Aislinn Dress Tutorial

8/8/2019 Aislinn Dress Tutorial

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Patterns and Tutorials for sweet kids clothing

“ Aislinn” 1101

PICTURES

Description:

Sizing Guidelines:Standard US Sizing guidelines for basic reference (in inches).

Age 1 2 3 4 5 6Chest 20” 21” 22” 23” 24” 25”

Waist 19 ½” 20” 20 ½” 21” 21 ½” 22” Height 31” 34” 37” 40” 43” 46” Approxdresslength

17 18 19 20 22 24

Supplies: Sewing Machine, Serger (optional), Cotton Fabric as outlined in the table, iron (with Steamfeature), scissors, pins, thread, elastic thread, ruler, rotary cutter and mat (optional), fabric marker orchalk.

Skill Level: knowledge of how to work your sewing machine/serger, straight and curved seams,ruffling, and rolled hem (or serged edge), measuring and cutting the pattern pieces.

Estimated Fabric Yardage for this pattern using 42-44” width fabric:


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Cut the following pattern pieces, measured in Inches:

1 2 3 4 5 6Dress Cut 1

31x14Cut 132 ½ x15

Cut 134x16

Cut 135½ x 17

Cut 137 x 18

Cut 138½ x 19

ShoulderStraps

Cut 210x4

Cut 210x4

Cut 211x4

Cut 211x4

Cut 212x4

Cut 212x4

Lower

Ruffle

Cut 2

30x4

Cut 2

31x4

Cut 2

32x4

Cut 2

32x4

Cut 2

33x4

Cut 2

33x4Tie Cut 2

32x4Cut 232x4

Cut 233x4

Cut 233x4

Cut 234x4

Cut 234x4

Fabric CutsInstructions:*Seam Allowance is ½” unless otherwise specified.

1.

Line up short edges of the dress section with fabric right sides together and sew the back seam.Serge or zig-zag stitch to finish the edges of the seam. Mark the center front of the dressopposite the back seam, open the dress and match up the center front and back and mark thesides of the dress at the top and bottom (we use a long chalk mark that extends past the seamallowance at the top and bottom)

2. Turn right side out and serge along the top of the dress bodice. If you are not using a serger,fold the fabric over ¼” and press, then fold over another ¼” to conceal the raw edge and sewalong the hem (rolled hem). Be sure to relocate your side seam markings if you use the rolledhem.

Serged Edge Rolled Hem


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3. Prepare the shoulder straps by folding the strip lengthwise (long edges) wrong sides together.Open and lay strap flat right side down. Fold in one side to meet center crease and do the samefor the other side. Fold the strap in half on the original pressed seam to enclose raw edges.Finally Top stitch around the entire strap and finish raw edges (serge or zig zag).

Fold in each side Encase edges Top Stitch

4.

Prepare the lower ruffle by laying each of the pieces right side together, and sew the seam alongeach short edge to create a circle of fabric. Fold and press the fabric in half wrong sidestogether to create a 2” ruffle. Starting at one seam line along the raw edge, use a basting stitchto sew a continuous line around the ruffle 1/4” from the edge. Do not backstitch or overlap your stitches and use the longest stitch available on your machine leaving long threads at the beginning and end of the circle to pull up the ruffle.

Sew along edges to create circle Fold in half

5. Pin the ruffle to the lower edge of the dress with right sides together, line up the side seams with the side markings that you made in Step 1 and pin. Pull up the bobbin thread on the ruffleand distribute gathers evenly. Sew to the dress ruffle side up to prevent unwanted tucks.

Pull up threads to create ruffle Sew ruffle onto dress


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6. Finish the raw edge of the ruffle and dress with Serger or zig zag stitch. Fold the ruffle downand press with seam up. Topstitch along the edge catching the seam in the upright position.

Fold up ruffle seam and press Top Stitch ruffle

7. Prepare tie by stitching together short edges right side together to create one long tie piece.Fold in half lengthwise right sides together and sew along the raw edges starting at the shortedge at the crease. Sew along the short edge with a ¼” seam, at the corner with needle down,lift presser foot and pivot fabric, lower presser foot and continue along the long edge of the tie.

8. Leave an opening near the center seam of the tie about 2” long. To do this, stop your stitch 1”from the center seam, lift needle and presser foot, pull threads for slack (do not cut), replacefabric 1” from the other side of the seam, lower presser foot and Repeat the pivot at the othershort edge.

Leave an opening for turning by stopping your stitches, and restarting them 2” away.

9.

Trim corners and turn tie to the right side by pulling through the opening. Press the tie, fold inthe seam allowance at the opening and top stitch to close (you can continue to topstitch allaround the tie if you want.


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Fold in seam allowance and top stitch at opening.

10. Prepare dress for shirring. Mark a straight line around the bodice measuring from the top ofthe bodice at the following measurements:1 2t 3t 4t 5 63” 3 ½” 4” 4” 4 ½” 4 ½”

Mark a line around the bodice

11. To prepare for shirring, wind the elastic thread onto a bobbin (usually by hand, do not stretch)and place into bobbin compartment. Load regular thread on the top spool and thread yourneedle. Adjust your machine settings so that the top tension is high (I use the highest setting but you may need to may some test stitches to get the right tension.) Using a long stitch (I use

#4, basting stitch). Make test stitches on scrap fabric and make adjustments as necessary.


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Wind elastic thread onto bobbin by hand, use regular thread on top.

12. Begin first row approximately 1/2” from the top seam. With your sewing machine needlecentered, line up the edge of your presser foot with the edge:

13. Begin second top row with presser foot lined up along the edge of the first row. Stretch thefabric slightly as you go so you don’t have any tucks or puckers. Continue with the shirringaround the bodice chalk line you marked in Step 10. The more rows you add, the more shirring you will have. Our Sample has two rows at the top and three around the bodice.


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Make second row by lining up Begin bodice shirring along chalk line.

Presser foot against first rowOf shirring stitches.

Continue second row of bodice shirring by lining up the presser foot on the first row, repeat for thirdrow.

14. The final step in shirring will give you the most results, make sure your steam iron is hot andfull of water! Replace the elastic bobbin with regular thread, to sew the shoulder straps.Prepare your shoulder straps placement by laying dress flat and starting at the center backseam, center and pin the straps at the halfway point between the center back seam and side.Repeat for the other strap, then turn over and match up the straps and pin to the front. Adjustthe strap length as necessary, as a general rule follow these measurements, but be sure to leavea little extra just in case it needs to be adjusted later (Length of strap in inches Size: 1: 7”, Size2: 7 ½”, Size 3: 8”, Size 4: 8 ½”, Size 5: 9”, Size 6: 9”). Sew the strap just under the sergededge of the dress bodice (or at the rolled hem stitch).


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Pin straps centered on the bodice.

Sew strap just under the serged (rolled) edge.

15.

Now that your iron is nice and hot, set it on the highest steam setting and turn the dress insideout. Place the iron about 1” above the shirred stitches and hit it with lots of steam. This willmake the elastic shrink and give you the desired shirring. Rotate the garment and repeat.

Turn dress wrong side out to iron the elastic stitches on the inside.


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Hold the iron 1” above the stitches and use lots of steam.

Turn right side out and marvel at the finished shirring!

16. Finally, you can attach your tie to the bodice so it doesn’t slip. Simply line up the back seamsand pin, stitch along the ditch of the seam. Don’t forget to back stitch a few stitches at the topand bottom.

Pin and attach tie to the center back seam.


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Congratulations! You have a Freckles on Top original!

© 2011 Freckles on TopSan Diego, CA

All Rights Reserved. This pattern is for personal home use only and may not be sold, reproduced, transferred or copied by any means without writtenconsent from Freckles on Top. Freckles on Top is not responsible for any errors in printing, workmanship or other results created by the purchaser. By

purchasing this pattern you receive a license to use the patterns, tutorials and tips inside. Purchaser is granted permission to sell items created from thispattern and/or tutorial provided they are created personally by the purchaser in limited quantities (Each listing must contain a link back to my shopand/or website www.etsy.com/frecklesontop). This pattern and/or tutorial and items made from them are NOT for industrial or commercial use and

NOT licensed for boutique, clothing stores or other retail outlets and may not be distributed or sold as such. Thank you for respecting my work!

Aislinn Dress Tutorial

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