accent october 09 edition

ACCENTS O U T H M I S S I S S I P P I

It’s Fall in South Mississippi

OCTOBER 2009

SOUTH MS CUISINE | BEAUVOIR RESTORATION | ARTIST STACEY JOHNSON | BEEKEEPING | LIFE’S SECOND CHANCE

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EDITOR-IN-CHIEFRobyn Jackson

[email protected]

CONTRIBUTORSTrudy Berger

Karen BlakeneyCharlotte Blom

Layla EssaryLouie GalianoKristen TwedtValerie Wells

GUEST COLUMNISTSDawn Gillis

Karen BlakeneyJames Welch

ADVERTISINGFor advertising information

Kristi CarverBrookhaven and McComb

[email protected]

Charlotte BlomHattiesburg

[email protected]

DESIGN & FABRICATIONLisa W. Pittman

[email protected]

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ACCENT South Mississippi is publishedbimonthly by

SoMiss Publishing LLC Post Office Box 19027

Hattiesburg, MS 39404-9027

SoMiss Publishing LLC.All rights reserved. Contents of this

magazine may not be reproduced in any manner without

written consent from Publisher. ACCENT South Mississippi cannot

be held liable for errors and omissions.

Printed in the U.S.A.

Volume 1, Number 3 • October 2009

ACCENTSOUTH MISSISSIPPI

www.accentsouthmississippi.com

4 accent south mississippi

C O N T E N T S features

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BEAUTIFUL AGAINby Valerie Wells

Hattiesburg architect Larry Albert oversees restoration of historic Beauvoir

Petal beekeepers buzz about honey’s healing powers

SWEET AS HONEYby Charlotte Blom

BREAKFAST AT TIFFANY’Sby Layla Essary

Junior Auxiliary to host charity ball to fund annualservice projects

RINGSIDE AT RICHBURGby Valerie Wells

Sullivan-Kilrain fight made headlines and raised aruckus 120 years ago

WILD AT HEARTby Layla Essary

Transplant gives Hattiesburg woman second chanceat life

ON THE COVER Decorate with ScarecrowsPhotography - PhotoXpress

ABOVE Pumpkin PaintingPhotography by Erica Sherrill Owens

october 2009 | ACCENT SOUTH MISSISSIPPI | VOL . 1, NO. 3

Season’s Best!


C O N T E N T SOCTOBER 2009 | ACCENT SOUTH MISSISSIPPI 12

GUEST COLUMNS

ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

in every issue

DAWN GILLISStill waiting for a cure

14 JAMES WELCHSouthern gatheringsalways include family,fun and food

32 SEASON’S BESTFall photo essay by EricaOwens

46 SISSY AND THE INEZRESTAURANTA love affair with food inBrookhaven

34 CLAY MATESCoast artist infuses emotioninto handcrafted figures

SOUTH MS CUISINE

42 WHEN THE STOMACH IS FULL,THE HEART IS CONTENTJoyce & Darnell’s in Carriere

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FRESH FROM THE FARMHattiesburg’s New Yokel Marketcaters to organic food lovers

IN THE KITCHEN54 APPLE-ICIOUS

Autumn’s favorite bountyTry these delicious recipes andenjoy the best of fall’s harvest

55 PUMPKINSPumpkins - not just for carving

48 “I COULD EAT IT ALL”The Dinner Bell in McCombkeeps the tables loaded withSouthern specialties

50 SEAFOOD THE OLD BILOXI WAYTaranto’s Crawfish and More isworth the drive to Woolmarket

53 BRING YOUR APPETITESample the best of Brookhaven’srestaurants and caterers at Tasteof the Trust

10 Editor’s Notes56 Life in South Mississippi

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CONTRIBUTORS

TRUDY BERGER, a retired business consultant who moved to Southwest Mississippiafter a 30-year professional career in Houston, is an election commissioner for PikeCounty and a volunteer for the Summit Historical Society, the McComb DepotRailroad Museum and the Preservation Commission in her current hometown. She is agraduate of the LSU School of Journalism.

KAREN BLAKENEY is an award-winning writer who lives in Gulfport with herhusband and five children. Before graduating from Millsaps College, she studiedart and poetry at St. John’s College at Oxford University. Karen has recentlycompleted a memoir about her young son’s struggle to overcome ScimitarSyndrome and Congenital Kyphosis. She maintains a congenital heart defectsWeb site, www.NathansPrayer.com.

LOUIS A. GALIANO owns an antiques store with his wife Debbie in Picayune. Agraduate of Louisiana State University with twin degrees in English and business,his career has been mostly in management and in teaching college economics. Heis presently at work on his second novel, a sequel to his first, “Snorkel -Immersions in Time.” Born in New Orleans, he moved to the Picayune area morethan 20 years ago.

KRISTEN TWEDT is a freelance writer whose work has appeared in the ChristianScience Monitor, Mississippi Magazine, South Mississippi Scene, The HattiesburgAmerican and various online ezines. Books include “A Tribute to Mom,” and “MyCrazy Christmas Catastrophe Cat.” A Mississippi Gulf Coast native and graduate ofthe University of Southern Mississippi, Kristen lives in Hattiesburg with husbandSteven and two children, Sam and Katie. Samples of her columns appear atwww.kristenscolumn.blogspot.com.

VALERIE WELLS is a freelance writer who has covered all aspects of communityjournalism for the past 20 years. A military brat with deep roots in SouthMississippi, she looks for stories about the shared history and culture of the regionbrought to life by everyday folk. She has written for national and regional maga-zines and has been editor of several publications and Web sites. She lives inHattiesburg with a patient husband and two well-adjusted sons.

LAYLA ESSARY is a freelance writer for various publications and works as a con-tract public relations consultant. Before fulfill ing communication roles with twoarea-wide non-profit organizations, Layla worked for nearly a decade as an anchorand reporter for local television stations in Mississippi. She and her husband Mikeenjoy watching their two elementary-aged kids play baseball and participate inswim team activities.

CHARLOTTE BLOM has a bachelor of arts degree from Vassar College. She has beenfreelance copy editing and writing for years, as well as sampling unrelated profes-sional experiences. She enjoys exploring, hunting and gathering in and around herhome in Hattiesburg.


EDITOR’S NOTES

OONE OF THE BEST THINGS ABOUT BEING FEATURESEDITOR AT A DAILY NEWSPAPER IS ALL THE FREECOOKBOOKS YOU GET IN THE MAIL. PUBLISHERS WERE

SINCERELY SOUTHERN

F O O D , G L O R I O U S F O O D

Robyn Jackson

always sending me review copies of their cookbooks when I was features editor atthe Hattiesburg American, and I gladly found ways to include as many of the cook-books as possible on the weekly food page. A locally-produced volume, such as theone from Hattiesburg’s Main Street Baptist Church featured in this issue’s article onpumpkin recipes, would get a full feature with photos and several sample recipes.Sometimes, I just pulled a recipe or two from several cookbooks to include in around-up type of story (try these lasagnas, chicken casseroles, fruit pies, etc.).

The cookbooks piled up on my desk and filled my filing cabinet drawers until Iwas done with them. I gave away a fair number to co-workers, but many of thebooks came home with me. Now, I have a shelf full of cookbooks collected duringmy 25 years in the newspaper business, and I still enjoy leafing through them occa-sionally. Like a lot of other collectors, I enjoy curling up with a good cookbook,salivating over the beautiful color photographs and fantasizing about how therecipes taste, imagining the feast I might prepare for my family and friends.

The funny thing is, I hardly ever try any of the recipes in the books! Once in awhile I go through one or two looking for something new to try. I have a few quickand easy recipes that I fall back on, and it’s easy to get stuck in a recipe rut whenyou cook the same meals week after week. A new cookbook usually inspires me toat least try one or two new recipes. Occasionally, one will become part of my reper-toire.

One of the best things about living in South Mississippi is the food. Whether wedine with friends at one of our favorite restaurants, cook for ourselves at home, orenjoy the spread at a family reunion, church dinner on the grounds or an office pot-luck, we have an abundance of tasty choices. No wonder Mississippi has the unfor-tunate distinction of being the most overweight state in the nation. The caloriesfrom all those delicious meals of fried chicken or shrimp gumbo add up quickly,but how can we pass up those buttery biscuits or that bowl of peach cobbler toppedby a scoop of homemade vanilla ice cream?

This issue of Accent South Mississippi celebrates the cuisine of our region. Fromtraditional Southern dishes and Creole/Cajun-flavored treats to farm-raisedMississippi Delta catfish and fresh Gulf seafood, we are truly blessed to live in apart of the world where good food is such a tremendous part of life. And with theholidays almost here, the feast is about to begin. Pass the cornbread dressing andenjoy!

BROOKHAVEN LITTLE THEATRE

SUPPORT THE LOCAL ARTS

www.brookhavenllittletheatre.org


GUEST COLUMN | dawn gillis

October marks the 25th anniversary of Breast Cancer Awareness Month.The National Breast Cancer Awareness Month organization is a partnership of national public

service organizations, professional medical associations and government agencies working together to promote breastcancer awareness, share information on the disease,

and provide greater access to screening services.

For more information, go to www.nbcam.org.

IIn August of 1997, it wastime for my yearly visit tothe mammography depart-ment at Wesley MedicalCenter in Hattiesburg. Asusual, I also needed anultrasound because mybreasts were very dense. Ileft there thinking, “I’mglad that’s done for anotheryear!”

A few days later, Ireceived a call from mydoctor’s office saying thathe wanted a needle biopsyperformed because therewas a small area of calcifi-cation that he wantedchecked. Off to LAW forthat procedure, which was-n’t too fun. A few dayslater, “that” call came infrom the doctor himself,giving me that dreaded

diagnosis: breast cancer.It was quite a shock

because I always had mymammograms and did self-exams and never felt any-thing unusual. The nextweek I got all the details. Itwas a very small area,stage 1, but I needed a mas-tectomy. I had never hadsurgery before, nor been ina hospital other than forchild birth. On the morningof surgery I remember theanesthesiologist saying,“Boy, you really picked oneto start out with!”

Fortunately for me, thearea was very small andthere was no node involve-ment and prognosis wasexcellent. After conferringwith the oncologist, it wasdecided that I did not have

to undergo chemotherapyand radiation. Thank God!Nevertheless, all of thiswas very traumatic andrecovery was slow. Twoyears later, after a thoroughrecovery and mentalacceptance, I had recon-structive surgery. Now,each year, I have my visitto the doctor and severallab procedures and anultrasound. So far, so good.

I am a prime example ofthe importance of yearlymammograms and self-exams. Some women eitherput off mammogramsbecause of the discomfortor fear of diagnosis or theycannot afford the cost.Today, there is no need forthese excuses. There areseveral funding sources in

Stil l wai t ing for a cureSURVIVING BREAST CANCER INSPIRED DAWN GILLIS TO

START A FOUNDATION TO HELP OTHERS

TEXT BY DAWN GILLIS

accent south mississippi 13

TO PURCHASE A COPY OF “The Pink Palate” or “Sweet Success” cookbooks, go to

www.waiting4acure.org or call (601) 543-5719.

our area to help with costsand there are many supportsystems on which to lean.The earlier breast cancer isfound, the better the out-come.

As a result of my experi-ence, I created the WaitingFor a Cure Foundation tohelp other women throughbreast health education, pro-viding a support system,especially for the newlydiagnosed, and financialsupport especially for theuninsured. “The Pink Palate”breast cancer survivor cook-book kick-started theFoundation. It set a recordfor the number of reprints bythe printing company andreceived cookbook of theyear honors in 2007. Threeyears later, it is still a hotcommodity, even though itssequel, “Sweet Success,” isexperiencing brisk sales, aswell. All monies from thesesales have been put back intothe community to helppatients, survivors and theirimmediate families.

Sometimes things happenin our lives that we don’tunderstand and are hard toaccept. I truly believe that ifI had not received that diag-nosis, Waiting For a CureFoundation might not existtoday and many ladieswould not have benefittedfrom its services. So, we trekon, doing our thing, andfeeling “warm fuzzies”because of it.

Dawn Gillis, second from right, was honored by Forrest General Hospital’sSpirit of Women for her work to promote breast cancer awareness.

GUEST COLUMN | james welch

TTEXT BY JAMES WELCH

The sweet aroma ofgrandmother’s fresh-bakedcornbread drifts throughthe warm air.

Various thuds andgrunts can be heard fromthe backyard as cousinsand uncles toss the foot-ball around. The dirt fliesas they spin on their heelsto make a difficult catch.

An ever-increasingpleasance hangs in the airas family members beginarriving for what has

become as much a part ofMississippi as pine treesor mud. These very infor-mal family gatherings hap-pen rather frequently allacross our great state.

The informality of it hasbecome the very thing thatis so beautiful about it. Wecan arrive in comfortableattire and not be con-cerned in the slightest, astoday we are completelysurrounded by those wholove us. Flip-flops are thenorm and shorts the mostpractical, in the fight tobeat the heat. The impor-tance of comfort overshad-ows the importance oflooking prim when we areback home.

The sounds of childrenat play ring with aresounding and very satis-fying nature, as theirlaughter instantly makesone smile. Mothers snappictures as children runby, playing cops and rob-bers or cowboys andIndians. Jump ropes andFrisbees lay motionless inthe yard as the childrenplay chase or climb a tree.With dirt on their facesthey laugh and play. Even

this helps to ease themood and provide for thisunique atmosphere.

Meals of mouth-water-ing baked beans, delec-table pulled pork anduncle Bill’s brisket beginarriving. Delicious Potatosalad and coleslaw thatcombine choice ingredi-ents which explode withdivine flavor upon eachbite start lining the foldingtables as people congre-gate around them. Saladsand casseroles are plenti-ful and recipes areexchanged. Paper platesand disposable napkinsare used, to even furtherdecrease the workinvolved, proving that theultimate goal is to dissi-pate any stress that isbrought to the table.

The conversations takesatisfying strolls throughtopics like the weather, thenews and how juicy thehamburgers are. The dia-logue is genuine and noulterior motives exist,because you’re amongstfamily. Almost as a rou-tine there will be talk ofrecent ailments and accom-plishments throughout the

Southern gatherings always include


de family, fun, and fantastic food!

family. Discussions about work, play and lifegoals are almost certain to be had. Then, therewill be rejoicing together and grieving together,where needed, as families tend to do. Topicsnever stay glum long, though, before returningto happy times and reminiscences of all the oldfamily stories. Lots of laughs help to create avery unique, light-hearted environment whereyou can truly feel free.

The savory smells of pies and cakes fill thehouse and begin to lighten the already easygoingmood as their aromas mix and mingle with thearomas from the wide array of foods being pre-pared. By now everyone is anxious to eat afterbeing subjected to the amazing ways thatSouthern foods penetrate all of our senses atonce. We smell them, see them and just can’twait to taste them.

Great Southern cuisine penetrates us rightdown to our souls. As we eat an amazing culi-nary masterpiece we begin to become increasing-ly happy. Our souls crave great food as much asour stomachs do. Each enjoyable bite comes withan increased pleasantness, until we feel that oursouls are filled. Each sweet flavor seems tosweeten our mood and each spice seems to spice

up our lives. With each delightful bite we candelight in how wonderful life is and savor themoment.

We use these meetings, comprised of greatfood, family and friends, to celebrate everythingfrom Little League games to The World Series.We gather in this way, over great Southernentrees, to celebrate a wedding or an anniver-sary, when we see the kids off to college andwhen someone retires from a fulfilling career.When welcoming a baby into the world, one canexpect to find these types of assemblies. No mat-ter the occasion, I think you’ll agree that thesegatherings are essential to our Southern lives.

The fondest memories I have of my grand-mother involve her at the stove, or our familyenjoying her wonderful meals. When anyone vis-ited with her, she began by saying hello andimmediately began asking if they were hungry.It was very important to her that when you lefther home, you were full, so periodically through-out a conversation she’d interject with somethinglike “Would you like a slice of pie?” I now seethat she understood that a good visit was com-plete when mind, body and soul were filled withgreat Southern cuisine.

DESTINATIONS | beauvoir

BEAUTIFUL AGAINHattiesburg architect Larry Albert

oversees restoration of historic Beauvoir

OOne of the signs of the Gulf Coast’s rejuvenation is awhite, raised cottage Greek Revival home built in 1848 ona prominent corner in an old city.

Beauvoir, the small mansion in Biloxi where JeffersonDavis spent his retirement, survived 21 hurricanes before2005. The president of the Confederacy moved to thisbeachfront property in 1877 and lived here until he diedin 1889.

After Hurricane Katrina ripped the porch off the oldhouse and left behind a skeleton of wood, many assumedBeauvoir was hopelessly destroyed.

Now restored, Beauvoir - French for beautiful to lookat - hides an invisible strength inside its graceful walls.

“We have made the building 90 percent stronger thanbefore Katrina,” said Larry Albert, the Hattiesburg archi-tect who oversaw the detailed historic renovation.

TEXT BY VALERIE WELLSPHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY ALBERT & ASSOCIATES


Reinforced steel is the hidden skeleton of the housenow that buckles Beauvoir tightly to the ground.Surrounded by wood and steel, visitors would not beable to see the steel. Instead, they would see a scenefrom the late 19th century.

“It looks the same now,” Albert said.Other treasures to look for are the wall and ceiling

paintings. Visitors who saw Beauvoir before Katrinawill see richer colors in the restoration, including afaux painted oak door.

Albert began the massive undertaking in May 2006.The work took just a little more than one year. OnJefferson Davis’s 200th birthday on June 3, 2007,Beauvoir reopened to the public.

“It’s worth a trip to see it replicated,” Albert said.About 100 to 150 visitors come to the grounds every

day, said Rick Forte, acting director and chairman ofthe board of Mississippi Division of the Sons of

The ceiling of the formal reception hall isthe star attaction.


Confederate Veterans, the organization that ownsand operates the site. He’d like to see closer to 250visitors daily to help offset the costs of rebuildingand maintaining the property.

“If Jefferson Davis hadn’t lived in Beauvoir, acasino would be there now,” Forte said.

Just like the hidden steel that keeps the housebuckled to the ground, Jefferson Davis the man hasmore layers than what most of us remember - thathe was the political head of the South during theCivil War.

Forte wants visitors to know Davis was also aU.S. senator, a hero of the Mexican War, secretaryof war under President Pierce and a founder of theSmithsonian Institution. If not for the Civil War (orthe War Between the States if you prefer) , Daviswould have been president of the United States,Forte contends.

After Davis died, the 51 acres with cottagesbecame a home for Confederate veterans and theirwidows. As late as the 1950s, some of the lastConfederate widows were still living on thegrounds. Forte’s mission today is to “educate theworld about Jefferson Davis and the Confederatesoldier.”

A cemetery on the property includes the gravesof hundreds of Confederate soldiers.

Besides the Greek Revival home and its furnish-ings, other buildings on site include replicas of thecottages that were destroyed by Katrina. A newpresidential library and museum will be built just30 yards away from where the old one was, a movedictated in order to get federal money to fund therebuild. Other outbuildings that were lost toKatrina will be replicated in accurate historic detail.Plans to recreate Varina Davis’s flower and veg-etable garden will be historically correct also, onlyusing plants Miss Varina would have used.

Beauvoir is open from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. every dayexcept Thanksgiving and Christmas.

It’s easy to find, too. The address, 2244 BeachBlvd., is at the corner of U.S. 90 and Beauvoir Road,right next to the Mississippi Gulf Coast Coliseum.Guided tours are available to adults for $9 and chil-dren for $5. For information, call (228) 388-4400 orgo to www.beauvoir.org.

Above, the parlor leading to the library andbeams removed from Beauvoir during therestoration process.

HONEY


Petal beekeepers buzz abouthoney’s healing powers

B

FEATURES |beekeeper

Billie Jean Crosby greeted me at the front doorin her striped blue T-shirt and jeans shorts andstepped aside to invite me into the living room.Serenading me with a howl from the top of theirbrown leather couch was a little blonde dog,Angel. Beside her stood the jovial 78-year-oldbeekeeper, Grady “Bud” Crosby. Billie Jean andBud are the dynamic duo behind “B&B” BeeFarm, based out of Petal.

At their kitchen counter they recounted sev-eral stories of how they came into beekeeping,all the places they’ve lived before settling intoretirement at their 2-acre property, various sce-narios of their mailboxes’ demise (it had justbeen knocked over for the 17th time the daybefore), and about all four of their dogs, includ-ing 3-legged dog, Lucky, and their blind dog,Bear. Bud and Billie Jean, married for 57 years,have an easy rapport with one another, oftenmaking witty plays on words as Billie Jeanaffixed labels on a couple of jars of honey and ajar of bee pollen, which she takes religiously.

“Oh, she won’t go a day without it,” saidBud.

Billie Jean explained that bee pollen (traces ofwhich are found in honey) is good for allergies,arthritis and that some people even consume it,by the spoonful, for energy, although in someusers, it might aggravate some allergies. But in

order to get the benefits from it, especially theanti-allergenic effects, Bud specified, it has to belocally-produced honey.

“Don’t be foolish enough to go buy honeyfrom a health food store from California,” Budwarned. Honey, they also informed me, has anti-bacterial properties, one time healing a stubborn-ly inflamed dog scratch on Billie Jean’s arm.

The Crosbys hadn’t actually meant to get intobeekeeping. After Bud retired 23 years ago fromUnited Gas Pipeline, the couple intended tospend more time tending to the earth and theirgarden, as well as the blueberries, bananas, mus-cadines, Bradford pear trees and peach trees allgrowing in their back yard. Each summer, adver-tised only by a roadside sign, blueberry pickingalso brings the Crosbys “hundreds of gallons”worth of business.

Bud decided to start one honey bee hive inorder to help pollinate their plants. But soon thesole hive was attracting more swarms, and sincea hive can only have one queen, “just likewomen,” Bud joked, he had to get more. By theend of the first year, the Crosbys were up to fivehives. After 22 years, “B&B” Bee Farm expandedto more than 20 hives at several locations,including Lumberton.

As the couple demonstrated the process ofextracting honey, recounted facts about the bees’

TEXT AND PHOTOS BY CHARLOTTE BLOM

sweet as

intricate organizational and socialorder, and beekeeping, Bud’s amaze-ment seemed fresh, even after twodecades of experience. “They areabsolutely fascinating,” he said. “Itboggles my mind … They are undoubt-edly the greatest little insect the goodLord ever made. And I’ve never heardof an atheist beekeeper.”

For more information on B&BBee Farm, call (601) 584-8433.Honey is sold at the following

locations: Stick’s Bar B Q,Corner Market in Hattiesburg’s

University Mall and Petal,Ramey’s in Purvis, Petal

Discount Grocery, Chuck Wagonin Runnelstown and Cuevas Fish

House in Lumberton.Pollen jars are sold at Vitamins

Plus in Hattiesburg.


FEATURES | hattiesburg’s junior auxiliary

MTEXT AND PHOTOS BY LAYLA ESSARY

More than a hundred parents packed a room atthe Lake Terrace Convention Center inHattiesburg last spring to learn more about theemerging danger of internet predators. The JuniorAuxiliary of Hattiesburg hosted the “Surf Smart”program as a way for experts in the field of lawenforcement to educate parents about ways toprotect their children from dangers lurking on theWorld Wide Web.

“We were amazed by the community responseto this first ever project,” said Junior Auxiliary

project chair Kim Gibson. “JA was able to offerthis dynamic internet safety program to morethan 1600 parents and children in the very firstyear it was offered.”

“Surf Smart” is just one of the 25 service proj-ects sponsored by JA each year.

“Serving children and families throughout theHattiesburg region continues to be the mission ofthis incredible organization,” said JuniorAuxiliary of Hattiesburg President Hope Andy. “JAis comprised of more than a hundred committed

Breakfas t a t Ti f fany’s

JA to host “Breakfast at Tiffany’s”-themedCharity Ball to fund annual service projects

women who not only sacrifice time and resourcesfor others in need, but serve as a liaison to thecommunity to bring in valuable financial contri-butions through our annual Charity Ball.”

Each year JA provides a wide range of vitalsupport to Pine Belt area children, such as pro-viding nearly a thousand fully supplied back-packs to needy school children, hosting “Parent’sNight Out” events for families with special needschildren, and distributing college scholarships forarea high school seniors. All of the work conduct-ed by JA members is funded through the organi-zation’s annual Charity Ball.

This year’s Charity Ball, themed “Breakfast atTiffany’s - The Children Are Our Jewels” will beheld at 8 p.m. Friday, Nov. 13 at the Lake TerraceConvention Center. The event raises more than$100,000 to fund the organization’s annual serviceprojects.

While some of the projects started more than 50years ago, new service areas, such as “SurfSmart,” have been created as a response to emerg-ing issues related to children and family, said JASecond Vice-President Whitney Middleton.

“JA has been working to improve the lives ofchildren for decades here in Hattiesburg,”Middleton said. “We’re proud of the strong lega-cy of JA, through our willingness to get to knowthe children we serve on a personal level, and atthe same time, providing services to families we’llnever get to meet. It is a great experience know-ing that we are making a difference in this com-munity.”

“We’re excited about the ‘Breakfast at Tiffany’s’theme as a way to create an elegant atmospherefor our Charity Ball guests,” said Charity Ball Co-Chair Anita Wright. The event will feature a spec-tacular silent auction, exquisite artwork, and anassortment of goods and services from regionalbusinesses.

Once again this year the event will feature araffle to win a magnificent piece of jewelry valuedat more than $8,000 from Jewelmasters ofHattiesburg. Entertainment is provided by theband Meet the Press.

Tickets are $100, which admits two.For more information about this year’s

Charity Ball or the services of the JuniorAuxiliary of Hattiesburg, visit

www.hattiesburgjuniorauxiliary.org.


Junior Auxiliary members work tirelessly year-round on projects that promote the health andwell-being of children.


FEATURES | sullivan-kilrain fight

RRRR IIII NNNN GGGG SSSS IIII DDDD EEEE AAAA TTTT RRRR IIII CCCC HHHH BBBB UUUU RRRR GGGG

Sullivan-Kilrain fight made headlines and raised a

ruckus 120 years ago

T“The Bigger Brute Won,”read the headline in the NewYork Times on July 8, 1889.The national story’s datelinewas New Orleans, but the his-toric last bare-knuckle fighttook place 104 miles north-east, just outside Hattiesburg.

After 75 rounds, the fighterJohn L. Sullivan - the biggerbrute - defeated John “Jake”Kilrain near a Richburg sawmill.

The hype preceding the ille-gal fight was intense.Promoters made no secret oftheir plans to pit these twopugilists against each other.The secret was where the fightwould be. Speculation fell onNew Orleans and crazed boxingenthusiasts went nuts.

The mad rush out ofLouisiana to avoid the lawfilled train cars full ofreporters and onlookers. The

entire caper would make agreat movie. The event had itall - comic moments, runs fromthe law, raw violence and3,000 spectators - maybe asmany as 5,000 by someaccounts

Today, 120 years later, theRichburg site of the famoussporting event is now part ofHattiesburg. A road bears thename of both fighters as if“Sullivan Kilrain” had been asingle man. A state landmarksign on Veteran’s Highway nearthe Pine Grove treatment facil-ity gives an abridged version ofthe famous fight.

Hattiesburg historian AndrewEnglish has written a lengthieraccount of the illegal matchthat attracted a wild mediacircus.

“Far from civilization andthe policeman’s baton this wasthe site where sports history

would be made,” English wrotein his new book, “Ringside atRichburg.”

His extensive examination oforiginal documents revealssomething of the panic amonglaw enforcement officials inthe Deep South who knew thisillegal fight was coming soonsomewhere nearby.

“Send me a posse of men atonce!” the sheriff of MarionCounty wrote to the sheriff ofLauderdale County. Englishincludes the note in his bookas well as the differingaccounts of 3,000 to 5,000 wit-nesses. He describes the “car-nival-like atmosphere” of thebout and the train ride to andfrom Richburg.

A substantial amount ofmoney was involved. Englishwrote that the promoters andinvestors made more than$24,000 from the eager fans.

TEXT BY VALERIE WELLS

Vendors on the train and atthe site made money sellingbeer, water and sandwiches tothe crowd.

Even though the fight wassupposed to start at 8 a.m., itcontinued most of the morn-ing. English notes that recordsshow it was 104 degrees before11 a.m. at the SouthMississippi spot surrounded bypine trees near a saw mill.

And the fight really did last75 rounds. Blow-by-blowaccounts appeared in manynewspapers. Sullivan probablyhad won the fight by the 68thround when Kilrain started toact dazed and some wonderedif he had a concussion or possi-bly a sun stroke from the Julysun. But he hung in therethrough the 75th round andcould take no more.

“Kilrain was done for at theend of the round and he had tobe ‘carried panting to his cor-

ner,’” English writes.Other records of the match

back this account.“The fight had lasted two

hours, sixteen minutes, andtwenty-three seconds, and thespectators, realizing they hadwitnessed something momen-tous, scrounged for souvenirs,”reads a report belonging to theUniversity of SouthernMississippi archives.

Not all those souvenirs wentfor free. Splinters of the ringposts sold for $5. Someonepaid $50 for Sullivan’s hat.

The law did catch up withthe illegal fighters eventually.Sullivan was arrested inNashville and Kilrain wasarrested in Baltimore. Theywould have to return toMississippi for another type offight.

“A Purvis, Mississippi juryfound Sullivan guilty of prize-fighting, and in the end, he

paid a $500 fine and left thestate,” according to the USMarchives.

“Kilrain, found guilty ofassault and battery was fined$500 and sentenced to sixmonths in jail.”

The national coverage thefight received was unprece-dented. Wire reports flew outof New Orleans. Even theWhite House got early wordthat Sullivan was won the fightin the Piney Woods.

In his introduction, Englishwrites about what the ringmust have looked like, how thecrowd acted and even won-dered about the smell of thegunpowder in the air.

“I wish I could have beenthere,” he wrote.

“Ringside at Richburg:America’s Last HeavyweightBare-knuckle Championship,”by Andrew R. English is avail-able at Main Street Books.


FEATURES | second chance at life

WILD AT HEART

AAbout four times a week,Toni Wild takes a short drivefrom her Oak Grove home to aHattiesburg gym. Within min-utes she settles into the familiarsurroundings of the weightroom, followed by a brisk jogon the treadmill. With eachnew day she is able to add a lit-tle more distance and a bitmore time to her training rou-tine.

Wild has her sights set onrunning a race in October. If itweren’t for the blue masksecured around her nose andmouth and a scar on her chest,there are few signs that beatinginside her chest is a heart thatshe received just a few shortmonths ago.

“I was sitting in the hospitalwhen we heard words thatwere so hard to hear. No onedreams they are going to haveto have a heart transplant.”

Those unimaginable wordsby her doctor this year is yetanother chapter in Toni Wild’sincredible journey of determi-nation and endurance.

After surviving cancer in1992, she once again had to bat-tle the disease in 1998. Thatround of chemotherapy didirreparable harm to her heart;

she was diagnosed with con-gestive heart failure and spentthe next decade of her life man-aging the condition with med-ications and a fierce adherenceto doctor’s orders.

“I was able to live a full lifeall these years, but I noticed Iwasn’t feeling well back inApril,” said Wild, dismissingthe malaise as a common cold.“I went to the cardiologist andwe tweaked the medicine some.But I could tell I was gettingvery winded walking evenshort distances. Something toldme it was heart related.”

Her hunch proved to be cor-rect. In May, Wild was referredback to Ochsner Medical Centerin New Orleans, where she hadbeen treated years before. Afterextensive tests, the medicalteam came to one conclusion.

“They told me at this pointthat all they could see as anoption was a heart transplant,”said Wild, reflecting on theimpact of those words. “It justmade us take a step back andstart asking whether this wasGod’s plan for us.”

For Toni, stepping backstirred up recollections of avery different type of hearttransplant decision twelve

years ago.In 1997, Toni’s first husband,

Tom Shoemaker, was tragicallykilled in a car accident. In thethick cloud of grief, Toni tookdecisive actions to donate anumber of his organs to othersin need - organs that includedhis heart.

“At the time of Tom’s acci-dent I took great comfort in themidst of my grief knowing thatmy loss could somehowenhance someone else’s life.Years later I found myself inthe hospital, realizing that Ineeded a heart. Just yearsprior I had given one away.”

POSITIVE ATTITUDE In 1999,the two-time cancer survivormet her future husband, JimWild.

“Of course, I didn’t know herwhen she went through thoseprevious adversities, but Iknew that she had this fantastic‘get on with life’ attitude thatdrew me to her,” he said.“And that’s never been truerthan now.”

In June of 2009, with theencouragement of her familyand friends, Toni Wild beganexhaustive efforts to be placedon the national heart transplant

TEXT BY LAYLA ESSARY

Transplant gives Hattiesburg woman second chance at life


registry. Each day Toni faced alitany of tests that had to bepassed before moving on to thenext step in the process.

“I had to take just aboutevery test imaginable,” saidWild. “We had to do bonescans and brain scans to makesure that there was no sign ofcancer visible. We did vascu-lar studies and G.I. studies.Every day it was somethingdifferent. Having had cancer,I waited with bated breath toget those results, just hopingeverything was clear.”

Jim said that those tryingdays not only drew the cou-ple closer, but they alsoformed incredible bonds withmembers of the Ochsner’sstaff.

“There were so many peo-ple there at the hos-pital that we grewclose to during ourdays of waiting,”said Jim Wild. “Wedeveloped this kindof synergy with thehospital staff wherewe received hopeand assurance fromthem, but I believewe were able to givelife and encourage-ment back to them,as well.”

Critical care nurseTeresa Green said she instantlyconnected with Toni and Jimduring their stay at OchsnerMedical. “I was truly touchedby their faith in God and ineach other,” said Green.“Working in a life or death set-

ting gives me lots of opportuni-ties to offer hope and supportto patients and families. Theywere so receptive and encour-aging.”

Soon Toni and Jim receivedthe results.

“Our medical team all cametogether with the conclusionthat I was a good candidate,”said Toni Wild. “Then theystarted putting the ball in

motion to place me on the reg-istry list. Before they wouldrelease me, they had to put meon a 24/7 heart medication I.V.That continuous supply of med-

icine is what kept me going.”The couple came home on

Memorial Day. So much hadhappened while they wereaway, including their oldestson’s graduation from highschool earlier that month.

“I had so many plans for hisgraduation,” said Wild. “I hadto realize that I was a hundredmiles away and couldn’t takecare of any of it. I had to relin-quish all of that and let familyand friends step in and put myplans into action. And that’sexactly what they did.”

They even provided a livevideo feed of the graduation.

“I had the best seatin the house,”laughed Toni.

MIXED EMOTIONSNow back at home,Toni and Jim Wildbegan the waitinggame.

“They told me itcould be monthsbefore I got the call.They encouraged usto not give up or losehope because thechances were good,”

said Toni. Factors like her goodhealth, body size, and antibod-ies played a role in those favor-able chances, not to mentionher blood type - B positive.

“Knowing that Toni’sblood type is B positive


seemed fitting to us, becauseof her positive attitude andperseverance,” said Jim Wild.“That resiliency resonated withthe staff at Ochsner’s. Andknowing that she had been inthe giving role years beforetouched them.”

Toni spent the next weekgetting back into the routine ofhome life, managing schedules,cooking, and running an occa-sional errand. Toni said themedications made her day-to-day life tolerable.

Content with the realizationthat they would probably haveto wait for months, a phonecall at 11:49 in the evening onJune 1 changed all that.

“It was Ochsner’s calling.Jim answered and handed methe phone. The lady on thephone said, ‘Toni, we have apossible heart for you. Packyour bags and get here quick-ly. When she said those wordsto me, you can’t imagine theflood of emotions that I experi-enced at that moment. I felt theblood rush from my head tomy feet.”

Toni said the bevy of mixedemotions came from knowingexactly what the donor familywas experiencing. “It’s anexperience you have to livethrough to understand. I knewthis family was agreeing to themost selfless act they could dofor someone else. It was truly abittersweet moment.”

So after only a week athome, the Wilds said theirgoodbyes to family, packed upquickly, and headed down to

New Orleans.After checking into the ICU,

her doctor greeted her withwords that Toni said she’llnever forget. “He said, ‘Girl, itlooks like it’s your day.’ I wasovercome with emotion. Atthat point, a lot of thoughtswent through my mind.”

Part of Toni’s anxietystemmed from witnessingcountless surgeries during hercareer as a nurse in an operat-ing room. “I’ve seen and beena part of many different typesof surgeries. Perhaps I knew alittle too much about what canhappen. You have to complete-ly rely on other people to beyour advocate, to do what’sbest for you.”

One of those advocates washer nurse, Teresa Green.

“My nurse was such a car-ing, sweet individual. Shewent down to surgery with meand held my hand and rightbefore they took me throughthe double doors she sang themost beautiful hymn to meand told me everything wouldbe OK.”

“It was a beautiful occasionto participate in that importantday,” Green said. “When youhave to face that kind of val-ley, in the end, you enter intosurgery alone. It was my joy towalk part of that road withher.”

“As you can imagine, Iwasn’t sure how it would turnout, but I had an inexplicablesense of peace that everythingwould be OK no matter theoutcome,” Toni said.

It took about five hours todo the heart transplant sur-gery. The doctors told JimWild that the heart was a per-fect fit for Toni.

“I feel like my old selfagain,” Toni said. “I’vealready forgotten what it feelslike to have shortness ofbreath. I can go all day with-out taking breaks and naps toget through the day and takecare of my family.”

In addition to resumingexercise and her role with fam-ily and friends, Toni is lookingfor opportunities to share herstory, to encourage others, andto help educate the publicabout the issue of organ dona-tion.

“I believe I’ve been givenanother chance at life for a rea-son and I will never take thatfor granted. It’s been a whilesince I’ve felt this good, andnow I just hope to get betterand stronger.”

Her goal is to be strongenough to run in the Susan G.Komen Race for the Cure thisOctober.

And while she doesn’texpect to run at full speed forthe entire distance of theevent, Toni Wild fully intendsto finish the race.

Toni Wild said she hopes tomeet the family of the heartdonor one day. She still keepsin contact with the recipientof the heart she donated 12years ago when her first hus-band, Tom, died.

ART | fall fun in south mississippi

Season’s BestIt’s time for Mother Nature to put on herbrilliant costume before winter brings drab skies to South Mississippi. Autumnbrings opportunities for families to carve or paint pumpkins, decorate with scarecrowsand mums, and try some of the tasty treatsthat are so popular this time of year.

PHOTOS BY ERICA SHERRILL OWENS

ART | artist stacey johnson


WTEXT AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY KAREN BLAKENEY

When I first met Ocean Springs artist StaceyJohnson, I was a little surprised. Viewing her art- vessels and sculptures with contorted facesexuding an assortment of emotions - had createdan odd expectation that she would be a somber,tortured soul. Instead, I found a charming, gen-tle spirit with a quiet smile and a blueberry cof-fee cake waiting on her stovetop. While sippingcoffee and enjoying warm cake, she gave meinsight into the creation of her unique art.

Her pieces usually begin with a title. “Therest of it flows naturally,” she says. “I try tokeep the faces unforced, loose, and gestural.”Stacey has found that too much manipulationcreates a “fussed over” appearance. “You cancommunicate a lot of emotion with a tiny splashof clay.”

Stacey’s love of art began as a child. “I stillhave small creations I made in clay as a three-year-old,” she laughs.

With her mother and other close relativesworking as artists, it seemed a natural path to

follow. Growing up in the Mississippi Delta, shedeveloped a respect for the “untrained work ofthe generally poverty-stricken and uneducatedfolk artists” in her community. She went on tostudy at Loyola; and after graduation, sheviewed an Art Brut exhibit in New York City.

The term, “Art Brut,” was coined by Frenchartist Jean Dubuffet to describe the raw art ofinsane asylum inmates. Art Brut and Southernfolk art have similar qualities that Stacey imme-diately recognized and admired. These genreshave been a major influence in her work. “Yougravitate toward certain artists,” she explains.“Certain components of their work seep intoyour style. That’s how you grow as an artist.”

Dedication to her craft has allowed her toamass a compelling body of work.

“I just have to do it,” she says. “Even if workis created and no one ever sees it, that’s OK withme.”

But, indeed, Stacey’s work has an audience.She is currently represented by Fischer Galleries

Coast artist infuses emotioninto handcrafted figures

CLAY MATES

PHOTOGRAPHY BY MARIS SIMMONS NICHOLAS

of Jackson and Southside Gallery of Oxford.Closer to home, her work may be purchasedor viewed at Hillyer House in OceanSprings. Stacey also has a line of functionalcups and vessels which she sells online(www.staceyjohnsonart.etsy.com). In creat-ing these smaller works of art, she drewupon the down-to-earth style of Southernfolk art face jugs, primarily created byAfrican-American slaves. “My versions aresimply modern translations, meant to beloved and enjoyed - not put on a shelf!”

I couldn’t leave without asking Staceyabout her self-portraits, possibly the sourceof my initial misguided expectations. Shesmiled knowingly and explained: “I don’tmean for (them) to come across asdepressed, angst-ridden; but I work frommy own turmoil … I don’t do self-portraitswhen I’m happy and content. It’s like jour-naling or therapy.”

Having completed several major piecesfor a recent exhibition, Stacey is alreadyeager to begin a new series of work featur-ing large bird figures. “It’s something I’mcompelled to do,” she says. “I can’t imag-ine my life without art.” PHOTOGRAPHY BY ROBERT LOWERY, LOWERY PHOTOGRAPHY

PHOTOGRAPHY BY IMAGING SERVICES OF THE UNIVERSITY OF MISSISSIPPI

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AITINGURE

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601.543.5719

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South Mississippi

Cuisine

PHOTOGRAPHY BY PHOTOXPRESS

2009

• Joyce & Darnell’s in Carriere

• New Yokel Market in Hattiesburg

• Inez Restaurant in Brookhaven

• Dinner Bell in McComb

• Taranto’s Crawfish & More in Biloxi

WHEN THE STOMACH IS FULL,THE HEART IS CONTENT …

Old Spanish Proverb

SOUTH MS CUISINE | carriere’s joyce & darnell’s

OTEXT AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY LOUIE GALIANO

One doesn’t usually come to the Picayune areafor a dinner of escargot and maple leaf duckwith mango wild rice, or maybe salmon cookedon cedar with a side of crab Oscar. Well, notunless you’re headed for Joyce and Darnell’sCasual Dining, which has some of the finest foodto be found in the Southland.

Hidden away in the pines of Carriere, Joyceand Darnell’s is easy enough to find. One driveseast from Picayune on Mississippi 43 North, orSycamore Road as it is known thereabouts, pass-es a large estate where actual giraffes, zebras,and camels roam the yard, goes about a half mile

and finds a small white sign on the left directingthem to the restaurant about a mile down. Againon the left, you will find a white rail fence adja-cent to a neat looking home. Enter and partake ofpalatal delights designed to make your tastebuds stand up and sing.

Joyce and Darnell Smith’s restaurant has beenin business for about two years and judging fromits growing reputation and ever expanding circleof clientele, it’s going to be around for a lotmore. So how did fine dining come to Carriere,Mississippi?

“Well,” says son Chef Kai Smith, “it was all


Open 5-10 p.m. Thursday throughSaturday and 11 a.m.-3 p.m. forSunday brunch

Directions - Joyce & Darnell’s CasualDining is located at 137 George WellsRd., Carriere

Call (601) 798-4734 or visitwww.greenroofinnjd.com

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Joyce & Darnell’s

sort of experimental, based on a premisethat the locals would respond positively toa higher culinary level.”

And positive it has been.Joyce and Darnell’s is a family affair.

While Kai the chef is constantly varying andimproving his menu, daughter Moné is aspecialist in pastries, both having beenschooled at the Culinary Institute ofAmerica in New York. Another daughter,Shaneka, is the merchandising and coordi-nation expert.

“She can make a small event seem like agala celebration,” Darnell says.

The Smith family is constantly innovatingfrom growing their own herbs to furnishinglive entertainment to crafting custom mealsfor diners with specific eating needs. Someof the recent kitchen creations include theirown sauces, vinegars, and steak rubs whichJoyce says that future strategy calls for mar-keting. Other plans include catering to busi-ness meetings, conferences, and private par-ties where Joyce and Darnell’s can set up afull course meal complete with white linentablecloths. Another eatery in Slidell, La., isalso in the works.

The restaurant is also part of the commu-nity. It has an agreement with PicayuneHigh School to employ and train students incooking and serving, teaching work ethics,and public contact. Joyce and Darnell’s isalso a member of Picayune Main Street, ahighly active organization dedicated toimproving the city’s appearance and busi-ness climate.

So what is the largest satisfaction otherthat serving up a filet mignon with a ricepilaf? Joyce and Darnell agree. It is thewonderful circumstance of being able towork with one’s whole family who meetafter hours in order to discuss the day’sevents and the surprises of tomorrow.

“What we want to do,” says Darnell, “isto bring something exciting to people’stable.”


SOUTH MS CUISINE | hattiesburg’s new yokel


FRESH FROM THE FARM

Hattiesburg’s New Yokel Marketcaters to organic food lovers

CTEXT AND PHOTOS BY VALERIE WELLS

Chris Cagle smiles at a cus-tomer and bends over anotepad on the brick counter atthe New Yokel Market in down-town Hattiesburg. It’s a longbend for the lanky 31-year-oldentrepreneur but his long pony-tail stays in place down hisback.

“I think of my customers asaccomplices,” Cagle said.

Many of his customers aremiddle-aged, conservativelydressed and passionate aboutbuying organic food. This isCagle’s niche. His family-owned New Yokel Market is anorganic grocery store and hisaccomplices come from all overthe Hattiesburg area to shophere.

“This is not like a hippie bas-tion,” Cagle said.

He first opened the store in2005 with some family mem-bers. At that time, it was onEast Pine Street. When a spaceopened up on his favorite cor-ner, Cagle moved the businessto 205 N. Main St.

Cagle knows the block well.When he was 23 and still livingin Meridian, he came downwith friends to hear a band

playing at the Thirsty Hippo.He began to see it as an oasisand became part of a social net-work headed up by Erik Eaves,who owned the Hippo and thebuilding next door housingMain Street Books.

When the bookstore movedinto a larger space across thestreet, The New Yokel got anew home.

“I don’t think Erik getsenough credit for what he hasdone in downtownHattiesburg,” Cagle said.

Through that Thirsty Hipponetwork, more young profes-sionals have come downtown tolive and work and take wildchances starting new business-es. Cagle said those friendshipshave led to business decisionsand partnerships.

The mural on the outsidewall of the grocery store depictsthe organic farm of Tom Dana,a South Mississippian knownfor growing produce withoutchemical fertilizers or pesti-cides. Hattiesburg artist SpenceTownsend, another member ofthe Thirsty Hippo network,painted it.

Not only does the New Yokel

Market sell organic products,the store offers several pre-pared foods. Cagle’s youngersister Anna makes vegetarianbreads, fresh salads and cre-ative sandwiches for salethroughout the day.

“Soup is her greatest expres-sion,” he said.

Cagle has traveled across thecountry visiting various organicfarms and educating himself onfood issues. He’s also studiedeconomics and history and seesdeep connections between glob-al issues and what’s in yourrefrigerator right now.

“After World War II, foodbecame industrialized,” Caglebegins, as he sits down andstarts a conversation about themetabolic crisis ofMississippians and big busi-ness’s role in controlling thefood system.

The organic food movementis a reaction to the industrialtake-over of how Americanseat, Cagle said.

He has simple advice forshopping for healthier food inany store: Read the labels.Avoid the following as much aspossible:

- Words you can’t pronounce.- Any ingredient preceded by the word

“From.”- Any preservatives or coloring.“Basically anything that isn’t food,” he

said.He also suggests only shopping on the

outside aisles of grocery stores where thefresh food tends to be displayed and avoidthe inner aisles altogether. Healthy foodhas a short shelf life, Cagle said.

“Don’t eat anything your great-grand-mother wouldn‘t eat,” he said, citingauthor Michael Pollan.

He is passionate on the subject but does-n’t go around fighting for his cause.

“I educate by diffusion, not by infusion,”Cagle said. “The decisions people make bychoosing food are powerful.”

Cagle’s decision to move to Hattiesburgwas powerful, also.

“In my heart, I’m a farmer,” he said.But selling organic food and being

around other young entrepreneurs iswhere he wants to be right now.

Hattiesburg, he contends, is probablythe coolest city in Mississippi.

“Because of the young people cyclingthrough there’s open mindedness,” Caglesaid. It’s a college town but is also a citywith a substantial population outside thecolleges, which Cagle argues makes it dif-ferent than an Oxford. Hattiesburg’s histo-ry of civil rights reforms impressed Cagle.He says that kind of thinking and actionhas spilled over into other ways of think-ing.

“It tends to make the town cooler,” hesaid.

Even though it’s cool, it’s not alwayseasy running a small business. Cagle worksmore than 10 hours a day most days.

“It’s a labor of love. We entrepreneursare all in the same boat, striving not to besomeone’s employee. We are eking it out,”he said.

“We need more people to step out andtake a risk and watch magic happen.”

Directions: New Yokel Market, 215 N.Main St., is located at the intersectionof Main and Buschman streets in down-town Hattiesburg.

Hours: The organic grocery store isopen 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. Monday throughSaturday and noon to 6 p.m. Sunday. Inaddition to groceries, fresh homemadesoups, salads and sandwiches areavailable daily.

For information: Call (601) 584-5048 orgo to www.newyokel.com.

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New Yokel Market

SOUTH MS CUISINE | brookhaven’s old inez

A love affair with food in Brookhaven

SISSY AND THE INEZ RESTAURANT

WTEXT AND PHOTOS BY TRUDY BERGER

When a writer is asked to do a story abouta restaurant, one assumes the story will beabout food and ambience, recipes, all theusual things one expects in a food story. Sowhen I arrived at the Inez Restaurant I expect-ed to write about the food, ambience, etc. Ifthat is all I wrote about, the readers would becheated out of the real story.

Don’t get me wrong, people who eat herethree or four times a week are clearly comingback for a reason. The reason they come backis consistently high quality fresh food, pur-chased at market every day and prepared toexacting standards, served with Southerncharm and a family-like atmosphere.

It is the source of the standards, charm andatmosphere that is the real story - her name isSissy Davis. And although she passed away inSeptember of 2005, her spirit is alive and wellwithin the walls of the Inez Restaurant. Herrules and standards tumble forth in staccato-like tones from the mouth of her son Ricky,who now manages the restaurant. “My mothersaid if you worry about the cash register, youdon’t belong in the restaurant business –focus first on the food, and then on the cus-tomer and the cash register will take care ofitself … Fresh flowers on every table, everyday … My mother said always buy 16-18count fresh shrimp; if you can’t have 16-18count fresh shrimp, then you don’t haveshrimp on the menu – and you know what?She was right!”

Ricky Davis can go on like that endlessly,talking about his mother’s rules and exactingstandards for food quality and preparation.These words pour forth as he waits on cus-

tomers, processes credit card transactions,politely asks a waitress to get a customersome more ice tea, and never misses a beat inthe interview. And one cannot really arguewith success, because The Inez Restaurant hasjust celebrated its 20th anniversary. If Sissywalked through the front door of the restau-rant today, she would give Ricky an A+ foradhering rigorously to the rules.

Don and Sissy Davis, the founders of theInez Restaurant, got their start in the foodbusiness after they moved to Wesson fromHammond, La. Don had been a banker inHammond and while there he and Sissy hadstarted a Sunday brunch club with one othercouple; eight months later there were 200 peo-ple in the club and a priest was saying massat their gatherings, largely due to Sissy’scooking prowess. Don brags to this day abouthis wife: “She could taste something one timeand then cook it flawlessly – she couldimprove upon it! She could do anything.”Sissy and Don’s joy in cooking together hadbeen established and it was inevitable thatone day they would venture into the restau-rant business.

Once they moved to Wesson, Don said“Sissy wanted to do something else with foodso we started preparing suppers for peoplewho worked – we cooked, packaged anddelivered them to about 40-50 people as faraway as Brookhaven; all they had to do waspop them in the microwave and heat themwhen they got home.”

But according to Don, what people reallywanted was lunch in Brookhaven – and morethan lunch, a place to have lunch. “One day


we had made our deliveries and we wereparked two doors down from the Inez – we sawsome people inside and decided to talk tothem.”

It turned out that no one had been able tomake a success of the restaurant and the peopleinside were the owners of the property. Sissyand Don walked back out to the car and Donsaid “Do you want to buy it?” They walkedright back inside, bought it and the rest washard work, dedication and history.

From the outset Don and Sissy worked sideby side – then their children worked alongsidethem. A look around the restaurant provides agenealogy of the family. Don and Sissy’s pic-tures are everywhere; there are pictures paint-ed by aunts, a grandmother, paintings of Sissyand a sister as young girls on LakePontchartrain, and framed needlepoint tapes-tries done by other family members.

A year after Sissy’s death, Don suffered about with esophageal cancer followed by astroke, which ended his ability to run therestaurant. Ricky had ended a successful careerin recreational sales to return to the restaurantonce his mother fell ill, but when his fatherbecame disabled Ricky took the reins for good.

How well the Inez Restaurant is doing can bemeasured in large part by the continuedpatronage of its loyal clientele, or perhaps bythe awards Ricky has received in his own rightbut one gets the sense that the most importantvoice Ricky Davis hears is the sound of Sissy’sconstant reminders. Customers have this assur-ance – she trained her son well.

Open 11:30 a.m.-1:30 p.m. for lunchMonday through Friday and 5:30-7:30p.m. Tuesday through Friday for din-ner; closed Saturday, Sunday andMonday evening

Directions: Located on the first floorof the Inez Hotel, 103 S. RailroadAve., Brookhaven; From Interstate 55take exit 40, go into town on BrookwayBoulevard; turn right immediatelyafter crossing railroad tracks; InezHotel is on left side of street. FromMississippi 51, turn east on BrookwayBoulevard, cross railroad tracks; turnright on South Railroad Avenue andInez Hotel is on left side of street.

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The Inez Restaurant

SOUTH MS CUISINE | mccomb’s dinner bell

“I COULD EAT IT ALL!”The Dinner Bel l in McComb keeps the

tables loaded with Southern specialt ies

ITEXT AND PHOTOGRAPY BY TRUDY BERGER

In a voice dripping with richSouthern tones, almost as suc-culent as the food that burdensthe loaded table, Buddy Davisannounces: “Folks, could I haveyour attention? This is sweettea! If you’d like to have some-thing else to drink with yourlunch, please raise your hand.”And that is how every mealbegins at the Dinner Bell inMcComb.

Of course, Buddy has diffi-culty getting the diners’ atten-tion because their eyes andminds are immediately riveted

on the captivating and dizzyingassortment of dishes that sur-round the immense roundtables, one of which seats 20and two of which seat 18.

For 53 years the Dinner Bellhas lured hungry patrons fromsurrounding states; on this day,a quick survey of the packedparking lot revealed that morethan half of the vehicles werefrom neighboring Louisiana.The restaurant is located in atwo-story brick home originallybuilt sometime between 1921and 1923 by John White, broth-

er of former Mississippi Gov.Hugh White and son of leg-endary business pioneer J.J.White. The house featuresmolded ceilings, board and bat-ten ceilings, ceramic tile floor-ing, birch trims and 1,451 win-dowpanes (852 of which are onthe first floor).

The Dinner Bell has had fourprevious owners, but its currentowner, Buddy Davis, had soldthe eggplant featured on itsmenu to two previous ownersfor 30 years in his career withJitney-Jungle grocery store



Open 11 a.m.-2 p.m.Tuesday throughSunday, closed Mondays and the dayafter Labor Day

Open evenings by reservation only, mini-mum group size 36, tours and groups of12 or more, call ahead for availability

Directions: From U.S. 98 (Hattiesburg)just before second traffic light, turnright on Mississsippi 51; take left at sec-ond caution light on 5th Street

(601) 684-4883

when he decided to buy the restaurant forhimself. His son, Andre, was persuaded toreturn from Atlanta, along with his wife,who live in the second floor living quartersand help his father run the restaurant.Watching the two men in action is amazing –neither one stops for a moment as they payconstant attention to what is happening atthe three large round tables. If dishes need tobe washed, Buddy will step back in thekitchen and wash them, quickly returning tothe front, never missing what has happenedout there. The same is true of the wait staffas everything moves with synchronized pre-cision, hot dishes coming out, partiallyempty dishes replaced and no guest everhaving to ask for a thing.

Of course the food is the main interest: “Icould eat it all” is literally what many guestssay when they first enter the room and takein the spread before them. They sit down andas the table starts to move they have theirchoice of signature fried eggplant, sweetpotato casserole, corn on the cob, squash,butterbeans, lima beans, field peas, greens,rice and gravy, chicken and dumplings, potroast, roast chicken, fried chicken, rolls andcorn bread. That does not take into accountthe desserts which might include bananapudding, lemon icebox pie, red velvet cake,German chocolate cake, or pecan pie.

Prices are $11 Tuesday through Thursday,$12 Friday and Saturday and $14 Sunday.

What are the secrets to the Dinner Bell’ssuccess? They are legion, but among them,longevity in the cooks (two of them workedwell into their 80s and trained the currentcooks), consistency in recipes and foodpreparation, longevity in wait staff, excellentservice, and the owner and his son are ever-present, friendly, and attentive to customersand employees alike. That could well be whythe legend of the Dinner Bell continues, itsreputation spreads, and the pages of its guestbook contains entries from throughout theUnited States.

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The Dinner Bell


SOUTH MS CUISINE | biloxi’s taranto’s crawfish & more

SEAFOOD THE OLD BILOXI WAYTaranto’s Crawfish and More is worth the drive to Woolmarket

LTEXT AND PHOTOS BY KRISTEN TWEDT

Looking for one of those off-the-beaten-pathplaces serving seafood done the “Old Biloxi”way? Anthony “Arnie” Taranto, owner of“Taranto’s Crawfish and More” inWoolmarket, offers customers fresh, perfectlyseasoned mudbugs, poboys and seafood dish-es featuring the delectable style and flavorsthat make the Taranto name synonymous withgreat seafood.When crawfish season begins in late Decemberor early January, traffic picks up across theBiloxi River, just a few miles from the inter-section of Lorraine Road and the newHighway 605. Locals know that the Tarantofamily boils ‘em best: with lots of essentialspices and sliced jalapenos.“I started boiling crawfish and making poboysto go in the delicatessen at my dad’s groceryback in the early ‘70’s,” Taranto said. “It’s theBig Ridge Shop-In on the corner of Big RidgeRoad and Gorenflo. My brother still boilsthem there. And another brother opened

Taranto’s Boiler in Ocean Springs, about thesame time I opened here.”Taranto’s Crawfish and More first opened in2003 as a boiler for shrimp and crawfish fortake-out orders only. After Hurricane Katrina,Taranto expanded his kitchen offerings toinclude fried shrimp, fish and other menuitems. He also added a cozy dining hall.Located in a former feed store in the heart ofWoolmarket in Harrison County, the modest,tucked-away restaurant features the kind ofambiance favored among those who appreciatecasual dining with Old Biloxi flair: clean andcasual with touches of humorous seafooddecor.“We want this to be a comfort zone for ourcustomers,” Taranto said. “We treat our cus-tomers like people, not numbers.”Creature comforts include vinyl booths, sim-ple dinette tables and chairs, beer cooler andattentive staff who serve diners with ease anda smile. The typical lunch crowd is anything


Taranto’s Crawfish and More, 12404 JohnLee Road, Biloxi (Just east of CoalvilleUnited Methodist Church in Woolmarketat the intersection of Lorraine and JohnLee Roads); (228) 392-0990.

Open seven days a week, 11 a.m. until 9p.m. Closed some holidays. Call fordates. Dine-in or get orders to go.Oysters on the half shell are offeredseasonally, dine-in only.

Boiler room is open 8 a.m. until 5 p.m.for take-out orders of boiled crawfish orshrimp.

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Taranto’s Crawfish & More

but, from business professionals pickingup a quick take-out order for the officeto denim-clad fishermen and womenfrom the nearby Tchoutacabouffa andBiloxi rivers lounging over cold bever-ages and heaping seafood platters.Laughter and colorful chatter make thisless a restaurant experience and morelike eating at home with friends, thekind of meal and doting you’d expectfrom a big, friendly Italian family withstrong Biloxi roots. These Tarantos hailfrom D’Iberville.“My ancestors came from a little island,Ustica, off the coast of Italy,” saidTaranto. “They were Sicilian and camein at New Orleans. Some ended up inLas Vegas, some of them in Biloxibecause the fishing was so good. Mygrandfather met my grandmother, aYugoslavian, here in Biloxi. We’ve beenhere ever since.”After his first stint in the restaurantbusiness at the Big Ridge Shop-In,Taranto worked around the globe inconstruction, traveling to places likeEgypt and Indonesia. He sampled a vastarray of exotic cuisine and brought themost mouth-watering tastes home toMississippi. Next, he worked in vend-ing, serving the Gulf Coast for 10 years,when he had a heart attack.“I decided I wanted to get back to thekitchen, like the old days at my dad’sgrocery,” recalled Taranto. “That’swhen I opened this place back in 2003.”His world travels ultimately added afresh twist to old favorites, and businessboomed.From boiled crawfish to a robust menuof Coastal favorites, Taranto’s remainstrue to the owner’s desire to share thetried-and-true way of preparing stellarseafood with his own brand of SouthMississippi cooking.“Most of our recipes and cooking stylestick to the Old Biloxi way of servingseafood,” Taranto said. “But, when Iwas traveling, I would find seasoningsthat I knew would work well with thekind of food we like and I brought thatto my restaurant. I think it gives thingslike our boiled crawfish and shrimp andour crab patties a unique taste that ourcustomers seem to really love.”For those unfamiliar with the “Old


Biloxi” style, a good example is the pressedpoboy.“We use good Italian bread from Gambino’sout of Louisiana,” said Taranto. “The bread issliced. We press it, toasting both sides, dress itwith lettuce, tomato, and mayo, and press itdown with the ingredients in it. It’s a closedpoboy, like you’d get on the Point (PointCadet) in Biloxi.” The roast beef features adeep, darker roux than is found in othergravies and is a signature flavor at Taranto’sthat is also found in their homemade gumbo.“Ours is a really good, authentic gumbo madewith Gulf shrimp and crab,” said Taranto. “Allwe handle is the Gulf shrimp here.”With plenty of choices, customers have elevat-ed numerous items to legendary status. Long-time Woolmarket resident Ora Long visited theconvenient location for take-out crawfishshortly after the boiler room opened. She’sbeen a dedicated customer ever since.“We started coming here and continuedbecause Taranto’s has the very best spicycrawfish,” Long said. “Then he opened hisrestaurant and started making the best poboys.He serves good, local Gulf Coast seafood -crawfish, shrimp, crab and oysters.”Taranto takes pride in the fact that the menuboasts several items that remain in highdemand.“Our seafood platter is definitely popular, yes,ma’am!” Taranto said. “The boiled crawfishand shrimp and the fried shrimp and roastbeef poboys are, too.” The masterfully boiledfare includes not only Dungeness and snowcrab, but also the delicious blue crab indige-nous to the brackish bayous and salt waterhere.Son Anthony and daughter-in-law Gindy helprun the thriving seafood spot, along with“seven really great ladies on staff” who treatregulars and new customers alike to a wel-come place at the table. Plans include expand-ing the operation to include a larger facilitywithin two years to better accommodate largecrowds.“We want everyone who visits to feel relaxedand enjoy themselves,” Taranto said. “Wemake our own sweet tea and have root beer bythe bottle, as well as beer, sodas and bottledwater. We would like to grow, serve maybetwo hundred or so in one spot.”And what if customers want dessert?“Nobody ever has room for any, the way wefill the plates here,” laughed Taranto. “But,that has been under discussion. We may beadding those soon. We’ll see.”

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taste of the trust | SOUTH MS CUISINE

Bring your AppetiteSAMPLE THE BEST OF

BROOKHAVEN’S RESTAURANTS

AND CATERERS AT

‘TASTE OF THE TRUST’

MMore than two dozen restaurants, gourmet food retailers and caterers from the Brookhaven areawill offer samples of their specialties during the 2009 “Taste of the Trust” Nov. 5 at the BrookhavenRecreation Department on Mississippi 51 North.

“Taste of the Trust” is sponsored by The Brookhaven Trust, which supports the local arts commu-nity through its four divisions - the arts, drama, music and education.

Guests will enjoy an unlimited supply of appetizers, main dishes, desserts and other special itemsprepared and served by the participating restaurants, caterers and vendors while the band GhostTown will provide musical entertainment.

There will also be a silent auction, with local businesses, artists, photographers and organizationsdonating a wide variety of items to bid on, including a strand of pearls, an original painting of alocal landmark, and a gift certificate for a massage.

Money raised from ‘Taste of the Trust” will support programs throughout the community. Themain goal of the Trust for 2009 has been to spruce up the East Monticello corridor of the downtownarea by helping businesses freshen up the exterior facades of their businesses through matchinggrants. Negotiations are currently in the works for one particular facade that will make a largeimpact on the downtown area.

“Taste of the Trust” will be held from 5:30-9 p.m. Nov. 5.Tickets are $25 each in advance and are available at We Frame It and Perkins Furniture in

Brookhaven. Tickets will be $30 at the door.For more information, call Matt Hall at (601) 327-9224.

IN THE KITCHEN | apple varieties

RED CABBAGE ANDAPPLE BRAISE

2 tablespoons canola oil1 cup chopped Granny Smith apples2 cups apple juice1/2 teaspoon caraway seeds1 small red cabbage, shredded

Heat large skillet; add canola oil.Braise apple for 1 minute, then addapple juice and caraway seeds. Addcabbage; stir slightly to coat. Reduceheat, cover, and cook 25 minutes. Saltto taste. You can add a pat of butterand a squeeze of lemon to harmonizethe flavors further.From “Best of the Best 500 Fast & FabulousFive Star Five Ingredient Recipes,” by Gwen

McKee and Barbara Moseley

APPLE PEANUT CRUMBLE

5 cooking apples, peeled, cored andslices (7-8 cups)2/3 cup light brown sugar1/2 cup all-purpose flour1/2 cup old-fashioned oatmeal1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg1/3 cup margarine2 tablespoons reduced-fat peanutbutterPreheat oven to 350 degrees. Coat a2-quart oblong casserole dish withnonstock cooking spray. Lay the applesin the dish.In a mixing bowl, combine the brownsugar, flour, oatmeal, cinnamon, nut-meg, margarine and peanut butter.Mix until the consistency is crumblike.Sprinkle over the top of the apples.Bake for 30 minutes, or until theapples are tender and the mixture isbubbly. Serve hot.Makes 8 servings, 251 calories perserving. Diabetic Exchanges: 1 fruit,1.5 other carbohydrate, 2 fat.

From “The Holly Clegg Trim & TerrificCookbook,” by Holly Clegg

APPLE UPSIDE DOWNBISCUITS

1/2 stick butter, melted1 cup dark brown sugar2 Granny Smith apples, peeled,cored and sliced into rings1 (10-count) package frozen butter-milk biscuits, thawed3/4 cup pineapple juice3/4 cup granulated sugar

Mix butter and sugar in a 9- by 9-inchdish and pat smoothly. Place applerings on top. Place in a 350 degreeoven for 10 minuts. Remove dish fromoven. Dip thawed biscuits in pineapplejuice; roll in granulated sugar. Placebiscuits on apple rings. Return tooven; bake 25 minutes or until bis-cuits are brown and bubbly. Makes 8-10 servings.

From “Best of the Best Fast & Fabulous

Party Foods and Appetizers,” by Gwen


APPLE PIE COFFEE CAKE

1 (18 1/4-ounce) package yellowcake mix1 (21-ounce) can apple pie filling3 eggs3 tablespoons sugar1 teaspoon cinnamonWhipped topping

Mix cake mix, pie filling and eggs wellby hand until all cake mix lumps aresmooth. Spread in a 9- by -13-inchpan sprayed with Pam. Mix sugar andcinnamon; sprinkle over cake batter.Bake, uncovered, at 350 degrees for30 minutes. Test with a toothpick.Serve warm with whipped topping ontop. Makes 8-12 ervings.

From “Best of the Best Fast & FabulousParty Foods and Appetizers,” by Gwen


Apple-icious

TTake a bite of a crisp, juicy red apple

and you get a taste of autumn.Apples are a very versatile fruit. You

can eat them fresh off the tree, bake themin desserts or cut them up and toss themin salads, dip them in caramel or choco-late, or even pair them with meats likechicken, pork, veal and sausage.

If a recipe calls for a baking apple, useCortland, Rome, Winesap and NorthernSpy varieties. Tart apples include GrannySmith and McIntosh. The sweet varietiesinclude Red Delicious, Golden Deliciousand Gala, and are the kind that are goodeaten raw or in pies. Golden Deliciouskeeps its shape, but Granny Smith appleswill become mushy if they are used alone,so pair them with a sweet variety whenyou’re baking.

To keep apple slices from turningbrown, toss them with a little lemon juice.

If you buy a big bag of apples at thefarmer’s market or produce stand this fall,store them in a cool, dark place or refrig-erate in a plastic bag. They will keeplonger if they don’t touch each other.

Still not sure what to do with apples?Try these creative recipes from a few ofmy favorite cookbooks.

TEXT BY ROBYN JACKSON

autumn’s favorite bounty


baking with pumpkins | IN THE KITCHEN

PUMPKIN SWIRLCHEESECAKE

Liz Kintzel

Crust:2 cups finely crushed ginger snaps1/2 cup pecan, finely chopped6 tablespoons butter or margarine,meltedMix ginger snap crumbs, pecans andbutter. Press onto bottom and 2inches up side of a 9-inch spring-form pan.

Filling:3 8-ounce packages cream cheese,room temperature1 cup sugar, divided1 teaspoon vanilla3 eggs1 cup canned pumpkin1 teaspoon ground cinnamon1/4 teaspoons ground nutmegDash ground cloves

Beat cream cheese, 3/4 cup of sugarand 1 teaspoon vanilla until wellblended. Add 3 eggs, one at a time,mixing after each. Reserve 1 1/2 cupsof the plain batter. Stir remaining1/4 cup sugar, 1 cup pumpkin, 1 tea-spoon ground cinnamon, 1/4 tea-spoon ground nutmeg and dashground cloves into remaining batter.Spoon 1/2 of the pumpkin batter overcrust; top with spoonfuls of 1/2 ofthe reserved plain batter. Repeat lay-ers. Cut through batters with a knifeseveral times for marble effect. Bakeat 325 degrees for 55 minutes or untilcenter is almost set if using a silverspringform pan. Bake at 300 degreesfor 55 minutes if using a dark non-stick springform pan. Allow to coolfor 20 minutes and loosen the side ofpan. Allow to cool 1 1/2 hours beforeremoving the side of the pan.Refrigerate 4 hours or overnight.

LAYERED PUMPKIN PIELibby Sellers

4 ounces cream cheese, softened1/4 cup toasted, chopped pecans(optional)1 tablespoon milk or half-and-half

1 tablespoon sugar1 1/2 cups whipped topping1 graham cracker pie crust1 cup milk or half-and-half1 (16-ounce) can pumpkin2 4-ounce boxes vanilla instantpudding and pie filling1 teaspoon ground cinnamon1/2 teaspoon ground ginger1/2 teaspoon ground cloves

Mix cream cheese, 1 tablespoon milkand sugar in a large bowl with a wirewhisk until smooth. Gently stir inwhipped topping and toasted pecans.Spread on the bottom of pie crust.Pour 1 cup cold milk into a largebowl. Add pumpkin, pudding mixes,cinnamon, ginger and cloves. Beatwith wire whisk until well mixed.Mixture will be thick. Spread overcream cheese layer. Refrigerate 4hours or until set. Garnish withwhipped topping if desired. Storeleftovers in refrigerator.

PUMPKIN CRISPJean Blount

1 can pumpkin1 1/2 ounce can evaporated milk3 eggs1 cup sugar1 box yellow cake mix1 1/2 cup chopped pecans, toasted2 sticks butter

Line 13- by 9-inch pan with waxedpaper. Mix pumpkin, evaporatedmilk, eggs and sugar together. Pouronto waxed paper. Sprinkle cake mixover mixture and pat down smoothly.Spread pecans over cake mix anddrizzle melted butter over nuts. Bakeat 350 degrees for 1 hour. Cool in panfor 20 minutes. Turn onto servingplate and peel off waxed paper. Letcool completely before frosting.

Frosting:8 ounces cream cheese, softened1/4 cup whipped topping1 1/2 cup confectioner’s sugarMix cream cheese, whipped toppingand sugar until smooth. Frost aftermixing thoroughly.

Pumpkins are a colorful part of autumn,whether they show up as carved jack-o’-lanterns at Halloween or as pies on theThanksgiving table. But the big orange gourdsare a lot more versatile than that. Why not trythem in a bread, or even a cheesecake?

Here are a few tasty recipes starring pump-kins from “Recipes & Remembrances,” the newcookbook published by Hattiesburg’s MainStreet Baptist Church. The cookbook includesmore than 900 recipes contributed by membersof the church.

To purchase a copy, contact the church at(601) 296-8000 or visit the Web site, www.main-streetbaptistchurch.org. All proceeds from salesof the $25 book will be used to build a newkitchen and fellowship hall.

PUMPKINSnot just for carving

LIFE IN SOUTH MISSISSIPPI | karen blakeney

SOUTHERN-STYLEsushi?

MTEXT AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY KAREN BLAKENEY

My Southern-fried friends think I’m having amid-life meltdown. Don’t get me wrong. I stillget excited over a good mess of turnip greensserved over a bed of warm cornbread. And aproperly prepared pot of black-eyed peas canmake my eyes mist over. But lately, I have ven-tured beyond dumplings and yam bake andpulled pork barbeque. I am having an affairwith sushi.

I use the word affair because that’s exactlywhat folks insinuate when you reveal an obses-sion of this sort. My brother, Tom, asks me,“Why would you eat that stuff?” His tone sug-gests I have betrayed my solid relationship witha lifetime of Sunday dinners. My friend Lenrosewas no help; she told me she didn’t know any-one over 30 who eats sushi, which is code for“Don’t you think you’re a little too old for suchshenanigans, honey?”

What my disapproving friends fail to recog-nize is that sushi has some amazingly Southernqualities. It is lovingly prepared with the freshest

ingredients. The final product is garnished andpresented with pride, much the same way AuntLena Pearl’s deviled eggs are dusted with papri-ka and displayed on an appropriate platter(every Southern belle knows what I mean).Think of it like this: Sushi is like the best ricecasserole you’ve ever eaten, only rolled into alog and cut into bite-sized pieces that look likeart.

Still not buying it? I know … it’s the raw fishhang-up, which is a bit illogical to me given thenumber of Southern boys who have no qualmseating still-mooing red meat. But here’s the deal- there are a number of wonderfully delectablerolls made with fully cooked fish. In some cases,the fish or the entire roll is fried. Fried! Itdoesn’t get any more Dixie-delicious than that!

So maybe I have tweaked your curiosity. Butyou’re wondering, “How and where do I begin?”For the uninitiated, tempura shrimp sushi is agreat way to get your feet wet. Southern hospi-tality abounds at sushi bars, so don’t be afraid to

ask which rolls are cooked. Mostmenus actually denote cookeditems with a symbol. Soon, youradventurous side will take over.Before long, you will want to trythe Mint Julep Roll at Fatsumo’sin Gulfport, or Chef Scott’s Kissof Fire in Ocean Springs.

True, your friends will look atyou suspiciously, but you won’tcare, because you will have dis-covered a new, forbidden love. Ifyou glance around the crowdedsushi restaurant, a kindred spiritwill make eye contact with youand smile knowingly.

accent october 09 edition

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