Africa & Middle East Textiles issue 2 2012

ISSUE TWO/2012DEUXIEME EDITION/2012

Pleins feux sur la Tunisie et le Maroc

Prévue D’ITMA Asie + CITME 2012

Mis à jour du secteur de machines

Spotlight on Tunisia and Morocco

ITMA Asia + CITME 2012 preview

Machinery sector update

Brother GT-3 Series printer

Printing trends anddevelopments/Tendances etdéveloppementsd'impression

AFTEX Issue 2 2012 Cove_cover.qxd 21/05/2012 10:09 Page 33

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Couverture: Impression de tissus numériqueInset: Machine d'impression de la Série GT-3 de Brother

DEVELOPMENTS 4News of recent textile projects, markets, contracts

SPOTLIGHT ON TUNISIA AND MOROCCO 6A look at the Tunisia and Morocco textile sectors

TEXTILE PRINTING 10Advancements in screen and digital printing

DYES AND CHEMICALS 13Dyebath monitoring aids right-first-time dyeing

ITMA ASIA + CITME 2012 PREVIEW 17Stage set for Asia’s biggest textile machinery trade expo

TEXTILE MACHINERY 19Global shipments of new textile machinery sees surge

APPAREL AFRICA 20Fabric testing – a constantly evolving science

DEVELOPPEMENTS 4Revue des récents projets textiles, marchés, contrats et compagnies

PLEINS FEUX SUR LA TUNISIA ET LE MAROC 6Un regard aux secteurs de textile de la Tunisie et du Maroc

IMPRESSION DES TEXTILES 10Les avancements de la sérigraphie et impression numérique

COLORANTS ET PRODUITS CHIMIQUES 13La surveillance du bain de teinture aide à obtenir u ne teinture réussie dès la première fois

PRÉVUE D’ITMA ASIE + CITME 2012 17Tout est prêt pour l'expo commercial de machines textiles le plus grand en Asie

MACHINES DE TEXTILE 19Hausse de chargements mondiales de nouvelles machines de textile

REVUE D’HABILLEMENT 20Machines de contrôle – une science en développement incessant

Cover: Digital textile printingInset: Brother GT-3 Series printer

CONTENTS

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AFRICA AND MIDDLE EAST TEXTILES ISSUE TWO/2012 3

Managing Editor: Prabhu Dev, [email protected]

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Printed by: Harrisons


TEXTILE NEWS

Global cotton trade likely torise by 13 per centGLOBAL TRADE IN cotton is expected to rise by 13 percent to 8.6 million metric tons this season, driven mostlyby record imports from China, the International CottonAdvisory Committee (ICAC) said recently.A surge in imports by China has reduced the amount ofcotton available in the rest of the world in the 2011-12season, which ends July 31, the ICAC said.While stocks in China are expected to more than double to5 million tons in 2011-12, stocks in the rest of the worldwill likely increase at a more moderate rate of 14 per centto 8.1 million tons, it said, estimating 2011-12 endingstocks at about 13.1 million tons.In 2012-13 global production will likely outpaceconsumption again and global stocks are expected toincrease by about 9 per cent to 14.3 million tons, it said.

New general manager forMulungushi TextilesTHE ZAMBIAN GOVERNMENT has appointed ageneral manager for Mulungushi Textiles in Kabwe, thecountry’s capital, as a first step towards reviving operationsof the firm previously run as a joint venture with China.Defence Minister Geoffrey Mwamba said, in an interviewwith the Times of Zambia news daily, that Brigadier-General Ken Mulenga from Zambia National Service(ZNS) would head the textile firm which was closed in2007. The massive structure on the Great North Road hasbeen lying idle while some parts have fallen apart after theChinese pulled out of the joint venture.“We’ve appointed a general manager to oversee the operationsof the closed textiles which in the past raised concerns,”Mwamba was quoted as saying by the Times of Zambia.

DyStar joins United NationsGlobal CompactDYSTAR HAS JOINED the United Nations GlobalCompact (UNGC) with the objective of strengthening theGroup’s commitment towards sustainability.Further building on its environmental and socialaccountability, DyStar would adopt this globallyrecognized policy framework for the development,implementation, and disclosure of environmental, social,and governance policies and practices within the companywith the objective of strengthening its commitmenttowards sustainability.Signing the Letter of Commitment, Harry Dobrowolski,CEO & President of the DyStar Group said, “Ourmembership of the United Nations Global Compactsignifies our commitment to adopt more positive andsustainable practices in our daily operations throughinnovation, commerce, technology and services thatbenefits the economies and societies worldwide.”

New regulations for textilesimports into EgyptTHE EGYPTIAN MINISTRY of Trade and Industry(MFTI) has issued a ministerial decree requiring aninspection certificate for imported Textile and Leathergoods. Shipments must be inspected and certified by anISO 17020 recognized body which is approved andregistered by General Organization for Import and ExportControl Egypt (GOIEC).Failing such an inspection certificate, products will beforbidden to enter the Egyptian market. This regulationcame into force in April 2012.The significant increase of textile product exports and thenewly enforced inspection certificate requirement forimported textile and leather products has created anincreased demand for consumer products testing servicesin the region.

June 2012

1 - 4 ITMA ASIA + CITME 2012 SHANGHAI, CHINA

www.itmaasia.com

7-10 OFPANZ Conference and Trade Expo QUEENSTOWN, NEW ZEALAND

www.ifai.com

13 - 15 ANEX 2012 - Asia Nonwovens Exhibition and Conference SEOUL, KOREA

www.anex2012.com

13 -14 Citext Europe 2012 TROYES, FRANCE

www.citext.fr

21 - 24 GFT 2012 BANGKOK, THAILAND

www.garmenttextile.com

July 201224 -26 International Apparel Sourcing Show NEW YORK, USA

www.apparelsourcingshow.com

24-26 Texworld USA NEW YORK, USA

www.texworldusa.com/

August 201228-30 Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles - Autumn edition SHANGHAI, CHINA

www.messefrankfurt.com.hk

September 20126-8 SPINEXPO™ Shanghai SHANGHAI, CHINA

www.spinexpo.com/shanghai

13-16 4th Islamic Fashion, Apparel and Accessories Fair STANBUL, TURKEY

www.demosfuar.com.tr.

October 20123 - 6 IGATEX Pakistan 2012 LAHORE, PAKISTAN

www.igatex.pk

22 - 24 Cinte Techtextil China SHANGHAI, CHINA

www.messefrankfurt.com.hk

22-24 China International Knitting Trade Fair SHANGHAI, CHINA

www.chinaknitting.com.cn

November 20124 - 6 ITMF Annual Conference 2012 HANOI, VIETNAM

wwww.itmf.org

7-9 5th International Technical Textiles Congress IZMIR, TURKEY

http://web.deu.edu.tr/ttk2012

13- 15 Filtration International Conference & Exposition PHILADELPHIA, USA

www.inda.org

DECEMBER 20122-7 India ITME 2012 - 9th India International Textile Machinery Exhibition MUMBAI, INDIA

www.india-itme.com

MARCH 20131 Outlook Asia 2013 NEW DELHI, INDIA

www.edana.org

28-30 MEGATECH Pakistan 2013 LAHORE, PAKISTAN

www.megatechpakistan.com

TEXTILE CALENDAR / CALENDRIER

Further information on these events can usually be obtained from the Embassy

(Commercial Office) of the country in question.

Des renseignements plus complets sur ces évènements peuvent être demandés de l’Ambassade (Bureau Commerciel) du pays en question

4 AFRICA AND MIDDLE EAST TEXTILES ISSUE TWO/2012


TEXTILE NEWS

Iranian researchers Tarbiat Modarres University, in collaboration withthe Institute for Color Science and Technology, have successfullydeveloped hematite nano-capsule as a non-toxic red pigment to be usedin textile industry.

“Cadmium sulphoselenide-zirconium inclusion red pigments wereproduced as the commercial red color due to the extreme need of textileindustries. However, cadmium sulphoselenide is very toxic and harmful.Results of international studies show that hematite is the best option,”Maryam Hosseini Zari, a member of the Scientific Board of Institute forColor Science and Technology, said.

Nano-capsule or inclusion red pigments are new generation ofpigments. These pigments, also known as non-similar or occludedpigments, are formed by placing the known and unstable pigments in abed of stable phases.

Dr. Hosseini explained how the nano-capsules were synthesized, andsaid, “We used co-precipitation synthesis method and also availableindustrial raw materials. We firstly determined the formulation and theweight, produced solutions containing the desirable ions withappropriate concentrations, and finally, we produced the precipitatorsolution.”

“Next, the solution containing iron ion reacted with the precipitatorsolution within the solution containing silisium ion under the controlledtemperature and other operational parameters. Mineralisers and additivesplay key role in the production of the product.”

The complementary research was carried out in Modena University, Italy.

ETHIOPIAN PRIME MINISTER Meles Zenawi has urged African countriesto focus more on infrastructure development to derive maximum benefitsfrom the textiles industry.

Speaking at the recently-heldOrigin Africa 2012-Ethiopia textiletrade expo in Addis Ababa, Melessaid the continent had vast untappedtextile resources that can spur rapideconomic growth.

“Africa has natural resources andcheap labour, which enable it to dothe work required in the industry,”Meles said.

The event was successful inbringing together decision makersand entrepreneurs from 20 Africancountries and served as an ideal platform for global buyers to make contactswith African industry and designers and to boost business.

The expo also saw participation from over 60 exhibitors from Africa,India, China, the US and the EU, covering the entire textile and apparelsupply chain including fibres, fabrics, home textiles and fashion accessories.

The four-day expo was organized by African Cotton and TextileManufacturers Federation (ACTIF), in collaboration with the EthiopianTextile Industry Development Institute (TIDI) and the Ethiopian Textile andGarments and Manufacturing Association (ETGAMA).

‘Infrastructure development key to attractingtextile investments in Africa’

Ethiopian Prime Minister Meles Zenawi

Brother Internationale Industriemaschinen GmbHDüsseldorfer Strasse 7-946446 Emmerich am RheinGermany

Phone: +49 (0) 2822-609-0Fax: +49 (0) 2822-609-50E-Mail: [email protected]: www.brother-ism.com

The Brother S-6200A Built-in type motor driven Single Needle

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Clean sewing without oil staining

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Coming soon!The New Brother GT-3 Series!

Single Platen White InkDirect-to-Garment Printer

one-pass-fast function(GT-361 + GT-381 only)

up to 1200dpi upgradability

Iranian scientists develop new non-toxic pigmentfor textile industry


S02 AFTEX 2 2012 Textile News_calendar.qxd 22/05/2012 10:24

WTO’s recently released trade statistics* reveals how bad conditionsfor most textile and clothing exporters were in 2009 and 2010.

Global trade in textiles slumped from US$248.41 bn in 2008 to just$209.82 bn the following year, recovering to US$250.65bn in 2010.Clothing trade fell from $363.62 bn to $315.52 bn, again bouncing back toUS$351.46bn in 2010. High oil prices and their depressing effect on worldeconomic activity were widely seen as the cause. Few exporters wereimmune, and certainly not the two top textile and clothing exportingcountries of Northwest Africa, Morocco and Tunisia.

For these rival producers, the final export totals in millions of US$ wereas follows, with ‘significant others’ – many of which did much better thanthe northwestern twins, Egypt in both industries especially – listedalongside:

2008 2009 2010Morocco – textiles 330 305 267Morocco – clothing 3420 3080 2743Tunisia – textiles 478 395 463Tunisia – clothing 3766 3120 3043Egypt – textiles 759 1019 1292Egypt – clothing 773 1320 1277China – textiles 65367 59824 76900China – clothing 120405 107264 129838Turkey – textiles 9396 7723 8964Turkey – clothing 13590 11565 12760

However, the good news is that, according to first-half 2011 exporttotals monitored by the national trade associations AMITH (Morocco) andFENATEX (Tunisia) respectively, business in industrial sectors in bothcountries picked up sharply; indeed sales to the critical West European

(EU) markets were already on the rise before the end of 2010. Indicationsfor 2012 are similarly promising, encouraged very much by the realprogress that has been made in sorting out the stability and reputation ofthe single European (euro) currency.

Also, from a national balance of payments point of view, conditions aremoving in the right direction, in both countries too. Dependence on thesekey employment-providing industries is on the way, with Morocco’s totaldependence on both halves of the industry falling from 34 per cent ofmerchandise exports in 2000 to just 17.1 per cent in 2010. Phosphates,pharmaceutical products and high-tech engineering have made up much ofthe difference.

In the case of Tunisia, the comparable dependency figures are even moredramatically down over the decade, from 40.7 per cent to 21.3 per cent,with growth of exports of automotive components, chemicals andprocessed foods compensating for the most of this decline. In both cases,tourism receipts have been on the rise too, and it has been clothing exportsthat suffered most, with this factor being very evident in the provisional2011 figures recorded so far. The effects of the ‘Arab Spring’ have still tobe seen in the results, of course.

Morocco, the junior partner in this textile/clothing rivalry (just), is stillclearly recovering from the 2008/09 business downturn, depending heavily

FOCUS ON TUNISIA AND MOROCCO

The period 2009-10 was a tough one for textile and clothing exporters. However, Northwest Africa managed tosurvive and both its EU and US sales are now back on track

Tunisia, Morocco onrecovery path

Indications for 2012 are promising,encouraged very much by the real

progress that has been made in sorting outthe stability and reputation of the single

European (euro) currency



on sales of denim– and knitwear to France, Spain and the UK especially.Clothing remains the Kingdom’s number-one industrial employer, withsubstantial state funds allocated to promoting R&D in the largely privately-run industry (design particularly) in order to keep ahead of rivals in termsof competitiveness near and far. The short-sea ferry route to Europe is aparticular advantage. So is the level of foreign investment, especially fromEurope, in the industry.

Tunisia is often seen as the economic powerhouse of North Africa,repeatedly coming top, or near to it, of the African continent as a whole interms of industrial competitiveness. The Arab Spring of course started here;it continues elsewhere but economic conditions were swiftly remodelled inthe case of this high-tech (in terms of information and communicationstechnologies) country, and the recent output of the textile and clothingindustries seems to have been more affected by turmoil on the worldmarkets than the changed conditions at home. The level of foreignparticipation in Tunisia’s textile and clothing industries is notably high,too, and this very progressive country is a particularly attractive target forforeign direct investment from Asian countries, where Tunisia’s well-trained workforce is highly respected, as is the quick turnaround ‘just intime’ conditions for exports to Europe.

It has been those prosperous European markets that set the pace fortextile and clothing exports in both countries in recent years, and thesehappily seem to be firmly on the mend now. Throughout the crisis sales toNorth America sailed along relatively unperturbed, but in both nationalcases reviewed here these are much smaller in both volume and number.

The bottom line is that Morocco and Tunisia have certainly had a toughtime over the last three years, but the textile and clothing industries of bothcountries were well prepared for a downturn anyway – the earlier ending ofthe Multi Fibre Arrangement provided plenty of warning – and recoveryseems to be firmly established now.

*International Trade Statistics 2011, www.wto.org

FOCUS ON TUNISIA AND MOROCCO

Tunisia’s well-trained workforce is highly respected, as is the quick turnaround ‘justin time’ conditions for exports to Europe

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Tunisia is often seen as the economicpowerhouse of North Africa, repeatedlycoming top, or near to it, of the African

continent as a whole in terms of industrialcompetitiveness

A DELEGATION OF Egyptian textile industry insiders visited Swedenrecently to explore opportunities for bilateral cooperation in the field.

The visit is one of the initiatives launched by the SwedishEmbassy in Cairo and the Swedish Trade Council to enhance traderelations between the two countries, the embassy said in astatement.

Hammam Abdel Khalek, representative of the Arab DevelopmentCompany, said the group got to network with their Swedishcounterparts. “We made very interesting contacts with the Swedishside, which should lead to concrete business in the near future"

Speaking at the Egyptian-Swedish Textile Seminar in Gothenburg,Swedish Minister of Trade Ewa Björling said she saw great potentialfor bilateral trade relations.

“I believe international trade has an important role to play in thesechallenging times. For Sweden, free trade is cornerstone of ourforeign and trade policy,” she said.

“Swedish prosperity is built on international trade and the ability ofour companies to compete on global markets,” she added.

More than 40 experts and entrepreneurs from the Swedish andEgyptian textile sector gathered in Gothenburg to explore ways tocollaborate and open new a market for the Egyptian cotton andready-made garments, according to the statement.

Participants took field visits to Swedish department stores likeNordstan Shopping Center and Nordiska Kompaniet (NK), to get anidea of the standards of the local market. They visited Borås, thetextile hub of Sweden with half of the country’s textile production,where they met importers as well as fashion companies and textileorganizations.

"I was really impressed by the high capacity that the Egyptiancompanies show in the textile field," said Ingrid Lang, representativeof Prima Salto in Sweden.

Egypt textile delegation visits Sweden


TEXTILE NEWS


GHANA GOVERNMENT’S COMMITMENT torevive the cotton industry recently received a boostwhen three companies signed a business agreementwith the assurance to cotton farmers that their labourand investment would yield dividend.

The companies Textyles Ghana Limited (TSG),Volta Star Textiles Limited (VSTL) and WiencoGhana Limited (Wienco), by their businesspartnership, are expected to strengthen valueaddition to local raw materials and enhanceproduction in the textile industry.

By the agreement, TSG would be expected tobuy one million cotton lint produced by Ghanaianfarmers for VSTL to convert it into six million yardsof grey cloth.

Wienco, which had already been granted a zonein the Upper East Region in 2011 where it hadsupported 7,000 farmers both technically andfinancially, gave the assurance that it would doublethe acreage under cultivation to produce enoughcotton locally to feed the textile industry.

Speaking at a press conference organised inAccra by the Ministry of Trade and Industryrecently, Daniel Van Wassenhove, TechnicalDirector of TSG, expressed the hope that thepartnership would help to revive and sustain thetextile industry.

He said, “We believe that with this ‘Made inGhana’ approach, we really are adding value to theGhanaian society in creating jobs from the cotton

farmer through the grey cloth manufacturing up tothe dyeing and printing of African textiles.”

Wassenhove appealed to the Government to grantthe company a “deferment of Value Added Tax andNational Health Insurance Levy payment” to coverraw cotton purchase.

Evans Agyagbo, Acting Technical Director ofVSTL, said by virtue of the partnership, thecompany’s plant capacity utilisation would increasefrom the current 10 per cent to 30 per cent this year.

“The factory will engage additional hands in itscatchment area. There will be an improvement inVSTL’s financial position and the company’s

contribution to the Ghanaian economy will improvethrough payee tax mobilisation, VAT and SocialSecurity and National Insurance Trustcontributions,” he said.

Daniel Ruegg, CEO of Wienco, said the time hadcome to develop a new momentum in the textileindustry in Ghana, starting from the production ofcotton to the sale of textiles made in Ghana.

Hanna Tetteh, Minister of Trade and Industry,expressed the hope that the revival and sustenance ofthe cotton industry would soon make Ghana tobecome a net exporter of cotton.

The North-Eastern Zone has been allocated toWienco, in partnership with Geo-Cotton and it issaid to cover Kasina-Nankana, Tongo/Nabdam,Bawku West, Bawku Municipality, Garu-Tempani,Bongo and Builsa.

Others are West Mamprusi, East Mamprusi,Buunkpurugu, Gushiegu, Saboba, Chereponi andZubzugu.

Olam Ghana Limited had also been allocated theNorth-Western Zone, covering Sissala East, SissalaWest, Jirapa, Lambussie/Karni, Lawra, Nadowli, WaEast and Wa West Districts and Wa Municipality.

Plexus in partnership with Amajaro GhanaLimited was allocated the North-Central Zone,which comprised Savelugu, Tolon/Kumbungu,Bimbilla, Wullensi, Salaga, Bole, Damongo, Buipe,Sawla-Tuna-Kalba and Kpandai districts as well asYendi Municipality and the Tamale Metropolis.

Ghanaian textile majors ink pact to boost cotton cultivation

INDIA HAS URGED Kenya to reduce duties on imports of textiles,especially man-made fibres, from the country.

During a meeting with his Kenyan counterpart Chirauli Mwakwere inIndia recently, Indian Commerce and Industry Minister Anand Sharmasaid the high taxes imposed by Kenyan government affected bilateral tradebetween the two countries.

Kenya imposes high importtariffs on imports of man-made fibre textile items fromIndia. On yarn and fabrics, itimposes import duties of up to25 per cent, while on man-made fibre textiles the dutiesgo up to 50 per cent. Inaddition to this, Kenya alsoimposes 16 percent ValueAdded Tax (VAT) on imports.

Sharma, who is also theminister for textiles, invited Kenyan entrepreneurs to invest in India'stextiles sector.

He pointed out that up to 100 per cent foreign direct investment wasallowed in the textiles sector through the automatic route.

Sharma also stressed on the need for greater cooperation among thetrade bodies and business chambers of the two countries to facilitategrowth in textile trade.

India's textiles exports to Kenya rose to US$100 million in 2010 againstUS$77 million in the previous year.

THE USE OF biotech cotton seeds can give better yields than non-biotechhybrid varieties currently grown in Nigeria, according to an expert

Speaking at an open forum on agricultural biotechnology in Africa,Professor Bamidele Solomon, Director General of NationalBiotechnology Development Agency (NABDA) said the production ofcotton in Nigeria has declined to 120,000 tons per annum, which is lessthan half of over 300,000 tons per annum once produced in Nigeria.

Solomon suggested the use of biotechnology to increase cottonproduction and thereby to revamp the ailing Nigerian textile industry.

He stated that according to a latest report, field trails in India haveshown that Bt cotton hybrids give 80 per cent greater yield than non-biotech hybrids.

He said the use of Bt cotton seeds would enhance profits for cottongrowers and more farmers would be interested in growing the crop, whichwould in turn increase the availability of raw material to the Nigeriantextile industry.

In the 1970s and 1980s, there were more than 250 textilemanufacturing units in Nigeria, employing millions of people. Incomparison, there are less than 25 units at present which are operating ataround 40 per cent of their production capacity employing only a fewpeople, he stated.

Solomon said the Nigerian textile industry has been severely affectedowing to high operating cost and the fascination of Nigerians towardsimported textile materials, but abundant supply of raw material can reviveNigerian textile industry.

Biotechnology can increase cotton production inNigeria: Expert

India urges Kenya to slash duties on textile imports

The pact is expected to strengthen value addition tolocal raw materials and enhance production in thetextile industry

Indian Commerce Minister Anand Sharma with hisKenyan counterpart Chirauli Mwakwere


TEXTILE NEWS

BROTHER HAS LAUNCHED its new GT-3 Series of digital garment printers.The GT-3 Series will replace the Brother GT-541 and GT-782 models.

The GT-3 Series consists of an initial line-up of three modular modelsallowing buyers to upgrade as their business grows. This series of threemachines offers a CMYK-only printer, a CMYK with two white print heads,and a CMYK with four white print heads for higher speed and performance.

“Designed using over five years of customer feedback within Europe, USAand Australia with garment printers, the new GT-3 Series of digital garmentprinters delivers a suite of advanced features for all garment printing needs. It isfaster than competitor machines and will be competitively priced,” said HeinerRupperath, Product Manager for Industrial Printing Machines at Brother.Some of the major features listed out in the company press release include:• Up to 1200 dpi, allowing photographic quality printing• Up to eight print heads for faster throughput• One pass printing with both CMYK and white ink printing simultaneously

for higher productivity• USB memory stick compatibility to load designs without a computer• Ink cartridge system designed to provide consistent, high-quality printing• Compact size for versatility in many work environments, including

storefront• Simple user interface without the need for RIP software• Inks certified by Oeko-Tex Standard 100

“Brother integrates their core technology and know-how into the new GT-3Series of digital garment printers by manufacturing the printer and othercritical components like print heads, controller and the software all by

themselves. Coupled with the new genuine Brother® ink formulation, thisensures a fully integrated system compared to that of many competitors whoare merely ‘assemblers’ of garment printers. All in all, this makes the newBrother GT-3 series of digital garment printers Brother’s finest product line sofar,” Rupperath said

“We took part in six exhibitions in February alone and reached so manyinterested customers who all confirmed that Brother’s new garment printerseries would be a leading innovation in the field of digital direct to garmentprinting,” Rupperath added.

Brother launches new GT-3 series digital garment printers

BAYER CROPSCIENCE’S innovative LifeNet™mosquito nets are now available. The company hasreceived all necessary regulatory approvals for largescale production.

As a first step, the delivery of millions of LifeNet™mosquito nets is about to start in African countries tosupport their ongoing fight against malaria.Registrations have been received in Malawi,Namibia and Zambia with further registrationspending. LifeNet™ represents a longer-lasting, user-friendly alternative to currentlyavailable nets.

Malaria, still one of the world’s deadliestdiseases, has been eliminated in some parts ofthe world. Yet in certain parts of Sub-SaharanAfrica, malaria infections have increased overthe last three decades. According to the WHO,populations living in this region have thehighest risk of acquiring malaria.

Malaria significantly affects the quality oflife of communities and impacts localeconomies by reducing the income ofindividuals and families, thus slowingeconomic growth. Malaria also threatens food securityand rural development in already deprived regions, e.g.by causing losses in agricultural production.

“Our motivation was to set a new standard in bednetdurability and to thereby increase the impact ofmalaria control programs for the benefit of those inneed,” said Dr. Gunnar Riemann, Head of BayerCropScience s Environmental Science Division.

“LifeNet™ is the world s first long-lasting

polypropylene net, with deltamethrin incorporateddeep into the fiber providing a unique combination ofefficacy, strength and softness – a new tool in the fightagainst malaria,” added Nadim Mohr, CommercialOperations Manager at Bayer Environmental Scienceand responsible for Sub-Saharan Africa. “LifeNet™ is

the first net which is recognized by the World HealthOrganization to be effective even after 30 washes –providing more, effective nights of protection.”

In keeping with the company s commitment tosustainable development, LifeNet™ was created withan emphasis on ensuring a responsible social,economic and environmental impact. It supports thesustainable development of African countriesthreatened by this controllable disease.

Bayer’s innovative mosquito nets now available in Africa


LifeNet™ is said to be the world s first long-lasting polypropylene net– a newtool in the fight against malaria

THE AMBASSADORS OFMauritius and Zambia to the UShave made a joint appeal to the USCongress to extend the third-country fabric provision under theAfrican Growth Opportunities Act(AGOA) for the benefit of workersand businesses in the Africancountries as well as in the US.The passage of legislations S. 2007and H.R. 2493 would enable theUS to continue to receive high-quality textiles and apparels fromAfrica at competitive prices.The third-country fabric ruleallows AGOA beneficiarycountries to use yarns and fabricsfrom any country in themanufacturing of their textiles andclothing for export to the US atzero-duty.The provision has been the maindriver behind the growth of theAfrican apparel industry underAGOA. It makes up 95 per cent ofAGOA garment trade and hashelped African exporters to offertheir products to the US atcompetitive prices.

Mauritius, Zambiaseek AGOA textile

rule extension

Brother GT-3 series digital garment printer


THE TEXTILE PRINTING sector is still predominantly based onscreen printing, especially rotary screen printing for long production

runs. The machine technology for rotary screen printing has beendeveloped to a very high level, but in the actual screen technologydevelopments are still emerging.

At the last ITMA 2011 show in Barcelona, Stork Prints (Netherlands)introduced a new NovaScreen® type to the textile screen printing sector.This supplements the existing range of Nova screens which comprise Nova135, Nova 165 and Nova 195. The differences between these three types ofelectroformed nickel screens are given in Table 1.

Table 1 Details of NovaScreens®

(Stork Prints)

NovaScreen Type Thickness Open Area Hole size (micron) (micron)

Nova 135 120 22% 88Nova 165 115 19% 67Nova 195 115 16% 52

The relationship between open area/mesh count and screen thickness isclose because of the growth of nickel during the process of screenmanufacture. During screen manufacture, the nickel grows from themandrel—both to the top and the sides. Thus the open area decreases with ahigher mesh count and a higher screen thickness.

Stork Prints are experts at electroforming nickel for screen manufactureand have developed their screen making technology by steering the nickelgrowth mainly in the top direction. Thisensures that the dam shape in the screen staysthin and becomes streamlined. In this way,Stork Prints have been able to extend theboundaries in rotary screen printing bychanging the ratio between hole size/meshcount and screen thickness. This resulted in anew Nova screen, the NovaScreen 195-19%,which has an increased open area for a givenmesh size compared with previous Novascreens. The Nova Screen 195-19% has athickness of 115 microns, a hole size of 57microns and an increased open area, now of19 per cent.

Stork Prints assert that the novel design ofthis NovaScreen 195-19% allows bettercontrol of the transfer of the print paste to thefabric. This specific screen design allows thepaste flows of adjacent holes to join togetherto achieve an even spread of paste on thefabric. The NovaScreen 195-19% can beutilised to keep the print paste on the surfaceof the fabric, as required for pigment printing,by applying low shear stress inside the screen.In addition, by appropriate control of the printparameters it is also possible to carry out

penetrative printing, as required for printing reactive dyestuffs.The printability using the 19 per cent open area NovaScreen 195 is

improved and less printing pressure is required to achieve a good coverageof the fabric. Being able to control the print formation at the fabric surfaceis an advantage for pigment printing because, by avoiding penetration intothe fabric, a higher colour yield and a softer handle may be attained. Awider hole size ensures that in reactive printing complete print-through canbe achieved via a high paste volume. The NovaScreen 165-19%, which hasa hole size of 67 microns compared with 52 microns for the NovaScreen165-16%, has a higher open area and can deliver really deep and full shadesbecause of the high paste volume delivered.

In a separate development, Stork Prints introduced another new screentype, namely the RM random mesh design. While the hole size is 79microns, as in the existing Stork Prints PentaScreen 125, and the number ofholes comparable to the PentaScreen 125, the hole shapes are now morestreamlined. This results in a slightly higher paste flow and delivery givinga significantly improved printability.

A significant feature of the new Random Raster screen (RR125) is theability to avoid moiré effects in screen printing. Moiré can occur when ascreen regular mesh structure and a line raster’s grid structure meet. Thetwo regular structures give rise to interference effects which then leads tothe appearance of a new, third pattern, typically a moiré effect oftenobserved as a diagonal striping pattern.

The new Random Raster screen avoids moiré effects because the holesare not arranged in straight lines as in conventional screens. In the Random

TEXTILE PRINTING


Advancements in screenand digital printing

J-Next Subly JXS-65 dye sublimation digitalinks based on cyan, magenta, yellow andabsolute black are suitable for print

S03 AFTEX 2 2012_calendar.qxd 22/05/2012 10:23

Raster screen, the position of each hole is slightly out of line which ensuresthat the regularity is disrupted, avoiding the appearance of the third (moiré)pattern. The new RR125 screen from Stork Prints also avoids the problemsof rosette patterns formed where circles of raster dots are arranged around acentre dot. This rosette pattern effect disturbs geometrical raster designstypically when imaging a weave or a bark structure. The higher paste flowin the RR125 screen leads to smoother dots and gives softer half-toneimpressions as well as more contrast in raster areas which provides a morerelief-like appearance in geometrical raster patterns.

Major developmentsThe digital printing area continues to develop at a considerable rate.

Great interest was shown at ITMA 2011 in the latest developmentsexhibited in Hall 7 by textile printers from India, Brazil and Turkey. China,of course, dominates the global total traditional textile printing market ofaround 27 billion sqm, with 30 per cent of the production. India (17.5 percent), other Asian countries (18.8 per cent), Americas (12.9 per cent) and

Europe, Russia, CIS countries (11.1 per cent). At present, Middle East andAfrican countries only produce some 9.7 per cent of the traditional textileprinting market, and moving into digital printing to exploit printopportunities outside the dominant rotary screen printing area could proveto be a shrewd move for many textile printers in these regions.

The major developments in digital ink jet printing are based uponindustrial piezo print heads that are making a high print production ratepossible. In addition, the price of printing inks has come down making itmore feasible for digital printing to match the cost per square metre ofscreen printing for small to medium production runs.

There are now a number of high speed print heads for inkjet printing oftextiles. Some of the high speed digital printers featured at ITMA 2011include the Hangzhou Honghua Vega 600-16, La Meccanica Qualijet K16,MS Italy JP Series and LaRIO, Reggiani ReNOIR EVO and the StorkPrints Sphene 24.

However, there are also many other print heads available on other highspeed digital printers. These include the Durst Kappa 180 which uses the

TEXTILE PRINTING


Stork MS LaRIO machineNew digital printingmachines rely on

advanced print headtechnology coupled

with developments inink formulations to

control the dotproduced. For high

digital printing speeds,the inkjet head firing

frequency must behigh. This has led to

changes in inkformulations becausethe new generation ofinks now are based ona higher ink viscosity

The RAILS to your SUCCESS

Osthoff-Senge Gmbh & Co. KgEssener Strasse 62, D-42327 Wuppertal Phone: +49 202 74 847 0 Fax: +49 202 74 847 99 email: [email protected] www.osthoff-senge.com


Ricoh Gen 4 head, Konica Minolta NassengerPro 1000 (KM 1024 head), Robustelli MonnaLisa EVO (Epson DX5 head) and the ZimmerColaris (Seiko 508GS head). XenniaTechnologies also have their Osiris and Emeraldprinters while Mimaki also has its TX 600-1800concept machine.

These new digital printing machines rely onadvanced print head technology coupled withdevelopments in ink formulations to control thedot produced. For high digital printing speeds,the inkjet head firing frequency must be high.This has led to changes in ink formulationsbecause the new generation of inks now arebased on a higher ink viscosity. In the recentpast, ink viscosities have increased from 3-5mPas to 7-15mPas. This increase in inkviscosity has been achieved by the addition ofglycols to achieve 10-15mPas but has had animportant side effect. Essentially, the relativeamounts of colorants in the ink formulation havebeen decreased with a negative impact on printquality. There is thus a reduction in the image-colour vibrancy coupled with poor dryingbehaviour of the inks into the substrates as aconsequence of the heavy glycol content.

To overcome these disadvantages, SawgrassTechnologies has developed and patented novelwater-based inks for high speed inkjet printingconditions. The Sawgrass inks under the brandname RMI (Rheological Modified Inks) ensurehigh speed digital printing under extreme firingfrequencies, delivering higher colour vibrancyand controlled drying behaviour of the inks intothe substrates. This has been achieved byincorporating different chemical families termed

RM which are compatible with the original inksand which change the rheological behaviour ofthe inks under high shear environments.

Newtonian rheologyCurrent ink formulations exhibit Newtonian

rheology, where viscosity remains constantirrespective of the shear rate. However SawgrassTechnologies RM inks exhibit Non-NewtonianPseudoplastic behaviour. Thus the ink viscositydecreases with increase in the shear rate, whichis called shear-thinning effect. As a result of thisphenomenon, the RMI ink fluid forms coaxialcylindrical layers under high shear conditionse.g. under high frequency firing of the inkjet. Inthis way, there is a greater ability to control dotformation.

The innovative Sawgrass Technologies’water-based RMI inks typically contain 20-40per cent less glycols together with up to 80 percent more colorants than current inks. Thisprovides improved print quality in terms ofcolour vibrancy and sharpness while theenhanced drying behaviour helps to increaseprinting speed and facilitate the whole of theprinting operation.

Jaysynth (India) have introduced bothmedium and high viscosity DiGiTex acid inks aswell as pigment inks for wide-format printing.Their new CMYK + white pigment inks of lowand of high viscosity for DTG (direct togarment) printing were launched at the recentFESPA digital show in Hamburg, Germany.

J-Teck 3 Srl have introduced its new J-NextSubly JXS-65 inks which are regarded as a newconcept digital ink range that features greater

stability of the ink molecule. These new inks areclaimed to be capable of meeting theconfiguration requirements for all the piezoprinters used for dye sublimation end uses. J-Next Subly JXS-65 dye sublimation digital inksbased on cyan, magenta, yellow and absoluteblack are suitable for printing onto any kind ofcoated paper for subsequent transfer to polyesterand mixed polyester fabrics for applications suchas sportswear, flags and banners.

MS Italy and Stork Prints have recentlyannounced an agreement to co-operate on thedevelopment and production of digital inkjetprinting systems. Thus Stork will represent MSmachinery internationally which includes theMS JP Series and the LaRIO machines, as wellas marketing its own high production machineswhich include the Stork Sphene.

Stork Prints have developed the Quasar inkrange for the MS LaRIO machine which canprint at 20-30 linear metres per minute. TheQuasar reactive and acid inks are based onStork’s own single pass digital printingtechnology developed for the DSI machine andincludes patented techniques to prevent striping.Quasar ReAcid ink is currently in use on the firstMS LaRIO prototype machine which wasinstalled in a Como silk printing mill operated byTintseka Ink. Stork have also expanded theirNebula acid ink range for Kyocera print heads byintroducing a new Deep Black reactive ink whichis claimed to be more effective than the acidalternative. Stork’s Nebula range of inks iscompatible with the Stork Sphene digital printeras well as with the Reggiani ReNOIR, MS JP6and MS JPK series of machines.

TEXTILE PRINTING


Xennia Technology's Osiris highspeed digital printing system


COLORANTS ET PRODUITS CHIMIQUES

TEXTILES AFRIQUE ET MOYEN ORIENT 2EME EDITION/2012 13

par Ian Holme

Teinture réussie du premier coupgrâce à des aides à la surveillancedes bains de teinture

LES ATELIERS DE teinture en généralsont sous pression, car les détaillants

exigent de plus en plus des livraisonsrapides et fréquentes de lots répétés detissu teinté à la même teinte. Les détaillantsutilisent les informations des points de venteélectroniques (EPOS) pour déterminerquels vêtements se vendent plusrapidement, ce qui leur permet de préciserles tailles, les modèles et les couleurscorrespondant à la demande desconsommateurs.

La pression sur la Grande Rue est forteactuellement à cause de la rudeconcurrence entre détaillants après lapériode des achats de Noël. L'effet desrabais visant à attirer les consommateurs aexercé une pression vers le bas sur leniveau des actions et, de ce fait, la livraisonrapide de vêtements de styles, modèles etcouleurs qui se vendent est importante pourles détaillants qui doivent optimiser leursventes en cette période critique pour lemarché. L'optimisation des ventes et ladiminution du niveau des stocks, couplées àla réduction du fonds de roulement et desdémarques de vêtements, tout cela peutaugmenter la rentabilité et la compétitivitéglobale des détaillants.

Les ateliers de teinture de textilespeuvent gagner des avantagesconcurrentiels s'ils réussissent à appliquer àleur production le principe du "Right-First-Time" (RFT), c'est-à-dire "réussi du premiercoup". La teinture RFT est reconnue commela meilleure approche pour obtenir desdélais courts en teinture et, qui plus est, lateinture RTF est l'approche la plus durablede la teinture classique, car elle minimise laconsommation de ressources, à savoir eau,énergie, colorants et produits chimiques. Parailleurs, elle réduit également le volume deseaux usées à évacuer ainsi que le coup detraitement de ces eaux usées. Comme lateinture et la finition des textiles constituentun secteur de services de l'industrie textile,il s'ensuit que la teinture RTF fournit un plusgrand service aux clients, c'est-à-dire auxdétaillants, grâce aux délais plus courts,ainsi qu'une plus grande homogénéité entermes de reproductibilité des teintes dansdes lots répétés de la même couleur.

La teinture RFT dans les ateliers deteinture de textiles a un effet spectaculairesur l'efficacité de la production, la capacitéde production et, partant de là, sur lescalendriers de livraison. En outre, la teintureRFT génère un plus gros chiffre d'affaires et

augmente la rentabilité. La teinture àl'aveugle, c'est-à-dire la teinture enproduction sans définir de teinte/de recettedans le laboratoire de la teinturerie, n'estplus pratiquée dans de nombreuxétablissements. En revanche, si lateinte/recette est établie lors de la premièreteinture en production, alors une teintureRFT peut généralement être réalisée surdes lots répétés, à condition que l'aptitude àla teinture des fibres textiles reste la mêmeque dans le premier lot.

La rentabilité des ateliers de teinturesouffre inévitablement si un ou plusieursajouts de nuance doivent être faits, tandisque la décoloration et la re-teinture d'un lotexerce un impact négatif avec un effeténorme sur la rentabilité. Les teinturiers dutextile doivent donc chercher avant tout àéviter les ajouts, etc., en sélectionnantd'emblée les colorants, les produitschimiques et les produits auxiliairesappropriés, et contrôler étroitement leprocessus de teinture au cours de laproduction. Les ateliers de teinture qui fontpartie d'un groupe vertical sont souventmieux placés pour appliquer la teinture RFTet la teinture à l'aveugle du fait d'un meilleurcontrôle de l'aptitude à la teinture destissus. Les ateliers de teinture à lacommission doivent faire face à une plusgrande variation dans l'aptitude à la teinturedes tissus qui leur sont envoyés pourteinture.

La teinture implique trois approchesprincipales qui contribuent à la teinture enproduction, à savoir :• la normalisation des colorants ;• la reproductibilité des nuances, et• des processus de teinture robustes.

Tous les fabricants de colorants doiventinvestir dans des procédures denormalisation de la teinture, et les grandsfabricants de colorants comme Clariant,Dohmen, DyStar et Huntsman doiventnormaliser les nuances, le pouvoir colorantet la teneur en humidité, ainsi que les seuilsd'impuretés, etc. Certains colorants,comme les colorants par dispersion Dianix

Le système Smart Liqluor de Werner Mathis.



14 TEXTILES AFRIQUE ET MOYEN ORIENT 2EME EDITION/2012

AM de DyStar, par exemple, sont fabriquésavec le tout dernier degré de précision, àsavoir ±1,5 % en pouvoir colorant / DE 0.2CMC 2:1. Ces spécifications de productionexigeantes s'appliquent aux Dianix AMClassics, aux spécialités Dianix AM et auxcolorants Dianix AM-SLR de DyStar pourassurer une coloration contrôlée. Lescolorants Dianix AM offrent également unebonne reproductibilité des teintes grâce àleur grande stabilité au pH et grâce à unetechnologie de normalisation de pointe. Lanormalisation des colorants est un facteuressentiel pour le transfert des recettes deteinture du laboratoire à la teinture enproduction en utilisant l'approche deteinture RFT.

Un contrôle étroit de la températureatmosphérique et du taux d'humidité dansles ateliers de teinture peut être un facteurpuissant pour assurer une pondérationcohérente des colorants, des auxiliaires etdes produits chimiques. Des équipementsrobotisés pour la pesée avec contrôleélectronique automatisé des colorants enpoudre sont disponibles chez de nombreuxconstructeurs tels que Color Service, Laweret Tecnorama. La distribution automatiséede haute précision des produits liquides estégalement disponible auprès de nombreuxconstructeurs.

Une caractéristique très importante del'approche de teinture RFT est la sélectionet l'utilisation de colorants compatibles,c'est-à-dire de colorants qui ont des courbesd'épuisement / temporelles très similaires.De cette façon, les mélangestrichromatiques de colorants s'épuiseront àla même vitesse, créant la teinte requise"sur ton". Cela est préférable à une création"hors ton" de la couleur. Les principauxfabricants de colorants ont épuré leursgammes de colorants pour offrir aux ateliersde teinture des trichromats optimisés ainsique des procédures d'applicationoptimisées pour teinture par épuisement,foulardage vapeur, foulardage-séchagethermofix ou foulardage-stockage.

Une étape importante vers la teintureRFT consiste à comprendre la façon dontles colorants sélectionnés s'épuisent sur lesfibres. De ce point de vue, l'introduction dusystème de surveillance des bains deteinture Smart Liquor de Werner Mathis AG(Oberhasli/Zürich, Suisse) offre auxteinturiers du textile la possibilité desurveiller, d'analyser et d'optimiser à la foisles processus d'épuisement et de teinture àla continu. Le système de surveillance desbains de teinture Smart Liquor de Mathis estun système évolué de pointe qui intègre unspectrophotomètre à part entière avecplusieurs accessoires pour des mesures en

ligne continues et individuelles hors ligne.Ce système sophistiqué de mesure du bainde teinture est géré par un puissantprogiciel qui offre la possibilité de mesurersimultanément jusqu'à six colorants dans lebain de teinture. De plus, ce système SmartLiquor de Mathis peut, en principe, être reliéà toute machine de teinture utilisée dans lelaboratoire ou en production.

Le système Smart Liquor de Mathis a étéprésenté à ITMA 2003 à Birmingham,Royaume-Uni, et depuis lors, sondéveloppement extensif a été poursuivi. Lesnombreux avantages de ce systèmed'analyse avancé des bains de teinture ontété reconnus dans le monde entier et cesystème est utilisé dans 13 pays par desateliers de teinture et par des fabricants etorganismes de recherche auxiliaires.

Le système Smart Liquor de Mathis a étéconçu pour fonctionner avec toutes lesprincipales catégories de colorants (réactifs,par dispersion, acides, au complexemétallique, directs, etc.) et peut être relié àtoute machine de teinture, que ce soit enlaboratoire ou en production, tant qu'il y a dela liqueur en circulation (comme en teinturepar épuisement) ou une liqueur de foulardage(par exemple, teinture à la continu).

Le système de mesure intégré du pH etde la conductivité utilise un instrument àdouble canal avec une méthoded'étalonnage multi-point intégrée. Il intègrereconnaissance automatique de tampon ettest par électrodes, conjointement avec unecorrection linéaire et non linéaire de latempérature. Le logiciel SmartMachinefournit des algorithmes pour l'optimisation

des processus, permettant à chaquemachine de teinture et recette de teinture decalculer les gradients optimums detempérature et de dosage ainsi que lestemps de maintien.

Une fonction importante, notamment pourles teintures par dispersion des fibres depolyester, est le module logiciel qui calculele "coefficient de solubilité du colorant".C'est le rapport du pigment de colorationinsoluble au colorant dissout dans lesconditions de teinture en cours. Cela permetune analyse détaillée à la fois ducomportement du colorant par dispersion etde l'influence des produits auxiliaires sur lateinture. Cela permet aussi de déterminer àquel moment les colorants commencent àse diffuser dans la fibre.

Une autre caractéristique importante dusystème Smart Liquor de Mathis est lelogiciel SmartRinse pour optimiser leprocessus de rinçage après teintures parépuisement des fibres cellulosiques avecles colorants réactifs. Ce logiciel utilise unmodèle physico-chimique pour le calcul etincorpore un procédé d'optimisation quipermet au teinturier de sélectionner leprocessus spécifique à la recette le moinscher. Le système Smart Liquor de Mathisutilise également un modèle logicielSmartPad-Liquor software qui est intégrédans SmartLiquor et qui élimine les effetsde queutage avec les colorants réactifs.Cela est particulièrement adapté pour lesprocessus par lots de foulage à froid et deteinture avec contrôle électronique. Lelogiciel SmartManager permet à l'utilisateurde documenter et de donner la priorité aux

Le système Optilab deCallebaut de Blicquy.


ORDERS FOR ITALIAN textile machinery manufacturers were onthe rise again during the last quarter of 2011 after two quarters offall down. The results were gathered by the quarterly surveyconducted by ACIMIT, the Association of Italian textile machinerymanufacturers.

Overall orders for the period fromOctober to December 2011 rose up28 per cent over the previousquarter, at a value of 90.2 points.The most significant increaseregarded orders in foreign markets(+32 per cent), whereas on thedomestic market orders were up15per cent.

Sandro Salmoiraghi, President of ACIMIT, said, “Despite theeconomic crisis, our sector is showing signs of a recovery in salesafter two negative quarters.”

“We’re still far from the levels achieved in 2010,” commentsSandro Salmoiraghi, President of ACIMIT, “but this recovery,

compared to the mid months of 2011, confirms the dynamic natureof our manufacturers.”

“Despite the current difficult conditions in global markets,”Salmoiraghi says “our manufacturers have managed to catch the

business opportunities available inmajor foreign markets, especiallyChina, Turkey and India, as well asthe United States and Brazil.”

The situation on the domesticmarket remains more difficult toresolve, however. The revival ininvestments recorded over the pastthree months is certainly a positive

sign, but the gap remains large with current trends abroad.The expectations of Italian machinery manufacturers for the first

quarter of 2012 remain cautious, above all regarding the domesticmarket. “Economic uncertainty, combined with increased difficultiesdue to the danger of a credit crunch, are stopping investments ofour Italian customers,” ACIMIT’s President said.



étapes d'optimisation, et offre également lacapacité de générer des rapports à l'aide demodèles prédéfinis.

L'expérience accumulée des utilisateursde ce système évolué d'analyse des bainsde teinture a démontré des augmentationsde la productivité de 20 à 25 % en utilisantles machines de teinture existantes, avec deplus hauts niveaux de production RFT.D'autres avantages sont notamment desréductions de coûts obtenues via l'analysedes courbes d'épuisement et de lavage àfond qui ont permis de réduire les dépensesen colorants et de faire des économiesd'eau et d'énergie.

Un autre système d'optimisation qui a étéexposé à ITMA 2011 est le système Optilabde Callebaut de Blicquy (Tourcoing, France).Cet équipement de teinture de laboratoirepermet de visualiser le comportement descolorants dans un processus de teinture parépuisement en fonction des conditions deteinture physiques et chimiques. Quatresolutions sont proposées, à savoir :• Optilab "Full" (complet),• Optilab avec ajout de solide,• Optilab avec ajout de liquide,• Optilab "Light" (sans ajout de solide ni de

liquide).

La visualisation à l'écran des courbesd'épuisement du colorant permet àl'utilisateur de déterminer la vitesse etl'étendue de l'épuisement du colorant pourune teinture individuelle dans un mélangede colorant, ainsi que la compatibilité descolorants utilisés dans un trichromat. Enoutre, l'influence de produits auxiliaires telsque les agents égalisants sur la vitessed'épuisement et le temps de migration et de

fixation peuvent tous deux être mesurés. Lesystème de laboratoire Optilab peut aussiservir à évaluer l'efficacité du rinçage et dusavonnage.

Adaptive Control Solutions Ltd (Shipley,Royaume-Uni) sont des spécialistes enlogiciel et en contrôle des processus quiproposent des systèmes de régulation desmachines de teinture, allant de régulateurspour machine individuelle à la régulation deplusieurs machines. Ces systèmes utilisent latechnologie des écrans tactiles et unepuissante commande logicielle qui permetaux teinturiers de contrôler et de surveillerrapidement chaque machine. Le systèmepropose un calendrier de travail local entemps réel, une liste complète d'étapesd'exécution, une courbe "live" (en direct), desicônes de machine animées et des courbesd'historique qui sont mémorisées pouranalyse future. L'intégration est simple, avecdes liens réseau avec Excel, Access, desréseaux professionnels et avec le systèmecentralisé de commande Adaptive PlantExplorer. Le système de commande multi-machine permet aux utilisateurs de gérer lesmachines de teintures séparément ou encombinaison multiple pour une efficacité etune souplesse maximale de la production.

Le système de commande centraliséAdaptive Plant Explorer enregistre lesinformations de commande et desurveillance provenant de toutl'établissement et les enregistre dans unebase de données Microsoft SQL Serverstandard. Une nouvelle fonction de cesystème de commande centralisé évolué estla capacité de télécharger leur applicationgratuite Plant Explorer. Les directeurs /superviseurs qui peuvent être en

déplacement ont ainsi la possibilité de seconnecter au système Wifi de l'usine oud'établir une connexion VPN qui les relieraen ligne aux mêmes écrans sur la copie PCde bureau de Plant Explorer. Cela permet desuivre simplement l'évolution d'un lot àtravers l'usine de teinture.

Un nouveau système de surveillance enligne pour la coloration en indigo a étéprésenté à ITMA 2011. Il a été développéconjointement par DyStar ColoursDeutschland GmbH, Frankfurt (Allemagne),Becatron AG, Müllheim (Suisse) etLilienwei GmbH, Remshalden (Allemagne).Basé sur une nouvelle technologie, cesystème novateur de surveillance en ligneIndiLine permet d'analyser et de surveiller àl'aide d'un dispositif simple tous lesparamètres importants. Ainsi, desparamètres de processus critiques tels que :• concentration d'indigo,• concentration de rongeant,• température,• concentration d'électrolyte,• alcalinité / valeur pH, et• potentiel redox

peuvent être surveillés rapidement,permettant un contrôle rentable de cesparamètres importants du bain de teinture.Le nouveau système intègre un étalonnageautomatique, est autonettoyant, et exclut lesinexactitudes causées par la contaminationde la teinture par le soufre. De touteévidence, un tel processus de surveillanceet de contrôle doit être une étape importantevers la réalisation de niveaux supérieurs deproduction RFT dans la teinture indigo,couplée à d'autres améliorations de laqualité de la teinture.

Italian textile machinery sector back on the rise

The most significant increaseregarded orders in foreign markets


THE EXTENT TO which a textile material has a sound-absorbing effectand which are the noises that cause wind flow, can now be investigatedusing acoustic test apparatus at the Hohenstein Institute in Bönnigheim.

Hohenstein scientists in the team working with Dr. Jan Beringer, inconjunction with Hochschule Reutlingen and Rökona Textilwerk GmbH inTübingen, have developed innovative test methods to investigate theacoustic and aeroacoustic properties of textile materials.

Noise now pervades all parts of our everyday lives and is becoming anincreasing source of stress. In addition to the negative effects on thenervous system, studies have shown that it diminishes concentrationability by about 20-30 per ,cent, reduces work performance, increasesaccident risks and above all decreases feelings of comfort. Even soundsabove 40 decibels corresponding approximately to soft radio music canproduce these negative effects.

Therefore sound-absorbing textile materials are gaining popularity inthe many sectors where sounds are perceived as unpleasant anddisruptive. It is primarily in the interior design and automotive sectorswhere specifically adapted materials are used to minimise and optimisenoises leading to a rise in acoustic comfort.

For instance, sound-absorbing ceilings, partitions, floors and furnituresurfaces in public facilities, open-plan offices and exhibition halls as wellas technical textiles in vehicle interior linings are all effective measures tocounter acoustic disturbances.

During the testing process at the Hohenstein Institute, different textilematerials are investigated with the acoustic measuring device. The fabric to be tested is clamped in a sample holder between a loud speaker and ameasuring microphone. One great benefit here is the small sample sizeas fabric samples measuring only 10 x 10 cm are large enough.Measurements are taken within a frequency spectrum of 200 – 20,000 Hzto ascertain the extent (decibels) to which the fabric attenuates/dampensthe signal sent by the loudspeaker.

The aeroacoustic test determines the frequency spectra of the oftendisturbing background noise of textile air flow. The Hohenstein Institutetest apparatus is able to investigate virtually all samples ranging fromsmall laboratory samples up to complete components and can simulatewind speeds of up to 140 km/h.

The textile or component is exposed to air flow and a specialmeasurement microphone is then used to record the noise caused by theair flow. This noise is then subject to computer analysis and thecorresponding frequencies of the noise are determined. These resultingcomparative figures then enable materials to be optimised for the mostdiverse of uses.

As well as capturing the aeroacoustic properties of textile fabrics, locally-triggered causes of air flow noises can also be determined. This knowledgecan then be used to optimise textiles and components even more.

TEXTILE NEWS


New test methods to investigate acoustic properties of textile materials

OUTPUT OF GLOBAL yarn production increased in Q4/2011 as a result ofhigher output in Asia–especially in China–and Europe, and in spite of lowerproduction in North and South America. Also year-on-year global yarnproduction was up due to higher output in Asia and in spite of lower outputin Europe, South and North America.

Global fabric production rose in the fourth quarter with Asia andEurope recording higher output, while North and South Americaregistered a reduction. Compared to last year’s fourth quarter globalfabric output decreased with all regions suffering declines.

Global yarn stocks were slightly higher in Q4/2011 compared withthe previous one which was especially due to higher stocks in Europeand South America, while stocks in Asia fell. Year-on-year global yarninventories increased as a result of higher stocks in all regions.

In comparison to the previous quarter fabric stocks were up inEurope and South America in the 4th quarter, but down in Asia andNorth America.

On an annual basis fabric stocks soared in South America withweaker increases recorded in North America and Asia, whereas stocksdecreased slightly in Europe. Yarn and fabric orders fell in Q4/2011 inBrazil both compared to the previous and last year’s quarter. Europe’syarn order increased in comparison to the previous quarter but fell on ayearly basis. Fabric orders on the other hand fell slightly compared tothe previous one and also year-on-year.

The estimates for global yarn and fabric production in the firstquarter of 2012 compared to the last quarter of 2011 are negative. As faras yarn production is concerned this is mainly due to lower output in

Asia in general and China in particular, whereas output is estimated toincrease in North and South America with Europe remainingunchanged. In global fabric production both Asia and Europe areexpecting lower output in the first quarter, whereas South America isestimating an increased production level. The general outlook for thesecond quarter 2012 is positive both for global yarn and fabricproduction.

In comparison with the previous quarter, world yarn productionincreased in Q4/2011 by +6.5 per cent. While North and South Americarecorded a drop of -16.4 per cent and -1.5 per cent, respectively, Europeand Asia recorded increases of +14.7 per cent and +7.0 per cent,respectively. Year-on-year global yarn production rose by +8.5 per centdue to higher output in Asia (+9.8 per cent), and despite lower outputlevels in North America (-20.4 per cent), Europe (-1.4 per cent) andSouth America (-0.4per cent).

Compared with the previous quarter global fabric productionincreased in Q4/2011 by +0.7 per cent. Fabric production rose inEurope and Asia by +9.0 per cent and +1.9 per cent, respectively, butfell in South and North America by -18.2 per cent and -8.3 per cent,respectively. In comparison to last year’s 4th quarter global fabricproduction was down by -1.8 per cent. In all regions production wasdown, in South America by -7.5 per cent, in North America by -2.2 percent, in Europe by -1.9 per cent and in Asia by -1.3 per cent.

Yarn inventories rose only slightly worldwide by +0.4 per cent inQ4/2011 while fabric inventories soared by +1.5 per cent as comparedto the previous one.

Global yarn and fabric production outlook positive for Q2


DESPITE THE CURRENT global economicslowdown, leading textile machinery

manufacturers around the world are still attracted toprospects offered by the world’s largest textileproducer— China. This can be seen from theoverwhelming response received by the combinedtextile machinery show, ITMA ASIA + CITME2012, which will be held at the Shanghai NewInternational Expo Centre from 12 to 16 June 2012.

The combined show is owned by CEMATEXand its Chinese partners— the Sub-Council ofTextile Industry, CCPIT (CCPIT-Tex), ChinaTextile Machinery Association (CTMA) and ChinaInternational Exhibition Centre Group Corporation(CIEC).

Stephen Combes, President of CEMATEX, said,“Response to this year's combined show is beyondour expectations. The strong demand for spaceattests to the effectiveness and popularity of thecombined show as well as the resilience of thetextile and textile machinery industry.”

“Having held two successful presentations of theITMA ASIA + CITME combined show in 2008 and2010, we are confident that the upcomingexhibition will create enhanced and new marketingand networking opportunities for both Chinese andinternational textile and textile machinery

manufacturers, especially those offering eco-friendly solutions.”

With the additional 6,000 square metres ofexhibition space, the show will now gross over132,000 sqm, 30 per cent larger than the previousevent in 2010. More than 1,230 exhibitors from 27countries and regions will take part.

The mega expo is expected to feature some1,300 local and international textile machinerymakers who will showcase cutting-edge solutions,as well as sustainability and energy efficientmachinery and processes. Chinese exhibitors makeup the biggest country group, booking around 50per cent of the total exhibition space. BesidesChina, the top participating countries in terms ofspace applications are Germany, Italy, Japan andSwitzerland.

Sector-wise, spinning machinery forms thelargest sector. This is followed by knitting, dyeingand finishing, weaving and winding.

Wang Shutian, President of CTMA, said, “AsChina's textile industry continues itstransformation, the demand for advancedmachinery and technology is on the rise. This isalso reflected in the current uptrend in textilemachinery trade.”

The latest statistics from China Customs reveal

that China's textile machinery foreign traderegistered a year-on-year growth of 25.6 per cent toreach US$7.6 billion in 2011; of this amount,exports contributed US$2.25 billion while importschalked up US$5.36 billion.

According to Global Industry Analysts, Inc.(GIA), the global market for textile machinery isprojected to reach US$20.75 billion by 2015. TheAsia Pacific region is expected to dominate as thesingle largest market, as local governments play apivotal role in developing initiatives to boost textilemachinery trade and bolster sales and investments.

The Asian region is forecast to emerge by 2015as one of the fastest growing markets, spurred on bysuch initiatives. In China, for example, one of thepriorities under the government’s 12th Five-YearPlan period (2011-2015) is to raise thecraftsmanship, techniques and equipment to reachthe international level for textile and other industrysectors.

Besides the development and application ofhigh-technology fibres, energy-saving, emission-reduction and environment-friendly technologieswill also be the focus for China’s textile industry inthe coming years.

The combined show has not only promotedtextile machinery technology and machinery

The mega expo is said to be the unrivalled marketing platform for global textile machinery manufacturerstapping into the vibrant China market


Stage set for ITMAASIA + CITME 2012

S04 AFTEX 2 2012 Apparel_calendar.qxd 22/05/2012 10:20

effectively in Asia but, more importantly, it hasstrengthened cooperation between internationaltextile and textile machinery industries.

In addition, as a “one-stop shop” for the textileindustry, the integration of the two shows hasreduced participation costs for exhibitors seekingopportunities in China’s booming textile market.

The previous edition in 2010 attracted 1,171exhibiting companies. The exhibition covered103,500 square metres, and the five-day showreceived more than 82,000 professional visitorsfrom 99 different countries and regions.

Wang Shutian said, “The combined show hasbeen highly recognised by leading textile andtextile machinery industry players as it offersthem a cost-effective showcase for their products

and services in Asia. With the recovery of theworld economy and the beginning of China’s 12thFive-Year Plan, we are confident that thecombined show will score another success.”

The ITMF‘s International Textile MachineryShipment Statistics show that investments, whichwere reduced during the 2008 crisis, have pickedup significantly. In fact, I’ve been told that anumber of machinery manufacturers have fullorder books, with delivery times, in some cases,of up to two years”.

ITMF statistics point to buoyant demand fortextile machinery in the past decade. Althoughimported textile machinery investments fell backin 2008 and 2009 after an excellent performancein 2007, they have started to register an upward

trend since last year. Machinery shipmentfigures for 2011 released recently reveal thatsubstantial investments have been made insectors such as short-staple spindles, open-endrotors, texturing spindles, shuttle-less looms,circular knitting machines and electronic flatknitting machines.

The global market for textile machinery isprojected to reach US$22.9 billion by the year2017. Major factors driving growth in thetextile machinery market include economicrecovery post recession, rising demand fornonwoven disposable textile products,increasing demand from emerging regions,especially Asia-Pacific, and rising demand forenvironmentally friendly fibers.

ITMA ASIA + CITME 2012 PREVIEW


RIETER WILL DEMONSTRATE its competence across the entirespinning process and present all the four of its end spinning systems liveon the stand (Hall W2, Booth No. A10).

For the upstream fiber and spinning plant preparation, Rieternow offers 1,000 mm cans throughout, thereby ensuring higherefficiency and convenience in the spinning plant. “Multimediapresentations will convey to visitors a striking impression of theadvantages and features of the new Rieter E 80 combing flagship,”a company official said.

“What the benefits and characteristics of the four spinningsystems mean for downstream processing can be experienced byvisitors in the Technology Corner. End products and fabric samples ofthe 4 Rieter yarns will be available.”

The know-how relating to financing, spinning mill planning, use ofthe right technological elements, selection of the correct spinningprocess as well as many other factors is necessary to achievesuccess in the operation of a spinning plant. Rieter will showcase allthis expertise at the event.

The new double-sided J 20 air-jet spinning machine (operational)will be introduced for the first time to the Asian market at the expo.

The latest retrofits and high-quality original spare parts will also bepresented by Rieter’s spare parts experts.

Rieter to showcase its innovative spinning systems at ITMA Asia

AT THE ITMA Asia, Oerlikon Textile will exhibitits broad product portfolio in the manmade fiber,natural fiber and textile components business.

Five leading brands will also exhibit thefollowing products under the umbrella of OerlikonTextile at the show (booth H01/F02 in hall W2).

Show highlights include the Autocoro 8 rotorspinning machine, new solutions for ring spinningand winding systems, the FDY take-up windingmachine WINGS, twisting and embroiderysolutions and manifold premium components.

“Oerlikon Textile will present technologysolutions especially for the requirements of theAsian market with a focus on a sustainable textileproduction,”said Clement Woon, CEO ofOerlikon Textile.

“Our e-save program fits perfectly to theneeds of our customers: Creating a higherproductivity, saving more energy and theprotection of the environment with a less wasteproduction,” Woon said.

Oerlikon will have a ‘virtual showroom’ for itsvisitors, in which they can familiarize themselveswith complex installations and process sequencesin 3D for nonwovens, synthetic staple fiber andBCF carpet yarn plants, he added.

THE THREE BUSINESS divisions ofthe Truetzschler Group will jointlyexhibit at ITMA Asia on stand E01 inhall W2. Machines and technologiesfor the Asian market will take centerstage.

Truetzschler Spinning is introducingthe new card TC 8 at ITMA Asia. Thismachine has been specificallydesigned for the Asian market and willbe built at Truetzschler TextileMachinery Shanghai, TTMS.

Truetzschler Nonwovens willshowcase the new Bastian windertechnology for the first time, whileTruetzschler Car Clothing will presentits new innovations such as the flatsseries NovoTop A and the firstmaintenance-free cylinder clothingFGX 1.

New product launchesfrom Truetzschler

Oerlikon to present advanced technology solutions

Rieter spinning machines

Oerlikon will have a ‘virtualshowroom’ for its visitors at the expo


TEXTILE MACHINERY


AFTER A SHARP reduction in global shipments of new textile machineryin 2008 and 2009 as a result of the global financial and economic crisis in

2008/2009, deliveries of new textile machinery surged in 2010 and evenstronger in 2011, in most cases to new record highs, according to the 34thannual International Textile Machinery Shipment Statistics (ITMSS) releasedrecently by the International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF).

In comparison to 2010, global shipments of new spinning machineryincreased by +15 per cent (short-staple spindles), by +35per cent (long staplespindles) and by +27 per cent (open-end rotors), of new draw-texturing spindlesby +42 per cent, of new shuttle-less looms by +44 per cent, and of newelectronic flat-knitting machines by +37 per cent. Only worldwide shipments ofnew large circular knitting machines dropped in 2011 by -16per cent.

The 2011 survey has been compiled in cooperation with some 118 textilemachinery manufacturers, representing a comprehensive measure of worldproduction.

Spinning MachineryAfter shipments of new short-staple spindles plummeted in 2008 (-33 per cent)and 2009 (-17 per cent), they jumped back in 2010 (+75 per cent) to pre-crisislevels and increased in 2011 by a further +15 per cent reaching 14.33 million, anall-time high. 94 per cent of all shipped short-staple spindles were destined forAsia (13.46 million), with China alone absorbing 8.90 million or 62 per cent ofglobal shipments, followed by India as distant second (2.49 million spindles or17per cent), Bangladesh (639,000 or 4.5 per cent), Turkey (628,000 or 4.4 percent) and Indonesia (517,000 or 3.6 per cent).

Global shipments of long-staple (wool) spindles soared in 2011 by +35 percent to 113,250. Europe was the main recipient (53,750 or 47 per cent),followed by Asia (49,000 or 43 per cent), the America (8,750 or 7.7 per cent)and Africa (2,000 or 1.8per cent). The single biggest investor in long-staple(wool) spindles was Turkey (32,500), followed by China (23,400), Iran(14,300), UAE (9,000) and Italy (8,800). Investments in open-end rotors jumpedin 2011 by +27 per cent to 572,250, a new record high. Asia was once again byfar the biggest investor in this spinning technology installing in total 463,250new rotors or 81per cent of global shipments. China was by far the biggestsingle investor in rotors absorbing 388,250 or 68 per cent of global shipments.India was again distant second with a total of 37,750 new open-end rotors(6.6per cent), followed by Turkey with 35,250 rotors (6.2 per cent), Uzbekistan

with 10,250 rotors (1.8 per cent), Brazil with 30,250 rotors (5.3 per cent) and theUSA with 12,250 rotors (2.1 per cent).

Texturing MachineryShipments of single heater draw-texturing spindles (for polyamide filaments)fell from 13,200 in 2010 to 1,824 in 2011 (-86 per cent). Only two countries,Taiwan, China (1,536) and Vietnam (288) were installing new texturing spindlesof this type.

In the segment of double heater draw-texturing spindles (for polyesterfilament) investments surged from 568,250 texturing spindles in 2010 to826,500 in 2011, an increase of +45 per cent. This meant also a new all timehigh of newly shipped double-heater draw-texturing spindles. By far the biggestinvestor in this type of machinery was China where 624,500 new spindles or76per cent of global shipments were installed, followed by distant second Indiawith 90,000 or 11 per cent, Turkey with 20,000 or 2.4per cent, Japan with19,750 or 2.4 per cent and Taiwan with 7,500 or 0.9 per cent.

Weaving MachineryWorldwide shipments of shuttle-less looms continued soaring in 2011 to153,750 machines, an increase of +44 per cent from last year's record of107,000. The main reason behind this development is the surge in shipments ofwater-jet looms. After a skyrocketing jump of +537 per cent to 73,250 in 2010,which was partially due to the fact that more weaving machinery manufacturersreported for the first time in 2010, global deliveries in this shuttle-less loomsegment continued soaring by +54 per cent to 113,000 machines in 2011.

In the shuttle-less loom segment of rapier/projectile looms shipmentsincreased from 16,000 in 2010 to 19,250 in 2011, an increase of +20 per cent.Also deliveries of shuttle-less air-jet looms increased from 17,750 in 2010 to21,500 in 2011 (+21 per cent). As in previous years the main destination ofshuttle-less looms was Asia, where 148,500 or 96 per cent of all new shuttle-lesslooms were installed. Country-wise the biggest global investor was again Chinawith 128,100 looms (83 per cent), of which 106,000 were water-jet looms,13,900 air-jet looms and 8,250 rapier/projectile looms.

With 9,100 looms (6 per cent) of global shipments India was the secondbiggest investor, followed by Indonesia with 2,900 (1.9 per cent) and Korea with2,500 looms (1.6 per cent).

Circular & Flat Knitting MachineryGlobal shipments of large circular knitting machines decreased by 16 per centfrom 34,500 in 2010 to 28,900 in 2011. Nevertheless, this was still the thirdhighest number of large circular knitting machines ever shipped. Also in thissegment Asia was the main regional investor in this type of machinery absorbing26,400 machines or 91 per cent of all machines shipped in 2011.

The biggest single investor was again China with a total of 21,200 machines(a global market share of 73 per cent) followed by India with 1,500 machines (or5.2 per cent), Bangladesh with 1,050 machines (or 3.6 per cent) and Turkey with900 machines (or 3.1 per cent).

In the segment of electronic flat knitting machines, global shipments in 2011jumped by +37 per cent to 70,000 machines.

The bulk of global shipments of electronic flat knitting machines wasdelivered to Asia (65,250 or 93 per cent), while Europe's (including Turkey)share reached 5.8 per cent (= 4,100 machines).

The biggest single investor in 2011 was again China, where 54,800 newmachines (78 per cent) were installed, followed by Bangladesh with 4,475machines (6.4 per cent), Hong Kong with 2,930 machines (4.2 per cent), Turkeywith 2,150 machines (3.1per cent) and Italy with 1,120 machines (1.6 per cent).

Global shipments of new textilemachinery sees surge

The global market for textile machinery is projected to reach US$22.9 billion by the year 2017


TEST DES ÉTOFFES


LE SECTEUR DE l'habillement et des textilesest extrêmement concurrentiel et très

fragmenté. Il est donc important que lesproduits et les marques puissent se distinguer,et cela peut être facilité par l'amélioration de laqualité et le maintien d'une qualité constante.

Les tests peuvent servir à mesurer différentsaspects de qualité objective, à déterminer si levêtement ou autre produit textile est adapté àl'usage auquel il est destiné, et dans quellemesure, et à assurer la conformité à de normesdéfinies.

Il existe une pléthore de normes différentes,auxquelles un produit donné doitéventuellement se conformer ; tout dépend del'usage final auquel ce produit est destiné. Bienqu'il existe des normes mondialementreconnues comme les normes ISO, denombreux pays, comme les États-Unis,l'Australie et l'Union Européenne, ont aussileurs propres normes. Par ailleurs, denombreux détaillants et de nombreusesmarques mettent en avant leurs propresnormes spécialisées, comme Next, Marks andSpencer Limited, pour garantir la qualitéconstante de leurs marques.

Il existe également un large éventail de testsdisponibles dans l'industrie textile pour assurerla conformité d'une étoffe ou d'un produit fini.On peut citer notamment des mesures derésistance à la traction, à l'éclatement, àl'arrachement des boutons et boutons-pressionet de résistance au déchirement, ainsi que desmesures d'évaluation de l'abrasion et duboulochage, d'étirement et de rétablissement,des mesures d'inflammabilité, de résistance aufrottement, au lavage et à la transpiration, aurétrécissement, entre autres.

Il existe beaucoup d'entreprises sur lemarché qui se sont spécialisées dans lafabrication de matériel de test des étoffes, etd'autres dans les services d'essais spécialiséspar le biais de laboratoires dédiés. SDL Atlas,entreprise britannique, se targue d'offrir la pluslarge gamme de produits d'essai, defournitures, de consommables et de servicesdans le domaine des textiles, tout cela à partird'une source unique. Son catalogue comporteplus de 600 solutions de test des textiles. Lacompagnie MAG Solvics Private Limited,basée en Inde, propose plus de 130 dispositifsde test pour les fibres, les fils et les étoffes, tousconformes aux normes d'essai internationales

appropriées, y compris ISO, AATCC, ASTM,BS, IS, SDC, IWS, IWTO et ITF. Elle compteplus de 7000 installations et 3600 clients.L'Italien Mesdan offre une large gamme dematériel pour l'analyse des fibres, fils, étoffestraditionnelles et techniques, non-tissés, cuir,etc., en conformité avec les normesinternationales.

Plus un vêtement est fonctionnel, plus ilnécessite de tests. Comme étoffes etvêtements bénéficient des progrèstechnologiques, les méthodes et leséquipements de test doivent évoluer enconséquence.

Le test Martindale permet de vérifier ladurabilité et l'aptitude des étoffes pour desusages différents, car il teste l'abrasion et leboulochage des étoffes tissées, non tissées ettricotées. Un échantillon circulaire, monté surun porte-échantillon et soumis à une chargedéfinie, est frotté contre une matière abrasivedéfinie dans un mouvement de translationtraçant une figure de Lisssajous, le porte-échantillon étant en outre libre de tournerautour de son axe perpendiculaire par rapportau plan de l'échantillon. Le point final du test estquand deux fils sont rompus ou, dans le cas

d'étoffes en velours, quand le velours esttotalement usé.

Pratiquement toutes les entreprises dematériel de test fournissent ce typed'équipements, bien que ceux fournit parJames Heal aient été récemment réactualiséset modernisés. Il propose désormais troismodèles dans sa série Martindale 900, avecneuf, cinq ou deux postes. Chaque poste estfacilement accessible depuis l'avant de lamachine, sans obstruction ; chacun d'eux estmuni de prises pour les doigts permettant unretrait facile des plaques supérieures, ce quipermet de changer librement les outils entremouvements. Faites de matériaux légers etrésistants à l'usure, les plaques supérieuressont réalisées avec précision à partird'aluminium dur anodisé, de qualitéaéronautique. Un panneau de commandeconvivial et intuitif, avec des invites vocalesfacultatives, offre une gamme complèted'options de maintien des échantillons, et lamachine est conforme à toutes les normes detest Martindale.

La gamme James Heal réactualiséecomprend le Testeur universel de résistanceTitan 4 qui peut tester la résistance des fils,

Niki Tait observe quelques-uns des nouveaux procédés de test et équipements évoluésdisponibles aujourd'hui

Test des étoffes - une science enévolution constante

James Heal Martindale 900


étoffes et vêtements ainsi que la sécurité des fixations en appliquant undegré constant d'extension (test CRE). Conforme aux normes, il peutfonctionner à la fois en modes tension et compression grâce à unegamme étendue de pinces à échantillon interchangeables sans outils,offrant le choix entre trois cellules de chargement, jusqu'à 3000 N (300 kgenviron). Le progiciel unique d'analyse des essais TestWise pour fil, cuir,étoffe et non-tissés comprend l'analyse de la résistance à la traction,glissement de la couture, sécurité des fixations, résistance des boutons,extraction des boucles du velours, résistance au déchirement, résistanceau pelage (délamination), étirement et récupération (cyclique), résistanceà l'éclatement, à la perforation et à l'écrasement. Il contient unebibliothèque étendue de normes nationales et internationales et deméthodes d'essai de détaillants préchargées, avec un "Éditeur denormes" qui permet de modifier facilement des normes existantes ou decréer de nouvelles méthodes. Après sélection de la norme ou de laméthode d'essai requise, il est possible de définir automatiquement lesparamètres (y compris la longueur entre repères).

Le TruBurst 3 de James Heal est un testeur d'éclatement et de fatigue3D totalement pneumatique qui dépasse confortablement les exigencesstrictes des normes ISO 13938-2, ASTM D3786 et de nombreusesautres normes nationales et internationales. La souplesse inhérente duTruBurst 3 lui donne la capacité de tester une large gamme de matériauxy compris textiles, non-tissés, papier, carton, plastiques et produitsmédicaux. Les fonctions clés comprennent la mesure des distensions parlaser sans contact pour des résultats précis, une correction automatiquedu diaphragme pour améliorer la précision, une pression de serrageréglable pour éviter le glissement ou la détérioration des échantillons, unsystème de détection automatique de l'éclatement, une zone devisualisation éclairée, la reconnaissance automatique d'un dôme testavec une commutation sans outils pour accélérer les essais et réduire letemps d'indisponibilité. Il est livré avec un logiciel intuitif pour utilisateursnovices ou expérimentés, qui permet à la machine de recommencer uncycle jusqu'à 500 fois à une pression ou distension donnée, et uneconfiguration des méthodes d'essai autorisant jusqu'à cinquante testsdéfinissables par l'utilisateur. Le modèle à double contrôle a été approuvéà la fois par Marks and Spencer et Adidas

Les testeurs de déchirement de type Elmendorf servent à déterminerla résistance au déchirement des étoffes, films plastiques et autresmatériaux similaires. De nombreuses entreprises proposent ce type detesteur, y compris B-Tex Engineering, basée en Inde. Conforme auxnormes internationales, son testeur de type Elmendorf détermine larésistance au déchirement en mesurant le travail nécessaire audéchirement sur une longueur fixe de l'échantillon. Il est constitué d'unpendule à secteurs qui pivote sur un roulement à billes anti-friction sur unsupport vertical fixé sur un socle métallique rigide.

Le pendule est levé jusqu'à ce qu'il repose contre la broche du bloc delibération. Les deux mâchoires doivent être ouvertes et l'échantillon estinséré entre les mâchoires. Le levier de coupe est poussé pour faire unefente dans l'échantillon, élevant celui-ci jusqu'à ce que le couteau ailleaussi loin de possible. Le couteau doit être abaissé à sa position initiale etle pointeur doit être déplacé jusqu'à ce qu'il repose contre la vis d'arrêt dupointeur. On libère alors le pendule. Il faut tenir le levier jusqu'à ce que ladéchirure soit complète, puis le libérer sur le balancement de retour. On litensuite l'échelle à la division entière la plus proche. La procédure doitensuite être répétée cinq fois et la moyenne est calculée. Le résultat estcalculé avec la formule : Force de déchirement (g) = K x valeur moyennedes valeurs d'échelle.

Des études récentes ont révélé que pour la plupart des acheteursd'ensembles de détente, le confort de l'étoffe de leurs tenues estétroitement lié à sa capacité à gérer l'humidité, notamment latranspiration. Les chercheurs se sont donc efforcés de développerdifférents moyens pour mesurer objectivement et pour documenter lesniveaux de confort et de gestion de l'humidité. Bien qu'il existe des

méthodes d'essai pour évaluer l'absorption, l'effet de mèche et le tempsde traversée, les normes existantes ont été incapables de mesurer lecomportement de transfert de liquide dans les tissus des vêtements defaçon dynamique.

SDL Atlas a développé un nouveau testeur de gestion de l'humiditépour mesurer les propriétés de gestion de l'humidité des tissus deperformance pour ensemble de détente et autres. Ce dispositif a obtenurécemment l'approbation de l'Association américaine des chimistes etcoloristes du textile (AATCC).

Il mesure dynamiquement le phénomène de transfert des liquidesdans les étoffes textiles tricotées, tissées et non tissées en utilisant descapteurs des degrés d'humidité concentrique supérieurs et inférieurs. Ilgénère six principaux indices : valeur supérieure/inférieure du temps demouillage, valeur supérieure/inférieure du taux d'absorption, valeursupérieure/inférieure du rayon mouillé maximum, valeursupérieure/inférieure de la vitesse de diffusion, capacité de transportcumulatif dans un sens, capacité de gestion globale de l'humidité, ainsiqu'une valeur d'indice de déplacement de l'humidité dans un sens.

MMT est constitué de capteurs d'humidité concentriques supérieurs etinférieurs. L'échantillon est maintenu à plat sous pression fixe entre lescapteurs tandis qu'une solution d'essai standard est introduite sur lasurface supérieure du tissu. Les changements de résistance électriqueentre les capteurs supérieurs et inférieurs sont alors enregistrés de façondynamique sur ordinateur.

Measurement Technology Northwest propose également unmannequin thermique submersible baptisé Nemo. Il s'agit d'unmannequin en aluminium totalement immersible avec éléments dechauffage et capteurs à thermistors. Tous les composants électroniquesde chauffage et de commande sont situés à l'intérieur du mannequin pourune précision et une facilité de maintenance maximales. Ce mannequinest totalement étanche et pèse 70 kg (155 lb), ce qui correspondapproximativement au poids moyen d'un être humain. Il est classé pourles essais d'immersion à une profondeur de 3 m, ce qui signifie qu'il peutêtre utilisé pour effectuer des tests réalistes de matériel de plongée, decombinaisons de survie en mer et d'autres vêtements de protection.Nemo possède des articulations étanches avec des paramètres de

TEST DES ÉTOFFES


James Heal Titan 4


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friction réglables au niveau des chevilles, descoudes, des genoux et des hanches. Cesarticulations conservent l'intégrité de leurétanchéité dans n'importe quelle pose.

Salzmann AG St. Gallen produit etcommercialise le MST Professional, undispositif de mesure de pression pour lacompression médicale et des bas decontention qui permettent de mesurer laproduction standard, ainsi que des baspersonnalisés. Il peut également enregistrer lespropriétés d'élasticité et contient un programmede test d'assurance qualité. Les gradients depression peuvent être mesurés pour desmesures de jambe normalisées et individuellesavec des diagrammes de force / d'étirementproduits simultanément pour plusieurs pointsde mesure. Une forme de jambe variable estutilisée, qui peut couvrir 95 pour cent des taillesconnues. Une corrélation avec HOSY, HATRAet CEN (ITFH) est possible. La sonde demesure plate n'est pas saillante, parconséquent le tissu n'est pas tendu à l'excèsavant la mesure, et aucune mesure erronéen'est possible, comme c'est le cas avec lessondes volumineuses. Les résultats peuventêtre lus directement, et n'ont pas besoin d'êtreconvertis à l'aide de tables et de formules. LeMST est mobile et peut s'utiliser n'importe où.Les mesures peuvent être reproduitesintégralement lorsqu'elles sont effectuées pardes opérateurs différents.

Bien qu'il ne soit pas nouveau, le "SteamingCylinder" ou cylindre à vapeur de WIRA estprésenté par WIRA comme "la normeindustrielle testée et respectée" en utilisationextensive dans l'industrie et chez lesgrossistes. Il facilite la prédiction durétrécissement des tissus au stade de lafabrication et permet une mesure reproductibledu rétrécissement par "relâchement" enutilisant une méthode de test standard, tout enfournissant un test de routine rapide pour lecontrôle des processus.

Le cylindre possède une chambre à vapeurà double paroi, thermiquement isolée, danslaquelle les échantillons d'étoffe sont placés surun cadre de support en acier inoxydable defaible capacité thermique et de superficieréduite. La vapeur est injectée dans la chambrepar un générateur de vapeur intégré. Celui-ciest relié à une alimentation en eau, ce qui rendson fonctionnement automatique.

Le Steaming Cylinder de WIRA soumetquatre échantillons à la fois à de la vapeur

sèche saturée à pression atmosphérique. Leséchantillons ne subissent aucune restrictionmécanique et il n'y a ensuite aucunrefroidissement sous vide. Le dispositif permetune mesure reproductible de la composante derétrécissement se produisant en pressing à lavapeur, attribuable à des contraintes latentesdans l'étoffe fournie. Tout rétrécissementsupplémentaire qui peut survenir vient descaractéristiques du processus de pressing lui-même. Une minuterie est incorporée dansl'appareil pour donner une indication du cyclede 30 secondes requis par les normes BS4323et ISO3005.

Dans le test standard, les échantillons sontpréconditionnés dans l'atmosphère standardpour tester les textiles. Ils sont ensuite marquésà l'aide du dispositif de mesure puis mesurés.L'échantillon est soumis à la vapeur pendant 30secondes, suivies de 30 secondes de repos àl'extérieur du cylindre, et ce cycle est effectuétrois fois en tout. Les échantillons sont ensuiteremesurés.

WIRA fabrique également une large gammed'instruments pour les tests des étoffesclassiques et non tissées, utilisés pour lestissus en PPE et les vêtements de protection, ycompris un dispositif de test de flamme et dechaleur radiante.

Dans les industries des métaux, lesvêtements de protection doivent protéger de lachaleur et du métal en fusion PCT:003, le

dispositif de test de métal en fusion de WIRA,soumet l'échantillon à une application contrôléede métal en fusion. Un film de PVC gaufré estplacé derrière l'échantillon. La petite quantité demétal en fusion est versée dans l'échantillonqui est soutenu à un angle. Le film en PVC estensuite inspecté pour noter les dommageséventuels. Le test est répété avec des quantitésplus grandes ou plus petites de métal en fusionjusqu'à ce qu'une détérioration minimum dufilm soit observée.

Les vêtements conçus pour la protectiondes personnes contre les petiteséclaboussures de métal en fusion sont souventsoumis à des charges thermiques élevées. Unefonction importante est donc la résistance autransfert de chaleur à travers le tissu deprotection. Avec le PCT:004, un dispositif deWIRA pour les tests de petites gouttes de métalen fusion, des gouttes de métal en fusion sontformées en faisant fondre l'extrémité d'unebarre en acier à l'aide d'un chalumeauoxyacétylénique. Une barre est abaissée à unevitesse contrôlée pour créer un flux constant degouttes. Les gouttes de métal tombentverticalement dans un entonnoir qui les guidesur l'échantillon. Derrière l'échantillon, uncapteur de température contrôle latempérature. Le nombre de gouttes est comptétandis que la température est surveillée etportée à 40 °C.

Des vêtements de protection, comme lesprotections pour les mains, sont conçus pourprotéger contre les températures de contactélevées. Dans le PCT:005, l'appareil de test detempérature de contact de WIRA, le cylindrechauffant est porté à la température de contactsouhaitée. La température, normalement situéedans la plage de 100 à 500 °C, est réglée aumoyen d'un régulateur de température. Deséchantillons circulaires sont découpés dans leproduit et placés sur le calorimètre. Lecalorimètre est ensuite monté en puissancejusqu'à ce qu'un contact ait lieu dans lechauffage, et la température est enregistrée enfonction du temps. La durée d'une montée entempérature de 10 °C est enregistrée.

Niki Tait C. Text FCI FCFI heads ApparelSolutions (www.apparelsolutions,co,uk) quifournit une assistance indépendante et uneformation à Apparel Industry dans lesdomaines des procédés de fabrication,ingénierie industrielle, technologie del'information, réponse rapide, etc.

TEST DES ÉTOFFES


Brother Internationale Industriemachine GmbH ..............................................5

Loepfe Brothers Ltd ..........................................................................................24

Osthoff Senge GmbH & Co. KG ......................................................................11

Vetri Engineers ......................................................................................................7

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Salzmann AG St Gallen produit et commercialise le MSTProfessional, un dispositif de mesure de pression pour lacompression médicale et des bas de contention.


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Africa & Middle East Textiles issue 2 2012

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