Africa Great Rift Valley Art

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    LAKE

    ALBER

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    Lake

    Edw

    ard

    La

    ke

    Kivu

    Lak

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    eru

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    AKE

    VI

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    TORI

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    LakeRuk

    wa

    Lake George

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    Nyiragongo11,385ft3,470m

    Mo

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    Virun

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    Monts Bl

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    Rwenz o

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    M

    ts.

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    SEMULIKI

    NAT. PARK

    RWENZORI MTS.

    NAT. PARK

    VIRUNGA

    NATIONAL

    PARK

    MURCHISON

    FALLS

    NATIONAL

    PARK

    NSUMBU

    NATIONAL

    PARK

    QUEEN

    ELIZABETH

    NATIONALPARK

    MAHALE MTS.

    NATIONAL

    PARK

    KIBALENATIONALPARK

    BWINDI IMPENETRABLE

    NAT. PARK

    GOMBE STREAM

    NAT. PARK

    MGAHINGA

    GORILLA

    NAT. PARK

    VOLCANS NAT. PARK

    A

    A

    Goma

    Bunia

    Uvira

    Uvinza

    Kigoma

    Kigali

    Huye(Butare)

    Bukavu

    Butembo

    Rubavu(Gisenyi)

    Muyinga

    Bujumbura

    Musanze (Ruhengeri)

    RWANDA

    TANZANIA

    UGANDA

    DEMOCRATIC

    REPUBLIC

    OF THE

    CONGO

    BURUNDI

    DEMOCRATIC

    REPUBLIC

    OF THE

    CONGO

    ZAMBIA

    TANZANIA

    UGANDA

    BURUNDI

    RWANDA

    TANZANIA

    ZAMBIA

    BURUNDI

    RWANDA

    UGANDA

    SOUTHSUDAN

    DEMOCRATIC

    REPUBLIC

    OFTHE

    CONGO

    Lowla nd

    Forest

    Lowl and

    Forest

    FloodedGrassland

    FloodedGrassland

    FloodedGrassland

    ThicketFlooded

    Grassland

    The western arm of Africas Great Rift Valleythe Albertine Riftembraces such

    rich and varied habitats that its wildlife diversity is unparalleled on the continent.

    With deep freshwater lakes filling the valleys spine (map, far left), the Albertine spans

    mountains, marshes, savannas, and active volcanoes. The geologic forces that created

    this rift valley are still in motion, most visibly at its center, around Lake Kivu (below).

    TODAY

    10 MILLIONYEARS AGO

    Tectonicplatesbegin to moveapart asmagmarises. A shallowvalley forms, with alowescarp-ment, orridge, along afault line.Lavaoozesup through fissuresand coolsinto sheetsof rock.

    7.5 MILLIONYEARS AGO

    More magmarises asthe landcontinuestostretchand fracture.Volcanicconesbegin to dotthe valley. Faulting causesthewest side ofthe valley to sink,heightening the escarpment.

    3 MILLIONYEARS AGO

    The widening rift valley sinksfurther, creating an escarpmenton the east. Streamsflowing fromthe western highlandsfillan earlyLake Kivu. Erupting volcanoeswillform the VirungaMountains.

    Splitting a ContinentAfricasGreat Rift Valley followsthe edgesof tectonic

    platesthat merged more than abillion years ago. Now

    the platesare separating, or rifting, along those seams.

    The Arabian plate wasthe first to split off, starting 30 to

    25 million yearsago. In another30 million years, riftingmay cleave the Somalian plate fromthe main continent

    and detach the block called the Tanzaniacraton.

    The Albertine ArkTheAlbertineRift cradlesmorethan 850speciesfound

    nowhereelseincludingtherare mountaingorilla(about

    780remain) andthe venomousGreatLakesbush viper.

    There are familiarfacestoo: More than 50 percent

    ofthecontinentsbirdspeciesandalmost40percentof

    itsmammal specieslivehere. Theillustratedscenesat

    bottomhighlightfour vitalAlbertineecosystems.

    A MONTANE FOREST B ALPINE MOORLAND

    The Great

    C LAKE AND WETLAND D SAVANNA-FOREST MOSAIC

    Covering the lowerslopes ofmountains and the high-landsflanking the valley, thisecosystemholds the riftsgreatest number of endemic species. Flamboyant birdsand chameleonsand 11 speciesofmonkeysshare theforest with the web-toed Ruwenzoriotter shrew, aboutafoot long, which catchescrabs and insectsin streams.

    Ataltitudesabove10,000 feet,themisty RwenzoriMountainsandthe volcanicVirungachainshelterother-worldlyplantsheathersas tallastrees andtoweringlobelias.Thickfur warmsthetree hyrax,adistant relativeofthe elephant.Twoendangeredprimates,themountaingorillaandthe goldenmonkey,survivehere.

    Papyrusis the sole perch ofthe red-breasted papyrusgonolek. Along with otherwetland vegetation, papyrusfrondsform supportive matsfor aquaticantelope calledsitatungas. The Congo clawlessotterfishes here andalso digs for giant earthworms in pockets of swampyforest clearingsscattered about the rift.

    Two rainy seasonsayear bring abundant grassfor thesavannas grazing topi and Uganda kobprey for the toppredators,lions,and forscavengingvulturesand eagles.As elephants push over trees while feeding on branchesand leaves, grassland expands. Naturalfiresfrequentlysweep through, priming the savannaforregeneration.

    DYNAMICS OF LIFE IN THE ALBERTINE RIFT

    Rift Valley

    Blue-headedsunbird

    Ruwenzoriduiker

    Shoebillstork

    Hippopotamus Africanlion

    Africanelephant

    Mountaingorilla

    Giantlobelia

    Parrotimpatiens

    Red hotpoker flower

    Uganda giantcycad

    Great Lakesbush viper

    Extreme variation in altitude and

    climate contributesto the Albertinesbiodiversity. This elevation profile ofhabitats, with theirtypicalplantsandanimals, tracesthe 82-mile-long crosssection marked on the map at farleft.

    HEAVILY CULTIVATED AREA

    Rwenzori Mountains

    Alpine moorl and

    Montane forest Montane forest

    Lake and wetland

    L a k e G e o r g e

    UGANDADEMOCRATICREPUBLICOFTHE CONGO

    Savanna-forest mosaic

    THREATS Eveninprotectedareas, forestsare clearedforfarmland and fuel; goldmining isfouling streams.

    THREATS The warmingtemperaturesof climatechange could shrink thisalready restricted habitat.

    THREATS Overfishing istaxing lake stocks, andwetlandsare being drainedto expand farmland.

    Nyiragongo

    Goma

    Lake Kivu

    Rising magma

    Fault

    Lavabeds

    Lavaoozesthrough fissuresin Earthscrust.

    Westernescarpment

    Volcaniccones

    Easternescarpment

    Streamsflowfromhighlandsinto an earlyLake Kivu.

    Solidified layersofvolcanicrock

    Arrowsindicaterelative motion oftectonicplates.

    Lake sedimentsatoplayersofvolcanicrock

    Faults

    ENDEMIC (FOUNDNOWHEREELSE)

    NOTENDEMIC

    Ruwenzorituraco

    Yellow-crestedhelmet shrike

    LHoestsmonkey

    Ruwenzoriotter shrew

    Strange-nosedchameleon

    Tree hyrax

    Goldenmonkey

    Mountain gorilla

    Goliath heron

    Sitatunga

    Hippopotamus

    African pygmygoose

    Congoclawlessotter

    Blue-headedcoucal

    Lion

    Uganda kob

    Topi

    Lappvultu

    Giraffe

    Elephant

    Total species

    8,668MAMMALS 385

    BIRDS 1,074

    REPTILES 177

    AMPHIBIANS 143

    FISH 480

    PLANTS 6,409

    Endemic

    854MAMMALS 45

    BIRDS 42

    REPTILES 18

    AMPHIBIANS 38

    FISH 370

    PLANTS 341

    Threatened

    175MAMMALS 36

    BIRDS 25

    REPTILES 2

    AMPHIBIANS 15

    FISH 24

    PLANTS 73

    Carbon dioxide bubblesup anddissolvesin the lakesdepths.

    Lavaflowfrom2002 eruption

    Acacia tree

    Cand

    Papyrus

    Giant lobelia

    Papyrusgonolek

    Giantheather

    Disa stairsii

    orchid

    Giantgroundsel

    12,500 ft

    15,000 ft

    10,000 ft

    7,500 ft

    5,000 ft

    SOMALIANPLATE

    SOMALIANPLATE

    NUBIAN(AFRICAN)

    PLATE

    TANZANIACRATON

    ARABIAN PLATE

    Madagascar

    Madagascar

    TANZANIACRATON

    NUBIAN(AFRICAN)

    PLATE

    ARABIAN PLATE

    EasternRift

    EthiopianRift

    WesternRift

    (Albertine)

    INDIAN

    OCEAN

    GulfofA

    den

    RedSea

    AFRICA

    Realms of the AlbertineFromLake Albert through Lake Tanganyika, the 920-mile-long rift

    holdsfourecosystemsvitalto itsbiodiversity.Withfertile volcanic

    soiland amplerain,it alsosupportsone ofAfricasdensesthuman

    populations,mainlysubsistencefarmers.Wildlifeconservationhere

    also looksto healwoundsof war:Conflictsover land, resources,

    and powerhave killed millionsof people in the past two decades.

    AN

    SNAT. PARK

    AA

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    Speciesnumbers,fromtheWildlifeConservationSociety,arebestestimatesasof2011andconsideredtobeminimums.

    ALBERTINERIFT ECOSYSTEMS

    Westernescarpment

    A

    B

    C

    D

    A

    B

    C

    D

    N

    Areashownin Lake Kivugeology diagrams(right top)

    30 MILLIONYEARS

    FROM NOW

    TODAY

    Three volcanoesremain active. Nyiragongoerupted in 1977 and 2002, taking lives anddisplacing hundredsof thousandsofpeople.Moltenrock beneath1,600-foot-deepLakeKivureleasescarbon dioxide, which getstrappedin the lake. Ifan earthquake or eruption freedthe gas, along with trapped methane, thedeath tollwould be catastrophic.

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    POPUL TIONDENSTYPOPULATIONDENSITYPeople persq km sq mPeople persq km(sq mi)50 (130)

    100 (260)

    200 (520)

    500 (1,300)

    1,000 (2,600)

    DESIGN: JUAN VELASCO TEXT:SHELLEY SPERRYART:ALDO CHIAPPE WILDLIFE,GARY HINCKS GEOLOGYRESEARCH:BARBARA L.WYCKOFF PRODUCTION: SANDI OWATVEROTNUZZO CONSULTANTS: ALEXANDRIA L. GUTH, MICHIGAN TECHNOLOGICAL UNIVERSITY;ANDREW J. PLUMPTRE, WILDLIFE CONSERVATION SOCIETY;JOHN BATES AND VELIZAR SIMEONOVSKI, FIELD MUSEUM; HENK BEENTJE,ROYAL BOTANIC GARDENS, KEW; JULIAN KERBIS, ROOSEVELT UNIVERSITY; JOS SNOEKS, ROYAL MUSEUM FOR CENTRAL AFRICAMAPS:ROSEMARY P.DALEY,DEBBIE GIBBONS,JULIE A.IBINSON,JAMES E.MCCLELLAND,JR.MAP DATA: TERRESTRIAL ECOREGIONS GISDATABASE,WORLD WILDLIFE FUND;SRTM DATA,INTERNATIONAL CENTRE FOR TROPICAL AGRICULTURE;NASAEARTH OBSERVATORY;MODIS/TERRA VEGETATION CONTINUOUS FIELDS,NASA;UMD GLOBAL LAND COVER CLASSIFICATION,UNIVERSITY OF MARYLAND;OAK

    RIDGE NATIONAL LABORATORY LANDSCAN2009/UTBATTELLETECTONIC MAPS: STANISLAW MAZUR,GETECH;AFAR RIFT CONSORTIUM,UNIVERSITY OF LEEDS DATA

    MORE ON NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAPS AND ITS PRODUCTS AT NATGEOMAPS.COM OR CALL 18009621643

    COPYRIGHT 2011 NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC SOCIETY, WASHINGTON, D.C. PRINTED SEPTEMBER 2011

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    The elevationprofile offourecosystems(rightcenter)followsthis82-mile-longcrosssection.

    THREATENED ORVULNERABLE

    ENDANGERED

    SPECIESKEY

    Magma

    Bottego 15,418 ft

    Musanze(Ruhengeri)

    UGANDA

    RWANDA

    Rubavu(Gisenyi)

    UGANDADEM.REP.OFTHECONGO

    DEM

    .

    REP

    .OFTH

    ECONGO

    RWANDA

    7SEVEN BILLION S PECIAL S ERIES

    0 mi 100

    0 km 100

    A Montaneforest

    B Alpinemoorland

    C Lake andwetland

    D Savanna-forestmosaic