looms are started and production starts.

The design of the weave and all the other relevant details are fed into the computer system of the loom.

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Passage of warp sheet through the loom:

1. BEAM FLANGE 12. GUIDE ROLLER

2. BEAM 13. CLOTH BEAM

3. BACK REST

4. GUIDE ROLLER

5. DROP PINS

6. WARP SHED

7. HEALD FRAME

8. RAPIER/PROJECTILE/AIR JET

9. FELL OF CLOTH

10. FRONT REST

11. EMERY ROLLER

9

10 7 4

1

11

13

12

8

6

5

3

2

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LOOM DETAILS

Alok Industries weaving division is currently running with 1862 looms.The weaving division is divided in 14

units

Weaving Department Of Alok Industries Ltd.:

There are total 14 weaving units in Alok Industries.

Unit Number Product

UNIT TYPE OF FABRIC PRODUCING

1 Wider Width fabric

2 Wider Width fabric

3 Fine Count Normal Width, Jaquard with wider width

4 Yarn Dyed (Shirting & Suiting Fabric)

5 Wider Width

6 Normal Width Fabric

7 Wider Width Fabric

8 Yarn Dyed (Shirting & Suiting Fabric)

9A Wider Width Fabric

9B Normal Width Fabric

9C Normal Width Fabric

9D Yarn Dyed Fabric Normal Width Fabric

9E Normal Width Fabric

9F Wider Width Fabric

UNIT 1

Serial Loom type No of Looms

1 Picanol omniplus (340 cm) cam 8 shaft 2 colour, airjet 56

2 Picanol omniplus (340 cm) cam 10 shafts 2 colour,airjet 24

UNIT 2


1 Picanol omni (340 cm) cam 8 shaft 2colour, airjet 56

2 Picanol omni (340 cm) cam 10 shafts 2colour, airjet 24

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UNIT 3


1 Airjet toyoda (190cm)cam 8 shafts 2 colour 52

2 Rapier jacquard (360cm) twin 8 colour (SULZER) 16

3 Rapier jacquard (360cm) 8 colour (picanol optimax) 12

UNIT 4


1 Picanol omni (190 cm) dobby 6 colour, airjet 32

2 Picanol rapier (190 cm) 40

3 Sulzer rapier (220 cm) dobby 8 colour 30

UNIT 5


1 Picanol omni (340 cm) cam 8 shaft 2 colour, airjet 60

2 Picanol omni (340 cm) cam 2 colour twin,airjet 12

3 Picanol omni (340 cm) cam 2 colour 10 shaft,airjet 24

4 Picanol omni (340 cm) dobby 2 colour,airjet 48

UNIT 6



2 Airjet toyoda (190cm)dobby 2 colour 16

3 Airjet toyoda (190cm)dobby 4 colour 10

4 Picanol omni (190 cm)cam 2 colour, airjet 152



UNIT 7



2 Picanol (340 cm) 2 colour dobby 16 shaft 52

3 Picanol (340 cm) cam 8 & 10 shafts 100

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UNIT 8

Serial Loom type No of looms

1 Vamatex k-88 rapier (190 cm) 8 colour dobby 76

2 Airjet toyoda (190 cm) cam 2 colour 12

UNIT 9A

Serial Loom type No. of looms

1 Picanol wider airjet 80

2 Picanol optimax 69


4 Airjet toyoda (340 cm)dobby 4 colour+TSUDOCOMA DOBBY 12

180

UNIT 9B&C


1 Toyota 190 batching motion cam 4 colour 84

2 Toyota 710&610(190cm) Cam & Dobby 4 colour 110

194

UNIT 9D


1 Picanol Omni Rapier (190cm) dobby 6 colour 110

UNIT 9E


1 Picanol omni plus 800 airjet (190cm) cam 6 colour 110

UNIT 9F


1 Toyota 710 cam 8 shaft wider width 200

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SAMPLING


1 Picanol omni plus airjet (190cm) 4

2 Picanol Omni Rapier (190cm) dobby 6 colour 8

12


Dadra unit Sulzer projeticle (190cm) 96

Working

After sizing sized beam is sent to the drawing in section. We have 11 Staubli Delta 110 auto drawing machine

adjustable to any width. Unit 4 and 8 are still running manual drawing in

For normal 6000-7000 ends can be drawn, which take 1-1.5 hours for grey yarn producing 9 beam per day on

an average.

For wider 20000-25000 ends can be drawn in 5-6 hours producing 4-5 beams /day on average.

After that knotting is done, if reed counts, weave, fabric width and total no of ends are same as that of previously

running order, otherwise gaiting is done.

Weaving It is a method of fabric production in which two distinct sets of yarns or threads are interlaced at right angles to

form a fabric or cloth. The other methods are knitting, lace making and felting. The longitudinal threads are

called the warp and the lateral threads are the weft or filling. The methods in which these threads are inter-

woven affects the characteristics of the cloth.

Cloth is usually woven on a loom, a device that holds the warp threads in place while filling threads are woven

through them. Weft is an old English word meaning "that which is woven". A fabric band which meets this

definition of cloth (warp threads with a weft thread winding between) can also be made using other methods,

including tablet weaving, back-strap, or other techniques without looms.

The way the warp and filling threads interlace with each other is called the weave. The majority of woven

products are created with one of three basic weaves: plain weave, satin weave, or twill. Woven cloth can be

plain (in one colour or a simple pattern), or can be woven in decorative or artistic designs.

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PROCESS AND TERMINOLOGY:

In general, weaving involves using a loom to interlace of two sets of threads at

right angles to each other: the warp and the weft (older woof). One warp

thread is called and an end and one weft thread is a pick, the warp threads are

held taut and in parallel order, typically in a loom of which there are many

different types. Weaving can be summarised as a repetition of these three

actions:

Primary Motions

Secondary Motions

Auxiliary Motions

Primary Motions:

1. Shedding: Where the ends are separated by raising or lowering heald frames

(heddles) to form a clear space where the pick can pass

2. Picking: Where the weft or pick is propelled across the loom by an air-jet, a

rapier or a shuttle

3. Beating-up or battening: Where the weft is pushed up against the fell of the

cloth by the reed.

Secondary Motions:

1. Let off Motion: where the warp is let off the warp beam at a regulated speed

to make the filling even and of the required design

2. Take up Motion: Takes up the woven fabric in a regulated manner so that

the density of filling is maintained

Auxiliary Motion: The stop motions: to stop the loom in the event of a Thread break. The two

main stop motions are the

Warp stop motion

Weft stop motion

Others are:

Temple

Leno Stop

Catch Cord Stop

Waste Cutter

The principal parts of a loom are: The frame

The warp-beam or weavers beam

The cloth-roll

The heddles and their mounting,

The reed.

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The warp-beam is a wooden or metal cylinder back of the loom on which the warp is wound. The threads of the

warp extend in parallel order from the warpbeamto the front of the loom, and are attached to the cloth-roll. Each

thread or group of threads of the warp passes through an opening (eye) of a heddle.

The warp threads are separated by the heddles into two or more groups, each controlled and automatically drawn

up and down by the motion of the heddles. In the case of small patterns the movement of the heddles is controlled

by “cams” which move up the heddles by means of a frame called a harness; in larger patterns the heddles are

controlled by a dobby mechanism, where the healds are raised according to pegs inserted into a revolving drum.

Where a complex design is required, the healds are raised by harness cords attached to a Jacquard machine.

Every time the harness (the heddles) moves up or down, an opening (shed) is made between the threads of warp,

through which the pick is inserted.

The rapier-type weaving machines do not have shuttles, they propel the weft by means of small grippers or

rapiers that pick up the filling thread and carry it halfway across the loom where another rapier picks it up and

pulls it the rest of the way. Some carry the filling yarns across the loom at rates in excess of 2,000 meters per

minute. Manufacturers such as Picanol have reduced the mechanical adjustments to a minimum, and control all

the functions through a computer with a graphical user interface. Other types use compressed air to insert the

pick, and others small projectiles. They are all fast, versatile and quiet.

The handloom weaver sizes his warp in starch mixture for smoother running.He warps his loom (loomed or

dressed) by passing the warp threads through heddles on two or more harnesses. The power weaver’s loom is

warped by separate workers. In operation the warp threads are moved up or down by the harnesses creating a

space called the shed through which the pick will pass.

The harnesses can be controlled by cams, dobbies or a Jacquard head.

The raising and lowering sequence of warp threads in various sequences gives

rise to many possible weave structures:

Plain weave : plain, and hopsacks, poplin, taffeta, poult and grosgrain.

Twill weave : these are described by weft float followed by warp float, arranged to give

diagonal pattern. 2/1 twill, 3/3 twill, 1/2 twill. These are softer fabrics than plain weaves

Satin weave : satins and sateens

Complex computer-generated interlacing.

Pile fabrics : such as velvets and velveteen

Both warp and weft can be visible in the final product. By spacing the warp

more closely, it can completely cover the weft that binds it, giving a warp

faced textile such as rib weave.

Conversely, if the warp is spread out, the weft can slide down and completely

cover the warp, giving a weft faced textile, such as a tapestry or a Kilim rug.

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·

WEAVING- FABRIC MANUFACTURING PROCESS

WEAVING- FABRIC MANUFACTURING PROCESS

WindingWinding

Warping or beaming

·

Warping or beaming

·

SizingSizing

Drawing in, LoomingDrawing in, Looming

Pirning (Processing the weft)Pirning (Processing the weft)

WeavingWeaving

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Measurements:

Ends and Picks:

Picks refer to the weft, ends refer to the warp. The coarseness of the cloth can be expressed as the number of

picks and ends per quarter inch square, or per inch square. An end is always written first. For example: Heavy

domestics are made from coarse yarns, such as 10's to 14's

warp and weft, and about 48 ends and 52 picks.

AIRJET WEAVING

On Airjet loom, the weft is inserted with the help of compressed air having pressure around 2.5-3 kg/ cm2 in

normal width and 3.5-4 kg/cm2 in wider width. The idea behind adopting this technology of weft insertion is to

obtain large production with minimum defects which is not possible with other technologies. Although the main

expense in Airjet is cost of compressed air which is 50 paise/CFM

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Fig:- Flow of weft yarn through nozzle at picking

59 | P a g e

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TOYOTA WEAVING MACHINE

Speed Control S C Inverter

It controls the machine speed in normal operation as well as controlling the forward and reverse slow inching

and slow operation during gaiting.

Single Beam Let Off

Detects the total warp tension applied to the tension roller with load cell. The rotation of AC servo motor is

transmitted via reduction gear to the warp beam gear.

For spun yarn – positive easing motion

For filament yarn – negative easing motion (by buffer spring)

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Weft insertion passage :

Weft AccumulatorWeft Accumulator

Winding SensorWinding Sensor

Electromagnetic PinElectromagnetic Pin

Measuring Bands with ReflectorsMeasuring Bands with Reflectors

CoverCover

MotorMotor

Inlet PieceInlet Piece

Winding ArmWinding Arm

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Yarn Type Tension

Spun Yarn 30 to 500 Kgf (Standard Density)

10 to 500 Kgf (Low density)

Filament Yarn 30 to 320 Kgf

Shed Closing Timing Plain Twill

1X2 3X4

310° 290° 290°

Easing Amount Scale Mark 6 Scale Mark 1

Easing Timing 300° 300°

Specification of Take Up

There is knob arrangement by which rotating in anticlockwise or clockwise direction, we may adjust the tension

in the cloth. It provides the flexibility for weaving any type of fabric including actual take-up tension and crease

for each type of fabric.

Loom Shed Conditions

Temperature 25 – 30°C

Relative Humidity 75 – 80 %

Fig:-Various nozzles in air jet weaving machine

1.Sub nozzles 2. Main nozzle 3.Relay nozzle

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Passage of Fabric in the Take Up of Toyota:

FOR HIGH DENSITY FABRIC

FOR HIGH DENSITY FABRIC

Expansion Bar

Surface Roller

Upper Press Roller

Lower Press Roller

Cloth Guide

Cloth Roller

FOR LOW DENSITY:FOR LOW DENSITY:

Expansion Bar

Upper Press Roller

Surface Roller

Lower Press Roller

Cloth Guide

Cloth Roller

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Loom Cycle

Beating 0°

Shed Open 60°

Picking Start 80°

Main Nozzle Start 90°

Pick Arrival 240°

Shed Closing 265°

Shed Crossing 310°

Typical Jet End Timing of the Main Nozzle

Spun Yarn Filament Yarn

M/c Speed RPM Less than 800 800 or Higher Less than 800 800 or Higher

Jet End Timing 170° 160° 180° 190°

The weft arrival timing depends upon the air pressure of main nozzle.

The typical weft arrival timing is 230° - 240°.

The weft arrival timing should be with 250° at the latest timing.

If the weft arrival timing is earlier, then the back tension will become more, resulting in the curled weft end.

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PICANOL WEAVING MACHINE

Picanol introduces the OMNIJET airjet weaving machine. The OMNIJET has been specifically designed to

focus on adding value. The machine is based on Picanol’s OMNIPLUS 800 technology, with full electronic

monitoring and control, Sumo main motor and microprocessor-controlled filling insertion. The OMNIJET

machine is exceptionally user-friendly and enables the weaver to produce high-quality fabrics at high speeds

while keeping the weaving cost low.

The OMNIJET meets the investors’ objective of maximizing their return on investment. The machine helps

weaving mills win in the market by offering high-quality fabrics at the lowest possible cost.

The main features of the OMNIJET are:

o Optimized insertion preparation for two or four colors or yarn types

o Accurate, user-friendly setting of all main machine functions using the LCD display and push buttons

o Reed width of 150, 190 or 230 cm (59”, 74.8” or 90.5”)

o High-performance filling insertion for weaving more with less air

o Low-built, ergonomic construction

o Electronic Take-Up and Electronic Let-Off

o Sumo main motor with direct machine drive, for highest speeds at lowest power consumptions

o Fast warp gaiting and cloth doffing, no tools required

o Rotary selvedge units

o Easing motion by spring.

Sumo main motor

Picanol introduced the Sumo main motor in 1999 on its Gamma rapier machine. It drives the weaving

machine directly, without clutch or brake. The Sumo motor soon proved to have the highest performance of any

weaving machine drive train on the market and its success led Picanol to use it as the standard motor on all its

weaving machines. Machine speed is set and controlled electronically, which makes it easy to obtain the highest

industrial speed in function of the quality of the yarn, the number of frames, and the fabric construction.

A high-performance prewinder

The OMNIJET machine is equipped with the OMNIJET WD (Wobbling Disc) prewinder, which is

uniquely designed for airjet weaving and has a wide application range. The major parameters are automatically

set and the piezo bobbin break sensor prevents fabric defects and offers direct start-up possibilities at bobbin

run out. The prewinder is simple to handle and maintain, and can easily be threaded through a pneumatic

system.

State-of-art nozzles

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The fixed and movable main nozzles have a high traction force, resulting in fast insertion rates with

low air consumption. They can be set individually in flow or blow duration. Threading up is very easy.

A stretching nozzle at the right-hand side can keep the filling tip fully extended until the closing shed, thus

preventing the formation of loops, catches it.

Optimized sley movement

The sley movement has been optimized for maximum insertion time, thus reducing the number of weft

stops.

Digitally controlled valves and cutter

The electromagnetic valves ensure perfect control of the airflow in the shed. The opening and closing

times are monitored by the OMNIJET microprocessor. The microprocessor also controls the filling cutter and

makes it possible to set the cutting times separately for each filling channel – a great advantage over mechanical

systems.

Optical filling detector

The optical filling detector, mounted in front of the reed, stops the machine whenever the filling fails

to reach the right-hand side of the machine. A second detector may be used to check whether the pick is broken

in the shed or blown apart.

Autospeed Thanks to the integration of the electronic insertion controls with the SUMO-drive, OMNIJET is the

only machine in its class featuring Autospeed. This enables the machine speed to be automatically maximized

to the conditions of the filling yarn resulting in an overall production increase.

An ergonomic machine

The slight slope of the OMNIJET machine guarantees easy access for the operator. The push buttons

are always within easy reach and provide control of all the important machine functions. Access to the filling

area is easy, as well as the access to adjust shed opening and harness height.

All the advantages of digitization

The electronic OMNIJET terminal monitors and controls all the main machine functions. Its big LCD

screen enables the operator to set the weaving parameters in a very user-friendly way.

67 | P a g e

The settings are accurate and the result of slight adjustments can be checked immediately in the fabric.

When a stop occurs, the LCD screen advises the operator which action to take.

The system can display diagnostic data and stop causes, so avoiding search time for stop detection. It

also displays all the main data in shifts, giving the opportunity to maximize efficiency.

Speed changes made easy

The Sumo motor has a wide speed range, which is very useful for starting up new styles. On the

OMNIJET, the foreman sets the machine speed on the keyboard even while the machine is running. This in

contrast to conventional drive systems, which always involve changing pulleys and belts, or require the use of

an intermediate frequency converter in order to change speed.

Automatic recalculation of insertion parameters

When the speed of the main motor changes, the microprocessor automatically recalculates the

electronic insertion parameters – another example of how OMNIJET makes life easier for the machine operator.

The parameters can easily be viewed on the microprocessor display.

Save and transfer settings in no time

All electronic settings can be easily reproduced or transferred from other OMNIJET machines, either

by means of electronic memory cards or through a network connection: patterns, warp tension, pick density etc..

Efficient stop motions

The OMNIJET machine has an electric warp stop motion with up to 6 bars with a 30 mm (1.2”) pitch.

A dropper location lever helps the operator to locate the warp break quickly.

The filling stop motion consists of an optical filling detector mounted in front of the reed (no cutting of

the reed).

Central lubrication

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The Electronic Take-Up (ETU), the Electronic Let-Off (ELO) and the sley are fed with oil under

pressure from a central forced lubrication system controlled by the microprocessor. A microfine oil filter

removes all impurities and extends the lifetime of the parts and the oil.

Robust mechanics

The OMNIJET machine is built around two cast iron side frames connected by very sturdy cross-

members. This rigid structure and the perfect balancing of the mechanical parts eliminate all vibration, enabling

the machine to produce high-quality fabrics at high industrial speeds continuously. The crank-driven sley motion

with long stroke, the extra reinforced central 4-bar-linkage drive and the balanced sley guarantee stable beat-up,

thus optimizing cloth quality.

Yarn-friendly insertion

The OMNIJET WD prewinder, the main nozzles with cylindrical inserts, the optimized sley movement,

the electro-magnetic valves, the electrical filling cutter and waste cutter – they all contribute to the high fabric

quality that can easily be obtained with the OMNIJET machine.

Sumo increases the fabric quality

The speed of the Sumo motor is electronically controlled and set, which makes it much easier to adapt

the machine speed for optimizing the fabric quality. Additionally, the Sumo motor has a very powerful, stable,

and controllable start torque – a guarantee for the best fabric quality. Starting marks can be avoided because the

stop and start parameters are under complete control.

Electronic Let-Off (ELO) and Take-Up (ETU)

Electronic Let-Off and Electronic Take-Up motions are standard on OMNIJET, another feature

contributing to high fabric quality. They ensure a balanced warp tension during weaving, which helps minimize

warp and weft stops.

An independent servomotor drives the Electronic Let-Off motion. Tension control is carried out by

means of an electronic sensor. The system operates very accurately from full to empty beam, an essential

requirement for continuous quality.

Also an independent servomotor drives the Electronic Take-Up motion. Pick densities can be set from

6 to 72 picks per cm (15 to 183 picks per inch). The required pick density is electronically set so that no pick

wheels are required. The accuracy of the settings makes it easy to adjust the pick density of the fabric for

69 | P a g e

optimum fabric weight and minimum yarn consumption. The settings are also easy to reproduce on other

machines.

Both let-off and take-up have a continuous control system (not on/off) to fully assure the cloth

requirements. The electronic link between let-off and take-up is an additional tool for the weaver to manage

stop/start fabric marks.

RAPIER WEAVING

Virtually no limits in creativity are set with the rapier machine. The perfect concept for economical production

of high quality fabrics, for instance, delicate, fine woollen or cotton fabrics and special industrial fabrics.

Rapiers:

Fig:- Left hand Rapier

Fig:- Right hands Rapier

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Fig:- Weft insertion by Rapier

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PICANOL GAMMAX

In developing the GamMax rapier machine, Picanol has taken the requirements of the market as

its starting point. These are

High productivity thanks to high machine speeds and low downtimes the ability to weave

a wide variety of textiles.

Flexibility in switching from one article to another

Low weaving cost.

All this and more has been achieved on the GamMax machine. Various technological

innovations on the Gamma machine - the successful predecessor of GamMax - have been further

refined, and new technologies and options have been added.

Digital weaving

GamMax enables the weaver to benefit fully from the advantages of digitisation. Most of

the machine functions are digitally controlled and the number of mechanical settings has never

been fewer. In addition to a reduced changeover time, this means that all machine settings can be

digitally stored and transferred, and that a central production computer can control the entire

weaveroom.

Internet-enabled If equipped with the interactive display, GamMax is also Internet-enabled. This opens up a

whole series of new possibilities for service, monitoring and organisation of production.

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SULZER TEXTILE G6300

Weft Insertion Passage

Weft Insertion PassageWeft Insertion Passage

ConeCone

GuideGuide

TensionerTensioner

Weft AccumulatorWeft Accumulator

Weft SensorWeft Sensor

Weft SelectorWeft Selector

Weft CutterWeft Cutter

GripperGripper

NipperNipper

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UTILITYAND MAINTAINENCE DEPARTMENT

OBJECTIVES:-

To maintain the smooth working of humidification plant

To maintain air pressure in loom shed

To maintain electricity power

HUMIDIFICATION PLANT

The main objective of humidification plants to maintain loom shed humidity and humidity at

loom

R.H=65±2.5% (standard humidity at loom shed)

R.H=80±2.5% (standard humidity over the loom)

By maintaining a level of 65-75% relative humidity (%rH) in textile manufacturing facilities

static build-up can be reduced,regain improved, yarn breakage minimized and dust, fly and lint

suppressed. This will dramatically improve quality andmaintain consistent product weight thus

maximising profits.

Textile humidification will:

Improve regain

Maintain yarn strength

Reduce static build-up

Maintain product weight

Reduce fly and micro-dust

Provide free cooling

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The total number of humidification plant in weaving department =27.And after every 2 hours

R.H is checked and noted for further reference.

After every month the whole humidification is cleaned by in charge workers & step by step

cleaning is done .

ELECTRICAL AND AIR CONSUMPTION

The total incoming supply is 66kv which is stepped down to 11kv and again stepped down to 440

volts and used in motors.

The total consumption of weaving 500000 units per day which

includes(loom+compressor+humidification plant +all offices+other departments come under

banner of weaving).

Compressor motor capacity it’s unit is cubic feets/minute or CFM .

PHASE I- 9200*4CFM+4500CFM+3000CFM

PHASE II-9200*4CFM+4500CFM+12300CF

Total developed pressure =6.2bar.where as Air pressure on machine =6.1bar

Per machine consumption

Normal width=35CFM

Wider width=50CFM

Cost of electricity is Rs 4 per unit.

Therefore 500000*4=Rs 2000000 per day or Rs 60000000 per month.

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FOLDING & INSPECTION DEPARTMENT

The folding department is made to check the fabric once weaving is completed. It focuses on finding out faults

in fabrics and therefore grading the fabric according to its quality.

The main aim of folding department is to find out whether the fault in the fabric is due to a fault in the machine

and feedback is sent to the production department at concern stage.

Information on a cloth beam that is received

(a) Loom number.

(b) Sort number.

(c) Doffing number.

(d) Doffing shift.

(e) Pair number.

First of all this information is cross check against information of previous records then inspection is carried out

based on four point American systems.

FOUR POINT AMERICAN SYSTEM OF INSPECTION

Weft Wise

(a) 0 – 3 inches - one point is given.

(b) 3 - 6 inches - two points are given.

(c) 6 - 9 inches - three points are given.

(d) More than nine inches – four points are given.

Warp Wise

(a) 1/25th of length - four points are given.

Partial Defects

(a) =<5mm- two points are given.

All partial defect more than 5 mm should be cut .

No piece is allowed 4 points defect at beginning 3 mts and ending 3 mts.

Gradation

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A grade- A grade is given when the fabric is given maximum 15 points per 100 sq.mt

Piece length for local or domestic use should be 20mts or above.

Piece length for export should be more than or equal to forty meters.

B grade- if the fabric is given points between 15-22 then it is called a B grade fabric.

The piece length for a B grade fabric will be 20 mts and above

B grade fabric cannot be exported.

C grade – if the fabric is given points between 22-32 and it is graded as a C grade fabric.

D grade – this depends on the nature of length i.e. these grades are given to those fabric pieces that

have to be cut due to some fault in the fabric.

If the piece is of length less than 10 meters then it is given a D grade

For wider this length is 1-5 mts

E grade –this also depends on the length of the piece. A piece is given an E grade if the piece length is

between 10 to 20 meters. For wider this range is 5-20 mts these pieces can have partial defects also.

F grade - F grade is given to fabric pieces with continued defects i.e the fabric is not cut even if it has

a defect. The piece length for a F grade fabric will be more than 20 meters.

G grade – these are fabrics that are given points 32 -47.

Types of Defects

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Dyeing Spinning Weaving Partial

Damages Damages Damages Defects

Neps, Patta, Shade

Variation, Uneven

Dyeing, Streaks

Coarse pick, Dirty End,

Crockled Yarn, Double

weft, Oily Weft Knots,

Slub, Three Ply, Coarse

End, High twisted yarn,

Count variation

Broken End, Broken

Pick, Double End,

Double Pick, Oily

Stain, Missing End,

Pulled Warp, Reed

Cut, Floating, Wrong

End Snarling, Temple

Marks, Weft

Distortion

Cracks, Holes,

Multiple Breaks,

Torn Fabric, Tear

Drop, Stitches, Float,

Rust stain, sizing m/c

stops

MACHINES

The folding department at Alok Industries has 35 checking machines, out of these 20 are for normal width and

15 are of wider width.

Normal width – one normal width machine can check 2800- 3000 meters in 8 hours.

Wider width – One wider width machine can check 2000 – 2200 meters in 8 hours.

After inspection and folding the fabric is packed in roll, bale or pellet form as per customer requirement

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CONCLUSION

By visiting the whole premises we saw that The company is well clean and green. along with it has well built

canteen which provides a healthy food to its worker and staff. Also it provides a well training centre for

trainees which includes internet facility too.

FINDING & SUGGETION

Improper cleaning of machine – Blower are required for every loom.

Not enough instrument in Q. A. department – should arrange required instrument for fibre testing .

Convenience and accommodation problem – should ensure proper accommodation and convenience

for employees as required.

It must have the Research and Development Department.

.

Bibliography:

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Weaving Machine Mechanism and Management – Prof. M. K. Talukdar, Prof. P. K. Sriramulu, Prof. D. B. Ajgaonkar

Weaving Mechanism – N. N. Banerjee www.aloktextile.com www.google.com www.sulzer.com The Indian Textile Journal

Asian Textile Journal

And the wikipedia

Alok Final Internship Report

Documents

Transcript of Alok Final Internship Report