Aarhus School of Architecture / Design School Kolding ... · Digital inkjet printing on fabric is...

12
Aarhus School of Architecture // Design School Kolding // Royal Danish Academy Digital Tools and Textile Printing Riisberg, Vibeke Publication date: 2007 Document Version Publisher's PDF, also known as Version of record Link to publication Citation for pulished version (APA): Riisberg, V. (2007). Digital Tools and Textile Printing. Paper presented at Dressing Rooms, Oslo, Norway. General rights Copyright and moral rights for the publications made accessible in the public portal are retained by the authors and/or other copyright owners and it is a condition of accessing publications that users recognise and abide by the legal requirements associated with these rights. • Users may download and print one copy of any publication from the public portal for the purpose of private study or research. • You may not further distribute the material or use it for any profit-making activity or commercial gain • You may freely distribute the URL identifying the publication in the public portal ? Take down policy If you believe that this document breaches copyright please contact us providing details, and we will remove access to the work immediately and investigate your claim. Download date: 03. Mar. 2021

Transcript of Aarhus School of Architecture / Design School Kolding ... · Digital inkjet printing on fabric is...

Page 1: Aarhus School of Architecture / Design School Kolding ... · Digital inkjet printing on fabric is the latest invention in the textile industry and a major technological shift, because

Aarhus School of Architecture // Design School Kolding // Royal Danish Academy

Digital Tools and Textile Printing

Riisberg, Vibeke

Publication date:2007

Document VersionPublisher's PDF, also known as Version of record

Link to publication

Citation for pulished version (APA):Riisberg, V. (2007). Digital Tools and Textile Printing. Paper presented at Dressing Rooms, Oslo, Norway.

General rightsCopyright and moral rights for the publications made accessible in the public portal are retained by the authors and/or other copyright ownersand it is a condition of accessing publications that users recognise and abide by the legal requirements associated with these rights.

• Users may download and print one copy of any publication from the public portal for the purpose of private study or research. • You may not further distribute the material or use it for any profit-making activity or commercial gain • You may freely distribute the URL identifying the publication in the public portal ?

Take down policyIf you believe that this document breaches copyright please contact us providing details, and we will remove access to the work immediatelyand investigate your claim.

Download date: 03. Mar. 2021

Page 2: Aarhus School of Architecture / Design School Kolding ... · Digital inkjet printing on fabric is the latest invention in the textile industry and a major technological shift, because

1

DRESSINGROOMS:CURRENTPERSPECTIVESONFASHIONANDTEXTILESConference14th–16thMay2007,OsloUniversityCollege,NorwayVibekeRiisberg,TextileDesigner,Ph.d,AssociateProfessorDesignskolenKolding,Ågade10,6000Kolding,Denmark+4575301100Dir:+4576355519Mail:[email protected]éDigitalinkjetprintingonfabricisthelatestinventioninthetextileindustryandamajortechnologicalshift,becauseitdoesnotusetemplates.Atpresentinkjetisslowcomparedtoconventionalprinting,butithasotheradvantagese.ghugeflexibility.Digitalprintingopensarangeofnewpossibilitiesinmanufacturingandaestheticexpressionstoindustry,fashionandtextiledesigners.Thispapershortlydescribes,thehistoricalandtechnicaldevelopmentoftextileprinting,andoutlinestheprincipledifferenciesbetweenanalogueanddigitaltechnology.Examplesofproductionandexperimentaldesignprojectsarepresentedanddiscussed.FinallyIarguethatdigitalmediaandinkjetcouldbeusedtofurthermoresustainabletextileproducts.IntroductionPrintingisthemostprevalentmethodofdecoratingfabrics,becauseitisfast,cheapandoffersagreatvarietyofexpressions.Withtheinventionofmechanizedrollerprintingin1783,printedfabricsbecamesomeofthefirstmassproducedgoods.Andduringthe19thcenturytheyplayedanimportanteconomicroleandbecameapivotalpointinthediscourseofornamentintheUK.Printedfabricsalsointroducedfashiontothelowerclasses,andaffectedthereversaltomodernindustrializedconsumersocieties(Forty1986).Machineprintingincreasedspeedandreducedpriceconciderably,butitalsolimitedthesizeofmotifs,numberofcoloursandrepeatpatternsbecamethedominantformofdecoration.Theseindustrialstandardsinterveneddeeplyinthedesignersartisticfreedomandprovokedastrongreaction.MostwellknownarethewritingsofWilliamMorris(1834‐96),whoobjectedtothegenerallowqualityoffabrics,theirpoorcolourfastness,badtechnicalexecutionandthereductionofaestheticpossibilitiesforthedesigner.Furthermorehewasconcernedaboutthesevereconsequencesthetextileindustryhadonsocietyandtheenvironment(MacCarthy1994).Todaythetextileandgarmentindustryisoneofthelargestintheworld,andfashionshiftsmorerapidlythanever.Thisincreasesconsumptionofresourcesandenvironmentalproblems.Chinaandothercountriesareadoptingwestern

Page 3: Aarhus School of Architecture / Design School Kolding ... · Digital inkjet printing on fabric is the latest invention in the textile industry and a major technological shift, because

2

consumerpatterns,thereforeitisimportanttopromotemoresustainableproductionandlookforalternativewaysofconsumption.Inthispaperitisnotmyintentiontoargueforanewutopiaortheabolitionoffashion,butitismyhumbleambitiontopointoutsomeofthepossiblitiesthatdigitalmediaprovideinsolvingsomeoftheproblems.CAD/CAMwasdevelopedinthe1960sinconjunctionwithanalogueprinting(Bunce1999).EversincesoftwareandhardwarehaveimprovedandtodayCAD/CAMarestandardtools.Duringthelastfewyearsdigitalprintingonfabricshasbeenimplemented,butonly1%ofthetotalglobalquantityofprintedtextileswasproducedbythismethodin2004(Mheidle2004).Therefore,analogueprintingisinnowayobsolete,andhenceadiscussionofinkjettechnologymustbeseeninrelationtohigh‐speedconventionalproduction.Analogueprinting Allanalogueprintingisbasedonareproductionprocess,wheretemplates‘carry’themotifandcolour,whicharetransferredtothefabricbydirectcontact.Themakingoftemplatesisaconsiderableinvestmentinmassproduction.Thereforethetechnologicaldevelopmenthasbeendrivenbyasearchformorerationalandeconomicwaysofmanufacturingthem.Anotheraspecthasbeenthedemandforhigherproductionspeed,butthisfactorhasinthelastfewdecadesbeenpushedinthebackgroundinlinewiththemarketsrequestforlesserquantitiesofthesamedesign.Neverthelessspeedisstillarelevantparameterforcomparinganalogueanddigitalprinting,becausethepriceoffabricationdropsremarkableafterthecostofthetemplateshasbeenpaidfor.Duringthesecondhalfofthe20thcenturythetextileandgarmentindustryhasdevelopedintoacomplexglobalbuisnesswithasupplychainconsistingofmanysplitprocesses.Thesystemdemandsholdingofstocksatmanylevels,andthisisthemostriskyandcostlyinthewholeproductionchain(Ross2001).Globalmassproductionmakesitimpossibletocomplementstockswithintheshortintervalofafashionseason.Thereforemostofthegarmentindustrytakesprecautionbymanufacturingplentifulofsupplies.Thisleadstooverproduction,andaconsiderablepartofthegoodsaresoldatreducedpricebytheendoftheseason.Oneaspect,whichcontributestotheuncertaincalculationsofgoods,isthedifficultytopredict,whattheconsumerswant.Asweallknowstereotypetargetgroups,whichfollowaclearlydefinedfashion,donotexistanylonger.Insteadtheconsumerseeksindividualproducts,whichrequiresaflexibleproductionchainandapluralisticfashionsystem.Forthesereasonsconventionalmassproductionhasbecomelessprofitableandnewstrategies,likequickresoponseandmasscustomization,adoptedbypartofthetrade.1Itis

1 Professor Rajan Suri:" Quick Response Manufacturing (QRM) is a companywide strategy to cut lead times in all phases of manufacturing and office operations” (d.9.2.07) http://www.engr.wisc.edu/centers/cqrm/whatisqrm.htm Frank Piller: ”Mass customization refers to a customer co-design process of products and services which meet the needs of each individual customer with regard to certain product features . All operations are performed within a fixed solution space, characterized by stable but still flexible and

Page 4: Aarhus School of Architecture / Design School Kolding ... · Digital inkjet printing on fabric is the latest invention in the textile industry and a major technological shift, because

3

onthisbackgroundthedevelopmentandbiginvestmentsininkjettechnologyshouldbeseen.PrincipledifferenciesbetweenanalogueanddigitalprintingConventionalprintingmachinesrun450‐9000meterspr.hourinfullwidth,whiledigitalprintersatpresentproducebetween10‐300squaremeterspr.hour.Analogueprintingusesonetemplateforeachcolour[spotcolour],andintheprocesofseparatingthecolours,halftonescanbeobtainedbyrasterpoints.Productionpricepr.meterincreasewitheachtemplate,andforthisreasondesignsinmanycoloursrequireaformofstylization.Thisisnotneededindigitalprinting,wherethepricepr.meteristhesamenomatterhowmanycolours.Herethemotifistransfereddirectlyfromasoftwaretothetheprintheads,whichhavenocontacttothesurfaceofthefabric.Anelectricimpulseejectstheinkthroughthemicroscopicnozzelsoftheprinthead,andtinydotsofdifferentcoloursmixonthewhitefabricgeneratingmillonsofshades.Thismethodiscalledprocesscolouranddifferentprintersrunwith4,6,7,8or12standardcolours.Morecoloursextendthegamut,butinspiteofmillionsofshades,therearenuanceswhichcannotbereproduced.Spotcolourprintinghasalargergamut,becauseeachcolourismixedinregardtotheoriginaldesignfromawiderangeofdyes.Digitalprintersrequirespecialinks,whicharemoreexpensiveandexistonlyinalimitedrange.Analogueanddigitalprintingcanbecarriedoutwithpigmentsordifferentgroupsofwaterbaseddyestuffforcellulose‐animalandsyntheticfibers.Afterprintingwaterbaseddyesmustbefixedbysteamordryheat,washedanddryed.Pigmentsonlyneedadryheatprocess,andcanbeprintedonalldifferentfibers.Hencetheyarethemosteconomicandwidelyusedinanalogueprinting.Indigitalprintingpigmentsstillposeproblems,becausetheyeasilyblocktheprintheads.Colourmanagementbetweendigitalsampleprintingandanaloguemassproductionalsogenerateproblems,butnewsoftwaresolutionslikeSTORKUSEEseemspromising.Asofnowinkjetprintingisthemostcleantechnology,becausetheinksareutilizedtoahighdegree,andtherebyminimizingwaterandenergyconsumptionintheaftertreatment.Digitalprinterscanswitchdesignonthefly‐withoutstopingthemachine.Thisisamajoradvantagecomparedtoconventionalprinting,whereeachnewdesignrequiresthemakingoftemplates,tuningofthemachine,adjustmentofthepattern,sampleprintingandcleaningbeforeeachnewdesignandcolourway.Theseprocessesarecostly,timeconsumingandimpacttheenvironmentthroughaconsiderableamountofdyestuffgeneratedaswaste(Cahill1998).Themakingoftemplatesisalsoaburdentotheenvironmentsinceagreatnumberarediscartedaftersampling,becausethepatterndidnotpleasethecustomerstaste.In1997thenumberofdiscarted responsive processes. As a result, the costs associated with customization allow for a price level that does not imply a switch in an upper market segment. (d.9.2.07) http://www.mass-customization.de/glossary.htm#pers

Page 5: Aarhus School of Architecture / Design School Kolding ... · Digital inkjet printing on fabric is the latest invention in the textile industry and a major technological shift, because

4

templateswasashighas42%.2Butdigitalsampleprintingmusthavebroughtdownthenumber.AshorthistoryofinkjetTheearliestexperimentswithelectrostaticinkdropsonpaperwasdonebyNolletin1749,andin1876thefirstinkjetdevicewasconnectedtothetelegraph(Jürgens1999).Duringthe1960sand‐70sinkjetprintersweredevelopedfirstfortypewritersandlatercomputers(Bunce1999).Atthesametimeexperimentsweretakenupbythetextileindustry,andin1975theamericancompanyMillikenstartedmassproductionofcarpetswithinkjettechnology(Dawson1992).JapaneseSeirenCo.Ltd.establishedfabricproductionwithinkjetin1989aspartoftheirSupplyChainManagementconcept.3In1991STORKmarketedthefirstinkjetprinterforsamplingfabrics,andCanon/Kanebopresentedaproductionprinterin1995.Thismachineneversold,becauseofitsprice[700.000USD],highoperatingcostsandunreliabilityinproduction(Cahill1998).Thebreakthroughforinkjetprinterscamein1999attheITMAmachinefairinParis.Sincethentechnologyhasconstantlyimproved,andtheuseofinkjethasincreasedworldwide.InEuropeItalianManteroandSwissJacobSchlaepferhavebeenpioneersindigitalprintingofhigh‐endfashionfabrics.Manterostartedin1999andin200510%oftheproductionwasdonebydigitalprinting(Mantero2005).Since2001JacobSchlaepferhasutilizedinkjetonpaper‐followedbyadryheatprocesstransferingthedecorationtopolyesterfabrics.AlsodesignerslikeIsseyMiyake,JeanPaulGaultier,PiaMyrvoldandJ.R.Campbellhaveembracedthetechnologyatanearlystage–allstartinginthelate‐90s,followedbyPrada,JonathanSaunders,HusseinChalayanogAntonioCuitto.Alsoforthemiddlemarketinkjettechnologyhasprovenprofitable–somegoodexamplesaretheamericanprintserviceBetaManagement[BMT]andJapaneseSeirenViscotec.BetaManagementTeam[BMT]LikeJacobSchlaepferBMTmakeuseofinkjetandtransferprintingonpolyesterfabrics.Thecompanyoffersengineeredmotifsfittedthecuttingorrepeatpatternsonpiecegoods.BMThavedeveloppedabuisnessconcept,whichtheycallZeroInventoryProduction[ZIP].WithZIPthereisnoinvestmentininventories,becausegoodsareprintedonlyondemand(BMT).Theclientsignsacontractforaminimumperiodeofsixmonths,andduringthisperiodheiscommitedtobuy”X”amountoffabricsat8.50$pr.yard.Iftheclientisbuyingmorethan10.000yardspr.month,BMToffertoinstallaninkjetprintsystemonleasingtermsathissite.BMTprovidetrainingofstaff,deliversoftware,

2 Bert van Agen from STORK lecture at the FESPA conference Manchester 28.11.97, source Textile Engineer Joy Boutrup – a participant. 3 ”SCM has three primary goals: Reduce inventory, increase the transaction speed by exchanging data in real-time, and increase sales by implementing customer requirements more efficiently” (POET).

Page 6: Aarhus School of Architecture / Design School Kolding ... · Digital inkjet printing on fabric is the latest invention in the textile industry and a major technological shift, because

5

materialsandmaintaintheprintsystem.Inthiswaythepricepr.yardisreducedto6.50$(Ross2001).

InkjetprintingontransferpaperatBMTHeattransferofmotiftofabricOneofBMT’sclientsisCoolware‐amanufacturerofswimwear,sarongs,shirtsandpants.ThedesignteamatCoolwarecreateallpatternsandmotifsingraphiccomputerprogramslikePhotoshop,IllustratororFreehand.ThedigitalfilesaresenttoaserverontheInternet,whereBMTcandownloadandpreparethedocumentsforproduction.FirstsamplesareprintedandsentbyposttoCoolwareforapproval.Tokeeptheshortestpossibleproductiontimeofoneweek‐theordersmustbeonBMT’sservermondaymorning,approvedbytuesday,fabricsprintedandsentonwensday.Coolwarestarttocutandsewthursdayandnewgoodsarriveintheshopseachmonday.Coolwareisnotobligatedtoaspecificminimumofeachdesign,butcanorderfromafewtoseveralhundredyardsinoneormorecolourways.80%ofthethefabricsaremanufacturedasdigitalprint,whilethelast20%areprintedonconventionalrotarymachines.Thereorganizationtodigitalproductionhasgiventhecompanyextraworkcapital‐previouslyboundininventoriesandaproductiontimeof2‐3months.Thecombinationofinjectedcapitalandanincreaseinsaleshaveresultedina25%augmentationinCoolware’sturnover(Ross2001).Thiscasemakesitclearthatdigitalprintingcanbeareliableproductiontechnologyandalsocost‐effective.ButneitherBMTnorCoolwareseemtobeinterestedin,whatinkjetcanofferinregardtonewaestheticexpressions‐however,thisisinvestigatedbymanydesigners.NewaestheticpossibilitiesSincetherearenotemplatestobemade,designerscan,ataresonableprice,testideasandmanufactureshortruns,eitherataprintserviceorbyinvestinginadigitalprinter.Quiteafewdesignschoolsnowteachdigitalprinting,andinthefollowingafewexamplesfromDesignskolenKoldingarepresented.Theschoolbegantoimplementdigitalprintingin2001,andsincethenthestudentshaveexperimentedwithnewvisualexpressionsinsamples,garmentsandinteriorfabrics.Alsodifferentwaysofdesignthinkinghastakenforme.g.thecombinationofdigitalprintanduserorienteddesign,ideasforcustomization,collaborativeprojects,Internetconceptsandthemergingofhandanddigitalprinting.

Page 7: Aarhus School of Architecture / Design School Kolding ... · Digital inkjet printing on fabric is the latest invention in the textile industry and a major technological shift, because

6

Thecollaborativeproject‐InterruptionontheEdge‐tookplacein2003,andinvolvedthreefashionandthreetextilestudentsin4thyear.Theaimwastomergecuttingtosizewiththree‐dimensionalformanddecorationinthreedifferentgarments.Thegroupchosethetheme‘distortion’,andstartedoutbygatheringinspirationfromtextsandpicturesofmirroringinwater,reflectionsfromglassfacadesandothershinysurfaces.Inthefollowingprocessofsketchingthegroupsplitintwofocusingrespectivelyoncuttinganddecoration.Eachgroupagreedonarotationprocedure,wheredigitalfileswereexchanged.Inthiswaytheybrokeuptheindividualsketchinginordertocreatenewandunexpectedexpressions,andatthesametimeoverridingthepersonal‘ownership’toadesign.Thewholegroupmetregularlyandattheendcollectivelydecidedwhichdesignsshouldbecarriedout.

InterruptionontheEdge.Cuttingtosizeanddecoration

InterruptionontheEdge.Dress‐digitalprintonsilksatinInallthreegarmentsbothdecorationandcutisasymmetrical.Thisfurthersadynamicexpression,emphasizesthesensationofmovementandchallengestheeyetowanderandexplore.Theshinnysilksatin,compositionofcolourandamorphousformssupportthemirroranddistorsiontheme.Thedecorationissubordinatedtheproportionsofthebody,andappearsrestrainedinmanytransparentlayersofgreytones.Thisgathersthecompositiontoacoherentwhole–yetbringingaboutafeelingofdepth.Intheexample,shownhere,adiscreetetensioniscreatedbyaddingfinelinesingreenandred.Thedecoration

Page 8: Aarhus School of Architecture / Design School Kolding ... · Digital inkjet printing on fabric is the latest invention in the textile industry and a major technological shift, because

7

canbeseenasacontinuationofthetextiletraditionformoiréeffectinwovenfabrics‐thesocalled'wateredsilks'–andtheirimitationinprint.Butotherassociationscometominde.g.theanamorphicmotifsofpaintingsfromtherenaissanceandcomtemporaryblureffectofcomputergraphic.Inhisgraduationproject’Sparepartsforfuturehumans’KambizKavkanicommentstheincreasingpossibilitiesofmedicalsciencetore‐designandreplacepartsofthehumanbody.Heisfascinatedbytherelationshipbetweentheartificialandthenatural,andquestionsiftheidealsofbeautywillbetransformed,whenwerebuildthebody.AsafirststepKavkanitookaseriesofdigitalphotographsofhisownnakedbody.NexthetransferedtheimagestothecomputerandmanipulatedtheminPhotoshoptorhythmicalcompositionsofwavystripesandsquares.

KambizKavkani,DesignskolenKoldinggraduationshow2004Herebythenaturalisticmotifswerechangedintoabstractornamentalforms‐butacloselookrevealsthephotographicdetailsofskinandhair.Inthisprocessofrecognitionthedecorationappearssurreal,andourperceptionofornament,bodyandfashionischallenged.InsomeofthegarmentsKambizKavkaniaddedahandprintedreliefeffect.Indoingso,hemergesdigital[machine]andhandprinting,andthusmovesthepreviousboundariesofartsandcraftsaslimitedtotheworkofhand.IdentityPlayisthetitleofBirgitteLevinHansen’sgraduateprojectfrom2004.IncollaborationwithgraphicdesignerKarenKyedshedesignedaninteractivewebsitepresentingavirtualblousecollection.Atthesitecustomerscanparticipatebycombiningdecorativeelementsandansweringaquestionnarie,beforethefinalproductismanufactured.IdentityPlayalsoofferschatrooms,wheretheuserscanmeet,exchangeideasandexploreotherwomenslifestyleuniverse.Thecollectionhasthreedifferentthemes,andelementsfromeachofthemcanbecombinedtoablouseintwolayers.Onelayerishidden,butcanberevealedinasecond‐theideabeeingthatthewomancanshiftidentityaccordigtohermoodorchangeofsituation.

Page 9: Aarhus School of Architecture / Design School Kolding ... · Digital inkjet printing on fabric is the latest invention in the textile industry and a major technological shift, because

8

BirgitteLevinHansenIdentityPlay,websiteinco‐operationwithgraphicdesignerKarenKyed2004Sincetheprojecthasnotbeenconvertedintoreality,onecannotsayiftheuserwouldfindthewebsitestimulating,bewillingtoparticipateinthedesignprocessorbuytheblouses.ButBirgitteLevinHansen’sconceptdemonstratehowinkjettechnology,printondemand,theInternetanddialogwiththeuserscanbecombined.Digitalinkjetprinting­aparadigmeshiftAsitappearsinkjetgivesnewpossibilitiestobothindustryanddesigners.Itisagreatleapforwardthatuniquespecimensaswellasreplicacanbeproducedequally,andthatengineeredmotifsandpatterns‐withoutlimitationsinrepeatsizeornumberofcolours‐canbeprintedwithnoextracost.Thusinkjettechnologynegatesthestandardsandpremisesofindustrializationasrelatedtobothproductionandornament.Digitalprintingrepresentsamajortechnologicalparadigmeshift,anditshouldbeexploredfromwithinitsownspecificpossibilities.Onepersonwhohasclearlyrealizedthis,istheNorwegianartistandfashiondesignerPiaMyrvold.Butbeforelookingathercybercouture‐allowmetoreturntoWilliamMorrisandhisreactiontotheshiftfromhandtomachineprinting.ThereasonforthisexcursionarethesimilaritiesinhisandMyrvold’sobjectionstoconsumption,socialconcernsandpollution.

Page 10: Aarhus School of Architecture / Design School Kolding ... · Digital inkjet printing on fabric is the latest invention in the textile industry and a major technological shift, because

9

PiaMyrvoldincollaborationwithPhilWoodandWinkaDubbeldamMorriswasnotagainstmachinesassuch,buthewascriticaltotheirinfluenceonpeople,theenvironmentandsocietyasawhole.Buthebelieved,thateverymanshouldfindjoyinhiswork,andallthingsmadebeautifullyinagoodlonglastingquality.WilliamMorrisknew,hewasfightingforutopianideals,butinsistedonsettingupanalternativetomassproduction,pollutionandover‐exploitationofresources.ToMorrisornamentwasmuchmorethanfashion,tohimitrepresentedpleasureinlife,personalmemoriesandthelinktohistory.Inhistimetheonlywaytoreachhisidealsandobtainartisticfreedomwasmanufacturingbyhand.OnecanonlyguessifMorriswouldhaveembrasseddigitaltechnologyandperhapsreachedhisgoals.InPiaMyrvold’swritingstherearemanyparalelstoWilliamMorrisandshesurdenlygraspsthefullpotentialofdigitalprinting,customizationandtheenvironmentaladvantagesofthetechnology.ButunlikeMorris‐Myrvolddoesnotseemtogiveanythoughtstotheroleofornament‐soafterpresentingMyrvold’scybercoutureconcept‐Iwillclosethepaperwithafewthoughtsonthisissue.Attheinteractivewebsitecybercoutureonecancreateacustomizeddigitalprinteddress.Thecustomercanplacedifferentmotifsinpremarkedareasanddecideavariationofdresslengthandneckline.Therearecurrentlyfourthemesofdecoration,twobasedonnaturalisticphotographsbyMyrvold.AthirdisamixtureofabstractpatternsdesignedbyKarimRachid,andthefourthislinkedtoaspecialdesignedcomputerprogramdeveloppedincollaborationwithPhil

Page 11: Aarhus School of Architecture / Design School Kolding ... · Digital inkjet printing on fabric is the latest invention in the textile industry and a major technological shift, because

10

WoodandusingimagesbyWinkaDubbeldam.Hereanimatedformscanbefrozenatanygiventimeandsinceprintedonadress.PiaMyrvoldtellsthestoryofhowcybercouturewasconcievedintheexhibitoncataloguefromClothesasPublishing(Myrvold2000).Agroupofwomenasked,ifshewouldliketoproducehergarmentsinKirkenes‐asmallvillageinNorway‐inordertocreatenewjobs.Myrvoldacceptedtomakeaproposal,andcameupwithanideaforahightechnologyworkshop,whichshouldmanufacturegarmentsorderedfromawebsite.Thegarments‐allbeeingoneofakind‐couldbeshippedtocustomersallovertheworld.TheworkshopwastosignacontractoncontinousinformationandideasdevelopedinMyrvold’s’designlaboratory’inParis.Shethinks,thatworkshopslikethiscouldbeapivotalpointforseveralcultureandeducationcentreswhere:”...theproductswouldcreatenowaste,andnoecologicalthreat,andwherepeoplesnaturalabilitiescanbecombinedwithanewpurposeofmediaandtechnology.”Myrvoldcriticizesfashioneditorsandjournalistswhom,shesays,gladlyembracegarmentsproducedin’slavefactories’inAsiaifthegoodshavetherightprice,andsheasks:”howcanwedreamofculturalawarenesswheneventhemostprivilegedpeopleshowremarkableindifferencetochangeorimprovement?”Shealsonotice,thateverydaynewopportunitiesarrivewiththetechnologicaldevelopment:"Isthisrealitynotsupposedtobeusedtobetterwhoweare,andarewenotallresponsibletochangethingsforthebetter?"ThecybercoutureprojectwasneverrealizedinKirkenes,becausetheproposalwasdefeatedbythelocalcouncilofmen,whopreferedtobuildsheepfarmsinstead.AsaresultPiaMyrvoldmadecybercouturepartofherwebsite,andpresenteditattheexhibitionClothesasPublishinginBergen2000.Myrvold’swritingsrecallWilliamMorris’concernsfortheworkerandtheenvironment.AnelaborationonthesesubjectsaretobefoundinthewritingsofVictorMargolin–acontemporarydesigntheorist.Inhisessay"TheExperienceofProducts",hepointsattheimportanceoftherelationbetweenthings,manufacturinganduserexperience.Hearguethatusersatisfactionmustbepartofadiscussionaboutsustainabilityandthelifetimeofproducts.VictorMargolinurgethedesignertoidentifywiththeusersexperiences,theirwantsandneedsinordertocreatesustainableproducts(Margolin2002).Butthismightbecontradictorytothedesignerswishforartisticfreedomandtonewaestheticexperimentsindigitalprinting,whichnecessarilyleadstomoreorlessavant‐gardeexpressions.Experimentsofthiskindareessentialtotherenewaloftheprofessionandtouncoverthepossibilitiesofthetechnologywithoutcommercialrestraints.Butthedevelopmentofanavant‐garde‘digitalaesthetic’mightbeaparadoxindevelopingmoresustainableproductsforamassmarket,wherethe

Page 12: Aarhus School of Architecture / Design School Kolding ... · Digital inkjet printing on fabric is the latest invention in the textile industry and a major technological shift, because

11

normsofconventionchanceslowly.Neithernewaestheticsnorutopianideascansolvetheenvironmentalproblemswearefacing‐hencethereisaneedfordialogbetweendesigner,producerandenduser.ThispaperhavearguedthatthepositiveenvironmentaladvantagesofinkjetcombinedwiththeInternetandotherdigitalmediacanbepartofdevelopingacleanerandmoresustainableproductionofprintedtextiles.Butinordertomakeradicalchangesofconsumerpatterns,weneedmoreknowledgeoftheusersreceptionofornamentandtheirrelationtothingsineverydaylife.Changingconsumerpatternsisahugeissueandcannotbecarriedoutbydesignersorcompaniesalone‐muchwilldependonpoliticsandusasconsumers.Timewillshowifwechoosetoutilizedigitalinkjetprintingasameanstoaccelerateordecelerateconsumption,oriffuturetechnologycansolvetheenvironmentalproblemsinways,wecannotyetimagine.LitteratureBMT:"ProductionSpeedDigitalFabricPrinting,BMT'sBreakthroughTechnology"(29.11.03)http://imi.maine.com/pdf/bmt1.pdfBunceGillian:”CADandtheroleofprintedtextiledesign”CADE99www.tees.ac.uk/cade99/out1.htmlByrneChris:"InkjetPrintingintheTextileIndustry:DrawinguptheBattlelines"2001(d.16.3.05)http://www.digitaltextile.net/CahillVince:"IntroductiontoDigitalPrintingTechnology"1998SGIAJournal(d.1.12.03)http://www.techexchange.com/thelibrary/tchnlgy.pdfDawsonTL:"Jetprinting",Rev.Prog.ColorationVolume221992FortyAdrian:ObjectsofDesire,DesignandSocietysince1750.Thames&Hudson1986InternationalManagementInstitute[IMIEurope]:”EuropeDigitalTextilePrinting–FinallyTakingOff?”2005(d.4.2.07)http://www.imieurope.com/MacCarthyFiona:WilliamMorris,ALifeofOurTimes.FaberandFaber1994MartinC.Jürgens:"PreservationofInkJetHardcopies,1999".(d.28.11.03)http://www.knaw.nl/ecpa/PUBL/InkJ‐300.pdfManteroCarlo:"DigitalPrintingIntegration"(d.13.12.05)http://kridt.dk/conference/Speakers/carlos.pdfMargolinVictor:ThePoliticsofTheArtificial­EssaysonDesignandDesignStudies.TheUniversityofChicagoPress2002MheidleMichael:"IntegratedDigitalSoloutionsforTextilePrinting"InternationalDyer,June2004MorrisWilliam:'ArtandSocialism'(27.12.04)http://www.marxists.org/archive/morris/works/1884/as/as.htmMorrisWilliam:’TheLesserArtsofLife’(27.12.04)http://www.marxists.org/archive/morris/works/tmp/life1.htmMyrvoldPia:Clothesaspublishing,VesterlandskeKunstindustrimuseeum,Bergen2000PillerFrank:(d.8.1.06)http://www.mass‐customization.de/glossary.htm#persPOETAG:(11.1.06)http://www.x‐solutions.poet.com/eu/newsevents/glossar/#SupplyChainManagementSCMRiisbergVibeke:Designogproduktionaftryktetextiler–fraanalogetildigitaleprocesser.Ph.dthesis,ArkitektskoleniÅrhus/DesignskolenKolding,januar2006RossTeri:"BMTProvesZeroInventoryProduction(ZIP)Paradigm"November2001(d.10.6.02)http://www.techexchange.com/thelibrary/ZIP/Zero_Inventory_Production.html.SchenekAnton:“Developmentleapforwardtothehighperformancetextiledigitalprintingsystem”.ITBInternationalTextileBulletin1/2003SenshokuKeizaiShimbunCo.,Ltd.:"Pointstoconcider,Specialfeature:Inkjetprinting"(d.25.7.05)http://textileinfo.com/en/manage/ronten/inkjet/page01.htmlStoreyJoyce:TextilePrinting,Thames&Hudson1974SuriRajan:(d.8.1.06)http://www.engr.wisc.edu/centers/cqrm/whatisqrm.htm