About Fabrics!!!!!!!

7/30/2019 About Fabrics!!!!!!!

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similarities to wool, people in the region could only imagine that cotton must be produced by

plant-borne sheep.John Mandeville, writing in 1350, stated as fact the now-preposterous belief:"There grew there [India] a wonderful tree which bore tiny lambs on the endes of its branches.

These branches were so pliable that they bent down to allow the lambs to feed when they are

hungrie [sic]." (SeeVegetable Lamb of Tartary.) This aspect is retained in the name for cotton in

many European languages, such as GermanBaumwolle, which translates as "tree wool" (Baummeans "tree"; Wolle means "wool"). By the end of the 16th century, cotton was cultivated

throughout the warmer regions in Asia and the Americas.

CULTIVATION

Successful cultivation of cotton requires a longfrost-free period, plenty of sunshine, and amoderate rainfall, usually from 600 to 1200 mm (24 to 48 inches).Soilsusually need to be fairly

heavy, although the level ofnutrientsdoes not need to be exceptional. In general, these

conditions are met within the seasonally dry tropics and subtropics in the Northern and Southernhemispheres, but a large proportion of the cotton grown today is cultivated in areas with less

rainfall that obtain the water from irrigation. Production of the crop for a given year usually

starts soon after harvesting the preceding autumn. Planting time in spring in the Northern

hemisphere varies from the beginning of February to the beginning of June. The area of theUnited States known as theSouth Plainsis the largest contiguous cotton-growing region in the

world. While dryland (non-irrigated) cotton is successfully grown in this region, consistent yields

are only produced with heavy reliance onirrigationwater drawn from theOgallala Aquifer.Since cotton is somewhat salt and drought tolerant, this makes it an attractive crop for arid and

semiarid regions. Aswater resourcesget tighter around the world, economies that rely on it face

difficulties and conflict, as well as potential environmental problems.[15][16][17][18][19]

For example,

improper cropping and irrigation practices have led todesertificationin areas ofUzbekistan,where cotton is a major export. In the days of theSoviet Union, theAral Seawas tapped for

agricultural irrigation, largely of cotton, and nowsalinationis widespread.[18][19]

Cotton can also be cultivated to have colors other than the yellowish off-white typical of modern

commercial cotton fibers.Naturally colored cottoncan come in red, green, and several shades of

brown.[20]

Harvesting

Most cotton in the United States, Europe, and Australia is harvested mechanically, either by a

cotton picker, a machine that removes the cotton from the boll without damaging the cottonplant, or by a cotton stripper, which strips the entire boll off the plant. Cotton strippers are used

in regions where it is too windy to grow picker varieties of cotton, and usually after applicationof a chemicaldefoliantor the natural defoliation that occurs after a freeze. Cotton is a perennial

crop in the tropics, and without defoliation or freezing, the plant will continue to grow.

Cotton continues to be picked by hand indeveloping countries.[36]
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Favorable travel temperature range: below 25 C (77 F) Optimum travel temperature: 21 C (70 F) Glow temperature: 205 C (401 F) Fire point: 210 C (410 F) Autoignition temperature: 407 C (765 F)

Autoignition temperature(for oily cotton): 120 C (248 F)

Cotton dries out, becomes hard and brittle and loses all elasticity at temperatures above 25C(77F). Extended exposure to light causes similar problems.

A temperature range of 25 C (77 F) to 35 C (95 F) is the optimal range for molddevelopment. At temperatures below 0 C (32 F), rotting of wet cotton stops. Damaged cotton is

sometimes stored at these temperatures to prevent further deterioration.[53]

JUTE

Jute needs a plainalluvialsoil and standing water. The suitable climate for growing jute (warmand wet) is offered by themonsoonclimate, during the monsoon season. Temperatures from

20C to 40C and relative humidity of 70%80% are favourable for successful cultivation. Juterequires 58 cm of rainfall weekly, and more during the sowing period.
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[edit] White jute (Corchorus capsularis)

Historical documents (includingAin-e-AkbaribyAbul Fazalin 1590) state that the poor villagersofIndiaused to wear clothes made of jute. Simple handlooms and hand spinning wheels were

used by the weavers, who used to spin cotton yarns as well. History also states that Indians,

especiallyBengalis, used ropes and twines made of white jute from ancient times for householdand other uses.

[edit] Tossa jute (Corchorus olitorius)

Tossa jute (Corchorus olitorius) is a variety thought to be native toIndia, and is also the world's

top producer. It is grown for both fibre and culinary purposes. It is used as an herb in Middle

Eastern and African countries, where the leaves are used as an ingredient in a mucilaginouspotherbcalled "molokhiya" ( , of uncertain etymology). It is very popular in someArab

countries such asEgypt,Jordan, andSyriaas a soup-based dish, sometimes with meat over rice

orlentils. TheBook of Job, in the King James translation of theHebrew Biblementions this

vegetable potherb as "Jew's mallow".[1]

It is high inprotein,vitamin C,beta-carotene,calcium,andiron.

On the other hand, it is used mainly for its fibre inIndia, in other countries inSoutheast Asia,

and theSouth Pacific. Tossa jute fibre is softer, silkier, and stronger than white jute. This variety

astonishingly shows good sustainability in the climate of theGanges Delta. Along with whitejute, tossa jute has also been cultivated in the soil ofBengalwhere it is known aspaatfrom the

start of the 19th century. Currently, the Bengal region (West BengalinIndia, andBangladesh) is

the largest global producer of the tossa jute variety.

HISTORY

For centuries, jute has been an integral part of theculture of Bengal, in the entire southwest ofBangladesh and some portions ofWest Bengal. During the British Raj in the 19th and early 20th

centuries, much of the raw jute fibre of Bengal was carried off to theUnited Kingdom, where it

was then processed in mills concentrated inDundee. Initially, due to its texture, it could only be

processed by hand until it was discovered in that city that by treating it withwhale oil, it could betreated by machine[2]The industry boomed ("jute weaver" was a recognised trade occupation in

the 1901 UK census), but this trade had largely ceased by about 1970 due to the appearance ofsynthetic fibres.

Margaret Donnelly, a jute mill landowner in Dundee in the 1800s, set up the first jute mills in

Bengal. In the 1950s and 1960s, whennylonandpolythenewere rarely used, one of the primarysources of foreign exchange earnings for the erstwhileUnited Pakistanwas the export of jute

products, based on jute grown in thenEast Bengal, nowBangladesh. Jute has been called the

"Golden Fibre of Bangladesh." However, as the use of polythene and other synthetic materials as
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a substitute for jute increasingly captured the market, the jute industry in general experienced a

decline.

During some years in the 1980s, farmers in Bangladesh burnt their jute crops when an adequate

price could not be obtained. Many jute exporters diversified away from jute to other

commodities. Jute-related organisations and government bodies were also forced to close,change or downsize. The long decline in demand forced the largest jute mill in the world

(Adamjee Jute Mills) to close inBangladesh. Bangladesh's second largest mill,Latif BawanyJute Mills, formerly owned by businessman Yahya Bawany, was nationalized by the

government. Farmers in Bangladesh have not completely ceased growing jute, however, mainly

due to demand in the internal market. Between 20042010, the jute market recovered and theprice of raw jute increased more than 500%[citation needed].

Jute has entered many diverse sectors of industry, where natural fibres are gradually becoming

better substitutes. Among these industries arepaper,celluloidproducts (films),non-woventextiles,composites,(pseudo-wood), andgeotextiles. In 2006, theGeneral Assemblyof the

United Nationsproclaimed 2009 to be theInternational Year of Natural Fibres, so as to raise theprofile of jute and other natural fibres

Production

Jute is a rain-fed crop with little need for fertilizer or pesticides, in contrast tocotton's heavy

requirements. Production is concentrated inIndiaand some inBangladesh, mainly Bengal. The jute fibrecomes from the stem and ribbon (outer skin) of the jute plant. The fibres are first extracted byretting.

The retting process consists of bundling jute stems together and immersing them in slow running water.

There are two types of retting: stem and ribbon. After the retting process, stripping begins; women and

children usually do this job. In the stripping process, non-fibrous matter is scraped off, then the workers

dig in and grab the fibres from within the jute stem.[3]

India,Pakistan, andChinaare the large buyers of

local jute while theUnited Kingdom,Spain,Cte d'Ivoire,GermanyandBrazilalso import raw jute from

Bangladesh. India is the world's largest jute growing country.
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FEATURES

Jute fibre is 100% bio-degradable and recyclable and thus environmentally friendly. Jute has low pesticide and fertilizer needs. It is a natural fibre with golden and silky shine and hence called The Golden Fibre.

It is the cheapest vegetable fibre procured from the bast or skin of the plant's stem. It is the second most important vegetable fibre after cotton, in terms of usage, global

consumption, production, and availability.

It has high tensile strength, lowextensibility, and ensures betterbreathabilityof fabrics.Therefore, jute is very suitable in agricultural commodity bulk packaging.

It helps to make best quality industrial yarn, fabric, net, and sacks. It is one of the mostversatile natural fibres that has been used in raw materials for packaging, textiles, non-

textile, construction, and agricultural sectors. Bulking ofyarnresults in a reduced

breaking tenacity and an increased breaking extensibility when blended as a ternary

blend.

The best source of jute in the world is the Bengal Delta Plain in the Ganges Delta, mostof which is occupied by Bangladesh.

Advantages of jute include good insulating andantistaticproperties, as well as havinglowthermal conductivityand a moderatemoisture regain. Other advantages of juteincludeacoustic insulatingproperties and manufacture with noskin irritations.

Jute has the ability to be blended with other fibres, both synthetic and natural, and acceptscellulosicdyeclasses such asnatural,basic,vat,sulfur,reactive, andpigment dyes. Asthe demand for natural comfort fibres increases, the demand for jute and other natural

fibres that can be blended with cotton will increase. To meet this demand, some

manufactures in the natural fibre industry plan to modernize processing with theRieter's

Elitexsystem. The resulting jute/cotton yarns will produce fabrics with a reduced cost ofwet processing treatments. Jute can also be blended with wool. By treating jute with

caustic soda, crimp, softness, pliability, and appearance is improved, aiding in its ability

to be spun with wool. Liquidammoniahas a similar effect on jute, as well as the addedcharacteristic of improving flame resistance when treated withflameproofingagents.

Some noted disadvantages include poor drapability and crease resistance,brittleness,fibre shedding, and yellowing in sunlight. However, preparation of fabrics withcastor oil

lubricantsresult in less yellowing and less fabric weight loss, as well as increased dyeingbrilliance. Jute has a decreased strength when wet, and also becomes subject to microbial

attack in humid climates. Jute can be processed with anenzymein order to reduce some

of its brittleness and stiffness. Once treated with an enzyme, jute shows an affinity toreadily accept natural dyes, which can be made frommarigoldflower extract. In one

attempt to dye jute fabric with this extract, bleached fabric wasmordantedwithferrous

sulphate, increasing the fabric's dye uptake value. Jute also responds well toreactive

dyeing. This process is used for bright and fast coloured value-added diversified productsmade from jute.
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i/Extensibility


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NYLON

Nylon is a generic designation for a family ofsynthetic polymersknown generically aspolyamides, first

produced on February 28, 1935, by Wallace Carothers at DuPont's research facility at the DuPont

Experimental Station. Nylon is one of the most commonly used polymers

Nylon is athermoplastic, silky material, first used commercially in a nylon-bristledtoothbrush(1938), followed more famously by women'sstockings("nylons"; 1940). Nylon is made of

repeating unitslinked byamidebondsand is frequently referred to aspolyamide(PA). Nylon

was the firstcommerciallysuccessful synthetic polymer. There are two common ways of making

nylon for fiber applications. In one approach, molecules with an acid (-COOH) group on eachend are reacted with molecules containing amine (-NH2) groups on each end. The resulting nylon

is named on the basis of the number of carbon atoms separating the two acid groups and the two

amines. These are formed intomonomersof intermediatemolecular weight, which are then

reacted to form longpolymerchains.

Nylon was intended to be a synthetic replacement forsilkand substituted for it in many different

products after silk became scarce duringWorld War II. It replaced silk in military applicationssuch asparachutesandflak vests, and was used in many types of vehicle tires.

Nylon fibers are used in many applications, including clothesfabrics, bridal veils, package paper,

carpets, musical strings, pipes, andropeetc.

Nylon is used formechanicalparts such asmachine screws,gearsand other low- to medium-

stress components previously cast in metal. Engineering-grade nylon is processed byextrusion,

casting, andinjection molding. Solid nylon is used in hair combs. Type 6,6 Nylon 101 is themost common commercial grade of nylon, and Nylon 6 is the most common commercial grade

of molded nylon. For use in tools such as thespudger, a nylon is available in glass-filled variants

which increase structural and impact strength and rigidity, and molybdenum sulfide-filled

variants which increaselubricity.

Aramidsare another type of polyamide with quite different chain structures which include

aromaticgroups in the main chain. Such polymers make excellentballisticfibers

The first approach: combining molecules with an acid (COOH) group on each end are reacted

with two chemicals that contain amine (NH2) groups on each end. This process createsnylon 6,6,

made of hexamethylene diamine with six carbon atoms and adipic acid.

The second approach: a compound has an acid at one end and an amine at the other and ispolymerized to form a chain with repeating units of (-NH-[CH2]n-CO-)x. In other words, nylon 6

is made from a single six-carbon substance calledcaprolactam. In this equation, if n = 5, then

nylon 6is the assigned name (may also be referred to as polymer).

The characteristic features of nylon 6,6 include:
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Pleats and creases can be heat-set at higher temperatures More compact molecular structure Better weathering properties; better sunlight resistance Softer "Hand" Higher melting point (256 C/492.8 F)

Superior colorfastness Excellent abrasion resistance

On the other hand, nylon 6 is easy to dye, more readily fades; it has a higher impact resistance, a

more rapid moisture absorption, greater elasticity and elastic recovery.

[edit] Characteristics

Variation of luster: nylon has the ability to be very lustrous, semilustrous or dull. Durability: its high tenacity fibers are used for seatbelts, tire cords, ballistic cloth and

other uses.

High elongation Excellent abrasion resistance Highly resilient (nylon fabrics are heat-set) Paved the way for easy-care garments High resistance to insects, fungi, animals, as well as molds, mildew, rot and many

chemicals

Used in carpets and nylon stockings Melts instead of burning Used in many military applications Goodspecific strength Transparent to infrared light (12dB)[3]
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