About Shampoo

8/7/2019 About Shampoo

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About Shampoo

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How Shampoo Works

Shampoos are formulated with cleansing agents called surfactants (a type of detergent), wh

are small molecules that have "water-attracting heads" and "oil-attracting tails".

When you mix shampoo with water and apply it to your hair, lather is formed. This happens

when the water-attracting molecules in the shampoo are drawn towards the water, and the

attracting molecules are drawn towards the oil and grease on the scalp (as well as other dirt

and skin particles in the hair).

The lathering action creates a push-and-pull effect on the oil and grease, essentially lifting it

from the hair. Shampoo cleanses by stripping sebum (oil secreted from hair follicles) from th

hair. While sebum is a necessary element of the hair because it provides a protective barrieon each individual strand, it also attracts and collects flakes, styling products, and dirt

(especially around the hairline). When shampoo removes sebum, it also removes all of the

unwanted residues from the hair.


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*While shampoos and soaps both contain surfactants, you should avoid using soap to wash

your hair. The surfactants found in soap bind and remove oils too much, making it harmful to

your hair. Shampoo uses a different class of surfactants, which are balanced in order to

remove just the right amount of oil from the hair.

Shampoo is a hair care product used for the removal ofoils, dirt, skin particles,dandruff,

environmental pollutants and other contaminant particles that gradually build up in hair. The

goal is to remove the unwanted build-up without stripping out so much sebum as to make h

unmanageable. Even though most modern shampoos include a conditioning component,

shampooing is frequently followed by the use ofconditioners which ease combing and stylin

History

The word shampoo in English is derived from Hindichmpo ([tpo]),[1] and dates to

1762.[2] The Hindi word referred to head massage, usually with some form of hair oil. [3] Simil

words also occur in other North Indian languages. The word and the service of head massa

were introduced to Britain by a Bengali entrepreneurSake Dean Mahomed. Dean Mahomed

introduced the practice to Basil Cochrane's vapour baths while working there in London in th

early 19th century, and later, together with his Irish wife, opened "Mahomed's Steam and

Vapour Sea Water Medicated Baths" in Brighton, England. His baths were like Turkish bathwhere clients received an Indian treatment of champi (shampooing), meaning therapeutic

massage. He was appointed Shampooing Surgeon to both George IV and William IV.[4]

In the 1860s, the meaning of the word shifted from the sense of massage to that of applying

soap to the hair.[5] Earlier, ordinary soap had been used for washing hair.[6] However, the du

film soap left on the hair made it uncomfortable, irritating, and unhealthy looking.

During the early stages of shampoo, English hair stylistsboiled shaved soap in waterandadded herbs to give the hair shine and fragrance. Kasey Hebert was the first known maker

shampoo, and the origin is currently attributed to him. Commercially made shampoo was

available from the turn of the 20th century.
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A 1914 ad for Canthrox Shampoo inAmerican Magazine showed young women at camp

washing their hair with Canthrox in a lake; magazine ads in 1914 by Rexall featured Harmo

Hair Beautifier and Shampoo.[7]

Originally, soap and shampoo were very similar products; both containing the same natural

derived surfactants, a type ofdetergent. Modern shampoo as it is known today was first

introduced in the 1930s with Drene, the first shampoo with synthetic surfactants.[8]

Commonly used ingredients

Ammonium chloride

Ammonium lauryl sulfate

Glycol

Sodium laureth sulfate is derived from coconut oils and is used to soften water and

create a lather. There was some concern over this particular ingredient circa 1998 ab

this chemical being a carcinogen, but that has been disproved.

Sodium lauryl sulfate

Sodium Lauroamphoacetate is naturally derived from coconut oils and is used as a

cleanser and counter-irritant. This is the ingredient that makes the product tear-free.

Polysorbate 20 is a mild surfactant that is used to solubilize fragrance oils and essenoils; meaning it causes liquid to spread across and penetrate the surface of a solid (i

your hair).

Polysorbate 80 (or Glycol) is used to emulsify (or disperse) oils in water (so the oils

dont float on top like Italian salad dressing).

PEG-150 Distearate is a simple thickener.

Citric Acid is naturally derived from citrus fruits and is used as an antioxidant to

preserve the oils in the product. While it is a severe eye-irritant, the Sodium

Lauroamphoacetate counteracts that property. Citric acid is used to adjust the pH do

to 5.5 (ish). It is a fairly weak acid which makes the adjustment easier. Shampoos

usually are at pH 5.5 because at slightly acidic pH the scales on a hair follicle lay flat

making the hair feel smooth and look shiny. it also has a small amount of preservativ

action. Citric acid as opposed to any other acid will prevent bacterial growth.
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Quaternium-15 is used as a bacterial/fungicidal preservative.

Polyquaternium-10 is a totally different chemical than Quaternium-15. This chemical

acts as the conditioning ingredient, providing moisture and fullness to the hair.

Di-PPG-2 myreth-10 adipate is a water-dispersible emollient that forms clear solution

with surfactant systems

Ingredient and functional claims

In the USA, the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) mandates that shampoo containers

accurately list ingredients. The government further regulates what shampoo manufacturers

and cannot claim as any associated benefit. Shampoo producers often use these regulation

to challenge marketing claims made by competitors, helping to enforce these regulations.

While the claims may be substantiated however, the testing methods and details of such

claims are not as straightforward. For example, many products are purported to protect hair

from damage due to ultraviolet radiation. While the ingredient responsible for this protection

does block UV, it is not often present in a high enough concentration to be effective. The No

American Hair Research Society has a program to certify functional claims based on third

party testing. Shampoos made for treating medical conditions such as dandruffare regulate

as OTC drugs[10] in the US marketplace. In other parts of the world such as the EU, there is

requirement for the anti-dandruff claim to be substantiated, but it is not considered to be a

medical problem.

Vitamins and amino acids

The effectiveness ofvitamins, amino acids and "pro-vitamins" to shampoo is also largely

debatable. Vitamins are substances that are essential forchemical processes that occur wit

the body, chiefly inside living cells and in the bloodstream. They cannot have the same

beneficial effects on dead tissues like grown hair. However, the physical properties of some

vitamins (like vitamin E oil orpanthenol) would have a temporary cosmetic effect on the hair

shaft while not having any bioactivity. The proteins that make up the strand are chains of

amino acids connected in very specific sequences, and are tightly packed in interlocking

arrangements.
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Proteins are unable to penetrate the skin or the hair, and even if they stick to the outside of t

hair they will not help strengthen it. Amino acids cannot penetrate cells through the skin, eith

they may be able to enter the dead strands, but without the complex protein-building

machinery of the living cells they will not actually return damaged hair proteins to their

undamaged state.

Raw Materials

New shampoos are initially created by cosmetic chemists in the laboratory. These scientists

begin by determining what characteristics the shampoo formula will have. They must decide

aesthetic features such as how thick it should be, what color it will be, and what it will smell

like. They also consider performance attributes, such as how well it cleans, what the foam

looks like, and how irritating it will be. Consumer testing often helps determine what these

characteristics should be.

Once the features of the shampoo are identified, a formula is created in the laboratory. Thes

initial batches are made in small beakers using various ingredients. In the personal care

industry, nearly all of the ingredients that can be used are classified by the Cosmetic, Toilet

and Fragrance Association (CTFA) in the governmentally approved collection known as the

International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI). The more important ingredients shampoo formulations are water, detergents, foam boosters, thickeners, conditioning agent

preservatives, modifiers, and special additives.

Water

The primary ingredient in all shampoos is water, typically making up about 70-80% of the

entire formula. Deionized water, which is specially treated to remove various particles and

ions, is used in shampoos. The source of the water can be underground wells, lakes, or rive

Detergents

The next most abundant ingredients in shampoos are the primary detergents. These materi

also known as surfactants, are the cleansing ingredients in shampoos.


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Surfactants are surface active ingredients, meaning they can interact with a surface. The

chemical nature of a surfactant allows it to surround and trap oily materials from surfaces. O

portion of the molecule is oil compatible (soluble) while the other is water soluble. When a

shampoo is applied to hair or textiles, the oil soluble portion aligns with the oily materials wh

the water soluble portion aligns in the water layer. When a number of surfactant molecules

up like this, they form a structure known as a micelle. This micelle has oil trapped in the mid

and can be washed away with water, thus giving the shampoo its cleansing power.

Surfactants are derived from compounds known as fatty acids. Fatty acids are naturally

occurring materials which are found in various plant and animal sources. The materials use

most often to make the surfactants used in shampoos are extracted from coconut oil, palm

kernel oil, and soy bean oil. Some common primary detergents used in shampoos areammonium lauryl sulfate, sodium lauryl sulfate, and sodium lauryl ether sulfate.

Foam boosters

In addition to cleansing surfactants, other types of surfactants are added to shampoos to

improve the foaming characteristics of the formulation. These materials, called alkanolamide

help increase the amount of foam and the size of the bubbles. Like primary detergents, they

are also derived from fatty acids and have both water soluble and oil soluble characteristicsTypical materials include lauramide DEA or cocamide DEA.

Thickeners

To some extent, the alkanolamides that make shampoos foam also make the formulations

thicker. However, other materials are also used to increase the viscosity. For example,

methylcellulose, derived from plant cellulose, is included in shampoos to make them thicker

Sodium chloride (salt) also can be used to increase shampoo thickness.

Conditioning agents

Some materials are also added to shampoos to offset the sometimes harsh effect of

surfactants on hair and fabrics. Typical conditioning agents include polymers, silicones, and


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quaternary agents. Each of these compounds deposit on the surface of the hair and improve

its feel, softness, and combability, while reducing static charge. Shampoos that specifically

feature conditioning as a benefit are called 2-in-1 shampoos because they clean and condit

hair in the same step. Examples of conditioning agents include guar hydroxypropyltrimonium

chloride which is a polymer, dimethicone which is a silicone, and quatemium 80, a quatema

agent.

Preservatives

Since shampoos are made from water and organic compounds, contamination from bacteria

and other microbes is possible. Preservatives are added to prevent such growth. Two of the

most common preservatives used in shampoos are DMDM hydantoin and methylparaben.

Modifiers

Other ingredients are added to shampoo formulas to modify specific characteristics. Opacifi

are added to make the formula opaque and give it a pearly look. Materials known as

sequestering agents are added to offset the dulling effects of hard water. Acids or bases su

as citric acid or sodium hydroxide are added to adjust the pH of a shampoo so the detergen

will provide optimal cleaning.

Special additives

One of the primary factors that influence the purchase of a shampoo is its color and odor. To

modify these characteristics, manufacturers add fragrance oils and governmentally approve

and certified FD&C dyes. Other special additives can also have a similar effect. Natural

materials such as botanical extracts, natural oils, proteins, and vitamins all impart special

qualities and help sell shampoos. Additives such as zinc pyrithione are included to address

problem of dandruff. Other additives are dyes which can color the hair.


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The Manufacturing

Process

After a shampoo formula is developed, it is tested to ensure that its qualities will minimally

change over time. This type of testing, called stability testing, is primarily used to detect

physical changes in such things as color, odor, and thickness. It can

also provide information about other changes, like microbial contamination and performance

differences. This testing is done to ensure that the bottle of shampoo that is on the store

shelves will perform just like the bottle created in the laboratory.

The manufacturing process can be broken down into two steps. First a large batch of shamp

is made, and then the batch is packaged in individual bottles.


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Compounding

1 Large batches of shampoo are made in a designated area of the manufacturing pla

Here workers, known as compounders, follow the formula instructions to make batch

that can be 3,000 gal (11,000 1) or more. Raw materials, which are typically provided

drums as large as 55 gal (200 1) or in 50-lb (23-kg) bags, are delivered to the

compounding area via forklift trucks. They are poured into the batch tank and thoroug

mixed.

2 Depending on the formula, these batches can be heated and cooled as necessary

help the raw materials combine more quickly. Some raw materials such as water or t

primary detergents are pumped and metered directly into the batch tank.

These materials are added simply by pressing a button on computerized controls.

These controls also regulate the mixing speeds and the heating and cooling rates.

Depending on the size and type of shampoo, making a 3,000-gal (11,000-1) batch ca

take anywhere from one to four hours.


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Quality control check

3 After all the ingredients are added to the batch, a sample is taken to the Quality

Control (QC) lab for testing. Physical characteristics are checked to make sure the

batch adheres to the specifications outlined in the formula instructions. The QC group

runs tests such as pH determination, viscosity checks, and appearance and odor

evaluations. They can also check the amount of detergent that is in the formula and

whether there is enough preservative. If the batch is found to be "out of spec,"

adjustments can be made. For instance, acids or bases can be added to adjust the p

or salt can be added to modify the viscosity. Colors can also be adjusted by adding

more dye.

4 After a batch is approved by QC, it is pumped out of the main batch tank into aholding tank where it can be stored until the filling lines are ready. From the holding t

it gets pumped into the filler, which is made up of a carousel of piston filling heads.

Filling

5 At the start of the filling line, empty bottles are put in a large bin called a hopper. He

the bottles are physically manipulated until they are correctly oriented and standing

upright. They are then moved along a conveyor belt to the filling carousel, which holdthe shampoo.

6 The filling carousel is made up of a series of piston filling heads that are calibrated

deliver exactly the correct amount of shampoo into the bottles. As the bottles move

through this section of the filling line, they are filled with shampoo.

7 From here the bottles move to the capping machine. Much like the bin that holds th

empty bottles, the caps are also put in a hopper and then correctly aligned. As the

bottles move by the caps are put on and twisted tight.

8 After the caps are put on, the bottles move to the labeling machines (if necessary).

Depending on the type of labels, they can either be stuck on using adhesives or heat

pressed. Labels are stuck to the bottles as they pass by.

9 From the labeling area, the bottles move to the boxing area, where they are put into

boxes, typically a dozen at a time. These boxes are then stacked onto pallets and


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hauled away in large trucks to distributors. Production lines like this can move at spe

of about 200 bottles a minute or more.

Quality Control

In addition to the initial checks to make sure the product meets specifications, other quality

control checks are made. For example, line inspectors watch the bottles at specific points o

the filling line to make sure everything looks right. They notice things like fill levels, label

placement, and whether the cap is on correctly. The product is also routinely checked to see

there has been any microbial contamination. This is done by taking a bottle off the filling line

and sending it to the QC lab. Here, a small amount of the shampoo product is smeared onto

plate and inoculated with bacteria and other organisms to see if they grow. Additionally, the

packaging is also checked to see if it meets specifications. Things such as bottle thickness,

appearance, and bottle weight are all checked.

The Future

Consumer product corporations will continue to manufacture new types of shampoos. Thes

new formulas will be driven by ever-changing consumer desires and developing chemical

technology. Currently, consumers like multi-functional shampoos, such as 2-in-I shampoos,

which provide cleansing and conditioning in one step, or shampoos that aid in styling. New

shampoos will likely provide improved conditioning, styling, and coloring while cleaning the

hair. Shampoo technology will also improve as new ingredients are developed by raw mate

suppliers. Some important advances are being made in the development of compounds suc

as polymers, silicones, and surfactants. These materials will be less irritating, less expensiv

more environmentally friendly, and also provide greater functionality and performance.

Shampoo manufacturer doubles capacity with cost-effective impeller mixing technoloUK hair products company doubles capacity with cost efficient agitator upgrade

With less finance available, the ability to fund new equipment to increase manufacturing

capacity has caused issues for many UK producers.


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The experience of the UKs largest own brand manufacturer of hair products suggests that

through close co-operation and using the expertise of a leading agitator producer such as

EKATO, cost-effective solutions with short ROI periods are possible. Using an existing vess

and by upgrading the agitator assembly, Herb UK will see a return on its investment in unde

eight months, reduce energy consumption and solve product aeration issues.

Since its foundation in 1990, Herb UK Ltd has manufactured a range of products that are sa

for hairdressers to use than traditional ammonia-based colours. Growing demand meant the

firm needed to increase its capacity cost effectively. The firm was using a two tonne vessel

manufacture shampoos and cream peroxides. Our shampoo was taking three days to mix a

is the most challenging product to produce, says Mark DArcy, Herb UKs operations

manager. Our existing mixing equipment with large blade impellers was also leaving too m

air in the product, causing delays at the bottling stage. The firm experimented with

recirculation pumps but the increased power consumption, product aeration and inconsisten

results led the firm to look at improving the agitator.

Since 1933, EKATO Mixing Technology has been developing mixing technologies for a rang

of industries including food, pharmaceutical, petrochemical and cosmetics. The firm recently

developed the ability to accurately simulate mixing performance using scale models with athree litre model able to reproduce the process of a 4000 litre vessel. The most striking asp

of complex mixing operations is the extent to which conditions can change during the cours

production, says EKATO UKs managing director John Smith. There are large viscosity

ranges from minimum shear to intensive dispersion. Using a range of tools including CFD, w

are able to identify improvements, many of them quick to implement.

According to EKATO, Viscoprop agitators are frequently the answer in demanding process

conditions such as these. They can make it possible to combine previously separate proce

steps in a single vessel, reducing cost, adds Smith. EKATOs EM-based solution offers He

UK a variable speed with the opportunity to also reverse direction, pulling liquids off the floo

of the vessel and distributing them evenly through the batch. Variable speed gives the

operator better control, suggests Smith. And for smaller batch sizes it helps minimise


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splashing.

The results achieved provided an immediate benefit. We have been able to reduce process

time by 50 percent, says factory manager Brian Crouch. We can achieve 100,000 tonnes p

manufacturing year. In addition the new process is removing much of the air, reducing bottli

time and the need for a recirculation pump.

The multi stage Viscoprop impellers helped to solve another specific issue Herb UK had bee

facing. Correcting the pH value is normally done by adding an adjuster at the end of the

process but being thinner and lighter, this tended to float on the liquid surface. Typically, mo

would be added to ensure consistent values through the batch. EKATOs powerful multistag

impellers distribute the adjuster through the entire batch resulting in better consistency from

the top to the bottom of the vessel. Mixing different densities of constituents can be a real

issue, increasing mixing time that is not value added, suggests Smith.

Herb UK is benefitting in other ways that it hadnt expected. The new impellers are much

smaller, says Crouch. This makes the tank more accessible for removing the product and

shorter cleaning process reduces changeover times when we switch from shampoo to

activators.

Herb UK is already talking to EKATO about optimising Tank Two. We achieved what we

wanted to do with Tank One, says DArcy. The customer support is second to none and is

keeping us ahead of the competition who are finally realising that natural products can work

the salon.

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