IN THE STEPS OF CEZANNE

Aix-en-Provence GB

2018

| 32 |

Paul Cezanne was passionately attached to Aix and

his Provence, and summed his love up in a single

sentence when he was away: ”When you’re born

there, it’s hopeless, nothing else is good enough”.

It was while walking in the Aix countryside as a teena-

ger with Émile Zola that he realised he was an artist.

The particular light of Provence guided him on his

creative path to the threshold of abstraction. And it

is in Aix-en-Provence and the surrounding area that

you can share Cezanne's experience intensely today,

as you visit the streets, places and landscapes that

marked the life, the outlook and the work of the father

of modern painting… ”the father of us all!” Picasso said.

IN CEZANNE'S COUNTRY(1839 - 1906)

| 32 |

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IN THE HEARTOF AIX-EN-PROVENCEThe town is home to several precious historical sites which

embody the mysteries surrounding Cezanne. For today’s visitor,

forays into this emblematic painter’s universe include discove-

ring the Cezanne's Studio on the old Lauves hill or exploring

the open-air Bibémus quarries.

Walk in the steps of Cezanne and visit the city as he expe-

rienced it… A pedestrian route marked by studs stamped with

a “C” allows you to discover the landmarks of his early years

(the houses where he lived as a child, his schools, etc), the

places that marked him, the addresses of his family and ac-

quaintances, the cafés where he met his friends and other

artists… From classical elegance to Baroque opulence, Aix’s

architectural heritage is the setting for your walk in the old

town and its surroundings.

turn to page 18

| 54 |

FROM AIX-EN-PROVENCE TO THE MEDITERRANEANTo the east, discover the Sainte-Victoire Mountain by the Cezanne

road: 75 km around the massif, leaving from Le Tholonet, with

stops at the Trois Sautets Bridge (Meyreuil) and La Barque (Fuveau),

other motifs of the painter. Magnificent panoramas of the mountain

from Beaurecueil and Saint-Antonin-sur-Bayon.

15 km to the south is Gardanne: Cezanne stayed there between

1885 and 1886. On the Frères hill, a path has been laid, dotted

with reproductions of the paintings, showing the development

of Cezanne's structural design. An open-air museum has been

created at the spot where the artist worked. Beautiful view of the

Sainte-Victoire Mountain from the path to the chapel of Notre-

Dame-des-Maures.

30 km to the south is L’Estaque, where Cezanne worked and lived

intermittently between 1864 and 1885. Here you will find some

of his other sources of inspiration. From the Painters’ path, you

can see the bay of Marseille, also immortalised by other artists,

especially Braque, Derain and Dufy.

cezanne-en-provence.com/en/

”Aix-en-Provence, the city of Cezanne”Presentation of Cezanne sites on Google Open Gallery:

tiny.cc/cezanne-googleopengallery

| 54 |

AIX-EN-PROVENCEGUIDED TOURIN THE STEPS OF CEZANNE

1 April › 31 October

Thursday | 10 am

Look out for nails stamped with a “C” on the footpath to explore the city in Cezanne's footsteps... Your guide will have selected for you the most significant places to remember the painter of Aix.

Duration 2 hrs on foot Start Tourist OfficeStandard price €10 In case of closing of Cezanne room at the Granet Museum, consult our rates.Free under 7s and City Pass holders No telephone reservationsBook at the Tourist Information desk and on:booking.aixenprovencetourism.com

€10

Free

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THE CEZANNE SITESOpen the door of the Cezanne'Studio and enter the artist’s private world. Admire a few of his works in the space dedi-cated to him in the Granet Museum.

In the Bibémus quarries, see through Cezanne’s eyes at the Sainte-Victoire Mountain opposite you (photo) or admire other panoramas of the mountain from the Painters’path, Beaurecueil and Saint-Antonin-sur-Bayon.

| 98 |

This is Paul Cezanne’s only studio. Between 1902 and his death in

1906, the painter worked daily in this room flooded with light where

dozens of pieces were created and now appear in the greatest

museums in the world. The studio is no longer home to the artist’s

paintings but instead to the quiet yet relentless painter’s belongings.

Among them you will recognise pottery from his famous still-lifes,

the mini plaster cupid next to his clothes and work tools…

You will learn why Paul Cezanne built the studio on this hill and

how it was saved from hungry property developers…and you’ll

see why there’s the vertical crack in the upstair’s wall, skulls laid

amongst Provençal tiles… As any admirer of Cezanne knows, you

can really feel the painter’s spirit here. The studio is home to a gift

and book shop and regularly hosts temporary exhibitions.

IN THE PAINTER’S PRIVATE WORLD

L’ATELIER DE CEZANNE 9, avenue Paul Cezanne

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| 98 |

• Tour takes around 30 min• Capacity max. 18 peopleReservation advised

INDIVIDUAL PRICES • Full price €6,50 | Reduced price €3,50 (13-25s)• Free under 13s, jobseekers, disabled people,Press, ICOM, tour guides (upon presentationof the relevant card) and City Pass holders.• Audioguide supplement €3

TICKETS• On sale on site, at Aix-en-Provence Tourist Officeand on: booking.aixenprovencetourism.com• Fnac, Carrefour, Géant, Magasins U, Intermarché and on

www.francebillet.com +33 (0) 892 684 694 (0.40€/mn).Full list of sales points: www.dispobillet.comNo telephone reservations

GETTING THERE• Bus : no. 5, Cezanne stop and no. 12, Auriol stop

+33 (0)9 70 80 90 13 www.aixenbus.fr• Car: Pasteur car park advised • Tourist coaches: marked places on Raymond Poincaré avenue | GPS : 43°32’22 N - 5°26’47 E

*Other guided tours times may be available at the Tourist Office and on: booking.aixenprovencetourism.com

L'ATELIER DE CEZANNE

OPENING HOURS AND GUIDED TOURS TIMES 2018 (subject to availability)

€6,50

Free

1 April > 31 May 10am > 12.30pm2pm > 6pm

10am, 2pm    *5pm

1 June > 30 September

10am > 6pm 10am, 2pm    *5pm

1 October > 31 March

10am > 12.30pm2pm > 5pm

10am, 2pm    * 4pm

Closed: 1 to 9 January, 1 May, 25 December and Sundays in January, February, December.

| 1110 |

A LIFE-SIZE PAINTING

LE TERRAIN DES PEINTRES

Chemin de la Marguerite

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Take a 15 minute walk from Cezanne’s Studio and experience Paul

Cezanne’s favourite vista of Sainte-Victoire Mountain.

Cezanne often left his studio to go to the top of Les Lauves Hill

where he set up his easel facing Sainte-Victoire Mountain. Between

1902 and 1906, he painted it from this stunning spot 17 times in

watercolour and 11 times in oil.

Walk up Chemin de la Marguerite from the studio to see nine re-

productions on glazed lava stone that reflect the great outdoors.

| 1110 |

LE TERRAIN DES PEINTRESGETTING THERE

15 min walk from the Cezanne workshop. Go up Paul Cezanne Avenue, cross the roundabout of the Cezanne Gate, turn left and take the stairs leading to the Painters path.

• Bus : no. 5 and no. 12, Les Peintres stop +33 (0)9 70 80 90 13 | www.aixenbus.fr

• Parking for touring coaches by the Filippi avenuerespect the location located before the entrance to the residence.

Free

| 1312 |

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When he was over 50 years old, Cezanne sought the peace of these

abandoned quarries whose ochre rocks set off the deep green pine

trees and blue Provençal sky.

The artist used this stunning scenery to produce world-renowned

pieces between 1895 and 1904 that set Cubism on course such as

The Red Rock.

The tour is an hour-long walk among the Mediterranean woods deep

in the Grand Site Sainte-Victoire. The guide will take you by huge

blocks before stopping in front of a lovely hut where the painter

stored his equipment before ending on the belvedere with views of

Sainte-Victoire Mountain.

IN THE MAGIC OF INSPIRATION

LES CARRIÈRES DE BIBÉMUSET LE CABANON DE CEZANNE3090, chemin de Bibémus

| 1312 |

• Tour takes 1 hour approximately• Site located in the middle of nature, steep path requiring agood level of mobility. Walking shoes recommended• Capacity max. 20 people, reservation advised• Open to guided tours only, no independent visits• Start 3 Bons Dieux car park, in a special shuttle bus (free parking). Appointment 45 min before the tour.

INDIVIDUAL PRICES (including €1.20 for the shuttle bus)• Full price €7,70 | Reduced price €4,70 (13-25s)• Free (except €1.20 for the shuttle bus): under 13s, jobseekers, disabled people, Press, ICOM and tour guides (upon presentation of the relevant card). Tour and free shuttle for City Pass holders.

TICKETS From Aix-en-Provence Tourist Office and on: booking.aixenprovencetourism.com No telephone reservations

GETTING THERE• Bus: no. 6, car park Les 3 Bons Dieux stop

+33 (0)9 70 80 90 13 www.aixenbus.fr• Car: Les 3 Bons Dieux car park (free). Departure point for the shuttlebus for visiting the Bibémus quarries | GPS : 43°32’6.96 N - 5°28’32.29 E

LES CARRIÈRES DE BIBEMUS

GUIDED TOURS TIMES 2018(subject to availability)

Pets not allowed on any sites

1 April > 31 May Monday, Wednesday,Friday, Sunday

11am 3pm

1 June > 30 September Everyday 9.45am

1 October > 31 March Wednesday, Saturday 3pm

Closed: 1 to 9 January, 1 May, 25 December. The site may be closed by prefec-tural order depending on weather conditions, from June to September. Check the evening before your visit at myprovence.fr/enviedebalade (Sainte-Victoire and Concors), or by telephone: +33 (0)8 11 20 13 13 (surcharged number).

€7,70

Free

| 1514 |

Free

Ten of Cezanne’s oil-paintings are owned by this museum which

is considered as one of the finest in France, displayed together in

a dedicated room. A group of watercolours and drawings is also

put on public display every three years to better conserve them.

Cezanne studied drawing in this building from 1857 to 1862: the

former priory of the Order of Malta housed a free school, set up by

the city of Aix after its collection of art works was installed there in

1828. Many of these works were used for educational purposes:

as a student, Cezanne copied paintings such as

Frillié’s Kiss of the Muse, The Prisoner of Chillon

by Edouard Dubuffet and Peaches on a Dish

of the 17th century French school, and these

compositions are often found in his still lifes.

+ 33 (0)4 42 52 88 32www.museegranet-aixenprovence.fr

Tickets available to buy at the Tourist Office and on: booking.aixenprovencetourism.com

INSIDE THE WORK OF CEZANNE

LE MUSÉE GRANET Place Saint-Jean-de-Malte

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| 1514 |

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Listed as historical monument, the Jas de Bouffan house and its

grounds were the painter’s family home for forty years. It is destined

to become a go-to site to experience the life and work of Cezanne.

Following renovation work, a scenography and museum project will

restore the ground floor to its former 19th century Aix-style «bastide»

glory; the large reception room where the young Cezanne painted

the walls will be restored and the first floor will display international

temporary exhibitions.

No visits during current renovation work

IN THE HOUSE WHERE IT ALL BEGAN

LA BASTIDE DU JAS DE BOUFFAN17, route de Galice

| 1716 |

L' ATELIER DE CEZANNE

9, avenue Paul Cezanne, 13090 Aix-en-Provence +33 (0)4 42 21 06 53 | GPS : 43°32’19 N - 5°26’46 E

infos@atelier-cezanne.com cezanne-en-provence.com

LES CARRIÈRES DE BIBÉMUS3090, chemin de Bibémus, 13100 Aix-en-Provence

+33 (0)4 42 16 11 61 | GPS : 43°31’52 N - 5°30’02 Eaccueil@aixenprovencetourism.com cezanne-en-provence.com

LE TERRAIN DES PEINTRESChemin de la Marguerite, 13100 Aix-en-Provence GPS : 43°32’49 N - 5°26’40 E infos@atelier-cezanne.com cezanne-en-provence.com

OFFICE DE TOURISME D'AIX-EN-PROVENCE300, avenue Giuseppe Verdi - BP 40160 13605 Aix-en-Provence cedex 1

+33 (0)4 42 16 11 61 GPS : 43°31’35 N - 5°26’39 E | Parking Rotondeaixenprovencetourism.com

VISITE POUR GROUPESÀ partir de 15 personnes, réservation obligatoire

L'atelier de Cezanne | +33 (0)4 42 16 80 26 sites@aixenprovencetourism.com

Les carrières de Bibémus | +33 (0)4 42 16 11 65 visites@aixenprovencetourism.com

PR

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| 1716 |

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Towards the Bibémus quarries 7 km

(3 Bons Dieux car park 3 km)

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Towards the Cezanne’s Studio 1,6 km

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Legend:

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1 STATUE DE CEZANNE • Next to the Tourist Office Bronze by Gabriel Sterk, donated to the city in 2006 by the Aix-en-Œuvres association.

2 SOCIÉTÉ DES AMIS DES ARTS • 2 bis, avenue VictorHugo. Founded in 1894, the company moved into these pre-mises, a former garage, in 1895. Cezanne exhibited paintings there on three occasions: 1895: The Arc Valley and landscape (study). 1902: Meadow at Jas de Bouffan, near Aix and still life. 1906: Castle of the devil otherwise known as Black Castle on the Tholonet road.

3 COLLÈGE MIGNET • 41, rue Cardinale (formerly collège Bourbon). Cezanne was a pupil here from 1852 (first year of secondary school) to 1858. After failing the first session of the arts baccalaureate on 4 August 1858, Cezanne passed it on 12 November 1858. This is where he became friends with the writer Émile Zola, the scientist Jean-Baptistin Baille and Louis Marguery (Court attorney).

4 DOMICILE DE MARIE CEZANNE • 8, rue Frédéric Mistral (formerly rue de la Monnaie). Marie, the artist’s sister, lived here in 1897 (letter from Cezanne to Solari dated 30 January 1897).

WALKINGTOURIN THE STEPSOF CEZANNE

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5 DOMICILE D’HORTENSE ET DE PAUL CEZANNE FILS 9, rue Frédéric Mistral. On 12 February 1891, after their trip to Switzerland, Cezanne reduced the allowance of his wife and son so that they would return to Aix. As Hortense had fallen out with her in-laws, Cezanne set them up in this apartment while he lived at the Jas de Bouffan house with his mother and sister.

6 ÉCOLE DE DESSIN - MUSÉE GRANET • Place Saint-Jean-de-Malte. As student here from 1857 to 1862, Cezanne took life model classes and lessons in drawing antiquities in which the models were plasters and marbles conserved in the museum. On 25 August 1859, he received the School’s second prize for drawing.

7 ÉGLISE SAINT-JEAN-DE-MALTE • Place Saint-Jean-de-Malte. Funeral of Mrs Cezanne senior, on 27 October 1897.

8 CHAPELLE DES PÉNITENTS BLANCS • Rue du Maréchal Joffre. The Bourguignon de Fabregoules collection, be-queathed to the city of Aix for the Granet Museum, was shown in this former chapel for ten years, from 1866 to 1876. On 19 October 1866, Cezanne wrote to Zola: ”AsFather Gibert from the museum had invited me to visit the Bourguignon Museum, I went with Baille, Marion and Va-labrègue. I found it all bad.”

9 CIMETIÈRE SAINT-PIERRE • Cezanne was buried here on 24 October 1906 (lane n°6). The ashes of John Rewald, the art historian who founded the Cezanne’s Studio Museum, have been here since 1994.

10 MAISON NATALE • 28, rue de l’Opéra. Paul was born on 19 January 1839, in a charitable institution run by the Misses Michel, near Miss Aube’s boarding school of the Nativity.

11 ATELIER DE PHILIPPE SOLARI • Rue de l’Opéra. The sculptor Philippe Solari (1840-1906) was a childhood friend of Cezanne.

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12 DOMICILE D’ÉMILE BERNARD • 9, rue de l’Opéra. On 4 February 1904, on his return from Egypt via Marseille, the painter Émile Bernard visited Cezanne in Aix for the first time.

13 DOMICILE DES CEZANNE DE 1878 À 1881 and then the Conil home • 20, rue Émeric David. In mid-September, Mrs Cezanne senior left L’Estaque and the family moved to this new address. The house, which cost 16,500 Francs, was part of Rose’s dowry. Cezanne’s nieces and nephews born: Marthe-Anna-Marie Conil on 3 October 1882, Marie-Antoi-nette-Paule Conil on 3 May 1885, Marie-Rose-Amélie Conil on 27 December 1888, and Louis Conil on 20 September 1892.

14 DOMICILE DU PEINTRE ACHILLE EMPERAIRE • 15, rue Émeric David where Cezanne stayed for a month and rented an apartment from Mrs de S… before moving into the ground floor of the Lauves Studio.

15 ANCIENNE CHAPELLERIE DU COURS MIRABEAU 55, cours Mirabeau. Home of Louis-Auguste Cezanne. After working in the Aix factory of the wool merchant Dethés, Paul’s father Louis-Auguste Cezanne left and went to Paris to learn the hatter’s trade. On his return in 1825, he worked in the Carbonnel workshop at this address and met Anne-Élisabeth Aubert, who was a hat-maker at the time. After the birth of Paul, Anne-Élisabeth Aubert and her baby moved in with the child’s father.

16 CAFÉ DES DEUX GARÇONS • 53 bis, cours Mirabeau (ground floor of the Gantès Hotel). On 7 October 1906, Ce-zanne wrote to his son: ”Yesterday evening before dinner, from 4 to about 7pm, I was with Capdeville (the pharmacist), Niolon (the painter), Fernand Bouteille (president of the Bar), etc., at the Café des Deux Garçons.”

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17 APPARTEMENT DE MADAME CEZANNE MÈRE • 30, cours Mirabeau. She lived here from 1895 onwards. From June to September 1897, Cezanne visited his mother every evening and dined with her: ”He has supper in the evening and stays the night with his mother, whom he cares for tenderly. She is disabled; he takes her out in the car, and to enjoy the sunshine at Le Jas. She is as slim and slight as a child, and he carries her himself, in his arms which are still strong, from the car to her chair. He is constantly telling her affectionate jokes.” This is where she died on 25 October 1897.

18 DOMICILE DES CEZANNE DE 1844 À 1850 • 14, rue de la Glacière. The registered residence of Louis-Auguste Cezanne at the time of his wedding in 1844. In the marriage contract drawn up on 10 January 1844, Louis-Auguste is mentioned as a former hatter, house-owner, with no profession.

19 FONTAINE DE LA RUE DES BAGNIERS • In 1926, the art dealer Ambroise Vollard gave the city a bronze medal made by the sculptor Richard Guino, a student of Maillol, based on a drawing and instructions by Renoir.

20 ÉGLISE DE LA MADELEINE • Place des Prêcheurs. Christe-ning of Paul Cezanne, on 20 February 1839. Christening of Paul’s sister Marie Cezanne on 7 July 1841. Wedding of Louis-Auguste Cezanne and Élisabeth Aubert on 30 January 1844. Blessing of marriage of Paul’s second sister Rose Ce-zanne to Maxime Conil on 27 February 1881.

21 DOMICILE DE JOACHIM GASQUET • 30, rue Portalis (formerly rue Saint-Louis). The poet and novelist Joachim Gasquet (1873-1921) sat for Cezanne in 1896. This portrait, one of the painter’s most famous, is in the Národní Gallery in Prague. Cezanne stayed with Gasquet in 1899 while work was being done on his apartment at 23, rue Boulegon.

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22 MAISON DE LA GRAND-MÈRE MATERNELLE DE PAUL CEZANNE • 23, rue Suffren.

23 ÉCOLE CATHOLIQUE SAINT-JOSEPH • 16, cours Saint-Louis. Cezanne was a pupil here from 1850 to 1852. He met Henri Gasquet, the father of the poet and art critic Joachim.

24 DERNIER APPARTEMENT DE CEZANNE 23, rue Boulegon. In the autumn of 1899, after the Jas de Bouffan house was sold, Cezanne moved into this, his last home; it was here that he died of pleurisy on 23 October 1906, at 7am.

25 BANQUE PATERNELLE • 13, rue Boulegon. In 1856, the bank moved to this new address. This is where Paul agreed to work after his time in Paris.

26 ÉCOLE COMMUNALE • Rue des Épinaux. Cezanne was a pupil here from 1844 to 1850. This is where he met Philippe Solari, who became a sculptor.

27 DOMICILE DES CEZANNE DE 1850 À 1870 • 14, rue Matheron. Rose Cezanne born on 1 June 1854. Cezanne spent his youth partly here and partly at the Jas de Bouffan house. The 1860 census mentions Paul Cezanne, ”clerk”, as living at this address.

28 HÔTEL DE VILLE • Marriage ceremony of Paul Cezanne andHortense Fiquet on 28 April 1886.

29 BANQUE PATERNELLE • 24, rue des Cordeliers. The Cezanne and Cabassol bank, with capital of 100,000 Francs, opened for business on 1 June 1848.

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30 CATHÉDRALE SAINT-SAUVEUR • 34, place Martyrs de la Résistance. Christening of Rose Cezanne, on 5 June 1854. Funeral of Paul Cezanne on Wednesday 24 October 1906, at 10am. ”On Sundays we went to mass. He was dressed in his best. He sat in the Factory pew and followed the service attentively. I had seen Cezanne here before, below the big painting of the Burning Bush, in which Moses looks uncannily like him.” (Émile Bernard)

31 FACULTÉ DE DROIT • Place de l’Université. Cezanne enrolled here on 16 December 1858. He passed the first exam but did not enrol for the new academic year in 1860, his final degree year, which would have enabled him to practise as a barrister and ma-gistrate.

32 ÉGLISE SAINT-JEAN-BAPTISTE DU FAUBOURG • 34, cours Sextius. Blessing of marriage of Paul Cezanne and Hortense Fiquet, the day after their civil wedding, on 29 April 1886. Funeral of Paul’s father, Louis-Auguste Cezanne, on 24 October 1886.

© 2018- Design piquetdesign | Photos DR J.-C.Car-bonne, S. Spiteri, Office de Tourisme d'Aix-en-Provence, Map agence Saluces, Avignon | Cover S.Spitéri | ISBN

2-914310-34-X EAN 9782914310345 | Please do not litter

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