MARKETING IN

DESIGN

ASSIGNMENT 2

DESIGN IN MARKETING

DYLAN CHNG RONG JIH 1202143B

DYLAN CHNG RONG JIH

1202143B

DIPLOMA IN APPAREL DESIGN & MERCHANDISING

YEAR 1

SEMESTER 2

BLOCK 1

MARKETING IN DESIGN DPS 1021

ASSIGNMENT 2 DESIGN IN MARKETING

CONTENTS:

I. INTRODUCTION

II. CAMPAIGN ANALYSIS

A. STORE DESIGN

B. SINGAPORE STORE LAUNCH

C. 2010 BACK-TO-SCHOOL CAMPAIGN

III. PROBLEM ANALYSES

A. STORE DESIGN

B. SINGAPORE STORE LAUNCH

C. 2010 BACK-TO-SCHOOL CAMPAIGN

IV. SUMMARY AND CONCLUSION

V. REFERENCE LIST

I. INTRODUCTION

In the previous report, we analysed in detail the marketing environment of Abercrombie &

Fitch Co. and discuss some of their marketing strategies and their strengths and

weaknesses.

In this report we will be looking at specifically the design elements present in some of their

campaigns.

The points we will be focusing on are 1) store design as a campaign, 2) the 2011 Singapore

store launch and 3) the 2010 back-to-school campaign in collaboration with Bruce Weber.

Following that, we will look at an analysis of the problems faced by Abercrombie & Fitch Co.

in the use of the design elements in these campaigns.

II. CAMPAIGN ANALYSIS

Abercrombie & Fitch is a brand that maintains a very consistent image throughout all its

channels of marketing, throughout all its years of its current incarnation. The following

analyses will serve the highlight these similarities as well as point out some disparities, and

attempt to speculate at the rationalisation behind using certain specific elements or themes.

A. STORE DESIGN

Abercrombie & Fitch have a very distinct approach when it comes to store design. They

focus immensely on directional visual merchandising that reflects the character and ethos of

the brand. They have been cited as one of the best examples of a brand that is incredibly

focused and disciplined about its retail execution (Karl McKeever, brand director of retail

marketing consultancy, Visual Marketing)

.

One outstanding aspect of their highly-designed store environment is the music. Loud

music reminiscent of that played at modern youthful night-clubs is blasted throughout the

store, with one track blending into the next, keeping the intensity constant and unending.

With such an energetic and fast-paced mood set by the music, customers heart rates are

kept elevated, and their emotional state heightened, to the ends of translating alertness into

awareness of surroundings, participation in environment and consequently higher

probability of purchase.

A similar concept is applied to lighting. An Abercrombie & Fitch store consists of dim and

nearly non-existent ambient lighting, instead relying on glaring, bright spotlights, each

aimed directly at displays of products, illuminating them extravagantly and making them the

focus. By giving the customer a singular point of focus, this likewise could translate into

higher probability of purchase.

The products themselves are displayed lavishly and abundantly on tables and in glass

casings, giving an ideal and perfectionist Abercrombie & Fitch take on the world, and adding

visual value to the products, perhaps justifying their lofty costs.

Similarly, the use of mirrors covering almost every wall and column could serve to create a

labyrinthine atmosphere to the store and remove the idea of destination in the customers

minds while plunging them into an almost surreal fantasy-like setting. This disconnect

between what is perceived and what is seen perhaps creates a desire to wander, and with

more time spent in the store also comes the increased likelihood of purchase.

The store is pumped full of Abercrombie & Fitch fragrances, and this method of marketing

is reemphasised by the placement of ceiling-height shelves beside the cashier counter

(which is buried deep in the labyrinthine store) laden to the brim with various fragrances,

some even gift-wrapped, as if to attempt to trigger impulse buys.

Finally, the Abercrombie & Fitch mood is incomplete without the models. These models,

who really are promoters and sales assistants and cashiers, are hired off the street, and with

most of them being aspiring actors, models and dancers, already mostly have the typical

Abercrombie & Fitch look typecast.

This whole package is marketed as a lifestyle and aspiration which is highly sellable to a

highly impressionable target market among younger audiences.

B. SINGAPORE STORE LAUNCH

The Abercrombie & Fitch store launch in Singapore was marked by three main points: the

enormous controversial billboard portraying a chiselled male torso with jeans slipped down

almost to indecency, a huge line up of topless male Abercrombie & Fitch models outside the

store and a risqu and suggestive video involving homoerotic wrestling called The Main

Event.

The billboard itself was a major talking point upon its unveiling in the Orchard shopping

district due to its extremely suggestive and euphemistic imagery. It became the subject of

many a headline for weeks on end, and even with all the negative reactions and the eventual

removal of it, it had already generated the desired effect of creating enormous buzz about

the brand. This was evidenced by the massive queue amassed at the store hours before its

official opening.

This was compounded by the mini-event of having the fifty topless male models lined up,

and willing to pose for pictures, outside the store. This use of sex and sexuality to market a

brand or product is a common feature in many industries and definitely not uncommon to

Abercrombie & Fitchs brand of marketing. Studies have demonstrated that using physically

desirable people in marketing and advertising create two psychological reactions: the first is

anticipation associated with gratification, or the lust and attraction factor, and the other is

the association of oneself to that image, comparing ourselves as similar to what we see;

seeing a well-toned man outside A&F both (sic) attracts the ladies, but also makes men feel

that they too can look like that man (Singapore Business Review).

We may also speculate that the use of male models in the objectified manner is a method of

guerrilla marketing. To explain this, firstly one must understand the hypothesis that

Abercrombie & Fitch utilises their male models as sexual objects of fantasy: their use of

male models seems to dehumanise the subject and applies a degree of objectification,

which implies the possibility of possession. This would then translate to a desire to

purchase because of a reinforced association between model and product through brand.

Likewise, the memory of such thrill and exhilaration evoked by the event of having ones

photo taken with a desirable model is etched into Polaroid pictures given free to passers-by,

and would also serve as a perhaps more emotionally exploiting recall method and trigger a

desire to purchase.

C. 2010 BACK-TO-SCHOOL CAMPAIGN

This particular campaign functioned through a Facebook challenge in which the winners

would get to fly to Los Angeles and meet Abercrombie & Fitch models, the re-release of the

A&F Quarterly and a series of Old Hollywood themed videos shot by Bruce Weber.

Primarily, the brand marketed itself through this campaign via the use of mood.

The mood of these videos is set through three main facets: the music, the video and the

subject matter. Mood is a psychological phenomenon in which an array of various

psychologically stimulating experiences, like when any or a number or indeed all of the five

senses are affected, induce or suggest a particular feeling or state of mind.

This is not necessarily a straightforward and individual sensation, and more often than not

an amalgamation of various primary and secondary emotional responses. These can be

triggered by effecting primal or basic responses, or even by effecting imagery or acoustics

that stimulate the mind to recall conditioned responses (consequential of popular culture

and unnatural ingrained reactions.)

As a collective, the campaign evokes a mood of struggling towards fame in Hollywood while

in tandem with an air of luxury and elitism, although rather than creating this latter mood

out of the implications of wealth and monetary grandeur, it is done emotionally. By creating

scenes in which a group of highly fraternal, familiar and communal individuals are shown

expressing their closeness and comfort around each other, this allows for a feeling of

belonging and exclusivity in the A&F family. To compound this effect, the use of attractive

models sends across the implication that adornment with A&F clothing has the consequence

of becoming or at least belonging in an attractive group. The use of these emotional

triggers creates a degree of emotional investment in the brand.

With Old Hollywood in mind, the subject of most of the campaign involves an audition

process. It could be allegorical to both the adversities and obstacles facing the aspiring

starlets of Hollywood. This creates a fantasy situation that many a youth can relate to

regardless of sex or sexual orientation: the desire for fame and to be recognised. Because

A&Fs target market majorly focuses on youths, it is shrewd to pursue a theme of stardom

and fame, however large a degree, for what teenager does not to a certain extent want to be

known in the world and leave their mark?

The mood here is thus one of struggling to make a name for oneself and conversely one of

glamour and renown.

Woven into this of course is a certain degree of nudity and sexuality which would be rather

amiss if not in videos for A&F. Therein lies the implication of pleasure and gratification that

likewise anyone can relate to, let alone a teenager. A mood of some sexual energy is thus

evoked here and is at home in an A&F video.

Because of the Old Hollywood and glamour imagery, a mood of wealth, recognition and

fame amongst

peers of equal stature is created. It is the perfect scenario for any teen, indeed, for any one,

who values their individuality and their own person. With such an air of aspiration and

ambition clamouring for fame, the videos do truly embody the American Dream.

It works in a way not dissimilar to how teens often aspire to belong to the popular groups

within their schools and communities by virtue of observation.

III. PROBLEM ANALYSES

A. STORE DESIGN

The elements that make the store such a theoretical success could also prove to be its

downfall.

The most obvious fallacy is the lighting, which while both creating an atmosphere and a

focus on products can also be so dark that it actually inversely creates a sense of wariness

about customers. When they cannot see exactly what they are purchasing and assess for

themselves the quality and value for money, the possibility of their deciding against buying

may actually increase.

There is also the possibility that the dimness of lightingand by extension the entire

nightclub ambiencemay be associated with sleaziness, an image that many a wholesome

customer will not want to be related to.

The loudness of the music can also create a sense of discomfort and alarm in certain

customers, and when customers do not feel at ease in a store, they are likewise less likely to

purchase anything at all.

The perfume itself and its overwhelming musk poses another major problem, as while

fragrances may be attractive in small doses, an overhanging haze may merely serve to

disgust and overwhelm, similarly contributing to the vibe of discomfort and unease.

Therefore, it is very likely that Abercrombie & Fitchs lauded targeted and highly conceptual

visual merchandising could be its undoing.

B. SINGAPORE STORE LAUNCH

The main issue with the Singapore store launch and its design elements is that in a fairly

conservative social environment like Singapore, the benefits of straddling the line between

controversy and innocent buzz may be outweighed by the harm.

While controversy may generate talk, when discussing the quality of this fame or infamy,

controversy is usually more malignant than benign. Simply put, creating controversy about

ones brand may only serve to create an undesirable association between negativity and the

brand that can see a drop in potential customers otherwise not experienced when using

more neutral or wholesome methods.

C. 2010 BACK-TO-SCHOOL CAMPAIGN

While the use of shrewd cinematography, photography and a classic Hollywood-esque

playlist may carry great appeal artistically, it can also detach the videos from the brand's

products, especially when examined in tandem with the subject matter and themes of the

videos. That is to say, Abercrombie & Fitch does not usually associate themselves with the

concept of Hollywood glamour, but rather with athletics and outdoor activity. This swap in

direction could cause confusion or worse still a dip in following due to speculations of

disloyalty to roots.

The presence of partially nude models frolicking is a possibly detrimental element

inadvertising products. Because of the very self-defeating nature of this design element (ie.

partial nudity and nudity significantly disallows promotion of clothing) it could be said that

in terms of promotional value ofproducts,the videos and indeed the Quarterly itself are a

weakness.

However this point is only valid in terms of discussing product-based promotion.

Naturally, if focusing onbrand promotionthe videos and catalogue are excellent and speak

very clearly of what A&F is about.

A more minor point drawing from the factor of people is that the use of exclusively athletic

and handsome models may be have an intimidating effect on audiences who deem

themselves as less attractive than the people represented. This intimidation can result in

shying away from the brand altogether because of inferiority complexes, for example.

In terms of mood, it may simply be that the ambience evoked by the videos may not be

appealing to its audiences. For example, the use of orchestral instrumental music may be

unappealing to certain audiencesor indeed the staunch devotees to the A&F brand who

may feel that this strays from traditionwho do not relate to that scene. Likewise this more

personal touch to the videos by including quirky interview tapes and antics may come

across as faltering from brand integrity by others. Aside from that, the mood created by

scenes of young persons frolicking with one another in fraternity may be unappealing as

well perhaps to some conservative individuals or communities (as public exposure and acts

of intimacy, especially in nudity, is considered revolutionary and indeed taboo in some

areas).

Overall, the problems that we can spot in the case of Bruce Weber's A&F media is the fact

that its 'niche' imagery may simply be completely unappealing to some.

IV. SUMMARY AND CONCLUSION

Abercrombie & Fitch seems to be a brand more concerned with selling an image, a mood

and a fantasy more than individual product. It remains steadfast in its branding, whether out

of belief in an ultimately beneficial outcome in spite of set backs and controversy resultant,

or out of sheer unwillingness to change and stagnation.

Regardless, the brand remains strong in its visuals and brand power, and is an excellent

example of a company that utilises design as strategy, where the brand and the image is the

majority of what they are selling, if not everything, when they sell clothing.

In fact Abercrombie & Fitch could be said to rely on their branding as such.

V. REFERENCE LIST

Research:

http://www.guardian.co.uk/fashion/2012/apr/28/abercrombie-fitch-savile-row

http://www.businessinsider.com/abercrombie-and-fitch-hiring-process-2012-10

Report on A&F Singapore opening:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E7k6Do-9cFAOpening of Singapore store:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GU8Ba80nujA&feature=fvwrelhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8tDHql8gPHo2010 Campaign videos:

1.Screen Tests -watch it (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1mcS19J0iac)

2.Call Backs-read about it (http://anfnewsnow.blogspot.com/2010/08/call-backs-are-

here-for-screen-test.html)and watch it (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nqEhyYv3OYA)

3.Closed Set- read about it (http://anfnewsnow.blogspot.com/2010/09/closed-set-is-

scandalously-fun-racy-and.html)

4.Fantasy Studio- read about it (http://anfnewsnow.blogspot.com/2010/09/fantasy-

studiowhere-movie-legends-are.html)

http://anfnewsnow.blogspot.sg/p/a.html

Images:

http://hedonism.files.wordpress.com/2007/04/afstoreldn.jpg?w=500

http://retaildesignblog.net/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/Abercrombie-Fitch-flagship-

London.jpg