After GSE – Across the USA

The morning after the conference dinner it was time to say our goodbyes and the team was about to scatter in many

different directions. Our starting point was the Austin Airport. Mick and Jenny were catching flights; Mick on the first

leg of the long journey to Perth and Jenny to visit her friend in Chicago. Kylie and Steve collected hire cars there

ready for our respective journeys. Kylie and husband started off back at the Lost Pines resort, while Steve

accompanied by Jo made the first tentative steps of driving on the wrong side of the road all the way to Dallas,

where Jo was meeting up with partner John.

In chats during the course of GSE, many of my Rotarian friends contributed suggestions of places of interest and

must see items. The Grand Canyon was my only fixed plan to start with, and everything else was to be determined.

Hanspeter Tobler suggested the Panhandle Plains Museum and the musical show Texas at Palo Duro Canyon.

Chatting with John Cooney about the possibility of Four Corners added the suggestion of the Arches in Utah. Kim and

Kelly Barr said the Cirque de Soleil show Beatles Love at the Mirage was a must see if going through Las Vegas. In the

last week a gift from Jerry and Lucy Goodrich, the book Route 66 Adventure Handbook (Drew Knowles) was to

become my guide, constant companion and source of information and along the journey. I was adding these to my

Google map as we went, so I had some initial goals. The Google map told me the I-40 direct route should be 1780

miles (2850km) with expected driving time of 27 hours.

But, I had certainly under-estimated the size of the overall goal to travel from Austin to Los Angeles in six days whilst

seeing as much as possible along the way. Adding in getting off the beaten track on Route 66, travel to various places

of interest and stops along the way it probably ended up with many more miles. So those possible plans too far off

the path like Four Corners and the Arches unfortunately became a bridge too far in the limited time available.

Following on the very intensive GSE it certainly was an epic journey.

Monday 18th

June – Dallas

It’s a small world, driving in the Dallas ready to see the sights and my first stop was the car park at The Sixth Floor

Museum, and met up quite by chance with Jo and John.

Unfortunately Monday is closing day for some of the Dallas attractions which was not known until getting to them.

So the walk to the Dallas Museum of Art and drive to The Civil War museum were in vain except for pictures outside

each (I was here).

The Sixth Floor Museum and the surrounding area were a really great visit. Starting off where it all happened on the

Grassy Knoll the site off the assassination of John F. Kennedy. The memorial has plaques with description of the

tragic historic event and map of the route being taken by the motorcade at the time.

The surrounding areas included the Old Red

Courthouse (another of those magnificent courthouse

buildings) and the John F. Kennedy memorial plaza.

The morning culminated in the visit to the Sixth Floor

Museum itself. Housed on the floor of the Texas

School Book Depository Building from which Lee

Harvey Oswald allegedly shot President Kennedy. The

museum provides the history of the event of the

assignation of President John F. Kennedy with details

of the assassination including the lead up and the

investigations that followed the event, but is also a

memorial of the Kennedy Presidency, its

achievements and also the contribution to further

changes in the years following.

The afternoon was on to the Fort Worth Stockyards National Historic District and the opportunity to take in the feel

of some of the history of the trails and cattle drives. I arrived in time for the afternoon session of the cattle drive,

allowing me to watch them drive the herd of longhorns from the stockyard through the streets of the District. This

historical area is filled with many interesting buildings and there were many other places of interest. The Stockyards

Rodeo, not open at the time but interesting and a great statue outside of “The First Bulldogger”, Texas Cowboy Hall of

Fame, Cowtown Cattlepen Maze and Livestock Exchange Building. Also a statue of Quanah Parker and the usual

Texas Historical Commission board that extended the history to which we were first introduced by Rick Price at Fort

Parker. More great history as the journey progressed. The streets have the stars of the Texas Trail of Fame with many

historical people included.

In a local restaurant (tavern) apart from the western décor, you could choose to enjoy your meal sitting in a saddle

at the bar.

Such a shame about the intrusive billboards everywhere you go, even spoiling the great public art. I found that to be a

common intrusion all the way across the “land of the billboard”, often providing visual litter along the roads and

highways for miles on end.

Tuesday 19th

June, rested by the stopover in Dallas and surrounds brought the next leg of the journey, 364 miles to

Amarillo. Amarillo is also the point at which my journey joined the historical Route 66, “The Main Street of

America”.

From 1926 through to the 1960’s, Route 66 from Chicago to Santa Monica played an important role in American

Culture. The nickname “the Mother Road” was given by John Steinbeck in the 1939 novel “The Grapes of Wrath” and

the Route was popularised by songs including “Get Your Kicks on Route 66”. The Interstate system with limited

access freeways has fortunately not managed to kill off all of the “Main Street of America” and the popular activities

and culture along the way. So, I considered myself lucky to have the opportunity to enjoy an adventure along part of

the historical Route 66 as I made the cross country journey guided in part by the Route 66 Adventure Handbook.

On arrival in Amarillo I booked my ticket for the musical “Texas”. The show is put on during summer (June to August)

in an open air theatre against the backdrop of the Palo Dura Canyon. This show traces the history of the Texas

Plains, cattle ranching and the native Indians.

The advertising of the show is a good description. “A family friendly show, set against the tapestry of history, the

shows fictional characters bring to life the stories, struggles and triumphs of the settlers of the Texas Panhandle in

the 1800’s. Son and dance abound and a generous helping of good ol’ Texas humour too, with spellbinding lighting,

special effects and fireworks.”

“A lone horseman, carrying the flag of the great state of Texas appears atop the 600 foot cliff, signalling the

beginning of the most spectacular outdoor musical in the nation. With a moving swell of music the horseman gallops

across the rim. Suddenly, a cast of more than 60 actors, singers and dancers takes the stage to kick off the show.”

It was a magnificent production and really worth a visit. For my Texan friends if you have not had the opportunity to

see this show it is worth the trip to the panhandle along with other features of the area.

Since photography was not allowed, I added some of the images from the show website and souvenir program to

share and help keep the memories alive.

Wednesday 20th

June probably turned out to be the biggest day of the journey. My plan was to be in Albuquerque

that night, but there were so many places to see and things to do around Amarillo. So, it was to be a busy day and

with tough choices to be made. I started the day early to get out to Palo Dura Canyon as soon as possible, and spent

the morning exploring the park. There I found wonderful scenic views, a great interpretive centre that covered all

the geological formations, history of the area and the flora and fauna of the Canyon.

The”Grand Canyon of Texas”, the Palo Duro Canyon is the second – largest

canyon in the United States, 120 miles long and 800 feet deep. The rocks

expose a geologic history which began approximately 250 million years

ago. The various formations show this geologic history through the variety

of rock types. There is also a rich history with settlement by various native

Indian tribes, and it also was often there protective area in the course of

the battle for domination in Texas. The “Battle of Palo Duro” was the

decisive battle of the Red River War and the final campaign against the

Southern Plains Indians. Most of the Canyon became part of the JA Ranch

operated by Col. Charles Goodnight which peaked in 1885 with 1,325,000

acres of land and 100,000 head of cattle.

I took some pictures of the open air theatre during the day, and also took

a walking trail through some rugged terrain along the 1.5 miles CCC Trail

and got a view from above.

After leaving the park, it was in to Canyon, Texas heading to the Panhandle Plains Historical Museum, on the campus

of West Texas A&M University. Another of the great museums of Texas. This exciting collection of artifacts and

exhibits educates and entertains with its depiction of the general history of Texas, geological and natural history

including wildlife exhibitions, early native indian history and lifestyle, Spanish exploration and control, the Mexican

War, American Civil War and wars with the Indians especially the Comanches. There is a lot of detail on the history

of the Panhandle plains, cattle ranching and trail drives. There are some some special exhibits likethe oil industry,

historical motor vehicles and rodeo. The museum brochuresays a lot about it, “Texas’ largest history museum, From

dinosaurs to oil fields, cowboysto indians, ancient artifacts tofine art and so much more – the permanent and special

exhibitions at PPHM offer something for everyone to enjoy. PETROLEUM – TEXTILES – ART – HISTORY –

ARCHEOLOGY – PALEONTOLOGY – ARCHIVES.

By the time I had finished the museum it was already late afternoon. A stop for a very late lunch at one of the Route

66 attractions, The Big Texan, home of the “Free”72 oz steak ( conditions apply, although I was not game enough to

try). Interesting western and hunting lodge décor, cowboy and cowgirl servers and the Route 66 memorabilia shop.

On the way out of town a stop at the famous Cadillac Ranch, before the 300 mile (480km) drive to Albuquerque.Even

though it was getting late, the scenic beauty of the area made it worthwhile to choose the historic Route 66 road

where available. Along the way was crossing the state border into New Mexico. End result was arriving at the

Albuquerque motel at 11pm.

Thursday 21st

June. The task for the day was to get to Williams, Arizona which was my jumping off point for the visit

to the Grand Canyon on Friday. The journey expected to be 400 miles (640km), but have the Petrified Forest

National Park and other places of interest along the way.

The first stop is Grants, New Mexico the home of the New Mexico Mining Museum, one of the few uranium mining

museums in the world complete with simulated underground mine.

The next “Route 66”stop is the Continental Divide. A small community named after the backbone of the American

Continent has a sign explaining that rainfall west of the dividing line flows to the Pacific, while that falling east flows

toward the Atlantic via the Gulf of Mexico.

A little further along Route 66, some more scenic beauty is Church Rock in the Red Rock State Park. East of Gallup is

home of the Intertribal Indian Ceremonial gathering in August (since 1922 a gathering of more than 30 tribes) and

the red Rock Balloon Rally in December. Near the entrance to the park Mr. Wilson’s Red Rock Trading Post is a

national historical landmark. The red cliffs have been the setting of many movie productions over the years. (1)

Although not a planned stop for any interest in casinos, the Fire Rock Navajo Casino provided a useful car park to

stop and take photos across the railway track of the distinctive rock formations. The Fire Rock Navajo Casino, located

just east of Gallup, NM on old route 66, is close to the Red Rock State Park was the first opened by the Navajo nation

in 2008 in a temporary, tent-like structure which remains.

Gallup, New Mexico, has a good section of the historical Route 66 paralleling the railway tracks. This is still home of

many of the old Route 66 attractions including the Navajo Code Talkers Room in the chamber of commerce building.

Here you can learn the story about how American strategists used the Navajo language to gain strategic advantage

to beat Japanese code breakers in the War of the Pacific.

Further down the road nature provides a spectacularly scenic arrival into Arizona. The border is marked by the

incredible rock formation features. The small Navajo settlement and shopping area also provides an opportunity for

the gift and souvenir shopper. Animal statues have been placed on the rock face behind the shops. The visitors

centre includes exhibitions of items of interests for the tourist and visitors to the State of Arizona, including Route 66

information and memorabilia.

The Petrified Forest National Park includes both the Painted Desert and the Petrified Forest. Entering the park from

the North off the I-40, the first stop was the Painted Desert Visitor Centre just after the park entrance. This provided

both an interpretive centre with descriptions of the features, history and geology of the park as well as the usual

shopping opportunity.

The Petrified Forest National Park was once a dense and humid forest and fallen trees have become mineralised

fossils of themselves, which exhibit the grain and growth ring characteristics of the original wood in the quartz and

agate fossils. The Park includes natural formations such as undisturbed fallen trees, but also man made features such

as the Puerco Indian Ruin, a 100 room pueblo dating from about A.D. 1250 and the petroglyph covered Newspaper

Rock.

The park is serviced by a 28 mile park road which takes in all the main sites and features, with long distance vistas of

the Painted Desert, access to viewing areas and hiking trails.

The Painted Desert featuring scenic landscapes formed by colourful mineral deposits provided many photographic

memories.

The Peurco Pueblo is a partially stabilised 100 room pueblo built about 1250 which may have housed nearly 1200

people. Here you can follow a short paved trail through the site viewing various exhibits and views of petroglyphs

along the way. Further on there was Newspaper Rock. There the viewing platform provides spotting scopes which

allow you to see hundreds of petroglyphs that are etched into the stone.

The Tepees are almost like natural pyramids (maybe cone shaped) that are coloured layers of blues, purples and

greys that are created by iron, carbon and manganese and other minerals.

The Blue Mesa was accessed via a 3 mile loop road which provides views of the badlands, log falls and pedestal logs

and access to a one mile trail into the badlands.

The Jasper Forest is an area where erosion of the high rocky bluff has left hundreds of petrified logs that were once

encased in the bluff strewn across the valley below. Nearby is also the unique feature of the Agate Bridge. This

natural bridge formed by a petrified log is being preserved by a supporting structure to prevent its loss by natural

damage.

The Crystal Forest has a paved trail that leads through a landscape of colourful petrified logs that once held glassy

amethyst and quartz crystals and allows a close up view of those petrified logs.

The Painted Desert and Petrified Forest are no longer accessible from the remains of Route 66, and although the old

Route 66 has mostly been removed, there remain areas where the course of the road can be discerned, and there is

a commemorative stop along the way following the State Park road. Exiting the park from the South and the turned

towards Holbrook to get back onto the I-40 before heading into a spectacular sunset as I progressed towards my

destination, Williams.

Williams Arizona was the last town bypassed by the construction of the I-40 in 1984 and therefore the last active

stretch of Route 66. A nice stretch of vintage 66 runs through the town lined with motels and other tourist related

businesses. This was a traditional jumping off point for visits to the Grand Canyon National Park. A variety of

businesses cater to the tourist and Route 66 market with signage and memorabilia and an obviously proud retention

of the Route 66 heritage.

Friday 22nd

brings me to the last full day of this cross country expedition. First target the Grand Canyon followed by a

drive to Las Vegas and hopefully Beatles Love at the Mirage.

What can you say about the Grand Canyon, except that it is a truly magnificent sight? The vistas are out of this

world. It is no wonder then that it is one of the seven natural wonders of the world (although these days that seems

to depend on whose list you look at). So this makes the official list as my second visit to a natural wonder of the

world (after Victoria Falls, although I have also been close to a third, Australia’s Great Barrier Reef).

You would have to say this sight alone was worth the cross country drive. In a series of days filled with highlights and

new discoveries, this will remain an outstanding high point. A longer visit with more of the activities (hiking, rafting,

mule rides, rail, the North Rim, etc) would certainly be worthwhile, but the schedule was tight, and a flight to catch

set a fixed time end of the journey. Marvellous Marv’s Grand Canyon Tour had been recommended by Liam and

Rosemary Early and proved to be a bonus not only for the knowledgeable guide, but also for a weary traveller to be

driven there and back in the bright orange luxury bus.

The Grand Canyon at 277 miles (446km) long and a mile (1.6km) deep (and nearly 2 billion years in the making) was

truly magnificent, with the Colorado River one and half kilometres below the South Rim, average 300 feet wide and

100 feet deep. The Canyon averages 10 miles wide for much of its length.

The Grand Canyon provides a window to geological history through billions of years as shown by the “Trail of Time”

(an interpretive walking timeline trail along the South Rim) shown by the graphic copied here. The Yavapai

Observation Station is not only a good viewing point but also an education source on the geological history.

But equally interesting is the man made history surrounding the Grand Canyon. Discovered in 1540 by Spanish

explorer Don Lopez de Cardenas it was /is the home of five different Native American tribes. The Grand Canyon

Forest Reserve established in 1893 and the Canyon was declared a national monument by Theodore Roosevelt in

1908 before being incorporated in a National Park in 1919. The Verkamp’s visitors centre shows local history ad

other information.

The Kolb Studio is a structure built

on the brink of the Grand Canyon,

originally constructed in 1904, it

was the home, photographic studio

and lab of brothers Emery and

Ellsworth Kolb. They were

photographers and explorers, who

settled in Grand Canyon in 1902

and were the first to document by

movie camera a boat trip down the

Colorado River. The studio now

hosts art exhibitions about the

Canyon and a museum of the

history of the Kolb brothers.

On return to Williams, it was immediately back on the road again. Target Las Vegas The journey took me past Hoover

dam and I took a bit of time out to take in the view.

Arrival at destination Las Vegas, check into the motel and onto the internet to check times and book ticket for the

Beatles Love show recommended by Kim and Kelly Barr. It was about an hour to start time, but for some reason

can’t manage to book a ticket online. So nothing else for it but to take the chance and go there and hope for the best

on getting ticket. Got to the Mirage and then had to explore my way through the massive maze. Fortunately

managed to get to the box office with ten minutes to spare and managed to get the ticket. It was a great show and

worth the rush to get there, but also have to admit that tiredness prevailed a few times causing me to doze (hope

there was no snoring ☺ ).

After the show, spent a while walking around the area, taking in the sights of the Las Vegas night lights and life,

including a stopover at the Bellagio to view the fountains with their music.

Saturday 23rd

June, the last day. Target Los Angeles with the “whispers in my ear” from my darling wife; if you

dawdle along the way and miss the flight I will find you and …….

Fortunately did manage to make it well ahead of time, so life still goes on ☺.