Adventures in Alaska

8/13/2019 Adventures in Alaska

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Adventures in Alaska

By

S. HALL YOUNG, D.D.

Alaska Days with John Muir. Illustrated, 12mo, cloth....

"Do you remem er St!c ee#, the ca#!#e hero o$ %oh# &u!r's do( story) Here !s a oo ythe ma# *ho o*#ed St!c ee# a#d *as &u!r's com+a#!o# o# the ad e#turous tr!+ amo#(the Alas a# (lac!ers. -h!s !s #ot o#ly a ree y outdoor oo , $ull o$ the *!ld eaut!es o$the Alas a# *!lder#ess, !t !s also a l! !#( +ortra!t o$ %oh# &u!r !# the (reat mome#ts o$h!s career."/ New York Times.

"I ca# see o#ly o#e $ault *!th the oo , !t !s $ar too short. I should lo e to read such a oo as !( as the d!ct!o#ary. -ha# you ery much0"/ Gene Stratton-Porter.

"O#e #eed #ot e a# adm!rer o$ %oh# &u!r to e thorou(hly e#terta!#ed y the l! ely +a(es. -he &u!r o$ th!s oo !s the $am!l!ar ! ra#t +erso#al!ty. -h!s l!ttle oo , therecord o$ these tr!+s, !s *r!tte# !# a style a#!mated a#d ! !d *!thout e!#( our#al!st!c/astyle #ot u#l! e that o$ the lo er o$ (lac!ers h!msel$."/ The Nation.

Adventures in Alaska

By

S. HALL YOUNG

Author of "Alaska Days with John Muir,"

"The lon!ike lan"

Illustrated


2/72

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3/72

Stal !#( =alrus !# a# Oom!a

Dr. You#('s $!(ure !s to the le$t. -h!s !s the t!me he (ot h!s ! ory $or the (a els

Foreword

-he author +uts $orth th!s l!ttle oo o$ actual ad e#tures !# the (reat #e* la#d o$ Alas a*!th the ho+e that !t *!ll a$$ord healthy?m!#ded you#( +eo+le a true !dea o$ some +haseso$ huma# a#d a#!mal l!$e there. -hese stor!es are +!c ed out o$ a# e@+er!e#ce o$ $ortyyears a#d selected *!th a !e* to oth u#!ty a#d ar!ety.

-he $!rst three cha+ters are a# attem+t to dra* !# old outl!#e some dramat!c e+!sodes o$the author's e@+er!e#ce !# the seco#d o$ the three (reat (old stam+edes o$ the North*est.All these stru((les $or (old ha e !# them r!chly dramat!c eleme#ts. L!$e !# such cam+s

+ulses stro#(ly *!th all huma# am !t!o#s, a$$ect!o#s a#d +ass!o#s. -he m!ss!o#ary, !$ he!s really to comme#d h!msel$ to the me# *ho rush !#to the *!lder#ess $or (old, a#d dothem (ood, must, $!rst o$ all, +ro e h!msel$ a man , ready a#d a le to do a#d su$$ere eryth!#( that $alls to the lot o$ the (old see ers. He must l! e the!r l!$e a#d +lay the(ame *!th them. He must cheer$ully +ut u+ *!th the +r! at!o#s they e#dure, must ta e thelead !# the!r healthy s+orts, must alle !ate the!r su$$er!#(s, a#d, ee+!#( h!msel$ $ree $romthe deadly (old?lust, must sho* that he has !# h!msel$ a#d ca# (! e to h!s $ello* +!o#eerssometh!#( etter tha# (old. H!s heart must e, $or h!msel$ a#d those a out h!m, a l! !#($ou#ta!# o$ oy a#d +eace.


4/72

As !# h!s earl!er *or , "-he lo#d! e la#," the author e#dea ored to dra* a true +!cture#ot o#ly o$ the l!$e a#d co#d!t!o#s o$ the $!rst North*ester# (old?rush, ut also o$ them!#!ster's a!ms a#d $!eld o$ duty so !# th!s short s etch o$ the seco#d Stam+ede h!s a!mhas ee#, a o e all th!#(s, truth . 5 ery !#c!de#t !s actual h!story, a#d e e# the #ames arereal. -he do( story !s also co#sc!e#t!ously true h!story, a#d elo#(s to o#e o$ the m!#or

(old stam+edes.

-he seco#d sect!o# o$ the oo /the three ear stor!es a#d the *alrus story/are also !tso$ h!story. 5 ery +!o#eer m!ss!o#ary !# Alas a should e a# arde#t hu#ter. -he author'sl!$e has o$te# de+e#ded u+o# h!s (u# a#d $!sh!#( tac le. 3or te# years !# Southeaster#Alas a he a#d h!s $am!ly had #o ee$ or +or or mutto#, ut the (ame/a#!mals, !rdsa#d $!sh/more tha# made u+ $or the lac o$ these.

I# I#ter!or Alas a the same co#d!t!o#s +re a!l. -he *!ld a#!mals $ur#!sh #ot o#ly the $oodo$ the +eo+le, oth #at! es a#d *h!tes, ut also the!r *!#ter cloth!#(. L!$e *ould eu# eara le there !# "s!@ty? elo* *eather" *ere the !#ha !ta#ts u#a le to +rocure the

*arm coats +ro !ded y !#dly &other Nature $or the use oth o$ her $our?$ooted a#d herhuma# ch!ldre#.

-he 5s !mo $aces the hardest co#d!t!o#s o$ almost a#y #at! e race !# h!s attle $or l!$ea#d yet he !s, +erha+s, the most com$orta le o$ a#y. He (ets h!s l! !#( $rom the Arct!cseas, the seal a#d *alrus e!#( h!s ma!# de+e#de#ce. 3rom the (reat *alrus he (ets meat,clam cho*der, l!(ht a#d $uel !ts s !# ma es h!s $oot?*ear, the *alls a#d roo$ o$ h!shouse, a#d h!s oats !ts ! ory $ur#!shes h!s tools a#d !m+leme#ts o$ the chase. =he# theauthor a#d h!s $r!e#ds rou(ht the (reat su++ly o$ *alrus meat to the 5s !mo !lla(e o$5ast a+e they !#sured the l!$e a#d com$ort o$ !ts !#ha !ta#ts $or the *!#ter. All th!s !s a#esse#t!al +art o$ a m!ss!o#ary's e#e$!ce#t *or . Good ser !ce $or God a#d huma#!ty !s

#ot !#co#s!ste#t *!th the oy o$ the chase.As the author co#$!de#tly e@+ects that ma#y o$ h!s you#( readers *!ll $!#d the!r

+erma#e#t homes !# "-he (reat !(, road la#d '*ay u+ yo#der," he ho+es th!s oo may +ro e, !# some de(ree, a# !#troduct!o# to the e# oyme#ts a#d ach!e eme#ts o$ the l!$ethere.

S. H. Y. New York.

Contents

I. -he Nome Stam+ede 1C

II. -he A# !l CC

III. Bu#ch?(rass B!ll 6
http://www.gutenberg.org/files/44077/44077-h/44077-h.htm#ChIhttp://www.gutenberg.org/files/44077/44077-h/44077-h.htm#ChIIhttp://www.gutenberg.org/files/44077/44077-h/44077-h.htm#ChIIIhttp://www.gutenberg.org/files/44077/44077-h/44077-h.htm#ChIhttp://www.gutenberg.org/files/44077/44077-h/44077-h.htm#ChIIhttp://www.gutenberg.org/files/44077/44077-h/44077-h.htm#ChIII


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I7. &y Do(s


6/72

o$ Au(ust. He *as to stay at the #e* m!#!#( to*# o$ 4am+art, u!ld a church there a#dlear# the oyous l!$e o$ a +!o#eer m!ss!o#ary.

=hat a >ueer m!@?u+ o$ me# o# the cro*ded dec s o$ the steam oat0 =!ld rumors o$ ar!d!culous sort had reached the ears o$ (old hu#ters clear u+ the t*o thousa#d m!les o$ the

s*!$t a#d croo ed Yu o# to Da*so#. Gold0 Not s#u(ly re+os!#( !# 2 the $ro e# (ra elo$ dee+ (ulches a#d ca#yo#s cut throu(h the h!(h h!lls/*here res+ecta le a#d orthodo@(old ou(ht to e ut (old o# the *!#d?s*e+t, stormy, treeless, e@+osed coast o$ Se*ard8e#!#sula/the to#(ue that !m+ude#t you#( Alas a st!c s out at old As!a. Gold, l! eyello* cor#?meal, !# the each?sa#ds o$ Ber!#( Sea, *here #o ody could la*$ully sta e acla!m, ut *here a#y ody could (o *!th sho el, +a# a#d roc er a#d (ather !t u+. Nu((etsa?+le#ty a#d coarse (old/e#t!c!#( shallo* d!((!#(s/!# the ed o$ A# !l ree a#dother cree s a#d ru#lets !# the h!lls, a#d the $lat tu#dra a out Nome.

-he re+orts o$ the #e* "str! e," o$te# *!ld a#d e@a((erated, came as a l!$e?sa er to *earya#d d!scoura(ed thousa#ds o$ lo#d! ers, *ho had +ac ed the!r out$!ts o er the terr! le

th!rty m!les o$ the h!lcoot 8ass !# the $all o$ '6< or the s+r!#( o$ '6;, sa*ed the lum erthemsel es !# the "armstro#( sa*m!ll," sa!led the!r clumsy oats throu(h the la es, shotthe ra+!ds o$ the U++er Yu o#, s+e#t the summer o$ '6; a#d the *!#ter that $ollo*edsur(!#( here a#d there o# "*!ldcat" stam+edes or +utt!#( do*# "dry" holes o#u#+ro$!ta le lays, a#d *ere C #o* ea(erly s#atch!#( at th!s #e* stra*, ho+!#( to "str! e!t" o# the Nome each. 3rom Da*so#, 3orty &!le, 5a(le, !rcle, 3ort Yu o# $rom *oodcam+s a#d +ros+ectors' te#ts alo#( the Yu o#, a#d #o* $rom 4am+art, these earded,

attered, su#? l!stered me# came rush!#( a oard the steam oat.

I had e#(a(ed a state?room e$ore the steam oat arr! ed, ut *he# !t came a +lacard o$the com+a#y o*#!#( the oat me#aced us !# the o$$!ce9 " All reser'ations %an%elle!. (oat

o'er%row!e!. No $assen&ers to )e taken at *am$art ."O$ course there *as a m!(hty ho*l $rom the 4am+art me#, #early hal$ o$ *hom had

+ac ed u+ to (o o# the oat. I hurr!ed to the +urser, *hom I #e*, a#d sho*ed my +ass$rom the ma#a(er o$ the com+a#y.

" a#'t hel+ !t, Doctor," he sa!d !# a loud to#e, $or the e#e$!t o$ the ysta#ders. "-he oat's +ast her l!m!t #o*, a#d *e're l!a le $or !( dama(es !$ a#yth!#( ha++e#s. =e ca#'tta e any)o!y ."

8rese#tly he slyly +ulled my arm, a#d I $ollo*ed h!m to a# !##er o$$!ce o$ the store. "Get

your (oods a oard," he d!rected. "You ca# s+read your la# ets o# the $loor o$ myo$$!ce."

=h!le I *as chec !#( o$$ my out$!t a#d see!#( !t o# oard, I #ot!ced a lot o$ the 4am+artme#, *!th ha#d?truc s (athered $rom the ar!ous stores, ta !#( the!r o*# out$!ts a oard,!(#or!#( the sh!++!#( cler a#d dum+!#( the!r (oods *here er they $ou#d a +lace to +utthem. -he o$$!cers a#d dec ?ha#ds *ere +rotest!#( a#d s*ear!#(, ut the me# *e#t r!(htalo#( load!#( the!r out$!ts.


7/72

8rese#tly the ca+ta!# +ulled the *h!stle ro+e a#d ordered the +la# dra*# !# a#d the ca lecast o$$ $rom the "dead ma#." I#sta#tly three me# marched to the ca le's e#d, se! ed thema# *ho *as to cast !t o$$ a#d held h!m. -he# $ully $!$ty me# *!th the!r +ac s o# the!r

ac s $!led do*# the +la# . -he $!rst mate tr!ed to sto+ them. He e e# made a mo e todra* h!s +!stol ut the $oremost ma#/a !( s!@?$ooter/thre* h!s arms arou#d h!m a#d

carr!ed h!m ac a(a!#st the sta!r*ay a#d held h!m u#t!l the me# *!th the!r +ac s *ere alla oard. It *as all do#e >u!etly, a#d *!th the utmost (ood humor. -he me# (r!##ed u+ atthe s*ear!#(, red?$aced ca+ta!# o# the u++er dec , a#d o#e shouted, "=e'll (! e you a :

+o e o$ dust, a+., *he# *e (et to Nome."

=he# all *ere a oard, some ody o# the a# cast o$$ the ca le, the s*!$t curre#t cau(htthe oat, the *heel ac ed, a#d *e s*u#( arou#d a#d headed do*# the Yu o#, ou#d $orthe #e* str! e.

=h!s ers *ere ery much !# e !de#ce !# that closely +ac ed mo o$ me# that stoodarou#d o# all the dec s, ste++!#( o# each other's $eet, +erch!#( o# sta!r*ays, o@es, +ole?

u# s/a#y*here $or a rest!#( +lace. -o (o $rom o#e +art o$ the oat to a#other *as ad!$$!cult +ro+os!t!o#.

-he most e !de#t tra!t o$ the cro*d *as !ts (ood #ature. -he dec ?ha#ds, amo#( *hom Ireco(#! ed a la*yer $r!e#d $rom Da*so# a#d a $ormer customs collector $rom %u#eau,*ere (old?see ers l! e all the rest a#d !t *as, "Hello, Shorty0" "Ah, there, Dutch0""=here you (o!#', %!m)" et*ee# them a#d the #e*comers. A roll!c !#(, ha++y?(o?luc ycro*d, all oy$ul at e!#( o# the *ay to the #e* d!((!#(s. 5 e# the o$$!cers o$ the oat

e(a# to sm!le, secretly +leased that they had a record? rea !#( a#d most +ro$!ta le loada oard, a#d *ere $ree $rom lame $or o erload!#(, E ecause they could #ot hel+ !t.

As $or me, I *as *ell co#te#t, e e# to e hustled a#d ostled a#d el o*?+u#ched y th!shorde o$ scra((ly? earded me# o$ the #orth*ester# *!lder#ess. -h!s *as my +ar!sh, myhome a#d these *ere my comrades, my chums, my rothers. I *as ust as su# ur#ed a#d*eather? eate# as they *ere, a#d $elt the same t!#(l!#( o$ #er es, the same lea+ o$ the

lood at the call o$ $resh ad e#ture.

I *as dressed !# the same sort o$ rou(h *oole# mac !#a* clothes a#d so$t $la##elu#der*ear as the me# arou#d me. I had le$t my cler!cal su!t a#d *h!te sh!rts a#d collars

eh!#d, $or three reaso#s9 3!rst, $or the sa e o$ eco#omy. -hese stro#(, loose (arme#tsd!d #ot cost a th!rd as much as roadcloth, a#d *ould *ear t*!ce as *ell. Bes!des, !t*ould cost a dollar a#d a hal$ to ha e a *h!te sh!rt lau#dered !# I#ter!or Alas a *h!ch, atthat t!me, *as t*!ce the or!(!#al cost o$ the sh!rtJ, a#d t*e#ty?$! e ce#ts to do u+ a collar,the cost +r!ce o$ *h!ch "outs!de" *as three $or a >uarter. I could *ash my $la##el sh!rtsmysel$. Seco#d, $or com$ort's sa e. -he so$t *ool o$ these (arme#ts *as so much *armera#d < more +l!a le tha# a "8r!#ce Al ert" su!t a#d a starched collar *ould sear o#e's#ec l! e $!re, *he# !t *as "s!@ty elo*." &y ch!e$ reaso#, ho*e er, *as that I *!shed tocreate #o art!$!c!al arr!ers et*ee# my +ar!sh!o#ers a#d mysel$. I *!shed to sta#d o# thesame soc!al le el. I des!red these me# to $eel that I *as o#e o$ them, a#d could cam+ a#d


8/72

"rustle," carry a +ac , l! e o# ra !ts a#d rou(h !t (e#erally as de$tly a#d cheer$ully asthey/l! e the same outdoor l!$e a#d e#dure the same so?called "hardsh!+s."

-he !e*?+o!#t o$ these "sour?dou(hs" *as sho*# !# a $u##y *ay at our $!rst la#d!#( +lace a$ter lea !#( 4am+art, *h!ch *as the l!ttle to*# o$ -a#a#a. =he# the oat t!ed u+,

the *h!stle (a e three shar+ hoots, sho*!#( that the stay *ould e ery short. As soo# asthe +la# *as ashore a ma# ra# u+ !t, a#d *he# he reached the dec he called loudly9 "Isthere a +reacher a oard) Is there a +reacher a oard)"

A (r! led old m!#er, *ho d!d #ot #o* me, +o!#ted to the o#ly ma# o# the steam oat*ho *ore a 8r!#ce Al ert coat a#d *h!te sh!rt a#d collar, a#d dra*led9 "=a?al, that there$eller, he's e!ther a +reacher or a ; (am ler I do#'t #o* *h!ch."

-he "dressed?u+" ma# +ro ed to e a (am ler. I made mysel$ #o*# to the a#@!ous ma#$rom the !lla(e, $ollo*ed h!m ashore a#d marr!ed h!m to a *oma# *ho *as *a!t!#( !#the com+a#y's o$$!ce.

-hat *as o#e oya(e o$ m!#(led d!scom$ort a#d +leasure. D!scom$orts a#d hardsh!+s areas you ma e them a#d ta e them. -here *ere a $e* o$ that com+a#y *ho (rum led a#ds*ore at e!#( cro*ded, at e!#( o l!(ed to sta#d u+ all day, to l!e o# the $loor or o# the

+!les o$ cord?*ood at #!(ht, es!des e!#( com+elled to $a!rly $!(ht $or the!r meals or to(et the!r $ood $rom the!r o*# !ts. But the ma or!ty o$ these me# had ee# cam+!#( a#drou(h!#( !t $or t*o years. &a#y o$ them had +ac ed hea y loads o er the h!lcoot 8ass!# the (reat lo#d! e Stam+ede, had made the!r o*# oats a#d #a !(ated hu#dreds o$m!les o$ u# #o*# a#d da#(erous r! ers, had e#cou#tered a#d o ercome thousa#ds o$u#tr!ed e@+er!e#ces. -o all o$ them these l!ttle d!scom$orts *ere tr!$les to e d!sm!ssed*!th a sm!le or o e, a#d they had co#tem+t $or a#y ma# *ho $ussed or com+la!#ed.

6

O#e o$ the cheer!est o$ the cro*d a oard the steam oat *as a #e*s oy t*el e or th!rtee#years old. H!s #ame *as %oe9 I #e er #e* h!s sur#ame. He had had a ery *o#der$ult!me. -he year e$ore/the summer o$ 1;6;/he *as sell!#( +a+ers !# Seattle. He heardo$ the h!(h +r!ces +a!d $or #e*s+a+ers a#d ma(a !#es at the cam+s o$ the North*est. He

ou(ht three or $our hu#dred co+!es o$ the Seattle 8. I. Post +ntelli&en%er J a#d Times . He +a!d t*o a#d a hal$ a#d three ce#ts a+!ece $or them, the sell!#( +r!ce at Seattle e!#( $! ece#ts. -he# he (ot $! e or s!@ hu#dred ac #um ers o$ these +a+ers, $rom a day to a*ee old, $or #oth!#(. He also (ot, mostly y (!$t $rom those *ho had read them, three or

$our hu#dred o$ the chea+er ma(a !#es, some #e*, some a mo#th or t*o old. 3or h!s*hole stoc he +a!d scarcely $!$tee# dollars.

%oe smu((led h!msel$ a#d h!s +a+ers a oard a steam oat ou#d $or S a(*ay, a#d *or edh!s +assa(e as ca !# oy, *a!ter a#d (e#eral rousta out. At %u#eau a#d S a(*ay he solda out o#e?$ourth o$ h!s +a+ers a#d ma(a !#es/the +a+ers $or t*e#ty?$! e ce#ts each a#dthe te#?ce#t ma(a !#es $or $!$ty ce#ts. He could ha e sold out, ut 1F hear!#( that hecould (et dou le these +r!ces at Da*so# a#d do*# the Yu o#, held o# to h!s stoc .


9/72

He $ormed a +art#ersh!+ *!th a# old "sour?dou(h" m!#er, *ho hel+ed h!m (et h!s +a+erso er the h!lcoot 8ass a#d do*# the Yu o# to Da*so#. At the (reat lo#d! e cam+ he>u!c ly sold out h!s +a+ers at a dollar each, a#d the ma(a !#es at a dollar a#d a hal$ tot*o a#d a hal$.

%oe s+e#t the *!#ter o$ 1;6;?6 at Da*so#, sell!#( the t*o +a+ers +u l!shed !# that c!tya#d ru##!#( a (e#eral #e*s sta#d, !# *h!ch he sold the read!#( matter he had sold e$ore ut (athered u+ a(a!# $rom the uyers. Somet!mes he sold the same ma(a !#e $our or $! et!mes.

=he# the Nome Stam+ede e(a#, %oe (ot !#to the (ood (races o$ the ma#a(er o$ thesteam oat com+a#y a#d (ot $ree +assa(e do*# the Yu o#. He shared my *ol$?ro e o#the $loor o$ the +urser's room, a#d *e ecame (reat chums. -he oy *as so r!(ht a#d>u!c , a#d at the same t!me so +ol!te a#d accommodat!#(, that he made $r!e#dse ery*here. He *as a Su#day?school oy, a#d d!str! uted my l!ttle red hym#? oo s*he# I held ser !ce !# the soc!al 11 hall o$ the steam oat o# Su#day, a#d h!s clear

so+ra#o sou#ded s*eetly a o e the ass #otes o$ the me#."%oe," I as ed h!m o#e day, "ho* much mo#ey ha e you made dur!#( the last year a#d ahal$)"

"=ell," he re+l!ed, "I se#t t*o thousa#d dollars out home $rom Da*so# e$ore I starteddo*# here, a#d *!th *hat I am ma !#( o# th!s tr!+ a#d *hat I ho+e to ma e at Nome, Ith!# I'll ha e $! e thousa#d dollars clear *he# I la#d at Seattle the last o$ Octo er."

"-hat's a da#(erous amou#t o$ mo#ey $or a small oy to ha e," I *ar#ed h!m. "Ha e youlost a#y o$ !t)"

%oe (r!##ed. "No, I dasse#'t. Some card shar+s tr!ed to (et me to (am le at Da*so#. -heysa!d I could dou le my mo#ey. But my +art#er the old m!#er sa!d he'd l!c me hal$ todeath !$ I e er *e#t #ear the (ree# ta les. I d!d#'t *a#t to, a#yho*. 5 ery ody hel+s meta e care o$ my mo#ey."

"=hat are you (o!#( to do *!th !t)"

"=hy, (! e !t all to mother, o$ course. She'll use !t $or me a#d my s!ster. I'm (o!#( toschool as soo# as I (et home. 12 &other *or s !# a store, ut I (uess th!s mo#ey'll (! eher a rest. She #eeds !t."

A *ord more a out l!ttle %oe e$ore I lea e h!m. He made (ood at Nome !# Se+tem er,a#d sa!led $or Seattle the last o$ Octo er. -he last I heard o$ h!m, $our or $! e years later,he *as ma !#( h!s *ay throu(h the U#! ers!ty o$ =ash!#(to#, a#d st!ll ma#a(!#(#e*s+a+er routes !# Seattle. H!s !s a case o$ e@ce+t!o#al (ood $ortu#e a#d yet I #o* o$a #um er o$ oys *ho ha e made remar a le sums sell!#( +a+ers !# Alas a. It !s a oy'sla#d o$ o++ortu#!ty as *ell as a ma#'s.


10/72

Our oya(e to St. &!chael *as a ted!ous o#e/do*# the lo#( stretches o$ the Lo*erYu o#, *orm!#( throu(h the sa#d? ars a#d muddy shallo*s o$ the !#term!#a le delta,*a!t!#( throu(h *eary hours $or t!de a#d *!#d to e ust r!(ht e$ore e#tur!#( out o#Ber!#( Sea. Hurry!#( at last u#der $ull steam throu(h the cho++y sea, *!th the *a es*ash!#( the lo*er dec a#d +roduc!#( +a#!c, u+roar a#d s*ear!#( amo#( the me#

+ac ed u+o# !t/*e came to the har or o$ St. &!chael o# the *!#d?s*e+t, treeless, mossyshore o$ Norto# Sou#d.

1C

I *as st!ll to *or my *ay throu(h a ta#(le o$ delays a#d ad e#tures e$ore I could reachmy (oal/the (reat #e* cam+ at Nome, o#e hu#dred a#d th!rty m!les $rom St. &!chael.

I had $!rst to (et my out$!t to(ether o# the *har$, cou#t!#( the o@es a#d *ar a(s, +ursu!#( the m!ss!#( o#es to other out$!ts a#d +ro !#( my cla!m to them. I# the co#$us!o#th!s *as a hard o , ut I o#ly lost t*o or three o$ my o@es. I +!led my (oods !# a cor#er

o$ the !( *arehouse o$ the North Amer!ca# -rad!#( a#d -ra#s+ortat!o# o., a#d set u+my te#t o# the each, $or I *as #ear the e#d o$ my mo#ey, a#d could #ot +ay the h!(h +r!ces char(ed at the hotels. I (ot !#to my cam+ !t a#d d!d my o*# coo !#(, +rotect!#(my $ood as est I could a(a!#st the th!e !sh 5s !mo do(s.

-he# e(a# a search, *h!ch lasted a *ee , $or mea#s o$ (ett!#( to Nome. -he (old?hu#ters *ere +utt!#( o$$ e ery day !# *hale oats, 5s !mo oomiaks , a#d small sloo+s a#dschoo#ers ut these cra$t *ere too small a#d u#certa!# $or me to r!s +assa(e !# them.&y caut!o# +ro ed *!se, $or $! e or s!@ o$ these small oats, a$ter sett!#( out, *ere #e erheard o$ a(a!#.

1=h!le I *as *a!t!#(, the U. S. 4e e#ue utter, (ear , came !#to the har or, a#d a oardher *as Sheldo# %ac so#, Su+er!#te#de#t o$ 5ducat!o# $or Alas a, the #oted +!o#eerm!ss!o#ary. He *as ust retur#!#( $rom a tour o$ the #at! e schools a#d re!#deer stat!o#s.

He *as the ma# *ho had !#troduced the re!#deer !#to Alas a $rom S! er!a to su++ly the*a#ts o$ the 5s !mo.J

"Hurry o# to Nome," he cou#seled me. "You *ere #e er #eeded more !# all your l!$e."

At le#(th there l!m+ed !#to the har or a l!ttle tu ?l! e s!de?*heel steam oat, elo#(!#( to

the Alas a 5@+lorat!o# om+a#y, *hose *har$ *as a m!le a#d a hal$ d!sta#t u+ thehar or. -here *as #o *ay o$ (ett!#( my (oods across the s*am+y tu#dra o$ St. &!chaelIsla#d to the *har$. O# the each I $ou#d a# a a#do#ed old ro* oat *!th o+e# seams. I

+rocured +!eces o$ oards, some oa um a#d +!tch, a#d set to *or to re+a!r the old oat.-he steam oat *as to sa!l $or Nome the #e@t $ore#oo#. I *or ed all #!(ht. I made a +a!ro$ clumsy oars out o$ oards. -he# I carr!ed my (oods to the lea y oat a#d ro*ed themto the doc . It too three tr!+s to tra#s$er my out$!t, a#d *h!le I *as ro*!#( 1: ac a#d


11/72

$orth some ody carr!ed o$$ my most alua le *ar? a(, co#ta!#!#( most o$ my $oot?*eara#d u#derclothes/o#e hu#dred dollars' *orth.

I *as a t!red ma# *he# I stum led do*# the stee+ sta!rs !#to the dar a#d stu$$y hold o$the l!ttle steam oat a#d much more t!red *he#, a$ter t*o a#d a hal$ days o$ seas!c #ess,

o !#( u+ a#d do*# !# the cho++y seas l! e a ma# o# a uc !#( ro#cho, I +ulled u+ thesta!rs a(a!# a#d let mysel$ do*# the ro+e?ladder !#to the dory *h!ch *as to ta e the +asse#(ers ashore at Nome.

"You ca# o#ly ta e *hat you ca# carry o# your ac ," a##ou#ced the ca+ta!#. "-here's astorm com!#( u+ a#d I' e (ot to hurry to the lee o$ Sled(e Isla#d, t*e#ty m!les a*ay.You'll (et your out$!ts *he# I come ac . Luc y *e're #ot all do*# !# Da y %o#es'sloc er."

I stra++ed my +ac ?sac , co#ta!#!#( my *ol$?ro e a#d a +a!r o$ la# ets, o# my ac ,(lad to (et ashore o# a#y terms. -he dory *allo*ed hea !ly !# the *a es, the stro#( *!#d

dr! !#( !t to*ards the sa#dy each. Boats ha e to a#chor $rom o#e to t*o m!les o$$shoreat Nome. =he# *e reached the each, a !( *a e l!$ted the 1E dory a#d s*u#( !ts!de*ays. -he eel struc the sa#d, a#d she tur#ed o er, dum+!#( us all out, the com ero er*helm!#( us a#d roll!#( us o er a#d o er l! e arrels. Dre#ched a#d attered, *ecra*led to la#d.

A hea y ra!# *as $all!#( as I sta((ered u+ the each *!th my *ater?soa ed la# ets o#my ac , loo !#( $or a lod(!#(?house. -he each *as l!#ed *!th te#ts, +laced *!thoutre(ard to order or the co# e#!e#ce o$ a#y ody e@ce+t the o*#er o$ each te#t. A $e*stra((l!#( oard?shac s *ere stuc here a#d there o# the s*am+y tu#dra. -*o or threelar(e, lo* store u!ld!#(s re+rese#ted the ar!ous +!o#eer trad!#( com+a#!es. -he o#e

street, *h!ch ra# +arallel to the each, *as $ull o$ mud. -he u!ld!#(s most !# e !de#ce*ere saloo#s, (e#erally *!th da#ce?hall attachme#ts. -he a se#ce o$ trees, the leade#,*ee+!#( s y, the mud, the s*am+y tu#dra, the *a#t o$ all l!(ht a#d eauty, made th!srece+t!o# the drear!est o$ all my e@+er!e#ces !# the #e* m!#!#( cam+s.


12/72

Nome, Alas a, Summer o$ 16FF

A c!ty o$ te#ts, t*e#ty m!les lo#(

But I lo#( a(o lear#ed that #oth!#( !s so ad ut that !t m!(ht e *orse. I had #ot at thatt!me see# 5dmu#d 7a#ce oo 's sturdy l!#es, ut the s+!r!t o$ them *as !# my 1< heart9

"D!d you tac le the trou le that came your *ay =!th a resolute heart a#d cheer$ul, Orh!de your $ace $rom the l!(ht o$ day =!th a cra e# heart a#d $ear$ul) Oh, a trou le's a to#or a trou le's a# ou#ce, Or a trou le !s *hat you ma e !t A#d !t !s#'t the $act that you'rehurt that cou#ts, But o#ly, ho* d!d you ta e !t0"

I soo# $ou#d a s!(# *r!tte# !# charcoal o# the l!d o$ a +a+er o@/ o!&in& . I e#tered therou(h u!ld!#( a#d $ou#d a cheery Ir!sh *oma# #amed &'Grath. -here *as #o $ur#!ture!# the house e@ce+t t*o or three chea+ cha!rs a#d a home?made oard ta le.

"Shure, ye ca#," she a#s*ered !# re+ly to my >uest!o# a out s+e#d!#( the #!(ht there."Ye'll s+read yer ro e a#' la# ets o# the $lure, a#' !t'll o#ly cost ye a dollar a#' $our !ts.Ye'll +la e +ay !# ad a#ce."

I too stoc o$ the co#te#ts o$ my +oc et oo . -here *as ust $! e dollars a#d a >uarterle$t o$ the thousa#d dollars *!th *h!ch I had started $rom home o# the $!rst o$ &ay. It *as#o* the $!rst o$ Se+tem er, a#d #o more mo#ey *as due me u#t!l the 1; #e@t s+r!#(. &y$ood a#d te#t *ere o# the steam oat a#d *ould #ot e l! ely to come ashore $or ma#y


13/72

days. It *as Su#day e e#!#(, a#d a *hole *ee must ela+se e$ore I could ta e u+ acollect!o#.

I +a!d my la#dlady a#d she +ut my la# ets y her sto e to dry. I +a!d a#other dollar a#da hal$ $or a su++er o$ ea#s a#d $la+? ac s/the $!rst $ood I had tasted $or three days. I

sle+t sou#dly that #!(ht o# the $loor, *!thout a care or a#@!ety. -he #e@t mor#!#( I +a!da#other dollar a#d a hal$ $or rea $ast, a#d could #ot res!st the tem+tat!o# o$ +urchas!#( aSeattle +a+er o#ly three *ee s old/*hat a lu@ury0J. I had ust t*e#ty?$! e ce#ts le$t/ a#d I *as a stra#(er !# th!s stra#(e cor#er o$ the earth0

I could #ot hel+ lau(h!#( at my +red!came#t as I e#tered the Alas a 5@+lorat!o#om+a#y's store. A earded ma# sta#d!#( y the sto e ade me "(ood?mor#!#(."

"You seem to e +leased a out someth!#(," he sa!d. "Ha e you struc !t r!ch)"

"=ell, yes0" I re+l!ed "a r!ch o e o# me," a#d I told h!m o$ the $!@ I *as !#.

"=hat) You are Dr. You#()" he e@cla!med, sha !#( me heart!ly y the ha#d. 16 "=hy,I'm a 8res yter!a# elder $rom Sa# 3ra#c!sco."

-he ma#'s #ame *as 3!c us, a car+e#ter, *ho had come to Nome to u!ld the store a#d*arehouses o$ o#e o$ the !( com+a#!es. He had held the $!rst rel!(!ous meet!#(s !# the#e* cam+ a#d had $ou#d >u!te a c!rcle o$ hr!st!a# +eo+le.

He o$$ered to le#d me mo#ey, ut I re$used to ta e !t. "No," I sa!d, "let us *a!t a#d see*hat ha++e#s."

Someth!#( ha++e#ed ery >u!c ly. =h!le *e *ere tal !#( a you#( ma# e#tered the storea#d came u+ to me.

"I u#dersta#d that you are a m!#!ster," he sa!d.

"Yes," I re+l!ed. "=hat ca# I do $or you)"

"You ca# marry me to the est *oma# !# Alas a."

"Is she here)" I as ed, *!th a tr!um+ha#t sm!le at 3!c us.

"Oh, yes she came o# the last oat $rom Seattle."

"=he# do you *!sh the ceremo#y to ta e +lace)" I !#>u!red.

"4!(ht #o*," he re+l!ed. "You ca#'t t!e the #ot too >u!c ly to su!t me."

2F


14/72

I $ollo*ed the ea(er you#( ma#, marr!ed h!m to a #!ce?loo !#( (!rl *ho *as *a!t!#( !# a#ear? y ca !#, rece! ed a *edd!#(?$ee o$ t*e#ty dollars, a#d retur#ed to my #e*ly?$ou#d$r!e#d *!th the assura#ce that my *a#ts *ere su++l!ed u#t!l my out$!t *ould comeashore.

-h!s *as my !#troduct!o# to the seco#d (reat (old cam+ o$ the North*est/the ra*,cra y, co#$used stam+ede o$ Nome.

21

II

-H5 AN7IL

-he $!rst t*o (reat (old cam+s o$ the North*est *ere ery d!$$ere#t, althou(h lar(elycom+osed o$ the same mater!al. I# +hys!cal $eatures they *ere most u#l! e. -he lo#d! e*as !# the (reat, eaut!$ul, mou#ta!#ous, $orested I#ter!or Nome *as o# the lea ,treeless, lo*, e@+osed coast o$ Ber!#( Sea. -o reach the lo#d! e you steamed $romSeattle throu(h t*el e hu#dred m!les o$ the *o#der$ul "I#s!de 8assa(e," ro e throu(hthe cha!# o$ s#o*y mou#ta!#s y the h!lcoot 8ass, a#d, !# your rou(h ro* oat, shotdo*# the s!@ hu#dred m!les o$ the u#tamed a#d u#tamea le Yu o#. Or else you sa!ledt*e#ty?three hu#dred m!les o er the hea !#( 8ac!$!c a#d the cho++y Ber!#( Sea to St.&!chael, a#d the# steamed la or!ously a(a!#st the st!$$ curre#t o$ the same 3ather Yu o#e!(htee# hu#dred m!les u$ to Da*so#. -o reach Nome you s!m+ly steamed the t*e#ty?three hu#dred m!les o$ 8ac!$!c Ocea# a#d 22 Ber!#( Sea or, !$ you *ere u+ the Yu o#,came do*# !t to St. &!chael a#d across Norto# Sou#d a hu#dred a#d $!$ty m!les to Nome.

-hou(h o# the same +arallel o$ #orth lat!tude, the cl!mates o$ the t*o cam+s are eryu#l! e. I# the lo#d! e you ha e the l!(ht, dry, hot a!r o$ summer the l!(ht, dry, %ol! a!ro$ *!#ter. -here are lo#( +er!ods *he# the s y !s cloudless. I# the summer o$ u# ro e#day the la#d dro*ses, athed !# *arm su#sh!#e a#d humm!#( *!th !#sect l!$e, #o reatho$ a!r sha !#( the as+e#s !# the *!#ter o$ almost u# ro e# ut lum!#ous #!(ht, the S+!r!to$ the North roods l! e %ames =h!tcom 4!ley's Lu(u r!ous =h!#(?*ha#(,

" rouch!#( lo* y the *!#d!#( cree s, A#d hold!#( h!s reath $or *ee s a#d *ee s."

-here are #o *!#d?storms !# the lo#d! e, a#d a la# et o$ $!#e, dry s#o* co ers the la#d!# u# ary!#( de+th o$ o#ly a $oot or t*o.

O# Se*ard 8e#!#sula, the S+!r!t o$ =!#ter reathes hard, a#d hurls h!s s#o*?lade# lasts*!th $ear$ul eloc!ty o er the !cy *astes. -he s#o* $alls to (reat de+th, a#d 2C #e er l!esst!ll !# o#e +lace. It dr!$ts, a#d *!ll co er your house com+letely u#der !# o#e #!(ht, a#d

+ac so hard that the 5s !mo ca# dr! e h!s re!#deer team o er your roo$ !# the mor#!#(.-he a!r ecomes so $ull o$ the $ly!#( +art!cles that you ca##ot see the lead?do( o$ yourteam. &e# ha e lost the!r *ay !# the streets o$ Nome a#d *a#dered out o# the tu#dra to


15/72

the!r death. -here !s co#s!dera le su#sh!#e !# the summer, a#d some com+arat! ely st!lldays, ut there !s much ra!#, a#d mossy s*am+s are e ery*here.

-he me# at Nome !# the $all o$ '66 !#cluded ma#y *ho had ee# at Da*so# !# '6


16/72

A# !l 4oc . O erloo !#( Nome

3or the #ame "Nome" t*o e@+la#at!o#s are (! e#. It !s sa!d that the Amer!ca# a#da#ad!a# sur eyors *ho *ere lay!#( out the +ro ected =ester# U#!o# -ele(ra+h L!#e

across the Amer!ca# a#d As!at!c o#t!#e#ts, $a!led to $!#d a #ame $or th!s ca+e a#d *rote!t do*# "No #ame," *h!ch *as a$ter*ards shorte#ed to Nome. -he more +ro a lee@+la#at!o# !s that the sur eyors as ed a# 5s !mo the #ame o$ the ca+e. No* the 5s !mo#e(at! e !s "No?me," a#d the ma# #ot u#dersta#d!#(, or #ot #o*!#( !ts #ame sa!d "No?me." -h!s *as *r!tte# do*# a#d +ut o# the ma+ as the #ame.

But I l! e A# !l, a#d s+o e a#d oted $or that #ame at the $!rst to*# meet!#(, held soo#a$ter I la#ded at the #e* cam+. 3or the cam+ has ee# a +lace o$ hard #oc s $rom the$!rst. 4u((ed me# ha e come 2E there to meet se ere co#d!t!o#s a#d ha e ee#hammered a#d ro e# y the lo*s o$ ad ers!ty. Others ha e ee# sha+ed a#d moulded

y $!ery tr!al a#d "the lud(eo#!#(s o$ cha#ce." =he# I see that sto#e a# !l I th!# o$-e##yso#'s !#s+!red l!#es9

"3or l!$e !s #ot a# !dle ore, But !ro#, du( $rom ce#tral (loom, A#d heated hot *!th ur#!#( $ears, A#d d!+t !# aths o$ h!ss!#( tears, A#d attered *!th the shoc s o$ doom,-o sha+e a#d use."

I *as attered as hard as a#y o#e o# th!s a# !l o$ the North*est ut to?day I $eel #oth!#( ut (rat!tude $or the se ere e@+er!e#ce.


17/72

I had to *a!t u#t!l Saturday e$ore the l!ttle steamer o# *h!ch I came $rom St. &!chaelretur#ed $rom the shelter o$ Sled(e Isla#d a#d +ut my (oods ashore. I# the mea#t!me Ihad o ta!#ed +erm!ss!o# to s+read my la# ets o# the $loor o$ the Alas a 5@+lorat!o#

om+a#y's store. Dur!#( that $!rst *ee *e had co#sta#t storms. 3! e or s!@ essels *eredr! e# ashore a#d ro e# u+ y the !ole#ce o$ the *a es.

2ua!#ta#ce, &!#or Bruce,*hom I had #o*# $!$tee# years e$ore *he# he *as a trader !# Southeaster# Alas a. Heo$$ered me the use o$ the lo$t o er h!s $ur store. &r. 3!c us, the ma# $rom Sa# 3ra#c!sco,to *hom I ha e made re$ere#ce !# a $ormer cha+ter, $!@ed u+ some seats. I (ot my or(a#carr!ed u+ the ladder a#d $ou#d s!#(ers. "%ud(e" &cNulty, a la*yer $r!e#d *ho *asha#dy *!th crayo#s, made $a#cy +osters out o$ some +aste oard o@es I had (ot $rom the

store.-he $loor o$ Bruce's store *as cluttered *!th 5s !mo muc luc s, ales o$ ha!r?seal s !#s,a#d other u#sa ory art!cles a#d a# old 5s !mo *oma#, *ho had her lo*er l!+ a#d ch!#tattooed do*#*ards !# strea s a$ter the $ash!o# o$ these +eo+le, sat amo#( the s !#s,che*!#( *alrus h!des a#d sha+!#( them !#to soles $or muc luc s, *h!le the co#(re(at!o#*as (ather!#(. O#e usher rece! ed the +eo+le at the store door, steered them care$ully

et*ee# the ales a#d s !#s, a#d headed them to a#other *ho hel+ed 2; them u+ thestee+ sta!r*ay, *h!le a th!rd seated them. =e had a (ood co#(re(at!o# a#d a rous!#(meet!#(. Our cho!r *as o#e o$ the est I e er heard. Our or(a#!st a#d leader *as Dr.Hum+hrey, a de#t!st, *ho had ee# d!rector o$ a lar(e chorus a#d cho!r &r. Bee e, our

ch!e$ ar!to#e, had su#( !# the cho!r o$ St. 8aul's 5+!sco+al hurch o$ Oa la#d, al. a#dthere *ere other +ro$ess!o#als. I (! e these deta!ls as a ty+!cal e(!##!#( !# a $ro#t!ercam+. -here !s al*ays $!#e tale#t o$ all sorts !# a #e* (old to*#.

Let me (! e r!(ht here t*o or three !#sta#ces o$ the read o$ !#d#ess "cast u+o# the*aters" a#d "$ou#d a$ter ma#y days." No*here !s th!s B! le say!#( o$te#er real! ed tha#!# the $r!e#dly *!lder#ess.

O#e o$ the $!rst me# I met at Nome *as a# old olorado m!#er, *hom I had #o*# atDa*so#. I had do#e h!m some !#d#ess at the lo#d! e cam+ dur!#( the !ll#ess a#d a$terthe death o$ h!s #e+he*. =he# he $ou#d me at Nome he (reeted me *armly. "You're ustthe ma# I' e ee# loo !#( $or. I #o* you do#'t do a#y m!#!#(, ut I'm (o!#( to do some$or you. I e@+ect to (o 'outs!de' !# a $e* days. You come out o# 26 the tu#dra *!th meto?morro*, a#d I'll sta e some (rou#d $or you the# I'll ta e your +a+ers out *!th me a#dtry to sell the cla!ms."

I *e#t *!th h!m a#d he mar ed o$$ three cla!ms $or me, *h!ch he had already selected.-he #e@t s+r!#(, *he# my lo#( !ll#ess had +lu#(ed me dee+ly !#to de t a#d I *as*o#der!#( ho* I could +ay my o l!(at!o#s, my old $r!e#d retur#ed *!th a thousa#d


18/72

dollars, $rom the sale o$ o#e o$ my cla!ms. I +a!d my doctor's !lls a#d the other de ts,a#d re o!ced. It *as as mo#ey thro*# do*# to me $rom hea e#, !# my t!me o$ d!re #eed.

At Da*so#, !# the summer o$ '6;, I hel+ed a# old G. A. 4. ma# $rom &!ssour!. He had ee# s!c *!th the scur y a#d *as dro*#ed out y the s+r!#( $reshets a#d dr! e# to the

roo$ o$ h!s ca !#, *here I $ou#d h!m hel+less a#d hal$?de oured y mos>u!toes. I ra!sedmo#ey $or h!s #eed a#d se#t h!m out home y o#e o$ the $!rst steam oats do*# theYu o#. Be$ore he le$t he +ressed u+o# me the o#ly (!$t he could o$$er/a $!#e 8ar ershot(u#. I too th!s (u# *!th me *he# I *e#t to sta e my cla!ms a#d a((ed a lot o$

+tarm!(a# a#d a #um er o$ t!mes a$ter*ards I shot others o$ CF these del!c!ous *!ldch!c e#s *!th !t. A#d *he# I *as ta e# !ll a#d my mo#ey all s+e#t, I *as a le to sell the(u# $or a (oodly sum.

O#e more l!# !# th!s cha!# o$ !#d#ess9 =he# my (oods came ashore a#d I *as a le toset u+ my te#t, I $ou#d t*o me#, o#e a Nor*e(!a#, the other a &!ch!(a#der, oth o$*hom had ust arr! ed, *!thout a shelter. I too them !#to my te#t. -hey hel+ed me to

mo e my (oods, made me a cot a#d $!@ed u+ ta les, o@?cha!rs a#d shel es $or me. -he Nor*e(!a# *as a ery $!#e coo a#d a ed my "sh!c e#s" $or me most del!c!ously. I e+tthe me# !# my te#t u#t!l they could u!ld a ca !#. =he# I ecame !ll they *ould come tosee me, r!#(!#( +tarm!(a# roth a#d other del!cac!es a#d *he# I *as co# alesc!#( a#dra e#ous the Nor*e(!a# came a(a!# a#d a(a!# to my ca !#, r!#(!#( "sh!c e#s $or &r.Khu#(," a#d roasted them $or me, ser !#( them *!th h!s $amous #ut? utter (ra y. I# thela#(ua(e o$ the North*est, "I d!d#'t do a th!#( to those ch!c e#s." O$ all +laces !# the*orld, I th!# Alas a !s most $ru!t$ul !# retur# $or l!ttle acts o$ !#d#ess.

C1

&e# such as I ha e ust descr! ed *ere +ure metal, a#d the hea y lo*s they rece! ed o#the a# !l o#ly made the!r characters more eaut!$ul a#d e$$!c!e#t.

It *as !# the metal o$ the me# themsel es/*hat th!s hard l!$e *ould do $or them. Some!t made/some !t ru!#ed. Amo#( the "Luc y S*edes," *ho lea+ed !# a $e* mo#ths $rom

+o erty to *ealth y the d!sco ery o$ (old !# A# !l ree , three $orm a ty+!cal!llustrat!o#.

O#e *as a m!ss!o#ary to the 5s !mos, o# a small salary. At $!rst h!s (old (a e h!m much +er+le@!ty a#d trou le *h!le he *as e!#( sha+ed to $!t #e* co#d!t!o#s ut he rose $!#elyto the occas!o#, (a e a lar(e +art o$ h!s *ealth to h!s church oard $or u!ld!#( m!ss!o#s

a#d schools amo#( the #at! es, a#d +ursued h!s hr!st!a# *ay, ho#ored a#d elo ed, to roader +aths o$ (reater use$ul#ess.

A seco#d S*ede *as also a m!ss!o#ary, teach!#( the l!ttle 5s !mos o# a salary o$ s!@hu#dred dollars a year. H!s (old com+letely tur#ed h!s head. He $ell a# easy +rey todes!(#!#( me# a#d *ome#. He ecame d!ss!+ated a#d ro e# !# ody a#d character. Hetr!ed to ee+ $or h!s o*# use the (old ta e# $rom the cla!m he had C2 sta ed !# the #ameo$ h!s &!ss!o#. H!s Board sued h!m $or the!r r!(hts. Lo#( l!t!(at!o#, !# *h!ch he $!(ured


19/72

as d!sho#est, sel$!sh a#d (ras+!#(, $ollo*ed, h!s church (ett!#( o#ly a small +art o$ !tsdues. -he last I heard o$ h!m he *as a mere *rec o$ a ma#, d!s(raced, des+!sed a#dshu##ed y h!s $ormer $r!e#ds. -he a# !l atter!#(, the tr!al y $!re, the hard lo*s,

+ro ed h!m ase metal.

-he th!rd ma# *as a S*ed!sh sa!lor a#d lo#(shorema#, !(#ora#t a#d lo*, l! !#( a ha#d?to?mouth, sord!d l!$e, *!th #o +ros+ects o$ ho#or or *ealth. H!s (old at $!rst +lu#(ed h!m!#to a *!ld or(y o$ (am l!#( a#d d!ss!+at!o#. He too the ty+ho!d $e er a#d *as ta e#"outs!de." 5 ery ody +ro+hes!ed that he *ould s!m+ly "(o the +ace" to com+letedestruct!o#.

But there *as true steel !# h!s com+os!t!o#. H!s moral $! er st!$$e#ed. He e(a# to th!#a#d study. He ro e a*ay $rom h!s dru# e# assoc!ates. He sou(ht the com+a#!o#sh!+ o$the cultured. A (ood *oma# marr!ed a#d educated h!m. He has ecome o#e o$ Alas a's*ealth!est a#d most !#$lue#t!al c!t! e#s, a#d h!s char!t!es a ou#d. -he ster# a# !l sha+edh!m to *orld?use$ul#ess. CC It !s all !# the man 0

Here at Nome I $!rst made the ac>ua!#ta#ce o$ that stra#(e race !# *h!ch I a$ter*ards ecame so much !#terested/the 5s !mo. At $!rst they *ere a source o$ co#s!dera lea##oya#ce. I al*ays $elt l! e lau(h!#( aloud *he# the >ueer, $at, d!sh?$aced, +ud(y $olcame !# s!(ht. As *e had to de+e#d u+o# dr!$t*ood $or our $uel, they *ould come se eralt!mes a day, r!#(!#( hu(e as et$uls o$ the so((y st!c s $or sale at $!$ty ce#ts a as et.

-hey soo# lear#ed that I *as a m!ss!o#ary, a#d the# they *ould come roll!#( alo#(, $ortyor $!$ty o$ them at a t!me, a#d " u#ch u+" !# $ro#t o$ my te#t. I$ I *ere coo !#( d!##erthey *ere sure to (ather !# $ull $orce, a#d *ould l!$t u+ the $la+ o$ my te#t, (r!##!#( at mea#d eye!#( e ery mouth$ul I ate. I d!d #ot #o* e#ou(h o$ the!r la#(ua(e e e# to tell

them to (o a*ay. -he!r ra# #at! e odors *ere o er+o*er!#( !# the hot te#t. You coulddetect the +rese#ce o$ o#e o$ those $ello*s hal$ a m!le a*ay !$ the *!#d *ere lo*!#($rom h!m to you. -he com !#ed smells o$ a com+a#y o$ #at! es, #ot o#e o$ *hom hade er ta e# a ath !# h!s or her l!$e, a#d *ho l! ed u+o# a#c!e#t C $!sh a#d "r!+e" seal

lu er/*ell, I'll sto+ r!(ht here0

O#e e e#!#( at a soc!al !# our *arehouse?church *e +layed the "l!mer!c " (ame, *h!ch*as the# a +o+ular cra e. =e *ould ta e a *ord a#d each o#e *ould *r!te a erse o# !t.O#e o$ the *ords *as 5s>u!mau@. A #um er o$ the "l!mer!c s" *ere +u l!shed !# the

Nome Nu&&et . =!th a ma#'s usual e(ot!sm I ca# o#ly remem er my o*#, *h!ch I sa* at!#ter als $or se eral years !# 5aster# +er!od!cals9

"Oh, loo at th!s >ueer 5s>u!mau@0 H!s #ose !s too +ud(y to lau@. H!s odors are a*$ul-o tell them u#la*$ul. -he thou(ht o$ them $!lls me *!th *au@."

O#e day I *as (ett!#( d!##er !# my te#t a#d the usual com+a#y o$ #at! es *atch!#( the +er$orma#ce, *he# there came alo#( a cou+le o$ me# *ho had ust la#ded a#d *ho,e !de#tly, had #e er see# a# 5s !mo e$ore. I o erheard the!r co# ersat!o#.


20/72

"Say, %!m," sa!d o#e, " ust loo there. D!d you e er see the l! e)" A +ause.J "Say, do youth!# them th!#(s has souls)"

C:

"=e?e?ll," dra*led %!m, "I rec o# they must ha e. -hey're huma# e!#'s. But I'll tell youth!s9 I$ they do, they' e all (ot to (o to hea e#, sure $or the de !l'd #e er ha e themarou#d."

No* let me tell you a se>uel9 -*o years a$ter*ards I *as a omm!ss!o#er $rom the#e*ly or(a#! ed 8res ytery o$ Yu o# to the Ge#eral Assem ly, *h!ch met at8h!ladel+h!a. &y $ello* omm!ss!o#er $rom the 8res ytery/the elder *ho sat y mys!de/*as 8eter oo#ooya, a# 5s !mo elder $rom U ea ! hurch, 8o!#t Barro*. -e#years earl!er, Dr. Sheldo# %ac so#, the# Su+er!#te#de#t o$ 5ducat!o# $or Alas a, had

!s!ted that #orther#most +o!#t o$ the o#t!#e#t a#d had started a school a#d m!ss!o#.8eter oo#ooya *as o#e o$ the $ru!ts. He *as a #at! e o$ e@traord!#ary !#tell!(e#ce, a

ma# o$ +ro+erty, o*#!#( a $leet o$ *hal!#( oomiaks . He could read, *r!te a#d tal5#(l!sh, *as a co#sta#t stude#t o$ the B! le, a#d *as co#s!dered y the 8res ytery o$su$$!c!e#t !#tell!(e#ce a#d +!ety to re+rese#t us !# the su+reme ou#c!l o$ the hurch.

I am >u!te certa!# that 8eter al*ays oted e@actly r!(ht o# all >uest!o#s *h!ch *ere u+ e$ore that Assem ly ecause he *atched me ery closely a#d oted as I CE d!d.

I *as a le, the#, a#d !# a$ter years, to do these (e#tle, (ood?#atured #at! es some (ood,a#d other hr!st!a# teachers ha e do#e much more $or them. So !t comes a out that theco#d!t!o# o$ the Alas a 5s !mo, u#der the !#$lue#ce o$ the ar!ous hr!st!a# m!ss!o#s a#dschools amo#( them, as com+ared *!th that o$ the!r rothers a#d s!sters o$ the same race

across Ber!#( Stra!t !# As!a, $or *hom #oth!#( !# a hr!st!a# *ay has ee# do#e, !s asday to #!(ht. -hey are +l!a le metal, a#d the A# !l o$ the North*est !s sha+!#( them !#toessels a#d !m+leme#ts o$ use$ul#ess a#d ho#or.


21/72

-he Odor!$erous ut I#terest!#( 5s !mo

-*o o$ Dr. You#('s 8ar!sh!o#ers

Cu!etlysa!d to the cash!er, "=e!(h h!m out t*o ou#ces C2.FFJ."

"Oh, I remem er you #o*, a#d your t*o ou#ces," I sa!d to B!ll a#d to the others, "I ca#ouch $or h!s #o*!#( the Seco#d C6 De(ree o$ the order, at least."

I *as made cha!rma# o$ the 4el!e$ omm!ttee o$ the lu , a#d $ou#d *or a?+le#ty cutout $or me. Althou(h the mem ers o$ the lu d!d #ot loo *!th !#d!$$ere#ce u+o# a#ycase o$ d!stress, yet !ts +r!me o ect *as to loo u+ a#d hel+ the s!c Odd 3ello*s. I

+re+ared a ullet!# a#d tac ed !t u+ !# the stores a#d saloo#s, d!rect!#( that a#y cases o$d!stress amo#( the mem ers o$ the order should e re+orted to the omm!ttee. As thety+ho!d e+!dem!c !#creased !# !rule#ce, the lu $ou#d !ts ha#ds $ull.

A day or t*o a$ter th!s $!rst meet!#(, I *as +ass!#( B!ll's saloo# *he# he called me !#.

"I' e ust heard o$ a s!c ma#," he re+orted, "a#d I th!# he's a# Odd 3ello*." -he#, a$ter

a +ause, he added, "But !$ he !s#'t that does#'t ma e a // !t o$ d!$$ere#ce."He led the *ay alo#( the each $or hal$ a m!le or more, to a# !solated te#t, *here *e$ou#d the ty+ho!d case. B!lly stayed u#t!l he made sure that the ma# *as *ell cared $or !#the char(e o$ $r!e#ds a#d a (ood +hys!c!a#. -he# he too me as!de a#d sl!++ed a t*e#ty?dollar (old +!ece !#to my F ha#d. "Use that $or h!m," he d!rected.

-he #e@t day I had to ra!se a hu#dred a#d $!$ty dollars to se#d a# old m!#er *ho *as +oora#d cr!++led "outs!de." I marched at o#ce to the "Beach Saloo#." "B!lly," I sa!d, "th!s old?t!mer has lo*# !# all h!s dust $or oo e a#d !t's u+ to you *ho ha e (ot !t $rom h!m tota e care o$ h!m #o*."

"-hat's r!(ht," he +rom+tly a#s*ered. "-here's te# saloo#s *hat *ould e my share)"

"A# ou#ce," I re+l!ed, +ass!#( h!m the +a+er.

He *e!(hed out the (old dust. "=a!t a *h!le e$ore (o!#( o#. I'll +ass the *ord do*# thel!#e," he sa!d.


23/72

Hal$ a# hour a$ter*ards I sto++ed a(a!# at h!s door. "-hey're all ready," re+orted B!ll. "I$a#y o$ them (uys do#'t come across, ust tell me."

-hey all "came across," a#d therea$ter, u#t!l I le$t Nome, all the saloo#? ee+ers met e erydema#d I made u+o# them *!thout >uest!o#. =he# a ma# had ee# !m+o er!shed or

made s!c throu(h dr!# I *e#t to the saloo#s, only , $or h!s rel!e$. I# other cases I made a(e#eral ca# ass. 1 =he# collect!#( mo#ey $or church +ur+oses I *e#t to e ery ody,e %e$t the saloo#? ee+ers a#d the!r $ollo*!#(.

-he day e$ore my seco#d meet!#( *!th the Odd 3ello*s' lu /a ra!#y, luster!#( day /I came to Bu#ch?(rass B!ll *!th a (reater dema#d.

"It !s you I *a#t th!s t!me, B!lly, #ot ust your mo#ey," I sa!d. "-here !s a s!c Odd3ello* !# a te#t almost a m!le $rom here. He !s alo#e a#d ly!#( !# a +uddle o$ *ater. Getyour (um? oots a#d $!#d three or $our other stout me# a#d come *!th me."

B!ll a(reed at o#ce, $ou#d a ma# to te#d h!s ar, secured a s>uad o$ stro#( a#d *!ll!#(me#, a stretcher $rom the army +ost a#d a (ood +hys!c!a# a#d *e#t *!th me o# the erra#do$ mercy. He *or ed all day !# the mud a#d ra!#. He carr!ed the s!c ma# to the*arehouse *h!ch *e had tur#ed !#to a tem+orary hos+!tal, !s!ted all the stores !# a#attem+t to $!#d mattresses, a#d, $a!l!#( !# that, ou(ht e!(ht lar(e re!#deer s !#s a#d +!ledthem o# the $loor $or a ed, ou(ht u#der*ear, dry la# ets a#d other com$orts $or thes!c ma#, a#d la!d !# a su++ly o$ del!cac!es $or the use o$ the hos+!tal. I# all, he s+e#to er $!$ty dollars a#d a *hole day 2 o$ stre#uous *or u+o# the case.

=he# I as ed h!m at dus !$ he *ere #ot t!red he lau(hed9 "Ne er had a etter t!me !# allmy l!$e."

-hat #!(ht *as the re(ular *ee ly meet!#( o$ the lu . I made my re+ort, *h!ch *as>u!te lo#(, a#d me#t!o#ed ma#y d!stress!#( cases, sho*!#( a# alarm!#( !#crease o$ thety+ho!d. -he# I as ed $or a rotary rel!e$ comm!ttee o$ three to e chose# at e ery othermeet!#(, a#d a +erma#e#t rel!e$ comm!ttee o$ t*o.

"I' e $ou#d the !((est?hearted ma# !# all Alas a," I sa!d. "H!s us!#ess a#d m!#e are #ot>u!te the same. I# $act I ha e ee# all my l!$e $!(ht!#( saloo#s a#d saloo#? ee+ers, a#d Ie@+ect to ee+ o# $!(ht!#( them u#t!l I d!e. But th!s ma#'s heart o$ lo e $or h!s $ello*?me# $!(hts h!s us!#ess harder tha# I ca#."

-he# I related some o$ the th!#(s B!lly had do#e dur!#( the +ast *ee , a#d e#ded mys+eech y as !#( that he e +ut o# the +erma#e#t rel!e$ comm!ttee *!th me. "=e t*o *!ll$!#d the s!c a#d cut out the *or $or the rest o$ you," I +rom!sed.

-he lu a++lauded, much to the co#$us!o# o$ B!ll, *ho tr!ed h!s est to shr!# out C o$s!(ht. O#e o$ the oys re+orted #e@t mor#!#(.


24/72

"Say, Doctor," he e(a#, "you sure scared Bu#ch?(rass B!ll #ear to death last #!(ht.-!c led, too. He as ed us all to come !# a#d ha e o#e o# h!m. He does#'t #o* a#yth!#(else to do *he# he $eels (ood. '-hat's a #e* o#e o# me,' he sa!d. 'I #e er had a#yth!#( todo *!th a +reacher !# my l!$e. D!d#'t l! e 'em. e+t shy o$ 'em. But !$ 3ather You#( sees$!t to come !#to my saloo#/a#d he's !# !t e ery day/I'll (o *!th h!m *here er he *a#ts

me to (o/e e# !$ !t's to h!s church.'"

-hat touched me, $or I could se#se someth!#( o$ the sacr!$!ce !t *ould !# ol e. It *ould e $ar eas!er $or B!ll to start o# a three?thousa#d?m!le *!#ter mush o# s#o*?shoes, o eru# ro e# tra!ls, tha# to ste+ !#s!de o$ a 8rotesta#t meet!#(?house.

3rom that t!me o#, B!ll *as my r!(ht ha#d. As the #um er o$ ty+ho!d !ct!ms !#creased,he made h!s saloo# a# !#tell!(e#ce o$$!ce, $!#d!#( a#d re+ort!#( to me all #e* cases. -hee@am+le o$ the Odd 3ello*s st!mulated the ar!ous soc!al orders re+rese#ted !# the cam+

/the &aso#s, #!(hts o$ 8yth!as, 5l s, 5a(les, a#d others/to a l! e huma#e *ora#d B!ll loo ed u+ the!r s!c mem ers a#d re+orted to the!r comm!ttees. He sa* that all

the s!c had med!cal atte#t!o#, a#d (uara#teed the +ayme#t o$ scores o$ doctor's !lls.5ach steam oat that le$t Nome $or the "outs!de" carr!ed a #um er o$ co# alesce#ts a#d ro e#?do*# a#d mo#eyless me#, a#d $u#ds had to e ra!sed $or the!r +assa(e. B!llheaded #early all o$ these su scr!+t!o# l!sts, as *ell as those $or $!tt!#( u+ the $ourtem+orary hos+!tals *e o+e#ed a#d $!lled *!th s!c me#.

Be!#( $or o er s!@ *ee s the o#ly cler(yma# !# that *hole re(!o#, I co#ducted all the$u#erals. O#e *ee I had ele e#/all ty+ho!d cases. B!ll atte#ded them all, loo !#( a$terthe d!((!#( o$ the (ra es a#d ma !#( co$$!#s, a#d o$te# act!#( as u#derta er.

No*, I am #ot sett!#( u+ my saloo# $r!e#d as a sa!#t. Mu!te the co#trary. I su++ose he had

ee# (u!lty o$ e ery cr!me me#t!o#ed !# the Decalo(ue. He had #e er #o*# a#y homel!$e, ut had #oc ed a out $rom cam+ to cam+ o$ the *ester# $ro#t!ers e er s!#ce oyhood. H!s !deas o$ moral!ty, there$ore, *ere ery a(ue. He *as sa!d to ha e ee#"ru# out" o$ se eral to*#s !# &o#ta#a a#d Idaho. He had a !ole#t tem+er : a#d, as the

+hrase *e#t, *as ">u!c o# the tr!((er." 4umor sa!d that he had the lood o$ more tha#o#e ma# o# h!s ha#ds althou(h !t *as cla!med, !# e ery case, that he had #ot sou(ht the>uarrel. He sold *h!s ey a#d dra# !t, (am led a#d s*ore ha !tually *!thout a thou(ht o$a#y o$ these th!#(s e!#( *ro#(. He *as s!m+ly a# u#cultured, !(#ora#t, rou(h?a#d?ready, Ir!sh?Amer!ca# ac *oodsma#.

But to those o$ us !# the ra* cam+ o$ Nome *ho *!t#essed B!ll's u#t!r!#( !#d#ess a#dsel$?sacr!$!ce dur!#( those *ee s o$ d!stress, h!s $aults $aded !#to the ac (rou#d eh!#dthe l!(ht o$ h!s ma#y (ood deeds. St. 8eter says, " har!ty co ers a mult!tude o$ s!#s," a#dsurely B!ll's char!ty "a ou#ded" o er*helm!#(ly, +utt!#( out o$ s!(ht much o$ the e !l !#h!s l!$e.

As $or me, I shall al*ays th!# o$ h!m as o#e o$ the most loyal, de oted $r!e#ds I e erhad, a#d the sa er o$ my l!$e. 3or a$ter se e# *ee s o$ most stre#uous a#d *ear!#( *or ,I *as sudde#ly str!c e# do*# *!th the ty+ho!d mysel$. -he lo* came *he# I *as $a!rly


25/72

dro*#ed !# the mult!tude o$ my dut!es. I *as ra!s!#( the mo#ey to se#d out o# thesteam oat $our or $! e me# *ho E must lea e the cou#try or d!e/+oor $ello*s *hose

!tal!ty *as so lo* that they could #ot com at the cold a#d storms o$ a Nome *!#ter. I*as also +re+ar!#( a#other *arehouse?hos+!tal. So (reat *as the dema#d $or s+ace $orthe care o$ the s!c that I had $elt com+elled to ta e !#to my o*# te#? y?t*el e te#t three

me# s!c *!th the d!sease. So cro*ded *as the te#t that I had to slee+ u#der the ed o$o#e o$ them. B!lly &urta(h a#d others o$ the Odd 3ello*s' lu *ar#ed me a(a!#st thuse@+os!#( mysel$ to the !#$ect!o#, ut there seemed to e #o other *ay. B!lly rou(ht meall h!s rema!#!#( A+oll!#ar!s *ater that I m!(ht #ot ha e to dr!# the !m+ure see+a(e o$the tu#dra. Some o$ the rothers carr!ed me +a!ls o$ *ater $rom the o#e *ell *h!ch had

ee# rece#tly +ut do*#.

=h!le I *as !# the m!dst o$ the ca# ass $or $u#ds, a#d !# the ustle o$ +re+arat!o# $or thede+arture o$ the last steam oats, I had a terr!$!c headache $or se eral days. I *as es!e(edday a#d #!(ht y $r!e#ds o$ s!c me# $or +laces to +ut the str!c e# o#es *here they could

e cared $or. -he l!$e o$ a #um er o$ these me# seemed to de+e#d o# my ee+!#( o# my

$eet. I had #o time < to e s!c . I e+t a*ay $rom B!lly a#d my other $r!e#ds, $or $earthey m!(ht $orc! ly !#ter$ere.

But o#e o$ the Odd 3ello*s sa* me as I *as com!#( out o$ a store *!th a su scr!+t!o# +a+er !# my ha#d. He loo ed at me $or a mome#t a#d hurr!ed to the "Beach Saloo#."

"B!ll," he shouted, "(et a doctor, >u!c , a#d (o to the +arso#. I sa* h!m ust #o*sta((er!#( alo#( *!th h!s $ace as red as $!re a#d h!s ha#d to h!s head. He's (ot the $e er,sure."

B!lly came ru##!#( do*# the each *!th Dr. Da y at h!s heels a#d cau(ht me as I *as

e#ter!#( my te#t. =!thout ceremo#y they +!c ed u+ the s!c ma# *ho *as !# my cot a#dcarr!ed h!m to a#other te#t #ear y. -he#, !# s+!te o$ my +rotests, they u#dressed me a#dla!d me !# my la# ets. I *as hal$ del!r!ous a#d stu or#. I $ou(ht them.

"-h!s !s all #o#se#se, Doctor," I +rotested. "I ha e o#ly a headache. -here !s #o t!me to$ool a*ay. -hese me# must (o out o# th!s steam oat, a#d the mo#ey !s #ot ra!sed. Let mealo#e."

Dr. Da y $!#!shed h!s e@am!#at!o# a#d tur#ed to Bu#ch?(rass B!ll. "He has a ; adcase o$ ty+ho!d," *as h!s erd!ct, "a#d ou(ht to ha e ee# !# ed three or $our days a(o.3!#d a house to +ut h!m !# a#d a *oma# to #urse h!m."

B!ll had o#e o$ the so$test a#d s*eetest o!ces I e er heard. He came to me a#d la!d h!scool ha#d o# my $orehead. "Do#'t you *orry a out those me#, 3ather," he sa!d (e#tly."I'll atte#d to that. No* *ho do you *a#t to #urse you)"

"&rs. 8err!(o," I re+l!ed. "She has ust u!lt a #e* ca !#. I hel+ed her *!th !t. Herhus a#d !s reco er!#( $rom the $e er."


26/72

Soo# the (ood *oma# *as !# my te#t, ea(er to ser e. I *as carr!ed throu(h a dr! !#(s#o*?storm to her ca !#. It *as a rude a$$a!r u!lt o$ rou(h oards set u+r!(ht a#d

atte#ed *!th #arro*, hal$?!#ch str!+s. A s!#(le th!c #ess o$ u!ld!#(?+a+er +oorlysu++leme#ted the !#ch oards. But cold a#d u#com$orta le as !t *as, !t *as the o#lya a!la le shelter. I had them r!#( my te#t a#d ma e a storm?shed o$ !t !# $ro#t o$ the

door. -here, $or more tha# t*o mo#ths, I *as to l!e hel+less.

&y $r!e#ds told me a$ter*ards o$ the co#ster#at!o# that my !ll#ess caused. I *ascha!rma# o$ all the (e#eral rel!e$ comm!ttees/those 6 o$ the to*# cou#c!l, the c!t! e#s,the m!ss!o#, the Odd 3ello*s. -hat the leader should thus e la!d as!de seemed a (reatercalam!ty tha# *as actually the case. 3or &r. =!rt o$ the o#(re(at!o#al hurch arr! ed*!th lum er to erect a hos+!tal, a#d 4aymo#d 4o !#s, a you#( ma# o$ (reat ear#est#essa#d tale#t, *ho has s!#ce ar!se# to #at!o#al +rom!#e#ce, came *!th h!m to hel+ !#

hr!st!a# *or .

-he #!(ht a$ter I *as ta e# to the 8err!(o ca !#, there *as a meet!#( o$ the Odd 3ello*s'

lu . B!lly &urta(h *as +rese#t a#d made h!s $!rst +u l!c s+eech. As my !ll#ess a#d the(e#eral s!tuat!o# *as d!scussed he rose to h!s $eet, the tears stream!#( do*# h!s $ace. Heseemed u#co#sc!ous o$ them/or, at least, u#ashamed.

"3ellers," he $altered, "I'm hard h!t. -h!s (ets me *here I l! e. No* I'll tell you th!s9 you$ellers ca# loo a$ter the other s!c $ol s, a#d call o# me *he# you #eed a#y mo#ey. But I*a#t you to lea e 3ather You#( to me. I' e ado+ted h!m. He's my $ather. All I' e (ot !sh!s. I$ there's a#yth!#( !# th!s cam+ he #eeds, he's (o!#' to ha e !t."

:F

Ah, that lo#(, des+erate $!(ht $or l!$e0 -he stu##!#( +a!# !# my head, the h!(h $e er, thedel!r!um, the #er ous terror, the deadly *ea #ess, the emac!at!o#, the ch!lls a#d #ausea0 I*as adly ha#d!ca++ed !# my $!(ht. -he t*o mo#ths o$ *ear!#( *or a#d stra!# *h!ch

+receded my !ll#ess had e@hausted me, ody a#d m!#d/there *as #o !tal reser e todra* u+o#.

I *as !# a l!ttle, cold sha#ty, t*el e $eet s>uare, cro*ded a#d u#healthy. -*o +eo+le es!des mysel$ must l! e !# that t!#y room/slee+ there, coo there. -he sa a(e arct!c*!#ter ra(ed a(a!#st us, ho*l!#( h!s e#(ea#ce u+o# our !m+ude#ce !# thus ra !#( h!m,u#+re+ared. He made e ery #a!l?head !#s!de the house a #o o$ $rost. =he# my

la# ets, dam+ *!th the steam o$ coo !#(, touched the *all, he clam+ed them so t!(ht

o#e must tear the $a r!c !# +ull!#( !t $ree. He made my cloth!#(, sto*ed u#der the cot, asol!d lum+ o$ !ce. He as+hy@!ated us *!th $oul (ases *he# the door *as closed, a#d $!lledthe room !#sta#tly *!th $!#e s#o* $rom the co#de#sat!o# o$ the mo!sture *he# !t *aso+e#ed. He char(ed co#sta#tly u+o# the th!# shell o$ the house *!th h!s h!(h Octo er a#d

No em er *!#ds, sha !#( !t *!ldly a#d threate#!#( to o*l !t :1 o er. He dro e, !#hor! o#tal sheets, the $!#e, $lour?l! e s#o*, shoot!#( !t throu(h atte#?cre !ce, door?craca#d eyhole a#d, $!#d!#( myr!ad small a+ertures !# the sha e roo$, s!$ted !t do*# u+o#my $ace. He +!led !t !# $a#tast!c *h!rls arou#d the house, select!#( the s!de o# *h!ch our


27/72

o#e small *!#do* *as, to a# !t h!(hest, so that he m!(ht shut out our l!(ht. He se#t thered s+!r!t !# the thermometer tu e do*#, do*#, do*#/te# elo* ero, t*e#ty, th!rty*he# !t stormed, a#d $orty, $!$ty, s!@ty elo* *he# !t *as st!ll, a#d the lac death?m!st

rooded o er the !cy *astes a#d me# reathed !ce?s+l!#ters !#stead o$ a!r.

-he $uel su++ly $or the Nome cam+ *as ery +oor a#d sca#ty. &e# *ere d!((!#( old,sodde# lo(s o$ dr!$t*ood out o$ the s#o*, a#d haul!#( th!s sorry $!re?*ood t*e#ty m!les y ha#d. oal *as scarce a#d sold y the to# $or 1:F.FF, or y the uc et $or te# ce#ts a +ou#d.

Ha !#( had e@+er!e#ce *!th ty+ho!d e+!dem!cs a#d other s!c #esses !# the lo#d! eStam+ede, I had la!d !# a (ood su++ly o$ #!ce $oods $or the s!c , such as malted m!l , the

est ra#ds o$ co#de#sed m!l , ta+!oca, $ar!#a, a#d other del!cac!es ut all :2 o$ thesehad ee# (! e# a*ay e$ore my o*# !ll#ess, a#d there *as a scarc!ty o$ such art!cles !#the stores.

But my $r!e#ds, *ome# a#d me#,/!#deed, e ery ody !# the cam+ seemed !#terested !#me a#d a#@!ous to do someth!#( $or me/arose to meet all these emer(e#c!es a#d"m!#!stered to m!#e !#$!rm!t!es." -he Odd 3ello*s su++leme#ted the e$$orts o$ theco# alesce#t, ut st!ll sha y 8err!(o, a#d cut the *!#d?+ac ed s#o* !#to r!c s a#d u!lt!t arou#d the house, u#t!l !t loo ed l! e a er!ta le 5s !mo !(loo. It *as much *armera$ter th!s *as do#e.

-he doctors at Nome all +rescr! ed a d!et o$ m!l a#d *h!s ey $or the!r $e er +at!e#ts.U+o# the #e*s o$ my !ll#ess c!rculat!#( !# the cam+ a do e# ottles o$ d!$$ere#t ra#ds*ere at o#ce se#t to me. B!lly came, e@am!#ed, smelled at, a#d tasted these l!>uors, *!ththe a!r o$ a# e@+ert. -he# he u#dled all the ottles !#to a (u##y sac a#d carr!ed them

a*ay, say!#(, "He's #ot (o!#( to ha e a#y o$ th!s do+e. I' e (ot some o$ the +ure stu$$,made !# Irela#d." A#d he rou(ht me a# am+le su++ly $or all my #eeds, a#d a (allo# o$ +ure alcohol $or s+o#(e? aths.

:C

-he Odd 3ello*s or(a#! ed *ood?cutt!#( " ees" $or my e#e$!t, a#d da!ly carr!ed *ater$rom the *ell $or &rs. 8err!(o's use. -he *ome# collected $ood a#d m!l $rom the!r o*#stores a#d those o$ others, a#d rou(ht them to me. -he $ello*sh!+ o$ the *!lder#ess, the$!#est !# the *orld, had !ts $ull e@erc!se $or my e#e$!t there at Nome. I dou t !$ there *asa +erso# !# all that (reat cam+ *ho *ould #ot ha e (! e# me cheer$ully h!s last ca# o$

m!l .As the $e er +ro(ressed a#d my co#d!t!o# (re* more ser!ous, the da!ly !s!tors *ererestr!cted to t*o/&rs. Stro#( a#d Bu#ch?(rass B!ll. -he lady loo ed a$ter matters o$

us!#ess, my letters, a#d !#$ormat!o# a out other s!c +eo+le. B!lly, *!th h!s so$t, lo*o!ce a#d (e#tle ma##er, ho ered o er me, s!tt!#( $or hours at my eds!de, l!$t!#( me !#

h!s t*o !( ha#ds *!th !#$!#!te care a#d de$t#ess. Ne er d!d so# care $or $ather *!th more


28/72

te#der sol!c!tude a#d $uller de ot!o# tha# d!d th!s Ir!sh athol!c saloo#? ee+er, th!s " adma#" o$ the *ester# $ro#t!er, $or me/a 8rotesta#t +reacher.

-here *ere ma#y malamute do(s at Nome, (reat, eaut!$ul, *ol$?l! e easts, a#d the"malamute chorus" *as much !# e !de#ce : !# the late hours o$ the #!(ht. O#e, !#

+art!cular, *h!ch *as t!ed u+ #ot $ar $rom 8err!(o's ca !#, tu#ed u+ re(ularly e erymor#!#( at three o'cloc *!th h!s h!(h?+!tched tremolo, *a !#( e ery do( *!th!# a m!le,u#t!l all *ere ho*l!#(, a#d ee+!#( !t u+ t!ll dayl!(ht. -here *as #o slee+ +oss! le $or me*h!le th!s co#cert *as !# +ro(ress, a#d I used to l!e a*a e $or hours, *a!t!#( $ear$ully $orthe leader to e(!#, a#d to co*er !# my ro es *!th #er ous ch!lls cours!#( do*# my s+!#eat e ery re#e*al o$ the lo#(?dra*# cade#ce, "Oo?o?o?o?o, oo?o?o?o?o, o*, o*, o*, o*."

&y $e er *ould al*ays r!se *!th the comme#ceme#t o$ th!s d!scorda#t chorus a#d!#crease as lo#( as !t co#t!#ued, a#d the doctor o# h!s mor#!#( !s!t *ould $!#d mee@hausted a#d trem l!#(. -he *ords o$ lare#ce *ould chase each other throu(h my

ra!#9

"=!th that, methou(ht, a le(!o# o$ $oul $!e#ds 5# !ro#'d me, a#d ho*led !# m!#e earsSuch h!deous cr!es, that, *!th the ery #o!se I trem l!#( *a 'd, a#d, $or a seaso# a$ter

ould #ot el!e e ut *hat I *as !# hell."

::

&rs. 8err!(o told B!lly o$ the #u!sa#ce. He stayed u+ that #!(ht u#t!l the lead!#( ca#!#emus!c!a# shr!e ed h!s solo to the moo#. He $ollo*ed u+ the sou#d u#t!l he $ou#d the do(,roused the (rum l!#( o*#er, +a!d the h!(h +r!ce as ed $or the a#!mal, led h!m do*# the

each hal$ a m!le, a#d shot h!m.

A# erra#d o$ a# o++os!te character also $ell to B!lly's lot. -he arrac s *h!ch housed as>uadro# o$ U#!ted States sold!ers *as less tha# a loc $rom the ca !# !# *h!ch I lay.5 ery #!(ht at ele e# o'cloc a u(le o$ remar a le s*eet#ess a#d e@+ress!o# *ould

lo* " -a+s. " I *ould l!ste# $or the sooth!#( melody, a#d *he# !t *ould sou#d I *ouldtur# o er !# my ro e a#d o ey !ts comma#d, "Go?o?o to sle?e?e+."

L!eute#a#t ra!(, the comma#der o$ the +ost, ordered the d!sco#t!#ua#ce o$ "-a+s,"th!# !#( !t *ould d!stur me a#d the other s!c +eo+le. -hat #!(ht I *a!ted, as usual, $orthe "(ood?#!(ht" u(le, a#d *he# !t d!d #ot sou#d I (re* a#@!ous a#d d!strau(ht. Ithou(ht my *atch *as *ro#( or the u(ler must e s!c . I (re* e@c!ted, restless a#d

$e er!sh, a#d +assed a slee+less #!(ht, m!ss!#( my accustomed lulla y. =e told B!lly he*e#t to see the L!eute#a#t, a#d the #e@t :E #!(ht the lo ely, sooth!#( +hrase sou#ded$orth o# the st!ll #!(ht a!r, a#d I sle+t.

-a+s.L!ste#
http://www.gutenberg.org/files/44077/44077-h/44077-h.htm#Page_56http://www.gutenberg.org/files/44077/44077-h/music/taps.midhttp://www.gutenberg.org/files/44077/44077-h/44077-h.htm#Page_56http://www.gutenberg.org/files/44077/44077-h/music/taps.mid


29/72

A#other cause o$ #er ous#ess a#d a#@!ety arose, re>u!r!#( the e$$orts o$ oth &rs. Stro#(a#d B!lly &urta(h to sol e the d!$$!culty. I *as +ay!#( my #urse, &rs. 8err!(o, $! edollars a day, *h!ch *as almost all she a#d her hus a#d had to l! e o#. -hey had ee#eat!#( $or a year a#d a hal$ a $ood out$!t des!(#ed $or o#ly a s!#(le seaso#, a#d there *as

ut l!ttle o$ !t le$t. &r. 8err!(o, *ho *as a Ya# ee t!#ty+e?+!cture +eddler a#d #e* #oother trade, had tr!ed h!s est to e a (old?m!#er ut, !# commo# *!th the rest o$ the$orlor# " o uc ers," had made #oth!#( at all. H!s *!$e, *ho had ee# a oo ee+er !#Bosto#, al!a#tly too u+ the trades o$ *a!tress, *asher*oma# a#d coo !# the Arct!c

*!lder#ess, ut there *as ut l!ttle mo#ey !# that d!sa++o!#ted cro*d. Almost!mmed!ately a$ter la#d!#( o# the "(olde# sa#ds" :< o$ Nome !# Au(ust &r. 8err!(o *asstr!c e# *!th the $e er. =!th the $ear$ul +r!ces that +re a!led, my $! e dollars a day *asl!ttle e#ou(h to $eed them a#d meet the mo#thly +ayme#ts o# the!r house.

I had accumulated 12:.FF/mostly *edd!#( $ees/*he# I *as ta e# s!c . It melteda*ay l! e a s+oo#$ul o$ su(ar !# a cu+ o$ hot co$$ee. 5 ery &o#day I must ha e th!rty?$! e dollars $or my $a!th$ul #urse. I +laced !# &rs. Stro#('s ha#ds $or sale my 8ar ershot(u#, my ty+e*r!ter, my (old?scales, my e@tra o ercoat, all (!$ts $rom $r!e#ds. She (ot(ood +r!ces $or them, a#d $or the $e* art!cles I could s+are $rom my $ood su++ly/ utst!ll the +ha#tom *ee ly +ayme#t me#aced me. =he# I closed my eyes the $!(ures/

C:.FF/ !( a#d lur!d/stared at me, a#d !# my del!r!ous dreams ecame red (o l!#s,moc !#( me.

A s+le#d!d *oma#, mem er o$ the church *h!ch assumed my salary, had (! e# me t*o eaut!$ul *ol$ ro es. I *as ly!#( !# the hea !er o#e. I del! ered the other to &rs. Stro#(."Sell !t $or me," I re>uested. "You ou(ht to (et $!$ty or s!@ty dollars $or !t."

:;

A *ee +assed/the# a#other. &rs. Stro#( re+orted she "*as hold!#( the ro e $or ah!(her +r!ce." -he cr!s!s I had dreaded had arr! ed. &y mo#ey *as (o#e. I had #o#e to

meet #e@t &o#day's +ayme#t.

"Sell the ro e $or *hat !t *!ll r!#(," I d!rected &rs. Stro#(. "I must ha e the mo#ey."

"I'll sell !t o# Saturday," she +rom!sed.

&o#day mor#!#( &rs. Stro#( marched !# *!th a lar(e ca# as mo#ey? a( !# her ha#d.=!th &rs. 8err!(o's ass!sta#ce she cou#ted out the mo#ey, *h!ch *as mostly !# s!l er


30/72

co!#s. -he# she *rote !# lar(e $!(ures, " 1:;.:F," a#d +!##ed the +a+er o# the *all y myhead.

"=here o# earth d!d you (et that mo#ey)" I cr!ed.

"=hy, $or the ro e, o$ course."

"You #e er (ot all that $or !t."

"Yes, I d!d," she a$$!rmed.

-he# the truth da*#ed u+o# me. "&rs. Stro#(0" I e@cla!med, "you ra$$led the ro e0"

"Yes," she lau(hed. "=hat are you (o!#( to do a out !t)"

-he# she e@+la!#ed. 3!#d!#( !t !m+oss! le to (et a $a!r +r!ce $or the $ur la# et :6 she

a#d Bu#ch?(rass B!ll had la!d the!r heads to(ether. -hey #e* that I *ould #ot co#se#t toa ra$$le, so they e+t the matter >u!et. B!ll d!s+layed the ro e !# $ro#t o$ h!s saloo#.Shares *ere o$$ered at $!$ty ce#ts each. &y lady $r!e#ds o$ the m!ss!o# sold t!c ets. B!ll

ou(ht $!$ty a#d others o$ my $r!e#ds d!d almost as *ell. -he!r +ur+ose !$ they *o# thero e *as to (! e !t ac to me.

=hat could I do) -o re u e the!r !#dly dece+t!o# *ould e u#(rac!ous !#deed. =!th r!mm!#( eyes I tha# ed my $r!e#ds, a#d &rs. 8err!(o (ot her mo#ey.

But the (reatest o$ Bu#ch?(rass B!ll's ma#y acts o$ !#d#ess to*ards me rema!#s to etold. As Dr. Da y had sa!d $rom the $!rst, m!#e *as "a ad case." I had se e# a#d a hal$

*ee s o$ h!(h $e er e$ore !t ro e, *hereas the usual l!m!t o$ $e er *as three *ee s. Ireached the e@treme o$ emac!at!o# a#d *ea #ess. I could hardly l!$t my ha#d. =he# they u#dled me !# a la# et l! e a a y a#d hu#( me o# the hoo o$ a !( steelyard I*e!(hed s!@ty +ou#ds0 I *as lo#( !# the 7alley o$ the Shado* o$ Death a#d reached !tsutmost ou#dary, u#t!l the ery *aters o$ the dar r! er EF la++ed my $eet.

"=ell, B!ll," sa!d Dr. Da y *!th a s!(h, as he *as retur#!#( o#e mor#!#( $rom h!s callu+o# me, a#d sto++ed, as *as h!s custom, to re+ort to the "Beach Saloo#," "I'm a$ra!d !t'sa out o er. I do#'t th!# Dr. You#( ca# last much lo#(er. He ca# reta!# #oth!#( o# h!sstomach. =e' e tr!ed all the ra#ds o$ co#de#sed m!l !# the cam+ to #o a a!l.5 eryth!#( comes u+ the !#sta#t !t !s s*allo*ed. -here are ma#y !#ter#al com+l!cat!o#s,

a#d he may (o o$$ a#y hour !# o#e o$ those deathly co# uls! e ch!lls.""B!( =!l ur," *ho re+orted the sce#e to me a$ter*ards, sa!d that B!ll's $ace "*e#t *h!teas chal , a#d the# $lushed red as $!re." He um+ed at the doctor as thou(h he *ere (o!#(to assault h!m.


31/72

"By God," he cr!ed, "he's #ot (o!#' to d!e. =e'll #ot let h!m, Doc. See here9 =he# I hadthe $e er at Da*so#, *hat sa ed me *as co*'s m!l . No*, there's a co* here. You come*!th me, a#d *e'll (o see her."

"-hat co*," e@+la!#ed =!l ur, "*as a *o#der$ul a#!mal. Her o*#er sold t*e#ty (allo#s

o$ m!l a day $rom her, a#d she d!d#'t loo as !$ she (a e o#e. B!ll #e* the E1 o*#er*as do+!#( the m!l *!th co#de#sed m!l a#d cor#?starch a#d *ater a#d other stu$$. Sohe stra++ed o# h!s t*o !( (u#s. He's (reat $or lu$$, !s B!ll. Doc. a#d I *e#t alo#( to seethe $u#. =e $ou#d the o*#er !# the sta le 'te#d!#( to h!s co*. B!ll d!d#'t eat arou#d the

ush a#y.

"'You loo here' he sa!d. 'Your co*'s (! !#' too dar#ed much m!l . No* th!s ma# I *a#t !t$or !s my $ather, a#' he's (ot e#ou(h m!cro es !# h!m already. Doc. here, a#aly ed yourm!l d!d#'t you, Doc)' Doc. Da y *as (ame, a#d #odded.J 'He says you +ut tu#dra*ater a#d all !#ds o$ do+e !# !t. I'm (o!#' to ee+ ta o# you, a#' !$ you do+e my m!l / *ell, you #o* me0 It do#'t ma e #o d!$$ere#ce *hat you char(e/a dollar a ottle or $! e

dollars a ottle/my $ather's (ot to ha e +ure m!l . U#dersta#d)'"3or three mo#ths B!lly *e#t to the sta le e ery day a#d su+er!#te#ded the m!l !#(. At acost to h!m, somet!mes, o$ three dollars $or a +!#t ottle, a#d #e er less tha# a dollar a

ottle, the " ad ma#" rou(ht me e ery day, *!th h!s o*# ha#ds, a ottle o$ $resh m!l .=he# B!ll a#d the doctor came !# *!th that $!rst ottle &rs. 8err!(o E2 care$ully ra!sedmy head a#d (a e me a r!mm!#( (lass o$ the r!ch m!l . I dra# !t all a#d dro++ed o$$ toslee+. I #eeded #o more *h!s ey. -he tur#!#( +o!#t o$ my !ll#ess *as that (lass o$ co*'sm!l . B!ll's !( lu$$ sa ed my l!$e0

-o sho* the rou(h, yet $!#e se#t!me#t o$ the ma#, let me tell o#e last *ord a out the lo#e

co*. She *e#t dry e$ore s+r!#(, a#d, as the cam+ *as cra y $or $resh meat, the o*#er utchered her. O#e o$ the Odd 3ello*s told me. Sa!d he, "B!ll ust *e#t *!ld *he# heheard o$ !t, a#d *e had all *e could do to ee+ h!m $rom (o!#( (u##!#( $or the ma# *ho

!lled the co* that sa ed your l!$e. =hy, that ma# *ould lay do*# h!s l!$e $or you, a#dlau(h *h!le he *as do!#' !t."

I *ould I could tell o$ Bu#ch?(rass B!ll's co# ers!o# a#d e#t!re re$ormat!o#, ut th!s !s atrue story, a#d I #e er heard that he e er (ot so $ar as that. -h!s much, ho*e er, I am

+roud to tell. O#e day !# the s+r!#( o$ 16FF, *he# the army o$ (old?see ers *as e(!##!#( to la#d o# the "Golde# Beach," I *as sta#d!#( *!th B!ll #ear h!s saloo#. O# asudde# !m+ulse I s+o e to h!m.

EC

"B!lly," I sa!d, "I lo e you, ut I do#'t l! e your us!#ess. It's a ad us!#ess. See *hat !thas do#e to lots o$ (ood $ello*s arou#d here. You are too !( $or that (ame. I *!sh you'ddro+ !t a#d do someth!#( that's clea#/that does#'t hurt a#y ody."


32/72

B!ll made #o re+ly, a#d I su++osed my *ords had ee# $ru!tless. But !# a $e* *ee s o#eo$ my $r!e#ds !#$ormed me that B!ll had sold out a#d had (o#e to (old?m!#!#(.

"-hat's (ood0" I e@cla!med. "D!d he (! e a#y reaso#)"

"Yes," the ma# re+l!ed, "B!ll sa!d you told h!m to."

=he# I *as retur#!#( to Alas a !# 16F1, I ou(ht a #!ce u$$alo smo !#(?set at the 8a#?Amer!ca# 5@+os!t!o# a#d too !t to Alas a $or Bu#ch?(rass B!ll. I d!d #ot see h!m, as he*as m!#!#( at a d!sta#ce, ut I heard o$ h!s +r!de a#d +leasure as he d!s+layed the (!$t a#dtal ed a$$ect!o#ately o$ "3ather You#(." He le$t Alas a that summer, a#d I ha e heard

a(uely o$ h!s +rese#ce !# the Ne ada (old?$!elds. But *here er he !s, I +ray that Godmay less a#d sa e the Ir!sh saloo#? ee+er, *ho lo ed me a#d sa ed my l!$e.

E

IV

&Y DOGS

&ush!#( *!th do(s !# Alas a !s the *orst a#d the est mode o$ tra el!#( !# all the *orld /the most oy$ul a#d the most e@as+erat!#(/accord!#( to the a#(le $rom *h!ch youloo at !t.

O#ce I *as +reach!#( a ser!es o$ sermo#s o# the -e# omma#dme#ts to the m!#ers atou#c!l, a to*# o# Se*ard 8e#!#sula e!(hty?$! e m!les east o$ Nome. I had come to the

-h!rd omma#dme#t a#d I ore do*# +retty hard u+o# the useless a#d $ool!sh ha !t o$ +ro$a#e s*ear!#(.

=he# I *as (o!#( home $rom the meet!#(, a (rou+ o$ you#( me# stood o# the cor#er*a!t!#( $or me.

" ome o er here, Doctor," called o#e o$ the me#. "I ha e a et *!th %!m, a#d I *a#t youto dec!de !t."

I crossed o er to the olly (rou+. "=hat !s your et)" I as ed.

E:

"=hy," he re+l!ed, "I' e et %!m $! e dollars that you ha e #e er mushed a do(?team."

"=ell, you' e lost," I a#s*ered. "I ha e dr! e# do(s ma#y t!mes/a#d #e er $ou#d !t#ecessary to s*ear at them, e!ther."


33/72

Be$ore I (o o# *!th my story, +erha+s I *ould etter e@+la!# that *ord "mush," as !t !sused !# the North*est. -he *ord !s #e er used !# Alas a as you use !t !# the 5ast, tode#ote +orr!d(e, or some sort o$ cereal. -here *e say "oatmeal" or "cor#?meal," ors!m+ly "cereal."

I# Alas a the *ord has ut o#e use. It !s a corru+t!o# o$ the 3re#ch mar%he , mar%he,*h!ch the a#ad!a# %oureurs !u )ois , or tra elers o$ the *oods, shout at the!r do(s *he#ur(!#( them alo#( the tra!l. 3rom mar%he to "mush" !s easy. So #o*, throu(hout the (reat

North*est, a#ad!a# or Alas a#, *he# a ma# !s tra el!#( he !s "o# a mush." =he# he !ss+ea !#( to h!s do(s, e!ther to dr! e them out o$ the house or to ur(e them alo#( the tra!l,he shouts "mush0" I$ he e a (ood tra eler, he !s a "(reat musher." O$ all the +et #amesthey used to (! e me u+ there, the o#e o$ *h!ch I *as +roudest *as "-he &ush!#(8arso#."

EE

-hey tell a story, *h!ch has the ear?mar s o$ truth, *h!ch !llustrates th!s u#! ersal use o$the *ord "mush" !# the North*est.

-*o m!#ers, *ho $or years had ee# !# the m!#!#( cam+s o$ Alas a, at last came"outs!de" to Seattle. I# the mor#!#( they *e#t to a restaura#t $or rea $ast a#d too seatsat a ta le. A rather cross?loo !#( *a!tress came to ta e the!r order. "&ush)" she as ed.-he m!#ers loo ed at o#e a#other !# sur+r!se a#d alarm. -he *oma# *a!ted a *h!le, a#d*he# they d!d #ot a#s*er she su++osed they *ere dea$ a#d had #ot heard her >uest!o#."&ush)" she screamed. -he t*o me# arose a#d $led. =he# they (ot sa$ely to thes!de*al , o#e sa!d to the other, "No*, *hat the Sam H!ll d!d she $!re us $or)"

-here are three +r!#c!+al reeds o$ #at! e do(s $ou#d !# Alas a/the Hus y, the&alamute a#d the S! er!a# Do(/all desce#da#ts o$ *ol es, *!th *ol$!sh tra!ts a#d the*ol$'s *arm coat a#d +o*ers o$ e#dura#ce. O$ these the &alamute !s the lar(est,desce#ded, as he !s, $rom the (reat (ray *ol es o$ the Arct!c re(!o#s. -he Hus y seemsto e der! ed $rom the red *ol$ o$ the &c e# !e 4! er 7alley *h!le the S! er!a# Do(has $or a#cestor E< the smaller, shorter?le((ed, hea !er?$urred Arct!c *ol$ o$ theS! er!a# coast. -he smaller a#d more *orthless do(s o$ the souther# Alas a oast, !$desce#ded $rom *ol es, must ha e the coyote as the!r +ro(e#!tor/ha !#( h!s l!(hter a#dsl!mmer ody a#d h!s s#ea !#(, th!e !sh, co*ardly d!s+os!t!o#.

5 ery*here, ho*e er, the do( !s lar(ely *hat h!s master ma es h!m, a#d these #orther#

*ol$?do(s ha e (reatly !m+ro ed s!#ce they ha e $alle# !#to the ha#ds o$ *h!te masters.&ore !#tell!(e#t reed!#(, (reater care !# $eed!#( a#d more care$ul tra!#!#(, ha e madethem *hat they are/the $!#est, most e#dur!#( a#d most de+e#da le sle!(h?do(s !# the*orld.

-he do( !s y all odds the most alua le a#!mal o$ the North*est to the *h!te m!#er a#dsettler. He !s the m!#er's horse, !cycle, automo !le, locomot! e, all !# o#e. L!$e !# those*!lds *ould e almost u#e#dura le *!thout h!m. -he m!#ers a++rec!ate th!s, a#d cases o$


34/72

cruelty a#d m!streatme#t are ery rare. I# the days o$ the early (old stam+edes the%hee%ha%kos or te#der$eet, *ho #e* ut l!ttle a out l!$e !# the *!lder#ess, a#d st!ll lessa out the do(s E; o$ the *!lder#ess, somet!mes *ere (u!lty o$ a us!#( the!r do(s utth!s ery seldom occurred, a#d the old?t!mers al*ays $ro*#ed u+o#, a#d somet!mes

+u#!shed, cases o$ cruelty. I remem er o#ce hold!#(, *!th oy, the coat o$ o#e o$ these

old?t!mers at Da*so# !# the stre#uous *!#ter o$ 1;6


35/72


36/72

"-eddy" a#d "Shee+," the "*heel do(s," are #ot so alua le as the other three. "-eddy"has the lo#(est ha!r a#d the l!(htest *e!(ht o$ a#y, a#d the least stre#(th ut he !s a*!ll!#( l!ttle $ello* a#d a ery ee# hu#ter. &a e a #o!se l! e a s>u!rrel or a !rd, a#d he*!ll +r!c u+ h!s ears a#d dash do*# the +ath a$ter the (ame, a#d *he# a real ra !t or

+tarm!(a# crosses h!s +ath he *!ll tear madly alo#( u#t!l the (ame !s +assed. You ca#

$ool h!m e ery m!#ute o$ the day, a#d Bree e has a *ay o$ !m!tat!#( the l!ttle !rds thatee+s "-eddy" *or !#( h!s hardest.

"Shee+" !s a mal!#(erer. He !s a clo*#, a#d so com!cal that you ca##ot hel+ lau(h!#( ath!m, e e# *he# you #o* he deser es a (ood thrash!#(. He !s $at, hea y a#d a* *ard.I# color he !s a l!(ht, ta*#y yello*, *!th lo#( ha!r l! e "-eddy," ut la ors u#der theser!ous d!sa !l!ty o$ ha !#( a d!$$ere#t (a!t $rom the others. -hey are +acers he !s atrotter. =he# they are s*!#(!#( rhythm!cally alo#( at a $! e?m!le ual to the occas!o#. He has a *ay o$ +lay!#( o$$ s!c or $a((ed

ut !$ (ame a++ears, he $or(ets all a out h!s +rete#ses, h!s lame#ess !s all (o#e !# aseco#d a#d he !s the ee#est o$ the team. Also, *he# #ear!#( the cam+ he $or(ets h!s

*ear!#ess a#d +ulls harder tha# a#y o$ the team. It !s #ecessary to let h!m see the *h!+co#sta#tly, a#d occas!o#ally to $eel !t, a#d he !s the o#ly o#e o$ the team that #ecess!tates!ts use at all.

A out o#ce a day, o# the tra!l, a $u##y sce#e has to e e#acted. =e may e la or!#( u+ alo#( h!ll, or *allo*!#( throu(h dee+ s#o*, the d!$$!cult asce#t re>u!r!#( e ery ma# a#ddo( to do h!s est. "Shee+" *!ll (et t!red, a#d, *!th a ac *ard loo at me to see !$ I am#ot!c!#(, *!ll let h!s traces slac e#. I (! e h!m a touch o$ the *h!+, a#d, althou(h he ca#hardly $eel the lash throu(h h!s th!c coat, he yel+s a#d +ulls ma#$ully $or a shortd!sta#ce ut +rese#tly h!s trace cha!# sa(s a(a!#. Soo# "Leader" #ot!ces the hea !er

+ull!#( a#d, #o*!#( *here the lame l!es, tur#s h!s head, sho*s h!s teeth a#d (ro*ls at

"Shee+," *ho um+s !#to h!s collar a#d +ulls l! e a (ood $ello*. < Soo# he $or(ets a#dlets u+ a(a!#, (ett!#( a $!ercer (ro*l $rom "Leader." A th!rd t!me he !s a slac er. -he#"Leader" sto+s a#d e(!#s to s*!#( arou#d care$ully so as #ot to ta#(le the har#ess."&oose" a#d "4!#(" a#d "-eddy" all sta#d st!ll a#d loo at "Shee+." -hat u#$ortu#atetrotter l!es do*# o# h!s ac *!th h!s $eet !# the a!r a#d e(!#s to ho*l !# a#(u!sh. I s!tdo*# o# the sled a#d *a!t/I #o* *hat !s com!#(. "Leader" reaches "Shee+" a#d $ora out a m!#ute there !s a edlam o$ sa a(e (ro*ls $rom "Leader" a#d +!erc!#( shr!e s$rom "Shee+." I #ot!ce that "Leader" does #ot ta e the cul+r!t y the throat, ut o#ly

+!#ches the loose h!de o# h!s reast a#d s!de. -hat ca##ot !# ure h!m, so I am #ot u#easy.-he +u#!shme#t o er, "Leader" resumes h!s +lace. "Shee+" (ets u+ a#d sha es h!msel$*!th a# a!r o$ rel!e$. I ta e the ha#dle? ars a#d call "&ush." 3or the rest o$ the day"Shee+" +ulls $or all he !s *orth ut the #e@t day he $or(ets a#d has to e trou#ced a(a!#.

I am co#sc!ous that th!s story may ha e a "$!shy" $la or $or some o$ my readers, ut I ca#assure them !t !s true.


37/72

But m!#e are all $!#e l!ttle do(s, #ot as lar(e as the malamute, ut *!th more coura(e,s+!r!t a#d !#tell!(e#ce. -he lo#( ha!r +rotects them $rom the cold a#d they *!ll cuddledo*# !# the s#o* co#te#tedly, curled u+ l! e l!ttle shr!m+s, a#d let !t co er them.

=e must ta e alo#( e#ou(h $eed $or the do(s, to last them $rom salmo# stream to salmo#

stream. -he sta+le o$ the!r $eed !s dr!ed salmo# !t (oes a lo#( *ay $or !ts *e!(ht. =estart *!th a hu#dred +ou#ds o$ !t, a#d $!$ty +ou#ds o$ r!ce a#d tallo*. -h!s, o!led !#to asa ory mess a#d ser ed o#ce a day *he# they sto+ $or the #!(htJ, ee+s the do(s $at a#dhearty. =e shall re+le#!sh the su++ly at !#ter als, $or $! e do(s *!ll eat a# !mme#seamou#t o$ $ood, a#d must ha e all that they ca# eat at the!r da!ly meal.

-he sled !s a as et?sle!(h *!th ha#dle? ars a#d ra e at the ac a#d a "(ee?+ole" !#$ro#t, *!th a# e@tra ro+e *he# *e ha e to "#ec !t" to hel+ the do(s. &y *ol$?ro e !ss+read o# the $loor o$ the sle!(h $or my accommodat!o# !# the r!e$ !#ter als o$ r!d!#(.3or do( mush!#( !# Alas a does #ot mea# lu@ur!ously r!d!#( !# your sle!(h *ra++ed u+!# your $ur ro e *h!le the do(s haul you alo#( the tra!l. =he# Dr. 5( ert


38/72

a#d ru# ahead o$ the do(s u+ the lo#( h!ll. I soo# $!#d my $ur +ar a too hea y, a#dd!scard !t $or the l!(hter o#e made o$ dr!ll!#(, !# *h!ch I do the rest o$ my mush!#( to thee#d o$ the tra!l. &occas!#s are o# my $eet, $or the tra!l must e ta e# $lat?$ooted !$ o#e !sto ha e reaso#a le com$ort.

A$ter t*o or three m!les *e lea e the road road a#d str! e the tra!l throu(h the*!lder#ess. Our sled !s t*e#ty?o#e !#ches *!de, l!(ht a#d shod *!th steel, a#d the tra!l,he#ce$orth, *!ll e a out t*e#ty?$our !#ches !# *!dth, somet!mes su# e# dee+, *heres#o* has #ot rece#tly $alle# a#d the tra!l has ee# *ell eate#, somet!mes o#ly a tracealo#( the s#o* *here the *!#d has lo*# !t clea# a#d *here the tra!l !s hard.

=e soo# e(!# to la or u+ the $!rst d! !de. No more r!d!#( #o*. -he tra!l !s hard e#ou(hto d!s+e#se *!th s#o*?shoes, ut hea y e#ou(h to ma e us oth *al a#d la or. I str! ethe tra!l ahead, lea !#( Bree e to the ha#dle? ars. I e(!# to $eel the oy o$ !t. -he ee#,l!(ht, dry a!r !s l! e *!#e. -he tra!l *!#ds throu(h the *oods, alo#( the ed(es o$ (or(es,the# u+ a stee+ mou#ta!#. No* the t!m er ceases a#d *e ha e rou#ded, *!#d?s*e+t

summ!ts.


39/72

alder, !s e@em+l!$!ed so +la!#ly here that, a$ter the $!rst e@am!#at!o#, you ca# tell the !#do$ tree u#der the $rost crystals ;1 y the shade o$ s!l er. -he mou#ta!#s to*er a o eyou, *!#d?s*e+t, *a !#( s#o*? a##ers. -he ast#ess o$ that *h!te hush a*es a#d thr!llsyou. A rou(h sou#d *ould e las+hemy !# the solem# s!le#ce. -he *hole la#dsca+e !s a

+oem.

-o relate e e# the lead!#( !#c!de#ts o$ th!s " oy?mush" o$ three *ee s *ould ta e u+ toomuch s+ace. -he lo#(est d!sta#ce *e tra eled !# a#y o#e day *as $!$ty?$! e m!les *h!leour hardest a#d lo#(est day's stru((le throu(h dr!$ted s#o* a#d o er a stee+ mou#ta!#

+ass y!elded us o#ly t*el e m!les o$ tra!l. I# most o$ the roadhouses I $ou#d old $r!e#ds,a#d, !# se eral o$ them, hr!st!a# +eo+le *ho had ee# mem ers o$ m!ss!o#s I hadesta l!shed !# #e* m!#!#( cam+s. =hat (ra#d t!mes *e had to(ether0 No $ello*sh!+ !s so*arm a#d s*eet as that o$ the *!lder#ess. O$ ma#y ad e#tures o# the tra!l I ca# (! e utt*o.

O#e mor#!#(, a out hal$?*ay $rom Id!tarod to Se*ard, *e le$t the $!#e ca !# o$ 3re#ch

%oe, o# the South 3or o$ the us o>u!m 4! er, u#der the t*o eaut!$ul +ea s, &ts.5(y+t a#d 8yram!d. =e *ere ma !#( $or 4a!#y 8ass o er the Alas a# 4a#(e. =hat$ollo*s !s a# e@tract $rom ;2 a# accou#t I *rote at the t!me.

-he day out $rom %oe's I meet *!th my $!rst d!saster. =e ha e #!#etee# m!les o$a solutely clear !ce o# the South 3or o$ the us o>u!m. -he r! er !s $ull o$ a!r?holes a#do+e# r!$$les. -he do(s s*!#( alo#( at a r!++!#( +ace, d!((!#( the!r toe #a!ls !#to the hard!ce, the sled sl!++!#( s!de*ays a#d sl!d!#( da#(erously #ear to the o+e# +laces. Bree eo$te# has to ru# ahead at $ull s+eed to choose a route, $or there !s #o tra!l o# the !ce. Hal$?*ay u+ the r! er I "(et (ay," as Bree e calls !t. I lea e the ha#dle? ars to $!#d a route, a#d$all do*# hard o# the smooth !ce. A shar+ +a#( str! es throu(h the small o$ my ac as !$

$rom a s+ear?thrust. I (et u+ a#d (o alo#(, th!# !#( the +a!# *!ll cease, ut soo# I real! ethat I am !# the (r!+ o$ a# old e#emy, lum a(o.

3rom th!s +o!#t o# to Se*ard I ca##ot ma e a mo e *!thout +a!#, somet!mes so (reat thatI (as+ $or reath. At #!(ht !# the roadhouse I ha e (reat trou le !# (ett!#( !#to my u# ,a#d somet!mes Bree e has to l!$t me out !# the mor#!#(. =ere I at home I *ould e !#

ed $or a cou+le o$ *ee s *!th doctors a#d #urses $uss!#( o er ;C me, ut !t !s ust as*ell that I ca##ot sto+. I ta e the +h!loso+hy o$ a# old $ello* !# the "4a!#y 8ass4oadhouse" #ear the summ!t o$ the ra#(e, *ho says the est cure $or a lame ac !s to" ee+ o# a?mush!#'"0

Beyo#d 4a!#y 8ass *e dro+ !#to the ca#yo# o$ Ha++y 4! er, a#d here *e ha e our$amous moose?hu#t. Soo# a$ter *e e#ter the (or(e *e come u+o# !ts trac s/a !( ull?moose. =e ha e already tra eled #early th!rty m!les to?day, a#d are a#@!ous to ma e theroadhouse t*el e or $!$tee# m!les $urther o# a#d #o*, here comes th!s !(, lu#der!#(

east to +o e our tra!l $ull o$ dee+ holes a#d e@c!te our do(s. He !s ru##!#( ahead o$ us.-he s#o* !s $! e or s!@ $eet dee+ a#d he (oes !# almost to h!s ac at e ery ste+. -he*alls o$ the ca#yo# are sheer a#d he ca##ot esca+e u+ !ts s!de. -he r! er tur#s a#d *!#ds,a#d here a#d there are l!ttle +atches o$ le el (rou#d, th!c *!th lar(e s+ruce trees.


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3or three m!les *e do #ot catch s!(ht o$ the moose, ut our do(s sho* that he !s o#ahead. I# s+!te o$ my lame ac I ha e to stru((le o# !# $ro#t o$ them a#d at "Leader" !#the $ace *!th my ca+, Bree e sta#d!#( o# the ra e to ee+ them $rom ; ru##!#( a*ay.-he moose trac s $!ll our tra!l $or a *h!le, smash!#( !t all to +!eces, the# eer s!de*ays toa l!ttle +atch o$ *oods, a#d the do(s (o +ell?mell !# the moose trac , ury!#( our sled out

o$ s!(ht !# the dee+ s#o*. -he# *e ha e to haul them arou#d a#d l!$t the sled o# the traca(a!#, a#d try to (et them alo#( the tra!l.

-hree m!les do*# the r! er *e catch s!(ht o$ the !( moose, a#d the do(s (o *!ld."Shee+," *ho has ee# d!s+osed to mal!#(er, !s the *orst o$ the lot. He $or(ets all h!smalad!es a#d *ear!#ess a#d dashes $or*ard, ut "Leader" *!ll #ot lea e the trac a#ds*!#(s alo#( as est he ca#, e@ce+t *he# the moose !s !# $ull s!(ht. -he# I ha e to ath!m !# the $ace to ee+ the team !# ou#ds. Our ells are t!#(l!#(, our do(s ar !#( a#d*e are shout!#(. It !s a $earsome th!#( to the ull?moose, th!s a#!mated mach!#e that !schar(!#( do*# the r! er at h!m. So o# he stru((les throu(h the dee+ s#o*, s+o!l!#( ourtra!l a#d $!ll!#( my com+a#!o#'s m!#d *!th las+hemous thou(hts *h!ch occas!o#ally

rea out !# e@+ress!o#, !# s+!te o$ h!s res+ect $or my "cloth."3our m!les o$ th!s moose?hu#t, *!th the !( rute (ro*!#( more t!red a#d *e more ;:a#@!ous to +ass h!m. I#stead o$ our hu#t!#( the moose he !s hau#t!#( us. At last, arou#d al!ttle +o!#t o$ *oods, *e see h!m ly!#( do*# !# the m!ddle o$ the r! er r!(ht ahead o$ us.-he do(s rea ou#ds a#d almost u+set me as they dash do*# the tra!l *!th Bree esta#d!#( o# the ra e a#d yell!#( "=hoa0" -he *eary ull?moose sta((ers to h!s $eeta(a!# a#d ma es the ed(e o$ the *oods, ut there l!es do*# a(a!#.

-he tra!l eers r!(ht u+ to h!m. I ru# ahead a#d ta e "Leader" a#d "4!#(," o#e !# eachha#d, a#d Bree e does the same *!th "-eddy" a#d "Shee+." "&oose" !s more tracta le

a#d *e ca# co#trol h!m *!th our o!ces. =e dra( the do(s od!ly *!th the sled eh!#d, +ass the !( rute, h!s lo#( $ace #ot a rod $rom us, a#d the#, sett!#( "Leader" o# the tra!la(a!#, *e ur(e them do*# $! e m!les $urther to "Ha++y 4! er 4oadhouse." -hat *as one hu#t !# *h!ch I *as (lad to lose the (ame.

3our hu#dred m!les $rom our start!#( +o!#t *e +ut u+ at the "8!o#eer 4oadhouse" !# thel!ttle to*# o$ #! at the head o$ oo 's I#let. -h!s *as o#e o$ hal$ a do e# small to*#sarou#d #! Arm a#d -ur#?a(a!# Arm, the t*o +ro#(s o$ oo 's ;E I#let. -hese to*#shad ee# !# e@!ste#ce $or $!$tee# or t*e#ty years, *!th (old?m!#ers a#d the!r $am!l!esl! !#( there a#d yet, here at #! , I +reached the $!rst sermo# that had e er ee#

+reached !# a re(!o# lar(er tha# the state o$ 8e##syl a#!a0 -h!s !s!t led to theesta l!shme#t o$ a #um er o$ m!ss!o#s !# that re(!o#, *h!ch !s #o* tra ersed y the #e*Go er#me#t ra!lroad. -he to*#s o$ A#chora(e a#d &ata#us a ha e s+ru#( !#to e@!ste#cea#d a thr! !#( +o+ulat!o# o$ ra!lroad u!lders, coal m!#ers, (old m!#ers, $armers a#d me#o$ other trades a#d +ro$ess!o#s has settled there.

I le$t Id!tarod o# &arch $!$th. I s*u#( !#to Se*ard at #!#e o'cloc o# the mor#!#( o$&arch t*e#ty?e!(hth a#d *as heart!ly (reeted a#d e#terta!#ed y 4e . L. S. 8ederse#,

+astor o$ the &ethod!st hurch. He *as a +hoto(ra+her as *ell as a +reacher, a#d too


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the +!cture o$ my arr! al. I# s+!te o$ the!r hard *or , my do(s *ere $atter a#d $uller o$"+e+" tha# *he# *e started.

I $a!rly cr!ed *he# I ade my team (ood? ye at Se*ard, ta !#( each eaut!$ul head !# myarms a#d tal !#( to them all. -hey seemed to $eel the +art!#( as ee#ly as I, $or there *as

a (e#eral chorus o$ mour#$ul ;< ho*ls as I tur#ed a*ay. I #e er sa* my s+le#d!d do(sa(a!#, $or the ma# *ho e#(a(ed to ta e them ac to Id!tarod $a!led to ee+ to h!s ar(a!#, a#d I had to (! e them to the ma# *ho cared $or a#d $ed them at Sus!t#a. I shall#e er $!#d a#other team l! e them.

Not*!thsta#d!#( the hea !#ess o$ the tra!l, the !tter stru((les o er mou#ta!#s a#dthrou(h dee+ s#o*s, #ot to me#t!o# the +a!#s o$ lum a(o, I loo ac u+o# that tr!+ a#dother tr!+s l! e !t *!th oy$ul recollect!o# a#d lo#(!#( to re+eat the e@+er!e#ce. I *ouldrather ta

Adventures in Alaska

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