ALL PHOTOS COURTESY OF MARKET IPANEMA of...
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Transcript of ALL PHOTOS COURTESY OF MARKET IPANEMA of...
July 8–14, 2016
D6 @EpochTaste
www.EpochTaste.com
MARKET IPANEMA
By Crystal Shi | Epoch Times Staff
NEW YORK—The streets of Nolita are awash in hip cafes and trendy eater-ies, keeping up to speed with the ever-
changing dining scene.But sometimes, simple is best.At Market Ipanema, one of the latest additions
to the neighborhood, owner Beatriz Lobato Grabowsky and executive chef Caroline Borges de Figueiredo are serving up just that.
“Nothing fancy, but homey food,” Lobato Grabowsky said. “I wanted to do something that would be like an everyday meal for people. Good ingredients, healthy, simple, and when you put them together, they taste good.”
Market Ipanema centers on a “do good” phi-losophy—for the body, the environment, and the community. The Nolita restaurant actu-ally had its beginnings in Brazil, where Lobato Grabowsky grew up.
She worked in finance but was always drawn to the culinary world. “My dream was always to open up something with food,” she said. Despite having no formal culinary background, she decided to take the leap and open her own res-taurant in Ipanema, in southern Rio de Janeiro.
The restaurant ended up experiencing enor-mous success, winning Best Light Food Res-taurant and Best Quick Service Restaurant awards from Rio’s prestigious O Globo news-paper and Veja Rio magazine, respectively. It was closed, however, to make way for a com-mercial building.
Lobato Grabowsky opened a smaller grab-and-go cafe in Rio before moving to New York with her family. She studied at The Interna-tional Culinary Center for a year. When her family decided to stay for the long run, she decided to bring Ipanema to New York City.
Market Ipanema, a fast-casual place with both a sit-down menu and grab-and-go options, upholds the same philosophy as its Rio pre-decessors.
Everything on the menu is made in-house—from the bread to the ricotta that tops it—using natural, unprocessed, and organic ingredi-ents. These ingredients are featured in the restaurant’s variety of healthy offerings, from smoothies and tartines to fresh salads and hearty grain bowls.
The Beetroot Tartare ($9) is one of the own-er’s personal favorites. A layer of finely chopped beets sits atop a housemade sunflower cream base, and a sprinkle of sunflower seeds com-pletes the virtuous dish. The result is an intrigu-ing combination of wholesome flavors and fun textures: earthy sweetness from the beets, nutty richness from the cream, and a light crunch from the seeds.
Much of the menu also reflects the restau-rant’s Brazilian roots.
Beans, a major component of a typical Brazil-ian diet, feature in several dishes. They star, for example, in the bright and citrusy Buckwheat and Brown Rice salad ($9), with fava beans, tomatillo, and lime and parsley dressing, and the clean and refreshing Chickpea & Organic Chicken salad ($12), with caramelized onion, arugula pesto, and chives.
Market Ipanema’s version of the popular acai bowl ($9.50), long celebrated and enjoyed in Brazil for its energizing and delicious qualities, is made with the addition of cassava and guar-ana, an Amazonian berry always mixed with acai in Brazil, according to Lobato Grabowsky.
For a taste of true Brazilian street food, Lobato Grabowsky offers a selection of signa-ture tapioca crepes, made from cassava, with both sweet and savory fillings ($5–7). The crepes are delightfully light and crisp, with just a touch of sweetness, and beautifully com-plement their warm fillings, from pleasantly chunky cashew cream with avocado to sweet and tropical banana jam with toasted coconut. The tapioca flour is naturally hydrated with beet and spinach juices, giving the crepes an eye-catching pop of color.
Finally, to round out the meal, there’s the rich and fudgy gluten-free Chocolate Brownie ($3.80), a date-sweetened mira-cle simply bursting with chocolate flavor. Or try the smooth and dreamy Banana & Cacao Cream ($4), a three-ingredient wonder that beautifully showcases the pure flavors of each component—an almost unbelievably simple concoction.
This simplicity is exactly the restaurant’s strength. In the city’s hectic and often extrav-agant food scene, Market Ipanema offers a welcome reprieve—an oasis of healthy, happy, homemade eats.
Brings a Taste of Rio to Nolita
Market Ipanema66 Kenmare St. (between Mulberry & Mott streets)646-329-6144marketipanema.com
HoursMonday–Friday 8 a.m.–8 p.m.
Saturday 10 a.m.–5 p.m.
Environmentally MindedThe restaurant exclusively uses compostable serving dishes, which fully disintegrate in a matter of months. Lobato Grabowsky went to great lengths to find a waste management company that would take compostables and actually dispose of them appropriately. She was surprised to find how many were unwilling or untruthful. Her extensive research, which eventually led her to Bronx-based Avid Waste Systems, testifies to her genuine dedication and care.
Fresh Green Juice with kale, apple,
cucumber, celery, and ginger.
Acai Bowl, served topped with fresh fruits and homemade granola.
A natural red: Beet juice-hydrated Tapioca Crepe with avocado, tomato, and cashew cream filling.
Owner Beatriz Lobato Grabowsky.
Organic Quinoa Bowl, full of seasonal roast vege-tables and herbs, and finished with a poached egg.
ALL PHOTOS COURTESY OF MARKET IPANEMA
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